?■■•.,'''■'%.■■' 






♦ o 







. .^^^ 



r\^ "^ 














» • K « .0 '^ ♦ • J 1 • av O. ♦ « ' .^0 

















M O 










4> . 9 



■wr^ 



Harper^s Stereotype Edition. 



THE 



COOK'S ORACLE; 

AND 

HOUSEKEEPER'S MANUAL. 

CONTAINING 

IXtniJ^in for i^TooUerg, 

AND 

DIRECT jNS FOR CARVING. 

ALSO, 

THE ART OF COMPOSING THE MOST SIMPLE AND MOST HlGHLr FINISHED 

BROTHS, GRAVIES, SOUPS, SAUCES, STORE SAUCES, AND FLAVOURINS 

ESSENCES ; PASTRY, PRESERVES, PUDDINGS, PICKLES, &C. 

WITH 

A COIirPLETE SYSTEM OF COOKERY 
FOR CATHOLIC FA3IILIES. 

THE QUANTITY OF EACH ARTICLE IS ACCURATELY STATED BY WKISHT AND 

MEASURE ; BEING THE RESULT OF ACTUAL EXPERIMENTS 

INSTITUTED IN THE KITCHEN OF 

WILLIAM KITCHINER, M.D. 



ADAPTED TO THE AMERICAN PUBLIC 
BY A MEDICAL GENTLEMAN. 



FROK THE LAST LONDON SDITIOM. 



PRIJ^TED BYJ.^J. HARPER, 82 CLIFFS T 

5XgRi"'o ».«-.""" ;-PHILADELPHIA, CAREY, LEA, AND CARKY AND 
JOHN GRIoQ ,— BOSTON, RICHARDSON AND LORD, AND BILLIARD GRAV 
AND CO. ;-BALTIMORK, W. AND J. NEAL. BILLIARD, GRAY, 



183U 



1831 



JUST PUBLISHED. 

DOMESTIC DUTIES; or Instructions to Young Married 
Ladies, on the management of their households, and the 
regulation of their conduct in the various relations and du- 
ties of Married Life. By Mrs. Wm. Parkes. 12mo. 

" This volume is one of those practical works, which are of real value and utility. It is a perfect vade 
tnecum for the young married lady, who may resort to it on all questions of household economy and eti 
quette. There is nothing omitted with which it behooves a young lady to be acquainted." — New Monthly 
ilagazine. 



SOUTHERN DISTRICT OF NEW-YORK, »#. 
-rmP TT RFMTMHERED That on the 20th day of November, A. D. IS29, in tie fifty-fourth year of 
B Ve^in™d^e of t?e ^ed l4.es of AmLica, J & J. HARPER, of the ^id d.str^t have depo- 
Mted in this office the tide of a book, the right whereof they claim as Proprietors, in the words loi 
-lowing, to wit : 

" The Cook's Oracle, and Housekeeper's Manual. .Containing Receipts for Cookejr, and D^ 
Carving; also the Art of Composing the most s.mple and most h^gWy finished Broths GM\ie3,bou^s^ 
Sauces,°Store Sauces, and Flavouring Essences; Pastr>', Preserves, P^^dings P.ckl^, &c^ Wi,h a Com 
plete System of Cooken- for Catholic Families. The Quantity of each Article is accurately statea^y 
Weight and Measure; being the Result of Actual Experiments ins ituted n the Kitchen of WiU»in 
Kitchiner, M.D. Adapted to the American Public by a Medical GenUeman. 

In conformity to the Act of Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act ^^ *?>«. «°7^;/JCl^' 
Learnin" bv securin-' the copies of maps, charts, and books, to the authors and proprietors ot such copies, 
Eg thelime therein mentioned." %d also' .to a« Act, entitled '' A" Act suppler^en^ry^o an Ac . 
entitlll an Act for the encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of maps, charts, and booKs, 
Tthe authoi^ and proprietors If such copies, during the times herem mentioned an^ th« 

benefits thereof to the arts of designing, engraving, and etching '»'^t°"^^j,^"^^^R^(P^"V^-BETTS, 

Clerk of the Southern District of Nexc-rorK 

Bequest 
Albert Adsit Olemons 
Aug. 24, 1938 
..Tot available for exchange) 



ADVERTISEMEXT. 



The publishers have now the pleasure of presenting 
to the American public, Dr. Kitchiner's justly cele- 
brated work, entitled " The Cook's Oracle, and House- 
keeper's Manual," with numerous and valuable im- 
provements, by a medical gentleman of this city. 

The work contains a store of valuable information, 
which, it is confidently believed, will not only prove 
highly advantageous to young and inexperienced house- 
keepers, but also to more experienced matrons — to all, 
indeed, who are desirous of enjoying, in the highest 
degree, the good things which Natm'e has so abun- 
dantly bestowed upon us. 

The " Cook's Oracle" has been adjudged, by con- 
noisseurs in this country and in Great Britain, to con- 
tain the best possible instructions on the subject of 
serving up, beautifully and economically, the produc- 
tions of the water, land, and air, in such a manner as 
to render them most pleasant to the eye, and agreeable 
to the palate. 

Numerous notices, in commendation of the work» 
might be selected from respectable European journals ; 
but the mere fact, that within twelve years, seventy 
thousand copies of it have been purchased by the Eng- 
lish public, is sufficient evidence of its reception and 
merits. 

New- York, December, 1829. 



PREFACE 

TO 

THE SEVENTH EDITION. 



The whole of this Work has, a seventh time, been care- 
fully revised ; but this last time I have found little to add, 
and little to alter. 

I have bestowed as much attention on each of the 500 
receipts as if the whole merit of the book was to be esti- 
mated entirely by the accuracy of my detail of one par- 
ticular process. 

The increasing demand for " The Coolers Oracle,''' amount- 
ing in 1824 to the extraordinary number of upwards of 
45,000, has been stimulus enough to excite any man to 
submit to the most unremitting study ; and the Editor has 
felt it as an imperative duty to exert himself to the utmost 
to render " The Coo¥s OracW a faithful narrative of all 
that is known of the various subjects it professes to treat. 



PREFACE. 



Among the multitudes of causes which concur to impair 
health and produce disease,' the most general is the 
improper quality of our food : this most frequently arises 
from the injudicious manner in which it is prepared : yet 
strange, "passing strange," this is the only one for which 
a remedy has not been sought ; few persons bestow half so 
much attention on the preservation of their own health, as 
they daily devote to that of their dogs and horses. 

The observations of the Guardians of Health respecting 
regimen, &c. have formed no more than a catalogue of 
those articles of food, which they have considered most 
proper for particular constitutions. 

Some medical writers have, " in good set terms," warned 
us against the pernicious effects of improper diet ; but not 
one has been so kind as to take the trouble to direct us how 
to prepare food properly ; excepting only the contributions 
of Count Rumford, who 'says, in pages 16 and 70 of his 
tenth Essay, "however low and vulgar this subject has 
hitherto generally been thought to be — in what Art or 
Science could improvements he made that would more pow- 
erfully contribute to increase the comforts and enjoyments 
of mankind ? Would to God ! that I could fix the public 
attention to this subject P"* 

The Editor has endeavoured to write the following 

A2 



Vl PREFACE. 

receipts so plainly, that they may be as easily understood 
in the kitchen as he trusts they will be relished in the 
dining-room ; and has been more ambitious to present to 
the Public a Work which will contribute to the daily com- 
fort of all, than to seem elaborately scientific. 

The practical part of the philosophy of the kitchen is cer- 
tainly not the most agreeable ; gastrology has to contend 
with its full share of those great impediments to all great 
improvements in scientific pursuits ; the prejudices of the 
ignorant, and the misrepresentations of the envious. 

The sagacity to comprehend and estimate the import- 
ance of any uncontemplated improvement, is confined to 
the very few on whom nature has bestowed a sufficient 
degree of perfection of the sense which is to measure it ; — 
the candour to make a fair report of it, is still more 
uncommon ; and the kindness to encourage it cannot often 
be expected from those whose most vital interest it is to 
prevent the developement of that by which their own 
importance, perhaps their only means of existence, may be 
for ever eclipsed : so, as Pope says, how many are 

" Condemn'd in business or in arts to drudge, 
Without a rival, or without a judge : 
All fear, none aid you, and few understand." 

Improvements in Agriculture and the Breed of Cattle 
have been encouraged by premiums. Those who have 
obtained them, have been hailed as benefactors to society ! 
but the Art of making use of these means of ameliorating 
Life and supporting a healthful Existence — Cookery — has 
been neglected ! ! 

While the cultivators of the raw materials are distin- 
guished and rewarded, the attempt to improve the pro* 



PREFACE. VU 

cesses, without which neither vegetable nor animal sub- 
stances are fit for the food of man (astonishing to say), has 
been ridiculed, as unworthy the attention of a rational 
being ! ! 

The most useful* art — which the Editor has chosen to 
endeavour to illustrate, because nobody else has, and be- 
cause he knew not how he could employ some leisure hours 
more beneficially for mankind, than to teach them to com- 
bine the "w^i/e" with the " dwZce," and to increase their 
pleasures, without impairing their health, or impoverishing 
their fortune, has been for many years his favourite 
employment ; and " The Art of Invigorating and Pro- 
longing Life by Food, &:-c. &c." and this Work, have 
insensibly become repositories for whatever observations he 
has made which he thought would make us " Live happy, 

AND LrVE LONG ! ! 1" 

The Editor has considered the Art of Cookery, "not 
merely as a mechanical operation, fit only for working 
cooks, but as the Analeptic part of the Art of Physic, 

" How best the fickle fabric to support 
Of mortal man ; in healthful body how 
A healthful mind the longest to maintain," 

(ArmstroHq,) 

is an occupation neither unbecoming nor unworthy philo- 
sophers of the highest class : such only can comprehend its 
importance ; which amounts to no less, than not only the 
enjoyment of the present moment, but the more precious 
advantage of improving and preserving health, and pro- 
longing life, which depend on duly replenishing the daily 

• "The only test of the utility of knowledge, is its promoting the happiness of 
mankind." — Dr. Stark on Diet, p. 90. 



Vlll PREFACE. 

waste of the human frame witlr materials pregnant with 
nutriment and easy of digestion. 

If medicine be ranked among those arts which dignify 
their professors, cookery may lay claim to an equal, if not 
a superior, distinction; to prevent diseases is surely a more 
advantageous art to mankind than to cure them. " Phy- 
sicians should be good cooks, at least in theory." — Dr. 
Mandeville on Hypochondriasis, p. 316. 

The learned Dr. Arbuthnot observes, in page 3 of the 
preface to his Essay on Aliment, that " the choice and 
measure of the materials of which our body is composed, 
what we take daily by pounds, is at least of as much 
importance as what we take seldom, and only by gravis 
and spoonfuls." 

Those in whom the organ of taste is obtuse, or who have 
been brought up in the happy habit of being content with 
humble fare, whose health is so firm, that it needs no arti- 
ficial adjustment ; who, with the appetite of a cormorant, 
have the digestion of an ostrich, and eagerly devour what- 
ever is set before them without asking any questions about 
what it is, or how it has been prepared — may perhaps 
imagine that the Editor has sometimes been rather over- 
mucti refining the business of the kitchen. 

*' Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." 

But as few are so fortunate as to be trained up to under- 
stand how well it is worth their while to cultivate such 
habits of Spartan forbearance, we cannot perform our duty 
in registering wholesome precepts, in a higher degree, than 
by disarming luxury of its sting, and making the refine- 
ments of Modern Cookery minister not merely to sensual 



PREFACE. IX 

gratification, but at the same time support the substantial 
excitement of " mens sana in corpore sano." 

Delicate and nervous invalids, who have unfortunately 
a sensitive palate, and have been accustomed to a luxurious 
variety of savoury sauces, and highly seasoned viands ; 
those vrho, from the infirmity of age, are become incapable 
of correcting habits created by absurd indulgence in youth, 
are entitled to some consideration ; and, for their sake, the 
Elements of Opsology are explained in the most intelligent 
manner ; and I have assisted the memory of young cooks, 
by annexing to each dish the various sauces which usually 
accompany it, referring to their numbers in the work. 

Some idle idiots have remarked to the Author, that 
" there were really so many references from one receipt to 
another, that it is exceedingly troublesome indeed ; they 
are directed sometimes to turn to half a dozen numbers :" 
this is quite true. If the Author had not adopted this plan 
of reference, his book, to be equally explicit, must have 
been ten times as big ; his object has been to give as much 
information as possible in as few pages, and for as fe\v 
pence, as possible. 

By reducing culinary operations to something like a 
certainty, invalids will no longer be entirely indebted to 
chance, whether they shall recover and live long, and com- 
fortably, or speedily die of starvation in the midst of plenty. 

These rules and orders for the regulation of the business 
of the kitchen have been extremely beneficial to the Edi- 
tor's ow^n health and comfort. He hop^s they w^ill be 
equally so to others : they will help those who enjoy health 
to preserve it ; teach those who have delicate and irritable 
stomachs how to keep them in good temper ; and, with a 



X PREFACE. 

little discretion, enable them to indulge occasionally, not 
only with impunity, but with advantage, in all those alimen- 
tary pleasures which a rational epicure can desire. 

There is no question more frequently asked, or which a 
medical man finds more difficulty in answering, to the 
satisfaction of himself and his patient, than — What do you 
wish me to eat ? 

The most judicious choice of aliment will avail nothing, 
unless the culinary preparation of it be equally judicious. 
How often is the skill of a pains-taking physician coun- 
teracted by want of corresponding attention to the prepa- 
ration of food ; and the poor patient, instead of deriving 
nourishment, is distressed by indigestion ! 

Paeme]stier, in his Code Pharmaceuiique, has given a 
chapter on the preparation of food : some of the following 
receipts arc offered as an humble attempt to form a sort 
of Appendix to the Pharmacopoeia, and like pharmaceutic 
prescriptions, they are precisely adjusted by weight and 
m£asure. The author of a cookery book, first published 
in 1824, has claimed this act of industry of mine as his 
own original invention ; the only notice I shall take of his 
pretensions is to say, that the first edition of " The Coolers 
Oracle'^ appeared in 1817. 

By ordering such receipts of the CooTc's Oracle as 
appear adapted to the case, the recovery of the patient and 
the credit of the physician, as far as relates to the adminis- 
tration of aliment, need no longer depend on the discretion 
of the cook. ¥ov instance : Mutton Broth, No. 490, or 
No. 564 ; Toast and Water, No. 463 ; Water Gruel, No. 
572 ; Beef Tea, No. 563 ; and Portable Soup, No. 252. 
This concentrated Essence of Meat will be found a great 



PKEFACE XI 

acquisition to the comfort of the army, the navy, the tra- 
veller, and the invalid. By dissolving half an ounce of it 
in half a pint of hot water, you have in a few minutes half 
a pint of good Broth for three halfpence. The utility of 
such accurate and precise directions for preparing food, is 
to travellers incalculable ; for, by translating the receipt, 
any person may prepare what is desired as perfectly as a 
good English cook. 

He has also circumstantially detailed the easiest, least 
expensive, and most salubrious methods of preparing those 
highly finished soups, sauces, ragouts, and jji^^wan^e relishes, 
which the most ingenious " officers of the mouth" have 
invented for the amusement of thorough-bred ''^grands 
gourmands. ^^ 

It has been his aim to render food acceptable to the 
palate, without being expensive to the purse, or offensive 
to the stomach ; nourishing without being inflammatory, 
and savoury without being surfeiting ; constantly endea- 
vouring to hold the balance equal, between the agreeable 
and the wholesome, the epicure and the economist. 

He has not presumed to recommend one receipt that has 
not been previously and repeatedly proved in his ovm 
kitchen, which has not been approved by the most accom- 
plished cooks ; and has. moreover, been eaten with unani- 
mous applause by a Committee of Taste, composed of some 
of the most illustrfbus gastropholists of this luxurious 
metropolis. 

The Editor has been materially assisted by Mr. Henry 
Osborne, the excellent cook to the late Sir Joseph Banks ; 
that worthy President of the Royal Society was so sensible 
of the importance of the subject the Editor was investi- 



Xll PREFACE. 

gating, that he sent his cook to assist him in his arduous 
task ; and many of the receipts in this edition are much 
improved by his suggestions and corrections. See No. 660. 

This is the only English Cookery Book which has been 
written from the real experiments of a housekeeper for the 
benefit of housekeepers ; which the reader will soon per- 
ceive by the minute attention that has been employed to 
elucidate and improve the Art of Plain Cookery; detailing 
many particulars and precautions, which may at first appear 
frivolous, but which experience will prove to be essential . 
to teach a common cook how to provide, and to prepare, 
common food so frugally, and so perfectly, that the plain 
every-day family fare of the most economical housekeeper, 
may, with scarcely additional expense, or any additional 
trouble, be a satisfactory entertainment for an epicure or 
an invalid. 

By an attentive consideration of " the Rudiments of 
Cookery,'''* and the respective receipts, the most ignorant 
novice in the business of the kitchen, may work with the 
utmost facility and certainly of success, and soon become 
a sood cook. 

Will all the other books of cookery that ever were 
printed do this ? To give his readers an iSea of the 
immense labour attendant upon ihi? Work, it may be only 
necessary for the Author to state, that he has patiently 
pioneered through more than two hundred cookery books 
before he set about recording these results of his own 
experiments ! The table of the most economical family 
may, by the help of this book, be entertained with as much 
elegance as that of a sovereign prince. 

London, 1829. 



CONTENTS. 



Prefacb V 

■ to Seventh Edition iy 

Introduction . . . i i 15 

Culinary Curiosities « 32 

Invitations to Dinner 36 

Carving 43 

Friendly Advice to Cooks 46 

Table of Weights, &;c 65 



RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 

Chapter 1. Boiling .......66 

Baking 72 

2. Roasting 74 

3. Flying < ,80 

4. Broiling 82 

5. Vegetables 83 

6. Fish . 86 

Fish Sauces 88 

7. Broths and Soups , 89 

8. Gravies and Sauces ; 100 

9. xMade Dishes 106 

Receipts 108 

Marketing Tables 355 



APPENDIX. 

Pastry, Confectionary, Preserves, fee 360 

Bread, &c. , 390 

Observations on Puddings and Pies ..;..., . . 392 

Pickles 398 

Various useful Family Receipts . . * 405 

Observations on Carving 409 

Index i ■ 421 



IJVTRODUCTIOX. 



The following receipts are not a mere marrowless collec- 
tion of shreds and patches, and cuttings and pastings, but a 
bona fide register of practical facts, — accumulated by a per- 
severance not to be subdued or evaporated by the igniferous 
terrors of a roasting fire in the dog-days, — in defiance of the 
odoriferous and calefacient repellents of roasting, boiling, fry- 
ing, and broiling; — moreover, the author has submitted to 
a labour no preceding cookery-book-maker, perhaps, ever 
attempted to encounter, — having eaten each receipt before 
lie set it down in his book. 

They have all been heartily welcomed by a sufficiently 
\tell-educated palate, and a rather fastidious stomach : — per- 
haps this certificate of the reception of the respective prepa- 
rations, will partly apologize for the book containing a smaller 
number of them than preceding writers on this gratifying 
subject have transcribed — for the amusement of " every man's 
master," the stomach.* 

Numerous as are the receipts in former books, they vary 
little from each other, except in the name given to them ; the 
processes of cookery are very few : I have endeavoured to 
describe each, in so plain and circumstantial a manner, as I 
hope will be easily understood, even by the amateur, who is 
unacquainted with the practical part of culinary concerns. 

Old housekeepers may think I have been tediously 
minute on many points which may appear trifling : my pre- 
decessors seem to have considered the rudiments of cookery 
quite unworthy of attention. These little delicate distinc- 
tions constitute all the difference between a common and an 
elegant table, and are not trifles to the young housekeepers 
who must learn them either from the communication of others 
or blunder on till their own slowly accumulating and dear- 
bought experience teaches them. 

*"The STOMACH is the grand organ of the human system, upon the state of 
which all the powers and feelings of the individual depend." — See Hunter's Cw 
Una, p. 13. 

" The faculty the stomach has of communicating the impressions made by the 
various substances that are put into it, is such, that it seems more like a nervoua 
expansion of the brain, than a mere receptacle for food."— Dr. Waterhouse' 
Jjecture on Health.^ p. 4. 



16 INTRODUCTION. 

A wish to save time, trouble, and money to inexperienced 
housekeepers and cooks, and to bring the enjoyments and 
indulgences of the opulent within reach of the middle ranks 
of society, were my motives for publishing this book. I 
could accomplisli it only by supposing the reader (when he 
first opens it) to be as ignorant of cookery as I was, when 
I first thought of writing on the subject. 

I have done my best to contribute to the comfort of my 
fellow-creatures: by a careful attention to the directions 
herein given, the most ignorant may easily learn to prepare 
food, not only in an agreeable and wholesome, but in an ele- 
gant and economical manner. 

This task seems to have been left for me ; and I have endea- 
voured to collect and communicate, in the clearest and most 
intelligible manner, the whole of the heretofore abstruse 
mysteries of the culinary art, which are herein, I hope, so 
plainly developed, that the most inexperienced student in the 
occult art of cookery, may work from my receipts with the 
utmost facility. 

I was perfectly aware of the extreme difficulty of teaching 
those who are entirely unacquainted with the subject, and of 
explaining my ideas effectually, by mere receipts, to those 
who never shook hands with a stewpan. 

In my anxiety to be readily understood, I have been under 
the necessity of occasionally repeating the same directions 
in different parts of the book ; but 1 would rather be censured 
for repetition than for obscurity, and hope not to be accused 
of affectation, while my intention is perspicuity. 

Our neighbours of France are so justly famous for their 
skill in the affairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, "As 
many Frenchmen as many cooks :" surrounded as they are 
by a profusion of the most delicious wines, and seducing 
liqueurs offering every temptation to render drunkenness de- 
lightful, yet a tippling Frenchman is a ^^rara avis^ 

They know how so easily to keep life in sufficient repair 
by good eating, that they require little or no screwmg up 
with liquid stimuli. This accounts for that " toujours gai,^'' 
and happy equilibrium of the animal spirits which they enjoy 
with more regularity than any people : their elastic stomachs, 
unimpaired by spirituous liquors, digest vigorously the food 
they sagaciously prepare and render easily assimilable, by 
cooking it sufficiently, — wisely contriving to get half the 
work of the stomach done by fire and water, till 

"The tender morspis on tlie palate melt, 
And all the force of cookery is felt. 



ITiTRODUCTION. 17 

See Nos. 5 and 238, &c. 

The cardinal virtues of cookery, " cleanliness, frugality, 
NOURISHMENT, AND PALATEABLENESS," prcsidc ovcr cach pre- 
paration ; for I have not presumed to insert a single compo- 
sition, without previously obtaining' the " imprimatur^'' of an 
enlightened and indefatigable " committee of taste," (com- 
posed of thorough-bred grands gourmands of the fxrst mag- 
nitude,) Avhose cordial co-operation I cannot too highly 
praise ; and here do I most gratefully record the unremitting 
zeal they manifested during their arduous progress of proving 
the respective recipes : they were so truly philosophically 
and disinterestedly regardless of the wear and tear of teeth 
and stomach, that their labour appeared a pleasure to them. 
Their laudable perseverance has enabled me to give the in- 
experienced amateur an unerring guide how to excite as 
much pleasure as possible on the palate, and occasion as 
little trouble as possible to the principal viscera, and has 
hardly been exceeded by those determined spirits Avho lately 
in the Polar expedition braved the other extreme of tempe- 
rature, &c. in spite of whales, bears, icebergs, and starvation. 

Eveiy attention has been paid in directing the proportions 
of the following compositions ; not merely to make them in- 
viting to the appetite, but agreeable and useful to the stomach 
— nourishing without being inflammatory, and savoury with- 
out being surfeiting. 

I have written for those who make nourishment the chief 
end of eating,* and do not desire to provoke appetite beyond 

* I wish most heartily that the restorative process was performed by us poor mor- 
tals in as easy and simple a manner as it is in " the cookincr animals in the moon,^' 
who "lose no time at their meals; but open their left side, and place the whole 
quantity at once in their stomachs, then shut it, till the same day in the next month, 
for they never indulge themselves with food more than twelve times in a year." — 
See Baron Mu-Ncuausen's Travels, p. 183. 

Pleasing the palate is the main end in most books of cookery, but it is mij aim to 
blend the toothsome with the wholesome ; but, after all, however the hale gourmand 
may at first differ from me in opinion, the latter is the chief concern ; since if he be 
even so entirely devoted to the pleasure of eating as to think of no other, still the 
care of his health becomes part of that ; if he is sick he cannot relish his food. 

"The term gourmand, or epicure, has been strangely perverted ; it has been con- 
ceived synonymous with a glutton, ' ni pour la di gentian,'' who will eat as long as 
he can sit, and drink longer than he can stand, nor leave his cup while he can lift 
it; or like the great eater of Kent whom Fuller places among his worthies, and 
tells us that he did eat with ease thirtij dozens of pigeons at one meal ; at another, 
fourscore rabbits and eighteen yards of black pudding, London measure ! — or a 
fastidious appetite, only to be excited by fantastic dainties, as the brains of peacocks 
or parrots, the tongues of thrushes or nightingales, or the teats of a lactiferous soio. 

" In the acceptation which T give to the term epicure, it means only the person 
who has good sense and good taste enough to wish to have his food cooked accord- 
ing to scientific principles ; that is to say, so prepared that the palate be not offended 
— that it be rendered easy of solution in the stomach, and ultimately contribute to 
health ; exciting him as an animal to the vigorous enjoyment of those recreations 
and duties, physical and i':tellectual, whii;h constitute the happiness and dignity of 

132 



18 INTRODUCTION. 

the powers and necessities of nature ; proceeding-, however, 
on the purest epicurean principles of indulging the palate Jis 
far as it can be done without injury or oflfence to the stomach, 
and forbidding* nothing but what is absolutely unfriendly to 
health. 



" That which is not good, is not delicious 

To a well-govern'd and wise appetite." — Milton 

This is by no means so difficult a task as some gloomy 
philosophers (uninitiated hv culinary science) have tried to 
make the world believe ; who seem to have delighted in per 
suading you, that every thing that is nice must be noxious 
and that every thing that is nasty is wholesome. 

" How charming is divine philosophy ! 
Not harsh, and crabbed, as dull fools suppose, 
But musical as is Apollo's lute, 
And a perpetual feast of nectar'd sweets, 
Where no crude surfeit reigns."— Milton. 

Worthy William Shakspeare declared he never found a 
philosopher who could endure the toothache patiently : — the 
Editor protests that he has not yet overtaken one who did 
not love a feast. 

Those cynical slaves who are so silly as to suppose it un 
becoming a wise man to indulge in the common comforts of 
life, shoiSd be answered in the words of the French philoso 
pher. "Hey — what, do you philosophers eat dainties]" 

his nature." For this illustration I am indebted to my scientific friend Apiciua 
CceUus, Jun., with whose erudite observations several pages of this work are 
enriched, to which I have affixed the signature A. C, Jun. 

* " Although AIR is more immediately necessary to life than food, the knowledge 
of the latter seems of more importance ; it admits certainly of great variety, and a 
choice is more frequently in our power. A very spare and simple diet-has conimonly 
been recommended as most conducive to health; but it would be more beneficial to 
mankind if we could show them that a pleasant and varied diet was equally con- 
sistent with health, as the very strict regimen of Arnard, or the miller of Essex 
These, and other abstemious people, who, having experienced the greatest extremi- 
ties of bad health, were driven to temperance as their last resource, may run out in 
praises of a simple diet ; but the probability is, that nothing but the dread of former 
sufferings could have given them the resolution to persevere in so strict a course of 
abstinence, which persons who are in iicalth and have no such apprehension could 
not be induced to undertake, or, if they did, would not long continue. 

" In all cases, great allowance must be made for the weakness of human nature : 
he desires and appetites of mankind must, to a certain degree, be gratified; and the 
man who wishes to be most useful will imitate the indulgent parent, who, while he 
endeavours to promote the true interests of his children, allows them the fUU enjoy- 
ment of all those innocent pleasures which they take delight in. If it could be 
pointed out to mankind that some articles used as food were hurtful, while othera 
were in their nature innocent, and that the latter were numerous, various, and 
pleasant, they might, perhaps, be induced to forego those which were hurtful, and 
vonfine themselves to those which were innocent." — -See Dr. Stark's Experiments 
971 Z>«c«, pp. 89and80. 



INTRODUCTION. 19 

said a gay Marquess. " Do you think," replied Descartes, 
" that God made good things only for fools ?" 

Every individual, who is not perfectly imbecile and void 
of understanding, is an epicure in his own way. The epicures 
in boiling of potatoes are iimumerable. The perfection of all 
enjoyment depends on the perfection of the faculties of the 
mind and body ; therefore, the temperate man is the greatest 
epicure, and the only true voluptuary. 

The pleasures of the table have been highly appre- 
ciated and carefully cultivated in all countries and in all 
ages ;* and in spite of all the stoics, every one will allow 
they are the first and the last we enjoy, and those we taste 
the oftenest, — above a thousand times in a year, every year 
of our lives ! 

The stomach is the mainspring of our system. If it be 
not sufficiently wound up to warm the heart and support the 
circulation, the whole business of life will, in proportion, 
oe ineffectively perfomied : we can neither think Vvith pre- 
cision, walk with vigour, sit down with comfort, nor sleep with 
tranquillity. 

There would be no difficulty in proving that it influences 
(much more than people in general imagine) all our actions : 
the destiny of nations has often depended upon the more 
or less laborious digestion of a prime minister.! See a very 
curious anecdote in the memoirs of Count Zinzendorff 
in Dodsley's Annual Register for 1762. 3d edition, p. 32. 

The philosopher Pythagoras seems to have been extremely 
nice in eating; among his absolute injunctions to his dis- 
ciples, he commands them to " abstain from beans." 

This ancient sage has been imitated by the learned who 
have discoursed on this subject since, who are liberal of 
their negative, and niggardly of their positive precepts — in 
the ratio, that it is easier to tell you not to do this, than to 
teach you how to do that. 

Our great English moralist Dr. S. Johnson, his biographer 
BosweU tells us, " was a man of very nice discernment in 
the science of cookery," and talked of good eating with un- 
common satisfaction. "Some people," said he, "have a 
foolish way of not minding, or pretending not to mind, w^hat 
they eat ; for my part, I mind my belly very studiously and 
very carefully, and I look upon it that he who does not mind 
his belly, will hardly mind any thing else." 

* See a curious account in Cours Gastronomiqi-e, p. 145, and in Anacharsis' 
Travels, Robinson, 1796, vol. ii. p. 58, and Obs. and note under No. 493. 

t See the 2d, 3d, and 4tli pages of Sir Wsi. Temple's Essay on the Cure of th9 
Oout by AIof,a, 



20 



INTRODUCTION. 



The Dr. might have said, cannot mind any thing else. Th 
energ-y of our brains is sadly dependent on the behaviour c 
our BOWELS.* Those who say, 'Tis no matter what we eat o 
what we dnnk, may as well say, 'Tis no matter whether w 
eat, or whether w^e drink. 

The following anecdotes I copy from Boswell's life o 
Johnson. 

Johnson.—'' I could write a better book of cookery tha 
has ever yet been written; it should be a book on philosophi 
cal prmciples. I Avould tell what is the best butcher's meat 
the proper seasons of different vegetables, and then, how t( 
roast, and boil, and to compound." 

Dilly.—'' Mrs. Glasse's cookery, w^hich is the best, wa; 
written by Dr. Hill." 

Johnson.— ''\Ne\\, Sir— this shows how much better th< 
subject of cookery! may be treated by a philosopher ;J bu 

* " He that would liave a clear head, must have a clean stomach."— Dr. Cheyn 
on Health, 8vo. 1724, ]). 3-1. ^^-^i^^ 

"It is sufficiently iiianiCcst how much uncomfortable feelinss of the bowels affec 
the nervous system, anil how immediately and completely the general disorder i 
relieved by an alvme evacuation."— p. 53. 

"We cannot reas^onably expect tranquillity of the nervous system, while there 
disorder of the digestive organs. As we can perceive no permanent source o 
strength but Irom the digestion of our food, it becomes important on this accoun 
Uiat we should attend to its cpiantity, quality, and the periods of taking it, v/ith 
^'**'^< ?/"^-"'''^ ''^ proper digestion."— Abernethy's Sur. Obs. 8vo. 1817, p. 65 
, T ' If science can really contribute to the liappiness of mankind, it must be in 
this department; the real comfort of the majorifv of men in this countrv is sough 
lor at their own fireside ; how desirable does it then become to give every induce 
ment to be at home, by directing all the means of philosophy to increase domesti( 
Jiappiness ! —Sylvester's Philosophy of Domestic Economy, 4to. J819, p. 17 

; Ihe best books of cookery have been written by physicians.- Sir Kenelmi 
Yy^'^^^—^^l^^^^oDORK Mayerne.— See the last quarter of page 304 of vol. x. o 
Hunt ^°'^^- ^o' 1675.— Professor Bradley— Dr. Hill— Dr. Le Coi.nte— Dr 

- " To utiderstand the theory of cookery, we must attend to the action of hea 
upon the various constituents of alimentary substances as applied directly an( 
indirectly through the medium of some fluid, in the former way as exemplified.' 
In the processes of roasting and boiling, the chief constituents of animal substances 
uiidergo the following changes— the j^Jr/we is corrugated, the albiimen coagulated 
the gelatine and osmazome rendered more soluble in water, tlie fat liquefied anc 
the water evaporated. ' 

" If the heat exceed a certain degree, the surface becomes first brown, and ther 
scorched. In consequence of these changes, the muscular fibre becomes opaque 
shorter, firmer, and drier ; the tendons less opaque, softer, and gluey ; the fat is eithei 
melted out, or rendered semi-transparent. Animal fluids become more transparent 
the albumen is coagulated and separated, and they dissolve gelatine and osmazome 

" Lastly, and what is the most important change, and the immediate object of al 
cookery, the meal loses the vapid nauseous smell and taste peculiar to its raw state 
and it becomes savoury and grateful. 

" Heat applied through the intervention of boiling oil, or melted fat, ag in frying 
produces nearly the same changes ; as the heat is suflicient to evaporate the water 
and to induce a degree of scorching. 

" But when water is the medium through which heat is applied— as in boiling, 
stewing, and baking, tlie eflfects are somewhat difl^erent, as the h«at never exceeds 
212°, which is iiot sufficient to commence the process af browning or decomposition, 
and the Boluble constituents are removed by being dissolved ia the water, forming 



INTRODUCTION. 21 

ou shall see what a book of cookery I shall make, and shall 
gree M^ith Mr. Dilly for the copyright." 
Miss Seward. — " That would be Hercules with the distaff 
ideed !" 
Johnson. — "No, madam; women can spin very well, but 
ley cannot make a good book of cookery." See vol. iii. p. 3 11 . 
Mr. B. adds, "I never knew a man who relished good 
ating more than he did : when at table, he was totally ab- 
Drbed in the business of the moment : nor would he, unless 
I veiy high company, say one word, or even pay the least 
ttention to what was said by others, until he had satisfied 
is appetite." 

The peculiarities of his constitution were as great as those 
I his character : luxmy and intemperance are relative 
;rms, depending on other circumstances than mere quantity 
id quality. Nature gave him an excellent palate, and a 
■aving appetite, and his intense application rendered large 
ipplies of nourishment absolutely necessary to recruit his 
thausted spirits. 

The fact is, this great man had found out that animal and 
itellectual vigour,* are much more entirely dependent upon 
ich other than is commonly understood; especially in those 
)nstitutions whose digestive and chylopoietic organs are 
ipricious and easily put out of tune, or absorb the '''• pabu- 
,m vitos^^ indolently and imperfectly : with such, it is only 
3w and then that the " sensorium commune^'' vibrates with 
le full tone of accurately considerative, or creative energy. 
His favourite dainties were, a leg of pork boiled till it 
•opped from the bone, a veal-pie, with plums and sugar, or 
iC outside cut of a salt buttock of beef. With regard to 
"ink, his liking was for the strongest, as it was not the 
avour, but the effect that he desired." Mr. Smale's Account 
'Dr. Johnson's Journey into Wales, 1816, p. 174. 
Thus does the health always, and very often the life of 
valids, and those who have weak and infirm stomachs, 
ipend upon the care and skill of the cook. Our forefathers 
ere so sensible of this, that in days of yore no man of 
)nsequence thought of making a day's journey without 
-king his " Magister Coq,uorum" with him. 

jpor broth; or, if the direct contact of the water be prevented, they are dissolved 
tli« juices of the meat, and separate in the form of giavy." 

Vide Supiilenieiit to Encyclop. Brit. FAin. vol. iv. p. 344, the article "food," to 
lich we refer our read-^r as the most scientific paper on the «ubjfct we have seen. 
* "Health, beauty, strensili, and spirits, and I miy;ht add ail the faculties of the 
nd, depend upon the organs of tlie body ; wlicii these are in tjood ord'T,tl)e thinking 
rt is most alert and active, the contrary when they are disturbed or diseased." — 
•. Cadoqan on JVursing Children^ 8vo. 1757, p. 5. 



22 INTRODUCTION. 

The rarity of this talent in a high degree is so well unde 
stood, that besides very considerable pecuniary compens 
tion, his majesty's first and second cooks* are now esquin 
by their office. We have every reason to suppose they we: 
persons of equal dignity heretofore. 

In Dr. Pegge's " Forme of Cury," 8vo. London, 1780, y 
read, that when Cardinal Otto, the Pope's legate, was 
Oxford, A. D. 1248, his brother officiated as "Magiste 
CociuiN^." 

This important post has always been held as a situation 
high trust and confidence; and the "Magnus Coquus," An 
lice, the Master Kitchener, has, time immemorial, been 
officer of considerable dignity in the palaces of princes. 

The cook in Plautus (pseudol) is called " Hominum se 
vatorem,'''' the preserver of mankind ; and by Mercier 
m6decin qui gu^rit radicalement deux maladies mortelles, 
faim et la soif.''^ 

The Norman conqueror William bestowed several po 
tions of land on these highly-favoured domestics, tl 
" CoQUORUM Propositus," and " Coquus Regius ;" a man( 
was bestowed on Robert Argyllon the " Grand Queux," 
be held by the following service. See that venerable recor 
the doomsday book. 

" Robert Argyllon holdeth one carucate of land in Addini 
ton in the county of Surrey, by the service of making or 
mess in an earthen pot in the kitchen of our Lord the Kin 
on the day of his coronation, called De la Groute,'''' i. e. a kii 
of plum-porridge, or water-gruel with plums in it. This dij 
is still served up at the royal table at coronations, by tl 
Lord of the said manor of Addington. 

At the coronation of King George IV., Court of Claim 
July 12, 1820 : 

" The petition of the Archbishop of Canterbury, whi( 
was presented by Sir G. Nayler, claiming to perform tl 
service of presenting a dish of De la Groute to the King 
the banquet, was considered by the Court, and decided to 
allowed." 

A good dinner is one of the greatest enjoyments of humj 
life ; and as the practice of cookery is attended with so mai 
discouraging difficulties,! so many disgusting and disagre 

* "We have some good families in England of the name of Cook or Coke. 
know not what they may think ; but they may depend upon it, they all origina 
sprang from real and professional cooks; and they need not be ashamed of th 
extraction, any more than the Parkers^ Butlers, iS-c." — Dr, Pegge's Forme of Cu 
p. 162. 

t It is said, there are seven chances against even the most simple, dish being p 
tented to the mouth in absolute perfection; for instance, a leo of mutton. 



INTRODUCTION. 23 

able circumstances, and even dangers, we ought to have some 
regard for those who encounter them to procure us pleasure, 
and to reward their attention by rendering their situation 
every way as comfortable and agreeable as we can. He 
who preaches integrity to those in the kitchen, (see " Advice 
to Cooks,'''') may be permitted to recommend liberality to those 
in the parlour; they are indeed the sources of each other. 
Depend upon it, " True self-love and social are the same ;'* 
" Do as you would be done by :" give those you are obliged 
to trust every inducement to be honest, and no temptation to 
play tricks. 

When you consider that a good servant eats* no more than 
a bad one, how much waste is occasioned by provisions 
being dressed in a slovenly and unskilful manner, and how 
mucifi a good cook (to whom the conduct of the kitchen is 
confided) can save you by careful management, no house- 
keeper will hardly deem it an unwise speculation (it is cer- 
tairdy an amiable experiment), to invite the honesty and in- 
dustry of domestics, by setting them an example of liberality 
— at least, show them, that " According to their pains will 
ne their gains." 

Avoid all approaches towards Jamiliarity ; which, to a pro- 
verb, is accompanied by contempt, and soon breaks the neck 
of obedience. 

A lady gave us the followmg account of the progress of a 
favourite. 

" The first year, she was an excellent servant ; the second, 
a kind mistress ; the third, an intolerable tyrant ; at whose 
dismissal, every creature about my house rejoiced heartily." 

However, servants are more likely to be praised into good 
conduct, than scolded out of bad. Always commend them 
when they do right. To cherish the desire of pleasing in them, 
you must show them that you are pleased : — 

1st. — Tbe mutton must be good. 2d. — Must have been kept a good time. 3d. — 
Must be roasted at a good tire. 4tii. — By a irood cook. 5ih. — Who must be mgood 
temper. 6th. — With all tliis felicitous couibinaricm you njust have good luck ; and, 
7th. — Oood appetite. — The meat, and the mouths which are to eat it, must be ready 
for action at the same moment. 

* To guard against " la gnurmavdise'^ of the second table, " provide each of your 
servants with a large pair of spectacle> of the highest magnifying power, and never 
permit them to sit down to any meal without wearing them ; they are as necessary, 
and as useful in a kitchen as pots and kettles: they will make a lark look as large 
as a FOWL, a goose as big as a swan, a leg of mutton as larae as a hind quarter of 
beef; a twopenny loaf as large as a qnariern ;" and as philosophers assure you that 
pain even is only imaginary, we may justly believe the same of hunger ; and if a 
servant \yho eats no more than one pound of food, imagines, by the aid of these 
glasses, that he has eaten three pfmnd*, his hunger will be as fully satisfied — and 
the addition to your optician's account, will soon be overpaid by the subtraction from 
your butcher's and baker's. 



24 INTRODUCTION. 

" Be to their faults a little blind, 
And to their virtues very kind." 

By such conduct, ordinary sei'vants may be converted into 
g-ood ones : few are so hardened, as not to feel gratified when 
they are kindly and liberally treated. 

It is a good maxim to select sen^ants not younger than 
THIRTY : — before that age, however comfortable you may 
endeavour to make them, their Avaut of experience, and the 
hope of something still better, prevents their being satisfied 
with their present state ; after, they have had the benefit of 
experience : if they are tolerably comfortable, they will 
endeavour to deserve the smiles of even a moderately kind 
master, ioT fear they may change for the worse. 

Life may indeed be very fairly divided into the seasons of 
HOPE and FEAR. In youth, -we hope every thing may be right : 
in AGE, we fear every thing will be wrong. 

Do not discharge a good servant for a slight offence : — 

" Bear and forbear, thus preached the stoic sa?es, 
And in two words, include tlie sense of pages." — Pope. 

Human nature is the same in all stations : if you can 
convince your servants that you have a generous and consi- 
derate regard for their health and comfort, why should you 
imagine that they will be insensible to the good they receive ? 

Impose no commands but what are reasonable, nor re- 
prove but with justice and temper : the best way to ensure 
which is, never to lecture them till at least one day after 
they have offended you. 

If they have any particular hardship to endure in your 
service, let them see that you are concerned for the neces- 
sity of imposing it. 

If they are sick, remember you are their patron as well as 
their master : remit their labour, and give them all the assist- 
ance of food, physic, and every comfort in your power. 
Tender assiduity about an invalid is half a cure ; it is a bal- 
sam to the mind, which has a most powerful effect on the 
Dody, soothes the sharpest pains, and strengthens beyond the 
richest cordial. 

Ye who think that to protect and encourage virtue is the 
best preventive from vice, reward your female servants libe- 
rally. 

Charity should begin at home. Prevention is preferable 
to cure — ^but I have no objection to see your names orna- 
menting the lists of subscribers to foundUing hospitals and 



ITfTRODUCTION. 25 

female penitentiaries.* Gentle reader, for a definition of 
the word " charity,'''' let me refer you to the 13th Chapter of 
St. Paul's First Epistle to the Corinthians. 
^ "To say nothing of the deleterious vapours. and pestilen- 
tial exhalations of the charcoal, which soon undennine the 
health of the heartiest, the glare of a scorching fire, and the 
smoke so baneful to the eyes and the complexion, are conti- 
nual and inevitable dangers : and a cook must live in the 
midst of them, as a soldier on the field of battle surrounded 
by bullets, and bombs, and Congreve's rockets ; with this 
only difference, that for the first, every day is a fighting 
day, that her warfare is almost always without glory, 
and most praiseworthy achievements pass not only without 
reward, but frequently without thanks : for the most con- 
summate cook is, alas ! seldom noticed by the master, or 
heard of by the guests ; who, while they are eagerly de- 
vouring his turtle, and drinking his wine, care very little 
who dressed the one, or sent the other." — Almanack des 
Gourmands. 

This observation applies especially to the second cook, or 
first kitchen maid, in large families, who have by far the 
hardest place in the house, and are worse paid, and truly 
verify the old adage, "the more work, the less wages." 
If there is any thing right, the cook has the praise — when 
there is any tiling \^Tong, as surely the kitchen maid has 
the blame. Be it known, then, to honest John Bull, 
that this humble domestic is expected by the cook to take 
the entire management of all roasts, boils, fish, and 
VEGETABLES ; i. c. the principal part of an Englishman's 
dinner. 

The master, who wishes to enjoy the rare luxurj^^ of a 
table regularly well served in the best style, must treat his 



* Much real reformation might be effected, and most grateful services obtained, if 
families which consist wholly of females, would take servants recommended from 
the Magdalen — Penitentiary — or Guardian — who seek to be restored to virtuous 
society. 

" Female servants who pursue an honest course, have to travel, in their peculiar 
orbit, through a more powerfully resisting medium than perhaps any other class of 
people in civilized life ; they should be treated with something like Christian kind- 
ness : for want of this, a fault which might at the time have been easily amended, 
has become the source of interminable sorrow." 

" By the clemency and benevolent interference of two mistresses known to the 
writer, two servants have become happy wives, who, had they been in some situa- 
tions, would have been literally outcasts." 

A most laudable society for the encouragement of female servants, by a 
gratuitous registry, and by rewards, was instituted in 1813; plans of which may be 
had gratis at the Society's House, No. 10, Hatton Garden. The above is an extract 
from the Rev. H. G. Watkins's Hints to Heads of /am/Z/es, a work well deserving 
the attentive consideration of inexperienced housekeepers- 

c 



26 INTRODUCTION. 

cook as his friend — watch over her health* with the tenderest 
care, and especially be sure her taste does not suffer from 
her stomach being deranged by bilious attacks. 

Besides understanding the management of the spit, the 
stewpan, and the rolling-pin, a complete cook must know 
how to go to market, write legibly, and keep accounts 
accurately. < 

In well-regulated private families the most convenient 
custom seems to be, that the cook keep a house-book, con- 
taining an account of the miscellaneous articles she pur- 
chases ; and the butcher's, baker's, butterman's, green- 
grocer's, fishmonger's, milkman's, and washing bills are 
brought in every Monday; these it is the duty of the cook 
to examine, before she presents them to her employer every 
Tuesday morning to be discharged. 

* The greatest care should be taken by the man of fashion, that his cook's health 
be preserved : one hundredth part of the attention usually bestowed on his dog, or 
his horse, will suffice to regulate her animal system. 

"Cleanliness, and a proper ventilation to carry off smoke and steam, should 
be particularly attended to in the construction of a kitchen ; the grand scene of 
action, the fire-place, should be placed where it may receive plenty of light; hitherto 
the contrary has prevailed, and the poor cook is continually basted with her own 
perspiration." — Jl .C.^ Jim. 

" The most experienced artists in cookery cannot be certain of their work without 
tasting: they must be incessantly tasting. The spoon of a good cook is continually 
passing from the stewpan to his tongue; nothing but frequent tasting his sauces, 
ragouts, &LC. can discover to him what progress fliey have made, or enable him to 
season a soup with any certainty of success ; his palate, therefore, must be in the 
highest state of excitability, that the least fault may be perceived in an instant. 

" But, alas ! the constant empyreumatic fumes of the stoves, the necessity of 
frequent drinking, and often of bad beer, to moisten a parched throat ; in shorty 
every thing around him conspires quickly to vitiate the organs of taste; the palate 
becomes blunted ; its quickness of feeling and delicacy, on which the sensibility of 
the organs of taste depends, grows daily more obtuse ; and in a short time tJie gus- 
tatory nerve becomes quite unexcitable. 

I' If you find your cook neglect his business — that his ragouts are too highly 
spiced or salted, and his cookery has too much of the ' haut gout^^ j'ou may be sure 
that his index of taste wants regulating ; his palate has lost its sensibility, and it is 
high time to call in the assistance of the apothecary. 

'" Purger souvenV is the grand maxim in all kitchens where le Maitre d'Hdtel 
has any regard for the reputation of his table. Les Bons Homvies de Bouche 
submit to the operation without a murmur; to bind others, it slionid be made the 
first condition in hiring tliem. Those who refuse, prove ihey were not born to 
become masters of their art ; and their inditference to fame will rank them, as they 
deserve, among those slaves who pass their lives in as much obscurity as their own 
stewpans." 

To the preceding observations from ihe ^^ Jllmanack des Gourmands," we may 
add, that the Mouthician will have a still better chance of success, if he can prevail 
on his master to observe the same regime which he orders for his cook ; or, instead of 
endeavouring to awaken an idle appetite by reading the index to a cookery book, or 
an additional use of the pepjier-box and salt-cellar, rather seek it from abstinence 
or exercise ; — the philosophical gourmand will consider that the edge of our appetite 
is generally keen, in proportion to the activity of our other habits; let him atten- 
tively peruse our "Peptic Precepts," &c. which briefly explain the art of refreshing 
the gustatory nerves, and of invigorating the whole system. See in the following 
chapter on invitations to dinner — A recipe to make forty peristaltic peii 

SUaDERS. ' 



TRODCCTION. 27 

The advantage of paying such bills weekly is incalcula- 
ble : among others the constant check it affords against 
any excess beyond the sum allotted for defraying them, and 
the opportunity it gives of correcting increase of expense 
in one week by a prudent retrenchment in the next. " If 
you would live erven with the world, calculate your expenses 
at half your income — if you Avould grow rich, at one-third^ 

It is an excellent plan to have a table of rules for regu- 
lating the ordinary expenses of the family, in order to check 
any innovation or excess which other^vise might be intro- 
duced unawares, and derange the proposed distribution of 
the annual revenue. 

To understand the economy of household affairs is not 
only essential to a woman's proper and pleasant perfonnance 
of the duties of a wife and a mother, but is indispensable to 
the comfort, respectability, and general welfare of all families, 
whatever be their circumstances. 

The editor has employed some leisure hours in collecting 
practical hints for instructing inexperienced housekeepers in 
the useful 

Art of providing comfortably for a family ; 
which is displayed so plainly and so particularly, that a 
young lady may learn the delectable arcana of domestic 
affairs, in as little time as is usually devoted to directing the 
position of her hands on a pianoforte, or of her feet in a 
quadrille — this will enable her to make the cage of matri- 
mony as comfortable as the net of courtship was charming. 
For this purpose he has contrived a Housekeeper's Leger, 
a plain and easy plan of keeping accurate accounts of the 
expenses of housekeeping, which, with only one hour's atten- 
tion in a week, will enable you to balance all such accounts 
with the utmost exactness ; an acceptable acquisition to all 
who admit that order and economy are the basis of comfort 
and independence. 

It is almost impossible for a cook in a large family, to 
attend to the business of the kitchen with any certainty of 
perfection, if emplo^'ed in other household concerns. It is 
a Service of such importance, and so difficult to perform even 
tolerably well, that it is sufficient to engross the entire atten- 
tion of one person. 

" If we take a review of the qualifications which are indis- 
pensable in that highly estimable domestic, a good cook, we 
shall find that very few deserve that name."* 

* " She must be quick and strong of sisht ; her hearing most acute, that she may 
be sensible when the contents of her vessels bubble, although they be closely covered, 
and tJiat she may be alarmed before the pot boils over ; her auditory nerve ough» 



28 INTRODUCTION. 

" The majority of those who set up for professors of this 
art are of mean ability, selfish, and pilfering- every thing 
they can ; others are indolent and insolent. Those who 
really understand their business (which are by far the 
smallest number), are too often either ridiculously saucy, or 
insatiably thirsty ; in a word, a good subject of this class is 
a rara avis indeed !" 

" God sends meat," — who sends cooks ]* the proverb has 
long saved us the trouble of guessing. Vide Almanack des 
Gourmands, p. 83. 

Of what value then is not this book, which will render 
every person of common sense a good cook in as little time 
as rt can be read through attentively ! 

If the masters and mistresses of families will sometimes 
condescend to make an amAisement of this art, they will 
escape numberless disappointments, &c. which those who 
will not, must occasionally inevitably suffer, to the detriment 
of both their health and their fortune. } 

I did not presume to offer any observations of my own, 
till I had read all that I could find written on the subject, 
and submitted (with no small pains) to a patient and attentive 
consideration of every preceding work, relating to culinary 
concerns, that I could meet with. 

These books vary very little from each other ; except in 
the preface, they are 

" Like in all else as one egg to another." 

" Ab unOf disce omnes,''^ cutting and pasting- have been 
much oftener employed than the pen and ink : any one 
who has occasion to refer to two or three of them, will 
find the receipts almost always " verbatim et literatim ;" 
equally unintelligible to those who are ignorant, and use- 
less to those who are acquainted with the business of the 
kitchen. 

I have perused not fewer than 250 of these volumes. 

During the Herculean labour of my tedious progress 

to discriminate (when several saucepans are in operation at the same time) the sim- 
mering of one, the ebullition of another, and the full-toned wabbling of a third. 

"It is imperiously requisite that her organ of smell be highly susceptible of the 
various effluvia, that her nose may distinguish the perfection of aromatic ingredients, 
and that in animal substances it sliall evince a suspicious accuracy between tender- 
ness and putrefaction ; above all, her olfactories should be trembUngly alive to 
mustiness and empyreutna. 

" It is from the exquisite sensibility of her palate, that we admire and judge of the 
cook ; from the alliance between the olfactory and sapid organs, it will be seen that 
their perfection is indispensable." — ^9. C.fJun. 

* A facetious gourmand suggests that the old story of "lighting a candle to the 
devil," probably arose from this adage — and was an offering presented to his infernsu 
majesty by some epicure who was in want of a cook. 



INTRODUCTION. 29 

through these books, few of which afford the g-erm of a 
single idea, I have often wished that the authors of them 
had been satisfied with giving us the results of their own 
practice and experience, instead of idly perpetuating the 
errors, prejudices, and plagiarisms of their predecessors ; 
the strange, and unaccountable, and uselessly extravagant 
farragoes and heterogeneous compositions which fill their 
pages, are combinations no rational being would ever think 
of either dressing or eating ; and without ascertaining the 
practicability of preparing the receipts, and their fitness 
for food when done, they should never have ventured to 
recommend them to others : the reader of them will often 
put the same qucere, as Jeremy, in Congreve's comedy of 
^ Love for Lovey'^ when Valentine observes, " There's a page 
doubled down in Epictetus that is a feast for an emperor. 
— Jer. Was Epictetus a real cook, or did he only write 
receipts ?" 

Half of the modern cookeiy books are made up with 
pages cut out of obsolete works, such as the " Choice 
Manual of Secrets," the " True Gentlewoman's Delight," 
&c. of as much use, in this age of refinement, as the fol- 
lowing curious passage from "The Accomplished Lady's 
Rich Closet of Rarities, or Ingenious Gentlewoman's De- 
lightful Companion," 12mo. London, 1653, chapter 7, page 
42 ; which I have inserted in a note,* to give the reader a 
notion of the barbarous manners of the 16th century, with 
the addition of the arts of the confectioner, the brewer, the 
baker, the distiller, the gardener, the clear-starcher, and the 
perfumer, and how to make pickles, puff paste, butter, 
blacking, &c. together with my Lady Bouniifufs sovereign 
remedy for an inward bruise, and other ever-failing nostrums, 
— Dr. KiUemquick^s wonder-working essence, and fallible 
elixir, which cures all manner of incurable maladies directly 
minute, Mrs. JVotabWs instructions how to make soft po- 

* " A gentlewoman being at table, abroad or at home, must observe to keep her 
body straight, and lean not by any means with her elbows, nor by ravenous gesture 
discover a voracious appetite : talk not when you have meat in your mouth ; and do 
not smack like a pig-, nor venture to eat spoonmeat so hot that the tears stand in 
your eyes, which is as unseemly as the gentlewoman who pretended to have as little 
a stomach as she had a mouth, and therefore would not swallow her pease by 
spoonfuls ; but took them one by one, and cut them in two before she would eat 
tliem. It is very uncomely to drink so large a draught that your breath is almost 
gone — and are forced to blow strongly to recover yourself— throwing down your 
liquor as into & funnel is an action fitter for a juggler than a gentlewoman : thus 
much for your observations in generjil ; if I am defective as to particulars, your own 
prudence, discretion, and curious observations will supply." 

" [n CARVING at your own table, distribute the best pieces first, and it will appear 
very comely and decent to use a/o/•^■; so touch no piece of meat without it." 

'■'■Mem. The English are indebted to Tom Cory at for introducing the fork, for 
Wliich they called him F«m/er."— See his Crudities ^wo\.\. p. 106.— Edit. 1776, 8vo. 

C2 



30 INTRODUCTION. 

matum, that will soon make more hair grow upon thy 
head, " than Dobbin, thy thill-horse, hath upon his tail," 
and many others equally invaluable ! ! ! — the proper appella- 
tion for which would be " a dangerous budget of vulgar 
errors," concluding with a bimdle of extracts from " the Gar- 
dener's Calendar," and " the Publican's Daily Companion." 

Thomas Carter, in the preface to his " City and Country 
Cook," London, 1738, says, " What I have published is almost 
the only book, one or two excepted, which of late years has 
come into the world, that has been the result of the author's 
own practice and experience ; for though very few eminent 
practical cooks have ever cared to publish what they knew 
of the art, yet they have been prevailed on, for a small pre- 
mium from a bookseller, to lend their names to performances 
in this art unworthy their owning." 

Robert May, in the introduction to his "Accomplished 
Cook," 1665, says, "To all honest and well-intending per- 
sons of my profession, and others, this book cannot but be 
acceptable, as it plainly and profitably discovers the mystery 
of the whole art; for which, though I may be envied by 
some, that only value their private interests above posterity 
and the public good ; yet (he adds), God and my own con- 
science would not permit me to bury thpse, my experiences, 
with my silver hairs in the grave." 

Those high and mighty masters and mistresses of the ali- 
mentary art, who call themselves "pro/ess" cooks, are said 
to be veiy jealous and mysterious beings ; and that if, in a 
long life of laborious stove-work, they have found out a few 
useful secrets, they seldom impart to the public the fruits of 
their experience ; but sooner than divulge their discoveries 
for the benefit and comfort of their fellow-creatures, these 
silly, selfish beings will rather rmi the risk of a reprimand 
from their employers, and will sooner spoil a good dinner, 
than suffer their fellow-servants to see how they dress it ! ! ! 

The silly selfishness of short-sighted mortals, is never 
more extremely absurd than in their unprofitable parsimony 
of what is of no use to them, but would be of actual value 
to others, who, in return, would willingly repay them ten- 
fold. However, I hope I may be permitted to quote, in de- 
fence of these culinary professors, a couple of lines of a 
favourite old song : 

" If you search the world round, each profession, you'll find, 
Hath some snug little secrets, which the Mystery* they call." 

* " Almost all arts and sciences are more or less encumbered with vulgar errors 
and prejudices, which avarice and ignorance have unfortunately sufficient influence 
to preserve, by help (or hindrance) of mysterious, uniefinable, and not seldom ua- 



INTRODUCTION. 31 

My receipts are the results of experiments carefully made, 
and accurately and circumstantially related ; 

The TIME requisite for dressing being' stated ; 
( The Q,uANTiTiES of the various articles contained in each 
composition being carefully set down in number, weight, 

and MEASFRE. 

The WEIGHTS are avoirdupois; the measure, L^/we's gra- 
duated glass, i. e. a wine-pint divided" into sixteen omices, 
and the oimce into eight drachms. By a wine-glass is to be 
understood two ounces liquid measure ; by a large or table- 
spoonful, half an ounce ; by a small or tea-spoonful, a drachm, 
or half a quarter of an omice, i. e. nearly equal to two drachms 
avoirdupois. 

At some glass warehouses, you may get measures divided 
into tea and table-spoons. No cook should be without one, 
who wishes to be regular in her business. 

This precision has never before been attempted in cookery 
books, but I found it indispensable from the impossibility of 
guessing the quantities intended by such obscure expressions 
as have been usually employed for this pui-pose in former 
works : — 

I " For instance : a bit of this — a handful of that — a pinch 
of t' other — do 'em over with an egg — and a sprinkle of salt 
— a dust of flour — a shake of pepper — a squeeze of lemon, — 
or a dash of vinegar, &c. are the constant phrases. Season 
it to your palate, (meaning the cook's,) is another form of 
speech : now, if she has any, (it is very unlikely that it is 
in unison with that of her employers,) by continuaDy sip- 
ping piquante relishes, it becomes blunted and insensible, 
and loses the faculty of appreciating delicate flavours, so 
that every thing is done at random. 

These culinary technicals are so very differently under- 
stood by the learned who write them, and the unlearned who 
read them, and their " rule of thumb''^ is so extremely indefi- 

inlelligible, technical terms — Anglic^, nicknames — which, instead of enlightening 
the subject it is professedly pretended they were invented to illuminate, serve but to 
shroud it in almost impenetrable obscurity ; and, in general, so extravagantly fond 
are the professors of an art of keeping up all the pomp, circumstance, and mystery 
of it, and of preserving the accumulated prejudices of ages past undiminished, that 
one might fairly suppose those who have had the courage and perseverance to over- 
come these obstacles, and penetrate the veil of science, were delighted with placing 
difSculties in the way of those who may attempt to follow them, on purpose to deter 
them from the pursuit; and that they cannot bear others should climb the hill of 
knowledge by a readier road than they themselves did : and such is V esprit du carps, 
that as their predecessors supported themselves by serving it out gradatim et stil- 
latim, and retailing with a sparing hand the information they so hardly obtained, 
they find it convenient to follow their example : and, willing to do as they have been 
done by, leave and bequeath the inheritance undiminialied to those who may succeed 
tbem."— See p. 10 of Dr. Kitchiner o?i Telescopes^ 12rao. 1825, printed for VV^Jut- 
taker Ave Maria Lane. 



32 INTRODUCTION. 

nite, that if the same dish be dressed by different persons, it 
will generally be so different, that nobody would imagine 
they had worked from the same directions, which will assist 
a person who has not served a regular apprenticeship in the 
kitchen, no more than reading- "Robinson Crusoe" would 
enable a sailor to steer safely from England to India.* 

It is astonishing how cheap cookery books are held by prac- 
tical cooks : when I applied to an experienced artist to recom- 
mend me some books that would give me a notion of the 
rudiments of cookery, he replied, with a smile, " You may 
read Don Quixote, or Peregrine Pickle, they are both very 
good books." 

. Careless expressions in cookery are the more surprising, 
as the confectioner is regularly attentive, in the description, 
cf his' preparations, to give the exact quantities, though his 
business, compared to cookery, is as miimportant as the 
ornamental is inferior to the useful. 

"^ The maker of blanc-mange, custards, &c. and the endless 
and useless collection of puerile playthings for the palate (of 
first and second childhood, for the vigour of manhood seeketh 
not to be sucking sugar, or sipping turtle), is scrupulously 
exact, even to a grain, in his ingredients ; while cooks are 
unintelligibly indefinite, although they are intrusted with the 
administration of our food, upon the proper quality and pre- 
paration of M'hich, all our powers of body and mind depend ; 
their energy being invariably in the ratio of the perfonnance 
of the restorative process, i. e. the quantity^ quality, and 
perfect digestion of what we eat and drink. 
\ Unless the stomach be in good humour, every part of the 
machinery of life must vibrate with languor : can we then 
be too attentive to its adjustment ? ! ! 



CULINARY CURIOSITIES. 

The following specimen of the unaccountably whimsical harlequinade of foreign 
kitchens is from " La Chapelle" Nouveau Cuisinier, Paris, 1748. 

' A turkey," in the shape of ^^ football,'' or " a hedge-hog:" A shoulder of mut- 
ton," in the shape of a " bee-hive." — " Entree of pigeons," in the form of a " spider," 
or jswn-fashion, or " in the form of a frog," or, in " the form of the moon."— Or, 

* "In the present language of cookery, there has been a woful departure from 
the simplicity of our ancestors, — such a farrago of un appropriate and unmeaning 
terms, many corrupted from the French, others disguised from the Italian, some 
misapplied from the German, while many are a disgrace to the English. What can 
any person suppose to be the meaning of a shoulder of lamb in epigram, unless it 
were a poor dish, for a pennyless poet"? Aspect of fish, would appear calculated 
for an astrologer; and sAowWer o/mwtfonsttrprised, designed for a sheep-stealer.", 
'-A. C, Jun 



INTRODUCTION. 33 

"to make a pig taste like a wild boar ;" take a living pig, and let him swallow the 
following drink, viz. boil together in vinegar and water, some rosemary, thyme, 
BWeet basil, bay leaves and sage ; when you have let him swallow this, immediately 
whip him to death, and roast him forthwith. How " to still a cocke for a weak 
bodie that is consumed,— take a red cocke that is not too oide, and beat him to 
death." — See the booke of cookrye, very necessary for all such as delight therein. 
Gathered by A. W., 1591, p. 12. How to roast a pound of butter, curiousiy and 
well ; and to farce (the culinary technical for to stuff) a boiled leg of lamb with red 
herrings and garlic ; with many other receipts of as high a relish, and of as easy 
digestion as the deviVs venison, i. e. a roasted tiger stufted with tenpenny nails, or 
the " Bonne Bouche," the rareskin Rowskimowmowsky offered to Baron Mun- 
chausen, " a fricassee of pistols, with gunpowder and alcohol sauce." — See the Ad- 
ventures of Baron Munchausen, 12mo. 1792, p. 200 ; and the horrible but authentic 
account of Ardesoif, in Moubray's Treatise on Poultry, 8vo. 181fi, p. 18. 

But the most extraordinary of alt the culinary receipts that have been under my 
ej'e, is the following diabolically cruel directions of Mizald, '■^how to roast and eat a 
goose alive." ."Take a goose or a duck, or some such lively creature, (but a goose 
Is best of all for this purpose,) pull off all her feathers, only the head and neck must 
be spared : then make a tire round about her, not too close to her, that the smoke do 
not choke her, and that the fire may not burn her too soon ; nor too far off, that she may 
not escape free : within the circle of the fire let there be set small cups and pots full 
of water, wherein salt and honey are mingled : and let there be set also chargers full 
of sodden apples, cut into small pieces in the dish. The goose must be all larded, and 
basted over with butler, to make her the more fit to be eaten, and may roast the 
better : put then fire about her, but do not make too much haste, when as you see 
her begin to roast ; for by walking about, and flying here and there, being cooped in 
by the fire that stops her way out, the unwearied goose is kept in ; she will fall to 
drink the water to quench her thirst and cool her heart, and all her b*:dy, and the 
apple-sauce will make her dung, and cleanse and empty her. And when she roasteth, 
BJid consumes inwardly, always wet her head and heart with a wet sponge; and 
when you see her giddy with running, and begin to stumble, her heart wants moist- 
ure, and she is roasted enough. Take her up, set her before your gue.«ts, and she 
will cry as you cut off any part from her, and will be almost eaten up before she be 
dead ; it is mighty pleasant to behold ! !" — See Wecker's Secrets ofji'ature, in folio, 
London, 1660, p. 148. 309.* 

" We suppose Mr. Mizald stole this receipt from the kitchen of his infernal 
majesty : probably it might have been one of the dishes the devil ordered when h© 
invited Nero and Caligula to a feast." — A. C, Jun. 

This is also related in Baptista Porta's JSTatural Magicke, fol. 1658, p. 321. 
This very curious (but not scarce) book contains, among other strange tricks and 
fancies of " the Olden Time,'' directions, " how to roast and boil a fowl at the 
same time, so that one-half shall be roasted and the other boiled ; and " if you 
have a lacke of cooks, how to persuade a goose to roast himself e ! .'" — See a second act 
of the above tragedy in page 80 of the Gentleman's Magazine for January, 1809. 

Many articles were in vogue in the 14th century, which are now obsolete. We 
add the following specimens of the culinary affairs of days of yore. 

Sauce for a goose, A. D. 1381. 

" Take a faire panne, and set hit under the goose whill she rostes ; and kepe clene 
the grese that droppes thereof, and put thereto a godele (good deal) of Wyn, and a 
litel vinegur, and verjus, and onyons mynced, or garlek; then take the gottes (gut) 
of the goose and shtte horn, and scrape hom clene in water and salt, and so wash 
hom, and hack hom small, then do all this togedur in a piffenet (pipkin), and do 
thereto raisinges of corance, and pouder of pepur and of ginger, and of canell and 
hole Clowes and maces, and let hit boyle and serve hit forthe." 

" That unwieldy marine animal the porpus was dressed in a variety of modes, 
salted, roasted, stewed, &c. Our ancestors were not singular in their partiality to 
it; I find, from an ingenious friend of mine, that it is even now, A. D. 1790, sold in 
the markets of most towns in Portugal ; the ilesh of it is intolerably hard and 
rancid."— Warner's Antiq. Cul. 4to. p. 15. 

" The swANt was also a dish of state, and in high fashion when the elegance of 

• See note to No. 59; how to plump the liver of a goose. 

t " It is a curious Illustration of the de gustibus non est disputanduniy tliat tli8 



34 IJN'TRODUCTION. 

the feast was estimated by the magnitude of the articles of which itwascomp(-)sed; 
the number consumed at the Earl of Northumberland's table, A. D. 1512, aiuouiited 
to twenty." — JVorthumberland Household-book, p. 108. 

" The CRANE was a darling dainty in William the Conqueror's time, and so partial 
was that monarch to it, that when his prime favourite, William Fitz-Osborne, the 
steward of the household, served him with a crane scarcely half roasted, the king 
was so highly exasperated, that he hfted up his fist, and would have strucken him, 
had not Etido (appointed Bapifer immediately after) warded off the blow." — 
Warner's Antiq. Cul. p. 12. 

Seals, curlews, herons, bitterns, and the peacock, that noble bird, " the 
food of lovers and the meat of lord:;," were also at this time in high fashion, vvhea 
the baronial entertainments were characterized by a grandeur and pompous cere- 
monial, approaching nearly to the magnificence of royalty ; there was scarcely any 
royal or noble feast without pecokkes, which were stuffed with spices and sweet 
herbs, roasted and served up whole, and covered after dressing with the skin and 
feathers ; the beak and comb gilt, and the tail spread, and some, instead of the 
feathers, covered it with leaf gold ; it was a common dish on grand occasions, and 
continued to adorn the English table till the beginning of the seventeenth century. 

In Massinger's play of " The City Madam," Holdfast, exclaiming against city 
luxury, says, " three fat wethers bruised, to make sauce for a single peacock." 

This bird is one of those luxuries which were often sought, because they were 
seldom found : its scarcity and external appearance are its only recommendation ; 
the meat of it is tough and tasteiess. 

Another favourite dish at the tables of our forefathers, was a pie of stupendous 
magnitude, out of which, on its being opened, a flock of living birds flew forth, to 
the no small surprise and amusement of the guests. 

'•' Four-and-twenty blackbirds baked in a pie ; 
When the pie was open'd, the birds began to sing — 
Oh ! what a dainty dash — 'tis fit for any king." 

This was a common joke at an old English feast. These animated pies were often 
introduced " to set on," as Hamlet says, " a quantity of barren spectators to laugh ;" 
there is an instance of a dwarf undergoing such an incrustation. About the year 
1630, king Charles and his queen were entertained by the duke and dutchess of 
Buckingham, at Burleigh on the Hill, on which occasion Jkffkry Hudson, the 
dwarf, was served up in a cold pie. — See Walpole's Anecdotes of Paintings vol. 
ii. p. 14. 

The BARON OF BEEF was another favourite and substantial support of old English 
hospitality. 

Among the most polished nations of the 15th and IGth centuries, the powdered 
(salted) horse, seems to have been a dish in some esteem : Grimalkin herself could 
not escape the undistinguishing fury of the cook. Don Anthony of Guevera, the 
chronicler to Charles V., gives the following account of a feast at which he was 
present. " I will tell you no lye, I sawe such kindes of meates eaten, as are wont 
to be sene, but not eaten — as a horse roasted — a cat in gely — lyzards in hot 
brothe, frogqes fried," &c. 

While we are thus considering tlie curious dishes of olden times, we will cursorily 
mention the singular diet of two or three nations of antiquity, noticed by Herodotus, 
lib. iv. " The Jindrophagi (the cannibals of the ancient world) greedily devoured 
the carcasses of their fellow-creatures ; while the inoffensive Cahri (a Scythian 
tribe) found both food and drink in the agreeable nut of the Pontic tree. The Lo- 
tophagi lived entirely on the fruit of the Lotus tree. The savage Troglodyte 
esteemed a living serpent the most delicate of all morsels ; while the capricious 
palate of the Zyguntini preferred the ape to every thing."— Vide Warner's Antiq. 
Cul. p. 135. 

" The Romans, in the luxurious period of their empire, took five meals a day ; a 
breakfast (jentaculum;) a dinner, which was a light meal without any formal pre- 
paration (prandium) ; a kind of tea, as we should call it, between dinner and supper 
(merenda) ; a supper (cffina), which was their great meal, and commonly consisted 
of two courses ; the first of meats, the second, what we call a dessert ; and a posset, 

ancients considered the swan as a high delicacy, and abstained from the flesh of the 
goose as impure and indigestible." — Moubbay on Poultry, p. 36. 



INTRODUCTION. 35 

©r something delicious after supper {commissatio)." — ^Adam's Rom. Antig. 2d edi- 
tion, 8vo. 1792, p. 434 and 447. 

"The Romans usually began their entertainments with eggs, and ended with 
fruits ; hence, Ab ovo usque ad mala, from the beginning to the end of supper, 
Horat. Sat. i. 3. 6 ; Cic. Fam. ix. 20. 

" The dishes {edulia) held in the highest estimation by the Romans, are enume- 
rated, Gell. vii. 16, Macrob. Sat. ii. 9, Martial, v. 79, ix. 48, xi. 53, &c., a peacock 
(PAVo), Horat. Sat. ii. 2. 23, Juvenal, i. 143, first used by Hortensius, the orator, at 
a supper, which he gave when admitted into tlie college of priests, (aditiali cand 
sacerdotii,) Piin. X. 20, s. 23 ; a pheasant, (phasiana, ex Phasi, Colchidis fluvio,) 
Martial, iii. 58, xiii. 72, Senee. ad Helv. 9, Petron. 79, Manil. v. 372 ; a bird called 
Attagen vel-ena, from Ionia or Phrygia, Horat. Epod. ii. 54, Martial, xiii. iii. 61, a 
guinea-hen, {avis Afra^ Horat. ib. Gallina J^umidica vel Africana, Juvenal, xi. 
142, Martial, xiii. 73) ; a Melian crane ; an Ambracian kid ; nightingales, biscinitB ; 
thrushes, turdi; ducks, geese, &c. Tomaculum, (a Ttnv(ji,)'vel Isicium, (ab inseco;) 
sausages or puddings, Juvenal, x. 355. Martial. 42. 9, Petron. 31." — Vide ibid. 
p. 447. 

That the English reader may be enabled to form some idea of the heterogeneous 
messes with which the Roman palate was delighted, I intioduce the following 
receipt from Apicixcs. 

" Thick sauce for a boiled chicken. — Put the following ingredients into a 
mortar : aniseed, dried mint, and lazar-root (similar to assafcetida), cover them with 
vinegar ; add dates ; pour in liquamen, oil, and a small quantity of mustard seeds ; 
reduce all to a proper thickness with port wine warmed ; and then pour this same 
over your chicken, which should previously be boiled in anise-seed water." 

Liquamen and Oarum were synonymous terms for the same thing ; the former 
adopted in the room of the latter, about the age of Aurelian. It was a liquid, and 
thus prepared : the guts of large fish, and a variety of small fish, were put into a 
vessel and well salted, and exposed to the sun till they became putrid. A liquor was 
produced in a short time, which being strained ofi", was the liquamen. — Vide Lister 
in Apicium, p. 16, notes. 

Essence of anchovy, as it is usually made for sale, when it has been opened about 
ten days, is not much unlike the Roman liquamen. See No. 433. Some suppose it 
was the same thing as the Russian Caviar, which is prepared from the roe of the 
sturgeon. 

The BLACK BROTH of Lacedcemon will long continue to excite the wonder of the 
philosopher, and the disgust of the epicure. What the ingredients of this sable 
composition were, we cannot exactly ascertain. Jul. Pollux says, the Lacedsemo- 
nian black broth was blood, thickened in a certain way : Dr. Lister (m Apicium) 
supposes it to have been hog's blood; if so, this celebrated Spartan dish bore no 
very distant resemblance to the black-puddings of our days. It could not be a very 
alluring mess, since a citizen of .Sijbaris having tasted it, declared it was no longer 
a matter of astonishment with him, wtiy the Spartans were so fearless of death, 
since any one in his senses would much rather die, than exist on such execrable 
food.— Vide Athenceum, lib. iv. c. 3. When Dionysius the tyrant had tasted the 
Hack broth, he exclaimed against it as miserable stuff; the cook replied — " It wa3 
no wonder, for the sauce was wanting." "What sauce!" says Dionysius. The 
answer was, — " Labour and exercise, hunger and thirst, these are the sauces wc 
Jtacedamonians use," andthey make the coarsest fare agreeable. — Cickro,3 TuscuI. 



INYITATIONS TO DINNER. 



In " the affairs of the mouth" the strictest punctuality is 
indispensable ; the gastronomer ought to be as accurate an 
observer of time, as the astronomer. The least delay pro- 
duces fatal and irreparable misfortunes. 

Almost all other ceremonies and civil duties may be put 
off for several hours without much inconvenience, and all 
may be postponed without absolute dang-er. A little delay 
may try the patience of those who are waiting ; but the act 
itself will be equally perfect and equally valid. Procrasti- 
nation sometimes is rather advantageous than prejudicial; 
It gives time for reflection, and may prevent our taking a 
step which would have made us miserable for life ; the delay 
of a courier has prevented the conclusion of a convention, 
the signing of which might have occasioned the ruin of a 
nation. 

If, from affairs the most important, we descend to our 
pleasures and amusements, we shall find new arguments in 
support of our assertions. The putting off of a rendezvous, 
or a ball, &c. will make them the more delightful. To hope 
is to enjoy. 

" Man never is, but always to be blest." 

The anticipation of pleasure warms our imagination, and 
keeps those feelings alive, which possession too often extin- 
guishes'. 

" 'T is expectation only makes us blest; 
Enjoyment disappoints us at the best." 

Dr. Johnson has most sagaciously said ; " Such is the state 
of life, that none are happy, but by the anticipation of 
change : the change itself is nothing : when wo have made 
it, the next wish is, immediately to change again." 

However singular our assertions may have at first ap- 
peared to those who have not considered the subject, we 
hope by this time we have made converts of our readers, 
and convinced the " Amateurs de Bonne Chere*'' of the truth 
and importance of our remarks ; and that they will remem- 
ber, that DINNER is the only act of the day which cannot be 
put off with impunity, for even five minutes. 



INVITATIONS TO DINNEB. 37 

/ In a well-regulated family, all the clocks and watches 
should agree ; on this depends the fate of the dirnier ; what 
would be agreeable to the stomach, and restorative to the 
system, if served at five o'clock, will be uneatable and in- 
^iIlutritive and indigestible at a quarter past. 

The dining-room should be furnished with a good-going 
clock; the space over the kitchen fire-place with another, 
vibrating in unison with the former, so placed, that the cook 
may keep one eye on the clock, and the other on the spit, 
&c. She will calculate to a minute the time required to 
roast a large capon or a little lark, and is equally attentive 
to the degree of heat of her stove, and the time her sauce 
remams on it, when to withdraw the bakings from the oven, 
the roast from the spit, and the stew from the pan. 

With all our love of pmictuality, the first consideration 
must still be, that the dimier " be well done, when 't is done."_ 

It is a common fault with cooks who are anxious about 
time, to overdress every thing — the guests had better wait 
than the dinner — a little delay will improve their appetite ; 
but if the dinner waits for the guests, it will be deteriorated 
every minute : the host who wishes to entertain his friends 
with food perfectly well dressed, while he most earnestly 
endeavours to impress on their minds the importance of 
oeing punctual to the appointed hour, will still allow his cook 
a quarter of an hour's grace. 

The old adage that "the eye is often bigger than the 
belly," is often verified by the ridiculous vanity of those 
who wish to make an appearance above their fortune. 
Nothing can be more ruinous to real comfort than the too 
common custom of setting out a table, with a parade and a 
profusion, unsuited not only to the circumstances of the 
hosts, but to the number of the guests ; or more fatal to 
true hospitality, than the multiplicity of dishes which luxury 
has made fashionable at the tables of the great, the wealthy, 
and the ostentatious, who are, often, neither great nor 
wealthy. 

Such pompous preparation, instead of being a compliment 
to our guests, is nothing better than an indirect offence ; it is 
a tacit insinuation, that it is absolutely necessaiy to provide 
such delicacies to bribe the depravity of their palates, when 
we desire the pleasure of their company ; and that society 
now, must be purchased, at the same price Swift told 
Pope he was obliged to pay for it in Ireland. " I should 
hardly prevail to find one visiter, if I were not able to hire 
him with a bottle of wine." Vide Swift's letters to Pope, 
July 1 0th, 1733. 

D 



38 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 

When twice as much cooking- is undertaken as there are 
servants, or conveniences in the kitchen to do it properly, 
dishes must be dressed long before the dinner hour, and 
stand by spoiling — the poor cook loses her credit, and the 
poor g-uests get indigestions. Why prepare for eight or ten 
friends, more than sufficient for twenty or thirty visiters ? 
*' Enough is as good as a feast," and a prudent provider, who 
sensibly takes measure of the stomachic, instead of the 
SILLY ocular, appetite of his guests, may entertain his 
friends, three times as often, and ten times as well. 

It is your senseless second courses — ridiculous variety 
of wines, liq,ueurs, ices,* desserts, &c. — w^hich are served 
up merely to feed the eye, or pamper palled appetite, that 
overcome the stomach and paralyze digestion, and seduce 
" children of a larger growth" to sacrifice the health and 
comfort of several days, for the baby-pleasure of tickling 
their tongue for a few minutes, with trifles and custards ! ! ! 
&c. &c. 

" Indigestion will sometimes overtake the most experi- 
enced epicure ; when the gustatory nerves are in good 
humour, hunger and savoury viands will sometimes seduce 
the tongue of a ^ grand gourmand^ to betray the interests of 
his stomach in spite of his brains. 

" On such an unfortunate occasion, when the stomach 
sends forth eructantt signals of distress, the peristaltic per- 
suaders are as agreeable and effectual assistance as can be 
offered; and for delicate constitutions, and those that are 
impaired by age or intemperance, are a valuable panacea. 

" They derive, and deserve this name, from the peculiar 
mildness of their operation. One or two very gently in- 
crease the action of the principal viscera, help them to do 
their work a little faster, and enable the stomach to serve 
with an ejectment whatever offends it, and move it into the 
bowels. 

" Thus indigestion is easily and speedily removed, appe- 
tite restored, the mouths of the absorbing vessels being 
cleansed, nutrition is facilitated, and strength of body, and 
energy of mind, are the happy results." See "Peptic 
Precepts," from which we extract the following prescrip- 
tion — 

* Swilling cold soda water immediately after eating a hearty dinner, is another 
very unwholesome custom— take good ginger beer if you are thirsty, and don't li&e 
Sir John Barleycorn's cordial. 

^Strong peppermint or ginger lozenges are an excellent help for that flatulence 
With which some aged and dyspeptic people are afflicted three or four hours aftei 



INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 39 

To make forty peristaltic persuaders, 
Take 

Turkey rhubarb, finely pulverized, two drachms, 

Syrup (by weight), one drachm, 

Oil of carraway, ten drops (minims), 

Made into pills, each of which will contain three grains of rhubarb. 

" The DOSE OF THE PERSUADERS must be adapted to the 
constitutional pecuharity of the patient. When you wish to 
accelerate or augment the alvine exoneration, take two, 
three, or more, according to the effect you desire to produce. 
Two pills will do as much for one person, as^i;e or six will 
for another : they will g-enerally very regularly perform what 
you wish to-day, without interfering- with what you hope 
will happen to-morrow ; and are therefore as convenient an 
argument against constipation as any we are acquainted 
with. 

" The most convenient opportunity to introduce them to 
the stomach, is early in the morning, when it is unoccupied, 
and has no particular business of digestion, &c. to attend 
to — i. e. at least half an hour before breakfast. Physic 
must never interrupt the stomach, when it is busy in digest- 
ing food. 

" From two to four persuaders will generally produce one 
additional motion, within twelve hours. They may be taken 
at any time by the most delicate females, whose constitutions 
are so often distressed by constipation, and destroyed by the 
drastic purgatives they take to relieve it." 

The cloth* should be laid in the parlour, and all the para- 
phernalia of the dinner-table completely arranged, at least 
naif an hour before dinner-time. 

I The cook's labour will be lost, if the parlour-table be not 
ready for action, and the eaters ready for the eatables, which 
the least delay will irreparably injure : therefore, the gour- 
mand will be punctual for the sake of gratifying his ruling 
passion ; the invalid, to avoid the danger of encountering 
an indigestion from eating ill-dressed food; and the rational 
EPICURE, who happily attends the banquet with " mens sana 
in corpore sano,^^ will keep the time not only for these strong 
reasons, but that he may not lose the advantage of being 



' * Le Grand Sommelier^ or chief butlbr, in former times was expected to be 
especially accomplished in the art of folding table linen, so as to lay his napkins in 
different forms every day : these transformations are particularly described in Rose's 
Instruciions for the Officers of the Mouth, 1682, p. J 11, &c. " To pleat a napkin in 
the form of a cockle-shell double"— "in the form of hen and chickens"— " shape 
of two capons in a pye"— or " like a dog with a collar about his neck"— and many 
ethers equally whimsical. 



40 INVITATIONS TO DINNER. 

introduced to the other guests. He considers not only what 
IS on the table, but who are around it : his principal induce- 
ment to leave his own fireside, is the charm of agreeable 
and instructive society, and the opportunity of making con- 
nexions, which may augment the interest and enjoyment of 
existence. 

It is the most pleasing part of the duty of the master of 
the feast (especially when the guests are not veiy numerous), 
to take advantage of these moments to introduce them to 
one another, naming them individually in an audible voice, 
and adroitly laying hold of those ties of acquaintanceship or 
profession which may exist between them. 

This will much augment the pleasures of the festive board, 
to which it is indeed as indispensable a prelude, as an over- 
ture is to an opera : and the host will thus acquire an addi- 
tional claim to the gratitude of his guests. We urge this 
point more strongly, because, from want of attention to it, 
we have seen more than once persons whom many kindred 
ties would have drawn closely together, pass an entire 
day without opening their lips to each other, because they 
were mutually ignorant of each other's names, professions, 
and pursuits. 

To put an end at once to all ceremony as to the order in 
which the guests are to sit, it will save much time and 
trouble, if the mistress of the mansion adopts the simple 
and elegant method of placing the name of each guest in 
the plate which is intended for him. This proceeding will 
be of course the result of consideration, and the host v/ill 
place those together whom he thinks will harmonize best. 

Le Journal des Dames informs us, that in several fashionable 
houses in Paris, a new arrangement has been introduced in 
placing the company at a dinner-table. 

" The ladies first take their places, leaving intervals for 
the gentlemen ; after being seated, each is desired to call on 
a gentleman to sit beside her ; and thus the lady of the house 
i« relieved from all embarrassment of etiquette as to rank 
and pretensions," &c. 

But, without doubt, says the Journalist, this method has 
its inconveniences. 

" It may happen that a bashful beauty dare not name the 
object of her secret wishes ; and an acute observer may de- 
termine, from a single glance, that the elected is not always 
the chosen.^^ 

If the party is large, the founders of the feast may sit in 
the middle of the table, instead of at each end, thus they 
will enjoy the pleasure of attending equally to all their 



ITfVITATIOWS TO DINNER, 41 

ftiends ; and being in some degree relieved from the occu- 
pation of carving, will have an opportunity of administering 
all those little attentions which contribute so much to the 
comfort of their guests. 
va If the GUESTS have any respect for their host, or 
' prefer a well-dressed dinner to one that is spoiled, instead 
of coming half an hour after, they will take care to make 
their appearance a quarter of an hour before the time 
appointed. 

The operations of the cook are governed by the clock ; tlie 
moment the roasts, &c. are ready, they must go to the table, 
if they are to be eaten in perfection. 
1/ An invitation to come at five o'clock seems to be gene- 
-rally miderstood to mean six ; five precisely, half past Jive; 
and NOT LATER THAN FIVE (so that diiiiier may be on the 
table within five minutes after, allowing this for the variation 
of watches), five o'clock exactly. 

Be it known to all loyal subjects of the empire of good- 
living, that the committee of taste have unanimously 
resolved, that " an invitation to eta. beta. pi. must be in 
writing, and sent at least ten days before the banquet ; and 
must be answered in writing (as soon as possible after it 
is received), within twenty-four hours at least," espe- 
cially if it be not accepted : then, in addition to the usual 
complimentary expressions of thanks, &c. the best possible 
reasons must be assigned for the non-acceptance, as a parti- 
cular pre-engagement, or severe indisposition, &c. Before 
the bearer of it delivers it, he should ascertain if the person 
it is directed to is at home ; if he is not, when he will be ; 
and if he is not in town, to bring the summons back. 

Nothing can be more disobliging than a refusal wliich 13 
not grounded on some very strong and unavoidable cause, — 
except not coming at the appointed hour; — "according to the 
laws of conviviality, a certificate from a sheriff's officer, a 
doctor, or an undertaker, are the only pleas which are admis- 
sible. The duties which invitation imposes do not fall only 
on the persons invited, but, like all other social duties, are 
reciprocal. 

" As he who has accepted an invitation cannot disengage 
himself from it ; the master of the feast cannot put off the 
entertainment on any pretence whatever. Urgent business, 
sickness, not even death itself, can dispense with the obliga- 
tion which he is under of giving the entertainment for which 
he has sent out invitations, which have been accepted ; for 
in the extreme cases of compulsory absence, or death, his 
place may be filled by his friend or executor." — Vide It 

D2 



42 MANNERS. 

Manuel des Amphitryons, 8vo. Paris, 1808 ; and Cours Gasfro- 
nomique, 1809; to which the reader is referred for farther 
instructions. 

It is the least punishment that a blundering, ill-bred booby 
can receive, who comes half an hour after the time he was 
bidden, to find the soup removed, and the fish cold : more- 
over, for such an offence, let him also be mulcted in a pecu- 
niary penalty, to be applied to the fund for the benefit of 
DECAYED COOKS. TMs is the least pmiishment that can be 
inflicted on one whose silence, or violation of an eng-ag-ement, 
tends to paralyze an entertainment, and to draw his friend 
into useless expense. 

BoiLEAu, the French satirist, has a shrewd observation on 
this subject. " I have always been punctual at the hour of 
dinner," says the bard ; " for I knew, that all those whom I 
kept waiting at that provoking interval, would employ those 
unpleasant moments to sum up all my faults. — Boileau is 
indeed a man of genius, a very honest man ; but that dila- 
tory and procrastinating way he has got into, would mar the 
virtues of an angel." 

|. There are some who seldom keep an appointment : we 
can assure them they as seldom " 'scape without whipping," 
and exciting those murmurs which inevitably proceed from 
the best-regulated stomachs, when they are empty, and im- 
patient to be filled. 

1 The most amiable animals when hungry become ill-tem- 
pered : our best friends employ the time they are kept :\vait- 
ing, in recollecting and repeating any real faults we have, 
and attributing to us a thousand imaginary ones. 

Ill-bred beings, who indulge their own caprice, regard- 
less how they Avound the feelings of others, if they possess 
brilliant and useful talents, may occasionally be endured 
as convenient tools ; but deceive themselves sadly, even 
though they possess all the wisdom, and all the wit in 
the world, if they fancy they can ever be esteemed as 
friends. 

Wait for no one : as soon as the clock strikes, say gtace, 
and begin the business of the day, 

" And good digestion wait on appetite, 
And health on both." 



MANNERS MAKE THE MAN. 

Good manners have often made the fortune of many, who 
have had nothing else to recommend them : 



CARVING. 43 

111 manners have as often marred the hope of those who 
have had every thing else to advance them. 

These reg-ulations may appear a little rigorous to those 
phlegmatic philosophers, 

" Who, past all pleasures, damn the joys of sense, 
With rev'rend dulness and grave impotence," 

and are incapable of comprehending the importance (espe- 
cially when many are invited) of a truly hospitable entertain- 
ment : but genuine connoisseurs in the science of good cheer 
will vote us thanks for our endeavours to initiate well-dis- 
posed amateurs. 

CARVING. 

Ceremony does not, in any thing, more commonly and 
completely triumph over comfort, than in the administration 
of " the honours of the table." 

Those who serve out the loaves and fishes seldom seem 
to miderstand that he is the best carver who fills the plates 
of the greatest number of guests, in the least portion of 
time. 

To effect this, fill the plates and send them round, instead 
of asking each individual if thpy choose soup, fish, &c. or 
what particular part they prefer ; for, as they cannot all be 
choosers, you will thus escape making any invidious dis- 
tinctions. 

A dexterous carver* (especially if he be possessed with 
that determined enemy to ceremony and sauce, a keen appe- 
tite,) will help half a dozen people in half the time one of 
your would-be-thought polite folks wastes in making civil 
faces, &c. to a single guest. 

It would save a great deal of time, &c. if poultry, espe- 
cially large turkeys and geese, were sent to table ready cut 
up. (No. 530.t) 

Fish that is fried should be previously divided into such 
portions as are fit to help at table. (See No. 145.) 

A prudent carver will cut fair,! observe an equitable 

* In days of yore " Le Grand Ecuyer T^-anchant" or the master carver, was 
the next officer of the mouth in rank to the " Maitre d^Hotel,^' and the teciinical 
terms of his art were as sincular as any of those which ornament " Grose's Classiceil 
Slang Dictionary," or "The Gipsies' Gibberish:" the only one of these old phrases 
now In common use is, " cut up the turkey :" — we are no longer desired to " dis- 
figure a peacock" — "unbrace a duck"^" unlace a coney" — "tame a crab"— 
•' tire an egg" — and "spoil the hen," &c. — See Instructions for the Officers of the 
Mouth, by Rose, 1682. 

t Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of setting a good example 
to their friends at the second table. If they cut bread., meat.) cheese.^ &c. FAiRLY>it 



44 CARVING. 

distribution of the dainties he is serving out, and regulate 
nis helps, by the proportion which his dish bears to the num- 
ber he has to divide it among, taking into this reckoning 
the quantum of appetite the several guests are presumed to 
possess. 

"Study their genius, caprices, go'&t — 
Tliey, in return, may liaply study you: 
Some wish a pinion, some prefer a leg. 
Some for a merry- thought, or sidesbone beg, 
The wings of fowls, then slices of the round 
The trail of woodcock, of codfish the sound. 
Let strict impartiality preside. 
Nor freak, nor favour, nor afiection guide." 

From the Banquet. 

The guest who wishes to ensure a hearty welcome, and 
frequent invitation to the board of hospitality, may calcu- 
late that the " easier he is pleased, the oftener he will be 
invited." Instead of unblushingly demanding of the fair 
hostess that the prime " tit-hif of every dish be put on your 
plate, receive (if not with pleasure, or even content) with 
the liveliest expressions of thankfulness whatever is pre- 
sented to you, and forget not to praise the cook, and the 
same shall be reckoned mito you even as the praise of the 
mistress. 

I The invalid or the epicure, whon. hp dines out, to save 
trouble to his friends, may cany with him a portable maga- 
zine OF TASTE. (See No. 462.) 

" If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with 
the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like 
mortification again : mercy to the feelings of the mistress 
of the mansion will forbid his then appearing otherwise than 
absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his 
extreme antipathy." 

" If he likes it ever so little, he will find occasion to con- 
gratulate himself on the advantage his digestive organs will 
derive from his making a moderate dinner, and consolation 
from contemplating the double relish he is creating for the 
following meal, and anticipating the (to him) rare and deli- 
cious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an un- 
restrained indulgence of his gormandizing fancies at the 
chop-house he frequents." 

" Never intrust a cook-teaser with the important ofRce of 
CARVER, or place him within reach of a sauce-boat. These 
chop-house cormorants, who 

will go twice as far as if they hack and mangle it, as if they had not half so tnuc& 
consideration for those in tlie kitchen as a good sportsman has for his dogs. 



CARVING. 46 

' Critique your wine, and analyze your meat, 
Yet on plain pudding deign at home to eat,' 

are, generally, tremendously officious in serving out the 
loaves and fishes of other people ; for, under the notion of 
appearing exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the 
guests, they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves 
the dainties vhich it is the peculiar part of the master and 
mistress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part 
of the business of the banquet : the pleasure of helping their 
friends is the gratification, which is their reward for the 
trouble they have had in preparing the feast. Such gentry 
are the terror of all good housewives : to obtain their 
favourite cut they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, 
that a dainty dog would hardly get a meal from them after; 
which, managed by the considerative hands of an old house- 
keeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family.". 
—Vide " Almanack des Gourmands." '<\ 

' I once heard a gentle hint on this subject, given to a blue' 
mould fancier,, who by looking too long at a Stilton cheese, 
was at last completely overcome, by his eye exciting his 
appetite, till it became quite ungovernable ; and unconscious 
of every thing but the mity object of his contemplation, he 
began to pick out, in no small portions, the primest parts his 
eye could select from the centre of the cheese. 
' The good-natured founder of the feast, higlily amused at 
the ecstasies each morsel created in its passage ever the 
palate of the enraptured gourmand, thus encouraged the per- 
severance of his guest — " Cut away, my dear sir, cut away, 
use no ceremony, I pray : I hope you will pick out all the 
best of my cheese. Don't you think that the rind and the 
ROTTEN will do very well for my wife and family ! /" There 
is another set of terribly yree and easy folks, who are " fond 
of taking possession of the throne of domestic comfort," 
and then, with all the impudence imaginable, simper out to 
the ousted master of the family, " Dear me, I am afraid I 
have taken your place !" 

Half the trouble of waiting at table may be saved by 
giving each guest two plates, two knives and forks, two 
pieces of bread, a spoon, a wine-glass, and a tumbler, and 
placing the wines and sauces, and the magazine of taste, 
(No. 462,) &c. as a dormant, in the centre of the table ; one 
neighbour may then help another. 

Dinner-tables are seldom sufficiently lighted, or attended. 
An active waiter will have enough to do to attend upon 
ha?lf a dozen active eaters. There should be about half as 
many candles as there are guests, and their flame be about 



46 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

eig-hteen inches above the table. Our foolish modem pom- 
pous candelabras seem intended to illuminate the ceiling", 
rather than to give light on the plates, &c. j 

Wax lights at dinner are much more elegant, and not so 
troublesome and so uncertain as lamps, nor so expensive ; 
for to purchase a "handsome lamp will cost you more than 
will furnish you with wax candles for several years. 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS,* 

AND OTHER 

SERVANTS 



On your first coming into a family, lose no time in imme- 
diately getting into the good graces of your fellow-servants, 
that you may learn from them the customs of the kitchen, 
and the various rules and orders of the house. 

Take care to be on good terms with the servant who waits 
at table ; make use of him as your sentinel, to inform you 
how your work has pleased in the parlour: by his report you 
may be enabled in some measure to rectify any mistake ; 
but request the favour of an early interview with ^'^our mas- 
ter or mistress : depend as little as possible on second-hand 
opinions. Judge of your employers from your own ob- 
servations, and THEIR behaviour to you, not from any idle 
reports from the other servants, who, if your master or mis- 
tress inadvertently drop a word in your praise, will immedi- 
ately take alarni, and fearing your being more in favour than 
themselves, will seldom stick at trifles to prevent it, by pre- 
tending to take a prodigious liking to you, and poisoning 
your mind in such a manner as to destroy all your confi- 
dence, &c. in your employers ; and if they do not immediately 
succeed in worrying you away, will take care you have no 
comfort while you stay: be most cautious of those who pro- 
•fess most: not only beware of believing suchhoney-tongued 

* A chapter of advice to cooks will, we hope, be found as useful as it is original: 
all we have on this subject in the works of our predecessors, is the following; "I 
shall sironprly recommend to all cooks of either sex, to keep their stomachs free from 
strong liquors till after dinner, and their noses from snuff." — Fide Clermont's PrO' 
fesscd CouA, p. 30, 8vo. London, 1776. 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 47 

4 

folks, but beware as much of betraying- your suspicions of 
them, for that will set fire to the train at once, and of a 
doubtful friend make a determined enemy. t 

If you are a good cook, and strictly do your duty, you will 
soon become a favourite domestic ; but never boast of the 
approbation of your employers ; for, in proportion as they 
think you rise in their estimation, you will excite all the 
tricks, that envy, hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness 
can suggest to your fellow-servants ; every one of whom, if 
less sober, honest, or industrious, or less favoured than your- 
self, will be your enemy. J 

While we warn you against making others your enemies, 
take care that you do not yourself become your own and 
greatest enemy. " Favourites are never in greater danger 
of falling, than when in the greatest favour," which often 
begets a careless inattention to the commands of their em- 
ployers, and insolent overbearance to their equals, a gradual 
neglect of duty, and a corresponding forfeiture of that regard 
which can only be preserved by the means which created it. 

-^ " Those arts by which at first you gain it, 

You still must practise to maintain it." 

If your employers are so pleased with your conduct as to 
treat you as a friend rather than a servant, do not let their 
kindness excite your self-conceit, so as to make you for a 
moment forget you are one. Condescension, even to a pro- 
verb, produces contempt in inconsiderate minds ; and to such, 
the very means which benevolence takes to cherish atten- 
tion to duty, becomes the cause of the evil it is intended to 
prevent. 

To be an agreeable companion in the kitchen, without 
compromising your duty to your patrons in the parlour, re- 
quires no small portion of good sense and good nature : in a 
word, you must " do as you would be done by." 

Act for, and speak of, every body as if they were 

PRESENT. 

We hope the culinary student who peruses these pages 
will be above adopting the common, mean, and ever misuc- 
cessful way of " holding with the hare, and rmming with 
the hounds," of currying favour with fellow-servants by 
flattering them, and ridiculing the mistress when in the 
kitchen, and then, prancing into the parlour and purring 
about her, and making opportunities to display all the little 
faults you can find [or invent) that will tell w^ell agains.t 
those in the kitchen ; assuring them, on your return, that they 
were vraised, for whatever you heard them blamed, and so 



48 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

excite them to run more extremely into any little error which 
you think will be most displeasing to their employers i 
watching an opportunity to pour your poisonous lies into 
their unsuspecting ears, when there is no third person to 
bear witness of your iniquity ; making your victims believe, 
it is all out of your sincere regard for them ; assuring them 
(as Betty says in the man of the world,) " That indeed you 
are no busybody that loves fending nor proving, but hate all 
tittling and tattling, and gossiping and backbiting," &c. &c. 

Depend upon it, if you hear your fellow-servants speak 

, disrespectfully of a master or a mistress with whom they 

have lived some time, it is a sure sign that they have some 

sinister scheme against yourself ; if they have not been well 

treated, why have they stayed ? 

" There is nothing more detestable than defamation. I 
have no scruple to rank a slanderer with a murderer or an 
assassin. Those who assault the reputation of their bene- 
factors, and ' rob you of that which nought enriches them,' 
would destroy your life, if they could do it with equal im- 
pmiity." 

" If you hope to gain the respect and esteem of others, 
and the approbation of your own heart, be respectful and 
faithful to your superiors, obliging and good-natured to your 
fellow-servants, and charitable to all." You cannot be too 
careful to cultivate a meek and gentle disposition ; you will 
find the benefit of it every day of your life : to promote peace 
and harmony around you, will not only render you a general 
favourite with your fellow-servants, but will make you happy 
in yourself. 

" Let your character be remarkable for industry and mode- 
ration ; your manners and deportment, for modesty and 
humility ; your dress distinguished for simplicity, frugality, 
and neatness. A dressy servant is a disgrace to a house, 
and renders her employers as ridiculous as she does herself. 
If you outshine your companions in finer}^ you will inevi- 
tably excite their envy, and make them your enemies.' 

" Do every tiling at the proper time." '■ 

" Keep every thing in its proper place." 
" Use every thing for its proper purpose." 

The importance of these three rules must be evident, to 
all who will consider how much easier it is to return any 
thing when done with to its proper place, than it is to find it 
when mislaid ; and it is as easy to put things in one place as 
in another. 

Keep your kitchen and furniture as clean and neat as pos- 
sible, which will then be an ornament to it, a comfort to 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS 49 

j^-our fellow-servants, and a credit to yourself. Moreover, 
good housewifery is the best recommendation to a good 
husband, and engages men to honourable attachment to 
you; she who is a tidy servant gives promise of being a 
careful wife. 

Giving away Victuals. 

Giving away any thing without consent or privity of your 
master or mistress, is a liberty you must not take ; charity 
and compassion for the wants of our fellow-creatures are 
very amiable virtues, but they are not to be indulged at the 
expense of your own honesty, and other people's property. 

When you find that there is any thing to spare, and that 
it is in danger of being spoiled by being kept too long, it is 
very commendable in you to ask leave to dispose of it while 
it is fit for Christians to eat : if such permission is refused, 
the sin does not lie at your door. But you must on no ac- 
count bestow the least morsel in contradiction to the will of 
those to whom it belongs. 

" Never think any part of your business too trifling to be 
well done." 

" Eagerly embrace every opportunity of learning any thing 
which may be useful to yourself, or of doing any thing which 
may benefit others." 

Do not throw yourself out of a good place for a slight 
affront. " Come when you are called, and do what you are 
bid." Place yourself in your mistress's situation, and con- 
sider what you would expect from her, if she were in yours ; 
and serve, reverence, and obey her accordingly. 

Although there may be " more places than parish-churches," 
it is not very easy to find many more good ones. 
"A roiling stone never gathers moss." 
" Honesty is the best policy." 
" A still tongue makes a wise head." 

Saucy answers are highly aggravating, and answer no good 
purpose. 

Let your master or mistress scold ever so much, or be 
ever so unreasonable ; as "a soft answer turneth away 
wrath," " so will silence be the best a servant can make.''^ 

One rude answer, extorted perhaps by harsh words, or un- 
merited censure, has cost many a servant the loss of a good 
place, or the total forfeiture of a regard which had been 
growing for years. 

" If your employers are hasty, and have scolded without 
reason, bear it patiently ; thev will soon see their error, and 

"E 



60 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

not be happy till they make you amends. Muttering on 
leaving" the room, or slamming the door after you, is as bad 
as an impertinent reply ; it is, in fact, showing that you 
would be impertinent if you dared." 

" A faithful servant will not only never speak disrespect- 
fully to her employers, but will not hear disrespectful words 
said of them." 

Apply direct to your employers, and beg of them to explain 
to you, as fully as possible, how they like their victuals 
dressed, whether much or little done.* 

Of what complexion they wish the roasts, of a gold colour, 
or well browned, and if they like them frothed ? 

Do they like soups and sauces thick or thin, or white or 
brown, clean or full in the mouth ? What accompaniments 
they are partial to ? 

What flavours they fancy ? especially of spice and hePcBS : 

" Namque coquus domini debet habere gulam." — Martial. 

It is impossible that the most accomplished cook can please 
their palates, till she has learned their particular taste : this, 
it will hardly be expected, she can hit exactly the first time ; 
however, the hints we have here given, and in the 7th and 
8th chapters of the Rudiments of Cookery, will very much 
facilitate the ascertainment of this main chance of getting 
into their favour. 

Be extremely cautious of seasoning high : leave it to the 
eaters to add the piquante condiments, according to their 
own palate and fancy : for this purpose, " The Magazine of 
Taste," or " Sauce-box,''^ (No. 462,) will be found an invalua- 
ble acquisition; its contents will instantaneously produce 
any flavour that may be desired. 

" Do gustibus non est disputandum." 

Tastes are as different as faces; and without a most 
atteniive observation of the directions given by her employ- 
ers, the most experienced cook will never be esteemed a pro- 
found palatician. 

It will not go far to pacify the rage of a ravenous gour-' 
mand, who likes his chops broiled brown, (and done enough, 
so that they can appear at table decently, and not blush when 
they are cut,) to be told that some of the customers at Dolly's 
chop-house choose to have them only half-done, and that this 
is the best way of eating them. 

* Meat that is not to be cut till it is cold, must be thoroughly done, especially ia 
Eummsr. 



FRIENDLY AD VICE TO COOKS. 51 

We all think that is the best way which we relish best, 
and which agrees best with our stomach: in this, reason 
and fashion, all-powerful as they are on most occasions, 
yield to the imperative caprice of the palate. 

Chacun a son govt. 

" The Irishman loves Usquebaugh, the Scot loves ale call'd Blue-cap, 
The Welchman he loves toasted cheese, and makes his mouth like a mouse-trap." 

Our Italian neighbours regale themselves with macaroni 
and parmesan, and eat some things which we call carrion. — 
Vide Ray's Travels, p. 362 and 406. 

While the Englishman boasts of his roast beef, plum pud- 
ding, and porter, 

The Frenchman feeds on his favourite frog and soupe- 
maigre. 

The Tartar feasts on horse-Jlesh, 

The Chinaman on dogs. 

The Greenlander preys on garbage and train oil; and 
each " blesses his stars, and thinks it luxury." What at one 
time or place is considered as beautiful, fragrant, and sa- 
vouiy, at another is regarded as deformed and disgustful.* 

" Ask a toad what is beauty, the supremely beautiful, the 
TO kaaon ! He will tell you it is my wife, — with two large 
eyes projecting out of her little head, a broad and flat neck, 
yellow belly, and dark brown back. With a Guinea negro, 
it is a greasy black skin, hollow eyes, and a flat nose. Put 
the question to the devil, and he will tell you that beauty is 
a pair of horns, four claws, and a tail." — Voltaire's Philos. 
Did. 8vo. p. 32. 

^^ Asafoetida was called by the ancients 'food for the 
GODS.' The Persians, Indians, and other Eastern people, 
now eat it in sauces, and call it by that name : the Gennans 
call it deviVs dung.'''' — Vide Pomet on Drugs. 

Garlic and clove, or allspice, combined in certain propor- 
tions, produce a flavour very similar to asafoetida. 

The organ of taste is more rarely found in perfection, and 
is sooner spoiled by the operations of time, excessive use, 
&c. than either of our other senses. 

There are as various degrees of sensibility of palate as 
there are of gradations of perfection in the eyes and ears of 
painters and musicians. After all the pains which the editor 
has taken to explain the hannony of subtle relishes, luiless 
nature has given the organ of taste in a due degree, this book 

* See chapter xv. " Chaque Pays, chaque Coutume." — Cours Gastronomique, 8vo. 
1809, p. 162. 



52 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

will, alas ! no more make an Osborne,* than it can a Rey- 
nolds, or an Arne, or a Shield. 

Where nature has been most bountiful of this faculty, its 
sensibility is so easily blunted by a variety of unavoidable 
circumstances, that the tongue is very seldom in the highest 
condition for appreciating delicate flavours, or accurately 
estimating the relative force of the various materials the 
cook employs in the composition of an harmonious relish. 
Cooks express this refinement of combination by saying, a 
well-finished ragout "tastes of every thing, and tastes of 
nothing :" (this is " kitchen gibberish'''' for a sauce in which 
the component parts are well proportioned.) 

However delicately sensitive nature may have formed the 
organs of taste, it is only during those few happy moments 
that they are perfectly awake, and in perfect good humour, 
(alas ! how very seldom they are,) that the most accom- 
plished and experienced cook has a chance of working with 
any degree of certainty without the auxiliary tests of the 
balance and the measure : by the help of these, when you 
are once right, it is your own fault if you are ever otherwise. 

The sense of taste depends much on the health of the indi- 
vidual, and is hardly ever for a single hour in the same state : 
such is the extremely intimate sympathy between the sto- 
mach and the tongue, that in proportion as the former is 
empty, the latter is acute and sensitive. This is the cause 
that " good appetite is the best sauce," and that the dish we 
find savoury at luncheon, is insipid at dinner, and at supper 
quite tasteless. 

To taste any thing in perfection, the tongue must be 
moistened, or the substance applied to it contain moisture ; 
the nervous papillae which constitute this sense are roused 
to still more lively sensibility by salt, sugar, aroma- 
tics, &c. 

If the palate becomes dull by repeated tasting, one of the 
best ways of refreshing it, is to masticate an apple, or to 
wash your mouth well with milk. 

The incessant exercise of tasting, which a cook is obliged 
to submit to during the education of her tongue, frequently 
impairs the very faculty she is trying to improve. " 'Tis 
true 'tis pity and pity 'tis," (says a grand gourmand) 
"'tis true, her too anxious perseverance to penetrate the 
mysteries of palatics may diminish the tact, exhaust the 
poM^er, and destroy the index, without which all her labour 
is m vain." 

* Cook to Sir Joseph Banks, Bart., late president of the Royal Society. 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 63 

Therefore, a sagacious cook, instead of idly andwantoiuy 
wasting the excitability of her palate, on the sensibility of 
which her reputation and fortune depends, when she has 
ascertained the relative strength of the flavour of the various 
ingredients she employs, will call in the balance and the 
measure to do the ordinary business, and endeavour to pre- 
serve her organ of taste with the utmost care, that it may 
be a faithful oracle to refer to on grand occasions, and new 
compositions.* Of these an ingenious cook may form as 
endless a variety, as a musician with his seven notes, or a 
painter with his colours : read chapters 7 and 8 of the Rudi- 
ments of Cookery. 

Receive as the highest testimonies of your employers' 
regard whatever observations they may make on your work : 
such admonitions are the most unequivocal proofs of their 
desire to make you thoroughly understand their taste, and 
their wish to retain you in their service, or they would not 
take the trouble to teach you. 

Enter into all their plans of economy ,t and endeavour to 
make the most of every thing, as well for your own honour 
as your master's profit, and you will find that whatever care 
you take for his profit wiU be for your own : take care that 
the meat which is to make its appearance again in the parlour 
is handsomely cut with a sharp knife, and put on a clean, 
dish : take care of the gravy (see No. 326) which is left, it 
will save many pounds of meat in making sauce for hashes, 
poultry, and many little dishes. 

Many things may be redressed in a different form 
from that in which they were first sers^ed, and improve 
the appearance of the table without increasing the expense 
of it. 

Cold fish, soles, cod, whitings, smelts, &c. may be 
cut into bits, and put into escallop shells, with cold oys- 
ter, lobster, or shrimp sauce, and bread crumbled, and put 
into a Dutch oven, and browned like scalloped oysters. 
(No. 182.) 

* " The diversities of taste are so many and so considerable, that it seemeth 
strange to see the matter treated of both by philosophers and physicians with so 
muclTscantiness and defect: tor the subject is not barren, but yieldeth much and 
pleasant variety, and dcth also appear to be of great importance." — From Dr. 
Grew's jinai. of Plants, fol. 1682, p. 286. The Dr. enumerates sixteen simple 
tastes: however, it is difficult to define more than six. — 1st. fitter as wormwood. 
2d. Sweet as sagSiT. 3d. Sour as vinegar. 4th. 5aZf as brine. 5th. CoW as ice. 6th. 
Hot as brandy. " Compound tastes, innumerable, may be formed by the combination 
of these simple tastes— as words are of letters." — See also Phil. Trans, vol. xv. 
p. 1025. 

t " I am persuaded that no servant ever saved her master sixpence, but she found 
it in the end inber pocKet," — Trusler's Domestic Management, p. 11, 



64 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

The best way to warm cold meat is to sprinkle the joint 
over with a little salt, and put it in a Dutch oven, at some 
distance before a gentle fire, that it may warm gradually; 
watch it carefully, and keep turning it till it is quite hot and 
brown : it will take from twenty minutes to three quarters 
of an hour, according to its thickness ; serve it up with 
gra^y; this is much better than hashing it, and by doing 
it nicely a cook will get great credit. Poultry (No. 
530*), FRIED FISH (see No. 145), &c. may be redressed in 
this way. 

Take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat 
in; in five minutes you may make it into excellent soup. 
See ohs. to Nos. 555 and 229, No. 5, and the 7th chapter of the 
Hudiments of Cookery. 

No good housewife has any pretensions to rational economy 
who boils animal food without converting the broth into some 
sort of soup. ; 

However highly the uninitiated in the mystery of soup- 
making may elevate the external appendage of his olfactory 
organ at the mention of " pot liquor," if he tastes No. 5, 
or 218, 555, &c. he will be as delighted with it as a French- 
man is with '■'■potage a la Camarani,^'' of which it is said " a 
single spoonful will lap the palate in Elysium ; and while one 
drop of it remains on the tongue, each other sense is eclipsed 
by the voluptuous thrilling of the Kngual nerves ! !" 

Broth of fragments. — When you dress a large dinner, 
you may make good broth, or portable soup (No. 252), 
at very small cost, by taking care of all the trimmings 
and parings of the meat, game, and poultry, you are going to 
use : wash them well, and put them into a stewpan, with as 
much cold water as will cover them ; set your stewpan on a 
hot fire ; when it boils, take off all the scum, and set it on 
again to simmer gently ; put in two carrots, two turnips, a 
large onion, three blades of pounded mace, and a head of 
celery ; some mushroom parings will be a great addition. 
Let it continue to simmer gently four or five hours ; strain it 
through a sieve into a clean basin. This will save a great 
deal of expense in buying gravy-meat. 

Have the dust, &c. removed regularly once in a fortnight, 
and have your kitchen chimney swept once a month; many 
good dinners have been spoiled, and many houses burned 
down, by the soot falling : the best security against this, is 
for the cook to have a long birch-broom, and every morning 
brush down all the soot within reach of it. Give notice to 
your employers when the contents of your coal-cellar are 
diminished to a chaldron. 



FBIENDLT ADVICE TO COOKS. 65 

It will be to little purpose to procure good provisions, 
unless you have proper utensils* to prepare them in: the 
most expert artist cannot perform his work in a perfect 
manner without proper instruments ; you cannot have neat 
work without nice tools, nor can you dress victuals well 
without an apparatus appropriate to the work required. See 
1st page of chapter 7 of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

In those houses where the cook enjoys the confidence of 
her employer so much as to be intrusted with the care of the 
store-room, which is not very common, she will keep an 
exact accomit of every thing as it comes in, and insist upon 
the weight and price being fixed to every article she pur- 
chases, and occasionally will (and it may not be amiss to 
jocosely drop a hint to those who supply them that she does) 
reweigh them, for her own satisfaction, as well as that 
of her employer, and will not trust the key of this room 
to any one ; she will also keep an account of eveiy thing 
she takes from it, and manage with as much consideration 
and frugality as if it was her own property she was using, 
endeavouring to disprove the adage, that " plenty makes 
waste,'''' and remembering that "wilful waste makes woful 
want." 

The honesty of a cook must be above all suspicion : she 
must obtain, and (in spite of the numberless temptations, 
&c. that daily offer to bend her from it) preserve a charac- 
ter of spotless integrity and useful industry,! remembering 
that it is the fair price of independence, which all wish for, 
but none without it can hope for ; only a fool or a madman 
will be so silly or so crazy as to expect to reap where he has 
been too idle to sow. 

Very few modern-built town-houses have a proper place 

* " A surgeon may as well attempt to make an incision with a pair of shears, or 
open a vein with an oyster-knife, as a cook pretend to dress a dinner without proper 
tools. — Verrall's Cookery, 8vo. 1759, p. 6. 

t Many cooks miss excellent opportunities of making themselves independent, 
by their idleness, in refusing any place, however profitable, &c. if there is not a 
kitchen maid kept to wait upon them. 

There are many invalids who require a good cook, and as (after reading this book 
they will understand how much) their comfort and effective existence depends on 
their food being properly prepared, will willingly pay handsome waies, (who would 
not rather pay the cook than the doctor?) buthave so little work in the kitchen that 
one person may do it all with the utmost ease, without injury to her health ; which 
is not the case in a large family, where the poor cook is roasting and stewing all 
day, and is often deprived of her rest at night. No artists have greater need to 
" make hay while the sun shines " and tiniery provide for the infirmities of age. 
Who will hire a superannuated servant 1 If she has saved nothing to support her- 
self, she must crawl to the workhouse. 

I It is melancholy to find, that, according to the authority of a certain great French 
author, " cooks, half stewed and half roasted, when unable to work any longer, 
generally retire to some unknown corner, and die in forlornness and want."— 
.Blackwood's Edin. Mag. vol, vii. p. 668. 



56 fRIENDlY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

to preserve provisions in. The best substitute is a HANorBTQ 
SAFE, which you may contrive to suspend in an airy situa- 
tion; and when you order meat, poultry, or fish, tell the 
tradesman when you intend to dress it : he will then have it 
in his power to serve you with provision that will do him 
credit, which the finest meat, &c. in the world will never 
do, unless it has been kept a proper time to be ripe and 
tender. 

If you have a well-ventilated larder in a shady, dry situa- 
tion, you may make still surer, by ordering in your meat and 
poultry such a time before you want it as will render it 
tender, which the finest meat caimot be, unless hung a proper 
time (see 2d chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery), accord- 
ing to the season, and nature of the meat, &c. ; but always, 
as " les bons hommes de louche de France'^ say, till it is " assez 
moriiji^e." 

Pennitting this process to proceed to a certain degree 
renders meat much more easy of solution in the stomach, 
and for those whose digestive faculties are delicate, it is of 
the utmost importance that it be attended to with the greatest 
nicety, for the most consummate skill in the culinaiy pre- 
paration of it will not compensate for the want of attention 
to this. (Read obs. to No. 68.) Meat that is thoroughly 
roasted, or boiled, eats much shorter and tenderer, and is in 
proportion more digestible, than that which is under-done. 

You will be enabled to manage much better if your em- 
ployers will make out a bill of fare for the week on the 
Saturday before : for example, for a family of half a dozen — 

Sunday.. . . Roast beef (No. 19), and my pudding (No. 554). 
Monday. . . Fowl (Nos. 16. 58), what was left of my pudding fried, and warmed 
in the Dutch oven. 

Tuesday. .. Calfs head. (No. 10), apple-pie. 

Wednesday Leg of mutton (No. 1), or (No. 33). 

Thursday . Do. broiled or hashed (No. 487), or (No. 484,) pancakes. 

Friday.... Fish (No. 145), pudding (No. 554). 

Saturday.. Fish, or eggs and bacon (No. 545). 

It is an excellent plan to have certain things on certain 
days. When your butcher or poulterer knows what you 
will want, he has a better chance of doing his best for you ; 
and never think of ordering beef for roasting except for 
Sunday. 

When the weather or season* is very unfavourable for 

* " The season of the year has considerable influence on the quality of butcher- 
meat; depending upon the more or less plentiful supply of food, upon the periodical 
change which takes place in the body of the animal, and upon temperature. The 
flesh of most full-grown quadrupeds is in highest season during the first months of 
winter, after having enjoyed the advantage of the abundance of fresh summer food> 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 57 

keeping meat, &c. give him the choice of sending that which 
is in the best order for dressing ; i. e. either ribs or sirloin of 
beef, or leg, loin, or neck of mutton, &c. 

Meat in which you can detect the slightest trace of pu- 
trescency, has reached its highest degree of tenderness, and 
should be dressed without delay; but before this period, 
which in some kinds of meat is offensive, the due degree of 
inteneration may be ascertained, by its yieldhig readily to 
the pressure of the finger, and by its opposing little resist- 
ance to an attempt to bind the joint. 

Although we strongly recommend that animal food should 
be hung up in the open air, till its fibres have lost some de- 
gree of their toughness ; yet, let us be clearly understood 
also to warn you, that if kept till it loses its natural sweet- 
ness, it is as detrimental to health, as it is disagreeable to 
the smell and taste. 

In very cold weather, bring your meat, poultry, &c. 
into the kitchen, early in the morning, if you roast, boil, or 
stew it ever so gently and ever so long ; if it be frozen^ it 
will continue tough and unchewable. 

Without very wa' .hful attention to this, the most skilful 
cook in the world will get no credit, be she ever so careful 
in the management of her spit or her stewpan. 

The time meat should hang to be tender, depends on the 
heat and humidity of the air. If it is not kept long enough, 
it is hard and tough ; if too long, it loses its flavour. It 
should be hung where it will have a thorough air, and be 
dried with a cloth, night and morning, to keep it from damp 
and mustiness. 

Before you dress it, wash it well ; if it is roasting beef, j^are 
0^ the outside. 

If you fear meat,* &c. wiU not keep till the time it is 
wanted, jaar-roast or par-boil it ; it will then keep a couple of 
days longer, when it may be dressed in the usual way, only 
it will be done in rather less time. 

Its flavour then begins to be injured by the turnips, &c. given as winter food ; nd 
in spring, it gets lean from deficiency of food. Although beef and mutton are never 
absolutely out of season, or not fit for the table, they are best in November, Decem- 
ber, and January. Porlc is absolutely bad, except during the winter." — Supplement 
to the Edin. Ency. Brit. p. 328. 

* "Larders, pantries, and safes must be sheltered from the sun, and other- 
wise removed from the heat ; be dry, and, if possible, have a current of dry, cool air 
continually passing through them. 

" The freezing temperature, i. e. 32 degrees of Fahrenheit^ is a perfect preservative 
from putrefaction : warm, moist, muggy weather is the worst for keeping meat. 
The south wind is especially unfavourable, and lightning is quickly destructive ; 
but the greatest enemy you have to encounter is the flesh-fly, which becomes trou- 
blesome about the month of May, and continues so till towards Michaelmas." — For 
further Obs. on this subject see " The Experieii/ced Butcher^'' page 160, 



58 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

" In Germany, the method of keeping flesh in summer is 
to steep it in Rhenish wine with a little sea-salt ; by which 
means it may be preserved a whole season." — Boerhaave's 
Academical Lectures, translated by J. Nathan, 8vo. 1763, 
p. 241. 

The cook and the butcher as often lose their credit by 
meat being- dressed too fresh, as the fishmonger does by fish 
that has been kept too long. 

Dr. Franklin in his philosophical experiments tells us, that 
if game or poultry be killed by electricity it will become 
tender in the twinkling of an eye, and if it be dressed im- 
mediately, will be delicately tender. 

During the sultry summer months, it is almost impossible 
to procure meat that is not either tough, or tainted. The 
former is as improper as the latter for the unbraced stomachs 
of relaxed valetudinarians, for whom, at this season, poultry, 
stews, &c., and vegetable soups, are the most suitable food, 
when the digestive organs are debilitated by the extreme 
heat, and profuse perspiration requires an increase of liquid 
to restore equilibrium in the constitution. 

I have taken much more pains than any of my prede- 
cessors, to teach the young cook how to perfonn, in the best 
manner, the common business of her profession. Being well 
gromided in the rudiments of cookery, she will be able to 
execute the orders that are given her, with ease to herself, 
and satisfaction to her employers, and send up a delicious 
dinner, with half the usual expense and trouble. 

I have endeavoured to lessen the labour of those who wish 
to be thoroughly acquainted with their profession ; and an 
attentive perusal of the following pages will save them much 
of the irksome drudgery attending an apprenticeship at the 
stove : an ordeal so severe, that few pass it without irrepa- 
rable injury to their health ;* and many lose their lives before 
they learn their business. 

To encourage the best performance of the machinery of 
mastication, the cook must take care that her dinner is not 
only well cooked, but that each dish be sent to table with 
its proper accompaniments, in the neatest and most elegant 
manner. 

Remember, to excite the good opinion of the eye is the 
first step towards awakening the appetite. 

* " Buy it with health, strength, and resolution, 
And pay for it, a robust constitution." 

Preface to the Cook's Cookery, 1758. 
See the preface to " The Cook's Cookery,'' p. 9. This work, which is very scarce, 
was, we believe, written to develope the mistakes in what he calls " The Thousand 
Errors," i. e. " The Lady's Cookery^" i. e. Mrs. Glasse's, i. e. Sir John Hill's. 



FRIENDLr ADVICE TO COOKS. 69 

* Decoration is much more rationally employed in render- 
ing a wholesome, nutritious dish inviting-, than in the elabo- 
rate embellishments which are crowded about trifles and 
custards. 

Endeavour to avoid o'yer-dressing' roasts and boils, &c. 
and o-yer-seasoning soups and sauces with salt, pepper, &c. ; 
it is a fault which cannot be mended. 

If your roasts, &c. are a little under-done, with the as- 
sistance of the stewpan, the gridiron, or the Dutch oven, 
you may soon rectify the mistake made with the spit or the pot. 

If over-done, the best juices of the meat are evaporated ; 
it will serve merely to distend the stomach, and if the 
sensation of hunger be removed, it is at the price of an 
indigestion. 

The chief business of cookery is to render food easy of 
digestion, and to facilitate nutrition. This is most com- 
pletely accomplished by plain cookery in perfection; i. e. 
neither over nor under-done. 

With all your care, you will not get much credit by 
cooking to perfection, if more than one dish goes to table at 
a time. 

To be eaten in perfection, the interval between meat being 
taken out of the stewpan and its being put into the mouth, 
must be as short as possible ; but ceremony, that most for- 
midable enemy to good cheer, too often decrees it other- 
wise, and the guests seldom get a bit of an " entremets'''' till 
it is half cold. (See No. 485.) 

So much time is often lost in placing every thing in apple- 
pie order, that long before dinner is announced, all becomes 
lukewarm ; and to complete the mortification of the grand 
gourmand, his meat is put on a sheet of ice in the shape of 
a plate, which instantly converts the gravy into jelly, and 
the fat into a something Avhich puzzles his teeth and the roof 
of his mouth as much as if he had birdlime to masticate. 
A complete meat-scree?! will answer the purpose of a hot 
closet, plate-warmer, &c. — See Index. 

It will save you infinite trouble and anxiety, if you can 
prevail on your employers to use the " sauce-box," No. 462, 
hereinafter described in the chapter of Sauces. With the 
help of this "magazine of taste," every one in company 
may flavour their soup and sauce, and adjust the vibrations 
of their palate, exactly to their own fancy ; but if the cook 
give a decidedly predominant and piquante gout to a dish, to 
tickle the tongues of two or three visiters, whose taste she 
knows, she may thereby make the dinner disgusting to all 
the other guests. 



60 FKIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

Never undertake more work than you are quite certain 
vou can do well. If you are ordered to prepare a larger din- 
ner than you think you can send up with ease and neatness, 
or to dress any dish that you are not acquainted with, rather 
than run any risk in spoiling any thing (by one fault you 
may perhaps lose all your credit), request your employers 
to let you have some help. They may acquit you for plead- 
ing guilty of inability ; but if you make an attempt, and fail, 
will vote it a capital offence. 

If your mistress professes to understand cookery, your 
best way will be to follow her directions. If you wish to 
please her, let her have the praise of all that is right, and 
cheerfully bear the blame of any thing that is wrong ; only 
advise that all new dishes may be first tried when the family 
dine alone. When there is company, never attempt to dress 
any thing „which you have not ascertained that you can do 
perfectly well. 

Do not trust any part of your work to others without care- 
fully overlooking them : whatever faults they commit, you 
will be censured for. If you have forgotten any article which 
is indispensable for the day's dinner, request your employers 
to send one of the other servants for it. The cook must 
never quit her post till her work is entirely finished. 

It requires the utmost skill and contrivance to have all 
things done as they should be, and all done together, at that 
critical moment when the dinner-bell sounds " to the ban- 
quet." 



"A feast must be without a fault ; 
And if 't is not all right, 't is naught. 



But 



" Good nature will some failings overlook, 
Forgive mischance, not errors of the cook: 
As, if no salt is thrown about the dish. 
Or nice crisp'd parsley scatter'd on Die fish, 
Shall we in passion from our dinner fly, 
And hopes of pardon to the cook deny, 
For things which Mrs. Glasse herself might oversee, 
And all mankind commit as well as she 1" 

Vide King's Jlrt of Cookery. 

Such is the endless variety of culinary preparations, that it 
would be as vain and fruitless a search as that for the philo- 
sopher's stone, to expect to find a cook who is quite perfect 
in all the operations of the spit, the stewpan, and the rolling- 
pin: you will as soon find a watchmaker who can make, 
put together, and regulate every part of a watch. 

" The universe cannot produce a cook who know^s how to 



FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 61 

do every branch of cookery well, be his genius as great as 
possible." — ^Vide the Cookh Cookery, 8vo. page 40. i 

The best rule for marketing is to pay ready money 
for every thing, and to deal w^ith the most respectable trades- 
men in your neighbourhood. 

If you leave it to their integrity to supply you with a good 
article, at the fair market price, you will be supplied with 
better provisions, and at as reasonable a rate as those bar- 
gain-hunters, who trot " around, around, aroimd about" a 
market, till they are trapped to buy some unchervable old 
poultry, tough tup-mutton, stringy cow beef, or stale fish, at 
a very little less than the price of prime and proper food. 
With savingslike these they toddle home in triumph, cackling 
all the way, like a goose that has got ankle-deep into good 
luck. 

All the skiU of the most accomplished cook will avail 
nothing, unless she is furnished with prime provisions. 
The best way to procure these is to deal with shops of esta- 
blished character : you may appear to pay, perhaps, ten per 
cent, more than you would, were you to deal with those who 
pretend to sell cheap, but you would be much more than in 
that proportion better served. 

Every trade has its tricks and deceptions : those who fol- 
low them can deceive you if they please ; and they are too 
apt to do so, if you provoke the exercise of their over-reach- 
ing talent.* 

Challenge them to a game at " Catch who can,'''' by entirely 
relying on your own judgment ; and you will soon find that 
nothing but very long experience can make you equal to 
the combat of marketing to the utmost advantage. 

Before you go to market, look over your larder, and con- 
sider well what things are wanting, especially on a Satur- 
day. No well-regulated family can suffer a disorderly ca- 
terer to be jumping in and out to the chandler's shop on a 
Sunday morning. 

Give your directions to your assistants, and begin your 
business early in the morning, or it will be impossible to 
have the dinner ready at the time it is ordered. 

* " He who will not be cheated a little^ must be content to be abused a great 
deal : the first lesson in the art of comfortable economy, is to learn to submit cheer- 
fully to be imposed upon in due proportion to your situation and circumstances: if 
you do not, you will continually be in hot water. 

" If you think a tradesman has imposed upon you, never use a second word, if 
the first will not do, nor drop the least hint of an imposition. The only method to 
induce him to make an abatement is the hope of future favours. Pay the demand, 
and deal with the gentleman no more : but do not let him see that you aro dis- 
pleased, or, as soon as you are out of sight, your reputation will suffer as much a» 
your pocket has."— Trusler's JVay to be Rich, 8vo. 1776, p. 85. 

F 



62 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

To be half an hour after the time is such a frequent fault, 
that there is the more merit in being ready at the appointed 
hour. This is a difficult task, and in the best-regulated 
family you can only be sure of your time by proper arrange- 
ments. 

With all our love of punctuality, we must not forget that 
the first consideration must still be, that the diimer " be well 
done when 't is done." 

If any accident occurs to any part of the dinner, or if you 
are likely to be prevented sending the soup, &c. to the table 
at the moment it is expected, send up a message to your 
employers, stating the circumstance, and bespeak their pa- 
tience for as many minutes as you think it will take to be 
ready. This is better than either keeping the company wait- 
ing without an apology, or dishing your dinner before it is 
done enough, or sending any thing to table which is disgust- 
ing to the stomachs of the guests at the first appearance of it. 

Those who desire regularity in the service of their table, 
should have a DIAL, of about twelve inches diameter, placed 
over the kitchen fireplace, carefully regulated to keep time 
exactly with the clock in the hall or dining-parlour ; with a 
frame on one side, containing a taste table of the pecu- 
liarities of the master's palate, and the particular rules and 
orders of his kitchen ; and, on the other side, of the rewards 
given to those who attend to them, and for long and faithful 
service. 

In small families, where a dinner is seldom given, a great 
deal of preparation is required, and the preceding day must 
be devoted to the business of the kitchen. 

On these occasions a char-woman is often employed to do 
the dirty work. Ignorant persons often hinder you more 
than they help you. We advise a cook to be hired to assist 
to dress the dinner : this would be very little more expense, 
and the work got through with much more comfort in the 
kitchen and credit to the parlour. 

When you have a very large entertainment to prepare, get 
your soups and sauces, forcemeats, &c. ready the day before, 
and read the 7th chapter of our Rudiments of Cookery. Many 
made dishes may also be prepared the day before they are 
to go to table ; but do not dress them quite enough the first 
day, that they may not be over-done by warming up again. 

Prepare every thing you can the day before the dinner, 

and order every thing else to be sent in early in the morning ; 

if the tradesmen forget it, it will allow you time to send for it. 

The pastry, jellies, &c. you may prepare while the broths 

are doing: then truss your game and poultry, and shape 



PBIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 63 

your coUops, cutlets, &c., and trim them neatly; cut away 
all flaps and gristles, &,c. Nothing should appear on table 
but what has indisputable pretensions to be eaten ! 

Put your made dishes in plates, and arrange them upon 
the dresser in regular order. Next, see that your roasts and 
boils are all nicely trimmed, trussed, &c. and quite ready 
for the spit or the pot. 

Have your vegetables neatly cut, pared, picked, and clean 
washed in the colander : provide a tin dish, with partitions, 
to hold your fine herbs : onions and shallots, parsley, thyme, 
tarragon, chervil, and burnet, minced very Jine ; and lemon- 
peel grated, or cut thin, and chopped very small : pepper and 
salt ready mixed, and your spice-box and salt-cellar always 
ready for action : that every thing you may want may be at 
hand for your stove-work, and not be scampering about the 
kitchen in a whirlpool of confusion, hmiting after these trifles 
while the dinner is waithig. 

In one drav/er under your spice-box keep ready ground, in 
well-stopped bottles, the several spices separate ; and also 
that n ixture of th^^^m which is called ^^ ragout powder'''' (No. 
457 or No. 460) : in another, keep your dried and powdered 
sweet, savoury, and soup herbs, &c. and a set of weights 
and scales : you may have a third drawer, containing fla- 
vouring essences, &c. an invaluable auxiliary in finishing 
soups and sauces. (See the accomit of the " magazine of 

TASTE," or " SAUCE-BOX," No. 462.) 

Have also ready some thickening, made of the best 
white flour sifted, mixed with soft water with a wooden 
spoon till it is the consistence of thick batter, a bottle of 
plain BROWNING (No. 322), some strained lemon-juice, and 
some good glaze, or portable soup (No. 252). 

" Nothing can be done in perfection which must be done 
in a hurry:"* therefore, if you wish the dinner to be 
sent up to please your master and mistress, and do credit 
to yourself, be punctual; take care that as soon as the 
clock strikes, the dinner-bell rings : this shows the establish- 
ment to be orderly, is extremely gratifying to the master and 
his guests, and is most praiseworthy in the attendants. 

But remember, you cannot obtain this desirable reputation 
without good management in every respect, If you wish to 
ensure ease and independence in the latter part of your life, 
you must not be unwilling to pay the price for which only 
they can be obtained, and earn them by a diligent and 

* Says Tom Thrifty, " except catching of fleas." See T. T.'s Essay on Early 
Rising. 



64 FRIENDLY ADVICE TO COOKS. 

faithful* performance of the duties of your station in your 
young days, which, if you steadily persevere in, you may 
depend upon ultimately receiving- the reward your services 
deserve. 

All duties are reciprocal: and if you hope to receive 
favour, endeavour to deserve it by showing yourself fond of 
obliging, and grateful when obliged; such behaviour will 
win regard, and maintain it: enforce what is right, and 
excuse what is wrong. 

Quiet, steady perseverance is the only spring which you 
can safely depend upon for infallibly promoting your progress 
on the road to independence. 

If your employers do not immediately appear to be 
sensible of your endeavours to contribute your utmost to 
their comfort and interest, be not easily discouraged. 
Persevere, and do all in your power to make yourself 

USEFUL. 

Endeavour to promote the comfort of every individual in 
the family ; let it be manifest that you are desirous to do 
rather more than is required of you, than less than your duty : 
they merit little who perform merely what would be ex- 
acted. If you are desired to help in any business which 
may not strictly belong to your department, undertake it 
cheerfuUy, patiently, and conscientiously. 

The foregoing advice has been written with an honest 
desire to augment the comfort of those in the kitchen, who 
will soon find that the ever-cheering reflection of having 
done their duty to the utmost of their ability, is in itself, 
with a Christian spirit, a never-failing source of comfort in 
all circumstances and situations, and that 

" VIRTUE IS ITS OWN REWARD." 

* N.B. " If you will take half the pains to deserve the regard of your master and 
mistress by being a good and faithful servant, you take to be considered a good 
fellow-servant, so many of you would not, in the decline of life, be left destitute of 
those comforts which age requires, nor have occasion to quote the saying that, 
' Service is no inheritance,' unless your own misconduct makes it so. 

" The idea of being called a tell-tale has occasioned many good servants to shut 
their eyes against the frauds of fellow-servants. 

" In the eye of the law, persons standing by and seeing a felony committed, 
which they could have prevented, are held equally guilty with those committing it." 
— Dr. Trusler's Domestic Management, p. 12, and Instructions to Servants. 



TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 



To reduce our culinary operations to as exact a certainty 
as the nature of the processes would admit of, we have, 
wherever it was needful, given the quantities of each article. 

The weights are avoirdupois. 

The measure, the graduated glass of the apothecaries. 
This appeared the most accurate and convenient ; the pint 
being divided into sixteen ounces, i/ie ounce into eight drachms. 
A middling-sized tea-spoon will contain about a drachm ; four 
such tea-spoons are equal to a middling-sized iable-spoorif 
or half an ounce ; four table-spoons to a common-sized 
wine-glass. 

The specific gravities of the various substances being so 
extremely different, we cannot oifer any auxiliary standards* 
for the weights, which we earnestly recommend the cook to 
employ, if she wishes to gain credit for accuracy and uni- 
formity in her business : these she will find it necessary to 
have as small as the quarter of a drachm avoirdupois, which 
is equal to nearly seven grains troy. 

Glass measures (divided into tea and table-spoons), con- 
taining from half an ounce to half a pint, may be procured ; 
also, the double-headed pepper and spice boxes, with caps 
over the gratings. The superiority of these, by preserving 
the contents from the action of the air, must be sufficiently 
obvious to every one : the fine aromatic flavour of pepper is 
soon lost, from the bottles it is usually kept in not being well 
stopped. Peppers are seldom groimd or pounded sufficiently 
fine. (See N.B. to 369.) 

N.B. The trough nutmeg-graters are by far the best 
we have seen, especially for those who wish to grate fine, 
and fast. 

* A large table-spoonful of flour weighs about half an ounce, 

F 3 



RUDIMENTS OF COOKERY. 



CHAPTER I. 

BOILING.* 



This most simple of culinary processes is not often per- 
formed in perfection. It does not require quite so much 
nicety and attendance as roasting- ; to skim your pot well, 
and keep it really boiling (the slower the better) all the 
"while, to know how long is required for doing the joint, &c., 
and to take it up at the critical moment when it is done 
enough, comprehends almost the whole art and mystery. 
This, however, demands a patient and perpetual vigilance, 
of which few persons are capable. 

The cook must take especial care that the water really 
boils all the while she is cooking, or she will be deceived in 
the time ; and make up a sufficient fire (a frugal cook will 
manage with much less fire for boiling than she uses for 
roasting) at first, to last all the time, without much mending 
or stirring. 

When the pot is coming to a boil there will always, from 

* " The process by which food is most commonly prepared for the table, boiling, 
is so familiar to every one, and its effects are so uniform, and apparently so simple, 
that few, I believe, have taken the trouble to inquire how or in what, manner those 
effects are produced ; and whether any, and what improvements in that bianch of 
cookery are possible. So little has this matter been an object of inquiry, that few, 
very few indeed, I believe, among tAe millions of persons who for so many ages 
have been daily employed in this process, have ever given themselves the trouble to 
bestow one serious thought on the subject. 

" Boiling cannot be carried on without a very great expense of fuel ; but any 
boiling-hot liquid (by using proper means for confining the heat) may be kept 
boiling-hot for any length of time almost without any expense of fuel at all. 

" The waste of fuel in culinary processes, which arises from making liquids boil 

unnecessarily, or when nothing more would be necessary than to keep them 

.boiling-hot, is enormous; I have not a doubt but that much more than half the fuel 

used in all the kitchens, public and private, in the whole world, is wasted precisely 

in this manner. 

"But the evil does not stop here. This unscientific and slovenly manner of 
cooking renders the process much more laborious and troublesome than otherwise 
it would be ; and, (what by many will be considered of more importance than 
either the waste of fuel or the increase of labour to the cook) the food is rendered 
less savoury, and very probably less nourishing and less wholesome. 

" It is natural to suppose that many of the finer and more volatile parts of food 
(those which are best calculated to act on the organs of taste), must be carried 
off with the steam when the boiling Is violent. "—Count Rumford's 10th Essay, 
pi 3.6. 



BOILING. 67 

the cleanest meat and clearest water, rise a scum to the top 
of it, proceeding- partly from the water ; this must be care- 
fully taken off as soon as it rises. 

On this depends the good appearance of all boiled things. 

When you have skimmed well, put in some cold water, 
which will throw up the rest of the scum. 

The oftener it is skimmed, and the cleaner the top 
of the water is kept, the sweeter and the cleaner will be 
the meat. 

If let alone, it soon boils down and sticks to the meat,* 
which, instead of looking delicately white and nice, will 
have that coarse and filthy appearance we have too often to 
complain of, and the butcher and poulterer be blamed for the 
carelessness of the cook in not skimming her pot. 

Many put in milk, to make what they boil look white ; but 
this does more harm than good: others wrap it up in a 
cloth ; but these are needless precautions : if the scum be 
attentively removed, meat will have a much more delicate 
colour and finer flavour than it has when muffled up. This 
may give rather more trouble, but those who wish to excel 
in their art must only consider how the processes of it can 
be most perfectly performed : a cook, who has a proper pride 
and pleasure in her business, will make this her maxim on 
all occasions. 

' It is desirable that meat for boiling be of an equal thick- 
ness, or before thicker parts are done enough the thiimer will 
be done too much. 

Put your meat into cold] water, in the proportion of about 
a quart of water to a pound of meat : it should be covered 
with water during the whole of the process of boiling, but 
not drowned in it; the less water, provided the meat be 
covered with it, the more savoury will be the meat, and the 
better will be the broth. 

The water should be heated gradually, according to the 
thickness, &c. of the article boiled. For instance, a leg of 
mutton of 10 pounds weight (No. 1,) should be placed over 
a moderate fire, which will gradually make the water hot, 
without causing it to boil for about forty minutes ; if the 
water boils much sooner, the meat Avill be hardened, and 
shrink up as if it was scorched : by keeping the water a cer- 
tain time heating without boiling, the fibres of the meat are 

* If, unfortunately, this should happen, the cook must carefully take it off when 
she dishes up, either with a clean sponge or a paste-brush. 

t Cooks, however, as well as doctors, disagree ; for some say, that " all sorts of 
fresh meat should be put in when the water boils." I prefer the above method for 
the reason given ; gentle stewing renders meat, &c. tender, and still leaves it sapid 
and nutritive. 



68 BOILING. 

dilated, and it yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken' 
off as soon as it rises. 

" 104. If a vessel containing water be placed over a steady 
fire, the water will grow continually hotter till it reaches the 
limit of boiling, after which the regular accessions of heat 
are wholly spent in converting it into steam. 

" Water remains at the same pitch of temperature, how- 
ever fiercely it boils. The only difference is, that with a 
strong fire it sooner comes to boil, and more quickly boils 
away, and is converted into steam." — Buchanan on the Eco- 
nomy of Fuel, 1810. 

The editor placed a thermometer in water in that state 
which cooks call gentle simmering; the heat was 212°, i. e. 
the same degree as the strongest boiling. 

Two mutton chops were covered with cold water, and one 
boiled a gallop, and the other simmered very gently for three 
quarters of an hour : the chop which was slowly simmered 
was decidedly superior to that which was boiled; it was 
much tenderer, more juicy, and much higher flavoured. The 
liquor which boiled fast was in like proportion more savoury, 
and when cold had much more fat on its surface. This ex- 
plains why quick boiling renders meat hard, &c., because its 
juices are extracted in a greater degree. 

Reckon the time from its first coming to a boil. 

The old rule of 15 minutes to a pound of meat, we think 
rafher too little : the slower it boils, the tenderer, the plumper, 
and whiter it will be. 

For those who choose their food thoroughly cooked (which 
all will who have any regard for their stomachs), twenty 
minutes to a pound for fresh, and rather more for salted 
meat, will not be found too miich for gentle simmering by 
the side of the fire, allowing more or less time, according 
to the thickness of the joint, and the coldness of the weather: 
to know the state of which, let a thermometer be placed in 
the pantry ; and when it falls below 40^*, tell your cook to 
give rather more time in both roasting and boiling, always 
remembering, the slower it boils the better. 

Without some practice it is difficult to teach any art ; and 
cooks seem to suppose they must be right, if they put meat 
into a pot, and set it over the fire for a certain time, making 
no allowance wh^ether it simmers without a bubble or boils 
a gallop. 

Fresh-killed meat will take much longer time boiling than 
that which has been kept till it is what the butchers call ripe, 
and longer in cold than in warm weather : if it be frozen, it 
must be thawed before boiling as before roasting ; if it be 



BOILING. 69 

fresh-killed, it will be tough and hard, if you stew it ever so 
long, and ever so gently. In cold weather, the night before 
the day you dress it, bring it into a place of which the tem- 
perature is not less than 45 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermo- 
meter. 

The size of the boiling-pots should be adapted to what 
they are to contain : the larger the saucepan the more room 
it takes upon the fire, and a larger quantity of water requires 
a proportionate increase of fire to boil it. 

A little pot 
Is soon hot. 

In small families we recommend block tin saucepans, &c. 
as lightest and safest. If proper care is taken of them, and 
they are well dried after they are cleaned, they are by far 
the cheapest; the purchase of a new tin saucepan being 
little more than the expense of tinning a copper one. 

Let the covers of your boiling-pots fit close, not only to 
prevent unnecessary evaporation of the water, but to prevent 
the escape of the nutritive matter, which must then remain 
either in the meat or in the broth ; and the smoke is pre- 
vented from insinuating itself under the edge of the lid, and 
so giving the meat a bad taste. See observations on Sauce- 
pans, in chapter 7. 

I If you let meat or poultry remain in the water after it is 
done enough, it will become sodden, and lose its flavour. 

Beef and mutton a little under-done (especially very large 
joints, which will make the better hash or broil,) is not a 
great fault ; by some people it is preferred : but lamb, pork, 
and veal are uneatable if not thoroughly boiled; but do not 
over-do them. 

A trivet or fish-drainer put on the bottom of the boiling- 
pot, raising the contents about an inch and a half from the 
bottom, will prevent that side of the meat which comes next 
the bottom from being done too much, and the lower part 
of the meat will be as delicately done as the other part ; and 
this will enable you to take out the contents of the pot, with- 
out sticking a fork, &c. into it. If you have not a trivet, 
use four skewers, or a soup-plate laid the wrong side upwards. 

Take care of the liquor you have boiled poultry or meat 
in ; in five minutes you may make it into excellent soup. 
(See obs. to No. 555 and No. 229.) 

The good housewife never boils a joint without converting 
the broth into some sort of soup (read No. 5, and chapter 7). 
If the liquor be too salt, only use half the quantity, and the 



70 BOILING. 

rest water. Wash salted meat well with cold water before 
you put it into the boiler. 

An estimation of the loss of weight which takes place in 
cooking animal food. — From Mr. Tilloch's Philosophical 

Magazine. 

" It is well known, that in whatever way the flesh of ani- 
mals is prepared for food, a considerable diminution takes 
place in its weight. We do not recollect, however, to have 
any where seen a statement of the loss which meat sustains 
in the various culinary processes, although it is pretty ob- 
vious that a series of experiments on the subject would not 
be without their use in domestic economy. t 

" We shall here give the result of a series of experiments 
which were actually made on this subject in a public esta- 
blishment ; premising that, as they were not undertaken from 
mere curiosity, but, on the contrary, to serve a purpose of 
practical utility, absolute accuracy was not attended to. 
Considering, however, the large quantities of provisions 
which were actually examined, it is presumed that the results 
may be safely depended upon for any practical purpose. It 
would, no doubt, have been desirable to have known not only 
the whole diminution of weight, but also the parts which 
were separated from the meat in the form of aqueous vapour, 
jelly, fat, &c. ; but the determination of these did not fall 
within the scope of the inquiry. 

lbs. oz. 

28 pieces of beef, weighing . . 280 
Lost in boiling 73 14 

"Hence, the weight lost by beef in boiling was in this 
case about 26^1bs. in lOOlbs. 

lbs. oz. 

19 pieces of beef, weighing . . 190 
Lost in roasting 61 2 

"The weight lost by beef in roasting appears to be 33 
per cent. 

lbs. oz. 

9 pieces of beef, weighing ... 90 
Lost in baking 27 

" Weight lost by beef in baking 30 per cent. 



BOILING. 71 

lbs. oz, 

27 legs of mutton, weighing . . 260 
Lost in boiling, and by having the 
shank-bone taken off ... . 62 4 

" The shank-bones were estimated at 4 ounces each; there- 
fore the loss by boiling was 35lbs. 8oz. 

" The loss of weight in legs of mutton m boiling is 21i 
per cent. 

lbs. oz. 

35 shoulders of mutton, weighing . 350 
Lost in roasting 109 10 

" The loss of weight in shoulders of mutton by roasting, 
is about 31 J per cent. 

lbs. oz. 

16 loins of mutton, weighing . .141 
Lost in roasting 49 14 

"Hence, loins of mutton lose by roasting about 35i 
per cent. 

lbs. oz. 

10 necks of mutton, weighing . 100 
Lost in roasting 32 6 

" The loss in necks of mutton by roasting is about 32§ 
per cent. 

" We shall only draw two practical inferences from the 
foregoing statement.— 1st, In respect of economy, it is more 
profitable to boil meat than to roast it. 2dly, Whether we 
roast or boil meat, it loses by being cooked from one-fifth to 
one-third of its whole weight." 

The loss of roasting arises from the melting out of the fat, 
and evaporating the water ; but the nutritious matters remain 
condensed in the cooked solid. 

In boiling, the loss arises partly from the fat melted out, 
but chiefly from gelatine and osmazome being extracted and 
dissolved by the water in which the meat is boiled ; there is, 
therefore, a real loss of nourishment, unless the broth 
be used; when this mode of cooking becomes the most 
economical.* , 

* The diminution of weight by boiling and roasting is not all lost, the fat skim- 
mings and the drippings, nicely clarified, will well supply the place of lard and for 
frying See No. 83, and the receipt for cheap soup (No. 229). 



72 



BAKING. 



The sauces usually sent to table with boiled meat, ^c. 

These are to be sent up in boats, and never poured over^ 
the meat, &c. 



Gravy for boiled meat 
Parsley and butter 
Chervil .... 

Caper 

Oyster 

Liver and parsley . 

Celery 

Onion . . . * . 

Shallot 

Wow wow . . . 
Curry . . . ; . 



(No. 327.) 
(No. 261.) 
(No. 264.) 
(No. 274.) 
(No. 278.) 
(No. 287.) 
(No. 2a&.) 
(No. 296, &:c.) 
(No. 295.) 
(No. 328.) 
(No. 348.) 



BAKING. 

The following observations were written expressly for 
this work by Mr. Turner, English and French bread and 
biscuit baker. 

" Baking is one of the cheapest and most convenient 
ways of dressing- a dinner in small families ; and, I may 
say, that the oven is often the only kitchen a poor man 
has, if he wishes to enjoy a joint of meat at home with his 
family. 

" I don't mean to deny the superior excellence of roast- 
ing to baking ; but some joints, when baked, so nearly 
approach to the same when roasted, that I have known them 
to be carried to the table, and eaten as such with great satis- 
faction. 

" Legs and loins of pork, legs of mutton, fillets of veal, 
and many other joints, will bake to great advantage, if the 
meat be good ; I mean well-fed, rather inclined to be fat : if 
the meat be poor, no baker can give satisfaction. 

" When baking a poor joint of meat, before it has been 
half baked I have seen it start from thfe bone, and shrivel up 
scarcely to be believed. 

" Besides those joints above mentioned, I shall enu- 
merate a few baked dishes which I can particularly re- 
commend. 

" A pig, when sent to the baker prepared for baking, 
should have its ears and tail covered with buttered paper 
properly fastened on, and a bit of butter tied up in a piece of 
linen to baste the back with, otherwise it will be apt to 
blister : with a proper share of attention from the baker, I 
consider this way equal to a roa.sted one. 



BAKING. 73 

" A goose prepared the same as for roasting, taking care 
to have it on a stand, and when half done to turn the other 
side upwards. A duck the same. 

" A buttock of beef the following way is particularly fine. 
After it has been in salt about a week, to be well washed, 
and put into a brown earthen pan with a pint of water; 
cover the pan tight with two or three thicknesses of cap 
or foolscap paper : never cover any thing that is to be baked 
with brown paper, the pitch and tar that is in brown paper 
will give the meat a smoky, bad taste : give it four or five 
hours in a moderately heated oven. 

" A ham (if not too old) put in soak for an hour, taken out 
and wiped, a crust made sufficient to cover it all over, and 
baked in a moderately heated oven, cuts fuller of gravy, and 
of a finer flavour, than a boiled one. I have been in the habit 
of baking small cod-fish, haddock, and mackerel, with a dust 
of flour, and some bits of butter put on them ; eels, when 
large and stuffed ; herrings and sprats, in a brown pan, with 
vinegar and a little spice, and tied over with paper. A hare, 
prepared the same as for roasting, with a few pieces of 
butter, and a little drop of milk put into the dish, and 
basted several times, will be found nearly equal to roasting; 
or cut it up, season it properly, put it into a jar or pan, and 
cover it over and bake it in a moderate oven for about three 
hours. In the same manner, I have been in the habit of 
baking legs and shins of beef, ox cheeks, &c. prepared 
with a seasoning of onions, turnips, &c.: they will take 
about four hours : let them stand till cold, to skim off" the 
fat; then warm it up all together, or part, as you may 
want it. 

" All these I have been in the habit of baking for the first 
families. 

" The time each of the above articles should take depends 
much upon the state of the oven, and I do consider the baker 
a sufficient judge ; if they are sent to him in time, he must 
be very neglectful if they are not ready at the time they are 
ordered." 

For receipts for making bread, French rolls, muffins, 
crumpets, Sally Lunn, &e., see the Appendix. 



G 



74 ROASTING, 

CHAPTER II. 

ROASTING. 

In all studies, it is the best practice to begin with the 
plainest and easiest parts ; and so on, by degrees, to such as 
are more difficult : we, therefore, treated of plain boiling, 
and we now proceed to roasting : we shall then gradually 
unravel to our culinary students the art (and mystery, untU 
developed in this work) of making, with the least trouble 
and expense, the most highly finished soups, sauces, and 
made-dishes. 

Let the young cook never forget that cleanliness is the 
chief cardinal virtue of the kitchen ; the first preparation for 
roasting is to take care that the spit be properly cleaned with 
sand and water; nothing else. When it has been well 
scoured with this, dry it with a clean cloth. If spits are 
wiped clean as soon as the meat is drawn from them, and 
while they are hot, a very little cleaning will be required. 
The less the spit is passed through the meat the better;* 
and, before you spit it, joint it properly, especially necks and 
loins, that the carver may separate them easily and neatly, 
and take especial care it be evenly balanced on the spit, that 
its motion may be regular, and the fire operate equally on 
each part of it; therefore, be provided with balancing- 
skewers and cookliolds, and see it is properly jointed. 

Roasting should be done by the radiant heat of a clear, 
glowing fire, otherwise it is in fact baked : the machines the 
economical grate-makers call roasters, are, in plain Eng- 
lish, ovens. 

Count Rumford was certainly an exact economist of fuel, 
when he contrived these things ; and those philosophers Avho 
try all questions " according to Cocker" may vote for baked 
victuals ; but the rational epicure, who has been accustomed 
to enjoy beef well roasted, will soon be convinced that the 

* Small families have not always the convenience of roasting vpith a spit ; a 
remark upon roasting by a string is necessary. Let the cook, before she puts 
her meat down to the fire, pass a strong skewer through each end of the joint : by 
this means, when it is about half-done, slie can with ease turn the bottom upwards ; 
the ffravy will then flow to the part which has been uppermost, and the whole joint 
be deliciously gravyf iil. 

A BOTTLE JACK, as it Is termed by the furnishing ironmongers, is a valuable instru- 
menlfor roasting. 

A Dutch oven is another very convenient utensil for roasting li ht joints, or 
vrarming them up. 



ROASTING. 75 

poet who wrote our national ballad at the end of this chapter, 
was not inspired by Sir Benjamin Thompson's cookery. 

All your attention in roasting Avill be thrown away, if you 
do not take care that your meat, especially beef, has been 
kept long- enough to be tender. See " advice to cooks," 
and obs. to No. 68. 

Make up the fire in time ; let it be proportioned to the din- 
ner to be dressed, and about three or four inches longer at 
each end than the thing to be roasted, or the ends of the meat 
cannot be done nice and brown. 

A cook must be as particular to proportion her fire to the 
business she has to do, as a chemist : the degree of heat 
most desirable for dressing the different sorts of food ought 
to be attended to with the utmost precision. 

The fire that is but just sufficient to receive the noble sir- 
loin (No. 19), will parch up a lighter joint. 

From half an hour to an hour before you begin to roast, 
prepare the fire by putting a few coals on, which will be 
sufficiently lighted by the time you wish to make use of your 
fire ; between the bars, and on the top, put small or large 
coals, according to the bulk of the joint, and the time the fire 
is required to be strong ; after which, throw the cinders 
(wetted) at the back. 

Never put meat down to a burned-up fire, if you can pos- 
sibly avoid it ; but should the fire become fierce, place the 
spit at a considerable distance, and allow a little more time. 

Preserve the fat,* by covering it with paper, for this pur- 
pose called " kitchen-paper," and tie it on with fine twine ; 
pins and skewers can by no means be allowed ; they are so 
many taps to let out the gravy: besides, the paper often 
starts from them and catches fire, to the great injury of the 
meat. 

If the thing to be roasted be thin and tender, the fire should 
be little and brisk : when you have a large joint to roast, 
make up a sound, strong fire, equally good in every part of 
the grate, or your meat cannot be equally roasted, nor have 
that uniform colour which constitutes the beauty of good 
roasting. 

Give the fire a good stirring before you lay the joint 
down ; examine it from time to time while the spit is 
going round ; keep it clear at the bottom, and take care 
there are no smoky coals in the front, which will spoil the 
look and taste of the meat, and hinder it from roasting evenly. 

* If there is more tat than you think will be eaten with the lean, trim it off; it 
will make an escelleat pudding (No. 551 or 554) : or clarify it (No. 83). 



76 ROASTING. 

When the joint to be roasted is tliicker at one end than the 
other, place the spit slanting-, with the thickest part nearest 
the fire. 

Do not put meat too near the fire at first ; the larg-er the 
joint, the farther it must be kept from the fire : if once it gets 
scorched, the outside will become hard, and acquire a dis- 
agreeable, empyreumatic taste ; and the fire being- prevented 
from penetrating into it, the meat will appear done before it 
is little more than half-done, besides losing- the pale brown 
colour, which it is the beauty of roasted meat to have. i 

From 14 to 10 inches is the usual distance at which meat 
is put from the grate, when first put down. It is extremely 
difficult to offer any thing like an accurate general rule for 
this, it depends so much upon the size of the fire, and of that 
of the thing to be roasted. 

Till some culinary philosopher shall invent a theniiometer 
to ascertain the heat of the fire, and a graduated spit-rack to 
regulate the distance from it, the process of roasting is at- 
tended by so many ever-varying circumstances, that it must 
remain among those which can only be performed well, by 
frequent practice and attentive observation. 

If you wish your jack to go well, keep it as clean as pos- 
sible, oil it, and then wipe it : if the oil is not wiped off again 
it will gather dust ; to prevent this, as soon as you have done 
roasting, cover it up. Never leave the winders on while the 
jack is going round, unless you do it, as Swift says, " that 
it may fly off, and knock those troublesome servants on the 
head who will be crowding round your kitchen fire." 

Be very carefid to place the dripping-pan at such a dis- 
tance from the fire as just to catch the drippings : if it is too 
near, the ashes will fall into it, and spoil the drippings* (Avhich 
"we shall hereafter show will occasionally be found an excel- 
lent substitute for butter or lard). To clarify drippings, see 
(No. 83,) and pease and dripping soup (No. 229), savoury and 
salubrious, for only a penny per quart. If it is too far from 
the fire to catch them, you will not only lose your drippings, 
but the meat will be blackened and spoiled by the foetid smoke, 
which will arise when the fat falls on the live cinders. 

A large dripping-pan is convenient for several purposes. 
It should not be less than 2S inches long and 20 inches wide, 
and have a covered well on the side from the fire, to collect 
the drippmgs ; this will preserve them ni tne most delicate 

* This the good housewife will take up occasionally, and pass through a sieve into 
a stone pan ; by leaving it all in the dripping-pan until the ujeal is taken up, it not 
only becomes very strong, but when the meat is rich, and yields much of it, it is apt 
to be spilt in basting. To clarify drippings, see No. 83. 



ROASTING. 77 

State : in a pan of the above size you may set fried fish, and 
various dishes, to keep hot. 

This is one of Painter's and Hawke's contrivances, near 
Norfolk-street, Strand. 

The time meat will take roasting will vary according to 
the time it has been kept, and the temperature of the 
weather ; the same weight* will be twenty minutes or half 
an hour longer in cold weather,! than it will be in warm ; 
and if fresh killed, than if it has been kept till it is tender. 

A good meat-screen is a great saver of fuel. It should 
be on wheels, have a flat top, and not be less than about 
three feet and a half wide, and with shelves in it, about 
one foot deep ; it will then answer all the purposes of a 
large Dutch oven, plate-warmer, hot hearth, &c. Some are 
made wtih a door behind : this is convenient, but the great 
heat they are exposed to soon shrinks the materials, and the 
currents of air through the cracks cannot be prevented, so they 
are better without the door. We have seen one, which had 
on the top of it a very convenient hot closet, which is a great ac- 
quisition in kitchens, where the dinner waits after it is dressed. 

Every body knows the advantage of sIojd boiling. Slow 
roasting is equally important. 

It is difficult to give any specific rule for time ; but if your 
fire is made as before directed, your meat-screen sufficiently 
large to guard what you are dressing from currents of air, and 
the meat is not frosted, you cannot do better than follow 
the old general rule of allowing rather more than a quarter 
of an hour to the pound ; a little more or less, according to 
the temperature of the weather, in proportion as the piece is 
thick or thin, the strength of the fire, the nearness of the 
meat to it, and the frequency with which you baste it ; the 
more it is basted the less time it will take, as it keeps the 
meat soft and mellow on the outside, and the fire acts with 
more force upon it. 

Reckon the time, not to the hour when dinner is ordered, 
but to the moment the roasts will be wanted. Supposing 
there are a dozen people to sip soup and eat fish first, you may 
allow them ten or fifteen minutes for the former, and about 
as long for the latter, more or less, according to the tempta- 
tions the " BON gout" of these preceding courses has to at- 
tract their attention. 



* Insist upon the butcher fixing a ticket of the weight to each joint. 

t If thk meat is frozen, the usual practice is to put it into cold water till it is 
thawed, then dry and roast it as usual ; but we recommend you to bring it into the 
kitchen the night before, or early in the morning of the day you want to roast it, and 
the warm air will thaw it much better. 

G2 



78 ROASTING. 

When the joint is half done, remove the spit and dripping-; 
pan back, and stir up your fire thoroughly, that it may bum 
clear and bright for the browning ; when the steam from the 
meat draws towards the fire,* it is a sign of its being done 
enough ; but you will be the best judge of that, from the time 
it has been down, the strength of the fire you have used, and 
the distance your spit has been from it. 

Half an hour before your meat is done, make some gravy 
(see Receipt.) No. 326) ; and just before you take it up, put it 
nearer the fire to brown it. If you wish to froth it, baste it, 
and dredge it with flour carefully : you cannot do this deli- 
cately nice without a very good light. The common fault 
seems to be using too much flour. The meat should have a 
fine light varnish of froth, not the appearance of being covered 
with a paste. Those who are particular about the froth use 
butter instead of drippings ; (see receipt to roast a turkey, 
No. 57)— 

" And send up wliat you roast with relish-giving froth," 

says Dr. King, and present such an agreeable appearance to 
the eye, that the palate may be prepossessed in its favour at 
first sight ; therefore, have the whole course dished, before 
roasts are taken from the fire. ! 

A good cook is as anxiously attentive to the appearance 
and colour of her roasts, as a court beauty is to her com- 
plexion at a birthday ball. If your meat does not brown so 
miich, or so evenly as you wish, take two ounces of Glaze, 
i. e. portable soup, put four table-spconfuls of water, and let 
it warm and dissolve gradually by the side of the fire. This 
will be done in about a quarter of an hour; put it on the 
meat equally all over with a pasto-bruish the last thins; before 
it goes to table. 

Though roasting is one of the most common, and is gene- 
rally considered one of the most easy and simple processes 
of cookery, it requires more unremitting attention to perform 
it perfectly well than it does to make most made-dishes. 

That made-dishes are the most difficult preparations, de- 
serves to be reckoned among the culinary vulgar errors ; in 
plain roasting and boiling it is not easy to repair a mistake 
once made ; and all the discretion and attention of a steady, 
careful cook, must be unremittingly upon the alert.f 

* When the steam begins to arise, it is a proof that the whole joint is thoroughly 
saturated with heat ; any unnecessary evaporation is a waste of the best nourish- 
ment of the meat. 
t A celebrated French writer has given us the following observations on roasting :— 
" The art of roasting victuals to the precise degree, is one of the most difficult in 
this world; and you may jLnd half a thousand good cooks sooner than one perfett 



ROASTING. 79 

A dilig-ent attention to time, the distance of the meat from, 
and judicious management of, the fire, and frequent bastings,* 
are all the general rules we can prescribe. We shall deliver 
particular rules for particular things, as the several axticles 
occur, and do our utmost endeavours to instruct our reader 
as completely as words can describe the process, and teach 

" The management of common things so well, 
That what was thought the meanest shall excel : 
That cook 's to British palates most complete, 
Whose sav'ry skill gives zest to common meat: 
For what are soups, your ragouts, and your sauce, 
Compared to the fare of old England, 
And OLD English roast beef 1" 

* Take notice, that the time given in the following re- 
ceipts is calculated for those who like meat thoroughly 
roasted. {See N.B. preceding No. 19.) 
Some good housewives order very large joints to be rather 
under-done, as they then make a better hash or broil. 
To make gravy for roast, see No. 326. 
N.B. Roasts must not be put on, till the soup aiid^s^ are 
taken off the table. 

roaster. (See ' Mmanach des Gourmands,'' vol. 1. p. 37.) In the mansions of the 
opulent, they have, besides the master kitchener, a roaster, (perfectly independent 
of the former,) who Is exclusively devoted to the spit. 

" All erudite gourmands know that these two important functions cannot be per-' 
formed by one artist ; it is quite impossible at Uie same time to superintend the ope-' 
rations of the spit and stewpan." — Further on, the same author observes: "No 
certain rules can be given for roasting, the perfection of it depending on many cir- 
cumstances which are continually changing ; the age and size (especially the thick- 
ness) of the pieces, the quality of the coals^ the temperature of the atmosphere, the 
currents of air in the kitchen, the more or less attention of the roaster ; and, lastly, 
the time of serving. Supposing the dinner ordered to be on table at a certain time, if 
the fish and soup are much liked, and detained longer than the roaster has calcu- 
lated ; or, on the contrary, if they are despatched sooner than is expected, the roasts 
will in one case be burnt up, in the other not done enough — two misfortunes equally 
to be deplored. 'I'he first, however, is without a remedy ; five minutes on the spitj 
more or less, decides the goodness of t/Us mode of cookery. It is almost impossible 
to seize the orecise instant when it ought to be eaten ; which epicures in roasts 
express by s ing, ^ It is done to a turn.'' So that there is no exaggeration in saying, 
the perfect n .ter is even more rare than the professed cook. 

"In small i nilies, where the cook is also the roaster, it is almost impossible the 
roasts should L well done : the spit claims exclusive attention, and is an imperious 
mistress who demands the entire devotion of her slave. But how can this be, whea 
the cook is obliged, at the same time, to attend her fish and soup-kettles, and watch 
her stewpans and all their accompaniments 1 — it is morally and physically impos- 
sible : if she gives that delicate and constant attention to the roasts which is indis- 
pensably requisite, the rest of the dinner must often be spoiled; and most cooks 
would rather lose their character as a roaster, than neglect the made-dishes and 
* entremets,' &c., where they think they can display their culinary science, — than 
sacrifice these to the roasts, the perfection of which will only prove their steady 
vigilance and patience." 

* Our ancestors were very particular in their bastings and dredgings, as will 
be seen by the following quotation from May's " Accomplished Cook," London, 1665, 
p. 136. " The rarest ways of dressing of all manner of roast meats, either flesh or 
fowl, by sea or land, and divers ways of breading or dredging meats to prevent the 
gravy from too much evaporating." 



80 FRYING. 

DRSDGINGS. 

1. Flour mixed with grated bread. 

2. Sweet herbs dried and powdered, and mixed with grated bread. 

3. Lemon-peel dried and pounded, or orange-peel, mixed with flour. 

4. Sugar finely powdered, and mixed with pounded cinnamon, and flour or grated 
bread. 

5. Fennel-seeds, corianders, cinnamon, and sugar, finely beaten, and mixed with 
grated bread or flour. 

6. For young pigs, grated bread or flour, mixed with beaten nutmeg, ginger, 
pepper, sugar, and yelks of eggs. 

7. Sugar, bread, and salt, mixed. 

BASTINGS. 

(1. Fresh butter. 

2. Clarified suet. 

3. Minced sweet herbs, butter, and claret, especially for mutton and lamb. 

4. Water and salt. 

5. Cream and melted butter, especially for a flayed pig. 
6 Yelks of eggs, grated biscuit, and juice of oranges. 



CHAPTER III. 

FRYING. 

Frying is often a convenient mode of cookery ; it may be 
performed by a fire which will not do for roasting- or boiling; 
and by the introduction of the pan between the meat and the 
fire, things get more equally dressed. 

The Dutch oven or bonnet is another very convenient 
utensil for small things, and a very useful substitute for the 
jack, the gridiron, or frying-pan. 1 

A frying-pan should be about four inches deep, with a 
perfectly flat and thick bottom, 12 inches long and 9 
broad, with perpendicular sides, and must be half filled with 
fat : good frying is, in fact, boiling in fat. To make sure that 
the pan is quite clean, rub a little fat over it, and then make 
it warm, and wipe it out with a clean cloth. 

Be very particular in frying, never to use any oil, butter, 
lard, or drippings, but what is quite clean, fresh, and 
free from salt. Any thing- dirty spoils the look ; any thing 
bad-tasted or stale, spoils the flavour ; and salt prevents its 
browning. 

Fine olive oil is the most delicate for frying ; but the best 
oil is expensive, and bad oil spoils every thing that is dressed 
with it. 

For general purposes, and especially for fish, clean fresh 



FRYING. Bi 

I 

lard is not near so expensive as oil or clarified butter, and 
does almost as well. Butter often burns before you are 
aware of it; and what you fry will get a dark and dirty 
appearance. 

Cooks in large kitchens, where there is a great deal of 
frying, commonly use mutton or beef suet clarified (see No. 
84) : if from the kidney, all the better. i 

Dripping, if nicely clean and fresh, is almost as good as 
any thing ; if not clean, it may be easily clarified (see No. 
83). Whatever fat you use, after you have done frying, let 
it remain in the pan for a few minutes, and then pour it 
through a sieve into a clean basin ; it will do three or four 
times as well as it did at first, i. e. if it has not burned: but, 
Mem. the fat you have fried fish in must not be used for any 
other purpose. 

To know when the fat is of a proper heat, according to 
what you are to fry, is the great secret in frying. 

To fry fish, parsley, potatoes, or any thing that is watery, 
your fire must be very clear, and the fat quite hot ; which you 
may be pretty sure of, when it has done hissing, and is still. 
We cannot insist too strongly on this point : if the fat is not 
very hot, you cannot fry fish either to a good colour, or firm 
and crisp. , 

To be quite certain, throw a little bit of bread into the pan; 
if it fries crisp, the fat is ready ; if it burns the bread, it is 
too hot. 

The fire under the pan must be clear and sharp, otherwise 
the fat is so long before it becomes ready, and demands such 
attendance to prevent the accident of its catching fire,* that 
the patience of cooks is exhausted, and they frequently, from 
ignorance or impatience, throw in what they are going to fry 
before the fat is half hot enough. Whatever is so fried will 
be pale and sodden, and offend the palate and stomach not 
less than the eye. 

Have a good light to fry by, that you may see when you 
have got the right colour : a lamp fixed on a stem, with a 
loaded foot, which has an arm that lengthens out, and slides 
up and down like a reading candlestick, is a most useful 
appendage to kitchen fireplaces, which are very seldom light 
enough for the nicer operations of cookery. 

After all, if you do not thoroughly drain the fat from what 

* If this unfortunately happens, be not alarmed, but immediately wet a basket of 
ashes and throw them down the chimney, and wet a blanket and hold it close all 
round the fireplace; as soon as the current of air is stopped, the fire will be extin- 
guished : with a charcoal stove there is no danger, as the diameter of the pan 
exceeds that of the fire. 



82 BROILING. 

you have fried, especially from those things that are full 
dressed in bread crumbs,* or biscuit powder, &c., your cook- 
ing- will do you no credit. 

The dryness of fish depends much upon its having been 
fried in fat of a due degree of heat ; it is then crisp and dry 
in a few minutes after it is taken out of the pan : when it is 
not, lay it on a soft cloth before the fire, turning it occasion- 
ally, till it is. This will sometimes take 15 minutes : therefore, 
always fry fish as long as this before you want them, for fear 
you may find this necessary. 

To fry fish, see receipt to fry soles, (No. 145") which is the 
only circumstantial account of the process that has yet been 
printed. If the cook will study it with a little attention, she 
must soon become an accomplished frier. 

Frying, though one of the most common of culinary 
operations, is one that is least commonly performed per- 
fectly well. 



CHAPTER IV. 

BROILING. 

And as now there is nought on the fire that is spoiling, 

We 'II give you just two or three hints upon broiling ; 

How oft you must turn a beefsteak, and how seldom 

A good mutton chop, for to have 'em both well done ; 

And for skill in such cookery your credit 't will fetch up, 

If your broils are well-seasoned with good mushroom catchup." 

Cleanliness is extremely essential in this mode of 
cookery. 

Keep your gridiron quite clean between the bars, and 
bright on the top: when it is hot, wipe it well with a 
linen cloth : just before you use it, rub the bars with clean 
mutton-suet, to prevent the meat from being marked by the 
gridiron. 

Take care to prepare your fire in time, so that it may burn 
quite clear : a brisk and clear fire is indispensable, or you 
cannot give your meat that browning which constitutes the 

* When you want a great many bread crumbs, divide your loaf (which should 
be two days old) into three equal parts ; take the middle or crumb piece, the top and 
bottom will do for table : in the usual way of cutting, the crust is wasted. 

Oatmkal is a very satisfactory, and an extremely economical substitute for bread 
crumbs. See No. 145. 



VEGETABLES. 83 

perfection of this mode of cookery, and gives a relish to food 
it cannot receive any other way. 

The chops or slices should be from half to three-quarters 
of an inch in thickness ; if thicker, they will be done too 
much on the outside before the inside is done enough. 

Be diligently attentive to watch the moment that any thing 
is done : never hasten any thing that is broiling, lest you 
make smoke and spoil it. 

Let the bars of the gridiron be all hot through, but yet not 
burning hot upon the surface : this is the perfect and fine 
condition of the gridiron. 

As the bars keep away as much heat as their breadth 
covers, it is absolutely necessary they should be thoroughly 
hot before the thing to be cooked be laid on them. 

The bars of gridirons should be made concave, and termi- 
nate in a trough to catch the gravy and keep the fat from 
dropping into the fire and making a smoke, which will spoil 
the broil. 

Upright gridirons are the best, as they can be used at any 
fire without fear of smoke ; and the gi-avy is presei'ved in the 
trough under them. 

N.B. Broils must be brought to table as hot as possible ; 
set a dish to heat when you put your chops on the gridiron, 
from whence to the mouth their progress must be as quick 
as possible. 

When the fire is not clear, the business of the gridiron 
may be done by the Dutch oven or bomiet. 



CHAPTER V. 

VEGETABLES. 

There is nothing in which the difference between an 
elegant and an ordinary table is more seen than in the dressing 
of vegetables, more especially gi-eens. They may be equally 
as fine at first, at one place as at another ; but their look and 
taste are afterward very different, entirely from the careless 
way in which they have been cooked. 

They are in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty, 
t. e. when in full season. 

By season, I do not mean those early days, that luxury in 
the buyers, and avarice in the sellers, force the various vege- 



84 VEGETABLES. 

tables ; but that time of the year in which by nature and 
common culture, and the mere operation of the sun and cli- 
mate, they are in most plenty and perfection. 

Potatoes and pease are seldom worth eating before midsum- 
mer ; unripe vegetables are as insipid and unwholesome as 
unripe fruits. 

! As to the quality of vegetables, the middle size are pre- 
ferred to the largest or the smallest ; they are more tender, 
juicy, and full of flavour, just before they are quite full- 
grown. Freshness is their chief value and excellence, and I 
should as soon think of roasting an animal alive, as of boiling 
a vegetable after it is dead. 

The eye easily discovers if they have been kept too long ; 
they soon lose their beauty in all respects. 

Roots, greens, salads, &c. and the various productions of 
the garden, when first gathered, are plump and firm, and have 
a fragrant freshness no art can give them again, when they 
have lost it by long keeping ; though it will refresh them a 
little to put them into cold spring water for some time before 
they are dressed. 

' To boil them in soft water will preserve the colour best 
of such as are green ; if you have only hard water, put to it 
a tea-spoonful of carbonate of potash * * 

Take care to wash and cleanse them thoroughly from dust, 
dirt, and insects : this requires gi'eat attention. Pick off all 
the outside leaves, trim them nicely, and, if not quite fresh 
gathered and have become flaccid, it is absolutely necessary 
to restore their crispness before cooking them, or they will 
be tough and unpleasant : lay them in a pan of clean water, 
with a handful of salt in it, for an hour before you dress them. 

" Most vegetables being more or less succulent, their full 
proportion of fluids is necessary for their retaining that state 
of crispness and plumpness which they have when growing. 
On being cut or gathered, the exhalation from their surface 
continues, while, from the open vessels of the cut surface, 
there is often great exudation or evaporation ; and thus their 
natural moisture is diminished, the tender leaves become 
flaccid, and the thicker masses or roots lose their plumpness. 
This is not only less pleasant to the eye, but is a real injury 
to the nutritious powers of the vegetable ; for in this flaccid 
and shrivelled state its fibres are less easily divided in chew- 
ing, and the water which exists in vegetable substances, in 
the form of their respective natural juices, is directly nutri- 

* Pearlash is a sub- carbonate, and will answer the purpose. It is a commOQ 
article in the kitciien of the American houselseeper. A. 



VEGETABLES. 85* 

tious. The first care in the preservation of succulent vege-' 
tables, therefore, is to prevent them from losing their natural 
moisture." — Suppl. to Edin. Encyclop. vol. iv. p. 335. * 

They should always be boiled in a sauce-pan by them- 
selves, and have plenty of water; if meat is boiled with 
them in the same pot, they will spoil the look and taste of 
each other. 

If you wish to have vegetables delicately clean, put on 
your pot, make it boil, put a little salt in it, and skim it per- 
fectly clean before you put in the greens, &c. ; which should 
not be put in till the water boils briskly : the quicker they 
boil, the greener they will be. When the vegetables sink, 
they are generally done enough, if the water has been kept 
constantly boiling. Take them up immediately, or they 
will lose their colour and goodness. Drain the water from 
them thoroughly before you send them to table. 

This branch of cookery requires the most vigilant attention 

If vegetables are a minute or two too long over the fire, 
they lose all their beauty and flavour. 

If not thoroughly boiled tender, they are tremendously in- 
digestible, and much more troublesome during their residence 
in the stomach, than under-done meats.* i 

To preserve or give colour in cookery, many good dishes 
are spoiled; but the rational epicure who makes nourish- 
ment the main end of eating, will be content to sacrifice the 
shadow to enjoy the substance. Vide 06s. to No. 322. 

Once for all, take care your vegetables are fresh : for as 
the fishmonger often suffers for the sins of the cook, so the 
cook often gets mideservedly blamed instead of the green- 
grocer. ■ 

Vegetables, in this metropolis, are often kept so long, that 
no art can make them either look or eat well. 

Strong-scented vegetables should be kept apart ; leeks, or 
celery, laid among cauliflowers, &c. will quickly spoil them. 

" Succulent vegetables are best preserved in a cool, shady, 
and damp place. 

" Potatoes, turnips, carrots, and similar roots, intended to 
be stored up, should never be cleaned from the earth adhe- 
ring to them, till they are to be dressed. 

" They must be protected from the action of the air and 

* " Cauliflowers and other vegetables are often boiled only crisp to preserve 
their beauty. For the look alone they had better not be boiled at all, and almost as 
well for the use, as in this crude state they are scarcely digestible by the strongest 
stomach. On the other hand, when over-boiled, they become vapid, and in a state 
similar to decay, in which they afford no sweet purifying juices to the body, but load 
it with a mass of mere feculent matter." — Domestic Management., 12mo. 1813, 
p. fi9. 

H 



86 FISH. 

frost, by laying- them in heaps, burying them in sand or earth, 
&c., or covering them with straw or mats. 

" The action of frost destroys the life of the vegetable, and 
it speedily rots." — Suppl. to Edin. Encyclop. vol. iv. p. 335. 

Mem. — When vegetables are quite fresh gathered, they 
will not require so much boiling, by at least a third of the 
time, as when they have been gathered the usual time those 
are that are brought to public markets. 



CHAPTER VI. 

FISH. 

This department of the business of the kitchen requires 
considerable experience, and depends more upon practice 
than any other. A very few moments, more or less, will 
thoroughly spoil fish ;* which, to be eaten in perfection, must 
never be put on the table till the soup is taken oif. 

So many circumstances operate on this occasion, that it is 
almost impossible to write general rules. 

There are decidedly different opinions, whether fish should 
be put into cold, tepid, or boiling water. 

We believe, for some of the fame the Dutch cooks have 
acquired, they are a little indebted to their situation affording 
them a plentiful supply of fresh fish for little more than the 
trouble of catching it ; and that the superior excellence of 
the fish in Holland, is because none are used, unless they 
are brought alive into the kitchen (mackerel excepted, which 
die the moment they are taken out of the water). The 
Dutch are as nice about this as Seneca says the Romansf 
were ; who, complaining of the luxury of the times, says, 

* When the cook has large dinners to prepare, and the time of serving uncertain, 
she will get more credit by fried (see No. 145), or stewed (see No. 164), than hy 
BOILED fish. It is also cheaper, anJ much sooner carved (see No. 145). 

Mr. Ude, page 238 of his cookery, advises, " If you are obliged to wait after the 
fish is done, do not let it remain in the water, but keep the water boiling, and put 
the fish over it, and cover it with a damp cloth ; when the dinner is called for, dip 
the fish again in the water, and serve it up." 

The only circumstantial instructions yet printed for frying fish, the reader will 
find in No. 145 ; if this be carefully and nicely attended to, you will have delicious 
food. 

t They had salt-water preserves for feeding different kinds of.sea-fish; those in 
the ponds of Lucullus, at his death, sold for 25,000/. sterling. The prolific power of 
fish is wonderful : the following calculations are from Petit, Block, and Leuwen- 
hoeck :— 



FISH. 87 

" They are come to that daintiness, that they will not eat a 
fish, unless upon the same day that it is taken, that it may 
taste of the sea, as they express it." 

On the Dutch flat coast, the fish are taken with nets : on 
our rocky coast, they are mostly caught by bait and hook, 
which instantly kills them. Fish are brought alive by land 
to the Dutch markets, in water casks with air-holes in the 
top. Salmon, and other fish, are thus preserved in rivers, in 
a well-hole in the fishing-boat. 

All kinds of fish are best some tune before they begin to 
spawn ; and are unfit for food for some time after they have 
spawned. 

Fish, like animals, are fittest for the table when they are 
just full grown ; and what has been said in Chapter V. re- 
specting vegetables, applies equally well to fish. 

The most convenient utensil to boil fish in, is a turbot- 
kettle. This should be 24 inches long, 22 wide, and 9 deep. 
It is an excellent vessel to boil a ham in, &c. &c. 

The good folks of this metropolis are so often disappointed 
by having fish which has been kept too long, that they are 
apt to run into the other extreme, and suppose that fish will 
not dress well unless it is absolutely alive. This is true of 
lobsters, &c. (No. 176), and may be of fresh-water fish, but 
certainly not of some sea-fish. 

Several respectable fishmongers and experienced cooks 
have assured the editor, that they are often in danger of 
losing their credit by fish too fresh, and especially turbot and 
cod, which, like meat, require a certain time before they are 
in the best condition to be dressed. They recommend them 
to be put into cold water, salted in proportion of about a 
quarter of a pound of salt to a gallon of water. Sea-water 
is best to boil sea-fish in. It not only saves the expense of 
salt, but the flavour is better. Let them boil slowly till done ; 
the sign of which is, that the skin of the fish rises up, and 
the eyes turn white. 

It is the business of the fishmonger to clean them, &c. but 
the careful cook will always wash them again. 

Garnish with slices of lemon, finely scraped horseradish, 
fried oysters (No. 183), smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), 
or strips of soles, as directed in No. 145. 



Eggs. 

A salmon of 20 pounds weight contained 27,850 

A middling-sized pike 148,000 

A mackerel 546,681 

A cod 9,344,000 

See Cours Gastronomiqucs, IBrao. 1806, p. 241. 



'88 FISH SAUCES. 

The liver, roe, and chitterlings should be placed so that 
the carver may observe them, and invite the guests to par- 
take of them. 

N.B. Fish, like meat, requires more cooking in cold than 
in warm weather. If it becomes frozen,* it must be thawed 
by the means we have directed for meat, in the 2d chapter 
of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

[Fish are plenty and good, and in great variety, in all the 
towns and cities on the extensive coast of the United States. 
Some of the interior towns are also supplied with fish pecu- 
liar to the lakes and rivers of this comitry. A.] 

FISH SAUCES. 

The melted butter (No. 256) for fish, should be thick enough 
to adhere to the fish, and, therefore, must be of the thickness 
of light batter, as it is to be diluted with essence of anchovy 
(No. 433), soy (No. 436), mushroom catchup (No. 439), 
Cayenne (No. 404), or Chili vinegar (No. 405), lemons or 
lemon-juice, or artificial lemon-juice, (see No. 407*), &c. 
which are expected at all well-served tables. 

Cooks, who are jealous of the reputation of their taste, 
and housekeepers who value their health, will prepare these 
articles at home : there are quite as many reasons why they 
should, as there are for the preference usually given to home- 
baked bread and home-brewed beer, &c. 

N.B. The liver of the fish pounded and mixed with but- 
ter, with a little lemon-juice, &c. is an elegant and inoflfensive 
relish to fish (see No. 288). Mushroom sauce extempore 
(No. 307), or the soup of mock turtle (No. 247), will make 
an excellent fish sauce. 

On the comparatively nutritive qualities of fish, see N.B. 
to No. 181. 

* Fish are very frequently sent home frozen by the fishmonger, to whom an ice- 
bouse is now as necessary an appendage (to preserve fish,) as it is to a confectioner 



SROTHS AND SOUPS. 89 



CHAPTER VII. 

BROTHS AND SOUPS. 

The cook must pay continual attention to the condition of 
her stew-pans* and soup-kettles, &c. which should be exa- 
mined every time they are used. The prudent housewife 
will carefully examine the condition of them herself at least 
once a month. Their covers also must be kept perfectly 
clean and Avell timied, and the stew-pans not only on the 
inside, but about a couple of inches on the outside : many 
mischiefs arise from their getting out of repair ; and if not 
kept nicely tinned, all your good work will be in vain ; the 
broths and soups will look green and dirty, taste bitter and 
poisonous, and will be spoiled both for the eye and palate, 
and your credit will be lost. 

The health, and even life of the family, depends upon this, 
and the cook may be sure her employers had rather pay the 
tinman's bill than the doctor's ; therefore, attention to this 
cannot fail to engage the regard of the mistress, between 
whom and the cook it will be my utmost endeavour to pro- 
mote perfect harmony. 

If a servant has the misfortune to scorch or blister the tin- 
ning of her pan,t which will happen sometimes to the most 
careful cook, I advise her, by all means, immediately to ac- 
quaint her employers, who will thank her for candidly men- 
tioning an accident ; and censure her deservedly if she con- 
ceal it. 

I Take care to be properly provided with sieves and tammy 
cloths, spoons and ladles. Make it a rule without an exception, 
never to use them till they are well cleaned and thoroughly 
dried, nor any stewpans, &c. without first washing them out 
with boiling water, and rubbing them well with a diy cloth 
and a little bran, to clean them from grease, sand, &c., or 
any bad smell they may have got since they were last used : 
never neglect this. 

Though we do not suppose our cook to be such a naughty 

* We prefer the form of a stew-pan to the soup- pot ; the former is more convenient 
to skim: the most useful size is 12 inches diameter by 6 inches deep: thia we would 
have of silver, or iron, or copper, lined (not plated) with silver. 

t This may be always avoided by browning your meat in the frying-pan ; it is the 
browning of the meat that destroys the stew-pan. 

H2 



90 BROTHS AND SOUPS. 

slut as to wilfully neglect her broth-pots, &c., yet we may 
recommend her to wash them immediately, and take care 
they are thoroughly dried at the fire, before they are put by, 
and to keep them in a dry place, for damp will rust and de- 
stroy them very soon : attend to this the first moment you 
can spare after the dinner is sent up. 

Never put by any soup, gravy, &c. in metal utensils ; in 
which never keep any thing longer than is absolutely neces- 
sary for the purposes of cookery; the acid, vegetables, fat, 
&c. employed in making soups, &c. are capable of dissolving 
such utensils ; therefore stone or earthen vessels should be 
used for this purpose. 

Stew-pans, soup-pots, and preserving pans, with thick and 
round bottoms (such as sauce-pans are made with), will wear 
twice as long, and are cleaned with half the trouble, as those 
whose sides are soldered to the bottom, of which sand and 
grease get into the joined part, and cookeys say that it is 
next to an impossibility to dislodge it, even if their nails are 
as long as Nebuchadnezzar's. The Editor claims the credit 
of having first suggested the importance of this construction 
of these utensils. 

Take care that the lids fit as close as possible, that the 
broth, soup, and sauces, &c. may not waste by evaporation. 
They are good for nothing, unless they fit tight enough to 
keep the steam in and the smoke out. 

Stew-pans and sauce-pans should be always bright on the 
upper rim, where the fire does not burn them ; but to scour 
them all over is not only giving the cook needless trouble, 
but wearing out the vessels. See observations on sauce- 
pans in Chapter I. 

Cultivate habits of regularity and cleanliness, &c. in all 
your business, which you will tlicn get throug-h easily and 
comfortably. I do not mean the restless spirit of Molidusta, 
" the Tidy One,'''* who is anon, anon. Sir, frisking about in a 
whirlpool of bustle and confusion, and is always dirty, under 
pretence of being always cleaning. 

Lean, juicy beef, mutton, or veal, fonn the basis of broth; 
procure those pieces which afford the richest succulence, and 
as fresh killed as possible.* 

Stale meat will make broth grouty and bad tasted, and fat 
meat is wasted. This only applies to those broths which are 
required to be perfectly clear : we shall show hereafter (in 

* In general, it has been considered the best economy to use the cheapest and most 
inferior meats for soup, &c., and to boil it down till it is entirely destroyed, and 
hardly worth putting into the hog- tub. This is a false frucality : buy good pieceaof 
meat, and only stew them till they are done enough to be eaten. 



BROTHS AND SOUPS. 91 

No. 229), that fat and clarified drippings may be so combined 
with vegetable mucilage, as to afford, at the small cost of one 
penny per quart, a nourishing and palatable soup, fully ade- 
quate to satisfy appetite and support strength : this will open 
a new source to those benevolent housekeepers, who are 
disposed to relieve the poor, will show the industrious classes 
how much they have it in their power to assist themselves, 
and rescue them from being objects of charity dependent on 
the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they 
may obtain a cheap, abundant, salubrious, and agreeable ali- 
ment for themselves and families. 

This soup has the advantage of being very easily and very 
soon made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm a 
room. Those who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what 
a salubrious, savoury, and satisfying meal is produced by the 
judicious combination of cheap homely ingredients. 

Scotch barley broth (No. 204) will furnish a good dinner 
of soup and meat for fivepence per head, pease soup (No. 
221) will cost only sixpence per quart, ox-tail soup (No. 240) 
or the same portable soup (No. 252), for fivepence per quart, 
and (No. 224) an excellent gravy soup for fourpence half- 
penny per quart, duck-giblet soup (No. 244) for three- 
pence per quart, and fowls' head soup in the same mamier 
for still less (No. 239), will give you a good and plentiful 
dinner for six people for tAvo shillings and twopence. See 
also shin of beef stewed (No. 493), and a-la-niode beef (No. 
502). 

BROTH HERBS, SOUP ROOTS, AND SEASONINGS. 



Scotch barley (No. 204), 

Pearl barley. 

Flour. 

Oatmeal (No. 572). 

Bread. 

Raspings. 

Pease (No. 218). 

Beans. 

Rice (No. 321*). 

Vermicelli. 

Macaroni (No. 513). 



Isinglass. 

Potato mucilage (No. 448), 

Mushrooms* (No. 439). 

Champignons. 

Parsnips (No. 213). 

Can-ots (No. 212). 

Beet-roots. 

Turnips (No. 208). 

Garlic. 

Shallots, (No. 402.) 

Onions.f 



♦ Mushroom catchup, made as No. 439, or No. 440, will answer all the purposes 
of mushrooms in soup or sauce, and no store-room should be without a stock of it. 
t AH cooks agree in this opinion, 
JV*o savoury dish without an onion. 
Sliced onions fried, (see No. 299. and note under No. 517), with some butter and 



92 



Leeks. 

Cucumber.* 

Celery (No. 214). 

Celery seed.! 

Cress-seed,t (No. 397). 

Parsley,! (N.B. to No. 261.) 

Common thyme. J 

Lemon tliyme.| 

Orange thyme.J 

Knotted marjorum| (No. 417). 

Sage.| 

Mint (No. 398). 

Winter savoury.t 

Sweet basil+ (No. 397). 

Bay leaves. 

Tomata. 



BROTHS AND SOUPS. 



Tarragon (No. 396). 
Chervil. 

Burnet (No. 399). 
Allspice^ (No. 412). 
Cinnamon^ (No. 416*). 
Ginger^ fNo. 411). 
Nutmeg.^ 
Clove (No. 414). 
Mace. 

Black pepper. 

Lemon-peel (No. 407 & 408.) 
White pepper. 
Lemon-juice. II 
Seville orange-juice.F 
Essence of anchovy (No. 
433). 



flour, till they are browned (and rubbed through a sieve), are excellent to heighten 
the colour and flavour of brown soups and sauces, and form the basis of most of the 
relishes furnished by the " Restaurateurs^^ — as we guess from the odour which 
ascends from their liitchens, and salutes our olfactory nerves " en passant.^' 

The older and drier the onion, the stronger its flavour ; and the cook will regulate 
the quantity she uses accordingly. 

* Burnet has exactly the Scime flavour as cucumber. See Burnet vinegar 
(No. 399). 

\ The concentration of flavour in cklkrv and cress seed is such, that half a 
drachm of it {finely pounded), or double the quantity if not ground or pounded, 
costing only one-third of a farthing; will impregnate half a gallon of soup withf 
almost as much relish as two or three heads of the fresh vegetable, weighing 
seven ounces, and costinp twopence. This valuable acquisition to the eoup-pot 
deserves to be universally known. See also No. 409, essence of CELERy. This is 
the most frugal relish we have to introduce to the economist : but that our judg- 
ment in palates may not be called in question by our fellow-mortals, who, as the 
Craniologists say, happen to have the organ of taste stronger than the organ of ac- 
cumulativeness, we must confess, that, with the flavour it does not impart the deli- 
cate sweetness, &c. of the fresh vegetable ; and when used, a bit of sugar should 
accompany it. 

% See No. 419, No. 420, and No. 459. Fresh green basil is seldom to be procured. 
When dried, much of its fine flavour is lost, which is fully extracted by pouring 
wine on the fresh leaves (see No. 397). 

To procure and preserve the flavour of sweet and savoury herbs, celery, &c. 
these must be dried, &.c. at home (see No. 417* and No. 461). 

^ See No. 421 and No. 457. Sir Hans Sloane, in the Phil. Trans. Abr. vol. xi. p. 
667, says, " Pimento, the spice of Jamaica, or allspice, so called, from having a 
flavour composed as it were of cloves, cinnamon, nutmegs, and pepper, may de- 
servedly be counted the best and most temperate, mild, and innocent of common 
spices, almost all of which it far surpasses, by promoting the digestion of meat, and 
moderately heating and strengthening the stomach, and doing those friendly offices 
to the bowels, we generally expect from spices." We have always been of the 
same opinion as Sir Hans, and believe the only reason why it is the least esteemed 
spice is, because it is the cheapest. " What folks get easy they never enjoy." 

II If you have not fresh orange or lemon-juice, or Coxwell's crystallized lemon 
acid, the artificial lemon juice (No. 407) is a good substitute for it. 

IT The juice of the Seville orange is to be preferred to that of the lemon, Um 
flavour is finer, and the acid milder 



BKOTHS AND SOUPS. 93 

xhe above materials, wine, and mushroom catchup (No. 
439), combined in various proportions, will make an endless 
variety* of excellent broths and soups, quite as pleasant to 
the palate, and as useful and agreeable to the stomach, as 
consuming pheasants and partridges, and the long list of 
inflammatory, piquante, and rare and costly articles, recom- 
mended by former cookery-book makers, whose elaborately 
compounded soups are like their made dishes ; in which, 
though variety is aimed at, every thing has the same taste, 
and nothing its own. 

The general fault of our soups seems to be the employ- 
ment of an excess of spice, and too small a portion of roots 
and herbs. t 

Besides the ingredients I have enumerated, many culinary 
scribes indiscriminately cram into almost every dish (in such 
inordinate quantities, one would suppose they were working 
for the asbestos palate of an Indian fire-eater) anchovies, 
garlic,| bay-leaves, and that hot, fiery spice, Cayenne^ pepper; 
this, which the French call (not undeservedly) piment enragS 
(No. 404), has, somehow or other, unaccountably acquired a 
character for being very wholesome ; while the milder 
peppers and spices are cried down, as destroying the sensi- 
bility of the palate and stomach, &c., and being the source 
of a thousand mischiefs. We should just as soon recommend 
alcohol as being less intoxicating than wine. 

The best thing that has been said in praise of peppers is, 
" that with all kinds of vegetables, as also with soups (espe- 
cially vegetable soups) and fish, either black or Cayenne 
pepper may be taken freely : they are the most useful stimu- 
lants to old stomachs, and often supersede the cravings for 

* The erudite editor of the " Mmanach des Gourmands,'''' vol. ii. p. 30, tells US, 
that ten folio volumes would not contain the receipts of all the soups that have been 
invented in that grand school of good eating, — the Parisian kitchen. 

t " Point de Legumes, point de Cuisiniire,"' is a favourite culinary adage of the 
French kitchen, and deserves to be so : a better soup may be made with a couple of 
pounds of meat and plenty of vegetables, than our common cooks will make you 
with four times that quantity of meat; all for want of knowing the uses of soup 
roots, and sweet and savoury herbs. 

X Many a good dish is spoiled, by the cook not knowing the proper use of this, 
which is to give a tlavonr, and not to be predominant over the other ingredients: a 
morsel mashed with the point of a knife, and stirred in, is enough. See No. 402. 

^ Forei'jners have strange notions of English taste, on which one of their culinary 
professors has made the followins comment: " the organ of taste in these islanders 
is very different from our delicate p,ilates ; and sauce that would excoiiate the 
palate of a Frenchman, would be hardly piquante enough to make any nnoression 
on that of an Englishman ; thus they prefer port to claret," &c. As far as cnncema 
ourdrinkins. we wish there was not quite so much truth in Monsieur^s 'emarks 
but tne cnaracterisiicof the French and English kitchen is sauce without substayicCi 
and substance without sav.ce. 

To make Cayenne of English chillies, of infiaitelv finer flavour than the Indian, 
see No. 404. 



94 BROTHS AND SOUPS. 

strong drinks ; or diminish the quantity otherwise required." 
See Sir A. Carlisle on Old Age, London, 1817. A certain 
portion of condiment is occasionally serviceable to excite 
and keep up the languid action of feeble and advanced life : 
we must increase the stimulus of our aliment as the inirrita- 
bility of our system increases. We leave those who love 
these things to use them as they like ; their flavours can be 
very extemporaneously produced by chilly-juice, or essence 
of Cayenne (No. 405), eshallot wine (No. 402), and essence 
of anchovy (No. 433). 

There is no French dinner without soup, which is regarded 
as an indispensable overture; it is commonly followed by 
*' le coup d'Apres,'''' a glass of pure wine, which they consider 
so wholesome after soup, that their proverb says, the phy 
sician thereby loses a fee. Whether the glass of wine be so 
much more advantageous for the patient than- it is for his 
doctor, we know not, but believe it an excellent plan to 
begin the banquet with a basin of good soup, which, by 
moderating the appetite for solid animal food, is certainly a 
salutiferous custom. Between the roasts and the entremets 
they introduce " le coup du Milieu''^ or a small glass of Ja- 
maica rum, or essence of punch (see No. 471), or Curacao 
(No. 474). 

The introduction of liqueurs is by no means a modem 
custom : our ancestors were very fond of a highly spiced 
stimulus of this sort, commonly called Ipocrasse, which 
generally made a part of the last course, or was taken imme- 
diately after dinner. 

7%e crajie to make ypocras. 

" Take a quarte of red wyne, an ounce of synamon, and 
halfe an ounce of gynger ; a quarter of an ounce of greynes 
(probably of paradise) and long pepper, and halfe a pounde 
of sugar; and brose [bruise) all this (not too small), and then 
put them in a bage (bag) of wuUen clothe, made, therefore, 
with the wynee ; and lete it hange over a vessel, till 
the wynee be run thorowe." — An extract from Arnold's 
Chronicle. 

It is a custom which almost universally prevails in the 
northern parts of Europe, to present a dram or glass of 
liqueur, before sitting down to dinner: this answers the 
double purpose of a whet to the appetite, and an announce- 
ment that dinner is on the point of being served up. Along 
with the dram, are presented on a waiter, little square pieces 



BROTHS AND SOUPS. 95 

of cheese, slices of cold tongue, dried tongue, and dried 
toast, accompanied with fresh caviar. 

We again caution the cook to avoid over-seasoning, espe- 
cially with predominant flavours, which, however agreeable 
they may be to some, are extremely disagreeable to others. 
See page 50. 

'. Zest (No. 255), soy (No. 436), cavice, coratch, anchovy 
(No. 433), curry powder (No. 455), savoury ragout powder 
(No. 457), soup herb powder (No. 459 and 460), browning 
(No. 322), catchups (No. 432), pickle liquor, beer, wine, and 
sweet herbs, and savoury spice (No. 460), are very convenient 
auxiliaries to finish soups, &c. 

The proportion of wine (formerly sack, then claret, now 
Madeira or port) should not exceed a large wine-glassful to 
a quart of soup. This is as much as can be admitted, Avithout 
the vinous flavour becoming remarkably predominant ; though 
not only much larger quantities of wine (of which claret is 
incomparably the best, because it contains less spirit and 
more flavour, and English palates are less acquainted with 
it), but even veritable eau de vie is ordered in many books, 
and used by many (especially tavern cooks). So much are 
their soups overloaded with relish, that if you will eat enough 
of them they will certainly make you drunk, if they don't 
make you sick : all this frequently arises from an old cook 
measuring the excitability of the eater's palates by his own, 
which may be so blunted by incessant tasting, that to awaken 
it, requires wine instead of water, and Cayenne and garlic 
for black pepper and onion. \ 

Old cooks are as fond of spice, as children are of sugar, 
and season soup, which is intended to constitute a principal 
part of a meal, as highly as sauce, of which only a spoonful 
may be relish enough for a plate of insipid viands. (See 
obs. to No. 355.) However, we fancy these large quantities 
of wine, &c. are oftener ordered in cookery books than used 
in the kitchen ; practical cooks have the health of their 
employers too much at heart, and love " sauce a la langue''"' too 
well to overwine their soup, &c. 

Truffles and morels* are also set down as a part of most 
receipts. These, in their green state, have a very rich high 
flavour, and are delicious additions to some dishes, or sent 
up as a stew by themselves when they are fresh and fine ; 
but in this state they are not serv^ed up half a dozen times 
in a year at the first tables in the kingdom : when dried 
they become mere " chips in pottage,^'* and serve only to 

* We tried to make catchup of these by treating them like mushrooms (No. 439), 
but did not succeed. 



96 BROTHS AND SOUPS. 

soak up good gravy, from which they take more taste than 
they give. 

The art of composing a rich soup is so to proportion the 
several ingredients one to another, that no particular taste 
be stronger than the rest, but to produce such a fine harmo- 
nious relish that the whole is delightful This requires that 
judicious combination of the materials which constitutes the 
" chef rf'cEirore" of culinary science. . 

In the first place, take care that the roots and herbs be 
perfectly well cleaned ; proportion the water to the quantity 
of meat and other ingredients, generally a pound of meat 
to a quart of water for soups, and double that quantity 
for gravies. If they stew gently, little more water need 
be put in at first than is expected at the end ; for when the 
pot is covered quite close, and the fire gentle, very little is 
wasted. 

Gentle stewing is incomparably the best ; the meat is more 
tender, and the soup better flavoured. 

It is of the first importance that the cover of a soup-kettle 
should fit very close, or the broth will evaporate before you 
are aware of it. The most essential parts are soon evapo- 
rated by quick boiling, without any benefit, except to fatten 
the fortunate cook who inhales them. An evident proof 
that these exhalations* possess the most restorative qualities 
is, that THE COOK, who is in general the least eater, is, as 
generally, the fattest person in the family, from continually 
being surrounded by the quintessence of all the food 
she dresses ; whereof she sends to her master only the 
fibres and calcinations, who is consequently thin, gouty, and 
the victim of diseases arising from insufficient nourishment. 

It is not only the Jihres of the meat which nourish us, but 
the juices they contain, and these are not only extracted but 
exhaled, if it be boiled fast in an open vessel. A succulent 
soup can never be made but in a well-closed vessel, which 
preserves the nutritive parts by preventing their dissipation. 
This is a fact of which every intelligent person will soon 
perceive the importance. 

Place your soup-pot over a moderate fire, which will make 

* " A poor man, being very hungry, staid so long in a cook's shop, who was dishing 
up meat, that his stomach was satisfied with only the smell thereof. The choleric 
cook demanded of him to pay for his breakfast ; the poor man denied having had 
any, and the controversy was referred to the deciding of the next man that should 
pass by, who chanced to be the most notorious idiot in llie whole city : he, on the 
relation of the matter, determined that the poor man's money should be put between 
two empty dishes, and the cook should be recompensed with the jingUng of the poor 
man's money, as he was satisfied with the smell of the cook's meat." This ia 
afiirmed by credible writers as no fable, but an undoubted truth. — Fuller's Holy 
State, lib. iii. c. 12, p. 20. 



BROTHS AND SOUPS. 97 

the water hot without causing- it to boil for at least half an 
hour ; if the water boils immediaiely, it will not penetrate 
the meat, and cleanse it from the clotted blood, and other 
matters which ought to go off in scum ; the meat will be 
hardened all over by violent heat ; will shrink up as if it was 
scorched, and give hardly any gravy : on the contrary, by 
keeping- the water a certain time heating without boiling, the 
meat swells, becomes tender, its fibres are dilated, and it 
yields a quantity of scum, which must be taken off as soon 
as it appears. 

It is not till after a good half hour's hot infusion that we 
may mend the fire, and make the pot boil : still continue to 
remove the scum; and when no more appears, put in the 
vegetables, &c. and a little salt. These will cause more 
scu7n to rise, which must be taken off immediately ; then 
cover the pot very closely, and place it at a proper distance 
from the fire, where it will boil very gently, and equally, and 
by no means fast. 

By quick and strong boiling the volatile and finest parts of 
the ingredients are evaporated, and fly off with the steam, 
and the coarser parts are rendered soluble ; so you lose the 
good, and get the bad. 

Soups will generally take from thr^e to six hours. 

Prepare your broths and soups the evening before you 
want them. This will give you more time to attend to the 
rest of your dinner the next day ; and when the soup is cold, 
the Jat may be much more easily and completely removed 
from the surface of it. When you decant it, take care not to 
disturb the settlings at the bottom of the vessel, which are so 
fine that they will escape through a sieve, or even through a 
TAMis, which is the best strainer, the soups appear smoother 
and finer, and it is much easier cleaned than any sieve. If 
you strain it while it is hot, pass it through a clean tamis or 
napkin, previously soaked in cold water; the coldness of 
this will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure broth to 
pass through. 

The full flavour of the ingredients can only be extracted 
by very long and slow simmering ; during which take care 
to prevent evaporation, by covering the pot as close as pos- 
sible : the best stew-pot is a digester. 

> Clear soups must be perfectly transparent ; thickened 
soups, about the consistence of rich cream ; and remember 
that thickened soups require nearly double the quantity of 
seasoning. The piquance of spice, &c. is as much blunted 
by the flour and butter, as the spirit of rum is by the addition 
of sugar and acid : so they are less salubrious, without being 



98 BROTHS AND SOUrS. 

more savoury, from the additional quantity of spice, &c. 
that is smuggled into the stomach. 

To thicken and give body to soups and sauces, the follow- 
ing materials are used : they must be gradually mixed with 
the soup till thoroughly incorporated with it ; and it should 
have at least half an hour's gentle simmering after : if it is 
at all lumpy, pass it through a tamis or a fine sieve. Bread 
raspings, bread, isinglass, potato mucilage (No. 448), flour, 
or fat skimmings and flour (see No. 248), or flour and butter, 
barley (see No. 204), rice, or oatmeal and water rubbed 
well together, (see No. 257, in which this subject is fully 
explained.) 

To give that glutinous quality so much admired in mock 
turtle, see No. 198, and note under No. 247, No. 252, and 
N.B. to No. 481. 

To their very rich gravies, &c. the French add the white 
meat of partridges, pigeons, or fowls, pounded to a pulp, 
and rubbed through a sieve. Apiece of beef, which has been 
boiled to make broth, pounded in the like manner with a bit 
of butter and flour, see ohs. to No. 485* and No. 503, 
and gradually incorporated with the gravy or soup, will 
be found a satisfactory substitute for these more expensive 
articles. 

Meat from which broth has been made (No. 185*, and No. 
252), and all its juice has been extracted, is then excellently 
well prepared for potting, (see No. 503), and is quite as 
good, or better, than that which has been baked till it is dry;* 
indeed, if it be pounded, and seasoned in the usual manner, 
it will be an elegant and savoury luncheon, or supper, and 
costs nothing but the trouble of preparing it, which is very 
little, and a relish is procured for sandwiches, &c. (No. 504) 
of what heretofore has been by the poorest housekeeper 
considered the perquisite of the cat. 

Keep some spare broth lest your soup-liquor waste in boil- 
ing, and get too thick, and for gravy for your made dishes, 
various sauces, &c. ; for many of which it is a much better 
basis than melted butter. 

The soup of mock turtle, and the other thickened soups, 
(No. 247), will supply you with a thick gravy sauce for 
poultry^ jish, ragouts, &c. ; and by a little management of 
this sort, you may generally contrive to have plenty of good 
gravies and good sauces with very little trouble or expense. 
See also Portable Soup (No. 252). 

* If the gravy be not completely drained from it, the article potted will very Boon 
turn sour. 



\ 

BROTHS AND SOUPS. 99 

If soup is too thin or too weak, take off the cover of your 
soup-pot, and let it boil till some of the watery part of it has 
evaporated, or else add some of the thickening materials we 
have before mentioned ; and have at hand some plain brown- 
ing : see No. 322, and the obs. thereon. This simple pre- 
paration is much better than any of the compounds bearing 
that name ; as it colours sauce or soup without much inter- 
fering with its flavour, and is a much better way of colour- 
ing them than burning the surface of the meat. 

When soups and gravies are kept from day to day, in hot 
weather, they should be warmed up eveiy day, and put into 
fresh-scalded tureens or pans, and placed in a cool cellar ; in 
temperate weather every other day may be enough. 

We hope we have now put the common cook into posses- 
sion of the whole arcana of soup-making, without muclj. 
trouble to herself, or expense to her employers. It need not 
be said in future that an Englishman only knows how to make 
soup in his stomach, by swilling down a large quantity of 
ale or porter, to quench the thirst occasioned by the meat he 
eats. John Bull may now make his soup " secundum artem,''^ 
and save his principal viscera a great deal of trouble. 

%* In the following receipts we have directed the spices* 
and flavouring to be added at the usual time ; but it would 
greatly diminish the expense, and improve the soups, if the 
agents employed to give them a zest were not put in above 
fifteen minutes before the finish, and half the quantity of 
spice, &c. would do. A. strong heat soon dissipates the 
spirit of the wine, and evaporates the aroma and flavour of 
the spices and herbs, which are volatile in the heat of boiling 
water. 

In ordering the proportions of meat, butter, wine, &c. the 
proper quantity is set down, and less will not do : we have 
carried economy quite as far as possible without " spoiling 
the broth for a halfpenny worth of salt." 

I conclude these remarks with observing, that some per- 
sons imagine that soup tends to relax the stomach. So far 
from being prejudicial, we consider the moderate use of such 
liquid nourishment to be highly salutary. Does not our food 
and drink, even though cold, become in a few minutes a kind 
of warm soup in the stomach T and therefore soup, if not 
eaten too hot, or in too great a quantity, and of proper qua- 
lity, is attended with great advantages, especially to those 
who drink but little. 

* Economists recommend these to be pounded ; they certainly go farther, as they 
call it; but we think they go too far, for they go through the sieve, and make the 
soup grouty. 



100 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Warm fluids, in the form of soup, unite with our juices 
much sooner and better than those tliat are cold and raw : 
on this account, restorative soup is the best food for those 
who are enfeebled by disease or dissipation, and for old 
people, whose teeth and digestive organs are impaired. 

" Half subtilized to chyle, the liquid food 
Readiest obeys th' as-dmiiating powers." 

After catching cold, in nervous headaches, cholics, indi- 
gestions, and different kinds of cramp and spasms in the 
stomach, warm broth is of excellent service. 

After intemperate feasting, to give the stomach a holyday 
for a day or two by a diet on mutton broth (No. 564, or Na. 
572), or vegetable soup (No. 218), &c. is the best way to 
restore its tone. " The stretching any power to its utmost 
extent weakens it. If the stomach be every day obliged to 
do as much as it can, it will every day be able to do less. A 
wise traveller will never force his horse to perform as much 
as he can in one day upon a long journey." — Father Feyjoo's 
i?w/es, p. 85. 

To WARM SOUPS, &c. (No. 485.) 

N.B. With the portable soup (No. 252), a pint of broth 
may be made in five minutes for threepence. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

gravies and sauces. 



" The spirit of each dish, and zest of all, 
Is what ingenious cooks the relish call; 
For though the market sends in loads of food, 
They are all tsisteless, till that makes ihem good." 

King's Art of Cookery, 



** Ex parvis componere magnaJ'^ 

It is of as much importance that the cook should know 
how to make a boat of good gravy for her poultry, &c. as 
that it should be sent up of proper complexion, and nicely 
frothed. 

In this chapter, we shall endeavour to introduce to her all 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 101' 

the materials* which give flavour in sauce, which is the es- 
sence of soup, and intended to contain more relish in a tea- 
spoonful than the former does in a table-spoonful. 

We hope to deserve as much praise from the economist as 
we do from the hon vivant ; as we have taken great pains to 
introduce to him the methods of making substitutes for those 
ingredients, which are always expensive, and often not to 
be had at all. Many of these cheap articles are as savoury 
and as salutary as the dearer ones, and those who have large 
families and limited incomes, will, no doubt, be glad to avail 
themselves of them. 

The reader may rest assured, that whether he consults 
this book to diminish the expense or increase the pleasures 
of hospitality, he will find all the information that was to 
be obtained up to 1826, communicated in the most unreserved 
and intelligible manner. 

A great deal of the elegance of cookery depends upon the 
accompaniments to each dish being appropriate and well 
adapted to it. 

We can assure our readers, no attention has been wanting 
on our part to render this department of the work worthy of 
their perusal ; each receipt is the faithful narrative of actual 
and repeated experiments, and has received the most deli- 
berate consideration before it was here presented to them. 
It is given in the most circumstantial manner, and not in the 
technical and mysterious language former writers on these 
subjects seem to have preferred; by which their directions 
are useless and unintelligible to all who have not regularly 
served an apprenticeship at the stove. 

Thus, instead of accurately enumerating the quantities, 
and explaining the process of each composition, they order 
a ladleful of stock, a pint of consommi, and a spoonful of 
cullis ; as if a private-family cook had always at hand a 
soup-kettle full of stock, a store of consomm6, and the larder 
of Albion house, and the spoons and pennyworths were the 
same in all ages. 

It will be to very little purpose that I have taken so much 
pains to teach how to manage roasts and boils, if a cook 
cannot or will not make the several sauces that are usually 
sent up with them. 

The most homely fare may be made relishing, and the 
most excellent and independent improved by a well-made 

* See, in pages 91, 92, a. cltalogce of the ingr^ients now used in soups, 
sauces, &.C. 

13 



102 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

sauce ;* as the most perfect picture may, by being well 
varnished. 

We have, therefore, endeavoured to give the plainest 
directions how to produce, with the least trouble and ex- 
pense! possible, all the various compositions the English 
kitchen aifords ; and hope to present such a wholesome and 
palatable variety as will suit all tastes and all pockets, so 
that a cook may give satisfaction in all families. The more 
combinations of this sort she is acquainted with, the better 
she will comprehend the management of every one of them. 

We have rejected some outlandish farragoes, from a convic- 
tion that they were by no means adapted to an English palate. 
If they have been received into some English books, for the 
sake of swelling the volume, we believe they will never be 
received by an Englishman's stomach, unless for the reason 
they were admitted into the cookery book, i. c. because he 
has nothing else to put into it. 

However " les pompeuses bagatelles de la Cuisine Masqu^e'^ 
may tickle the fancy of demi-connoisseurs, who, leaving the 
substance to pursue the shadow, prefer wonderful and 
whimsical metamorphoses, and things extravagantly ex- 
pensive to those which are intrinsically excellent ; in whose 
mouth mutton can hardly hope for a welcome, unless accom- 
panied by venison sauce ; or a rabbit, any chance for a race 
down the red lane, without assuming the fonn of a frog or 
a spider ; or pork, without being either ^^ goosified''^ or " lambi- 

* "It is the duty of a good sauce," says the editor of the Almanack des Gour- 
mands (vol. V. page 6), "to insinuate itself all round and about the maxillary glands, 
and imperceptibly awaken into activity each ramification of the organs of taste: if 
not sufficiently savoury, it cannot produce this effect, and if too piquante, it will 
paralyze, instead of exciting, those delicious titillalions of tongue and vibrations of 
palate, that only the most accomplished philosophers of the mouth can produce on 
the highly-educated palates of thrice happy grands gourmands." 

t To save lime and trouble is the most valuable frugality : and if the mistress of 
a family will condescend to devote a little time to the profitable and pleasant em- 
ployment of preparing some of the store sauces, especially Nos. 322. 402. 404. 
413. 429. 433. 439. 454 ; these, both epicures and economists will avail themselves of 
the advantage now given them, of preparing at home. 

By the help of these, many disfies may be dressed in half the usual time, and with 
half the trouble and expense, Snd flavoured and finished with much more certainty 
than by the common methods. 

A small portion of the time which young ladies sacrifice to torturing the strings 
of their piano forte, employed in obtaining domestic accomplishments, might not 
make them worse wives, or less agreeable companions to their husbands. Tliis was 
the opinion 200 years ago. 

" To speak, then, of the knowledge which belongs unto our British housewife, I 
hold the most principal to be a perfect skill in cookery : she that is utterly ignorant 
therein, may not, by the lawes of strict justice, challenge the freedom of marriage, 
because indeede she can perform but half her vow : she may love and obey, but she 
cannot cherish and keepe her husband." — G. Markham's English Housewife^ 4to. 
1637, p. 62. 

We hope our fair readers will forgive us, for telling them that economy in a wife^ 
is the most certain charm to ensure the affection and industry of a husband. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 103 

j/?ed" (see No. 51) ; and game and poultry in the shape of 
crawfish or hedgehogs ; these travesties rather show the 
patience than the science of the cook, and the bad taste of 
those who prefer such baby-tricks to nourishing and sub- 
stantial plain cookery. 

I could have made this the biggest book with half the trouble 
it has taken me to make it the best : concentration and per- 
spicuity have been my aim. 

As much pains have been taken in describing, in the most 
intelligible manner, how to make, in the easiest, most agree- 
able, and economical way, those common sauces that daily 
contribute to the comfort of the middle ranks of society ; as 
in directing the preparation of those extravagant and elabo- 
rate double relishes, the most ingenious and accomplished 
" officers of the mouth'''' have invented for the amusement of 
profound palaticians, and thorough-bred grands gourmands 
of the first magnitude : these we have so reduced the 
trouble and expense of making, as to bring them within the 
reach of moderate fortunes ; still preserving all that is valua- 
ble of their taste and qualities ; so ordering them, that they 
may delight the palate, without disordering thte stomach, by 
leaving out those inflammatory ingredients which are only 
fit for an " iron throat and adamantine bowels," and those 
costly materials which no rational being would destroy, for 
the wanton purpose of merely giving a fine name to the com- 
positions they enter into, to whose excellence they contribute 
nothing else. For instance, consiuning two partridges to make 
sauce for one: half a pint of game gravy (No. 329,) will be 
infinitely more acceptable to the unsophisticated appetite of 
Englishmen, for whose proper and rational recreation we sat 
down to compose these receipts ; whose approbation we 
have done our utmost to deserv^e, by devoting much time to 
the business of the kitchen ; and by repeating the various pro- 
cesses that we thought admitted of the smallest improvement. 

We shall be fully gratified, if our book is not bought up 
with quite so much avidity by those high-bred epicures, who 
are unhappily so much more nice than wise, that they cannot 
eat any thing dressed by an English cook ; and vote it bar- 
barously unrefined and intolerably ungenteel, to endure the 
sight of the best bill of fare that can be contrived, if writtea 
, in the vulgar tongue of old England.* 

* Though some of these people seem at last to have found out, that an English' 
man's head may be as full of gravy as a Frenchman's, and willing to give the pre- 
ference to native talent, retain an Englishman or woman as prime minister of their 
kitchen ; still they seem ashamed to confess it, and commonly insist as a " sine quA 
non,'^ that their English domestics should understand the "pariez bows;" and not- 



104 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Let your sauces each display a decided character; send 
up your plain sauces (oyster, lobster, &c.) as pure as pos- 
sible ; they should only taste of the materials from which 
they take their name. 

The imagination of most cooks is so incessantly on the 
hunt for a relish, that they seem to think they cannot make 
sauce sufficiently savoury without putting into it every thing 
that ever was eaten; and supposing every addition must be 
an improvement, they frequently overpower the natural 
flavour of their plain sauces, by overloading them with salt 
and spices, &c. : but, remember, these will be deteriorated by 
any addition, save only just salt enough to awaken the palate. 
The lover of ^^ piquance^'' and compound flavours, may have 
recourse to " the Magazine of Taste,''^ No. 462. 

On the contrary, of compound sauces ; the ingredients should 
be so nicely proportioned, that no one be predominant ; so 
that from the equal union of the combined flavours such a fine 
mellow mixture is produced, whose very novelty cannot fail 
of being acceptable to the persevering ^ot^nnanc?, if it has not 
pretensions to a permanent place at his table. 

An ingenious cook will form as endless a variety of these 
compositions as a musician with his seven* notes, or a painter 
with his colours'; no part of her business offers so fair and 
frequent an opportunity to display her abilities : spices, 
HERBS, &c. are often very absurdly and injudiciously jumbled 
together. 

Why have clove and allspice, or mace and nutmeg, in the 
same sauce; or marjoram, thyme, and savoury; or onions, 
leeks, eshalots, and garlic? one will very well supply the 
place of the other, and the frugal cook may save something 
considerable by attending to this, to the advantage of her 
employers, and her own time and trouble. You might as 
well, to make soup, order one quart of water from the Thames^ 
another from the New River, a third from Hampstead, and a 
fourth from Chelsea, with a certain portion of spring and rain 
water. 

In many of our receipts we have fallen in with the fashion 
of ordering a mixture of spices, &c., which the above hint 
will enable the culinary student to correct. 

" Pharmacy is now much more simple ; cookery may be 

withstanding they are perfectly initiated in all the minutiae of the philosophy of the 
mouth, consider them uneligible, if they cannot scribble a bill of fare in pretty good 
iad French. 

* The principal agents now employed to flavour soups and sauces are, mttsh- 
RooMs (No. 439), ONIONS (No. 430), anchovy (No. 433), lkmon-juick and peel, oi 
AiNKQAR, WINE, (especially good claret), sweet herbs, and savoust spicks.-— 
Nost 420-422, and 457. 459, 46a 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 105 

made so too. A prescription which is now compounded with 
five ingredients, had formerly fifty in it : people begin to un- 
derstand that the materia medica is little more than a collec- 
tion of evacuants and stimuli." — BosweWs Ldfe of Johnson* 

The ragouts of the last century had infinitely more ingre- 
dients than we use now ; the praise given to Will. Rabisha for 
his Cookery, 12mo. 1673, is 

" To fry and fricassee, his way 's most neat, 
For he compounds a thousand sorts of meat." 

To become a perfect mistress of the art of cleverly ex- 
tracting and combining flavours,* besides the gift of a good 
taste, requires all the experience and skill of the most accom- 
plished professor, and, especially, an intimate acquaintance 
with the palate she is working for. 

Send your sauces to table as hot as possible. 

Nothing' can be more unsightly than the surface of a sauce 
in a frozen state, or garnished with grease on the top. The 
best way to get rid of this, is to pass it through a tamis or 
napkin previously soaked in cold water; the coldness of the 
napkin will coagulate the fat, and only suffer the pure gravy 
to pass through: if any particles of fat remain, take them off 
by applying filtering paper, as blotting paper is applied to 
writing. 

Let your sauces boil up after you put in wine, anchovy, or 
thickening, that their flavours may be well blended with the 
other ingredients ;t and keep in mind that the " chef-d'oeuvre^^ 
of COOKERY is, to eutcrtain the mouth without offending the 
stomach. 

N.B. Although I have endeavoured to give the particular 
quantity of each ingredient used in the following sauces, as 
they are generally made; still the cook's judgment must 
direct her to lessen or increase either of the ingredients, 
according to the taste of those she works for, and will always 
be on the alert to ascertain what are the favourite accompani- 
ments desired with each dish. See Advice to Cooks, page 50. 

When you open a bottle of catchup (No. 439), essence of 
anchovy (No. 433), &c., throw away the old cork, and stop it 
closely with a new cork that will fit it very tight. Use only 
the best superfine velvet taper-corks. 

* If your palate becomes dull by repeatedly tasting, the best way to refresh it is 
to wash your mouth well with milk. 

t Before you put eggs or cream into a sauce, have all your other ingredients well 
boiled, and the sauce or soup of proper thickness ; because neither eggs nor cream 
will contribute to thicken it. — After you have put them in, do not set the stew-pan 
on the stove again, but hold it over the fixe, and shake it round one way till tll9 
sauce is ready. 



106 MADE DISHES, 

Economy in corks is extremely unwise : in order to save 3 
mere trifle in the price of the cork, you run the risk of losing 
the valuable article it is intended to preserve. 

It is a vulgar error that a bottle must be well stopped, 
when the cork is forced down even with the mouth of it ; it 
is rather a sign that the cork is too small, and it should be 
redrawn and a larger one put in. 

To make bottle-cement. 

Half a pound of black resin, same quantity of red sealing- 
wax, quarter oz. bees' wax, melted in an earthen or iron pot ; 
when it froths up, before all is melted and likely to boil over, 
stir it with a tallow candle, which will settle the froth till all 
is melted and fit for use. Red wax, 10c?. per lb. may be 
bought at Mr. Dew's Blackmore-street, Clare-market. 

N.B. This cement is of very great use in preserving 
things that you wish to keep a long time, which without its 
help would soon spoil, from the clmnsy and ineffectual man- 
ner in which the bottles are corked. 



CHAPTER IX. 

MADE DISHES. 

Under this general head we range our receipts for hashes, 
STEWS, and ragouts,* &c. Of these there are a great multi- 
tude, affording the ingenious cook an inexhaustible store of 
variety ; in the French kitchen they count upwards of 600, 
and are daily inventing new ones. 

We have very few general observations to make, after 
what we have already said in the two preceding chapters on 
sauces, soups, &c., which apply to the present chapter, as they 
form the principal part of the accompaniment of most of these 
dishes. In fact, made dishes are nothing more than meat, 
poultry (No. 530), or fish (Nos. 146, 158, or 164), stewed very 
gently till they are tender, with a thickened sauce poured 
over them. 

* Sauce for ragoiitg, &c., should be thickened till it is of the consistence of good 
rich cream, that it may adhere to whatever it is poured over. When you have a 
large dinner to dress, keep ready-mixed some fine-sifted flour and water well rubbed 
together till quite smooth, and about as thick as butter. See No. 257. 



MADE DISHES. 107 

Be careful to trim off all the skin, gristle, &c. that will not 
be eaten; and shape handsomely, and of even thickness, the 
various articles which compose your made dishes : this is 
sadly neglected by common cooks. Only stew them till they 
are just tender, and do not stew them to rags; therefore, 
what you prepare the day before it is to be eaten, do not dress 
quite enough the first day. 

We have given receipts for the most easy and simple way 
to make hashes, &c. Those Avho are well skilled in culinary 
arts can dress up things in this way, so as to be as agreeable 
as they were the first time they were cooked. Bijt flashing 
is a very bad mode of cookery: if meat has been done 
enough the first time it is dressed, a second dressing will 
divest it of all its nutritive juices ; and if it can be smuggled 
into the stornach by bribing the palate with piquante sauce, 
it is at the hazard of an indigestion, &c. 

I promise those who do me the honour to put my receipts 
into practice, that they will find that the most nutritious and 
truly elegant dishes are neither the most difficult to dress, 
the most expensive, nor the most indigestible. In these com- 
positions experience will go far to diminish expense : meat 
that is too old or too tough for roasting, &c., may by gentle 
stewing be rendered savoury and tender. If some of our 
receipts do differ a little from those in former cookery books, 
let it be remembered we have advanced nothing in this work 
that has not been tried, and experience has proved correct. 

N.B. See No. 483, an ingenious and economical system 
of French cookery, written at the request of the editor by 
an accomplished English lady, which will teach you how 
to supply your table with elegant little made dishes, &c. at 
as little expense as plain cookery. 



THB 



COOK'S ORACLE. 



BOILING. 

[Read the first chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery.] 

Leg of Mutton.— (No, 1.) 

Cut off the shank bone, and trim the knuckle, put it into 
lukewarm water for ten minutes, wash it clean, cover it with 
cold water, and let it simmer very gently, and skim it care- 
fully. A le^ of nine pounds will take two and a half or 
three hours, if you like it thoroughly done, especially in 
very cold weather. 

For the accompaniments, see the following receipt. 

N.B. The tit-bits with an epicure are the " knuckle," the 
kernel, called the ^^ pope's eye,''' and the ^^gentleman's,''' or 
" cramp honey' or, as it is called in Kent, the " caw caw," 
four of these and a bounder furnish the little masters and 
mistresses of Kent with their most favourite set of play- 
things. 

A leg of mutton stewed very slowly, as we have directed 
the beef to be (No. 493), will be as agreeable to an English 
appetite as the famous " gigot* de sept heures" of the French 
kitchen is to a Parisian palate. 

When inutton is very large, you may divide it, and roast 
the fillet, i. e. the large end, and hoil the knuckle end ; you may 
also cut some fine cutlets off the thick end of the leg, and 
so have two or three good hot dinners. See Mrs. Makeitdo's 
receipt how to make a leg of mutton last a week, in 
" the housekeeper's leger," printed for Whittaker, Ave-Maria 
Lane. 

ITie liquor the mutton is boiled in, you may convert into 
good soup in five minutes, (see N.B. to No. 218,) and Scotch 
barley broth (No. 204). Thus managed, a leg of mutton is 
a most economical joint. 

* The gigot is the leg with part of the loin. 



BOILING. 109 

Neck of Mutton.^Q^o. 2.) * 

Put four or five pounds of the best end of a neck (that has 
been kept a few days) into as much cold soft water as will 
cover it, and about two inches over; let it simmer very 
slowly for two hours : it will look most delicate if you do 
not take off the skin till it has been boiled. 

For sauce, that elegant and innocent relish, parsley and 
butter (No. 261), or eshalot (No. 294 or 5), or caper sauce 
(No. 274), mock caper sauce (No. 275), and onion sauce 
(No. 298), turnips (No. 130), or spinage (No. 121), are the 
usual accompaniments to boiled mutton. 

Lamb.— (No. 3.) 

A leg of five pounds should simmer very gently for about 
two hours, from the time it is put on, in cold water. After 
the general rules for boiling, in the first chapter of the Rudir 
ments of Cookery, we have nothing to add, only to send up 
with it spinage (No. 122), broccoli (No. 126), cauliflower 
(No, 125), &c., and for sauce, No. 261. 

Fea/.— (No. 4.) 

This is expected to come to table looking delicately clean ; 
and it is so easily discoloured, that you must be careful to 
have clean water, a clean vessel, and constantly catch the 
scum as soon and as long as it rises, and attend to the direc- 
tions before given in the first chapter of the Rudiments of 
Cookery. Send up bacon (No. 13), fried sausages (No. 87), 
or pickled pork, greens, (No. 118 and following Nos.) and 
parsley and butter (No. 261), onion sauce (No. 298). 

N.B. For receipts to cook veal, see from No. 512 to No. 
521. 

Beef bouilli, — (No. 5.) 

In plain English, is understood to mean boiled beef ; but 
its culinary acceptation, in the French kitchen, is fresh beef 
dressed without boiling, and only very gently simmered by a 
slow fire. 

Cooks have seldom any notion, that good soup can be made 
without destroying a great deal of meat; however, by a 
judicious regulation of the fire, and a vigilant attendance on 
the soup-kettle, this may be accomplished. You shall have 
a tureen of such soup as will satisfy the most fastidious 
palate, and the meat make its appearance at table, at the 

K 



1 10 BOILING. 

same time, in possession of a full portion of nutritious suc- 
culence. 

This requires nothing more than to stew the meat very 
slowly (instead of keeping- the pot boiling- a gallop, as com- 
mon cooks too commonly do), and to take it up as soon as 
it is done enough. See " Soup and bouilli" (No. 238), 
" Shin of beef stewed" (No. 493), " Scotch barley broth" 
(No. 204). 

Meat cooked in this manner affords much more nourish- 
ment than it does dressed in the common way, is easy of 
digestion in proportion as it is tender, and an invigorating, 
substantial diet, especially valuable to the poor, whose labo- 
rious employments require support. 

If they could get good eating put within their reach, they 
would often go to the butcher's shop, when they now run to 
the public-house. 

Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested 
for bettering the condition of the poor, a more useful or ex- 
tensive charity cannot be devised, than that of instructing 
them in economical and comfortable cookery, except pro- 
viding them with spectacles. 

"The poor in Scotland, and on the Continent, manage 
much better. Oatmeal porridge (Nos. 205 and 572) and. 
milk, constitute the breakfast and supper of those patterns 
of industry, frugality, and temperance, the Scottish pea- 
santry. 

" When they can afford meat, they form with it a large 
quantity of barley broth (No. 204), with a variety of vege- 
tables, by boiling the whole a long time, enough to serve the 
family for several days. 

"When they cannot afford meat, they make broth of 
barley and other vegetables, with a lump of butter (see No. 
229), all of which they boil for many hours, and this with 
oat cakes forms their dinner." Cochrane's Seaman's Guide, 
p. 34. 

The cheapest method of making a nourishing soup is least 
known to those who have most need of it. (See No. 229.) 

Our neighbours the French are so justly famous for their 
skill in the affairs of the kitchen, that the adage says, " as 
many Frenchmen as many cooks :" surrounded as they are 
by a profusion of the most delicious wines and most seducing 
liqueurs, offering every temptation and facility to render 
drunkenness delightful : yet a tippling Frenchman is a " rara 
avis ;" they know how so easily and completely to keep life 
in repair by good eating, that they require little or no adjust- 
ment from drinking. 



BOILING. Ill' 

This accounts for that " toujours gai,^^ and happy equili- 
brium of spirits, which they enjoy with more regularity than 
any people. Their stomach, being- unimpaired by spirituous 
liquors, embrace and digest vig-orously the food they saga- 
ciously prepare for it, and render easily assimilable by cook- 
ing it sufficiently, wisely contriving to get the difficult part of 
the work of the stomach done by fire and water. 

To salt Meat.— (No, 6.) 

In the summer season, especially, meat is frequently spoiled 
by the cook forgetting to take out the kernels ; one in the 
udder of a round of beef, in the fat in the middle of the 
round, those about the thick end of the flank, &c. : if these 
are not taken out, all the salt in the world will not keep the 
meat. 

The art of salting meat is to rub in the salt thoroughly 
and evenly into every part, and to fill all the holes full of salt 
where the kernels were taken out, and where the butcher's 
skewers were. 

A round of beef of 25 pounds will take a pound and 
a half of salt to be rubbed in all at first, and requires to 
be turned and rubbed every day with the brine ; it will be 
ready for dressing in four or five days,* if you do not wish 
it very salt. 

In summer, the sooner meat is salted after it is killed 
the better ; and care must be taken to defend it from the flies. 

In winter, it will eat the shorter and tenderer, if kept a few 
days (according to the temperature of the weather) until its 
fibre has become short and tender, as these changes do not 
take place after it has been acted upon by the salt. 

In frosty weather, take care the meat is not frozen, and 
warm the salt in a frying-pan. The extremes of heatf and 
cold are equally unfavourable for the process of salting. In 
the former, the meat changes before the salt can affect it : 
in the latter, it is so hardened, and its juices are so congealed, 
that the salt cannot penetrate it. 

If you wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in the pro- 
portion of half an ounce, and the like quantity of moist 
sugar, to a pound of common salt. (See Savoury salt beef, 
No. 496.) 

* If not to be cut till cold, two days longer salting will not only improve its flavour, 
but the meat will keep better. 

t In the West Indies they can scarcely cure beef with pickle, but easily preserve 
it by cutting it into thin slices and dipping them in sea-water, and then drying them 
quickly in the sun ; to which they give the name of jerked iee/.— BROWNRioa on 
Salt, 8vo. p. 762. 



112 BOILING. 

You may impregnate meat with a very a^eeable vegetable 
flavour, by pounding some sweet herbs (No. 459,) and an 
onion with the salt. You may make it still more relishing 
by adding a little zest (No. 255), or savoury spice (No. 457). 

To pickle Meat 

" Six pounds of salt, one pound of sugar, and four ounces 
of saltpetre, boiled with four gallons of water, skimmed, and 
allowed to cool, forms a very strong pickle, which will pre- 
serve any meat completely immersed in it. To effect this, 
which is essential, either a heavy board or a flat stone must 
be laid upon the meat. The same pickle may be used re- 
peatedly, provided it be boiled up occasionally with additional 
salt to restore its strength, diminished by the combination 
of part of the salt with the meat, and by the dilution of the 
pickle by the juices of the meat extracted. By boiling, the 
albumen, which would cause the pickle to spoil, is coagu- 
lated, and rises in the form of scum, which must be care- 
fully removed." — See Supplement to Encyclop. Britan. vol. 
iv. p. 340. 

Meat kept immersed in pickle gains weight. In one expe- 
riment by Messrs. Donkin and Gamble, there was a gain of 
three per cent., and in another of two and a half; but in the 
common way of salting, when the meat is not immersed in 
pickle, there is a loss of about one pound, or one and a half, 
in sixteen. See Dr. Wilkinson's account of the preserving 
power of PYRo-LiGNEous Acm, &c. in the Philosophical Maga- 
zine for 1821, No. 273, p. 12. 

An H-bone of 10 or 12 pounds weight will require about 
three-quarters of a pound of salt, and an ounce of moist 
sugar, to be well rubbed into it. It will be ready in four or 
five days, if turned and rubbed every day. 

The time meat requires salting depends upon the weight 
of it, and how much salt is used : and if it be rubbed in with 
a heavy handj it will be ready much sooner than if only 
lightly rubbed. 

N. B. Dry the salt, and rub it with the sugar in a mortar. 

Pork requires a longer time to cure (in proportion to its 
weight) than beef. A leg of pork should be in salt eight or 
ten days ; turn it and rub it every day. 

Salt meat should be well washed before it is boiled, espe- 
cially if it has been in salt long, that the liquor in which the 
meat is boiled, may not be too salt to make soup of. (No. 
218, &c. and No. 555.) 

If it has been in salt a long time, and you fear that it will 



BOILING. 113 

be too salt, wash it well in cold water, and soak it in luke- 
warm water for a couple of hours. If it is very salt, lay it 
in water the night before you intend to dress it. 

A Round of salted Beef. — (No. 7.) 

As this is too large for a moderate family, we shall write 
directions for the dressing half a round. Get the tongue side. 

Skewer it up tight and I'ound, and tie a fillet of broad tape 
round it, to keep the skewers in their places. 

Put it into plenty of cold water, and carefully catch the 
scum as soon as it rises : let it boil till all the scum is re- 
moved, and then put the boiler on one side of the fire, to keep 
simmering slowly till it is done. 

Half a round of 15lbs. will take about three hours : if it 
weighs more, give it more time. 

When you take it up, if any stray scum, &c. sticks to it 
that has escaped the vigilance of your skimYner, wash it off 
with a paste-brush: garnish the dishes with carrots and 
turnips. Send up carrots (No. 129), turnips (No. 130), and 
parsnips, or greens (No. 118), &c. on separate dishes. Pease 
pudding (No. 555), and my pudding (No. 551), are all very 
proper accompaniments. 

N.B. The outside slices, which are generally too much 
salted and too much boijed, will make a very good relish as 
potted beef (No. 503). For using up the remains of aijoint 
of boiled beef, see also Bubble and Squeak (No. 505). 

H-Bone of Beef— (No. 8.) 

Is to be managed in exactly the same manner as the round, 
but will be sooner boiled, as it is not so solid. An H-bone 
of 20lbs. will be done enough in about four hours ; of lOlbs. 
in three hours, more or less, as the weather is hotter or 
colder. Be sure the boiler is big enough to allow it plenty 
of water-room : let it be well covered with water : set the 
pot on one side of the fire to boil gently : if it boils quick at 
first, no art can make it tender after. The slower it boils, 
the better it will look, and the tenderer it will be. The same 
accompanying vegetables as in the preceding receipt. Dress 
plenty of carrots, as cold carrots are a general favourite with 
cold beef. 

Mem. — Epicures say, that the soft, fat-like marrow, which 
lies on the back, is delicious when hot, and the hard fat about 
the upper comer is best when cold. 

To make perfectly good pease soup in ten minutes* of 

K2 



114 BOILING. 

the liquor in which the beef has been boiled, see N.B. to 
No. 218. 

Obs. — In " Mrs. Mason's Ladies' Assistant," this joint is 
called haunch-bone ; in " Henderson's Cookery," edge-bone ; 
in " Domestic Management," aitch-bone ; in " Reynold's 
Cookery," ische-bone; in "Mrs. Lydia Fisher's Prudent 
Housewife," ach-bone; in "Mrs. M'lver's Cookery," hook- 
bone. We have also seen it spelled each-bone and ridge- 
bon€ ; and we have also heard it called natch-bone. 

N.B. Read the note under No. 7 ; and to make perfectly 
good pease soup of the pot-liquor, in ten minutes, see Obs» 
to No. 2 18, No. 229, and No. 555. 

Ribs of Beef salted and rolled. — (No. 9.) 

Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dressed in the 
same way. " Wow-wow" sauce (No. 328,) is an agreeable 
companion. 

Half a Calf s Head.— {No. 10.) 

Cut it in two, and take out the brains : wash the head well 
in several waters, and soak it in warm water for a quarter 
of an hour before you dress it. Put the head into a sauce- 
pan, with plenty of cold water : when it is coming to a boil, 
and the scum rises, carefully remove it. 

Half a calf s head (without the skin) will take from an 
hour and a half to two hours and a quarter, according to its 
size ; with the skin on, about an hour longer. It must be 
stewed very gently till it is tender : it is then extremely nutri- 
tive, and easy of digestion. 

Put eight or ten sage leaves (some cooks use parsley 
instead, or equal parts of each) into a small sauce-pan : boU 
them tender (about half an hour) ; then chop them very fine, 
and set them ready on a plate. 

Wash the brains well in two waters ; put them into a large 
basin of cold water, with a little salt in it, and let them soak 
for an hour ; then pour away the cold, and cover them with 
hot water ; and when you have cleaned and skinned them, 
put them mto a stew-pan with plenty of cold water : M^hen 
it boils, take the scum off very carefully, and boil gently for 
10 or 15 minutes : now chop them (not very fine) ; put them 
into a sauce-pan with the sage leaves and a couple of table- 
spoonsful of thin melted butter, and a little salt (to this some 
cooks add a little lemon-juice), and stir them well together ; 
and as soon as they are well warmed (take care they don't 



BOILING. 115 

bum), skin the tongue,* trim off the roots, and put it in the 
middle of a dish, and the brains round it : or, chop the 
brains with an eschalot, a little parsley, and four hard-boiled 
eggs, and put them into a quarter of a pint of bechamel, or 
white sauce (No. 2 of 364). A calfs cheek is usually attended 
by a pig's cheek, a knuckle of ham or bacon (No. 13, or No. 
526), or pickled pork (No. 11), and greens, broccoli, cauli- 
flowers, or pease ; and always by parsley and butter (see 
No. 261, No. 311, or No. 343). 

If you like it full dressed, score it superficially, beat up 
the yelk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather ; 
powder it with a seasoning of finely minced (or dried and 
powdered) winter savoury or lemon-thyrne (or sage), pars- 
ley, pepper, and salt, and bread crumbs, and give it a brown 
with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven : when it begins 
to dry, sprinkle a little melted butter over it wdth a paste- 
brush. 

You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon 
(No. 526 or 527). 

Obs. — Calfs head is one of the most delicate and favourite 
dishes in the list of boiled meats; but nothing is more 
insipid when cold, and nothing makes so nice a hash; there- 
fore don't forget to save a quart of the liquor it was boiled 
in to make sauce, &c. for the hash (see also No. 520). 
Cut the head and tongue into slices, trim them neatly, and 
leave out the gristles and fat ; and slice some of the bacon 
that was dressed to eat with the head, and wanii them in 
the hash. 

Take the bones and the trimmings of the head, a bundle 
of sweet herbs, an onion, a roll of lemon-peel, and a blade 
of bruised mace : put these into a sauce-pan with the quart 
of liquor you have saved, and let it boil gently for an hour ; 
pour it through a sieve into a basin, wash out your stew-pan, 
add a table-spoonful of flour to the brains and parsley and 
butter you have left, and pour it into the gravy you have made 
with the bones and trimmings ; let it boil up for ten minutes, 
and then strain it through a hair-sieve ; season it with a 
table-spoonful of white wine, or of catchup (No. 439), or 
sauce superlative (No. 429) : give it a boil up, skim it, and 
then put in the brains and the slices of head and bacon ; as 
soon as they are thoroughly warm (it must not boil) the hash 
is ready. Some cooks egg, bread-crumb, and fry the finest 
pieces of the head, and lay them round the hash. 

N.B. You may garnish the edges of the dish with slices 

♦ This, salted^ makes a very pretty supper-cUsU* 



116 BOILING. 

of bacon toasted in a Dutch oven (see Nos. 526 and 527), 
slices of lemon and fried bread. " 

To make gravy for hashes, &c. see No. 360. 

Pickled Pork —{No. 11.) 

Takes more time than any other meat. If you buy your 
pork ready salted, ask how many days it has been in salt ; 
if many, it will require to be soaked in water for six hours 
before you dress it. When you cook it, wash and scrape it 
as clean as possible ; when delicately dressed, it is a favourite 
dish with almost every body. Take care it does not boil 
fast ; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces, before the 
thick part of the meat is warm through ; a leg of seven 
pounds takes three hours and a half very slow simmering. 
Skim your pot very carefully, and when you take the meat 
out of the boiler, scrape it clean. 

Some sagacious cooks (who remember to how many more 
nature has given eyes than she has given tongues and brains), 
when pork is boiled, score it in diamonds, and take out every 
other square ; and thus present a retainer to the eye to plead 
for them to the palate ; but this is pleasing the eye at the 
expense of the palate. A leg of nice pork, nicely salted, and 
nicely boiled, is as nice a cold relish as cold ham ; especially 
if, instead of cutting into the middle when hot, and so letting 
out its juices, you cut it at the knuckle : slices broiled, as 
No. 487, are a good luncheon, or supper. To make pease 
pudding, and pease soup extempore, see N.B. to Nos. 218 
and 555. 

Mem. — Some persons who sell pork ready salted have a 
silly trick of cutting the knuckle in two ; we suppose that 
this is done to save their salt ; but it lets all the gravy out 
of the leg ; and unless you boil your pork merely for the 
sake of the pot-liquor, which in this case receives all the 
goodness and strength of the meat, friendly reader, your 
oracle cautions you to buy no leg of pork which is slit.at the 
knuckle. 

If pork is not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable ; 
if too much, it not only loses its colour and flavour, but its 
substance becomes soft like a jelly. 

It must never appear at table without a good pease pudding 
(see No. 555), and, if you please, parsnips (No. 128) ; they 
are an excellent vegetable, and deserve to be much more 
popular ; or carrots (No. 129), turnips, and greens, or mashed 
potatoes, &c. (No. 106.) 

Obs. — Remember not to forget the mustard-pot (No. 369, 
No. 370, and No. 427). 



BOILING. 117 

Pettitoes, or Sucking-Pig's Feet.— (No. 12.) 

Put a thin slice of bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan with 
some broth, a blade of mace, a few pepper-corns, and a bit 
of thyme ; boil the feet till they are quite tender ; this will 
take full twenty minutes ; but the heart, liver, and lights will 
be done enough in ten, when they are to be taken out, and 
minced fine. 

Put them all together into a stew-pan with some gravy; 
thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour ; season it with a 
little pepper and salt, and set it over a gentle fire to simmer 
for five minutes, frequently shaking them about. 

While this is doing, have a thin slice of bread toasted very 
lightly ; divide it into sippets, and lay them round the dish : 
pour the mince and sauce into the middle of it, and split the 
feet, and lay them round it. 

N.B. Pettitoes are sometimes boiled and dipped in batter, 
and fried a light brown. 

Obs. — If you have no gravy, put into the water you 
stew the pettitoes in an onion, a sprig of lemon thyme, or 
sweet marjoram, with a blade of bruised mace, a few black 
peppers, and a large tea-spoonful of mushroom catchup 
(No. 439), and you will have a very tolerable substitute 
for gravy. A bit of No. 252 will be a very great improve- 
ment to it. 

Bacon.— (No. 13.) 

Cover a pound of nice streaked bacon (as the Hampshire 
housewives say, that " has been starved one day, and fed 
another") with cold water, let it boil gently for three-quarters 
of an hour ; take it up, scrape the under-side well, and cut off 
the rind : grate a crust of bread not only on the top, but all 
over it, as directed for the ham in the following receipt, and 
put it before the fire for a few minutes : it must not be there 
too long, or it will dry it and spoil it. 

Two pounds will require about an hour and a half, accord- 
ing to its thickness ; the hock or gammon being very thick, 
will take more^ 

Obs. — See Nos. 526 and 527 : when only a little bacon is 
wanted, these are the best ways of dressing it. 

The boiling of bacon is a very simple subject to comment 
upon ; but our main object is to teach common cooks the 
art of dressing common food in the best manner. 

Bacon is sometimes as salt as salt can make it, therefore 
before it is boiled it must be soaked in warm water for an 



118 BOILING. 

hour or two, chang-ing the water once ; then pare off the 
rusty and smoked part, trim it nicely on the under side, and 
scrape the rind as clean as possible. 

Mem. — Bacon is an extravag-ant article in housekeeping ; 
there is often twice as much dressed as need be : when it is 
sent to table as an accompaniment to boiled poultry or veal, 
a pound and a half is plenty for a dozen people. A good 
German sausage is a very economical substitute for bacon ; 
or fried pork sausages (No. 87). 

Ham, (No. 14.) 

Though of the bacon kind, has been so altered and hardened 
in the curing, that it requires still rtiore care. 

Ham is generally not half-soaked ; as salt as brine, and 
hard as flint ; and it would puzzle the stomach of an ostrich 
to digest it. 

Mem. — The salt, seasoning, and smoke, which preserve it 
before it is eaten, prevent its solution after ; and unless it be 
very long and very gently stewed, the strongest stomach 
will have a tough job to extract any nourishment from it. 
If it is a very dry Westphalia ham, it must be soaked, ac- 
cording to its age and thickness, from 12 to 24 hours ; for a 
green Yorkshire or Westmoreland ham, from four to eight 
hours will be sufficient. Lukewann water will soften it 
much sooner than cold, when sufficiently soaked, trim it 
nicely on the underside, and pare off all the rusty and smoked 
parts till it looks delicately clean. 

lb. oz. 

A ham weighed before it was soaked 13 ., 

After 12 4 

Boiled . . 13 4 

Grimmed for tahle 10 12 

Give it plenty of water-room, and put it in while the water 
is cold; let it heat very gradually, and let it be on the fire an 
hour and a half before it comes to a boil ; let it be well 
skimmed, and keep it simmering very gently : a middling- 
sized ham of fifteen pounds will be done enough in about 
four or five hours, according to its thickness. 

If not to be cut till cold, it will cut the shorter and tenderer 
for being boiled about half an hour longer. In a very small 
family, where a ham will last a week or ten days, it is best 
economy not to cut it till it is cold, it will be infinitely more 
juicy. 

Pull off the skin carefully, and preserve it as whole as pos- 
sible ; it will form an excellent covering to keep the ham 



BOILING. 119 

moist ; when you have removed the skin, nib some bread 
rasping-s through a hair-sieve, or grate a crust of bread ; put 
it into the perforated cover of the dredg-ing-box, and shake 
it over it, or glaze it ; trim the knuckle with a fringe of cut 
writing-paper. You may garnish with spinage or tur- 
nips, &c. 

Obs. To pot ham (No. 509), is a much more useful and 
economical way of disposing of the remains of the joint, 
than making essence of it (No. 352). To make soup of the 
liquor it is boiled in, see N.B. to No. 555. 

Tongue. — (No. 15.) 

A tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying or pick- 
ling, that it requires much more cooking than a ham ; nothing 
of its weight takes so long to dress it properly. 

A tongue that has been salted and dried should be put to 
soak (if it is old and very hard, 24 hours before it is wanted) 
in plenty of water ; a green one fresh from the pickle re- 
quires soaking only a few hours : put your tongue into plenty 
of cold water ; let it be an hour gradually warming ; and 
give it from three and a half to four hours' very slow sim- 
mering, according to the size, &c. 

06s. When you choose a tongue, endeavour to learn how 
long it has been dried or pickled, pick out the plumpest, and 
that which has the smoothest skin, which denotes its being 
young and tender. 

The roots, &c. make an excellent relish potted, like No. 
509, or pease soup (No. 218). 

N.B. Our correspondent, who wished us, in this edition, 
to give a receipt to roast a tongue, will find an answer in 
No. 82. 

Turkeys, Capons, Fowls, Chickens, ^c. — (No. 16.) 

Are all boiled exactly in the same manner, only allowing 
time, according to their size. For the stuffing, &c. (Nos. 
374, 375, and 377), some of it made into balls, and boiled or 
fried, make a nice garnish, and are handy to help ; and you 
can then reserve some of the inside stuffing to eat with the 
cold fowl, or enrich the hash (Nos. 530 and 533). 

A chicken will take about ..... 20 minutes. 

A fowl 40 

A fine five-toed fowl or a capon, about an hour. 

A small turkey, an hour and a half. 

A large one, two hours or more. 



120 BOILrNG. 

Chickens or fowls should be killed at least one or two days 
before they are to be dressed. 

Turkeys (especially large ones) should not be dressed till 
they have been killed three or four days at least, in cold 
weather six or eight, or they will neither look white nor eat 
tender.* 

Turkeys, and large fowls, should have the strings or sinews 
of the thighs drawn out. 

Truss them with the legs outward, they are much easier 
carved. 

Fowls for boiling should be chosen as white as possible ; 
if their complexion is not so fair as you wish, veil them in 
No. 2 of No. 361 ; those which have black legs should be 
roasted* The best use of the liver is to make sauce (No. 
287). 

Poultry m.ust be well washed in warm water; if very 
dirty from the singeing, &c. rub them with a little white 
soap ; but thoroughly rinse it off, before you put them into 
the pot. 

Make a good and clear fire ; set on a clean pot, with pure 
and clean water, enough to well cover the turkey, &c. ; the 
slower it boils, the whiter and plumper it will be. When 
there rises any scum, remove it ; the common method of 
some (who are more nice than wise) is to wrap them up in 
a cloth, to prevent the scum attaching to them; which, if 
it does, by your neglecting to skim the pot, there is no get- 
ting it off afterward, and the poulterer is blamed for the 
fault of the cook. 

If there be water enough, and it is attentively skimmed, 
the fowl will both look and eat much better this way than 
when it has been covered up in the cleanest cloth, and the 
colour and flavour of your poultry will be preserved in the 
most delicate perfection. 

Obs. Turkey deserves to be accompanied by tongue (No. 
15), or ham (No. 14^ ; if these are not come-at-able, don't 
forget pickled pork (No. 11), or bacon and greens (Nos. 83, 
526, and 527), or pork sausages (No. 87), parsley and butter 
f No. 261) ; don't pour it over, but send it up in a boat ; liver 
(No. 287), egg (No. 267), or oyster sauce (No. 278). To 
warm cold turkey, &c. see No. 533, and following. 

To grill the gizzard and rump, No. 538. Save a quart of 

* Baker, in his Chronicle, tells us the turkey did not reach England till A. D. 1534, 
about the 15th of Henry the 8th ; he says, 

" Turkies, carps, hoppes, piccarell, and beere, 
Came into England all in one year.' 



BOILING. 121 

the liquor the turkey was boiled in ; this, with the bones and 
trimming's, &c. will make good gravy for a hash, &c. 

Rabbits.— {No. 17.) 

Truss your rabbits short, lay them in a basin of warm 
water for ten minutes, then put them into plenty of water, 
and boil them about half an hour; if large ones, three 
quarters ; if very old, an hour : smother them with plenty of 
white onion sauce (No. 298), mince the liver, and lay it 
round the dish, or make liver sauce (No. 287), and send it 
up in a boat. 

Obs. Ask those you are going to make liver sauce for, if 
they like plain liver sauce, or liver and parsley, or liver and 
lemon sauce (Nos. 287 and 288). 

N.B. It will save much trouble to the cars'er, if the rabbits 
be cut up in the kitchen into pieces fit to help at table, and 
the head divided, one-half laid at each end, and slices of 
lemon and the liver, chopped very finely, laid on the sides of 
the dish. 

At all events, cut off the head before you send it to table, 
we hardly remember that the thing ever lived if we don't see 
the head, while it may excite ugly ideas to see it cut up in 
an attitude imitative of life ; besides, for the preservation of 
the head, the poor animal sometimes suffers a slower death 

Tripe.— {No. 18.) 

Take care to have fresh tripe ; cleanse it well from the fat, 
and cut it into pieces about two inches broad and four long; 
put it into a stew-pan, and cover it with milk and water, and 
let it boil gently till it is tender. 

If the tripe has been prepared as it usually is at the tripe 
shops, it will be enough in about an hour, (this depends upon 
how long it has been previously boiled at the tripe shop) ; if 
entirely undressed, it will require two or three hours, accord- 
ing to the age and quality of it. 

Make some onion sauce in the same manner as you do for 
rabbits (No. 298), or boil (slowly by themselves) some Spa- 
nish or the whitest common onions you can get ; peel them 
before you boil them ; when they are tender, which a mid- 
dling-sized onion will be in about three-quarters of an hour, 
drain them in a hair-sieve, take off the top skins till they 
look nice and white, and put them with the tripe into a tureen 
or soup-dish, and take off the fat if any floats on the surface. 

Obs. Rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 527), or fried sau- 
sages (No. 87), are a very good accompaniment to boiled 

L 



122 ROASTING. 

tripe, cow-heels (No. 198), or calf's feet, see Mr. Mich/ 
Kelly's sauce (No. 311*), or parsley and butter (No. 261), 
or caper sauce (No. 274), with a little vinegar and mustard 
added to them, or salad mixture (No. 372 or 453). 

Tripe holds the same rank among solids, that water- 
gruel does among soups, and the former is desirable at 
dinner, when the latter is welcome at supper. Read No. 
572. 

Cow-Heel,—{No. 18.*) 

In the hands of a skilful cook, will furnish several good 
meals ; when boiled tender (No. 198), cut it into handsome 
pieces, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them a light brown ; 
lay them round a dish, and put in the middle of it sliced 
onions fried, or the accompaniments ordered for tripe. The 
liquor they were boiled in will make soups (No. 229, 240*, 
or No. 555). 

N.B. We give no receipts to boil venison, geese, ducks, 
pheasants, woodcocks, and peacocks, &c. as our aim has 
been to make a useful book, not a big one (see No. 82). 



ROASTING. 

N.B. — If the time we have allowed for roasting appears rather longer than what 
is stated in former works, we can only say, we have written from actual experiments, 
and that the difference may be accounted for, by common cooks generally being fond 
of too fierce afire, and of putting things too near to it. 

Our calculations are made for a temperature of about fifty degrees of Fahrenheit. 

Slow roasting is as advantageous to the tenderness and flavour of meat as slow 
boiling, of which every body understands the importance. See the account of Count 
Humford's shoulder of mutton. 

The warmer the weather, and the staler killed the meat is, the less time it will rfl- 
quire to roast it. 

Me-t that is very fat, reqiiires more time than we have stated. 

Beef is in proper season throughout the whole year. 

Sirloin of Beef.— {No. 19.) 

The noble sirloin* of about fifteen pounds fif much 
thicker, the outside will be done too much before tne inside 
is enough), will require to be before the fire about three and 
a half or four hours ; take care to spit it evenly, that it may 

* This joint is said to owe its name to king Charles the Second, who, dining upon 
a loin of beef, and being particularly pleased with it, asked the name of the joiut; 
said for ihj merit it sliould be knighted, and henceforth called Sir-Loin. 



ROASTING. 123 

not be heavier on one side than the other ; put a little clean 
dripping into the dripping-pan, (tie a sheet of paper over it 
to preserve the fat,*) baste it well as soon as it is put down, 
and every quarter of an hour all the time it is roasting, till 
the last half hour ; then take off the paper, and make some 
gravy for it (No. 326) ; stir the fire and make it clear : to 
brown and froth it, sprinkle a little salt over it, baste it with 
butter, and dredge it with flour; let it go a few minutes 
longer, till the froth rises, take it up, put it on the dish, «&;c. 

Garnish it with hillocks of horseradish, scraped as fine as 
possible with a very sharp knife, (Nos. 458 and 399*). A 
Yorkshire pudding is an excellent accompaniment (No. 595, 
or No. 554). 

Obs. The inside of the sirloin must never be cutf hot, but 
reserved entire for the hash, or a mock hare (No. 67*). (For 
various ways of dressing the inside of the sirloin. No. 483 ; 
for the receipt to hash or broil beef. No. 484, and Nos. 486 
and 487 ; and for other ways of employing the remains of a 
joint of cold beef, Nos. 503, 4, 5, 6). 

Ribs of Beef.— (No. 20). 

The first three ribs, of fifteen or twenty pounds, will take 
three hours, or three and a half: the fourth and fifth ribs will 
take as long, managed in the same way as the sirloin. 

* " In the present fashion of fattening cattle, it is more desirable to toast 
away the fat than to preserve it. If the honourable societies of agriculturists, at 
the time ihey consulted a learned professor about the composition of manures, had 
consulted some competent authority on the nature of animal substances, the public 
might have escaped the overgrown corpulency of the animal flesh, which every 
where fills the markets." — Domestic Manrigementy 12mo. 1813, p. 182. 

"Game, and other wild animals proper for food, are of very superior qualities to 
the tame, from the total contrast of the circumstances attending them. Tliey have 
a free range of exercise in the open air, and choose their own food, the good effects 
of which are very evident in a short, delicate texture of flesh, found only in them. 
Their juices and flavour jire more pure, and their fat, when it is in any degree, as 
in venison, and some other instances, differs as much from that of our fatted 
animals, as silver and gold from the grosser metals. The superiority of VVelch 
mutton and Scotch beef is owing to a similar cause." — Ibid, p. 150. 

If there is more fat than you think \\ ill bo eaten with the meat, cut it off; it wiil 
make an excellent pudding (No. 554) ; or clarify it, (I^o. 84) and ust ir r.r ^-ying: 
for those who like their meat done thoroughly, and use a moderate fire for roasting, 
the fat need not be covered with paper. 

If ijour beef is large, and your family small, cut off the thin end and salt it, and 
cut out and dress the fillet (?. e. commonly called the inside) next day as mock hare 
(No. 67*) : thus you get three good hot dinners. See also No. 483, on made dishes. 
For SADCE for cold beef, see No. 359, cucumber vinegar, No. 399, and ho SHradiah 
vinegar, Nos. 399* and 458. 

t "This joint is often spoiled for the next day's >ise, by an injudicious mode of 
carving. If you object to the outside, take the brown off, and help the next : by the 
cutting it only on one side, you preserve the gravy in the meat, and the soodly ap- 
pearance aiso ; by cutting it, on the contrary, down the middle of this joint, all the 
gravy runs out, it becomes dry, and exhibits a most unseemly aspect when brought 
to table a second time." — From Ude's Cookery, 8vo. 1818, p- 109. 



124 ROASTING. 

Paper the fat, and the thin part, or it will be done too much,' 
before the thick part is done enough. 

N.B. A pig-iron placed before it on the bars of the grate 
answers every purpose of keeping the thin part from being 
too much done. 

Obs. Many persons prefer the ribs to the sirloin. 

Ribs of Beef boned and rolled. — (No. 21.) 

When you have kept two or three ribs of beef till quite' 
tender, take out the bones, and skewer it as round as possible 
(like a fillet of veal) : before they roll it, some cooks egg it,' 
and sprinkle it with veal stuffing (No. 374). As the meat is 
more in a solid mass, it will require more time at the fire than 
in the preceding receipt ; a piece of ten or twelve pounds 
weight will not be well and thoroughly roasted in less than 
four and a half or five hoars. j 

For the first half hour, it should not be less than twelve 
inches from the fire, that it may get gradually warm to the 
centre : the last half hour before it will be finished, sprinkle 
a little salt over it ; and if you wish to froth it, flour it, &c. 

MUTTOJV*—{No. 23.) 

As beef requires a large, sound fire, mutton must have a 
brisk and sharp one. If you wish to have mutton tender, it 
should be hung almost as long as it will keep ;t and then 

* Dean Swift's receipt to roast mutton. 
To GsMiNiANi's beautiful air — " Gently touch the warbling lyre'* 

" Gently stir and blow the fire, 
Lay the mutton down to roast, 

Dress it quickly, I desire. 
In the dripping put a toost, 

That I hunger may remove; — 

Mutton is the meat I love. 

" On the dresser see it lie ; 

Oh! the charming white and red! 

Finer meat ne'er met the eye, 
On the sweetest grass it fed ; 

Let the jack go swiftly round. 

Let me have it nicely brown'd. 

•' On the table spread the cloth. 
Let the knives be sharp and clean, 

Pickles get and salad both, 
Let them ecich be fresh and green. 

With small beer, good ale, and wine, 

O, ye gods ! how I shall dine I" 

t See the chapter of apvick to cooks. 



BOASTING. 125 

good eight-tooth, i. e. four years old mutton, is as good eat- 
ing as venison, if it is accompanied by Nos. 329 and 346. 

The leg, haunch, and saddle will be the better for being 
hung up in a cool airy place for four or five days at least ; in 
temperate weather, a week ; in cold weather, ten days. 

If you think your mutton will not be tender enough to do 
honour to the spit, dress it as a '"'' gigot de sept heures." See 
N.B. to No. 1 and No. 493. 

A Leg,— (No. 24.) 

Of eight pounds, will take about two hours : let it be well 
basted, and frothed in the same manner as directed in No. 19. 
To hash mutton. No. 484. To broil it, No. 487, &c. 

A Chine or Saddle, — (No. 26.) 

({. c. the two loins') of ten or eleven pounds, two hours and 
a half: it is the business of the butcher to take off the skin 
and skewer it on again, to defend the meat from extreme 
heat, and preserve its succulence ; if this is neglected, tie a 
sheet of paper over it (baste the strings you tie it on with 
directly, or they will bum) : about a quarter of an hour before 
you think it will be done, take off the skin or paper, that it 
may get a pale brown colour, then baste it and flour it lightly 
to froth it. We like No. 346 for sauce. 

N.B. Desire the butcher to cut off the flaps and the tail 
and chump end, and trim away every part that has not indis- 
putable pretensions to be eaten. This will reduce a saddle 
of eleven pomids weight to about six or seven pounds, 

A Shoulder— (No, 27.) 

Of seven pounds, an hour and a half. Put the spit in close 
to the shank-bone, and run it along the blade-bone. 

N.B. The blade-bone is a favourite luncheon or supper 
relish, scored, peppered and salted, and broiled, or done in a 
Dutch oven. 

A Loin*— {No. 28.) 

Of mutton, from an hour and a half to an hour and three 
quarters. The most elegant way of carving this, is to cut it 
lengthwise, as you do a saddle : read No. 26. 

* Common cooks very seldom brown the ends of necks and loins ; to have this 
done nicely, let the fire be a few inches longer at each end than the joint that is 
roasting, and occasionally place the spit slanting, so that each end may get siifiicient 
fire ; otherwise, after the meat is done, you must take it up, and put the ends before 
(be fire. 

L3 



126 ROASTING. 

N.B. Spit it on a skewer or lark spit, and tie that on the 
common spit, and do not spoil the meat by running the spit 
through the prime part of it. 

A JVecfc,— (No. 29.) 

About the same time as a loin. It must be carefully jointed, 
or it is very difficult to carve. The neck and breast are, in 
small families, commonly roasted together; the cook will 
then crack the bones across the middle before they are put 
down to roast : if this is not done carefully, they are very 
troublesome to carve. Tell the cook, when she takes it from 
the spit, to separate them before she sends them to table. 

Obs. — If there is more fat than you think will be eaten with 
the lean, cut it off, and it will make an excellent suet pud- 
ding (No. 551, or No. 554). 

N.B. The best way to spit this is to run iron skewers 
across it, and put the spit between them. 

A Breast,— (No. 30.) 

An hour and a quarter ' 

To grill a breast of mutton, see Obs. to No. 38. 

A Haunch,— {No. 31.) 

(i. e. the leg and part of the loin) of mutton : send up two 
sauce-boats with it ; one of rich mutton gravy, made without 
spice or herbs (No. 347), and the other of sweet sauce (No. 
346). It generally weighs about 15 pounds, and requires 
about three hours and a half to roast it. 

Mutton, venison fashion. — (No. 32.) 

Take a neck of good four or five years old Southdown 
wether mutton, cut long in the bones ; let it hang (in tempe- 
rate weather) at least a week : two days before you dress it, 
take allspice and black pepper, ground and pounded fine, a 
quarter of an ounce each ; rub them together, and then rub 
your mutton well with this mixture twice a day. When you 
dress it, wash off the spice with warm water, and roast in 
paste, as we have ordered the haunch of venison. (No. 63). 

Obs. — Persevering and ingenious epicures have invented 
many methods to give mutton the flavour of venison. Some 
say that mutton, prepared as above, may be mistaken for 
venison; others, that it is full as good. The refined palate 
of a grand gourmand (in spite of the spice and wine the meat 
has been fuddled and rubbed with) will perhaps still protest 



ROASTING. 127 

against " Welch venison ;" and indeed we do not understand 
by what conjuration allspice and claret can communicate the 
flavour of venison to mutton. We confess our fears that the 
flavour of venison (especially of its fat) is inimitable; but 
believe you may procure prime eight-toothed wether mutton, 
keep it the proper time, and send it to table with the accom- 
paniments (Nos. 346 and 347, &c.) usually given to venison, 
and a rational epicure will eat it with as much satisfaction 
as he would " feed on the king's fallow deer." 

FEAL.—iNo. 33.) 

Veal requires particular care to roast it a nice brown. 
Let the fire be the same as for beef; a sound large fire for a 
large joint, and a brisker for a smaller ; put it at some distance 
from the fire to soak thoroughly, and then draw it near to 
finish it brown. 

"When first laid down, it is to be basted ; baste it again 
occasionally. W^hen the veal is on the dish, pour over it half 
a pint of melted butter (No. 256) : if you have a little brown 
gravy by you, add that to the butter (No. 326). With those 
joints which are not stuffed, send up forcemeat (No. 374, or 
No. 375) in balls, or rolled into sausages, as garnish to the 
dish, or fried pork sausages (No. 87) ; bacon (No. 13, or No. 
526, or No. 527), and greens, are also always expected with 
veal. 

Fillet of Feal,— (No. 34.) 

Of from, twelve to sixteen pounds, will require from four 
to five hours at a good fire ; make some stuflEiDg or forcemeat 
(No. 374 or 5), and put it in under the flap, that there may 
be some left to eat cold, or to season a hash ;* brown it, 
and pour good melted butter (No. 266) over it, as directed 
in No. 33. 

Garnish with thin slices of lemon and cakes or balls of 
stuffing, or No. 374, or No. 375, or duck stuffing (No. 61), 
or fried pork sausages (No. 87), curry sauce (No. 348), bacon 
(No. 13), and greens, &c. 

N.B. Potted veal (No. 533). 

Obs. — A bit of the brown outside is a favourite with the 
epicure in roasts. The kidney, cut out, sliced, and broiled 
(No. 358), is a high relish, which some bons vivants are 
fond of. 

• To MiNCK or HASH VKAL, sce No. 511, or 511*. and to make a ragout of cold 
veal, No. 512. 



128 ROASTING. 

A Loin,— {No. 35.) 

Is the best part of the calf, and will take about three 
hours roasting. Paper the kidney fat, and the back : some 
cooks send it up on a toast, which is eaten with the kid- 
ney and the fat of this part, which is as delicate as any 
marrow. If there is more of it than you think will be 
eaten with the veal, before you roast it cut it out ; it will 
make an excellent suet pudding : take care to have your 
fire long enough to brown the ends ; same accompaniments 
as No. 34. 

A Shoulder,— (No. 36.) 

From three hours to three hours and a half; stuJBf it with 
the forcemeat ordered for the fillet of veal, in the under side, 
or balls made of No. 374. 

JVeck, best end, — (No. 37.) 

Will take two hours ; same accompaniments as No. 34. 
The scrag part is best made into a pie, or broth. 

Breast,— {No. 38.) 

From an hour and a half to two hours. Let the caul 
remain till it is almost done, then take it off to brown it ; 
baste, flour, and froth it. 

Obs. — This makes a savoury relish for a luncheon or 
supper : or, instead of roasting, boil it enough ; put it in a 
cloth between two pewter dishes, with a weight on the upper 
one, and let it remain so till cold ; then pare and trim, egg, 
and crumb it, and broil, or warm it in a Dutch oven ; serve 
with it capers (No. 274), or wow wow sauce (No. 328). 
Breast of mutton may be dressed the same way. 

Feal Sweetbread.— {No. 39.) 

Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh) ; parboil it 
for five minutes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. 
Roast it plain, or 

Beat up the yelk of an egg, and prepare some fine bread- 
crumbs : when the sweetbread is cold, dry it thorougldy in 
a cloth ; run a lark-spit or a skewer through it, and tie it on 
the ordinary spit ; egg it with a paste-brush ; powder it well 
with bread-crumbs, and roast it. 

For sauce, fried bread-crumbs round it, and melted butter, 
with a little mushroom catchup (No. 439), and lemon- 



E0ASTIN6. 129 

juice (Nos. 307, 354, or 356), or serve them on buttered 
toast, garnished with egg sauce (No. 267), or with gravy 
{No. 329). 

Obs. — Instead of spitting them, you may put them into a 
tin Dutch oven, or fry them (Nos. 88, 89, or 513). 

LAMB— {No. 40.) 

Is a delicate, and commonly considered tender meat ; but 
those who talk of tender lamb, while they are thinking ot 
the age of the animal, forget that even a chicken must be 
kept a proper time after it has been killed, or it will be tough 
picking. 

Woful experience has warned us to beware of accepting 
an invitation to dinner on Easter Sunday, unless commanded 
by a thorough-bred gourmand ; our incisores, molares, andpriu' 
cipal viscera have protested against the imprudence of 
encountering young, tough, stringy mutton, under the misno- 
men of grass lamb. The proper name for " Easter grass 
lamb" is " hay mutton." 

To the usual accompaniments of roasted meat, green 
mint sauce (No. 303), a salad (Nos. 372 and 138*), is 
commonly added; and some cooks, about five minutes 
before it is done, sprinkle it with a little fresh gathered and 
finely minced parsley, or No. 318: lamb, and all young 
meats, ought to be thoroughly done ; therefore do not 
take either lamb or veal off the spit till you see it drop 
white gravy. 

Grass lamb is in season from Easter to Michaelmas. 

House lamb from Christmas to Lady-day. 

Sham lamb, see Obs. to following receipt. 

N.B. When green mint cannot be got, mint vinegar (No. 
398) is an acceptable substitute for it ; and crisp parsley 
(No. 318), on a side plate, is an admirable accompaniment. 

Hind-Quarter, — (No. 41). 

Of eight pounds, will take from an hour and three-quarters 
to two hours : baste and froth it in the same way as directed 
in No. 19. 

Obs. — A quarter of a porkling is sometimes skinned, cut, 
and dressed lamb-fashion, and sent up as a substitute for it. 
The leg and the loin of lamb, when little, should be roasted 
together ; the former being lean, the latter fat, and the gravy 
is better preserved. 



130 ROASTING. 

Fore-Quarter, — (No. 42.) ',; 

Of ten pounds, about two hours. 

N.B. It is a pretty general custom, when you take ofF the 
shoulder from the ribs, to squeeze a Seville orange over 
them, and sprinkle them with a little pepper and salt. 

Obs. — This may as well be done by the cook before it 
comes to table ; some people are not remarkably expert at 
dividing these joints nicely. 

Leg,— {No. 43.) 
Of five pounds, from an hour to an hour and a half. 

Shoulder,— {No, 44.) 

With a quick fire, an hour. 

See Obs. to No. 27. 

Eibs,—{No. 45.) 

About an hour to an hour and a quarter : joint it nicely, 
crack the ribs across, and divide them from the brisket after 
it is roasted. 

Lorn,— (No. 46.) 
An hour and a quarter. 

JVeck,—{No. 47.) 
An hour. 

Breast,— {No. 48.) 
Three-quarters of an hour. 

PORK.— {No. 49.) 

The prime season for pork is from Michaelmas to March. 

Take particular care it be done enough : other meats 
under-done are unpleasant, but pork is absolutely uneatable ; 
the sight of it is enough to appal the sharpest appetite, if its 
gravy has the least tint of redness. 

Be careful of the crackling; if this be not crisp, or if it be 
burned, you will be scolded. 

For sauces, No. 300, No. 304, and No. 342. 

Obs. — Pease pudding (No. 555) is as good an accompani- 
ment to roasted, as it is to boiled pork ; and most palates are 
pleased with the savoury powder set down in No. 51, or 



ROASTING. 131 

bread-crumbs, mixed with sage and onion, minced very fine, 
or zest (No. 255) sprinkled over it. 

N.B. " The western pigs, from Berks, Oxford, and Bucks, 
possess a decided superiority over the eastern, of Essex, 
Sussex, and Norfolk; not to forget another qualification 
of the former, at which some readers may smile, a thick- 
ness of the skin ; whence the crackling of the roasted pork 
is a fine gelatinous substance, which may be easily mas- 
ticated; while the crackling of the thin-skinned breeds is 
roasted into good block tin, the reduction of which would 
almost require teeth of iron." — Moubray on Poultry., 1816, 
page 242. 

A Leg,— (No, 50.) 

Of eight pounds, will require about three hours : score the 
skin across in narrow stripes (some score it in diamonds), 
about a quarter of an inch apart ; stuff the knuckle with sage 
and onion, minced fine, and a little grated bread, seasoned 
with pepper, salt, and the yelk of an egg. See Duck Stuffing, 
(No. 61.) 

Do not put it too near the fire : rub a little sweet oil on 
the skin with a paste-brush, or a goose-feather : this makes 
the crackling crisper and browner than basting it with drip- 
ping ; and it will be a better colour than all the art of cookery 
can make it in any other way ; and this is the best way of 
preventing the skin from blistering, which is principally 
occasioned by its being put too near the fire. 

Leg of Pork roasted without the Skin, commonly called 
Mock Goose.* — (No. 51.) 

Parboil it ; take off the skin^ and then put it down to roast ; 
baste it with butter, and make a savoury powder of finely 
minced, or dried and powdered sage, ground black pepper, 
salt, and some bread-crumbs, rubbed together through a 
colander; you may add to this a little very finely minced 
onion : sprinkle it with this when it is almost roasted. Put 
half a pint of made gravy into the dish, and goose stuffing 
(No. 378) under the knuckle skin ; or garnish the dish with 
balls of it fried or boiled. 

* Priscilla Haslehurst, in her Housekeeper's Instructor, 8vo. Sheffield, 1819, p. 
19, gives us a receipt " to goosify a shoulder of lamb." " Un grand Cuisinier," in- 
formed me that " to lambify" the leg of a porkling is a favourite metamorphosis in 
tiie Frencli kitchen, when house lamb is very dear. 



132 KOASTING. 

The Griskin,— {No. 52.) 

Of seven or eig-ht pounds, may be dressed in the same 
manner. It will take an hour and a half roasting. 

A Bacon Spare-Rib, — (No. 53.) 

Usually weighs about eight or nine pounds, and will take 
from two to three hours to roast it thoroughly ; not exactly 
according to its weight, but the thickness of the meat upon 
it, which varies very much. Lay the thick end nearest to 
the fire. 

A proper bald spare-rib of eight pounds weight (so called 
because almost all the meat is pared off), with a steady fire, 
will be done in an hour and a quarter. There is so little 
meat on a bald spare-rib, that if you have a large, fierce fire, 
it will be burned before it is warm through. Joint it nicely, 
and crack the ribs across as you do ribs of lamb. 

When you put it down to roast, dust on some flour, and 
baste it Avith a little butter ; dry a dozen sage leaves, and 
rub them through a hair-sieve, and put them into the top of 
a pepper-box; and about a quarter of an hour before the 
meat is done, baste it with butter ; dust the pulverized sage, 
or the savoury powder in No. 51 ; or sprinkle with duck 
stuffing (No. 61). 

Obs. — Make it a general rule never to pour gravy over any 
thing that is roasted ; by so doing, the dredging, &c. is washed 
off, and it eats insipid. 

Some people carve a spare-rib by cutting out in slices the 
thick part at the bottom of the bones. When this meat is 
cut away, the bones may be easily separated, and are es- 
teemed very sweet picking. 

Apple sauce (No. 304), mashed potatoes (No. 106), and 
good mustard (No. 370,) are indispensable. 

Loin, — (No. 54.) 

Of five pounds, must be kept at a good distance from the 
fire on account of the crackling, and v/ill take about two 
hours ; if very fat, half an hour longer. 

Stuff it with duck stuffing (No. 378). Score the skin in 
stripes, about a quarter of an inch apart, and rub it with salad 
oil, as directed in No. 50. You may sprinkle over it some 
of the savoury powder recommended for the mock goose 
(No. 51). 



BOASTING. 133 

A Chine.— {No. 55.) 

If parted down the back-bone so as to have but one side, 
a g-ood fire will roast it in two hours ; if not parted, three 
hours. 

N.B. Chines are g-enerally salted and boiled. 

A Sucking-Pig*—{No. 56.) 

Is in prime order for the spit when about three weeks old. 

It loses part of its goodness every hour after it is killed ; 
if not quite fresh, no art can make the crackling- crisp. 

To be in perfection, it should be killed in the morning to 
be eaten at dinner : it requires very careful roasting-. A 
sucking-pig-, like a young child, must not be left for an instant. 

The ends must have much more fire than the middle : for 
this purpose is contrived an iron to hang before the middle 
part, called a pig-iron. If you have not this, use a common 
flat iron, or keep the fire fiercest at the two ends. 

For the stuffing, take of the crumb of a stale loaf about 
five ounces ; rub it through a colander ; mince fine a handful 
of sage {i. e. about two omices), and a large onion (about 
an omice and a halff). Mix these together with an Ggg^ 
some pepper and salt, and a bit of butter as big as an egg. 
Fill the belly of the pig with this, and sew it up: lay it to 
the fire, and baste it with salad oil till it is quite done. Do 
not leave it a moment : it requires the most vigilant attend- 
ance. 

Roast it at a clear, brisk fire at some distance. To gain 
the praise of epicurean pig-eaters, the crackling must be 
nicely crisped and delicately lightly browned, without being 
either blistered or burnt. 

A small, three weeks old pig will be done enough| in about 
an hour and a half. 

Before you take it from the fire, cut off the head, and part 
that and the body down the middle : chop the brains very 
fine, with some boiled sage leaves, and mix them with good 

* MoNS. Grimod designates this " Animal modeste, ennevii du faste, et le roi des 
animaux immondes.^' Maitland, in p. 758, of vol. ii. of his History of London^ 
reckons tliat the number of sucking-pigs consumed in the city of London in the 
year 1725, amounted to 52,000. 

T Some delicately sensitive palates desire the cook to parboil the sage and onions 
(before they are cut), to soften and takeoff the rawness of their flavour ; the older 
and drier the onion, the stronger will be its flavour ; and the learned Evelyn orders 
these to be edulcorated by gentle maceration. 

I An ancient culinary sage says, " When you see a pig's eyes drop out, you may 
be satisfied he has had enough of the fire!" This is no criterion that the body of 
the pig is done enough, but arises merely from the briskness of the fire before the 
head of it. 

M 



134 ROASTING. 

veal gravy, made as directed in No. 192, or beef gravy (No^ 
329), or what runs from the pig Avhen you cut its head off. 
Send up a tureenful of gravy (No. 329) besides. Currant 
sauce is still a favourite with some of the old school. 

Lay your pig back to back in the dish, with one half of the 
head on each side, and the ears one at each end, which you 
must take care to make nice and crisp; or you will get 
scolded, and deservedly, as the silly fellow was who bought 
his wife a pig with only one ear. 

When you cut off the pettitoes, leave the skin long round 
the ends of the legs. When you first lay the pig before the 
fire, rub it all over with fresh butter or salad oil : ten minutes 
after, and the skin looks dry ; dredge it well with flour all 
over, let it remain on an hour, then rub it off with a soft cloth. 

N. B. A pig is a very troublesome subject to roast ; most 
persons have them baked. Send a quarter of a pound of 
butter, and beg the baker to baste it well. 

Turkey, Turkey Poults, and other Poultry. — (No. 57.) 

A fowl and a turkey require the same management at the 
fire, only the latter will take longer time. 

Many a Christmas dinner has been spoiled by the turkey 
having been hung up in a cold larder, and becoming 
thoroughly frozen ; Jack Frost has ruined the reputation of 
many a turkey-roaster: therefore, in very cold weather, 
remember the note in the 5th page of the 2d chapter of the 
Rudiments of Cookery. 

Let them be carefully picked, &c. and break the breast- 
bone (to make them look plump), twist up a sheet of clean 
writing-paper, light it, and thoroughly singe the turkey all 
over, turning it about over the flame. 

Turkeys, fowls, and capons have a much better appearance, 
if, instead of trussing them with the legs close together, and 
the feet cut off, the legs are extended on each side of the bird, 
and the toes only cut off, with a skewer through each foot, 
to keep them at a proper distance. 

Be careful, when you draw it, to preserve the liver, and not 
to break the gall-bag, as no washing will take off the bitter 
taste it gives, where it once touches. 

Prepare a nice, clear, brisk fire for it. 

Make stuffing according to No. 374, or 376 ; stuff it under 
the breast, where the craw was taken out, and make some 
into balls, and boil or fry them, and lay them round the dish ; 
they are handy to help, and you can then reserve some of th€ 
inside stuffing to eat with the cold turkey, or to enrich a 
hash (No. 533). 



ROASTING. 135 

Score the gizzard, dip it into the yelk of an egg or melted 
butter, and sprinkle it with salt and a few grains of Cayenne ; 
put it under one pinion and the liver under the other ; cover 
the liver with buttered paper, to prevent it from getting 
hardened or burnt. 

When you first put a turkey down to roast, dredge it with 
flour ; then put about an ounce of butter into a basting-ladle, 
and as it melts, baste the bird therewith. 

Keep it at a distance from the fire for the first half hour, 
that it may Avarm gradually ; then put it nearer, and when it 
is plumped up, and the steam draws in towards the fire, it is 
nearly enough ; then dredge it lightly with flour, and put a 
bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and as it melts, baste 
the turkey with it ; this will raise a finer froth than can be 
produced by using the fat out of the pan. 

A very large turkey will require about three hours to roast 
it thoroughly ; a middling-sized one, of eight or ten pounds 
(which is far nicer eating than the very large one), about 
two hours ; a small one may be done in an hour and a half. 

Turkej^pouM? are of various sizes, and will take about an 
hour and a half; they should be trussed, with their legs 
twisted under like a duck, and the head under the wing like 
a pheasant. 

Fried pork sausages (No. 87) are a very savoury and fa- 
vourite accompaniment to either roasted or boiled poultry. 
A turkey thus garnished is called " an alderman in chains." 

Sausage-meat is sometimes used as stufiing, instead of 
the ordinary forcemeat. (No. 376, &c.) 

Mem. If you wish a turkey, especially a very large one, 
to be tender, never dress it till at least four or five days (in 
cold weather, eight or ten) after it has been killed. " No 
man who understands good living will say, on such a day I 
will eat that turkey ; but will hang it up by four of the large 
tail-feathers, and when, on paying his morning visit to the 
larder, he finds it lying upon a cloth prepared to receive it 
when it falls, that day let it be cooked." 

Hen turkeys are preferable to cocks for whiteness and 
tenderness, and the small fleshy ones with black legs are 
most esteemed. 

Send up with them oyster (No. 278), egg (No. 267), bread 
(No. 221), and plenty of gravy sauce (No. 329). To hash 
turkey. No. 533. 

Mem. Some epicures are very fond of the gizzard and 
rump, peppered and salted, and broiled. (See No. 538, " how 
to dress a devil with veritable sauce dfeiifer I .'") 



136 ROASTING. 

Capons or Fowls, — (No. 58.) 

Must be killed a couple of days in moderate, and more in 
cold weather, before they are dressed, or they will eat tough : 
a good criterion of the ripeness of poultry for the spit, is 
the ease with which you can then pull out the feathers ; 
when a fowl is plucked, leave a few to help you to ascertain 
this. 

They are managed exactly in the same manner, and sent 
up with the same sauces as a turkey, only they require pro- 
portionably less time at the fire. 

A full-grown five-toed fowl, about an hour and a quarter. 

A moderate-sized one, an hour. 

A chicken, from thirty to forty minutes. 

Here, also, pork sausages fried (No. 87) are in general a 
favourite accompaniment, or turkey stuffing; see force- 
meats (Nos. 374, 5, 6, and 7) ; put in plenty of it, so as to 
plump out the fowl, which must be tied closely (both at the 
neck and rump), to keep in the stuffing. 

Some cooks put the liver of the fowl into this forcemeat, 
and others mince it and pound it, and rub it up with flour and 
melted butter (No. 287). 

When the bird is stuffed and trussed, score the gizzard 
nicely, dip it into melted butter, let it drain, and then season 
it with Cayenne and salt ; put it under one pinion, and the 
liver under the other ; to prevent their getting hardened or 
scorched, cover them with double paper buttered. 

Take care that your roasted poultry be well browned ; it 
is as indispensable that roasted poultry should have a rich 
brown complexion, as boiled poultry should have a delicate 
white one. 

Obs. " The art of fattening poultry for the market is a 
considerable branch of rural economy in some convenient 
situations, and consists in supplying them with plenty of 
healthy food, and confining them; and ducks and geese 
must be prevented from going into water, which prevents 
them from becoming fat, and they also thereby acquire a 
rancid, fishy taste. They are put into a dark place, and 
crammed with a paste made of barley meal, mutton-suet, 
and some treacle or coarse sugar mixed with milk, and are 
found to be completely ripe in a fortnight. If kept longer, 
the fever that is induced by this continued state of repletion 
renders them red and unsaleable, and frequently kills them." 
But exercise is as indispensable to the health of poultry as 
other creatures ; without it, the fat will be all accumulated in 
the cellular membrane, instead of being dispersed through 



ROASTIIVG. 137 

its system. See Moubray on breeding and fattening domestic 
Poultry, 12mo. 1819. 

Fowls which are fattened artificially are by some epicures 
preferred to those called barn-door fowls ; whom we have 
heard say, that they should as soon think of ordering a barn- 
door for dinner as a barn-door fowl. 

The ag-e of poultry makes all the difference : nothing is 
tenderer than a young chicken ; few things are tougher than 
an old cock or hen, which is only fit to make broth. The 
meridian of perfection of poultry is just before they have 
come to their full growth, before they have begun to harden. 

For sauces, see No. 305, or liver and parsley, No. 287, 
and those ordered in the last receipt. To hash it, No. 533. 

Goose.— (No. 59.) 

When a goose is well picked, singed, and cleaned, make 
the stuffing with about two oimces of onion,* and half as 
much green sage, chop them very fine, adding four ounces, 
i. e. about a large breakfast-cupfid of stale bread-crumbs, a 
bit of butter about as big as a walnut, and a very little pep- 
per and salt (to this some cooks add half the liver,t par- 
boiling it first), the yelk of an egg or two, and incorporating 
the whole well together, stuff the goose ; do not quite fill it, 

* If you tliink the flavour of raw onions too strong, cut them in sHces, and lay 
them in cold water for a couple of hours, or add as much apple or potato as you 
have of onion. 

t Although the whole is rather too luscious for the lingual nei-ves of the good 
folks of Great Britain, the livers of poultry are considered a very high relish by our 
continental neighbours ; and the following directions how to procure them in per- 
fection, we copy from tlie recipe of " un Vieil Amateur de Bonne Chire." 

" The liver of a duck, or a goose, which has submitted to the rules and orders that 
men of taste have invented for the amusement of his sebaceous glands, is a super- 
lative exquisite to the palate of a Parisian epicure ; but, alas '. the poor goose, to 
produce this darling dainty, must endure sad torments. He must be crammed with 
meat, deprived of drink, and kept constantly before a hot fire : a miserable martyr- 
dom indeed ! and would be truly intolerable if his reflections on the consequences 
of his sutTerings did not afford him some consolation; but the glorious prospect of 
the delightful growth of his liver gives him courage and support; and when he 
thinks how speedily it will become almost as big as his body, how high it will rank 
on the list of double relishes, and with what ecstasies it will be eaten by the fanciers 
" des Foies grassy he submits to his destiny without a sigh. The famous Strasburg 
pies are made with livers thus prepared, and sell for an enormous price." 

However incredible this ordonnance for the obesitation of a goose's liver may ap- 
pear at first sight, will it not seem equally so to after-ages, that in this enlightened 
country, in 1821, we encouraged a folly as much greater, as its operation was more 
universal 7 Will it be believed, that it was then considered the acme of perfection 
in beef and mutton, that it should be so ooer-fattened, that a poor man, to obtain one 
pound of meat that he could eat, must purchase another which he could not, unless 
converted into a suet pudding : moreover, that the highest premiums were annually 
awarded to those who produced sheep and oxen in the most extreme state of worfiid 
obesity 7 1 ! 

" expensive plans 

For deluging of dripping-pans." 

M2 



138 ROASTING. 

but leave a little room for the stuffing to swell ; spit it, tie 
it on the spit at both ends, to prevent its swinging- round, and 
to keep the stuffing from coming out. From an hour and a 
half to an hour and three-quarters, will roast a fine full- 
grown goose. Send up gravy and apple sauce with it (see 
Nos. 300, 304, 329, and 341). To hash it, see No. 530. 

For another stuffing for geese, see No. 378. 

Obs. " Goose-feeding in the vicinity of the metropolis is 
so large a concern, that one person annually feeds for market 
upwards of 5000." " A goose on a farm in Scotland, two 
years since, of the clearly ascertained age of 89 years, 
healthy and vigorous, was killed by a sow while sitting over 
her eggs ; it was supposed she might have lived many years, 
and her fecundity appeared to be permanent. Other geese 
have been proved to reach the age of 70 years." Moubray 
on Poultry, p. 40. 

It appears in Dr. Stark's Experiments on Diet, p. 110, 
that " when he fed upon roasted goose, he was more vigor- 
ous both in body and mind than with any other diet." 

The goose at Michaelmas is as famous in the mouths of 
the million, as the minced-pie at Christmas ; but for those 
who eat with delicacy, it is by that time too full-grown. 

The true period when the goose is in its highest perfec- 
tion, is when it has just acquired its full growth, and not 
begun to harden. If the March goose is insipid, the Michael- 
mas goose is rank ; the fine time is between both, from the 
second week in June to the first in September : the leg is 
not the most tender part of a goose. See Mock Goose 
(No. 51). 

Green Goose. — (No. 60.) 

Geese are called green till they are about four months old. 

The only difference between roasting these and a full- 
grown goose, consists in seasoning it with pepper and salt 
instead of sage and onion, and roasting it for forty or fifty 
minutes only. 

Obs. This is one of the least desirable of those insipid 
premature productions, which are esteemed dainties. 

Duck.— {No. 61.) 

Mind your duck is well cleaned, and wiped out with a clean 
cloth : for the stuffing, take an ounce of onion and half an 
ounce of green sage ; chop them very fine, and mix them 
with two ounces, i. e. about a breakfast-cupful, of bread- 
crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a Avalnut, a very little 



BOASTING. 139 

black pepper and salt, (some obtuse palates may require 
warming' with a little Cayenne, No. 404,) and the yelk of an 
egg to bind it ; mix these thoroughly together, and put into 
the duck. For another stuffing-, see No. 378. From half to 
three-quarters of an hour will be enough to roast it, accord- 
ing to the size : contrive to have the feet delicately crisp, as 
some people are very fond of them ; to do this nicely you 
must have a sharp fire. For sauce, green pease (No. 134), 
bonne bouche (No. 341), gravy sauce (No. 329), and sage 
and onion sauce (No. 300). 

To hash or stew ducks, see No. 530. 

N.B. If you think the raw onion will make too strong- 
an impression upon the palate, parboil it. Read Obs. to 
No. 59. ; 

To ensure ducks being tender, in moderate weather kill 
them a few days before you dress them. 

Haunch of Venison. — (No. 63.) 

To preserve the fat, make a paste of flour and water, as 
much as will cover the haunch ; wipe it with a dry cloth in 
every part ; rub a large sheet of paper all over with butter, 
and cover the venison with it ; then roll out the paste about 
three-quarters of an inch thick ; lay this all over the fat side, 
and cover it well with three or four sheets of strong white 
paper, and tie it securely on with packthread : have a strong, 
close fire, and baste your venison as soon as you lay it down 
to roast (to prevent the paper and string from burning) ; it 
must be well basted all the time. 

A buck haunch generally weighs from 20 to 25 pounds ; will 
take about four hours and a half roasting in wann, and longer 
in cold weather : a haunch of from 12 to 18 pounds will be 
done in about three or three and a half. 

A quarter of an hour before it is done, the string must be 
cut, and the paste carefully taken off"; now baste it with 
butter, dredge it lightly with flour, and when the froth rises, 
and it has got a very light brown colour, garnish the knuckle- 
bone with a ruffle of cut writing-paper, and send it up, with 
good, strong (but unseasoned) gravy (No. 347) in one boat, 
and currant-jelly sauce in the other, or currant-jelly in a side 
plate (not melted): see for sauces, Nos. 344, 5, 6, and 7. 
Mem. " the alderman's waW is the favourite part. 

06s. Buck venison is in greatest perfection from midsum- 
mer to Michaelmas, and doe from November to January. 



140 ROASTING. 

Keck and Shoulder of Venison, — (No. 64.) 

Are to be manag-ed in the same way as the haunch ; only 
they do not require the coat or paste, and will not take so 
much time. 

The best way to spit a neck is to put three skewers through 
it, and put the spit between the skewers and the bones. 

A Fawn,— (No. 65.) 

Like a sucking-pig, should be dressed almost as soon as 
killed. When very young, it is trussed, stuffed, and spitted 
the same way as a hare : but they are better eating when of 
the size of a house lamb, and are then roasted in quarters ; 
the hind-quarter is most esteemed. 

They must be put down to a very quick fire, and either 
basted all the time they are roasting, or be covered with 
sheets of fat bacon ; when done, baste it with butter, and 
dredge it with a little salt and flour, till you make a nice froth 
on it. 

N.B. We advise our friends to half roast a fawn as soon 
as they receive it, and then make a hash of it like No. 528. 

Send up venison sauce with it. See the preceding receipt, 
or No. 344, &c. 

A Kid.— {No. 65*.) 

A young sucking-kid is very good eating ; to have it in 
prime condition, the dam should be kept up, and well fed, &;c. 
Roast it like a fawn or hare. 

Hare.— {No. 66.) 

^^ Inter quadrupedes gloria prima lepus.'^ — Martial. 

The first points of consideration are, how old is the hare ? 
and how long has it been killed I Wlien young, it is easy 
of digestion, and very nourishing ; when old, the contrary in 
every respect. 

To ascertain the age, examine the first joint of the forefoot; 
you will find a small knob, if it is a leveret, which disappears 
as it grows older ; then examine the ears, if they tear easily, 
it will eat tender; if they are tough, so will be the hare, 
which we advise you to make into soup (No. 241), or stew or 
jug it (No. 523). 

When newly killed, the body is stiff; as it grows stale, it 
becomes limp. 

As soon as you receive a hare, take out the liver, parboil 



ROASTING. 141 

it, and keep it for the stuffing; some are very fond of it. Do 
not use it if it be not quite fresh and good. Some mince it, 
and send it up as a garnish in little hillocks round the dish. 
Wipe the hare quite dry, rub the inside with pepper, and hang 
it up in a dry, cool place. 

Paunch and skin* your hare, wash it, and lay it in a large 
pan of cold water four or five hours, changing the water two 
or three times ; lay it in a clean cloth, and dry it well, then 
truss it. 

To make the stuffing, see No. 379. Do not make it too 
thin ; it should be of cohesive consistence : if it is not suf- 
ficiently stiff, it is good for nothing. Put this into the belly, 
and sew it up tight. 

Cut the neck-skin to let the blood out, or it will never 
appear to be done enough ; spit it, and baste it with drip- 
pings,! (or the juices of the back will be dried up before the 
upper joints of the legs are half done,) till you think it is 
nearly done, which a middling-sized hare will be in about an 
hour and a quarter. When it is almost roasted enough, put 
a little bit of butter into your basting-ladle, and baste it with 
this, and flour it, and froth it nicely. 

Serve it with good gravy (No. 329, or No. 347), and currant- 
jelly. For another stuffing, see receipt No. 379. Some cooks 
cut off the head and divide it, and lay one half on each side 
the hare. 

Cold roast hare will make excellent soup (No. 241), 
chopped to pieces, and stewed in three quarts of water for a 
couple of hours ; the stuffing will be a very agreeable substi- 
tute for sweet herbs and seasoning. See receipt for hare 
soup (No. 241), hashed hare (No. 529), and mock hare, next 
receipt. 

Mock Hare.— {No. 66.*) 

Cut out the fillet {i. e. the inside lean) of a sirloin of beef, 
leaving the fat to roast with the joint. Prepare some nice 
stuffing, as directed for a hare in No. 66, or 379 ; put this on 
the beef, and roll it up with tape, put a skewer through it, 
and tie that on a spit. 

* This, in culinary technicals, is called casing it, upon the same principle that 
"eating, drinking, and sleeping," are termed no n- naturals. 

I Mrs. Charlotte Mason, in her " Complete System of Cookery,^' page 283, says, 
she has " tried all the different things recommended to baste a hare with, and never 
found any thing so good as small beer ;" others order milk; drippings we believe la 
better than any thing. To roast a hare nicely, so as to preserve the meat on the 
back, &c. juicy and nutritive, requires as much attention as a sucking-pig. 

Instead of washing, a " grand CuUinier''^ says, it is much better to wipe a hara 
with a thin, dry cloth, aa so much washing, or indeed washing at all, takes away 
the flavour. 



142 ROASTING. 

Obs. If the beef is of prime quality, has been kept till tho- 
roughly tender, and you serve with it the accompaniments 
that usually attend roast hare (Nos. 329, 344, &c.), or stew it, 
and serve it with a rich thickened sauce garnished with force- 
meat balls (No. 379), the most fastidious palate will have no 
reason to regret that the game season is over. 

To make this into hare soup, see No. 241. 

Rabbit.— {No: 67.) 

If your fire is clear and sharp, thirty minutes will roast a 
young, and forty a full-grown rabbit. 

When you lay it down, baste it with butter, and dredge it 
lightly and carefully with flour, that you may have it frothy, 
and of a fine light brown. While the rabbit is roasting, boil 
its liver"-* with some parsley ; when tender, chop them toge- 
ther, and put half the mixture into some melted butter, 
reserving the other half for garnish, divided into little hillocks. 
Cut off the head, and lay half on each side of the dish. 

Obs. A fine, well-grown (but young) warren rabbit, kept 
some time after it has been killed, and roasted with a stuffing 
in its belly, eats very like a hare, to the nature of which it 
approaches. It is nice, nourishing food when young, but hard 
and unwholesome when old. For sauces, Nos. 287, 298, 
and 329. 

Pheasant.— (No. 68.) 

Requires a smart fire, but not a fierce one. Thirty minutes 
will roast a young bird, and forty or fifty a full-grown phea- 
sant. Pick and draw it, cut a slit in the back of the neck, 
and take out the craw, but don't cut the head off; wipe the 
inside of the bird with a clean cloth, twist the legs close to 
the body, leave the feet on, but cut the toes off; don't turn 
the head under the wing, but truss it like a fowl, it is much 
easier to carve; baste it, butter and froth it, and prepare 
sauce for it (Nos. 321 and 329). See the instructions in 
receipts to roast fowls and turkeys, Nos. 57 and 58. 

Obs. We believe the rarity of this bird is its best recom- 
mendation ; and the character given it by an ingenious French 
author is just as good as it deserves. "Its flesh is naturally 
tough, and owes all its tenderness and succulence to the long 
iime it is kept before it is cooked ;" until it is " bien mortifiie,^^ 
it is uneatable.f Therefore, instead of " sus per col,'''' suspend 

* Liver sauce, Nos. 287 and 288. 

T ii Thpy are only fit to he eaten when the blood runs from the bill, which is com- 
monly about 6 or 7 days after they have been killed, otherwise it will have no more 
savour than a common fowl." — Ude's Cookery, Bvo. Idl9, page 216. 



ROASTING. 143 

it by one of the long' tail-feathers, and the pheasant's falling 
from it is the criterion of its ripeness and readiness for the 
spit. 

Our president of the committee of taste (who is inde- 
fatig-able in his endeavours to improve the health, as well as 
promote the enjoyment, of his fellow-students in the school 
of good living, and to whom the epicure, the economist, and 
the valetudinarian are equally indebted for his careful re- 
vision of this work, and especially for introducing that salu- 
tary maxim into the kitchen, that " the salubrious is ever a 
superior consideration to the savoury," and indeed, the 
rational epicure only relishes the latter when entirely subor- 
dinate to the former), has suggested to us, that the detach- 
ment of the feather cannot take place until the body of the 
bird has advanced more than one degree beyond the state of 
wholesome haut-goui, and become " trop morii/i^e ;" and that 
to enjoy this game in perfection, you must have a brace of 
birds killed the same day; these are to be put in suspense 
as above directed, and when one of them drops^ the hour is 
come that the spit should be introduced to his companion : — . 

" Ultra citraque nequit conststere rectum.*^ 

Mock Pheasant.— {No. 69.) 

If you have only one pheasant, and wish for a companion 
for it, get a fine young fowl, of as near as may be the same 
size as the bird to be matched, and make game of it by truss- 
ing it like a pheasant, and dressing it according to the above 
directions. Few persons will discover the pheasant from the 
fowl, especially if the latter has been kept four or five days. 

The peculiar flavour of the pheasant (like that of other 
game) is principally acquired by long keeping. 

Guinea and Pea Fozvls, — (No. 69*.) 
A.re dressed in the same way as pheasants. ' j 

Partridges,— {No. 70.) 

Are cleaned and trussed in the same manner as a pheasant 
(but the ridiculous custom of tucking the legs into each 

" Gastronomers, who have any sort of aversion to a peculiar taste in game, properly 
kept, had better abstain from this bird, since it is worse than a common fowl, if not 
waited for till it acquires ihefumet it ought to have. Whole republics of iiiaggota 
have often been found rioting under the wings of pheasants ; but being radically 
dispersed, and the birds properly washed with vinegar, every thing went right, and 
every guest, unconscious of the culinary ablutions, enjoyed the excellent flavour of 
the Fhasian birds." — Tabella Cibaria, p. 55. 



144 EOASTING. 

Other makes them "v ery troublesome to carve) ; the breast is 
so plump, it will require almost as much roasting ; send up 
with them rich sauce (No. 321*), or bread sauce (No. 321), 
and g-ood gravy (No. 329). 

\* If you wish to preserve them longer than you think 
they will keep g-ood undressed, half roast them, they will 
then keep two or three days longer ; or make a pie of them. 

Black Cock (No. 71), Moor Game (No. 72), and Grouse^ 

(No. 73.) 

Are all to be dressed like partridges ; the black cock will 
take as much as a pheasant, and moor game and grouse as 
the partridge. Send up with them currant-jelly and fried 
bread-crumbs (No. 320). 

Wild Ducks.— {No. 74.) 

For roasting a wild duck, you must have a clear, brisk fire, 
and a hot spit ; it must be browned upon the outside, without 
being sodden within. To have it well frothed and full of 
gravy is the nicety. Prepare the fire by stirring and raking 
it just before the bird is laid down, and fifteen or twenty 
minutes will do it in the fashionable way ; but if you like it 
a little more done, allow it a few minutes longer ; if it is too 
much, it will lose its flavour. 

For the sauce, see No. 338 and No. 62. 

Widgeons and Teal, — (No. 75.) 

Are dressed exactly as the wild duck ; only that less time 
is requisite for a widgeon, and still less for a teal. 

Woodcock.— {No. 76.) 

Woodcocks should not be drawn, as the trail is by the 
lovers of " haut goitf considered a " bonne bouche ;" truss 
their legs close to the body, and run an iron skewer through 
each thigh, close to the body, and tie them on a small bird 
spit ; put them to roast at a clear fire ; cut as many slices 
of bread as you have birds, toast or fry them a delicate 
brown, and lay them m the dripping-pan under the birds 
to catch the trail;* baste them with butter, and froth 

* " This bird has so insinuated itself into the favour of refined gourmands, that 
they pay it the same honours as the grand Lama, making a ragofit of its excrements, 
and devouring them with ecstasy." — Vide Almanack des Gourmands, vol. i. p. 56. 

That exercise produces strength and firmness of fibre is excellently well exempli- 
fied in the woodcock and the partridge. The former flies most — the latter walks ; 



ROASTING. 145 

them with flour ; lay the toast on a hot dish, and the birds 
on the toast; pour some good beef gravy into the dish, 
and send some up in a boat, see Obs. to No. 329 : twenty 
or thirty minutes will roast them. Garnish with slices 
of lemon. 

06s. — Some epicures like this bird very much under-done, 
and direct that a woodcock should be just introduced to 
the cook, for her to show it the fire, and then send it up 
to table. 

Snipes, — (No. 77.) 

Differ little from woodcocks, unless in size ; they are to 
be dressed in the same way, but require about five minutes 
less time to roast them. 

For sauce, see No. 338. 

Pigeons. — (No. 78.) 

When the pigeons are ready for roasting, if you are 
desired to stuff them, chop some green parsley very fine, the 
liver, and a bit of butter together, with a little pepper and 
salt, or with the stuffing ordered for a fillet of veal (No. 374 
or No. 375), and fill the belly of each bird with it. They 
will be done enough in about twenty or thirty minute;5 ; send 
up parsley and butter (No. 261,) in the dish under them, and 
some in a boat, and garnish with crisp parsley (No. 318), or 
fried bread crumbs (No. 320), or bread sauce (No. 321), or 
gravy (No. 329). 

06s. — When pigeons are fresh they have their full relish ; 
but it goes entirely off with a very little keeping ; nor is it 
in any way so well preserved as by roasting them : when they 
are put into a pie they are generally baked to rags, and taste 
more of pepper and salt than of any thing else. 

A little melted butter may be put into the dish with them, 
and the gravy that runs from them will mix with it into fine 
sauce. Pigeons are in the greatest perfection from mid- 
summer to Michaelmas ; there is then the most plentiful and 
best food for them; and their finest growth is just whon they 
are full feathered. When they are in the pen-feathers, they 
are flabby ; when they are full grown, and have flown some 
' time, they are tough. Game and poultry are best when they 

the wing of the woodcock is always very tough, — of the partridge very tender; 
hence the old doggerel distich, — 

" If the partridge had but the woodcock'' s thigh, 
He 'd be the best bird that e'er doth fly." 
The breast of all birds is the most juicy and nutritious part. 

N 



146 FRYING. 

have just done growing, i. e. as soon as nature has per^cted 
her work. i 

This was the secret of Solomon, the famous pigeon-feeder 
of Turnham Green, who is celebrated by the poet Gay, 
when he says, 

•' That Turnham Green, which dainty pigeons fed, 
But feeds no more, for Solomon is dead." 

Larks and other small Birds. — (No. 80.) 

These delicate little birds are in high season in November.' 
When they are picked, gutted, and cleaned, truss them; 
brush them with the yelk of an egg, and then roll them in 
bread-crumbs : spit them on a lark-spit, and tie that on to a 
larger spit ; ten or fifteen minutes at a quick fire will do them 
enough ; baste them with fresh butter while they are roasting, 
and sprinkle them with bread-crumbs till they are well 
covered with them. 

For the sauce, fry some grated bread in clarified butter, 
see No. 259, and set it to drain before the fire, that it may 
harden : serve the crumbs imder the larks when you dish 
them, and garnish them with slices of lemon. 

Wheatears,—{No. 81.) 
Are dressed in the same way as larks. 

Lobster.— {No. 82.) 

See receipt for boiling (No. 176). 

We give no receipt for roasting lobster, tongue, &c. being 
of opinion with Dr. King, who says, 

" By roasting that which our forefathers boiled, 
And boiling what they roasted, much is spoiled." 



FRYING. 

To clarify Drippings. — (No. 83.) 

Put your dripping into a clean sauce-pan over a stove or 
slow fire ; when it is just going to boil, skim it well, let it 
boil, and then let it stand till it is a little cooled ; then pour it 
through a sieve into a pan. 



FRYING. 147 

Obs. — Well-cleansed drippings,* and the fat skimmingsf 
of the broth-pot, when fresh and sweet, will baste every 
thing- as well as butter, except game and poultry, and should 
supply the place of butter for common fries, &c. ; for which 
they are equal to lard, especially if you repeat the clarifying 
twice over. 

N.B. If you keep it in a cool place, you may preserve it a 
fortnight in summer, and longer in winter. When you have 
done frying, let the dripping stand a few minutes to settle, 
and then pour it through a sieve into a clean basin or stone 
pan, and it will do a second and a third time as well as it 
did the first ; only the fat you have fried fish in must not be 
used for any other purpose. 

To clarify Suet to fry with. — (No. 84.) 

Cut beef or mutton suet into thin slices, pick out all the 
veins and skins, &c., put it into a thick and well-tinned 
sauce-pan, and set it over a very slow stove, or in an oven, 
till it is melted ; you must not hurry it ; if not done very 
slowly it will acquire a burnt taste, which you cannot get 
rid of; then strain it through a hair-sieve into a clean brown 

* Mrs. Melroe, in her Economical Cookery, page 7, tells us, she has ascertained 
from actual experiments, that " the drippings of roast meat, combined with wheat 
flour, oatmeal, barley, pease, or potato- starch, will make delicious soup, agreeable 
and savoury to the palate, and nutritive and serviceable to the stomach ; and that 
Tvhile a joint is roasting, good soup may be made from the drippings of the fat, 
which is the essence ef meat, as seeds are of vegetables, and impregnates soup with 
the identical taste of meat." 

" Writers on cookery give strict directions to carefully s&m off the fat, and in the 
next sentence order butter (a much more expensive article) to be added : instead of 
this, when any fat appears at the top of your soup or stew, do not skim it off, but 
unite it with the broth by means of the vegetable mucilages, flour, oatmeal, ground 
barley, or potato-starch ; when susjiended the soup is equally agreeable to the palate 
nutritive to the stomach," &c. 

" Cooks bestow a great deal of pains to make gravies ; they stew and boil lean 
meat for hours, and, after all, their cookery tastes more of pepper and salt than any 
thing else. If they would add the bulk of achesnut of solid fat to a common-sized 
eauce-boatful of gravy, it will give it more sapidity than twenty hours' stewing lean 
meat would, unless a larger quantity was used than is warranted by the rules of 
frufraUty." See Nos. 205 and 229. 

" Tiie experi.nents of IJr. Stark on the nourishing powers of different substances, 
go very far to prove that three ounces of the fat of boiled beef are equal to a pound 
of the lean. hr. Pages, the traveller, confirms this opinion : ' Being obliged,' says 
he, 'during the journey from North to South America by land, to live solely on 
animal food, I experienced the truth of what is observed by hunters, who live solely 
on animal food, viz. that besides their receiving little nourishment from the leaner 
parts of it, it soon becomes offensive to the taste ; wliereas the fat is both more nutri- 
tive, and continues to be agreeable to the palate. To many stomachs fat is unplea- 
sant and indiiiestible, especially when converted into oil by heat; this may be easily 
prevented, by the simple process of combining the fat coujpletely with water, by the 
intervention of vegetable mucilage, as in melting butter, by means of tinur, the 
butter and water are united into a homogeneous fluid.' " — From Practical Economy, 
by a Physician. Callow, 1801. 

t See note at the foot of No. 201. 



148 FRYING. 

pan : when quite cold, tie a paper over it, and keep it for 
use. Hog's lard is prepared in the same way. 

Obs. — The waste occasioned by the present absurd fashion 
of over-feeding cattle till the fat is nearly equal to the lean, 
may, by good management, be in some measure prevented, 
by cutting off the superfluous part, and preparing it as above, 
or by making it into puddings ; see Nos. 551 and 554, or 
soup, No. 229. 

Steaks.— {No. 85.) 

Cut the steaks rather thinner than for broiling. Put some 
butter, or No. 83, into an iron frying-pan, and when it is 
hot, lay in the steaks, and keep turning them till they are 
done enough. For sauce, see No. 356, and for the accom- 
paniments, No. 94. 

Obs. Unless the fire be prepared on purpose, we like this 
way of cooking them ; the gravy is preserved, and the meat 
is more equally dressed, and more evenly browned ; which 
makes it more relishing, and invites the eye to encourage 
the appetite. 

Beef-steaks and Onions. — (No. 86. See also No. 501.) 

Fry the steaks according to the directions given in the 
preceding receipt ; and have ready for them some onions 
prepared as directed in No. 299. 

For stewed rump-steaks, see Nos. 500 and 501. 

Sausages, — (No. 87.) 

Are best when quite fresh made. Put a bit of butter, or 
dripping (No. 83), into a clean frying-pan; as soon as it is 
melted (before it gets hot) put in the sausages, and shake 
the pan for a minute, and keep turning them (be careful not 
to break or prick them in so doing) ; fry them over a very 
slow fire till they are nicely browned on all sides ; when they 
are done, lay them on a hair-sieve, placed before the fire for 
a couple of minutes to drain the fat from them. The secret 
of frying sausages is, to let them get hot very gradually ; 
they then will not burst, if they are not stale. 

The common practice to prevent their bursting, is to prick 
them with a fork ; but this lets the gravy out. 

You may froth them by rubbing them with cold fresh but- 
ter, and lightly dredge them with flour, and put them in a 
cheese-toaster or Dutch oven for a minute. 

Some over-economical cooks insist that no butter or lard. 



FRYING. 1 49 

&c. is required, their own fat being sufficient to fry them : 
we have tried it ; the sausages were partially scorched, and 
had that piebald appearance that all fried things have when 
sufficient fat is not allowed. 

Obs. Poached eggs (No. 548), pease-pudding (No. 555), 
and mashed potatoes (No. 106) are agreeable accompani- 
ments to sausages; and sausages are as welcome with 
boiled or roasted poultiy or veal, or boiled tripe (No. 18) ; so 
are ready-dressed German sausages (see Mem. to No. 13) ; 
and a convenient, easily digestible, and invigorating food for 
the aged, and those whose teeth are defective ; as is also 
No. 503. For sauce No. 356 ; to make mustard, Nos. 369 
and 370. 

N.B. Sausages, when finely chopped, are a delicate "bonne 
houchef and require very little assistance from the teeth to 
render them quite ready for the stomach. 

Sweetbreads full-dressed. — (No. 88.) 

Parboil them, and let them get cold ; then cut them in 
pieces, about three-quarters of an inch thick ; dip them in 
the yelk of an egg, then in fine bread-crumbs (some add 
spice, lemon-peel, and sweet herbs) ; put some clean drip- 
ping (No. 83) into a frying-pan: when it boils, put in the 
sweetbreads, and fry them a fine brown. For garnish, crisp 
parsley; and for sauce, mushroom catchup and melted but- 
ter, or anchovy sauce, or Nos. 356, 343, or 343*, or bacon or 
ham, as Nos. 526 and 527. 

Sweetbreads plain. — (No. 89.) 

Parboil and slice them as before, dry them on a clean cloth, 
flour them, and fry them a delicate brown ; take care to drain 
the fat well from them, and garnish them with slices of 
lemon, and sprigs of chervil or parsley, or crisp parsley 
(No. 318). For sauce. No. 356, or No. 307, and slices of 
ham or bacon, as No. 526, or No. 527, or forcemeat balls 
made as Nos. 375 and 378. 

*^* Take care to have a fresh sweetbread ; it spoils sooner 
than almost anything, therefore should be parboiled as soon 
as it comes in. This is called blanching, or setting it ; mut- 
ton kidneys (No. 95) are sometimes broiled and sent up with 
sweetbreads. 

Veal Cutlets.— [No. 90 and No. 521.) 

Let your cutlets be about half an inch thick ; trim them, 

N3 



] 60 FRYING. 

and flatten them with a cleaver ; you may fry them in fresh' 
butter, or good drippings (No. 83) ; when brown on one side, 
turn them and do the other ; if the fire is very fierce, they 
must change sides oftener. The time they will take depends 
on the thickness of the cutlet and the heat of the fire ; half 
an inch thick will take about fifteen minutes. Make some 
gravy, by putting the trimmings into a stew-pan with a little 
soft water, an onion, a roll of lemon-peel, a blade of mace, 
a sprig of thyme and parsley, and a bay leaf ; stew over a 
slow fire an hour, then strain it ; put an ounce of butter into 
a stew-pan ; as soon as it is melted, mix with it as much 
flour as will dry it up, stir it over the fire for a few minutes, 
then add the gravy by degrees till it is all mixed, boil it for 
five minutes, and strain it through a tamis sieve, and put it to 
the cutlets ; you may add some browning (No. 322), mush- 
room (No. 439), or walnut catchup, or lemon pickle, &c. : 
see also sauces, Nos. 343 and 348. Or, 

Cut the veal into pieces about as big as a crown-piece, 
beat them with a cleaver, dip them in eggs beat up with a 
little salt, and then in fine bread-crumbs ; fry them a light 
brown in boiling lard ; serve under them some good gravy 
or mushroom sauce (No. 307), which may be made in five 
minutes. Garnish with slices of ham or rashers of bacoa 
(Nos. 526 and 527), or pork sausages (No. 87). 

Obs. Veal forcemeat or stuffing (Nos. 374, 375, and 378), 
pork sausages (No. 87), rashers of bacon (Nos. 526 and 
527), are very relishing accompaniments, fried and sent up 
in the form of balls or cakes, and laid round as a garnish. 



Lamb, or Mutton Chops, — (No. 92.^ 

Are dressed in the same way, and garnished with crisp 
parsley (No. 318) and slices of lemon. 

If they are bread-crumbed and covered with buttered 
writing-paper, and then broiled, they are called " maintenon 
cutlets." 

Pork Chops,— {No. 93.) 

Cut the chops about half an inch thick ; trim them neatly 
(few cooks have any idea how much credit they get by this) ; 
put a frying-pan on the fire, with a bit of butter ; as soon as 
it is hot, put in your chops, turning them often till brown all 
over, they will be done enough in about fifteen minutes; 



BROILING. 151 

take one upon a plate and try it ; if done, season it with 
a little finely-minced onion, powdered sag-e, and pepper and 
salt. For ^avy and sauce, see Nos. 300, 304, 341, and 356. 

Obs. A little powdered sag-e, &c. strewed over them, will 
give them a nice relish, or the savoury powder in No. 51, or 
forcemeat sausag-es like No. 378. 

Do not have them cut too thick, about three chops to an 
inch and a quarter ; trim them neatly, beat them flat, have 
ready some sweet herbs, or sage and onion chopped fine, put 
them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter about as big as a 
walnut, let them have one fry, beat two eggs on a plate with 
a little salt, add to them the herbs, mix it all well together, 
dip the chops in one at a time all over, and then with bread- 
crumbs fry them in hot lard or drippings till they are a light 
brown. 

Obs. Veal, lamb, or mutton chops, are very good dressed 
in like manner. 

To fry fish, see No. 145. 

N.B. To fry eggs and omelets, and other things, see No. 
545, and the Index. 



BROILING. 



[Chops or Steaks.*— {No. 94.) 

To stew them, see No. 500, ditto with onions. No. 501. 

Those who are nice about steaks, never attempt to have 
them, except in weather which permits the meat to be hung 
till it is tender, and give the butcher some days' notice of 
their wish for them. i 

If, friendly reader, you wish to entertain your mouth with: 
a superlative beef-steak, you must have the inside of the 
sirloin cut into steaks. The next best steaks are those cut 

* The season for these is from the 29th of September to the 25th of March ; to 
ensure their being tender when out of season, stew them as in receipt No. 500. 

TO WARM UP COLD RUMP-STEAKS. 

Lay them in a stew-pan, with one large onion cut in quarters, six berries of all- 
spice, the same of black pepper, cover the steaks with boiling water, let them stew 
gently one hour, thicken the liquor with flour and butter rubbed together on a plate; 
if a pint of gravy, about one ounce of flour, and the like weight of butter, will do ; 
put it into the stew-pan, shake it well over the fire for five minutes, and it is ready ; 
lay the steaks and onions on a dish and pour the gravy through a sieve over them. 



152 BROILING. 

from the middle of a rump, that has been killed at least four 
days in moderate weather, and much longer in cold weather, 
when they can be cut about six inches long-, four inches 
wide, and half an inch thick : do not beat them, which vulgar 
trick breaks the cells in which the gravy of the meat is 
contained, and it becomes dry and tasteless. 

N.B. If your butcher sends steaks which are not tender, 
we do not insist that you should object to let him be beaten. 

Desire the butcher to cut them of even thickness ; if he 
does not, divide the thicker from the thinner pieces, and give 
them time accordingly. 

Take care to have a very clear, brisk fire ; throw a little salt 
on it ; make the gridiron hot, and set it slanting, to prevent 
the fat from dropping into the fire, and making a smoke. It 
requires more practice and care than is generally supposed 
to do steaks to a nicety ; and for want of these little atten- 
tions, this veiy common dish, which every body is supposed 
capable of dressing, seldom comes to table in perfection. 

Ask those you cook for, if they like it under, or thoroughly 
done ; and what accompaniments they like best ; it is usual 
to put a table-spoonful of catchup (No. 439), or a little 
minced eschalot, or No. 402, into a dish before the fire; 
while you are broiling, turn the steak, &c. with a pair of 
steak-tongs, it will be done in about ten or fifteen minutes ; 
rub a bit of butter over it, and send it up garnished Avith 
pickles and finely-scraped horse-radish. Nos. 135, 278, 299, 
255, 402, 423, 439, and 356, are the sauces usually composed 
for chops and steaks. 

N.B. Macbeth's receipt for beef-steaks is the best — 

" when 'i is done, 'f were well 

If 't were done quickly." 

Obs. " Le veritable bifteck, comme il se fait en Angleterre^ 
as Mons. Beauvilliers calls (in his VArt du Cuisinier, tom. i. 
8vo. Paris, 1814, p. 122) what he says we call ^^ romesteck,^* 
is as highly esteemed by our French neighbours, as their 
" ragouts'^ are by our countrymen, who 



-" post to Paris go, 



Merely to taste their soups, and mushrooms know." 

King's Art of Cookery, p. 79. 

These lines were written before the establishment of Al- 
bion house, Aldersgate Street, where every luxury that nature 
and art produce is served of the primest quality, and in the 
r-ost scientific manner, in a style of princely magnificence 
and perfect comfort ; the wines, liqueurs, &c. are superlative. 



BROILING. 153 

and every department of the business of the banquet is con- 
ducted in the most liberal maimer. i 

The French author whom we have before so often quoted, 
assures les amateurs de bonne chere on the other side of the 
water, it is well worth their while to cross the chamiel to 
taste this favourite English dish, which, when " moriiji^e a 
son poinV and well dressed, he says, is superior to most of 
the subtle double relishes of the Parisian kitchen. Alma" 
nach des Gourmands, vol. i. p. 27. 

Beef is justly accounted the most nutritious animal food, 
and is entitled to the same rank among solid, that brandy is 
among- liquid stimuli. 

The celebrated Trainer, Sir Thomas Parkyns, of Bunny 
Park, Bart., in his book on Wrestling, 4to. 3d edit. 1727, p. 
10, &c., greatly prefers beef-eaters to sheep-biters, as he 
called those who ate mutton. 

When Humphries the pugilist was trained by Ripsham, 
the keeper of Ipswich jail, he was at first fed on beef, but 
got so much flesh, it w- as changed for mutton, roasted or 
broiled : when broiled, great part of the nutritive juices of 
the meat is extracted. 

The principles upon which training* is conducted, resolve 
themselves into temperance without abstemiousness, and 
exercise without fatigue. 

Kidneys. — (No. 95.) 

Cut them through the long way, score them, sprinkle a 
little pepper and salt on them, and run a wire skewer through 
them to keep them from curling on the gridiron, so that they 
may be evenly broiled. 

Broil them over a very clear fire, turning them often till 
they are done ; they will take about ten or twelve minutes, 
if the fire is brisk : or fry them in butter, and make gravy 
for them in the pan (after you have taken out the kidneys), 
by putting in a tea-spoonful of flour ; as soon as it looks 
brown, put in as much water as will make gravy ; they will 
take five minutes more to fry than to broil. For sauce, Nos. 
318, 355, and 356. 

Obs. Some cooks chop a few parsley-leaves very fine, and 
mix them with a bit of fresh butter and a little pepper and 
salt, and put a little of this mixture on each kidney. 

* See " The Art of Invioorating and Prolonging Life," by the editor of 
" The Cook's Oracle." Published by G. B. Whittaker, No. 13, Ave-Maria Lan& 



1 54 BROILING. 

A Fowl or Rabbit, 4-c.— (No. 97.) 

We can only recommend this method of dressing when 
the fire is not good enough for roasting. 

Pick and truss it the same as for boiling, cut it open down 
the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season it with 
a little pepper and salt, have a clear fire, and set the gridiron 
at a good distance over it, lay the chicken on with the inside 
towards the fire (you may egg it and strew some grated 
bread over it), and broil it till it is a fine brown : take care 
the fleshy side is not burned. Lay it on a hot dish ; pickled 
mushrooms, or mushroom sauce (No. 305), thrown over it, 
or parsley and butter (No. 261), or melted butter flavoured 
with mushroom catchup (No. 307). 

Garnish it with slices of lemon ; and the liver and giz- 
zard slit and notched, seasoned with pepper and salt, and 
broiled nicely brown, with some slices of lemon. For grill 
sauce, see No. 355. 

N.B. " It was a great mode, and taken up by the court 
party in Oliver Cromwell's time, to roast half capons, pre- 
tending they had a more exquisite taste and nutriment than 
when dressed whole." See Joan Cromwell's Kitchen, Lon- 
don, 1664, page 39. 

Pigeons,— {No. 98.) 

To be worth the trouble of picking, must be well grown, 
and well fed. 

Clean them well, and pepper and salt them ; broil them 
over a clear, slow fire ; turn them often, and put a little but- 
ter on them : when they are done, pour over them, either 
stewed (No. 305) or pickled mushrooms, or catchup and 
melted butter (No. 307, or No. 348 or 355). 

Garnish with fried bread-crumbs or sippets (No. 319) : or, 
when the pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with a 
cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the "backs or 
breasts. Season them with pepper and salt, a little bit of 
butter, and a tea-spoonful of water, and tie them close at 
both ends ; so that when they are brought to table, they bring 
their sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with 
grated bread (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if you 
please) ; then lay them on the gridiron, and turn them fre- 
quently : if your fire is not very clear, lay them on a sheet 
of paper well buttered, to keep them from getting smoked. 
They are much better broiled whole. 

The same sauce as in the preceding receipt, or No. 343 
or 348. 

Veal cutlets (No. 521 and No. 91). Pork chops (No. 93) 



VEGETABLES. 155 



VEGETABLES. 

Sixteen Ways of dressing Potatoes* — (No. 102.) 

The vegetable kingdom affords no food more wholesome, 
more easily procured, easily prepared, or less expensive, than 
the potato : yet, although this most useful vegetable is dressed 
almost every day, in almost every family, for one plate of 
potatoes that comes to table as it should, ten are spoiled. 

Be careful in your choice of potatoes : no vegetable varies 
iSO much in colour, size, shape, consistence, and flavour. i 

The reddish-coloured are better than the whit©, but the 
Yellowish-looking ones are the best. Choose those of a 
moderate size, free from blemishes, and fresh, and buy them 
in the mould. They must not be wetted till they are cleaned 
to be cooked. Protect them from the air and frost, by lay- 
ing them in heaps in a cellar, covering them with ma^s, or 
burying them in sand or in earth. The action of frost is 
most destructive : if it be considerable, the life of the vege- 
table is destroyed, and the potato speedily rots. * 

Wash them, but do not pare or cut them, unless they are 
very large. Fill a sauce-pan half full of potatoes of equal 
sizef (or make them so by dividing the larger ones), put to 
them as much cold water as will cover them about an inch : 
they are sooner boiled, and more savoury, than when drowned 
in water. Most boiled things are spoiled by having too 
little water, but potatoes are often spoiled by too much : they 
must merely be covered, and a little allowed for waste in 
boiling, so that they may be just covered at the finish. 

Set them on a moderate fire till they boil ; then take them 
off, and put them by the side of the fire to simmer slowly till 
they are soft enough to admit a fork (place no dependence 
on the usual test of their skins' cracking, which, if they are 
boiled fast, will happen to some potatoes when they are not 
half done, and the insides quite hard). Then pour the water 

* " Next to bread, there is no vegetable article, the preparation of which, as food, 
deserves to be more attended to, than the potato." — Sir John Sinclair's Code of 
Health, vol. i. p. 354. 

"By the analysis of potato, it appears that 16 ounces contained 11 J ounces of 
water, and the 4i ounces of solid parts remaining, afforded scarce a drachm ol 
earth."— Parmkntikr's Ohs. on J^Tutritive Vegetables, 8vo. 1783, p. 112. 

t Or the small ones will be done to pieces before the large ones are boiled 
enough. 



156 VEGETABLES. 

off (if you let the potatoes remain in the water a moment 
after they are done enough, they will become waxy and wa- 
tery), uncover the sauce-pan, and set it at such a distance 
from the fire as will secure it from burning; their super- 
fluous moisture will evaporate, and the potatoes will be per- 
fectly dry and mealy. 

You may afterward place a napkin, folded up to the size 
of the sauce-pan's diarneter, over the potatoes, to keep them 
hot and mealy till wanted. 

Obs. — This method of managing potatoes is in every re- 
spect equal to steaming them ; and they are dressed in half 
the time. 

There is such an infinite variety of sorts and sizes of pota- 
toes, that it is impossible to say how long they will take 
doing : the best way is to try them with a fork. Moderate- 
sized potatoes will generally be done enough in fifteen or 
twenty minutes. See Obs. to No. 106. 

Cold Potatoes fried,— {No. 102*.) 

Put a bit of clean dripping into a frying-pan: when it is 
melted, slice in your potatoes with a little pepper and salt ; 
put them on the fire ; keep stirring them : when they are quite 
hot, they are ready. 

Obs. — This is a very good way of re-dressing potatoes, or 
see No. 106. 

Potatoes boiled and broiled. — (No. 103.) 

Dress your potatoes as before directed, and put them on 
a gridiron over a very clear and brisk fire : turn them till they 
are brown all over, and send them up dry, with melted butter 
in a cup. 

Potatoes fried in Slices or Shavings. — (No. 104.) 

Peel large potatoes ; slice them about a quarter of an inch 
thick, or cut them in shavings round and round, as you would 
peel a lemon ; dry them well in a clean cloth, and fry them 
in lard or dripping. Take care that your fat and frying-pan 
are quite clean ; put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon 
as the lard boils, and is still, put in the slices of potato, and 
keep moving them till they are crisp. Take them up, and 
lay them to drain on a sieve : send them up with a very little 
salt sprinkled over them. 



VEGETABLES. 1^ 

Potatoes fried whole. — (No. 105.) 

When nearly boiled enoug-h, as directed in No. 102, put 
them into a stew-pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean 
beef-drippings ; shake them about often (for fear of burning 
them), tiU they are brown and crisp ; drain them from the fat. 

Obs. — It will be an elegant improvement to the last three 
receipts, previous to frying or broiling the potatoes, to flour 
them and dip them in the yelk of an egg, and then roll them 
in fine-sifted bread-crumbs ; they will then deserve to be 
called POTATOES full dressed. 

Potatoes mashed. — (No. 106. See also No. 112.) 

When your potatoes are thoroughly boiled, drain them 
quite dry, pick out every speck, &c., and while hot, rub them 
through a colander into a clean stew-pan. To a pound of 
potatoes put about half an ouiice of butter, and a table-spoon- 
ful of milk : do not make them too moist ; mix them well 
together. 

Obs. — After Lady-day, when the potatoes are getting old 
and specky, and in frosty weather, this iz ihe best way of 
dressing them. You may put them into shapes or small 
tea-cups ; egg them with yelk of egg, and brown them very 
slightly before a slow fire. See No. 108. 

Potatoes mashed with Onions. — (No. 107.) 

Prepare some boiled onions by putting them through a 
sieve, and mix them with potatoes. In proportioning the 
onions to the potatoes, you will be guided by your wish to 
have more or less of their flavour. 

Obs. — See note under No. 555. 

Potatoes escalqped. — (No. 108.) 

Mash potatoes as directed in No. 106 ; then butter some 
nice clean scollop-shells, patty-pans, or tea-cups or saucers ; 
put in your potatoes ; make them smooth at the top ; cross 
a knife over them ; strew a few fine bread-crumbs on them ; 
sprinkle them with a paste-brush with a few drops of melted 
butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven ; when they are 
browned on the top, take them carefully out of the shells 
and brown the other side. 

Colcannon.—CNo. 108*.) 

Boil potatoes and greens, or spinage, separately ; mash the 

O 



158 VEGETABLES. 

potatoes; squeeze the greens dry; chop them quite fine» 
and mix them with the potatoes, with a little butter, pepper- 
and salt ; put it into a mould, buttering it well first ; let it 
stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. 

Potatoes roasted. — (No. 109.) 

Wash and dry your potatoes (all of a size), and put them 
in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese-toaster : take care not to put 
them too near the fire, or they will get burned on the outside 
before they are warmed through. 

Large potatoes will require two hours to roast them. 

N.B. To save time and trouble, some cooks half boil 
them first. 

This is one of the best opportunities the baker has to 
rival the cook. 

Potatoes roasted under Meat. — (No. 110.) 

Half boil large potatoes, drain the water from them, 
and put them into an earthen dish, or small tin pan, under 
meat that is roasting, and baste them with some of the 
dripping : when they are browned on one side, turn them 
and brown the other; send them up round the meat, or 
in a small dish. 

Potato Balls.— (No. 111.) 

Mix mashed potatoes with the yelk of an egg; roll 
them into balls ; flour them, or egg and bread-crumb them ; 
and fiy them in clean drippings, or brown them in a 
Dutch oven. 

Potato Balls Ragout,— {No. 112.) 

Are made by adding to a pound of potatoes a quarter of a 
pound of grated ham, or some sweet herbs, or chopped 
parsley, an onion or eschalot, salt, pepper, and a little grated 
nutmeg, or other spice, with the yelk of a couple of eggs : 
they are then to be dressed as No. 111. 

Obs. — An agreeable vegetable relish, and a good sup- 
per-dish. 

Potato Snow.— (No. 114.) 

The potatoes must be free from spots, and the whitest 
you can pick out ; put them on in cold water ; when they 
begin to crack strain the water from them, and put thero 



VEGETABLES. 159 

Into a clean stew-pan by the side of the fire till they are 
quite dry, and fall to pieces ; rub them through a wire sieve 
on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb 
them afterward. 

Potato Pie.— (^No. 115.) 

Peel and slice your potatoes very thin into a pie-dish; 
between each layer of potatoes put a little chopped onion 
(three-quarters of an ounce of onion is sufficient for a pound 
of potatoes) ; between each layer sprinkle a little pepper 
and salt ; put in a little water, and cut about two omices of 
fresh butter into little bits, and lay them on the top : cover 
it close with puff paste. It will take about an hour and a 
half to bake it. 

N.B. The yelks of four eggs (boiled hard) maybe added ; 
and Avhen baked, a table-spoonful of good mushroom catchup 
poured in through a funnel. 

Obs. — Cauliflowers divided into mouthfuls, and button 
onions, seasoned with curry powder, &c. make a favourite 
vegetable pie. 

Mw Potatoes.— {No. 116.) 

The best way to clean new potatoes is to rub them with a 
coarse cloth or flannel, a or scrubbing-brush, and proceed as 
in No. 102. 

N.B. Newpotatoes are poor, watery, and insipid, till they 
are full two inches in diameter : they are not worth the 
trouble of boiling before midsummer day. 

Obs. — Some cooks prepare sauces to pour over potatoes, 
made with butter, salt, and pepper, or gravy, or melted butter 
and catchup ; or stew the potatoes in ale, or water seasoned 
with pepper and salt ; or bake them with herrings or sprats, 
mixed with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, 
sweet herbs, vinegar, and water; or cut mutton or beef 
into slices, and lay them in a stew-pan, and on them pota- 
toes and spices, then another layer of the meat alternately, 
pouring in a little water, covering it up very close, and 
stewing slowly. 

Potato mucilage (a good substitute for arrow-root), 
No. 448.* 

* Sweet potatoes, otherwise called Carolina potatoes, are the roots of the Convol- 
vulus batatas, a plant peculiar to and principally cultivated in America. It delights 
in a warm climate, but is raised in Connecticut, New- York, and all the states of the 
Union south of New- York. It is an excellent vegetable for the dinner-table, and 13 
brought on boiled. It has an advantage over common potatoes, as it may be eatea 



160 VEGETABLES. 

Jerusalem Artichokes^ — (No. 117.) 

Are boiled and dressed in the various ways we have just 
before directed for potatoes. 

N.B. They should be covered with thick melted butter, or 
a nice white or brown sauce. 

Cabbage.— (No. 118.) 

Pick cabbages very clean, and wash them thoroughly; 
then look them over carefully again ; quarter them if they 
are very large. Put them into a sauce-pan with plenty of 
boiling water; if any scum rises, take it off; put a large 
spoonful of salt into the sauce-pan, and boil them till the 
stalks feel tender. A young cabbage will take about twenty 
minutes or half an hour ; when full grown, near an hour : 
see that they are well covered with water all the time, and 
that no smoke or dirt arises from stirring the fire. With 
careful management, they will look as beautiful when dressed 
as they did when growing. 

Obs. — Some cooks say, that it will much ameliorate the 
flavour of strong old cabbages to boil them in two waters ; 
i. €. when they are half done, to take them out, and 
put them directly into another sauce-pan of boiling water, 
instead of continuing them in the water into which they 
were first put. 

Boiled Cabbage fried. — (No. 119.) 
See receipt for Bubble and Squeak. 

Savoys,— (No. 120.) 

Are boiled in the same manner ; quarter them when you 
send them to table. 

Sprouts and young Greens. — (No. 121.) 

The receipt we have written for cabbages will answer 
as well for sprouts, only they will be boiled enough in fifteen 
or twenty minutes. 

Spinage.—(No. 122.) 

Spinage should be picked a leaf at a time, and washed in 
three or four waters ; when perfectly clean, lay it on a sieve 
or colander, to dram the water from it. 

cold ; and it is sometimes cut into thin slices and brought to the tea-t^ble,as a deli* 
cate relish, owing to its agreeable nutritious sweetness. A. 



VEGETABLES. 161 

Put a sauce-pan on the fire three parts filled with water, 
and large enough for the spinage to float in it ; put a small 
handful of salt in it ; let it boil ; skim it, and then put in the 
spinage ; make it boil as quick as possible till quite tender, 
pressing the spinage down frequently that it may be done 
equally; it will be done enough in about ten minutes, if boiled 
in plenty of water : if the spinage is a little old, give it a few 
minutes longer. When done, strain it on the back of a sieve ; 
squeeze it dry with a plate, or between two trenchers ; chop 
it fine, and put it into a stew-pan with a bit of butter and a 
little salt : a little cream is a great improvement, or instead 
of either some rich gravy. Spread it in a dish, and score it 
into squares of proper size to help at table. 

Obs. — Grated nutmeg, or mace, and a little lemon-juice, 
is a favourite addition with some cooks, and is added 
when you stir it up in the stew-pan with the butter gar- 
nished. Spinage is frequently served with poached eggs 
and fried bread. 

Asparagus. — (No. 123.) 

Set a stew-pan with plenty of water in it on the fire; 
sprinkle a handful of salt in it ; let it boil, and skim it ; then 
put in your asparagus, prepared thus : scrape all the stalks 
till they are perfectly clean ; throw them into a pan of cold 
water as you scrape them ; when they are all done, tie them 
up in little bundles, of about a quarter of a hundred each, 
with bass, if you can get it, or tape (string cuts them to 
pieces) ; cut off the stalks at the bottom that they may be all 
of a length, leaving only just enough to serve as a handle 
for the green part ; when they are tender at the stalk, which 
will be in from twenty to thirty minutes, they are done 
enough. Great care must be taken to watch the exact time 
of their becoming tender ; take them up just at that instant, 
and they will have their true flavour and colour : a minute 
or two more boiling destroys both. 

While the asparagus is boiling, toast a round of a quartern 
loaf, about half an inch thick ; brown it delicately on both 
sides ; dip it lightly in 'the liquor the asparagus was boiled 
in, and lay it in the middle of a dish : melt some butter (No. 
256) ; then lay in the asparagus upon the toast, which must 
project beyond the asparagus, that the company may see 
there is a toast. 

Pour no butter over them, but send some up in a boat, or 
white sauce (No. 2 of No. 364). 

09 



162 VEGETABLES. 

Sea Kale,— {No. 124.) 

Is tied up in bundles, and dressed in the same way aa 
asparagus. 

Cauliflower. — (No. 125.) 

Choose those that are close and white, and of the middle 
size ; trim off the outside leaves ; cut the stalk off flat at 
the bottom ; let them lie in salt and water an hour before 
you boil them. 

Put them into boiling water with a handful of salt in it ; 
skim it well, and let it boil slowly till done, which a small 
one will be in fifteen, a large one in about twenty minutes ; 
take it up the moment it is enough, a minute or two longer 
boiling will spoil it. 

N.B. Cold cauliflowers and French beans, carrots and 
turnips, boiled so as to eat rather crisp, are sometimes 
dressed as a salad (No. 372 or 453). 

Broccoli.— {No. 126.) 

Set a pan of clean cold water on the table, and a sauce- 
pan on the fire with plenty of water, and a handful of salt 
in it. 

Broccoli is prepared by stripping off" all the side shoots, 
leaving the top ; peel off the skin of the stalk with a knife ; 
cut it close off at the bottom, and put it into the pan of 
cold water. 

When the water in the stew-pan boils, and the broccoli is 
ready, put it in ; let it boil briskly till the stalks feel tender, 
from ten to twenty minutes ; take it up with a slice, that 
you may not break it ; let it drain, and serve up. 

If some of the heads of broccoli are much bigger than 
the others, put them on to boil first, so that they may get all 
done together. 

Obs. — It makes a nice supper-dish served upon a toast, 
like asparagus. It is a very delicate vegetable, and you 
must take it up the moment it is done, and send it to 
table hot. 

Red Beet-roots— {No. 127.) 

Are not so much used as they deserve ; they are dressed in 
the same way as parsnips, only neither scraped nor cut till 
after they are boiled ; they will take from an hour and a half 
to three hours in boiling, according to their size : to be sent 
t9 table with salt fish, boiled beef, &c. When young, large, 



VEGETABLES. 163 

and juicy, it is a very good variety, an excellent garnish, and 
easily converted into a very cheap and pleasant pickle. 

Parsnips,— (No. 128.) 

Are to be cooked just in the same manner as carrots. They 
require more or less time according- to their size ; therefore 
match them in size : and you must try them by thrusting a 
fork into them as they are in the water; when that goes 
easily through, they are done enough. Boil them from an 
hour to two hours, according to their size and freshness. 

06s. Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same 
way as turnips, and some cooks quarter them before they 
boil them.* 

Carrots.— (No. 129.) 

Let them be well washed and brushed, not scraped. An 
hour is enough for young spring carrots ; grown carrots must 
be cut in half, and will take from an hour and a half to two 
hours and a half. When done, rub off the peels with a clean 
coarse cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their 
size. The best way to try if they are done enough, is to 
pierce them with a fork. 

Obs. INIany people are fond of cold carrot with cold beef; 
ask if you shall cook enough for some to be left to send up 
with the cold meat. 

Turnips.— {No, 130.) 

Peel off half an inch of the stringy outside. Full-grown 
turnips will take about an hour and a half gentle boiling ; if 
you slice them, which most people do, they will be done 
sooner ; tiy them with a fork ; when tender, take them up, and 
lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly dramed from 
them. Send them up whole ; do not slice them. 

N.B. To very young turnips leave about two inches of the 
green top. See No. 132. 

To mash Turnips. — (No. 131.) 

When they are boiled quite tender, squeeze them as dry 
as possible between two trenchers ; put them into a sauce- 
pan ; mash them with a wooden spoon, and rub them through 

* After parsnips are boiled, they should be put into the frying-pan and browned 
a little. Some people do not admire this vegetable, on account of its sickish sweet- 
ness. It is, however, a wholesome, cheap, and nourishing vegetable, best calculated 
for the table in winter and spring. Its sweetness may be modified by mastiing witb 
a few potatoes. A. 



164 VEGETABLES. 

a colander ; add a little bit of butter ; keep stirring them till 
the butter is melted and well mixed with them, and they are 
ready for table. 

Turnip-tops, — (No. 132.) 

Are the shoots which grow out (in the spring) of the old 
turnip-roots. Put them into cold water an hour before they 
are to be dressed ; the more water they are boiled in, the 
better they will look ; if boiled in a small quantity of water 
they will taste bitter : when the water boils, put in a small 
handful of salt, and then your vegetables ; if fresh and young, 
they will be done in about twenty minutes ; drain them on 
the back of a sieve. 

French Beans. — (No. 133.) 

Cut off the stalk end first, and then turn to the point and 
strip off the strings. If not quite fresh, have a bowl of spring- 
water, with a little salt dissolved in it, standing before you, 
and as the beans are cleaned and stringed, throw them in. 
When all are done, put them on the fire in boiling water, with 
some salt in it; after they have boiled fifteen or twenty 
minutes, take one out and taste it ; as soon as they are ten- 
der take them up ; throw them into a colander or sieve to 
drain. 

To send up the beans whole is much the best method when 
thejT^ are thus young, and their delicate flavour and colour are 
much better preserved. When a little more grown, they 
must be cut across in two after stringing ; and for common 
tables they are split, and divided across ; cut them all the 
same length ; but those who are nice never have them at such 
a growth as to require splitting. 

When they are very large they look pretty cut into lozenges. 

Obs. See N.B. to No. 125. 

Green Pease.*— {No. 134.) 

Young green pease, well dressed, are among the most deli- 
cious delicacies of the vegetable kingdom. They must be 
young ; it is equally indispensable that they be fresh gathered, 
and cooked as soon as they are shelled for they soon lose 
both their colour and sweetness. 



* These, and all other fruits and vegetables, &c., by Mr. Appkrt's plan, it is said, 
may be preserved for twelve months. See Appert's Book, 12ino. 1812. We have 
eaten of several specimens of preserved pease, which looked pretty enough, — but 
flavour they had none at all. 



VEGETABLES. 165 

If you wish to feast upon pease in perfection, you must 
have them g-athered the same day they are dressed, and put 
on to boil within half an hour after they are shelled. 

Pass them through a riddle, i. e. a coarse sieve, which is 
made for the purpose of separating- them. This precaution 
is necessary, for large and small pease cannot be boiled 
together, as the former will take more time than the latter. 

For a peck of pease, set on a sauce-pan with a gallon of 
water in it ; when it boils, put in your pease, with a table- 
spoonful of salt ; skim it well, keep them boiling quick from 
twenty to thirty minutes, according to their age and size. 
The best way to judge of their being done enough, and indeed 
the only way to make sure of cooking them to, and not 
beyond, the point of perfection, or, as pea-eaters say, of 
" boiling them to a bubble," is to take them out with a spoon 
and taste them. 

When they are done enough, drain them on a hair-sieve. 
If you like them buttered, put them into a pie-dish, divide 
some butter into small bits, and lay them on the pease ; put 
another dish over them, and turn them over and over ; this 
will melt the butter through them ; but as all people do not 
like buttered pease, you had better send them to table plain, 
as they come out of the sauce-pan, with melted butter (No. 
256) in a sauce-tureen. It is usual to boil some mint with 
the pease ; but if you wish to garnish the pease with mint, 
boil a few sprigs in a sauce-pan by themselves. See Sage 
and Onion Sauce (No. 300), and Pea Powder (No. 458) ; to 
boil Bacon (No. 13), Slices of Ham and Bacon (No. 526), and 
Relishing Rashers of Bacon (No. 527). 

N.B. A peck of young pease will not yield more than 
enough for a couple of hearty pea-eaters ; when the pods are 
full, it may serve for three. 

Mem. Never think of purchasing pease ready-shelled, for 
the cogent reasons assigned in the first part of this receipt. 

Cucumbers stewed. — (No. 135.) 

Peel and cut cucumbers in quarters, take out the seeds, 
and lay them on a cloth to drain off the water : when they 
are dry, flour and fry them in fresh butter ; let the butter be 
quite hot before you put in the cucumbers ; fry them till they 
are brown, then take them out with an egg-slice, and lay 
them on a sieve to drain the fat from them (some cooks fry 
sliced onions, or some small button onions, with them, till 
they are a delicate light-brown colour, drain them from the 
fat, and then put them into a stew-pan with as much gravy 



1 66 VEGETABLES. 

as will cover them) : stew slowly till they are tender ; take 
out the cucumbers with a slice, thicken the gravy with flour 
and butter, give it a boil up, season it with pepper and salt, 
and put in the cucumbers ; as soon as they are warm, they 
are ready. 

The above, rubbed through a tamis, or fine sieve, will be 
entitled to be called " cucumber sauce." See No. 399, Cu-'^ 
cumber Vinegar. This is a very favourite sauce with lamb 
or mutton-cutlets, stewed rump-steaks, &c. &c. : when made 
for the latter, a third part of sliced onion is sometimes fried 
with the cucumber.* 

Artichokes.— {No. 136.) 

Soak them in cold water, wash them well, then put them 
into plenty of boiling water, with a handful of salt, and let 
them boil gently till they are tender, which will take an hour 
and a half, or tv/o hours : the surest way to know when they 
are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; trim them and drain 
them on a sieve ; and send up melted butter with them, which 
some put into small cups, so that each guest may have one. 

Stewed Onions. — (No. 137.) 

The large Portugal onions are the best : take off the top- 
coats of half a dozen of these (taking care not to cut off the 
tops or tails too near, or the onions will go to pieces), and 
put them into a stew-pan broad enough to hold them without 
laying them atop of one another, and just cover them Avith 
good broth. 

Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two 
hours ; when you dish them, turn them upside down, and 
pour the sauce over. 

Young onions stewed, see No. 296. 

Salads.-~(No. 138*, also No. 372). 

Those who desire to see this subject elaborately illustrated, 
we refer to " Evelyn's Acetaria,''^ a discourse of Sallets, a 
12mo. of 240 pages. London, 1699. 

* Cucumbers may be cut into quarters and boiled like asparagus, and served up 
with toasted bread and melted butter. This is a most delicate way of preparing 
cucumbers for the dinner-table, and they are a most luscious article, and so rich and 
savoury that a small quantity will suffice. 

The ordinary method of cutting cucumbers into slices with raw onions, served up 
in vinegar, and seasoned with salt and pepper, is most vulgar and most unwhole- 
some. In their season they are cheap and plenty ; and as they are crude and unripe 
they require the stomach of an ostrich to digest them. They cause much sicknesS 
in their season, creating choleras, cramps, and dysenteries. If stewed or boiled aa 
above directed, they would be more nutritious and wholesome. A. 



PISH. 167 

Mr. E. gives us " an account of seventy-two herbs proper 
and fit to make sallet with ;" and a table of thirty-five, tell- 
ing- their seasons and proportions. " In the composure of a 
sallet, every plant should come in to bear its part, like the 
notes in music : thus the comical Master Cook introduced by 
Damoxenus, when asked, 'what harmony there was in 
meats V ' the very same,' says he, ' as the 3d, 5th, and 8th 
have to one another in music : the main skill lies in this, not 
to mingle' (' sapores minime consentientes''). ' Tastes not well 
joined, inelegant,' as our Paradisian bard directs Eve, when 
dressing a sallet for her angelical guest, in Milton's Para' 
dise Lost." 

He gives the following receipt for the oxoleon : — 

" Take of clear and perfectly good oyl-olive three parts ; 
of sharpest vinegar (sweetest of all condiments, for it incites 
appetite, and causes hunger, which is the best sauce), limon, 
or juice of orange, one part; and therein let steep some 
slices of horseradish, with a little salt. Some, in a separate 
vinegar, gently bruise a pod of Ginny pepper, and strain it 
to the other ; then add as much mustard as will lie upon a 
half-crown piece. Beat and mingle these well together with 
the yelk of two new-laid eggs boiled hard, and pour it over 
your sallet, stirring it well together. The super-curious 
insist that the knife with which sallet herb is cut must be 
of silver. Some who are husbands of their oyl, pour at first 
the oyl alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its 
slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the 
acids, which they pour on last of all ; and it is incredible how 
small a quantity of oyl thus applied is sufficient to imbue a 
very plentiful assembly of sallet herbs." 

Obs. Our own directions to prepare and dress salads will 
be found under No. 372. 



FISH, 

See Obs. on Codfish after No. 149. 

Turbot to boil.— {No. 140). 

This excellent fish is in season the greatest part of the 
summer; when good, it is at once firm and tender, and abounds 
with rich gelatinous nutriment. 



168 PISH. 

Being drawn, and washed clean, if it be quite fresh, by 
Tubbing it lightly with salt, and keeping it in a cold place, 
you may in moderate weather preserve it for a couple of 
days.* 

An hour or two before you dress it, soak it in spring- 
water with some salt in it, then score the skin across the 
thickest part of the back, to prevent its breaking on the breast, 
which will happen from the fish swelling, and cracking the 
skin, if this precaution be not used. Put a large handful of 
salt into a fish-kettle with cold water, lay your fish on a fish- 
strainer, put it in, and when it is coming to a boil, skim it 
well ; then set the kettle on the side of the fire, to boil as 
gently as possible for about fifteen or twenty minutes (if it 
boils fast, the fish will break to pieces) ; supposing it a mid- 
dling-sized turbot, and to weigh eight or nine pounds. 

Rub a little of the inside red coral spaAvn of the lobster 
through a hair sieve, without butter ; and when the turbot 
is dished, sprinkle the spawn over it. Garnish the dish 
with sprigs of curled parsley, sliced lemon, and finely-scraped 
horseradish. 

If you like to send it to table in full dress, surround it 
with nicely- fried smelts (No. 173), gudgeons are often used 
for this pui-pose, and may be bought very cheap when smelts 
are very dear ; lay the largest opposite the broadest part of 
the turbot, so that they may form a well-proportioned fringe 
for it; or oysters (No. 183*) ; or cut a sole in strips, cross- 
ways, about the size of a smelt ; fry them as directed in No. 
145, and lay them round. Send up lobster sauce (No. 284) ; 
two boats of it, if it is for a large party. 

N.B. Cold turbot, with No. 372 for sauce ; or take off the 
fillets that are left as soon as the turbot returns from table, 
and they will make a side dish for your next dinner, warmed 
in No. 364—2. 

Obs. The thickest part is the favourite ; and the cafver of 

* " I have ascertained, by manj' years' observation, that a turbot kept two or three 
days is much better eating than a very fresh one." — IJde's Cookery, p. 238. 

" TuRBOTs. The finest brought to the London market are caught off the Dutch 
coast, or German Ocean, and are brought in well-boats alive. The commencement 
of the season is generally about March and April, and continues all the summer. 
Turbots, like other fish, do not spawn all at the same time ; therefore, there is alwaya 
good and bad nearly all the year-round. For this year or two past, there has been 
an immense quantity brought to London, from all parts, and of all qualities : a great 
many from a new fishery off Hartlepool, which are very handsome-looking turbot, 
but by no means equal to what are caught off the Dutch coast. Many excellent 
turbots are caught off Dover and Dungeness; and a large quantity brought from 
Scotland, packed in ice, which are of a very inferior quality, and are generally to 
be bought for about one-fourth the price of good turbots. 

" Brills are generally caught at the same place as turbots, and are generally of the 
same uality as the turbot, from the different parts." 



FISH. 



1*69 



this fish must remember to ask his friends Tf they are fin- 
fanciers. It will save a troublesome job to the carver, if 
the cook, when the fish is boiled, cuts the. spine-bone across 
the middle. 

Jl Brill,— {No, 143.) 
Is dressed the same way as a turbot. 

Soles to 6oi7.— (No. 144.) 

A fine, fresh, thick sole is almost as good eating as a 
turbot. 

Wash and clean it nicely ; put it into a fish-kettle with a 
handful of salt, and as much cold water as will cover it ; set 
it on the side of the fire, take oif the scum as it rises, and 
let it boil gently ; about five minutes (according to its size) 
will be long enough, unless it be very large. Send it up on 
a fish-drainer, garnished with slices of lemon and sprigs 
of curled parsley, or nicely-fried smelts (No. 173), or oys- 
ters (No. 183). 

Obs. Slices of lemon are a universally acceptable garnish 
with either fried or broiled fish: a few sprigs of crisp 
parsley may be added, if you wish to make it look very 
smart ; and parsley, or fennel and butter, are excellent 
sauces (see Nos. 261 and 265), or chervil sauce (No. 264), 
anchovy (No. 270). 

N.B. Boiled soles are very good warmed up like eels, 
Wiggy's way (No. 164), or covered with white sauce (No. 
364—2 ; and see No. 158). 

SoleSf or other Fish, to fry. — (No. 145.) 

Soles are generally to be procured good from some part 
of the coast, as some are going out of season, and some 
coming in, both at the same time ; a great many are brought 
in well-boats alive, that are caught off Dover and Folk- 
stone, and some are brought from the same places by land- 
carriage. The finest soles are caught off Plymouth, near 
the Eddystone, and all the way up the channel, and to Tor- 
bay ; and frequently weigh eight or ten pounds per pair : 
they are generally brought by water to Portsmouth, and 
thence by land; but the greatest quantity are caught off 
Yarmouth and the Knole, and off the Forelands. 

Be sure they are quite fresh, or the cleverest cook cannot 
make them either look or eat well. 

An hour before you intend to dress them, wash them 

P 



170 PISH. 

thoroughly, and wrap them in a clean cloth, to make them 
perfectly dry, or the bread-crumbs will not stick to them. 

Prepare some bread-crumbs,* by rubbing some stale bread 
through a colander ; or, if you wish the fish to appear very 
delicate and highly-finished, through a hair-sieve; or use 
biscuit powder. 

Beat the 5^elk and white of an egg well together, on a 
plate, with a fork ; flour your fish, to absorb any moisture 
that may remain, and wipe it off with a clean cloth ; dip 
them in the egg on both sides all over, or, what is better, 
egg them with a paste-brush ; put the egg on in an even 
degree over the whole fish, or the bread-crumbs will not 
stick to it even, and the uneven part will burn to the pan. 
Strew the bread-crumbs all over the fish, so that they 
cover every part, take up the fish by the head, and shake 
off the loose crumbs. The fish is now ready for the fry- 
ing-pan. 

Put a quart or more of fresh sweet olive-oil, or clarified 
butter (No. 259), dripping (No. 83), lard,t or clarified drip- 
pings (No. 83) ; be sure they are quite sweet and perfectly 
clean (the fat ought to cover the fisli) : what v/e here order 
is for soles about ten inches long ; if larger, cut them into 
pieces the proper size to help at table ; this will save much 
time and trouble to the carver: when you send them to 
table, lay them in the same form they were before they Avere 
cut, and you may strew a little curled parsley over them : 
they are much easier managed in the frying-pan, and require 
less fat : fiy the thick part a few minutes before you put in 
the thin, you can by this means only fry the thick part 
enough, Avithout frying the thin too much. Very large 
soles should be boiled (No. 144), or fried in fillets (No. 
147). Soles cut in pieces, crossways, about the size of a 
smelt, make a very pretty garnish for stewed fish and 
boiled fish. 

Set the frying-pan over a sharp and clear fire ; watch it, 
skim it with an egg-slice, and when it boils,]; i. e. \\hen it 
has done bubbling, and the smoke just begins to rise from 
the surface, put in the fish: if the fat is not extremely 
hot, it is impossible to fry fish of a good colour, or to keep 

* A large pair of soles will take the fourth part of a qtiartern loaf, which now 
costs twopence halfpenny. Oatmkal is a good substitute for bread-crumbs, and 
costs comparatively nothing ! ! 

t The FAT will do ttco or three times, if strained through a hair-sieve, and put 
by ; if you do ndt find it enough, put a little fresh to it. Read No. 83, and the 3d 
chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery. 

t This requires a heat of upwards of 600 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer. 
—FRYING is, in fact, boiling' in fat. 



FISH. 



171 



them firm and crisp. (Read the 3d chapter of the Rudi- 
ments of Cookery.) 

The best way to ascertain the heat of the fat, is to try it 
with a bit of bread as big as a nut ; if it is quite hot enough, 
the bread will brown immediately. Put in the fish, and it 
will be crisp and brown on the side next the fire, in about 
four or five minutes ; to turn it, stick a t\AO-pronged fork near 
the head, and support the tail with a fish-slice, and fry the 
other side nearly the same length of time. 

Fry one sole at a time, except the pan is very large, and 
you have plenty of fat. 

^Vhen the fish are fried, lay them on a soft cloth (old table- 
cloths are best), near enough the fire to keep them w^arm; 
turn them every two or three minutes, till they are quite dry 
on both sides ; this common cooks commonly neglect. It 
will take ten or fifteen minutes,* if the fat you fried them in 
w^as not hot enough ; when it is, they want very little drying. 
When soles are fried, they will keep very good in a dry place 
for three or four days ; wann them by hanging them on the 
hooks in a Dutch oven, letting them heat very gradually, by 
putting it some distance from the fire for about twenty mi- 
nutes, or in good gravy, as eels, Wiggy's way (Nos. 164, 299, 
337, or 356). 

Obs. There are several general rules in this receipt which 
apply to all fried fish : we have been very particular and 
minute in our directions ; for, although a fried sole is so 
frequent and favourite a dish, it is very seldom brought to 
table in perfection-! 

Soles to stezv. — (No. 146.) 

These are half fried, and then done the same as eels, 
Wiggy's way. See No. 164. 

Fillets of Soles, brown or white. — (No. 147.) 
Take off the fillets very nicely, trim them neatly, and 

* If you are in haste, lay the sole on a clean, soft cloth, cover it with it, and gently 
press it upon the fish, to suck up the fat from its surface. 

t The very indifferent manner in which the operation of frying fish is usually 
performed, we suppose, produced the following jeu d'esprit, which appealed in TTie 
Morning Chronicle : — 

" The King's bench reports have cook'd up an odd dish, 
An action for damages, fry versus fish. 
But, sure, if for damages action could lie, 
It certainly must have been^A against /rt/." 

The author of TTie Cook's Cookery, 8vo. page 116, does not seem to think this fish 
can be too fresh ; for he commences his directions with, " If you can, get a cod hot 
out of the sea," &c. 



172 FISH. 

press them dry between a soft cloth ; egg, crumb, and fry 
them, &c. as directed in No. 145, or boil them, and serve 
them with No. 364 — 2. 

N.B. This is one of the best ways of dressing very large 
soles. See also No. 164. 

Skate,*— (So. 148.) 

Is very good when in good season, but no fish so bad when 
it is otherwise : those persons that like it firm and dry, should 
have it crimped ; but those that like it tender, should have 
it plain, and eat it not earlier than the second day, and if 
cold weather, three or four days old it is better : it cannot be 
kept too long, if perfectly sweet. Young skate eats very 
fine crimped and fried. See No. 154. 

Cod boiled.— (No. 149.) 

Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little salt in the inside 
of it (if the weather is very cold, a large cod is the better 
for being kept a day) : put plenty of water in your fish- 
kettle, so that the fish may be well covered ; put in a large 
handful of salt ; and when it is dissolved, put in your fish ; 
a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty minutes 
after the water boils, a large one about half an hour ; drain 
it on the fish-plate ; dish it with a garnish of the roe, liver, 
chitterlings, &c. or large native oysters, fried a light brown 
(see No. 183*), or smelts (No. 173), whitings (No. 153), the 
tailf of the cod cut in slices, or bits the size and shape of 

* The skate comes to the New- York market in the spring, but is not esteemed, 
as we have many better fish. The part about the flap or side-fin is best. A. 

t The TAIL is so much thinner than the thick part of the body, that, if boiled to- 
gether, tlie former will be boiled too much, before the latter is done enough ; there- 
fore it should be dressed separate ; and the best way of cooking it is to fry it in slices 
or fillets. See No. 151. 

" Cod generally conies into good season in October, when, if the weather is cold, 
it eats as fine as at any time in the year; towards the latter end of January and 
February, and part of March, they are mostly poor; but the latter end of Alarcb, 
April, and May, they are generally particularly fine ; having shot their spawn, they 
come in fine order. The Dogger-bank cod are the most esteemed, as they gene- 
rally cut in large, fine flakes; the north-country cod, which are caught off the 
Orkney Isles, are generally very stringy, or what is commonly called woolly^ and 
sell at a very inferior price, but are caught in much greater abundance than the 
Dogger cod. The cod are all caught with hook, and brought alive in well-boats to 
the London markets. The cod cured on the Dogger-bank is remarkably fine, and 
seldom cured above two or three weeks before brought to market ; the barrel cod is 
commonly cured on the coast of Scotland and Yorkshire. There is a great deal of 
inferior cured salt-fish brought from Newfoundland and Iceland. 

"The sKDLL of a Dogger-bank cod is one of those concatenations of tit-hits 
which some epicures are fond of, either baked or boiled : it is composed of lots of 
pretty playthings or such finery, but will not do for those who want a good meal : it 
may be bought for about 2^*. : either boil it whole, or cut it into pieces, flour and dry 
them, and then egg and crumb, and fry them, or stew it (No. 158). 



FISH. 173 

oysters, or split it, and fry it. Scolloped oysters (No. 182), 
oyster sauce (No. 278), slices of cod cut about half an 
inch thick, and fried as soles (NO. 145), are very nice. 

Mem. — The sounds (the jelly parts about the jowl), the 
palate, and the tongue are esteemed exquisites by pisci- 
vorous epicures, whose longing- eyes will keep a sharp 
look-out for a share of their favourite " honne louche :" the 
carver's reputation depends much on his equitable distribu- . 
tion of them.* < 

Salt Fish 6o?7ea.— (No. 150.) 

Salt fish requires soaking, according to the time it has 
been in salt ; trust not to those you buy it of, but taste a bit 
of one of the flakes ; that which is hard and dry requires 
two nights' soaking, changing the water two or three times ; 
the intermediate day, lay it on a stone floor : for barrelled 
cod less time will do ; and for the best Dogger-bank split 
fish, which has not been more than a fortnight or three 
weeks in salt, still less will be needful. 

Put it into plenty of cold water, and let it simmer very 
gently till it is enough ; if the water boils, the fish will be 
tough and thready.f For egg sauce, see No. 267 ; and to 
boil red beet-root. No. 127; parsnips. No. 128; Carrots, 
No. 129. Garnish salt fish with the yelks of eggs cut into 
quarters. 

Obs. — Our favourite vegetable accompaniment is a dish of 
equal parts of red beet-root and parsnips. 

N.B. Salted fish differs in quality quite as much as it 
does in price. 

" The TAIL of a cod cut in fillets or slices, and fried, makes a good dish, and is 
generally to be bouglit at a very reasonable rate ; if boiled, it is soft and watery. 
The skull and tail of a cod is a favourite and excellent Scotch dish, stewed, and 
served up with anchovy or ojster sauce, with the liquor it is boiled in, in a tureen. 

" Ling- is brought to the London market in the same manner as cod, but is very 
inferior to it, either fresh or salt." 

* There are several species of codfish sold alive in the New- York markets : of 
these, the common cod is the best, and is in season from November till spring. 
The price varies from three to six cents the pound, as the market is well or scantily 
supplied. The head and shoulders of a large cod, boiled, is the best part to grace the 
dinner-table. It is full of rich gelatinous matter, which is savoury and easy of 
digestion. Cod's sounds and tongues are found on the stalls of the fishmongers in 
the winter season. They are rich and nourishing, and may be prepared to garnish 
the dish, or served up separately boiled. A. 

t "In the sea-port towns of the New-England states in North America, it has 
been a custom, time immemorial, among people of fashion, to dine one day in the * 
week (Saturday) on salt fish ; and a long habit of preparing the same dish has, as 
might have been expected, led to very considerable improvements in the art of 
cooking it. I have often heard foreigners declare, that they never tasted salt fish 
dressed in such perfection : the secret of cooking it, is to keep it for several hours 
in water that is just scalding hot, but which is never made actually to boil." — 
Count Eumforp's 10th Essay, p. 18. 

P2 



174 FISH. 

Slices of Cod boiled.— (No. 151.) 

Half an hour before you dress them, put them into cold 
spring-water with some salt in it. 

Lay them at the bottom of a fish-kettle, with as much 
cold spring-water as will cover them, and some salt ; set it 
on a quick fire, and when it boils, skim it, and set it on one 
side of the fire to boil very gently, for about ten minutes, 
according to its size and thickness. Garnish with scraped 
horseradish, slices of lemon, and a slice of the liver on one 
side, and chitterling on the other. Oyster sauce (No. 278), 
and plain butter. 

Obs. — Slices of cod (especially the tail, split) are very 
good, fried like soles (No. 145), or stewed in gravy like eels 
(No. 164, or No. 364—2).* 

Fresh Sturgeon. — (No. 152.) 

The best mode of dressing this, is to have it cut in thin 
slices like veal cutlets, and broiled, and rubbed over -vrith 
a bit of butter and a little pepper, and served very hot, and 
eaten with a squeeze of lemon-juice. Great care, however, 
must be taken to cut off the skin before it is broiled, as the 
oil in the skin, if burned, imparts a disgusting flavour to the 
fish. The flesh is very fine, and comes nearer to veal, perhaps, 
than even turtle. 

Sturgeon is frequently plentiful and reasonable in the 
London shops. We prefer this mode of dressing it to the 
more savoury one of stewing it in rich gravy, like carp, &c. 
which overpowers the peculiar flavour of the fish.f 

Whitings fried. — (No. 153.) 

SkinJ them, preserve the liver (see No. 228), and fasten 
their tails to their mouths ; dip them in egg, then in bread- 
crumbs, and fry them in hot lard (read No. 145), or split 
them, and fiy them like fillets of soles (No. 147). 

A three-quart stew-pan, half full of fat, is the best utensil 
to fry whitings. They will be done enough in about five 

* That part of a cod which is near the tail, is considered, in America, as the 
poorest part of the fish. A. 

t Sturgeons, though sea-fish, ascend the fresh-water rivers, and in the Hudson are 
taken 60 miles above the salt water. They were formerly called Albany beef, 
having been in plenty and cheap in the market of that city. They are not, how- 
ever, esteemed even there ; and since the running of the steamboats, and the quick- 
ness of their passages, all the valuable fish of the sea-coast are found in that inland 
citv. A. 

t The French do not flay them, but split them, dip them in flour, and fry them m 
Iiot dripping. 



FISH. 175 

minutes ; but it will sometimes require a quarter of an hour 
to drain the fat from them and dry them (if the fat you put 
them into was not hot enough), turning them now and then 
with a fish-slice. 

Obs. — When whitings are scarce, the fishmongers can 
skin and truss young codlings, so that you can hardly tell 
the difference, except that a codling wears a beard, and a 
whiting does not : this distinguishing mark is sometimes 
cut off; however, if you turn up his jowl, you may see the 
mark where the beard was, and thus discover whether he be 
a real whiting, or a shaved codling. 

Skate fried.— '{No. 154.) 

After you have cleaned the fish, divide it into fillets ; dry 
them on a clean cloth ; beat the yelk and white of an egg 
thoroughly together, dip the fish in this, and then in fine 
bread-crumbs ; fry it in hot lard or drippings till it is of a 
delicate brown colour; lay it on a hair-sieve to drain ; garnish 
with crisp parsley (No. 318), and some like caper sauce, 
with an anchovy in it. 

Plaice or Flounders, fried or boiled. — (No. 155.) 

Flounders are perhaps the most difficult fish to fry very 
nicely. Clean them well, flour them, and wipe them with a 
dr)?^ cloth to absorb all the water from them ; flour or egg 
and bread-crumb them, &c. as directed in No. 145. 

To boil Flounders. 

Wash and clean them well, cut the black side of them 
the same as you do turbot, then put them into a fish- 
kettle, with plenty of cold water and a handful of salt ; 
when they come to a boil, skim them clean, and let them 
stand by the side of the fire for five minutes, and they are 
ready. 

06s. — Eaten with plain melted butter and a little salt, you 
have the sweet delicate flavour of the flounder, which is 
!overpowered by any sauce. 

Water Souchy,*—{No. 156.) 
Is made with flounders, whitings, gudgeons, or eels. These 

* One of my culinary counsellors says, the heading of this receipt should be, 
^^ How to dress a good dish of fish ichile the cloth is laying-." If the articles are 
ready, twelve minutes will do it, wiih very little trouble or expense. For richer 
slewed fish, see INo. 1G4. 



1 76 PISH. 

must be quite fresh, and very nicely cleaned ; for what they 
are boiled in, is the sauce for them. 

Wash, gut, and trim your fish, cut them into handsome 
pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with just as much water 
as will cover them, with some parsley, or parsley-roots 
sliced, an onion minced fine, and a little pepper and salt 
(to this some cooks add some scraped horseradish and a 
bay leaf) ; skim it carefully when it boils ; when your fish 
is done enough (which it will be in a few minutes), send it 
up in a deep dish, lined with bread sippetg, and some slices 
of bread and butter on a plate. 

Obs. — Some cooks thicken the liquor the fish has been 
stewing in Avith flour and butter, and flavour it with white 
wine, lemon-juice, essence of anchovy, and catchup; and 
boil down two or three flounders, &c. to make a fish broth 
to boil the other fish in, observing, that the broth cannot be 
good unless the fish are boiled too much. 

Haddock boiled. — (No. 157.) 

Wash it well, and put it on to boil, as directed in No. 149 ; 
a haddock of three pounds will take about ten minutes after 
the kettle boils. 

Haddocks, salted a day or two, are eaten with egg sauce, 
or cut in fillets, and fried. Or, if small, very well broiled, 
or baked, with a pudding in their belly, and some good 
gravy. 

Obs. A piscivorous epicure protests that " Haddock is the 
poorest fish that swims, and has neither the delicacy of the 
whiting, nor the juicyness of the cod."* 

Findhorn Haddocks. — (No. 157*.) 

Let the fish be well cleaned, and laid in salt for two 
hours ; let the water drain from them, and then wet them 
with the pyroligneous acid ; they may be split or not : they 
are then to be hung in a dry situation for a day or two, or a 
week or two, if you please ; when broiled, they have all the 
flavour of the Findhorn haddock, and will keep sweet for a 
long time. 

The pyroligneous acid, applied in the same way to beef or 
mutton, gives the fine smoke flavour, and may be kept for a^ 
considerable length of time. 

Scotch way of dressing haddocks. — A haddock is quite like 
a diflferent fish in London and in Edinburgh, which arises 

* Our experience goes to substantiate the same point. A. 



FISH. 177 

chiefly from the manner in which they are treated : a haddock 
should never appear at table with its head and skin on. For 
boiling-, they are all the better for lying- a night in salt ; of 
course they do not take so long- to boil without the skin, and 
require to be M-ell skimmed to preserve the colour. After 
lying- in salt for a night, if you han^; them up for a day or 
two, they are very good broiled and served with cold butter. 
For frying-, they should be split and boned very carefully, 
and divided into convenient pieces, if too large to halve 
merely ; eg-g and crumb them, and fry in a good deal of lard ; 
they resemble soles when dressed in this manner. There is 
another very delicate mode of dressing them ; you split the 
fish, rub it well with butter, and do it before the fire in a 
Dutch oven. 

To stew Cod''s Skull, Sole, Carp, Trout, Perch, Eel, or 
Flounder.— No. 158. (See also No. 164.) 

When the fish has been properly washed, lay it in a stew- 
pan, with half a pint of claret or port wine, and a quart of 
good gravy (No. 329) ; a large onion, a dozen berries of 
black pepper, the same of allspice, and a few cloves, or a 
bit of mace: cover the fish-kettle close, and let it stew 
gently for ten or twenty minutes, according to the thickness 
of the fish : take the fish up, lay it on a hot dish, cover it up, 
and thicken the liquor it was stewed in with a little flour, 
and season it with pepper, salt, essence of anchovy, mush- 
room catchup, and a little Chili vinegar ; w^hen it has boiled 
ten mirmtes, strain it through a tamis, and pour it over the 
fish : if there is more sauce than the dish will hold, send the 
rest up in a boat. 

The river trout comes into season in April, and continues 
till July ; it is a delicious fish ; those caught near Uxbridge 
come to town quite alive. 

The eels and perch from the same water are very fine. 

Obs. — These fish are very nice plain boiled, with No. 261, 
or No. 264, for sauce ; some cooks dredge them with flour, 
and fry them a light brown before they put them on to 
stew, and stuff" them with No. 374, or some of the stuffings 
following. 

To dress them maigre. 

Put the fish into a stew-pan, with a large onion, four 
cloves, fifteen berries of allspice, and the same of black 
pepper ; just cover them with boiling water, set it where 
they will simmer gently for ten or twenty minutes, accord- 



178 FISH. 

ing- to the size of the fish ; strain off the liquor in another 
stew-pan, leaving the fish to keep warm till the sauce is 
re ady. 

Rub together on a plate as much flour and butter as will 
make the sauce as thick as a double cream. Each pint of 
sauce season with a glass of wine, half as much mushroom 
catchup, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy, and a few 
grains of Cayenne ; let it boil a few minutes, put the fish on 
a deep dish, strain the gravy over it ; garnish it with sippets 
of bread toasted or fried (No. 319). 

N.B. The editor has paid particular attention to the above 
receipt, and also to No. 224, which Catholics, and those 
whose religious tenets do not allow them to eat meat on 
maigre days, will find a very satisfactory substitute for the 
meat gravy soup (No. 200). 

For sauce for maigre dishes, see Nos. 225, 305, and 
364—2. 

Obs. ^Mushroom catchup (No. 439) and onions (No. 402) 
supply the place of meat better than any thing; if you have 
not these, wine, spice (No. 457), curry powder (No. 455), 
aromatic roots and herbs, anchovy and soy, or oyster catchup 
(No. 441), variously combined, and thickened with flour and 
butter, are convenient substitutes. 



Maigre Fish Pies. 

Salt-fish pie. The thickest part must be chosen, and put 
in cold water to soak the night before wanted ; then boil it 
well, take it up, take away the bones and skin, and if it is 
good fish it will be in fine layers ; set it on a fish-drainer to 
get cold : in the mean time, boil four eggs hard, peel and slice 
themveiy thin, the same quantit}' of onion sliced thin; line 
the bottom of a pie-dish with fish forcemeat (No. 383), or a 
layer of potatoes sliced thin, then a la^'er of onions, then of 
fish, and of eggs, aiid so on till the dish is full ; season each 
layer with a little pepper, then mix a tea-spoonful of made 
mustard, the same of essence of anchovy, a little mushroom 
catchup, in a gill of water, put it in the dish, then put on the 
top an omice of fresh butter broke in bits ; cover it with puff 
paste, and bake it one hour. 

Fresh cod maybe done in the same way, bv adding a little 
salt. 

All fish for making pies, whether soles, flounders, herrings, 
salmon, lobster, eels, trout, tench, &c. should be dressed 
first ; this is the most economical way for Catholic families, 



FISH. 1 79 

as what is boiled one day will make excellent pies or patties 
the next. 

If you intend it for pics, take the skin off, and the bones 
out ; lay your salmon, soles, turbot, or codfish, in layers, and 
season each layer with equal quantities of pepper, allspice, 
mace, and salt, till the dish is full. Save a little of the 
liquor that the fish was boiled in ; set it on the fire with the 
bones and skin of the fish, boil it a quarter of an hour, then 
strain it through a sieve, let it settle, and pour it in the dish; 
cover it with puif-paste ; bake it about an hour and a quarter. 
Shrimps, prawns, or oysters added, wiU improve the above ; 
if for patties, they must be cut in small pieces, and dressed 
in a beshamell sauce (No. 364). 

Cod-sounds for a pie should be soaked at least twenty-four 
hours, then well washed, and put on a cloth to dry. Put Id 
a stew-pan two ounces of fresh butter, with four ounces of 
sliced onions ; fiy them of a nice brown, then put in a small 
table-spoonful of flour, and add half a pint of boiling water; 
when smooth, put in about ten cod-sounds, and season them 
with a little pepper, a glass of white M'ine, a tea-spoonful of 
essence of anchovy, the juice of half a lemon; stir it well 
together, put it in a pie-dish, cover it with paste, and bake it 
one hour. 

Perchi Roach, Dace, Gudgeons, <S*c. fried. — (No. 159.) 

Wash the fish well, wipe them on a dry cloth, flour them 
lightly all over, and fiy them ten minutes (No. 145) in hot 
lard or drippings ; lay them on a hair-sieve to drain ; send 
them up on a hot dish, garnished with sprigs of green parsley. 
Anchovy sauce, Nos. 270 and 433. 

Perch boiled.*— (No. 160.) 

Clean them carefully, and put them in a fish-kettle, with as 
much cold spring-water as Avill cover them, with a handful 
of salt ; set them on a quick fire till they boil ; when they 
boil, set them on one side to boil gently for about ten minutes, 
according to their size. 

Salmon, Herrings, Sprats, Mackerel, ^c, pickled. — (No. 161.) 

Cut the fish into proper pieces ; do not take off the scales ; 
make a brine strong enough to bear an egg, in which boil the 
fish ; it must be boiled in only just liquor enough to cover it ; 

* The perch of New- York are a small fresh-water fish, and seldom boiled, being 
belter calculated for frying or broilingi as a relish at breakfast. A. 



180 FISH. 

do not overboil it. When the fish is boiled, lay it slantingly 
to drain off all the liquor ; when cold, pack it close in the 
kits, and fill them up with equal parts of the liquor the salmon 
was boiled in (having first well skimmed it), and best vinegar 
(No. 24) ; let them rest for a day ; fill up again, striking the 
sides of the kit with a cooper's adze, until the kit will receive 
no more ; then head them down as close as possible. 

Obs. This is in the finest condition when fresh. Salmon 
is most plentiful about midsummer ; the season for it is from 
February to September. Some sprigs of fresh-gathered 
young fennel are the accompaniments. 

N.B. The three indispensable marks of the goodness of 
pickled salmon are, 1st, The brightness of the scales, and 
their sticking fast to the skin ; 2dly, The firmness of the 
flesh ; and, 3dly, Its fine, pale-red rose colour. Without 
these it is not fit to eat, and was either stale before it was 
pickled, or has been kept too long after. 

The above Avas given us as the actual practice of those 
who pickle it for the London market. 

N.B. Pickled salmon warmed by steam, or in its pickle 
liquor, is a favourite dish at Newcastle. 

Salmon* boiled.— (No. 162.) 

Put on a fish-kettle, with spring-water enough to well 
cover the salmon you are going to dress, or the salmon will 
neither look nor taste well: (boil the liver in a separate 
saucepan.) When the water boils, put in a handful of salt ; 

* Salmon. The earliest that comes in season to the London market is brought 
from the Severn, and begins to come into season the beginning of November, but 
very fbw so early, perhaps not above one in fifty, as many of them will not shoot 
their spawn till January, or after, and then continue in season till October, when 
they begin to get very tliin and poor. The principal supply of salmon is from dif- 
ferent parts of Scotland, packed in ice, and brought by water : if the vessels have 
a fair wind, they will be in London in three days ; but it frequently happens that 
they are at sea perhaps a fortnight, when the greater part of the fish is perished, 
and has, for a y«ar or two past, sold as low as twopence per pound, and up to as 
much as eigliteen pence per pound at the same time, owing to its dilferent degrees 
of goodness. This accounts for the very low prices at which the itinerant fish- 
mongers cry their " delicate salmon," " dainty fresh salmon," and " live cod," " neio 
mackerel," &c. &c. 

" Salmon gwilis, or salmon peel, are the small salmon which run from about five 
or six pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and make handsome dishes of fish, 
sent to table crooked in the form of an S. 

" Berwick trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught in the river 
Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt. 

" Calvered salnvon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slices alive ; 
and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, and cut. A few 
slices make a handsome, genteel dish, but it is generally very expensive ; some- 
times 155. per pound." 

[Fresh salmon comes to the New- York market from the eastern states, and mostly 
from Maine. It is also occasionally brought from the lakes and rivers of the northerq 
part of New- York in winter. A.] 



FISH. 181 

take off the scum as soon as it rises; have the fish well 
washed ; put it in, and if it is thick, let it boil very gently. 
Salmon requires almost as much boiling- as meat ; about a 
quarter of an hour to a pound of fish : but practice only can 
perfect the cook in dressing salmon. A quarter of a salmon 
will take almost as long boiling as half a one : you must con- 
sider the thickness, not the weight : ten pounds of fine full- 
grown salmon will be done in an hour and a quarter. Lob- 
ster Sauce, No. 284. 

Obs. The thinnest part of the fish is the fattest ; and if you 
have a " grand gourmand" at table, ask him if he is for thick 
or thin. 

The Thames salmon is preferred in the London market ; 
and some epicures pretend to be able to distinguish by the 
taste, in which reach of the river it was caught ! ! ! 

N.B. If you have any left, put it into a pie-dish, and cover 
it with an equal portion of vinegar and pump-water, and a 
little salt : it will be ready in three days. 

Fresh Salmon broiled. — (No. 163.) 

' Clean the salmon well, and cut it into slices about an inch 
and a half thick ; dry it thoroughly in a clean cloth ; rub it 
over with sweet oil, or thick melted butteii, and sprinkle a 
little salt over it : put your gridiron over a clear fire, at some 
distance ; when it is hot wipe it clean ; rub it with sweet oil 
or lard ; lay the salmon on, and when it is done on one side, 
turn it gently and broil the other. Anchovy sauce, &c. 
Obs. An oven does them best. 

Soles or Eels* S,'C. S,'c. stewed Wiggy's way. — (No. 164.) 

Take two pounds of fine silvert eels : the best are those 
that are rather more than a half-crown piece in circum- 
ference, quite fresh, full of life, and " as brisk as an eel :" 
such as have been kept out of water till they can scarce stir, 
are good for nothing : gut them, rub them with salt till the 
slime is cleaned from them, v/ash them in several different 
waters, and divide them into pieces about four inches long. 
• Some cooks, after skinning them, dredge them with a little 
flour, wipe them dry, and then egg and crmnb them, and fry 

* Small fish and fillets of whitin?, turbots, brills, &c. and slices of cod, or the 
head or tail of it, are excellent dressed the same way. 

t The yellow eels taste muddy ; the whiteness of the belly of the fish is not the 
only mark to know the best ; the right colour of the back is a very bright coppery 
hue : the olive-coloured are inferior ; and those tending to a creen are \vorse. 

Q 



182 FISH. 

them in drippings till they are brown, and lay them to dry on 
a hair sieve. 

Have ready a quart of good beef gravy (No. 329) ; it must 
be cold when you put the eels into it : set them on a slow fire 
to simmer very gently for about a quarter of an hour, accord- 
ing to the size of the eels ; watch them, that they are not 
done too much ; take them carefully out of the stew-pan with 
a fish-slice, so as not to tear their coats, and lay them on a 
dish about two inches deep. 

Or, if for m^aigre days, when you have skiimed your eels, 
throw the skins into salt and water; wash them well; then 
put them into a stew-pan with a quart of water, two onions, 
with two cloves stuck in each, and one blade of mace ; let 
it boil twenty minutes, and strain it through a sieve into a 
basin. 

Make the sauce about as thick as cream, by mixing a little 
flom- with it ; put in also two table-spoonfuls of port wine, 
and one of mushroom catchup, or cavice : stir it into the 
sauce by degrees, give it a boil, and strain it to the fish 
through a sieve. 

N.B. If mushroom sauce (Nos. 225, 305, or 333), or white 
sauce (No. 364 — 2), be used instead of beef gravy, this will 
be one of the most relishing maigre dishes we know. 

Obs. To kill eels instantly, without the horrid torture of 
cutting and skinning them alive, pierce the spinal marrow, 
close to the back part of the skull, with a sharp-pointed 
skewer : if this be done in the right place, all motion will 
instantly cease. The humane executioner does certain cri- 
minals the favour to hang them before he breaks them on 
the wheel. 

To fry Eels.— {No. 165.) 

Skin and gut them, and wash them well in cold water, cut 
them in pieces four inches long, season them with pepper and 
salt ; beat an egg well on a plate, dip them in the egg, and 
then in fine bread-crumbs ; fry them in fresh, clean lard ; 
drain them well from the fat ; garnish with crisp parsley. 
For sauce, plain and melted butter, sharpened with lemon- 
juice, or parsley and butter. 

Spitchocked Eels.— {No. 166.) 

This the French cooks call the English Avay of dressing 
eels. 

Take two middling-sized silver eels, leave the skin on, 
scour them with salt, and wash them, cut off the heads, slit 



FISH. 183 

them on the belly side, and take out the bones and guts, and 
wash and wipe them nicely ; then cut them into pieces about 
three inches long, and wipe them quite dry; put two ounces 
of butter into a stew-pan with a little minced parsley, thyme, 
sage, pepper, and salt, and a veiy little chopped eschalot ; 
set the stew-pan over the fire ; when the butter is melted, stir 
the ingredients together, and take it off the fire, mix the yelks 
of two eggs with them, and dip the eel in, a piece at a time, 
and then roll them in bread-crmnbs, making as much stick 
to them as you can ; then rub the gridiron with a bit of suet, 
set it high over a veiy clear fire, and broil your eels of a fine 
crisp brown. Dish them with crisp parsley, and send up 
with plain butter in a boat, and anchovy and butter. 

Obs. We like them better with the skin off; it is very apt 
to offend delicate stomachs. 

Mackerel boiled.* — (No. 67.) 

This fish loses its life as soon as it leaves the sea, and the 
fresher it is the better. 

Wash and clean them thoroughly (the fishmongers seldom 
do this sufficiently), put them into cold water with a handful 
of salt in it ; let them rather simmer than boil ; a small 
mackerel will be done enough in about a quarter of an hour ; 
when the eye starts and the tail splits, they are done ; do not 
let them stand in the water a moment after ; they are so 
delicate that the heat of the water will break them. 

This fish, in London, is rarely fresh enough to appear at 
table in perfection ; and either the mackerel is boiled too 
much, or the roef too little. The best way is to open a slit 
opposite the middle of the roe, you can then clean it pro- 
perly ; this will allow the water access, and the roe will then 
be done as soon as the fish, which it seldom is otherwise ; 
some sagacious gourmands insist upon it they must be taken 
out and boiled separately. For sauce, see Nos. 263, 265, 
and 266 ; and you may garnish them with pats of minced 
fennel. 

* There are several species of mackerel in their season in the New- York market. 
That which arrives in tlie spring is most esteemed, and in greatest plenty. Spring 
mackerel is a migrating fish, and succeeds the shad, or commences its "run along 
the coast of New- Jersey and Long Island, just before the shad disappears. It does 
not ascend the rivers, but continues its course north-eastward in immense shoals, 
and is taken by the fishermen with the hook and line, while sailine in smacks along 
the coast, from the mouth of the Delaware to Nova Scotia. These fish are kept in 
cars, and sold alive in the markets. They are mostly broiled, and brought to the 
breakfast-table. The larger ones sometimes grace the dining-table. They may 
be boiled, but are best when stutfed and baked in an oven. A. 

t The roe of the male fish is soft, like the brains of a calf; that of the female is 
full of small eggs, and called hard roe. 



184 FISH. ' 

N.B. The common notion is, that mackerel are in best 
condition when fullest of roe ; however, the fish at that time 
is only valuable for its roe, the meat of it has scarcely any 
flavour. 

Mackerel generally make their appearance off the Land's 
End about the beginning' of April ; and as the weather gets 
warm they gradually come round the coast, and generally 
arrive off Brighton about May, and continue for some 
months, until they begin to shoot their spawn. 

After they have let go their roes, they are called shotten 
mackerel, and are not worth catching ; the roe, which was 
all that was good of them, being gone. 

It is in the early season, when they have least roe, that 
the flesh of this fish is in highest perfection. There is also 
an after-season, when a few fine large mackerel are taken, 
{i. e. during the herring season, about October,) which some 
piscivorous epicures are very partial to ; these fish having 
had time to fatten and recover their health, are full of high 
flavour, and their flesh is firm and juicy : they are commonly 
called silver mackerel, from their beautiful appearance, their 
colour being almost as bright when boiled as it was the 
moment they were caught. 

Mackerel broiled.— {No. 169.) 

Cle*i a fine large mackerel, wipe it on a dry cloth, and 
cut a long slit down the back ; lay it on a clean gridiron, 
over a very clear, slow fire ; when it is done on one side, 
turn it ; be careful that it does not burn ; send it up with 
fennel sauce (No. 265) ; mix well together a little finely 
minced fennel and parsley, seasoned with a little pepper and 
salt, a bit of fresh butter, and when the mackerel are ready 
for the table, put some of this into each fish. 

Mackerel baked.*— {No. 170.) 

Cut off" their heads, open them, and take out the roes and 
clean them thoroughly ; rub them on the inside with a little 
pepper and salt, put the roes in again, season them (with a 
mixture of powdered allspice, black pepper, and salt, well 
rubbed together), and lay them close in a baking-pan, cover 
them with equal quantities of cold vinegar and water, tie 
them down with strong white paper doubled, and bake 

* Mackerel of large size may be stuffed like a fowl, leaving the head on, and 
baked in an oven. A. 



FISH. 105 

them for an hour in a slow oven. Tliey will keep for a 
fortnight. 

Pickled Mackerel, Herrings, or l^rats. — (No. 171.) 

Procure them as fresh as possible, split them, take off the 
heads, and trim off the thin part of the belly, put them into 
salt and water for one hour, drain and wipe your fish, and 
put them into jars or casks, with the following preparation, 
which is enough for three dozen mackerel. Take salt and 
bay-salt, one pound each, saltpetre and lump-sugar, two 
ounces each ; grind and pound the salt, &c. well together, 
put the fish into jars or casks, with a layer of the prepara- 
tion at the bottom, then a layer of mackerel with the skin- 
side downwards, so continue alternately till the cask or jar 
is full; press it down and cover it close. In about three 
months they will be fit for use. 

Sprats broiled.— {No. 170* — Fried, see No. 173.) 

If you have not a sprat gridiron, get a piece of pointed 
iron wire as thick as packthread, and as long as your grid- 
iron is broad ; run this through the heads of your sprats, 
sprinkle a little flour and salt over them, put your gridiron 
over a clear, quick fire, turn them in about a couple of mi- 
nutes ; when the other side is brown, draw out the wire, and 
send up the fish with melted butter in a cup. 

Obs. That sprats are young herrings, is evident by their 
anatomy, in which there is no perceptible difference. They 
appear very soon after the herrings are gone, and seem to 
be the spawn just vivified. 

Sprats stewed.^iNo. 170**.) 

Wash and dry your sprats, and lay them as level as you 
can in a stew-pan, and between every layer of sprats put 
three peppercorns, and as many allspice, with a few grains 
of salt ; barely cover them with vinegar, and stew them one 
hour over a slow fire; they must not boil: a bay-leaf is 
sometimes added. Herrings or mackerel may be stewed 
the same way. 

To fry sprats, see No. 173. 

Herrings broiled. — (No. 171*.) 

Wash them well, then dry them with a cloth, dust them 
with flour, and broil them over a slow fire till they are v/ell 
done. Send up melted butter in a boat. 



186 FISH. 

Obs. For a particular account of herrings, see Solas 
Dodd's Natural Hist, of Herrings, in 178 pages, 8vo. 1752. 

Red Herrings, and other dried Fish, — (No. 172.) 

" Should be cooked in the same manner as now practised 
by the poor in Scotland. They soak them in water until 
they become pretty fresh ; they are then hung up in the sun 
and Mand, on a stick through their eyes, to dry ; and then 
boiled or broiled. In this way they eat almost as well as if 
they were new caught." See the Hon. John Cochrane's 
Seaman's Guide, Bvo. 1797, p. 34. 

" Scotch haddocks should be soaked all night. You may 
boil or broil them. ; if 3^ou broil, split them in two. 

" All the different sorts of dried fish, except stock fish, are 
salted, dried in the sun in prepared kilns, or by the smoke of 
wood fires, and require to be softened and freshened, in pro- 
portion to their bulk, nature, or dryness ; the very dry sort, 
as cod, whiting, &c. should be steeped in lukewarm water, 
kept as near as possible to an equal degree of heat. The 
larger fish should be steeped twelve hours, the smaller about 
two ; after which they should be taken out and hung up by 
the tails until they are dressed. The reason for hanging 
them up is, that they soften equally as in the steeping, with- 
out extracting too much of the relish, which would render 
them insipid. When thus prepared, the small fish, as whiting, 
tusks, &c. should be floured and laid on the gridiron ; and 
when a little hardened on one side, must be turned and 
basted with sweet oil upon a feather ; and when basted on 
both sides, and well heated through, taken up. A clear 
charcoal fire is the best for cooking them, and the fish should 
be kept at a good distance, to broil gradually. When ' they 
are done enough they will swell a little in the basting, and 
you must not let them fall again. If boiled, as the larger 
fish generally are, they should be kept just simmering over 
an equal fire, in which way half an hour will do the largest 
fish, and five minutes the smallest. 

" Dried salmon, though a large fish, does not require more 
steeping than a \vhiting ; and when laid on the gridiron should 
be moderately peppered. To herring and to all kinds of 
broiled salt fish, sweet oil is the best basting." 

The above is from Macdonald's London Family Cook, 8vo. 
1808, p. 139. 

Obs. Dr. Harte, in his Essay on Diet, 1633, fol. p. 91, pro- 
tests, " a red herring doth nourish little, and is hard of con- 



FISH. 187 

coction, but veiy good to make a cup of good drink relish 
well, and may be well called ' the drunkard's delight.' " 

Smelts, Gudgeons, Sprats, or other small Fish, fried. — (No. 17-3.) 

Clean and dr}'^ them thoroughly in a cloth, fry them plain, 
or beat an egg on a plate, dip them in it, and then in very fine 
bread-crumbs that have been rubbed through a sieve ; the 
smaller the fish, the finer should be the bread-crumbs — biscuit 
powder is still better; fry them in plenty of clean lard or 
drippings ; as soon as the lard boils and is still, put in the 
fish ; when they are delicately browned, thej^ are done ; this 
will hardly take two minutes. Drain them on a hair-sieve, 
placed before the fire, turning them till quite dry. Obs. Read 
No. 145. 

" Smelts are allowed to be caught in the Thames, on the 
first of November, and continue till May. The Thames 
smelts are the best and sweetest, for tAvo reasons ; they are 
fresher and richer than any other you can get : they catch 
them much more plentiful and larger in Lancashire and Nor- 
folk, but not so good : a great many are brought to town 
from Norfolk, but barely come good, as they are a fish which 
should always be eaten fresh ; indeed, all river fish should be 
eaten fresh, except salmon, which, unless crimped, eats bet- 
ter the second or third day : but all Thames fish, particularly, 
should be eaten very fresh ; no fish eats so bad kept." 

Potted Prawns, Shrimps, or Cray-fish. — (No. 175.) 

Boil them in water with plenty of salt in it. When you 
have picked them, powder them vnih a little beaten mace, 
or grated nutmeg, or allspice, and pepper and salt ; add a 
little cold butter, and pound all well together in a marble 
mortar till of the consistence of paste. Put it into pots co- 
vered with clarified butter, and cover them over with wetted 
bladder. 

Lobster,*— {No. 176.) 

Buy these alive ; the lobster merchants sometimes keep 
them till they are starved, before they boil them ; they are 
then water)^, have not half their flavour, and like other 
persons that die of a consumption, have lost the calf of their 
legs. 

* Lobstevs are in great plenty and perfection in the New-York markets. They 
are taken in Long Inland Sound, and along the rocky shores of Connecticut, Rhode 
Island, and Jlassachusetls. A. 



188 FISH. 

Choose those that (as an old cook says, are "heavy and 
lively," and) are full of motion, which is the index of their 
freshness. 

Those of the middle size are the best. Never take them 
when the shell is incrusted, which is a sign they are old. 
The male lobster is preferred to eat, and the female (on 
accomit of the egg-s) to make sauce of. The hen lobster 
is distinguished by having a broader tail than the male, and 
less claws. 

Set on a pot, with water salted in the proportion of a table- 
spoonful of salt to a quart of water ; when the water boils, 
put it in, and keep it boiling briskly from half an hour to an 
hour, according to its size ; wipe all the scum off it, and rub 
the shell with a very little iDutter or sweet oil ; break off the 
great claws, crack them carefully in each joint, so that they 
may not be shattered, and yet come to pieces easily ; cut 
the tail down the middle, and send up the body whole. For 
sauce. No. 285. To pot lobster. No. 178. 

*** These fish come in about April, and continue plentiful 
till the oyster season returns ; after that time they begin to 
spawn, and seldom open solid. 

Cra.^.— (No. 177.) 

The above observations apply to crabs, which should 
neither be too small nor too large. The best size are those 
which measure about eight inches across the shoulders. 

*^* Crabs appear and disappear about the same time as 
lobsters. The cromer crabs are most esteemed; but num- 
bers are brought from the Isle of Wight. 

Potted Lobster or Cm6.*— (No. 178). 

This must be made with fine hen lobsters, when full of 
spawn: boil them thoroughly (No. 176); when cold, pick 
out all the solid meat, and pound it in a mortar : it is usual 
to add, by degrees, (a very little) finely-pounded mace, black 
or Cayenne pepper, salt, and, while poimding, a little Ijutter. 
When the whole is well mixed, and beat to the consistence 
of paste, press it down hard in a preserving-pot, pour clari- 
fied butter over it, and cover it with wetted bladder. 

Ohs. — Some put lobster without pounding it, and only cut 
it or pull it into such pieces as if it was prepared for sauce, 
and mince it with the spawn and soft parts and seasoning, 

* Crabs are not esteemed as a delicacy by epicures unless they are soft, when 
they are fried whole. In July and August they shed their coats, and in this state 
mav be cooked and eaten without being incommoded with their shells. A. 



FISH. 189 

and press it together as close as possible ; in packing it, 
place the coral and spawn, &c. in layers, so that it may look 
regular and handsome when cut out. If you intend it as 
store (see N.B. to No. 284, to make sauce with), this is the 
best way to do it ; but if for sandwiches, &c. the first is the 
best, and will keep much longer. 

Dressed or buttered lobsters and crabs, are favourite orna- 
mental dishes with those who deck their table merely to 
please the eye. Our apology for not giving such receipts 
will be f®und in 06s. to No. 322. 

OESTEi?^.*— (No. 181.) 

The commonf Colchester and Feversham oysters are 
brought to market on the 5th of August ; the Milton, or, as 
they are commonly called, the melting natives,^ do not come 
in till the beginning of October, continue in season till the 
12th of May, and approach the meridian of their perfection 
about Christmas. 

Some piscivorous gourmands think that oysters are not 
best when quite fresh from their beds, and that their flavour 
is too brackish and harsh, and is much ameliorated by giving 
them a feed. 

To feed6 oysters. — Cover them with clean water, with a 
pint of salt to about two gallons (nothing else, no oatmeal, 
flour, nor any other trumpery) ; this will cleanse them from 
the mud and sand, &c. of the bed ; after they have lain in it 
twelve hours, change it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve 
hours more they will be in prime order for the mouth, and 
remain so two or three days : at the time of high water you 
may see them open their shells, in expectation of receiving 
their usual food. This process of feeding oysters is only 
employed when a great many come up together. 

The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are 
packed at the beds, are better without being put in w^ater : 

* Oyster sauce, No. 278 ; preserved oysters, No. 280. 

t Those are called common oysters, wbicli are pickea up on the French coast, 
and laid in the Colchester beds. 

These are never so fine and fat as the natives, and seldom recover the shock their 
feelings receive from being transported from their native place : delicate little crea- 
tures, they are as exquisite in their own taste as they are to the taste of others ! 

t Oysters are thus called, that are born, as well as bred and fed, in this country, 
and are mostly spit in the Burnham and Mersey rivers : they do not come to their 
finest condition till they are near four years old. 

§ Will Rabisha, in his receipt to " broil oysters," (see his Cookery, page 144,) 
directs, that while they are undergoing this operation, they should be fed with white 
wine and grated bread. 

In Boyle's Works, 4to. 1T72, vol. il. p. 450, there is a very curious chapter on 
the eating of oysters. 



1 90 FISH. 

they are carefully and tightly packed, and must not be dis- 
turbed till wanted for table. These, in moderate weather, 
will keep good for a week or ten days. 

If an oyster opens his mouth in the barrel, he dies imme- 
diately. 

To preserve the lives of barrelled oysters, put a heavy 
v/eight on the wooden top of the barrel, which is to be placed 
on the surface of the oysters. This is to be effected by re- 
moving the first hoop ; the staves will then spread and stand 
erect, making a wide opening for the head of the barrel to 
fall down closely on the remaining fish, keeping them close 
together. 

Mem. — The oysters which are commonly sold as barrelled 
oysters, are merely the smallest natives, selected from the 
stock, and put into the tub when ordered ; and, instead of 
being of superior quality, are often veiy inferior. To im- 
mature animals there is the same objection as to unripe 
vegetables. 

Obs. — Common people are indifferent about the manner of 
opening oysters, and the time of eating them after they are 
opened ; nothing, however, is more important in the enlight- 
ened eyes of the experienced oyster-eater. 

Those w^ho wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its 
utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with 
its own gravy in the under shell ; if not eaten while abso* 
lutely alive, its flavour and spirit are lost. 

The true lover of an oyster will have some regard for the 
feelings of his little favourite, and will never abandon it to 
the mercy of a bungling operator, but will open it himself, 
and contrive to detach the fish from the shell so dexterously, 
that the oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from 
his lodging, till he feels the teeth of the piscivorous gour 
mand tickling him to death. 

N.B. Fish is less nutritious than flesh : as a proof, when 
the trainer of Newmarket wishes to waste a jockey, he is 
not allowed meat, nor even pudding, if fish can be had. The 
white kinds of fish, turbots, soles, whiting, cod, haddock, 
flounders, smelts, &c. are less nutritious than the oily, fat 
fish, such as eels, salmon, herrings, sprats, &c. : the latter, 
however, are more difficult to digest, and often disturb weak 
stomachs, so that they are obliged to call in the assistance 
of Cayenne, Cognac, &c. 

Shell-fish have long held a high rank in the catalogue of 
easily digestible and speedily restorative foods ; of these the 
oyster certainly deserves the best character, but we think it 
has acquired not a little more reputation for these qualities 



FISH. 191' 

than it deserves ; a well-dressed chop* or steak, see No. 94, 
will invigorate the heart in a much, higher ratio ; to recruit- 
the animal spirits, and support strength, there is nothing 
equal to animal food ; when kept till properly tender, none 
will give so little trouble to the digestive organs, and so 
much substantial excitement to the constitution. See note 
under No. 185*. 

See Dr. Wallis and IMr. Tyson's Papers on men's feeding 
on flesh, in Phil. Trans, vol. xxii. p. 769 to 774 ; and Por- 
phyry on Abstinence from Animal Food, translated by 
Thomas Taylor, 8vo. 1823. 

We could easily say as much in praise of mutton as Mr. 
Ritson has against it, in his " Essay on Abstinence from 
Animal Food, as a Moral Duty,^"* 8vo. London, 1802, p. 102. 
He says, " The Pagan priests were the first eaters of animal 
food ; it corrupted their taste, and so excited them to glut- 
tony, that when they had eaten the same thing repeatedly, 
their luxurious appetites called for variet5^ He who had 
devoured the sheep, longed to masticate the shepherd ! ! ! 

" Nature seems to have provided other animals for the food 
of man, from the astonishing increase of those which in- 
stinct points out to him as peculiarly desirable for that pur- 
pose. For instance ; so quick is the produce of pigeons, 
that, in the space of four years, 14,760 may come from a 
single pair ; and in the like period, 1,274,840 from a couple 
of rabbits, this is nothing to the millions of eggs in the milt 
of a codfish." 



Scolloped Oysters, — (No. 182.) A good v/ay to warm up any 

cold fish. 

Stew the oysters slowly in their own liquor for two or 
three minutes, take them out with a spoon, beard them, and 
skim the liquor, put a bit of butter into a stew-pan ; when it 
is melted, add as much fine bread-crumbs as will dry it up, 
then put to it the oyster liquor, and give it a boil up, put the 
oysters into scollop-shells that you have buttered, and 
strewed with bread-crumbs, then a layer of oysters, then of 
bread-crumbs, and then some more oysters ; moisten it with 
the oyster liquor, cover them with bread-crumbs, put about 

* " Animal food being composed of the most nutritious parts of the food on which 
the animal lived, and having already been digested by the proper organs of an 
animal, requires only solution and mixture ; whereas vegetable food must be con- 
verted into a substance of an animal nature, by the proper action of our own vis- 
cera, and conseqtiently requires more labour of the stomach, and other digestive 
organs."— BcRTON on the J^on-naturals, page 213. 



1 92 FISH 

half a dozen little bits of butter on the top of each, and 
brown them in a Dutch oven. 

Obs. Essence of anchovy, catchup, Cayenne, grated lemon- 
peel, mace, and other spices, &c. are added by those who 
prefer piquance to the genuine flavour of the oyster. 

Cold fish may be re-dressed the same way. 

N.B. Small scollop-shells, or saucers that hold about half 
a dozen oysters, are the most convenient. 

[Stewed Oysien.— (No. 182*.) 

Large oysters will do for stewing, and by some are pre- 
ferred ; but we love the plump, juicy natives. Stew a couple 
of dozen of these in their own liquor; when they are coming 
to a boil, skim well, take them up and beard them ; strain the 
liquor through a tamis-sieve, and lay the oysters on a dish. 
Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan ; when it is melted, 
put to it as much flour as will dry it up, the liquor of the 
oysters, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, and a 
little white pepper and salt ; to this some cooks add a little 
catchup, or finely-chopped parsley, grated lemon-peel, and 
juice ; let it boil up for a couple of minutes, till it is smooth, 
then take it off" the fire, put in the oysters, and let them get 
warm (they must not themselves be boiled, or they will be- 
come hard) ; line the bottom and sides of a hash-dish with 
bread-sippets, and pour your oysters and sauce into it. See 
Obs, to receipt No. 278. 

Oysters fried.*— (No. 183.) 

The largest and finest oysters are to be chosen for this 
pui-pose ; simmer them in their own liquor for a couple of 
minutes, take them out and lay them on a cloth to drain, 
beard them and then flour them, egg and bread-crumb 
them, put them into boiling fat, and fry them a delicate 
brown. 

Obs. An elegant garnish for made dishes, stewed rump- 
steaks, boiled or fried fish, &c. ; but they are too hard and 
dry to be eaten. 

* New-York and other places on the sea- coast of the United States, afford oysters* 
in great plenty and perfection, and the various methods of preparing them are weU 
known. A. 



BROTHS, GRAVinS, A>D SOUPS. 193 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS- 

' Beef Broth*— (No. 185.) 

Wash a leg or shin of beef very clean, crack the bone in 
two or three places (this you should desire the butcher to do 
for you), add thereto any trimmings you have of meat, game, 
or poultry {i. e. heads, necks, gizzards, feet, &c.), and cover 
them with cold water ; watch and stir it up well from the 
bottom, and the moment it begins to simmer, skim it care- 
fully ; your broth must be perfectly clear and limpid, on this 
depends the goodness of the soups, sauces, and gravies, of 
which it is the basis : then add some cold water to make the 
remaining scum rise, and skim it again ; when the scum is 
done rising, and the surface of the broth is quite clear, put in 
one moderate-sized carrot, a head of celery, two turnips, and 
two onions, it should not have any taste of sweet herbs, 
spice, or garlic, Slc. ; either of these flavours can easily be 
added immediately after, if desired, by Nos. 420, 421, 422, 
&c. cover it close, set it by the side of the fire, and let it 
simmer very gently (so as not to waste the broth) for four or 
iive hours, or more, according to the weight of the meat ; 
strain it through a sieve into a clean and dry stone pan, and 
set it in the coldest place you have. . 

! Obs. This is the foundation for all sorts of soups and 
sauce, brown or white. 

Stew no longer than the meat is thoroughly done to eat, 
and you will obtain excellent broth, without depriving the 
meat of its nutritious succulence : to boil it to rags, as is 
the common practice, will not enrich your broths, but make 
them thick and grouty. 

The meat,! when gently stewed for only four or five hours 

* In culinary technicals, is called first stock, or long broth ; in the French 
kitchen, ^'^le grand bouillon." 

t A dog was fed on the richest broth, yet could not be kept alive ; while another, 
which had only the meat boiled to a chip (and water), throve very well. This 
shows the folly of attempting to nourish men by concentrated soups, jellies, &c. — 
Sinclair, Code of Health., p. 356. 

If this experiment be accurate, vi'hat becomes of the theoretic visions of those 
who have written about nourishing broths, &c.? The best test of the restorative 
quality of food, is a small quantity of it satisfying hunger, the strength of the pulse 
after it. and the length of time which elapses before appetite returns again. Ac- 

R 



194 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

till it is just tender, remains abundantly sapid and nourisliing-* 
and will afford a relishing and wholesome meal for half a 
dozen people ; or make potted beef (No. 503) : or when you 
have strained off the broth, cover the meat again with water, 
and let it go on boiling for four hours longer, and make 
what some cooks call " second stock ;" it will produce some 
very good glaze^ or portable soup; see No. 252, and the 
Obs. thereon. 

Beef Gravy*— {No. 186.) 

Cover the bottom of a stew-pan that is well tinned and 
quite clean, with a slice of good ham, or lean bacon, four or 
five pounds of gravy beef cut into half-pound pieces, a car- 
rot, an onion with two cloves stuck in it, and a head of 
celery; put a pint of broth or water to it, cover it close, and 
set it over a moderate fire till the water is reduced to as little 
us will just save the ingredients from burning ; then turn it 
all about, and let it brown slightly and equally all over ; then 
put in three quarts of boiling water ;t when it boils up, skim 
it carefully, and wipe off with a clean cloth what sticks 
round the edge and inside of the stew-pan, that your gravy 
may be delicately clean and clear. Set it by the side of a 
fire, where it will stew gently (to keep it clear, and that it 
may not be reduced too mui-h) for about four hours : if it has 
not boiled too fast, there should be two quarts of good gravy; 
strain through a silk, or tamis-sieve ; take very particular 
care to skim it well, and set it in a cold place. 

Strong savoury Gravy (No. 188), alias " Brown 5aMce," alias 
" Grand Espagnol." 

Take a stew-pan that will hold four quarts, lay a slice or 
two of ham or bacon (about a quarter of an inch thick) at 
the bottom (undressed is the best), and two pounds of beef 
or veal, a carrot, a large onion with four cloves stuck in it, 
one head of celery, a bundle of parsley, lemon-thyme, and 
savoury, about as big round as your little finger, when tied 
close, a few leaves of sweet basil (one bay-leaf, and an es- 

rording to this rule, we give our verdict in favour of No. 19 or 24. See N.B. to 
No. 181. 

Ttiis subject is fully discussed in " The J3rt of Invigorating and Prolonging 
Life, by Diet, &;c. published by G. B. Whittaker, 13 Ave-Maria lane. 

* Called, in some cookery books, "second stock ;" in liie French kitchen, ^^jus 
dc boEuf.'^ 

t A great deal of care is to be taken to watch the time of putting in the water : 
if it is poured in too soon, the gravy will not have its true flavour and colour t and 
if it be let alone till the meat sticks to the pan, it will get a burnt taste. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 195 

clialot, if you like it), a piece of lemon-peel, and a dozen 
corns of allspice ;* pour on this half a pint of water, cover 
it close, and let it simmer gently on a slow fire for half an 
hour, in which time it will be almost dry ; watch it very care- 
fully, and let it catch a nice brown colour ; turn the meat, 
&c. let it brown on all sides ; add three pints of boiling 
water,! ^^^^ boil for a couple of hours. It is now rich 
gravy. To convert it into 

CulliSf or thickened Gravy. — (No. 189.) 

To a quart of gravy, put a table-spoonful of thickening 
(No. 257), or from one to two table-spoonfuls of flour, ac- 
cording to the thickness you wish the gravy to be, into a 
hasin, with a ladleful of the gravy ; stir it quick ; add the 
rest by degrees, till it is all well mixed ; then pour it back 
into a stew-pan, and leave it by the side of the fire to sim- 
mer for half an hour longer, that the thickening may tho- 
roughly incoi'porate with the gravy, the stew-pan being only 
half covered, stirring it every now and then ; a sort of scum 
will gather on the top, which it is best not to take oif till you 
are ready to strain it through a tamis. J 

Take care it is neither of too pale nor too dark a colour ; 
if it is not thick enough, let it stew longer, till it is reduced 
to the desired thickness ; or add a bit of glaze, or portable 
soup to it, see No. 252 : if it is too thick, you can easily thin 
it with a spoonful or two of warm broth, or water. When 
your sauce is done, stir it in the basin you put it into once or 
twice, while it is cooling. 

Veal Broth.— [No. 191.) 

A knuckle of veal is best ; manage it as directed in the 
receipt for beef broth (No. 185*), only take care not to let 
it catch any colour, as this and the following and richer pre- 
paration of veal, are chiefly used for white soups, sauces, &c. 

To make white sauce, see No. 364*. 

Feal Gravy. ^{No. 192.) 
About three pounds of the nut of the leg of veal, cut into 

* Truffles, morells, and mushrooms, catchups and wines, &c. are added by those 
who are for the extreme of knut gout. 

t The general rule is to put in about a pint of water to a pound of meat, if it only 
simmers very gently. 

t A tamis is a worsted cloth, sold at the oil shops, made on purpose for straining 
sauces : the best way for using it is for two people to twist it contrary ways. This 
is a better way of straining sauce than through a sieve, and retines it much more 
comiiittcly. 



1 96 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUl^. 

half-pound slices, with a quarter of a pound of ham in smali 
dice ; proceed as directed for the beef gravy (No. 186), but 
watch the time of putting in the water ; if this is poured in 
too soon, the gravy will not have its true flavour, if it be let 
alone till the meat sticks too much to the pan, it will catch 
too brown a colour. 

Knuckle of Veal, or Shin or Leg of Beef, Soup, — (No. 193.) ] 

A knuckle of veal of six pounds weight will make a large 
tureen of excellent soup, and is thus easily prepared : cut 
half a pound of bacon into slices about half an inch thick, 
lay it at the bottom of a soup-kettle, or deep stew-pan, and 
on this place the knuckle of veal, having first chopped the 
bone in two or three places ; furnish it with two cari'ots, two 
turnips, a head of celery, two large onions, with two or three 
cloves stuck in one of them, a dozen corns of black, and the 
same of Jamaica pepper, and a good bundle of lemon-thyme, 
Minter savoury, and parsley. Just cover the meat with cold 
water, and set it over a quick fire till it boils ; having skimmed 
it well, remove your soup-kettle to the side of the fire ; let it 
stew veiy gently till it is quite tender, i. e. about four hours ; 
then take out the bacon and veal, strain the soup, and set it 
by in a cool place till you want it, when you must take oflf 
the fat from the surface of your liquor, and decant it (keep- 
ing back the settlings at the bottom) into a clean pan. 

If you like a thickened soup, put three table-spoonfuls of 
the fat you have taken off the soup into a small stew-pan, 
and mix it with four table-spoonfuls of flour, pour a ladleful 
of soup to it, and mix it with the rest by degrees, and boil it 
up till it is smooth. 

Cut the meat and gristle of the knuckle and the bacon 
into mouthfuls, and put them into the soup, and let them 
get warm. 

Obs. You may make this more savouiy by adding catchup 
(No. 439), &c. Shin of beef may be dressed in the same 
way ; see Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice (No. 523). 

Muttm BroiA.— (No. 194.) 

Take two pounds of scrag of mutton ; to take the blood 
out, put it into a stew-pan, and cover it with cold water ; 
when the water becomes milk-warm, pour it off; then put it 
in four or five pints of water, with a tea-spoonful of salt, a 
table-spoonful of best grits, and an onion; set it on a slow 
fire, and when you have taken all the scum off, put in two or 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, A?fD SOUPS. 197 

three turnips ; let it simmer very slowly for two hours, and 
strain it through a clean sieve. 

This usual method of making mutton broth with the 
scrag, is by no means the most economical method of ob- 
taining it ; for which see Nos. 490 and 564. 

Obs. You may thicken broth by boiling with it a little oat- 
meal, rice, Scotch or pearl barley ; when you make it for a 
sick person, read the 06s. on Broths, &c. in the last page of 
tlie 7th chapter of the Rudiments of Cookery, and No. 564. 

Alock Mutton Broth, without Meat, in Jive minutes. — (No. 195.) 

Boil a few leaves of parsley with two tea-spoonfuls of 
musliroom catchup, in three-quarters of a pint of very thin 
gruel* (No. 572). Season with a little salt. 

06s. This is improved by a few drops of eschalot wine 
(No. 402), and the same of essence of sweet herbs (No. 419). 
See also Portable Soup (No. 252). 

The Q^ueen's Morning ''Bouillon de 5an^^,"— (No. 196.) 

Sir Kenelm Digby, in his ''Closet of Cookery,^ p. 149, 
London, 1669, informs us, was made with " a brawny hen, or 
yomig cock, a handful of parsley, one sprig of thyme, three 
of spearmint, a little balm, half a great onion, a little pepper 
and salt, and a clove, with as much water as will cover 
them ; and this boiled to less than a pint for one good por- 
ringerful." 

Ox'heel Jelly.^{No, 198.) 

Slit them in two, and take away the fat between the claws. 
The proportion of water to each heel is about a quart : let it 
simmer gently for eight horn's (keeping it clean skimmed) ; 
it will make a pint and a half of strong jelly, which is fre- 
quently used to make calves' feet jelly (No. 481), or to add to 
mock turtle and other soups. See No. 240*. This jelly 
evaporated, as directed in No. 252, will give about three 
ounces and a half of strong glaze. An unboiled heel costs 
one shilling and threepence: so this glaze, wliich is very 
inferior in flavour to No. 252, is quite as expensive as that is. 

N.B. To dress the heels, see No. 18. 

06s. Get a heel that has only been scalded, not one of 

* By this method, it is said, an ingenious cook long deceived a large family, who 
'.vcre all fond of weak mutton broth. Mushroom gravy, or catchup (No. 439), 
;ipproaches the nature and flavour of meat gravy, more than any vegetable juice, 
and is the best substitute for it in maigre soups and e.ttenipore sauces, that culinary 
chcmistrv has vet produced. 

B9 



198 BROTHS, GRAVIES AND SOUPS. 

those usually sold at the tripe-shops, Avhich have been boiled 
till almost all the gelatine is extracted. 

Clear Gravy Soups. — (No. 200.) 

Cut half a pound of ham into slices, and lay them at the 
bottom of a large stew-pan or stock-pot, with two or three 

f)ounds of lean beef, and as much veal ; break the bones, and 
ay th: in on the meat ; take off the outer skin of tM'o large 
onions and two turnips ; wash, clean, and cut into pieces a 
couple of large carrots, and two heads of celery ; and put in 
three cloves and a large blade of mace. Cover the stew-pan 
close, and set it over a smart fire. When the meat begins to 
stick to the bottom of the stew-pan, turn it ; and when there 
is a nice brown glaze at the bottom of the stew-pan, cover 
the m'^at with hot water : watch it, and when it is coming to 
boil put in half a pint of cold water ; take off the scum ; then 
put in half a pint more cold water, and skim it again, and 
contiiiue to do so till no more scum rises. Now set it on one 
side of the fire to boil gently for about four hours ; strain it 
through a clean tamis or napkin (do not squeeze it, or the 
soup will be thick) into a clean stone pan ; let it remain till 
it is cold, and then remove all the fat. When you decant it, 
be careful not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the pan. 

The broth should be of a fine amber colour, and as clear as 
rock water. If it is not quite so bright as you wish it, put it 
into a stew-pan; break two whites and shells of eggs into a 
basin; beat them well together; put them into the soup: set 
it on a quick fire, and stir it with a whisk till it boils ; then 
set it on one side of the fire to settle for ten minutes ; run it 
through a fine napkin into a basin, and it is ready. 

However, if your broth is carefully skimmed, &c. accord- 
ing to the directions above given, it will be clear enough 
without clarifying ; which process impairs the flavour of it in 
a higher proportion than it improves its appearance. 

Obs. — This is the basis of almost all gravy soups, which 
are called by the name of the vegetables that are put 
into them. 

Carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few leaves of cher- 
vil, make -what is called spring soup, or soup sante ; to 
this a pint of green pease, or asparagus pease, or Frencli 
beans cut into pieces, or a cabbage lettuce, are an im- 
provement. 

With rice or Scotch barley, with macaroni or vermicelJi, 
or celery cut into lengths, it will be the soup usually called 
hy those names. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 199 

Or turnips scooped round, or young onions, will give you 
a clear turnip or onion soup ; and all these vegetables mixed 
together, soup gressi. 

The gravy for all these soups may be produced extempore 
with No. 252. 

The roots and vegetables you use must be boiled first, or 
they will impregnate the soup with too strong a flavour. 

The seasoning for all these soups is the same, viz. salt 
and a veiy little Cayenne pepper. 

N.B. To make excellent vegetable gravy soup for i^d. a 
quart, see No. 224. 

Scotch Barley Broth ; — a good and substantial dinner for 
fivepence per head. — (No. 204.} 

Wash three-quarters of a pound of Scotch barley in a 
little cold water ; put it in a soup-pot with a shin or leg of 
beef, of about ten pounds weight, sawed mto four pieces 
(tell the butcher to do this for you) ; cover it well with cold 
water ; set it on the fire : when it boils skim it very clean, 
and put in two onions of about three ounces weight each ; 
set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently about two 
hours ; then skim all the fat clean off", and put in two heads 
of celery, and a large turnip cut into small squares ; season 
it with salt, and let it boil an hour and a half longer, and it 
is ready: take out the meat (carefully with a slice, and 
cover it up, and set it by the fire to keep warm), and skim 
the broth well before you put it in the tureen. 

s. d. 

Shin of beef of 101 bs 2 

^ pound of barley 4A 

2 onions, of about 3 oz. weight each... 0.1 

Celery l" 

Large turnip I 

2 7 

Thus you get four quarts of good soup at 8</. per quart, 
besides another quart to make sauce for the meat, in the 
following manner : 

Put a quart of the soup into a basin ; put about an 
ounce of flour into a stew-pan, and pour the broth to it 
by degrees, stirring it well together ; set it on the fire, and 
stir it till it boils ; then (some put in a glass of port 
wine, or mushroom catchup, No. 439) let it boil up, and it is 
ready. 

Put the meat in a ragout dish, and strain the sauce through 



200 BUOTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

a sieve over the meat ; you may put to it some capers, or 
minced gherkins or walnuts, &c. 

If the beef has been stewed with proper care in a very 
gentle manner, and be taken up at " the critical moment when 
it is just tender," you will obtain an excellent and savoury 
meal for eight people for fivepence ; 2*. e. for only the cost of 
the glass of port wine. 

If you use veal, cover the meat with No. 364 — 2. 

Gbs. — This is a most frugal, agreeable, and nutritive 
meal ; it will neither lighten the purse, nor lie heavy on the 
stomach, and will furnish a plentiful and pleasant soup and 
meat for eight persons. So you may give a good dinner for 
5d. per head ! ! ! See also Nos. 229 and 239. 

N.B. If you will draw your purse-strings a little wider, 
and allow Id. per mouth more, prepare a pint of young 
onions as directed in No. 296, and garnish the dish with 
them, or some carrots or turnips cut into squares ; and for 
6d. per head you will have as good a ragout as " le Cuisinier 
Imperial de France''^ can give you for as many shillings. 
Read Obs. to No. 493. 

Yz u may vary the flavour by adding a little curry powder 
(No. 455), ragout (No. 457, &c.), or any of the store sauces 
and flavouring essences between Nos. 396 and 463 ; you may 
garnish the dish with split pickled mangoes, walnuts, gher- 
kins, onions, &c. See Wow wow Sauce, No. 328. 

If it is made the evening before the soup is wanted, 
and suffered to stand till it is cold, much fat* may be 
removed from the surface of the soup, which is, when 
clarified (No. 83), useful for all the purposes that drippings 
are applied to. 

Scotch Soups. — (No. 205.) 

The three following receipts are the contribution of a 
friend at Edinburgh. 

Winter Hotch-potch. 

Take the best end of a neck or loin of mutton ; cut it into 
neat chops ; cut four carrots, and as many turnips into 
slices ; put on four quarts of water, with half the carrots 
and turnips, and a whole one of each, Avith a pound of dried 
green pease, which must be put to soak the night before ; 
let it boil two hours, then take out the whole carrot and tur- 

* See '■^ UArt de Cuisinier,'" par A. Beauvillier, Paris. 1814, p. G8. "I have 
learned by experience, that of all the fats that are used for frying, the pot top which 
is taken from the surface of the broth ana stock-pot is by far the b»»i.' 



BBOTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 20 1 

nip ; bruise and return them ; put in the meat, and the rest 
of the carrot and turnip, some pepper and salt, and boil 
slowly three-quarters of an hour; a short time before serving", 
add an onion cut small and a head of celery. ' 

Cocky-leeky Soup. 

Take a scrag of mutton, or shank of veal, three quarts of 
water (or liquor in which meat has been boiled), and a g^ood- 
sized fowl, with two or three leeks cut in pieces about an 
inch long, pepper and salt ; boil slowly about an hour : then 
put in as many more leeks, and give it three-quarters of an 
hour longer: this is very good, made of good beef-stock, 
and leeks put in at twice. 

Lamb Stove, or Lamb Stew. 

Take a lamb's head and lights ; open the jaws of the head, 
and wash them thoroughly ; put them in a pot with some 
beef-stock, made with three quarts of water, and two pounds 
of shin of beef, strained ; boil very slowly for an hour; wash 
and string two or three good handfuls of spinach (or 
spinage) ; put it in twenty minutes before serving ; add a 
little parsley, and one or two onions, a short time before it 
comes off the fire ; season with pepper and salt, and serve 
all together in a tureen. 

Scotch Brose.—{JSio. 205*.) 

" This favourite Scotch dish is generally made with the 
liquor meat has been boiled in. 

" Put half a pint of oatmeal into a porringer with a little 
salt, if there be not enough in the broth, of which add as 
much as will mix it to the consistence of hasty-pudding, or 
a little thicker ; lastly, take a little of the fat that swims on 
the broth, and put it on the crowdie, and eat it in the same 
way as hasty-pudding." 

06s. — This Scotsman's dish is easily prepared at very little 
expense, and is pleasant-tasted and nutritious. To dress a 
haggies, see No. 488*, and Minced CoUops, following it. 

N.B. For various methods of making and flavouring oat- 
meal gruel, see No. 572. 

Carrot Soup.— (No. 212.) 

Scrape and wash half a dozen large carrots ; peel off the 
red outside (which is the only part used for this soup) ; put 
it into a gallon stew-pan, with one head of celery, and atx 



202 BROTHS, GBAVI£S, AND SOUPS. 

onion, cut into thin pieces ; take two quarts of beef, veal, or 
mutton broth, or if you have any cold roast-beef bones (or 
liquor, in which mutton or beef has been boiled), you may 
make very good broth for this soup : when you have put the 
broth to the roots, cover the stew-pan close, and set it on a 
slow stove for two hours and a half, when the carrots will 
be soft enoug-h (some cooks put in a tea-cupful of bread- 
crumbs) ; boil for two or three minutes ; rub it through a 
tamis, or hair-sieve, with a wooden spoon, and add as much 
broth as will make it a proper thickness, i. e. almost as thick 
as pease soup : put it into a clean stew-pan ; make it hot ; 
season it with a little salt, and send it up with some toasted 
bread, cut into pieces half an inch square. Some put it into 
the soup ; but the best way is to send it up on a plate, as a 
side-dish. 

06s. This is neither expensive nor troublesome to pre- 
pare. In the kitchens of some opulent epicures, to make this 
soup make a little stronger impression on the gustatory 
organs of " grands gourmands," the celery and onions are 
sliced, and fried in butter of a light brown, the soup is poured 
into the stew-pan to them, and all is boiled up together. But 
this must be done very carefully with butter, or very nicely 
clarified fat; and the "grand cuisinier" adds spices, &c, 
" ad libitum" 

Turnip and Parsnip Soups, — (No. 213.) 
Are made in the same manner as the carrot soup (No. 212.) 

Celery Sowp.— (No. 214.) 

Split half a dozen heads of celery into slips about two 
inches long ; wash them well ; lay them on a hair-sieve to 
drain, and put them into three quarts of No. 200 in a gallon 
soup-pot ; set it by the side of the fire to stew very gently 
till the celery is tender (this will take about an hour). If any 
scum rises, take it off; season with a little salt. 

06s. When celery cannot be procured, half a drachm of 
the seed, pounded fine, which may be considered as the 
essence of celery (costs only one-third of a farthing, and can 
be had at any season), put in a quarter of an hour before the 
soup is done, and a little sugar, will give as much flavour to 
half a gallon of soup as two heads of celery weighing seven 
ounces, and costing 2^^. ; or add a little essence of celery, 
No. 409. 



BROTHS, GBAVYS, AND SOUPS. 203 

Green Pease Soup. — (No. 216.) 

A peclt of pease will make you a good tureen of soup. la 
shelling them, put the old ones in one basin, and the young 
ones in another, and keep out a pint of them, and boil them 
separately to put into your soup when it is finished : put a 
large saucepan on the fire half full of water ; when it boils, 
put the pease in, with a handful of salt ; let them boil till 
they are done enough, i. e. from twenty to thirty minutes, 
according to their age and size ; then drain them in a colan- 
der, and put them into a clean gallon stew-pan, and three 
quarts of plain veal or mutton broth (drawn from meat with- 
out any spices or herbs, &c. which would overpower the 
flavour of the soup) ; cover the stew-pan close, and set it 
over a slow fire to stew gently for an hour ; add a tea-cupful 
of bread-crumbs, and then rub it through a tamis into another, 
stew-pan ; stir it with a wooden spoon, and if it is too thick, 
add a little more broth : have ready boiled as for eating, a 
pint of young pease, and put them into the soup ; season with 
a little salt and sugar. 

N.B. Some cooks, while this soup is going on, slice a 
couple of cucumbers (as you would for eating) ; take out the 
seeds ; lay them on a cloth to drain, and then flour them, and 
fry them a light brown in a little butter ; put them into the 
soup the last thing before it goes to table. 

Ohs. If the soup is not green enough, pound a handful of 
pea-hulls or spinage, and squeeze the juice through a cloth 
into the soup : some leaves of mint may be added, if approved. 

Plain green Pease Soup without Meat. — (No. 217.) 

Take a quart of green pease (keep out half a pint of the 
youngest ; boil them separately, and put them in the soup 
when it is finished) ; put them on in boiling water ; boil them 
tender, and then pour off the water, and set it by to make the 
soup with : put the pease into a mortar, and pound them to a 
mash ; then put them into tv/o quarts of the water you boiled 
the pease in ; stir all well together ; let it boil up for about 
five minutes, and then rub it through a hair-sieve or tamis. 
If the pease are good, it will be as thick and fine a vegetable 
soup as need be sent to table. 

Pease Soup.^{No. 218.) 
The common way of making pease soup* is — to a quart 

* To maie pease pottage, double the quantity. Those who often make pease 
soup should have a mill, and grind the pease just before they dress thea)i a leasi 
quantity will sufnce, and the soup will be much sijoner made. 



204 BROTHS, GRAVIES, A^D SOUPS. 

of split pease put three quarts of cold soft water, not more, 
(or It will be what " Jack Ros-bif " calls " soup maigre,") 
notwithstanding Mother Glasse orders a gallon (and her 
ladyship's directions have been copied by almost everj' 
cookery-book maker who has strung receipts together since), 
with half a pound of bacon (not very fat), or roast-beef bones, 
or four anchovies : or, instead of the water, three quarts of 
the liquor in which beef, mutton, pork, or poultry has been 
boiled, tasting it first, to make sure it is not too salt.* 

Wash two heads of celery ;t cut it, and put it in, with two 
onions peeled, and a sprig of savoury, or sweet marjoram, or 
lemon-th3niie ; set it on the trivet, and let it simmer very 
gently over a slow fire, stirring it every quarter of an hour 
(to keep the pease from sticking to, and burning at, the bot- 
tom of the soup-pot) till the pease are tender, which will be in 
about three hours. Some cooks now slice a head of celer}% 
and half an ounce of onions, and fry them in a little butter, 
and put them into the soup till they are lightly browned ; 
then work the whole through a coarse hair-sieve, and then 
through a fine sieve, or (what is better) through a tamis, with 
the back of a wooden spoon : put it into a clean stew-pan, 
with half a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper ;| let it boil 
again for ten minutes, and if any fat arises, skim it off. 

Send up on a plate, toasted bread cut into little pieces a 
quarter of an inch square, or cut a slice of bread (that has 
been baked two days) into dice, not more than half an inch 
square ; put half a pound of perfectly clean drippings or lard 
into an iron frying-pan ; when it is hot, fry the bread ; take 
care and turn it about with a slice, or by shaking of the pan 
as it is frying, that it may be on each side of a delicate light 
brown, (No. 319 ;) take it up with a fish-slice, and lay it on a 
sheet of paper to drain the fat : be careful that this is done 
nicely : send these up in one side-dish, and dried and pow- 
dered mint or savoury, or sweet marjoram, &c. in another. 

Those who are for a double relish, and are true lovers of 
" haut gout,'''' may have some bacon cui; into small squares 
like the bread, and fried till it is crisp, or some little lumps 
of boiled pickled pork ; or put cucumber fried into this soup, 
as you have directions in No. 216. 

* If the liquor is very salt, the pease will never boil tender. Therefore, when 
you make pease soup with the liquor in which salted pork or beef has been boiled, 
tie up the pease in a clo'h, and boil them first for an hour in soft water. 

t Half a drachm of celery-seed, pounded fine, and put into the soup a quarter of 
an hour before it is finislied, will flavour three quarts. 

t Some put in dried mint rubbed to fine powder ; but as every body does not like 
mint, it is best to send it up on a plate. See pease powder, No. 458, essence of 
celery, No. 409, and Nos. 457 and 459. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, A?fD SOUPS. 205 

Ohs. The most economical method of making- pease soup, 
is to save the bones of a joint of roast beef, and put them into 
the liquor in which mutton, or beef, or pork, or poultry, has 
been boiled, and proceed as in the above receipt. A hock, or 
shank-bone of ham, a ham-bone, the root of a tonpie, or a 
red or pickled herring, are favourite additions with some 
cooks ; others send up rice or vermicelli with pease soup.* 

N.B. To make pease soup extempore, see No. 555. 

If you wish to make soup the same day you boil meat or 
poultry, prepare the pease the same as for pease pudding- 
(No. 555), to which you may add an onion and a head of 
celery, when you rub the pease through the sieve ; instead 
of putting eggs and butter, add some of the liquor from the 
pot to make it a proper thickness ; put it on to boil for five 
minutes, and it is ready. 

Obs. This latter is by far the easiest and the best way of 
making pease soup. 

Pease soup may be made savoury and agreeable to the 
palate, without any meat, by incorporating two ounces of 
fresh and nicely-clarified beef, mutton, or pork drippings (see 
No. 83), with two ounces of oatmeal, and mixing this well 
into the gallon of soup, made as above directed : see also 
No. 229. 

Pease Soup and pickled Pork. — (No. 220.) 

A couple of pounds of the belly part of pickled pork will 
make very good broth for pease soup, if the pork be not too 
salt ; if it has been in salt more than two days, it must be laid 
in water the night before it is used. 

Put on the ingredients mentioned in No. 218, in three 
quarts of water ; boil gently for two hours, then put in the 
pork, and boil very gently till it is done enough to eat ; this 
will take about an hour and a half, or two hours longer, ac- 
cording to its thickness ; when done, wash the pork clean in 
liot water, send it up in a dish, or cut it into mouthfuls, and 
put it into the soup in the tureen, with the accompaniments 
ordered in No. 218. 

* My witty predecessor, Dr. Hunter (see Culina, page 97), says, " If a proper 
quantity of curry-powder (No. 455) be added to pease soup, a good soup might be 
made, under the title of currij pease soup. Heliogabalus offered rewards for the 
discovery of a new dish, and the British Parliament have given notoriety to inven- 
tions of much less importance than 'curry pease soup.' '' 

N.B. Celery, or carrots, or turnips, shredded, or cut in squares (or Scotch barley, 
—in the latter case the soup must be rather thinner), or cut into bits about an inch 
long, and boiled separately, and thrown into the tureen when the soup is going to 
table, will give another agreeable variety, and may be called celery and pease soup 
Read Ohs. to No. 214 

s 



206 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

Obs. The meat being boiled no longer than to be donf^ 
enough to be eaten, you get excellent soup, without any ex- 
])ense of meat destroyed. 

" In Canada, the inhabitants live three-fourths of the year 
on pease soup, prepared with salt pork, which is boiled till 
the fat is entirely dissolved among the soup, giving it aricli 
flavour." — The Hon. J. Cochrane's Seaman's Guides 8vo, 
1797, p. 31. 

Plain Pease Sowp.— (No. 221.) 

To a quart of split pease, and two heads of celery, (and 
most cooks would put a large onion,) put three quarts of 
broth or soft water ; let them simmer gently on a trivet over 
a slow fire for three hours, stirring up every quarter of an 
iiour to prevent the pease burning at the bottom of the soup- 
kettle (if the water boils away, and the soup gets too thick, 
add some boiling water to it) ; when they are well softened, 
work them through a coarse sieve, and then through a fine 
sieve or a tamis ; wash out your stew-pan, and then return 
the soup into it, and give it a boil up ; take off any scum that 
comes up, and it is ready. Prepare fried bread, and dried 
mint, as directed in No. 218, and send them up with it on two 
side dishes. 

Ohs. This is an excellent family soup, produced with very 
little trouble or expense. 

Most of the receipts for pease soup are crowded with in- 
gredients which entirely overpower the flavour of the pease-. 
See No. 555. 

Asparagus Soup. — (No. 222.) 

This is made with the points of asparagus, in the same 
manner as the green pease soup (No. 216 or 17) is with 
pease : let half the asparagus be rubbed through a sieve, and 
the other cut in pieces about an inch long, and boiled till 
done enough, and sent up in the soup : to make two quarts, 
there must be a pint of heads to thicken it, and half a pint 
cut in ; take care to preserve these green and a little crisp. 
This soup is sometimes made by adding the asparagus heads 
to common pease soup. 

Obs. Some cooks fry half an ounce of onion in a little 
butter, and rub it through a sieve, and add it with the other 
ingredients ; the haul gout of the onion will entirely over- 
come the delicate flavour of the asparagus, and we protest 
against all such combinations. 



\ 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 207 

Maigrej or Vegetable Gravy Soup* — (No. 224.) 

Put into a gallon stew-pan three ounces of butter ; set it 
over a slow fire ; while it is melting, slice four ounces of 
onion ; cut in small pieces one turnip, one can*ot, and a head 
of celery ; put them in the stewpan, cover it close, let it fry 
till they are lightly browned ; this will take about twenty- 
five minutes : have ready, in a sauce-pan, a pint of pease, 
with four quarts of water ; when the roots in the stew-pan 
are quite brown, and the pease come to a boil, put the pease 
and water to them ; put it on the fire ; when it boils, skim it 
clean, and put in a crust of bread about as big as the top of 
a twopenny loaf, twenty-four berries of allspice, the same 
of black pepper, and two blades of mace ; cover it close, 
let it simmer gently for one hour and a half; then set it from 
the fire for ten minutes ; then pour it off very gently (so as 
not to disturb the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan) 
into a large basin ; let it stand (about two hours) till it is quite 
clear : while this is doing, shred one large turnip, the red part 
of a large carrot, three ounces of onion minced, and one 
large head of celery cut into small bits ; put the turnips and 
carrots on the fire in cold water, let them boil five minutes, 
then drain them on a sieve, then pour off the soup clear into 
a stew-pan, put in the roots, put the soup on the fire, let it 
simmer gently till the herbs are tender (from thirty to forty 
minutes), season it with salt and a little Cayenne, and it is 
ready. 

You may add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup 
(No. 439). 

Obs. You will have three quarts of soup, as well coloured, 
and almost as well flavoured, as if made with gravy meat. 

N.B. To make this it requires nearly five hours. To fry 
the herbs requires twenty-five minutes ; to boil all together, 
one hour and a half ; to settle, at the least, two hours ; when 
clear, and put on the fire again, half an hour more, 

FISH SOUPS.- {No. 225.) 

Eel Soup. 

To make a tureenful, take a couple of middling-sized 
unions, cut them in half, and cross your knife over them two 
or three times ; put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan 

* The French call this '■'•soup maigre ;'^ the English acceptation of which is 
^•poor and watery" and does not at all accord with tlie French, which is, soups, &c. 
made without meat : thus, turtle, the richest dish that comes to an English table 
[iC dressed without moat gravy), is a maia'ie dish. 



208 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

when it is melted, put in the onions, stir them about till they 
are lightly browned ; cut into pieces three pounds of un> 
skinned eels, put them into your stew-pan, and shake them 
over the fire for five minutes ; then add three quarts of boil- 
ing water, and when they come to a boil, take the scum off 
very clean; then put in a quarter of an ounce of the green 
leaves (not dried) of winter savoury, the same of lemon 
thyme, and twice the quantity of parsley, two drachms of 
allspice, the same of black pepper ; cover it close, and let it 
boil gently for two hours; then strain it off, and skim it 
very clean. To thicken it, put three ounces of butter into 
a clean stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as 
will make it of a stiff paste, then add the liquor by degrees ; 
let it simmer for ten minutes, and pass it through a sieve ; 
then put your soup on in a clean stew-pan, and have ready 
some little square pieces of fish fried of a nice light brown, 
either eels, soles, plaice, or skate will do ; the fried fish 
should be added about ten minutes before the soup is served 
up. Forcemeat balls (Nos. 375, 378, &c.) are sometimes 
added. 

Obs. Excellent fish soups may be made with a cod's 
skull, or skate, or flounders, &c. boiled in no more water 
than will just cover them, and the liquor thickened with 
oatmeal, &c. 

Cheap Soups.— {No. 229.) 

Among the variety of schemes that have been suggested 
for " bettering the condition of the poor," a more useful or 
extensive charity cannot be devised, than that of instructing 
them in economical cookery : it is one of the most important 
objects to which the attention of any real well-wisher to the 
public interest can possibly be directed. 

The best and cheapest method of making a nourishing 
soup, is least known to those who have most need of it ; it 
Avill enable those who have small incomes and large families 
to make the most of the little they possess, without pinching 
their children of that wholesome nourishment which is ne- 
cessary for the purpose of rearing them up to maturity in 
health and strength. 

The labouring classes seldom purchase what are called 
the coarser pieces of meat, because they do not know how 
to dress them, but lay out their money in pieces for roast- 
ing, &c., of which the bones, &c. enhance the price of the 
actual meat to nearly a shilling per pound, and the dimi- 
nution of weight by roasting amounts to 32 per cent. This, 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 209 

for the sake of saving time, trouble, and fire, is generally 
sent to an oven to be baked ; the nourishing- parts are evapo- 
rated and dried up, its weight is diminished nearly one-third, 
and all that a poor man can afford to purchase with his 
week's earnings, perhaps does not half satisfy the appetites 
of himself and family for a couple of days. 

If a hard-working man cannot get a comfortable meal at 
home, he soon finds his way to the public-house, the poor 
wife contents herself with tea and bread and butter, and the 
children are half starved. 

Dr. Kitchiner's receipt to make a cheap, nutritive, and 
palatable soup, fully adequate to satisfy appetite and -support 
strength, will open a new source to those benevolent house- 
keepers who are disposed to relieve the poor ; will show the 
industrious classes how much they have it in their power to 
assist themselves ; and rescue them from being dependent on 
the precarious bounty of others, by teaching them how they 
may obtain an abundant, salubrious, and agreeable aliment 
for themselves and families, for one penny per quart. See 
page 210. 

For various economical soups, see Nos. 204, 239, 240, 
224, 221, and Obs. to Nos. 244 and 252, and Nos. 493 and 
502. 

Obs. Dripping intended for soup should be taken out of 
the pan almost as soon as it has dropped from the meat ; if 
it is not quite clean, clarify it. See receipt, No. 83. 

Dripping thus prepared is a very different thing from that 
which has remained in the dripping-pan all the time the 
meat has been roasting, and perhaps live coals have dropped 
into it.* 

Distributing soup does not answer half so well as teaching 
people how to make it, and improve their comfort at home : 
the time lost in waiting at the soup-house is seldom less than 
three hours ; in which time, by any industrious occupation. 

* We copied the following receipt from The Morning Post, Jan. 1820. 
Winter Soup. — (No. 227.) 



SlOlbs of beef, fore-quarters, 
901bs. of legs of beef, 
3 bushels of best split pease, 
1 bushel of flour, 



12 bundles of teeks, 
6 bundles of celery, 
121bs. of salt, 
lilbs. of black pepper. 

These good ingredients will make 1000 quarts of nourishing and agreeable soup, 
at an expense (establishment avoided) of little less than 2AJ. per quart. 

Of this, 2600 quarts a day have been delivered during the late inclement weather, 
and the cessation of ordinary enipl<.yment, at two stations in the parish of Ber 
Mondsey, at one penny per qiiart, by which 600 families have been daily assisted, 
and it thankfully received. Such a nouri.-ihment and comfort could not have been 
provided by tiiemselves separately for fourp<'ncc a quart, if ct all, and reckoning 
iiitle for their fire, nothing fur their time. 

S2 



210 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

Iiowever poorly paid, they could earn more money tlian the 
quart of soup is worth. 

Dr. Kitchiner's Receipt to make a Gallon of Barley Broth for 
a Groat. See also No. 204. 

Put four ounces of Scotch barley (previously washed in 
cold w^ater), and four ounces of sliced onions, into five quarts 
of water ; boil gently for one hour, and pour it into a pan ; 
then put into the saucepan from one to two ounces of tdean 
beef or mutton drippings, or melted suet, (to clarify these, 
see No. 83) or two or three ounces of fat bacon minced; 
when melted, stir into it four ounces of oatmeal ; rub these 
together till you make a paste (if this be properly managed, 
the whole of the fat will combine with the barley broth, and 
not a particle appear on the surface to offend the most 
delicate stomach) ; now add the barley broth, at first a 
spoonful at a time, then the rest by degrees, stirring it well 
together till it boils. To season it, put a drachm of finely- 
pounded celery, oi cress-seed, or half a drachm of each, and 
u quarter of a drachm of finely-pounded Cayenne (No. 404), 
or a drachm and a half of ground black pepper, or allspice, 
into a tea-cup, and mix it up with a little of tiie soup, and 
then pour it into the rest ; stir it thoroughly together ; let it 
simmer gently a quarter of an hour longer, season it with 
salt, an ■ it is ready. 

The flavour may be varied by doubling the portion of 
onions, or adding a clove of garlic or eschalot, and leaving 
out the celery-seed (No. 572), or put in shredded roots 
as in No. 224; or, instead of oatmeal, thicken it with 
ground rice, or pease, &c., and make it savoury with fried 
onions. 

This preparation, excellent as it is, would, without variety, 
soon become less agreeable. 

Nothing so completely disarms poverty of its sting, as 
the means of rendering a scanty pittance capable of yielding 
a comfortable variety. 

Change of flavour is absolutely necessary, not merely as 
a matter of pleasure and comfort, but of health ; toujours 
perdrix is a true proverb. 

This soup will be much improved, if, instead of water, it 
be made with the liquor meat has been boiled in ; at tripe, 
coAv-heel, and cook-shops, this may be had for little or 
nothing. 

This soup has the advantage of being very soon and 
easilv made, with no more fuel than is necessary to warm 



BROTHS, GI?AVIES, AIMD SOUPS. 211 

a room ; those who have not tasted it, cannot imagine what 
a savomy and satisfying meal is produced by the combina- 
tion of these cheap and homely ingredients. 

If the generally-received opinion be true, that animal and 
vegetable foods afford nourishment in proportion to the 
quantity of oil, jelly, and mucilage, that can be extracted 
from them, this soup has strong claims to the attention of 
rational economists. 

Craw-fish Soup.— {No. 235.) 

This soup is sometimes made with beef, or veal broth, or 
with fish, in the following manner : 

Take flounders, eels, gudgeons, &c., and set them on to 
boil in cold water ; when it is pretty nigh boiling, skim il 
well ; and to three quarts put in a couple of onions, and as 
many carrots cut to pieces, some parsley, a dozen berries of 
black and Jamaica pepper, and about half a hundred craw- 
fish ; take off the small claws and shells of the tails ; pound 
them fine, and boil them with the broth about an hour; 
strain off, and break in some crusts of bread to thicken 
it, and, if you can get it, the spawn of a lobster ; pound it, 
and put it to the soup ; let it simmer very gently for a couple 
of minutes ; put in your craw-fish to get hot, and the soup 
is ready. 

Obs. — One of my predecessors recommends craw-fish 
pounded alive, to sweeten the sharpness of the blood. Vide 
Clermont's Cookery, p. 5, London, 1776. 

" Un des grands hommes de houche de France''' says, " Un 
ban coidis d'ecrervisses est le paradis sur la terre, et digne de la 
table des dieux ; and of all the tribe of shell-fish, which our 
industry and our sensuality bring from the bottom of the sea, 
the river, or the pond, the craw-fish is incomparably the most 
useful and the most delicious." 

Lobster Soup.— (No. 237.) 

You must have three fine lively* young hen lobsters, and 
boil them, see No. 176 ; when cold, split the tails ; take out 
the fish, crack the claws, and cut the meat into mouthfuls : 
take out the coral, and soft part of the body ; bruise part of 
the coral in a moitar ; pick out the fish from the chines ; beat 
part of it w4th the coral, and with this make forcemeat balls, 
finely-flavoured with mace or nutmeg, a little grilled lemon= 

* Read No. 176. 



212 BROTHS, GRAVIES, A?JD 60LPS. 

peel, anchovy, and Cayenne ; pound these with the yelk of 
an egg. i 

Have three quarts of veal broth ; bruise the small legs 
and the chine, and put them into it, to boil for twenty 
minutes, then strain it; and then to thicken it, take the 
live spawn and bruise it in a mortar with a little butter 
and flour ; rub it throug-h a sieve, and add it to the soup 
with the meat of the lobsters, and the remaining coral ; let 
it simmer very gently for ten minutes ; do not let it boil, 
or its fine red colour will immediately fade ; turn it into a 
tureen; add the juice of a good lemon, and a little essence 
of anchovy. 

Soup and Bouilli. — (No. 238. See also No. 5. 

The best parts for this purpose are the leg or shin, or a 
piece of the middle of a brisket of beef, of about seven or 
eight pounds weight ; lay it on a fish-drainer, or when you 
take it up put a slice under it, which will enable you to place 
it on the dish entire ; put it into a soup-pot or deep stew-pan, 
with cold water enough to cover it, and a quart over ; set 
it on a quick fire to get the scum up, which remove as it 
rises ; then put in two carrots, two turnips, two leeks, or 
two large onions, two heads of celery, two or three cloves, 
and a fagot of parsley and sweet herbs ; set the pot by 
the side of the fire to simmer very gently, till the meat is 
just tender enough to eat : this will require about four or 
five hours. 

Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large onion, and a head 
or two of celery, into the soup whole ; take them out as 
soon as they are done enough ; lay them on a dish till 
they are cold ; then cut them into small squares : when 
the beef is done, take it out carefully : to dish it up, see 
No. 204, or No. 493 : strain the soup through a hair- 
sieve into a clean stew-pan ; take off the fat, and put the 
vegetables that are cut into the soup, the flavour of which 
you may heighten by adding a table-spoonful of mushroom 
catchup. 

If a thickened soup is preferred, take four large table- 
spoonfuls of the clear fat from the top of the pot, and four 
spoonfuls of flour; mix it smooth together; then by degrees 
stir it well into the soup, which simmer for ten minutes 
longer at least ; skim it well, and pass it through a tamis, or 
fine sieve, and add the vegetables and seasoning the same as 
directed in the clear soup. 

Keep the beef hot, and send it up (as a remove to the 



UROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOLTS. 213 

soup) with finely-chopped parsley sprinkled on the top, and 
a sauce-boat of No. 328. 

Ox-head Soup,— (No. 329.) 

Should be prepared the day before it is to be eaten, as you 
cannot cut the meat off the head into neat mouthfuls unlesst 
it is cold : therefore, the day before you want this soup, put 
half an ox-cheek into a tub of cold water to soak for a couple 
of hours ; then break the bones that have not been broken 
at the butcher's, and wash it very well in v\'anTi water ; put 
it into a pot, and cover it with cold water ; when it boils, 
skim it very clean, and then put in one head of celery, a 
couple of carrots, a turnip, two large onions, two dozen 
berries of black pepper, same of allspice, and a bundle of 
sweet herbs, such as marjoram, lemon-thyme, savoury, and 
a handful of parsley ; cover the soup-pot close, and set it on 
a slow fire ; take off the scum, which will rise when it is 
coming- to a boil, and set it by the fireside to stew very 
gently for about three hours ; take out the head, lay it on a 
dish, pour the soup through a fine sieve into a stone-ware pan, 
and set it and the head by in a cool place till the next day ; 
then cut the meat into neat mouthfuls, skim and strain ofF 
the broth, put two quarts of it and the meat into a clean 
stew-pan, let it simmer very gently for half an hour longer, 
and it is ready. If you wish it thickened (which we do not 
recommend, for the reasons given in the 7th chapter of the 
Rudiments of Cookery), put two ounces of butter into a 
stew-pan ; when it is melted, throw in as much flour as will 
diy it up; when they are all well mixed together, and 
browned by degrees, pour to this your soup, and stir it well 
together ; let it simmer for half an hour longer ; strain it 
through a hair-sieve into a clean stew-pan, and put to it 
the meat of the head ; let it stew half an hour longer, and 
season it with Cayenne pepper, salt, and a glass of good 
wine, or a table-spoonful of brandy. See Ox-cheek stewed. 
No. 507. 

Obs. — Those who wish this soup still more savoury, &c. 
for the means of making it so, we refer to No. 247. 

N.B. This is an excellent and economical soup. See also 
Nos. 204 and 229. 

If you serve it as soup for a dozen people, thicken one 
tureen, and send up the meat in that ; and send up.the other 
as a clear gravy soup, with some of the carrots and turnips 
shredded, or cut into shapes. 



214 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

Ox-tail Soup.— {No. 240.) 

Three tails, costing about 7d. each, will make a tureeu 
of soup (desire the butcher to divide them at the joints) ; 
Jay them to soak in warm water, while you get ready the 
veg-etables. 

Put into a gallon stew-pan eight cloves, two or three 
onions, half a drachm of allspice, and the same of black 
pepper, and the tails ;* cover them with cold water ; skim 
it carefully, when and as long as you see any scum rise ; 
then cover the pot as close as possible, and set it on the side 
of the fire to keep gently simmering till the meat becomes 
tender and will leave the bones easily, because it is to be 
oaten with a spoon, without the assistance of a knife or fork ; 
see N.B. to No. 244 ; this will require about two hours : 
mind it is not done too much : when perfectly tender, take 
out the meat and cut it off the bones, in neat mouthfuls ; 
skim the broth, and strain it through a sieve ; if you prefer 
a thickened soup, put flour and butler, as directed in the 
preceding receipt ; or put two table-spoonfuls of the fat you 
liave taken off the broth into a clean stew-pan, with as much 
flour as will make it into a paste ; set this over the fire, and 
stir them well together ; then pour in the broth by degrees, 
stirring it, and mixing it with the thickening; let it simmer 
for another half hour, and when you have well skimmed it, 
and it is quite smooth, then strain it through a tamis into a 
clean stew-pan, put in the meat, with a table-spoonful of 
mushroom catchup (No. 439), a glass of wine, and season it 
with salt. 

For increasing the piquance of this soup, read No. 247. 

06s. — See N.B. to No. 244; if the meat is cut off the 
bones, you must have three tails for a tureen, see N.B. to 
No. 244 : some put an ox-cheek or tails in an earthen pan, 
with all the ingredients as above, and send them to a slow 
oven for five or six hours. 

To stew ox-tails, see No. 531. 

Ox-heel Soup,~{No. 240*.) 

Must be made the day before it is to be eaten. Procure an 
ox-heel undressed, or only scalded (not one that has been 
already boiled, as they are at the tripe-shops, till almost all 
the gelatinous parts are extracted), and two that have been 
boiled as they usually are at the tripe-shops. 

Cut the meat off the boiled heels into neat mouthfuls, and 

* Some lovers ofkaut gout fry the tails before they put vheiii into tlie soiip-j>ot. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AISD SOUPS. 210 

set it by on a plate ; put the trimmings and bones into a stew- 
pan, with three quarts of water, and the unboiled heel cut 
into quarters ; furnish a stew-pan with two onions, and two 
turnips pared and sliced; pare off the red part of a couple 
of large carrots, add a couple of eschalots cut in half, a 
bunch of savoury or lemon-thyme, and double the quantity 
of parsley; set this over, or by the side of a slow, steady 
fire, and keep it closely covered and simmering very gently 
(or the soup liquor will evaporate) for at least seven hours : 
during which, take care to remove the fat and scum that 
will rise to the surface of the soup, which must be kept as 
clean as possible. 

Now strain the liquor through a sieve, and put two ounces 
of butter into a clean stew-pan ; when it is melted, stir into 
it as much flour as will make it a stiff paste ; add to it by 
degrees the soup liquor; give it a boil up; strain it through 
a sieve, and put in the peel of a lemon pared as thin as pos- 
sible, and a couple of bay-leaves, and the meat of the boiled 
heels ; let it go on simmering for half an hour longer, i. e. till 
the meat is tender. Put in the juice of a lemon, a glass of 
wine, and a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and the 
soup is ready for the tureen. 

Obs. Those who are disposed to make this a more sub- 
stantial dish, may introduce a couple of sets of goose or 
duck giblets, or ox-tails, or a pound of veal cutlets, cut into 
mouthfuls. 



Hare, Rabbit, or Partridge Soup. — (No. 241.) 

An old hare, or birds, when so tough as to defy the teetlt 
in any other form, will make very good soup. 

Cut off the legs and shoulders ; divide the body crossways, 
and stew them very gently in three quarts of water, with one 
carrot, about one omice of onion, with four cloves, two 
blades of pounded mace, twenty-four black peppers, and .i 
bundle of sweet herbs, till the hare is tender (most cooks add 
to the above a couple of slices of ham or bacon, and a bay 
leaf, &c., but my palate and purse both plead against sucli 
extravagance; the hare makes sufliciently savoury soup 
without them) : the time this will take depends very much 
upon its age, and how long it has been kept before it is 
dressed: as a genei^l rule, about three hours: in the mean 
time, make a dozen and a half of nice forcemeat balls (as big 
as nutmegs) of No. 379 ; when the hare is quite tender, take 
the meat off the back, and the upper joint of the legs ; cut it 
into neat mouthfuls, and lay it aside ; cut the rest of the meat 



216 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

off the legs, shoulders, &c., mince it and pound it in a mor- 
tar, with an ounce of butter, and two or three table-spoonfuls? 
of flour moistened with a little soup ; rub this through a hair- 
sieve, and put it into the soup to thicken it ; let it simmer 
slowly half an hour longer, skimming it well ; put it through 
the tamis into the pan again ; and put in the meat with a glass 
of claret or port wine, and a table-spoonful of currant jelly 
to each quart of soup ; season it with salt, put in the force- 
meat balls, and when all is well warmed, the soup is ready. 

Ohs. Cold roast hare will make excellent soup. Chop it 
in pieces, and stew it in water (according to the quantity of 
hare) for about an hour, and manage it as in the above 
receipt : the stuffing of the hare will be a substitute for sweet 
herbs and seasoning. 

N.B. This soup maybe made with mock hare, see No. 66. 

Game Soup.— {No. 242.) 

In the game season, it is easy for a cook to give her master 
a very good soup at a very little expense, by taking all the 
meat off the breasts of any cold birds which have been left 
the preceding day, and pounding it in a mortar, and beating 
to pieces the legs and bones, and boiling them in some broth 
for an hour. Boil six turnips ; mash them, and strain them 
through a tamis-cloth with the meat that has been pounded 
in a mortar ; strain your broth, and put a little of it at a time 
into the tamis to help you to * strain all of it through. Put 
your soup-kettle near the fire, but do not let it boil : when 
ready to dish your dinner, have six yelks of eggs mixed 
with half a pint of cream ; strain through a sieve ; put your 
soup on the fire, and as it is coming to boil, put in the eggs, 
and stir well with a wooden spoon : do not let it boil, or it 
will curdle. 

Goose or Duck Giblet Soup.* — (No. 244.) 

Scald and pick very clean a couple sets of goose, or four 
of duck giblets (the fresher the better) ; wash them well in 
warm water, in two or three waters ; cut off the noses and 
split the heads ; divide the gizzards and necks into mouth- 
fuls. If the gizzards are not cut into pieces before they are 
done enough, the rest of the meat, &c. will be done too much; 
and knives and forks have no business in a soup-plate. 
Crack the bones of the legs, and put them into a stew-pan ; 
cover them with cold water : when they boil, take off the 

* Fowls' 01 turkeys' heads make good and cheap soup in the same manner. 



BROTHS, GEAVIES, A^'D SOUPS. 217 

scum as it rises ; then put in a bundle of herbs, such as 
lemon-thyme, winter savoury, or marjoram, about three sprigs 
of each, and double the quantity of parsley, an onion, twenty 
berries of allspice, the same of black pepper ; tie them all up 
in a muslin bag, and set them to stew veiy gently till the 
giszzards are tender : this wi*ll take from an hour and a half 
to two hours, according to the size and age of the giblets : 
take them up with a skimmer, or a spooH full of holes, put 
them into the tureen, and cover down close to keep wann 
till the soup is ready. 

To thicken the soup. Melt an ounce and a half of butter 
in a clean stew-pan; stir in as much tlour as will make it 
into a paste ; then pour to it by degrees a ladleful of the gft)let 
liquor; add the remainder by degrees ; let it boil about half 
an hour, stirring it all the while for fear it should burn ; skim 
it, and strain it through a fine sieve into a basin ; wash out 
the stew-pan; then return the soup into it, and season it with 
a glass of wine, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, and 
a little salt ; let it have one boil up ; and then put the giblets 
in to get hot, and the soup is ready. 

06s. Thus managed, one set of goose, or two of duck gib- 
lets (which latter may sometimes be had for 3d.), will make 
a quart of healthful, nourishing soup : if you think the giblets 
alone will not make the gravy savoury enough, add a pound 
of beef or mutton, or bone of a knuckle of veal, and heighten 
its "^z^wawce" by adding a few leaves of sweet basil, the 
juice of half a Seville orange or lemon, and half a glass of 
wine, and a little of No. 343* to each quart of soup. 

Those who are fond of forcemeat may slip the skin off the 
neck, and fill it with No. 378 ; tie up the other end tight ; put 
it into the soup about half an hour before you take it up, or 
make some nice savoury balls of the duck stuffing. No. 61. 

06s. Bespeak the giblets a couple of days before you desire 
to have them : this is a favourite soup when the giblets are 
done till nicely tender, but yet not overboiled. Giblets may 
be had from July to January ; the fresher they are the better. 

N.B. This is rather a family-dish than a company one; 
the bones cannot be well picked without the help of alive 
pincers. 

Since Tom Cory at introduced forks, A. D. 1642, it has not 
been the fashion to put " pickers and stealers" into soup. 



218 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 



Mock Mock Turtle,— (No. 245.) 

Jls made by Elizabeth Lister [late cook to Dr. Kitchiner), brean 
and biscuit baker, JVo. 6 Salcornbe Place, York Terrace^ 
RegenVs Park. Goes out to dress dinners on reasonable 
terms. 

Line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints, with 
an ounce of nice lean bacon or ham, a pound and a half of 
lean gravy beef, a cow-heel, the inner rind of a carrot, a 
sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savoury, three times the quan- 
tity of parsley, a few green leaves of sweet basil,* and two 
eschalots ; put in a large onion, with four cloves stuck in it, 
eighteen corns of allspice, the same of black pepper ; pour on 
these a quarter of a pint of cold water, cover the stew-pan, 
and set it on a slow fire, to boil gently for a quarter of an 
hour ; then, for fear the meat should catch, take off the cover, 
and watch it ; and when it lias got a good brown colour, fill 
up the stew-pan with boiling water, and let it simmer very 
gently for two hours : if you wish to have the full benefit of 
the meat, only stew it till it is just tender, cut it into mouth- 
fuls, and put it into the soup. To thicken it, pour two or three 
table-spoonfuls of flour, a ladle ful of the gravy, and stir it quick 
till it is well mixed ; pour it back into the stew-pan where the 
gravy is, and let it simmer gently for half an hour longer ; 
skim it, and then strain it through a tamis into the stew-pan : 
cut the cow-heel into pieces about an inch square, squeeze 
through a sieve the juice of a lemon, a table-spoonful of 
mushroom catchup, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful 
of ground black pepper, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on 
a sixpence, and a glass of Madeira or sherry wine; let it all 
simmer together for five minutes longer. 

Forcemeat or egg balls may be added if you please ; you 
will find a receipt for these, No. 380, &c. 

*** A pound of veal cutlets, or the belly part of pickled 
pork, or nice double tripe cut into pieces about an inch 
square, and half an inch thick, and rounded and trimmed 
neatly from all skin, gristle, &c. and stewed till they are ten- 
der, will be a great addition. 

* To tliis fine aromatic herb, turtle soup is much indebted for its spicy flavour, 
and the high esteem it is held in by the good citizens of London, who, I believe, are 
pretty generally ftf the same opinion as Dr. Salmon. See his " Household Dictionary 
and Essay on Cookery^''' 8vo. London, 1710, page 34, article ' Basil.' " This com- 
forts the heart, expels melanchol}', and cleanses the lungs." See No. 307. "This 
plant gave the peculiar tlavoiir to the original Fetter lane sausages.'" — GRATf's 
Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia, 8vo. 1821 p. 52. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 219 

Mock Turtle,— {No. 247.) 

Is the " bonne louche'" which " the officers of the mouth" of 
old England* prepare, when they choose to rival " hs grands 
cuisiniers de France''^ in a ^^ ragout sans par eil.^^ 

The following receipt is an attempt (and the committee of 
taste pronounced it a successful one), to imitate the excellent 
and generally approved mock turtle made by Messrs. Birch, 
Cornhill. 

Endeavour to have the head and the broth ready for the 
soup,t the day before it is to be eaten. 

It will take eight hours to prepare it properly. 

hours. 

Cleaning and soaking the head 1 

To parboil it to cut up 1 

Cooling, nearly 1 

Making the broth and finishing the soup 5 

8 

Get a calf's head with the skin on (the fresher the better) ; 
take out the brains, wash the head several times in cold 
water, let it soak for about an hour in spring-water, then lay 
it in a stew-pan, and cover it with cold water, and half a 
gallon over ; as it becomes warm, a great deal of scum will 
rise, which must be immediately removed ; let it boil gently 
for one hour, take it up, and when almost cold, cut the head 
into pieces about an inch and a half by an inch and a quarter, 
and the tongue into mouthfuls, or rather make a side-dish of 
the tongue and brains, as in No. 10. 

When the head is taken out, put in the stock meat,J about 
five pounds of knuckle of veal, and as much beef; add to the 
stock all the trimmings and bones of the head, sldm it well, 

" Tout le monde Fait que tous les ragouts qui portent le nom de tortui, sent 
d'orisine Anglaise." — Manuel des Jimphitryons, 8vo. 1808, p. 229. 

t Those who do not like the trouble, &c. of making mock turtle, may be supplied 
with it ready made, in high perfection, at Birch's, in Cornhill. It is not poisoned 
with Cayenne pepper, which the turtle and mock turtle soup of most pastry cooks 
and tavern cooks is, and to that degree, that it acts like a blister on the coats of \.h(§ 
stomach. This prevents our mentioning any other maker of this soup, which j!# 
often made with cow-heel, or the mere scalp of the calf's head, instead of the head 
itself. 

The following are Mr. Birch's directions for warming this soup : — Empty the 
turtle into a broad earthen vessel, to keep cool : when wanted for table, to two 
quarts of soup add one gill of boiling water or veal broth, put it over a good, clear 
fire, keeping it gently stirred (that it may not burn) ; when it has boiled about three 
niinutes, skim it, and put it in the tureen. 

N.B. The broth or water, and the wine, to be put into the stew-pan before you 
put in the turtle. 

X The reader may have remarked, that mock turtle and potted beef always come 
in season together. 

{?ee Obs. to No. 503*. This gravy meat will make an excellent savoury potted 
relisn, as it will be imprej-'uated with the flavour of the herbs and spice that ara 
b<jiJed with it. 



220 BEOTIIS, GRAVIES, AND SOUrS. 

and then cover it close, and let it boil five hours (resen'e a 
couple of quarts of this to make gravy sauces, &c. see No. 
307) ; then strain it off, and let it stand till the next morning' ; 
then take off the fat, set a large ste^v-pan on the fire with half 
a pound of good fresh butter, twelve ounces of onions sliced, 
and four ounces of green sage ; chop it a little ; let these fry 
one hour ; then rub in half a pound of flour, and by degrees 
'add your broth till it is the thickness of cream ; season it 
.with a quarter of an ounce of ground allspice and half an 
*oimce o^ black pepper ground very fine, salt to your taste, 
and the rind of one lemon peeled very thin ; let it simmer 
very gently for one hour and a half, then strain it through a 
hair-sieve ; do not rub your soup to get it through the sieve, 
or it will make it grouty ; if it does not run through easily, 
knock your wooden-spoon against the side of your sieve ; 
put it in a clean stew-pan with the head, and season it by 
adding to each gallon of soup half a pint of wine ; this 
should be Madeira, or, if you wish to darken the colour of 
3'our soup, claret, and two table-spoonfuls of lemon-juice, 
see No. 407* ; let it simmer gently till the meat is tender ; 
this may take from half an hour to an hour: take care it is 
not over-done ; stir it frequently to prevent the meat stick- 
ing to the bottom of the stew-pan, and when the meat is 
quite tender the soup is ready. 

A head weighing twenty pounds, and ten pounds of stock 
meat, will make ten quarts of excellent soup, besides the 
two quarts of stock you have put by for made dishes, &c. 

Obs. If there is more meat on the head than you wish to 
put in the soup, prepare it for a pie, and, with the addition 
of a calf's foot boiled tender, it will make an excellent 
ragout pie ; season it with zest, and a little minced onion, 
put in half a tea-cupful of stock, cover it with puff paste, 
and bake it one hour: when the soup comes from table, if 
there is a deal of meat and no soup, put it into a pie-dish, 
season it a little, and add some little stock to it ; then cover 
it with paste, bake it one hour, and you have a good mock 
turtle pie. 

This soup was eaten by the committee of taste with 
unanimous applause, and they pronounced it a ver\' satis- 
factory substitute* for "the far-fetch'd and dear-bought" 

* " Many gourmets and gastrolosrers prefer tlie copy to the original : we confess 
that wlien done as it onuht to be, the mock turtle is exceedingly interesting." — Ta- 
bella Cibaria, 18:20, p. 30. 

" Turtles often become emaciated and sickly before they reach this country, in 
which case, rlie soup would be incomparably improved by leaving out the turtle, 
and substiluiing a good calf's head." — Hupplement to Encyc Brit- Edinburgh, vol. 
iv. p. 331. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 221 

turtle ; which is entirely indebted for its title of " sovereign 
of savouriness," to the rich soup with which it is sur- 
rounded. 

Without its paraphernalia of subtle double relishes, a 
"starved turtle," has not more intrinsic sapidity than a 
" fatted calf." Friendly reader, it is really neither half so 
wholesome, nor half so toothsome. See Essence of Turtle, 
No. 343*, and 06s. to No. 493. To warm this soup, see No. 
485. 

To season it, to each gallon of soup put two table-spoon- 
fuls of lemon-juice, see No. 407*, same of mushroom 
catchup (No. 439), and one of essence of anchovy (No. 433), 
half a pint of wine (this should be Madeira, or, if you wish 
to darken the colour of your soup, claret), a tea-spoonful of 
curry powder (No. 455), or a quarter of a drachm of Cay- 
enne, and the peel of a lemon pared as thin as possible ; let 
it simmer five minutes more, take out the lemon-peel, and the 
soup is ready for the tureen. 

\\Tiile the soup is doing-, prepare for each tureen a dozen 
and a half of mock turtle forcemeat balls (to make these, 
see No. 375 or No. 376, No. 390 to No. 396) ; we prefer the 
stuffing ordered in No. 61, and a dozen egg balls ; and put 
them into the tureen. Brain balls, or cakes, are a veiy 
elegant addition, and are made by boiling the brains for ten 
minutes, then putting them in cold water, and cutting them 
into pieces about as big as a large nutmeg ; take savoury, 
or lemon-thyme dried and finely-powdered, nutmeg grated, 
and pepper and salt, and pound them all together ; beat up 
an egg, dip the brains in it, and then roll them in this mix- 
ture, and make as much of it as possible stick to them ; dip 
them in the egg again, and then in finely-grated and sifted 
bread-crumbs ; fry them in hot fat, and send them up as a 
side-dish. 

A veal sweetbread, prepared as in No. 89, not too much 
done or it will break, cut into pieces the same size as you 
cut the calPs head, and put in the soup, just to get warm 
before it goes to table, is a superb " bo7ine houche ;" and 
pickled tongue, stewed till very tender, and cut into mouth- 
fuls, is a favourite addition. We order the meat to be cut 
into mouthfuls, that it may be eaten with a spoon : the knife 
and fork have no business in a soup-plate. 

*^* Some of our culinary contemporaries order the haut 
gout of this (as above directed, sufficiently relishing) soup 

[Verj' fine fat turtles are brought to New- York from tbe West Indies ; and,during 
the warm weatlier, kept in crawls till wanted: of these they make soup, which 
surpasses any mock turtle ever made. A.] 

T2 



222 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND 30UPS. 

to be combustibled and bedevilled with a copious addition 
of anchovies, mushrooms, truffles, morelles, curry-powder, 
artichoke bottoms, salmon's head and liver, or the soft part 
of oysters or lobsters, soles cut in mouthfuls, a bottle of 
Madeira, a pint of brandy, &c. ; and to complete their sur- 
feiting and burn-gullet olio, they put in such a tremendous 
quantity of Cayenne pepper, that only a fire-proof palate, 
lined with asbestos, or indurated by Indian diet, can endure 
it. See note under No. 493. 

N.B. In helping this soup, the distributer of it should 
serve out the meat, forcemeat, and gravy, in equal parts ; 
however trifling or needless this remark may appear, the 
writer has often suffered from the want of such a hint being 
given to the soup-server, who has sometimes sent a plate 
of mere gravy without meat, at others, of meat without 
gravy, and sometimes scarcely any thing but forcemeat 
balls. 

Obs. This is a delicious soup, M'ithin the reach of those 
who " eat to live ;" but if it had been composed expressly 
for those who only " live to eat," I do not know how it could 
have been made more agreeable : as it is, the lover of good 
eating will " wish his throat a mile long, and eveiy inch of 
it palate." 

N.B. Cucumber in a side-plate is a laudable vegetable 
accompaniment. 

E7iglish Turtle.— (So. 248.) 
See No. 502. " A-la-mode beef." 

Curry, or Mullaga-tawny* Soitj). — (No. 249.) 

Cut four pounds of a breast of veal into pieces, about two 
inches by one ; put the trimmings into a stew-pan with two 
quarts of \vater, with twelve corns of black pepper, and the 
same of allspice ; when it boils, skim it clean, and let it boil 
an hour and a half, then strain it off; while it is boiling, fry 
of a nice brown in butter the bits of veal and four onions ; 
when they are done, put the broth to them ; put it on the fire ; 
when it boils, skim it clean ; let it simmer half an hour ; then 

* Mullaga-tawny signifies pepper water. The progress of inexperienced peri- 
patetic palaticians has lately been arrested by these outlandish words being pasted 
on the windows of our coffee-houses. It has, we believe, answered the ^'■restaura- 
teur's" purpose, and often excited John Bull to walk in and taste : the more 
familiar name of curry soup would, perhaps, not have had sitfficient of the charms 
of novelty to seduce him from his much-loved mock turtle. 

It is a fashionable soup, and a great favourite with our East Indian friends, and 
we give the best receipt we could procure for it. 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 223 

mix two spoonfuls of curry, and the same of flour, with a 
little cold water and a tea-spoonful of salt ; add these to the 
soup, and simmer it gently till the veal is quite tender, and 
it is ready ; or bone a couple of fowls or rabbits, and stew 
them in the manner directed above for the veal, and' you may 
put in a bruised eschalot, and some mace and ginger, instead 
of black pepper and allspice. 
Obs. Read No. 497. 

Turtle* Soup,— (No. 250.) 

As it is our wish that this work should be given to the 
public at the lowest possible price, the receipt for dressing 
a turtle is taken out, as a professed cook is always hired for 
the purpose of dressing it. The space this long receipt oc- 
cupied is now filled with directions for making useful pickles. 
See No. 462. 

Portable^ Soup, or Glaze.— (No. 252.) 

Desire the butcher to break the bones of a leg or a shin 
of beef, of ten pounds M^eight (the fresher killed the better) ; 
put it into a soup-pot (a digester]; is the best utensil for this 
purpose) that will well hold it ; just cover it with cold water, 
and set it on the fire to heat gradually till it nearly boils 
(this should be at least an hour) ; skim it attentively while 

* " The usual allowance at a turtle feast is six pounds live weight per head : at 
the Spanish dinner, at the City of London Tavern, in August, 1808, 400 guests 
attended, and 2500 pounds of turtle were consumed." — See Bell's Weekly Mes- 
senger for August 7th, ISC^. 

Epicure Q.uin used to say, it was " not safe to sit down to a turtle feast at one of 
the City Halls, without a basket-hilted knife and fork." 

We recommend our friends, before encountering such a temptation, to read our 
peptic precepts. Nothing is more difficult of digestion, or ofteuer requires the aid 
of peristaltic persuaders, than the glutinous callipash which is considered the ^^ bonne 
bouche" of this soup. Turtle is generally spoiled by being over-dressed. 

[In Philadelphia, an excellent turtle soup is made of a small native tortoise, called 
a terrapin, and the article terrapin soup. A.] 

t " A pound of meat contains about an ounce of gelatinous matter ; it thence 
follows, that 1500 pounds of the same meat, which is the wholii weight of a bullock, 
would give only 94 pounds, which might be easily contained in an earthen jar." — 
Dr. Hlttos's Rational Recreations, vol. iv. p. 194. 

In what degree f)ortable or other soup be nutritious, we know not, but refer the 
reader to our note under No. 185*. 

+ This machine was invented by Dr, Denys Papin, F.R.S., about the year 1631, 
as appears by his essay on " The JVew Digester, or Engine for Softening Bones ;'" 
" by the help of which (he says) the oldest and hardest cow-beef may fe made as 
tender and as savoury as young and choice meat." 

Although we have not yet found that they do what Dr. Papin says, " make old 
and tough meat young and tender," ihey are, however, excellent things to make 
broths and soups in. Among a multitude of other admirable excellencies obtainable 
by his digester. Dr. Papin, in his 9th chapter, page 54, on the profit that a good 
eiigine may come to, says, '• I have found that an old hat, v^ry bad and loosely 
mu\e, having imbibed the jelly of bones became very firm and stiff." 



224 BROTHS, GEAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

any scum rises ; pour in a little cold water, to throw up the 
scum that may remain ; let it come to a boil again, and ag-ain 
skim it carefully : when no more scum rises, and the broth 
appears clear (put in neither roots, nor herbs, nor salt), let it 
boil for eight or ten hours, and then strain it through a hair- 
sieve into a brown stone pan ; set the broth where it will 
cool quickly ; put the meat into a sieve, let it drain, make 
potted beef (No. 503), or it will be very acceptable to many 
poor families. Next day remove every particle of fat from 
the top of it, and pour it through a tamis, or fine sieve, as 
quietly as possible, into a stew-pan, taking care not to let 
any of the settlings at the bottom of the stone pan go into 
the stew-pan, which should be of thick copper, perfectly well 
tinned ; add a quarter of an ounce of whole black pepper to 
it ; let it boil briskly, with the stew-pan uncovered, on a quick 
fire ; if any scum rises, take it oif with a skimmer: when it 
begins to thicken, and is reduced to about a quart, put it into 
a smaller stew-pan ; set it over a gentler fire, till it is reduced 
to the thickness of a very thick syrup ; take care that it does 
not burn, a moment's inattention now will lose you all your 
labour, and the soup will be spoiled : take a little of it out in 
a spoon and let it cool ; if it sets into a strong jelly, it is done 
enough ; if it does not, boil it a little longer till it does ; have 
ready some little pots, such as are used for potted meats, 
about an inch and a half deep, taking care that they are quite 
dry ; we recommend it to be kept in these pots, if it is for 
home consumption (the less it is reduced, the better is the 
flavour of the soup), if it be sufficiently concentrated to keep 
for six months ; if you wish to preserve it longer, put it into 
such bladders as are used for German sausages, or if you 
prefer it in the form of cakes, pour it into a dish about a 
quarter of an inch deep; when it is cold, turn it out and 
weigh the cake, and divide it with a paste-cutter into pieces 
of half an ounce and an ounce each ; place them in a warm 
room, and turn them frequently till they are thoroughly 
dried ; this will take a week or ten days ; turn them twice a 
day ; Avhen well hardened, and kept in a dry place, they may 
be preserved for several 3^ears in any climate. 

This extract of meat makes excellent " tablettes de Bouil 
lon,''^ for those who are obliged to endure long fasting. 

If the surface becomes mouldy, wipe it with a little warm 
water ; the mouldy taste does not penetrate the mass. 

If, after several days' drying, it does not become so hard 
as you wish, put it into a bainmarie stew-pan, or milk-boiler, 
till it is evaporated to the consistence you wish ; or, set the 
pots in a cool oven, or in a cheese-toaster, at a considerable 



BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 225 

distance from the fire : this is the only safe way of reducing 
it very much, without the risk of its burning, and acquiring 
an extremely disagreeable, acrid flavour, &c. 

Obs. The uses of this concentrated essence of meat are 
numerous. It is equally economical and convenient for 
making extempore broths enumerated in the Obs. to No. 
200, sauces and gravies for hashed or stewed meat, game, or 
poult r}*, &c. 

You may thicken it and flavour it as directed in No. 329 ; 
to make gravy, sauces, &c. take double the quantity ordered 
for broth. 

If you have time and opportunity, as there is no season- 
ing in the soup, either of roots, herbs, or spice, boil an onion 
with or without a bit of parsley and sweet herbs, and a few 
corns of allspice, or other spice, in the water you melt the 
soup in, which may be flavoured with mushroom catchup 
(No. 439), or eschalot wine (No. 402), essence of sweet 
herbs (No. 417), savoury spice (No. 421, or No. 457), essence 
of celery^(No. 409), &c. or zest (No. 255) ; these may be 
combined in the proportions most agreeable to the palate of 
the eater, and are as portable as portable soup, for a very 
small portion will flavour a pint. 

The editor adds nothing to the solution of this soup, but a 
very little ground black pepper and some salt. 

N.B. If you are a careful manager, you need not always 
purchase meat on purpose to make this ; when you dress a 
large dinner, you can make glaze at very small cost, by 
taking care of the trimmings and parings of the meat, game, 
and poultry, you use : Avash them well, put them into a 
stew-pan, cover them with the liquor you have boiled meat 
in, and proceed as in the above receipt; and see Obs. on 
No. 185. 

Mem. This portable soup is a most convenient article in 
cookery ; especially in small families, whe reit will save a 
great deal of time and trouble. It is also economical, for no 
more will be melted than is wanted ; so there is no waste. 

Nine pounds of neck of beef, costing 25. 7hd. produced 
nine ounces of very nice soup; the bones, when boiled, 
weighed ten ounces. 

Half an ox-cheek, costing Is. 9d. and weighing 14| 
pounds, produced thirteen ounces ; but not so firm or clear, 
and far inferior in flavour to that obtained from a shin of beef. 

A sheep's head, costing 9d., produced three ounces and a 
half. 

Two pounds of lean meat, from the blade-bone of beef, 
produced hardly an ounce. 



226 BROTHS, GRAVIES, AND SOUPS. 

The addition of an ounce of gum arable, and two ounce* 
of ising^lass, to four ounces of the extract from a leg of beef, 
considerably diminished the consistence of the mass, with- 
out adding to its bulk. 

It has been thought that the portable soup which is manu- 
factured for sale, is partl}^ made with ox-heels ; but the ex- 
periment (No. 198) proves this cannot be, as an ounce of the 
jelly from ox-heel costs 5c?. For the cheapest method of 
procuring a hard jelly, see N.B. to No. 481 ; nineteen bones, 
costing 4:hd. produced three ounces : almost as cheap as 
Salisbuiy glue. 

A knuckle of veal, weighing 4| pounds, and costing 2s, 
Ad. produced five ounces. 

A shin of beef, weighing nine pounds, and costing \s, 
\Ohd. produced nine ounces of concentrated soup, sufficiently 
reduced to keep for several months. After the boiling, the 
bones in this joint weighed two pounds and a quarter, and 
the meat two pounds and a quarter. 

The result of these experiments is, that the product from 
legs and shins of beef M^as almost as large in quantity, and 
of much superior quality and flavour, as that obtained from 
any of the other materials ; the flavour of the product from 
mutton, veal, &c. is comparatively insipid. 

As it is difiicult to obtain this ready-made of good quality, 
and we could not find any proper and circumstantial directions 
for making it, which, on trial, answered the purpose, and it 
is really a great acquisition to the army and navy, to tra- 
vellers, invalids, &c. the editor has bestowed some time, «fec. 
in endeavouring to learn, and to teach, how it may be pre- 
pared in the easiest, most economical, and perfect manner. 

The ordinary selling price is from lOs. to 12s., but you 
may make it according to the above receipt for 3s. &d. per 
pound, i. €. for 22d. per ounce, which will make you a pint 
of broth. 

Those who do not regard the expense, and like the flavour, 
may add the lean of ham, in the proportion of a pound to 
eight pounds of leg of beef. 

It may also be flavoured, by adding to it, at the time you 
put the broth into the smaller stew-pan, mushroom catchup, 
eschalot wine, essences of spice or hert)s, &c. ; we prefer it 
quite plain ; it is then ready to be converted, in an instant, 
into a basin of beef tea, for an invalid, and any flavour may 
be immediately communicated to it by the magazine of 
taste (No. 462). 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 227 

To clarify Broth or Gravy.— {No. 25-2*.) \ 

Put on the broth in a clean stew-pan ; break the white and 
shell of an egg, beat them together, put them into the broth, 
stir it with a whisk ; when it has boiled a few minutes, strain 
it through a tamis or a napkin. 

Obs. A careful cook will seldom have occasion to clarify 
her broths, &c. if prepared according to the directions given 
in No. 200. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Melted Butter, 

Is so simple and easy to prepare, that it is a matter of 
general surprise, that what is done so often in every English 
kitchen, is so seldom done right : foreigners may well say, 
that although we have only one sauce for vegetables, fish, 
flesh, fowl, &c. we hardly ever make that good. 

It is spoiled nine times out of ten, more from idleness than 
from ignorance, and rather because the cook won't than be- 
cause she can't do it; which can only be the case when 
housekeepers will not allow butter to do it with. 

Good melted butter cannot be made with mere flour and 
water ; there must be a full and proper proportion of butter. 
As it must be always on the table, and is the foundation of 
almost all our English sauces, we have, 

Melted butter and oysters, 
parsley, 

anchovies, 

eggs, 

shrimps, 

lobsters, 

capers, &c. &c. &;c. 

I have tried every way of making it ; and I trust, at last, 
that I have written a receipt, which, if the cook will care- 
fully observe, she will constantly succeed in giving satis- 
faction. 

In the quantities of the various sauces I have ordered, I 
have had in view the providing for a family of half-a-dozen 
moderate people. 

Never pour sauce over meat, or even put it into the dish; 



228 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

however well made, some of the company may have an 
antipathy to it ; tastes are as different as faces : moreover, 
if it is sent up separate in a boat, it will keep hot long-er, 
and what is left may be put by for another time, or used for 
another purpose. 

Lastly. Observe, that in ordering- the proportions of meat, 
butter, wine, spice, &c. in the following receipts, the proper 
quantity is set down, and that a less quantity will not do ; 
and in some instances those palates which have been used 
to the extreme of piquance, will require additional excite- 
ment.* If we have erred, it has been on the right side, from 
an anxious wish to combine economy with elegance, and the 
wholesome with the toothsome. 

Melted Butter. 

Keep a pint stew-panf for this purpose only. 

Cut two ounces of butter into little bits, that it may melt 
more easily, and mix more readily; put it into the stew-pan 
with a large tea-spoonful (t. e. about three drachms) of flour, 
(some prefer arrow-root, or potato starch. No. 448), and two 
table-spoonfuls of milk. 

When thoroughly mixed, add six table-spoonfuls of water ; 
hold it over the fire, and shake it round every minute (all the 
while tlie same way), till it just begins to simmer ; then let 
it stand^uietly and boil up. It should be of the thickness 
of good cream. 

N.B. Two table-spoonfuls of No. 439, instead of the milk. 
Mall make as good muslu'oom sauce as need be, and is a 
superlative accompaniment to either fish, flesh, or fowl. 

Ohs. This is the best way of preparing melted butter; 
milk mixes with the butter much more easily and more inti- 
mately than water alone can be made to do. This is of 
proper thickness to be mixed at table with flavouring essences, 

* This may be easily accomplislied by the aid of that whip and spur, which stu- 
dents of long standing in the scIjooI of good living are generally so fond of enlivening 
their palates with, i. e. Cayenne and garlic. 

Parsley (No. 261), chervil (No. 264), ceJery (No. 289), cress (No. 397*), tarragon 
Wo. 396), burnet (No. 399), basil (No. 397), eschalot (Nos. 295 and 403), caper (Nos. 
274 and 295), fennel (No. 265), livet (Nos. 287 and 2&8), curry (Nos. 348 and 455), 
egg, (No. 267,) mushroom (No. 403), anchovy (Nos. 270 and 433), ragout (Nos. 421 
and 457), shrimp (No. 283), bonne bouche (No. 341,) superlative (No. 429), and 
various flavouring essences. See from No. 396 to 463. 

Any of the above vegetables, &c. may be minced very finely, and sent to table on 
a little plate, and those who like their "flavour may mix them with melted butter, 
&c. This is a hint for economists, which will save them many pounds of butter, 
&c. See Mkm. to No. 256. 

t A silver saucepan is infinitely the best : you may have one big enough to melt 
butter for a moderate family, for four or five pounds. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 229 

anchovy, mushroom, or cavice, &c. If made merely to pour 
over vegetables, add a little more milk to it. 

N.B. If the butter oils, put a spoonful of cold water to it, 
and stir it \vith a spoon ; if it is very much oiled, it must be 
poured backwards and forwards from the stew-pan to the 
sauce-boat till it is right again. 

Mem. Melted butter made to be mixed with flavouring 
essences, catchups, &c. should be of the thickness of light 
batter, that it may adliere to the fish, &c. 

Thickening. — (No. 257.) 

Clarified butter is best for this purpose ; but if you have 
none ready, put some fresh butter into a stew-pan over a 
slow, clear fire ; when it is melted, add fine flour sufficient to 
make it the thickness of paste ; stir it well together with a 
wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes, till it is quite 
smooth, and the colour of a guinea : this must be done very 
gradually and patiently; if you put it over too fierce a fire to 
hurry it, it will become bitter and empyreumatic : pour it into 
an earthen pan, and keep it for use. It will keep good a 
fortnight in summer, and longer in winter. 

A large spoonful will generally be enough to thicken a 
quart of gra^y. 

Obs. This, in the French kitchen, is called roux. Be par- 
ticularly attentive in making it ; if it gets any burnt smell 
or taste, it will spoil every thing it is put into, see Obs. to 
No. 322. When cold, it should be tliick enough to cut out 
with a knife, like a solid paste. 

It is a very essential article in the kitchen, and is the basis 
of consistency in most made-dishes, soups, sauces, and 
ragouts ; if the gravies, &c. are too thin, add this thickening, 
more or less, according to the consistence you would wish 
them to have. 

Mem. In making thickening, the less butter, and the more 
flour you use, the better ; they must be thoroughly worked 
together, and the broth, or soup, &c. you put them to, added 
by degrees : take especial care to incorporate them well toge- 
ther, or your sauces, &c. will taste floury, and have a dis- 
gusting, greasy appearance : therefore, after you have thick- 
ened your sauce, add to it some broth, or warm water, in the 
proportion of two table-spoonfuls to a pint, and set it by the 
side of the fire, to raise any fat, &c. that is not thoroughly 
incorporated with the gravy, which you must carefully 
remove as it comes to the top. This is called cleansing, or 
finishing the sauce. 

U 



230 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

*^* Half an ounce of butter, and a table-spoonful of flour, 
are about the proportion for a pint of sauce to make it as 
thick as cream. 

N.B. The fat skimmings off the top of the broth pot are 
sometimes substituted for butter (see No. 240) ; some cooks 
merely thicken their soups and sauces with flour, as we have 
directed in No. 245, or potato farina, No. 448. 

Clarified Butter.— (No. 259.) 

Put the butter in a nice, clean stew-pan, over a very clear, 
slow fire ; watch it, and when it is melted, carefully skim off 
the buttermilk, &c. which will swim on the top ; let it stand 
a minute or two for the impurities to sink to the bottom ; 
then pour the clear butter through a sieve into a clean basin, 
leaving the sediment at the bottom of the stew-pan. 

Obs. Butter thus purified will be as sweet as marrow, a 
very useful covering for potted meats, &c., and for frying fish 
equal to the finest Florence oil ; for which purpose it is com- 
monly used by Catholics, and those whose religious tenets 
will not allow them to eat viands fried in animal oil. 

Burnt Butter.— (No. 260.) 

Put two ounces of fresh butter into a small frying-pan; 
when it becomes a dark brown colour, add to it a table- 
spoonful and a half of good vinegar, and a little pepper and 
salt. 

Obs. This is used as sauce for boiled fish, or poached eggs. 

Oiled Butter.— {No. 260*.) 

Put two ounces of fresh butter into a saucepan ; set it at 
a distance from the fire, so that it may melt gradually, till it 
comes to an oil ; and pour it off quietly from the dregs. 

Obs. This will supply the place of olive oil; and by some 
is preferred to it either for salads or frying. 

Parsley and Butter. — (No. 261.) 

Wash some parsley very clean, and pick it carefully leaf 
by leaf; put a tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint of boiling 
water : boil the parsley about ten minutes ; drain it on a 
sieve ; mince it quite fine, and then bruise it to a pulp. 

The delicacy and excellence of this elegant and innocent 
relish depends upon the parsley being minced very fine : put 
it into a sauce-boat, and mix with it, by degrees, about half a 
pint of good melted butter (No. 256) ; only do not put so 



GRAVIES AKD SAUCES. 231 

much flour to it, as the parsley will add to its thickness : 
never pour parsley and butter over boiled things, but send it 
up in a boat. 

Obs. In French cookery-books this is called " melted butter, 
English fashion;" and, with the addition of a slice of lemon 
cut into dice, a little allspice and vinegar, " Dutch sauce." 

N.B. To preser\.3 parsley through the winter: in May, 
June, or July, take iine fresh-gathered sprigs ; pick, and wash 
them clean ; set on a stew-pan half full of water ; put a little 
salt in it ; boil, and skim it clean, and then put in the parsley, 
and let it boil for a couple of minutes ; take it out, and 
lay it on a sieve before the fire, that it may be dried as quick 
as possible ; put it by in a tin box, and keep it in a dry place : 
when you want it, lay it in a basin, and cover it with warm 
water a few minutes before you use it. 

Gooseberry Sauce. — (No. 263.) 

Top and tail them close with a pair of scissors, and scald 
half a pint of green gooseberries ; drain them on a hair-sieve, 
and put them into half a pint of melted butter. No. 256. 

Some add grated ginger and lemon-peel, and the French, 
minced fennel; others send up the gooseberries whole or 
mashed, without any butter, &c. 

Chervil, Basil, Tarragon, Burnet, Cress, arid Butter. — (No. 264.) 

This is the first time that chervil, which has so long been 
a favourite with the sagacious French cook, has been intro- 
duced into an English book. Its flavour is a strong concen- 
tration of the combined taste of parsley and femiel, but more 
aromatic and agreeable than either ; and is an excellent 
sauce with boiled poultry or fish. Prepare it, &c. as we have 
directed for parsley and butter. No. 261. 

Fennel and Butter for Mackerel, <^c. — (No. 265.) 

Is prepared in the same manner as we have just described 
in No. 261. 

06s. For mackerel sauce, or boiled soles, &c.; some people 
take equal parts of fennel and parsley ; others add a sprig of 
mint, or a couple of young onions minced very fine. ^ 

Mackerel-roe Sauce. — (No. 266.) 

Boil the roes of mackerel (soft roes are best) ; bruise them 
with a spoon with tlie yelk of an egg, beat up with a very 
little pepper and salt, and some fennel and parsley boiled 



£32 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

and chopped very fine, mixed with almost half a pint of thin 
melted butter. See No. 256. 

Mushroom catchup, walnut pickle, or soy may be added. 

Egg Sauce.— {No. 267.) 

This agreeable accompaniment to roasted poultry, or salted 
fish, is made by putting three eggs into boiling water, and 
boiling them for about twelve minutes, when they will be 
hard ; put them into cold water till you want them. This 
will make the yelks firmer, and prevent their surface turning 
black, and you can cut them much neater : use only two of 
the whites ; cut the whites into small dice, the yelks into 
bits about a quarter of an inch square ; put them into a sauce- 
boat; pour to them half a pint of melted batter, and stir 
them together. 

Ohs. The melted butter for egg sauce need not be made 
quite so thick as No. 256. If you are for superlative egg 
sauce, pound the yelks of a couple of eggs, and rub them 
with the melted butter to thicken it. 

N.B. Some cooks garnish salt fish with hard-boiled eggs 
cut in half. 

Plum-jmdding Sauce. — (No. 269.) 

A glass of sherry, half a glass of brandy (or " cherry- 
bounce"), or Curagoa (No. 474), or essence of punch (Nos. 
471 and 479), and two tea-spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar 
(a very little grated lemon-peel is sometimes added), in a 
quarter of a pint of thick melted butter : grate nutmeg on 
the top. 

See Pudding Catchup, No. 446. 

Anchovy Sauce. — (No. 270.) 

Pound three anchovies in a mortar with a little bit of 
butter '^ rub it through a double hair-sieve with the back of a 
wooden spoon, and stir it into almost half a pint of melted 
butter (No. 256) ; or stir in a table-spoonful of essence of 
anchovy, No. 433. To the above, many cooks add lemon- 
juice and Cayenne. 

Obs. Foreigners make this sauce with good brown sauce 
(No. 329), or white sauce (No. 364) ; instead of melted butter, 
add to it catchup, soy, and some of their flavoured vinegars, 
(as elder or tarragon), pepper and fine spice, sweet herbs, 
capers, eschalots, &c. They serve it with most roasted 
meats. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 233 

N.B. Keep your anchovies well covered ; first tie down 
your jar with bladder moistened with vinegar, and then wiped 
dry ; tie leather over that ; when you open a jar, moisten the 
bladder, and it will come off easily ; as soon as you have 
taken out the fish, replace the coverings ; the air soon rusts 
and spoils anchovies. See No. 433, &c. 

Garlic &Mce.— (No. 272.) 

Pound two cloves of garlic with a piece of fresh butter, 
about as big as a nutmeg ; rub it through a double hair-sieve, 
and stir it into half a pint of melted butter, or beef gravy or 
make it with garlic vinegar, Nos. 400, 401, and 402. 

Lemon Sauce. — (No. 273.) 

Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a 
half-crown piece ; divide these into dice, and put them into a 
quarter of a pint of melted butter. No. 256. 

Ohs, — Some cooks mince a bit of the lemon-peel (pared 
very thin) very fine, and add it to the above. 

Caper Sauce. — (No. 274. See also No. 295.) 

To make a quarter of a pint, take a table-spoonful of 
capers, and two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

The present fashion of cutting capers is to mince one-third 
of them very fine, and divide the others in half; put them 
into a quarter of a pint of melted butter, or good thickened 
gi-avy (No. 329) ; stir them the same way as you did the 
melted butter, or it will oil. 

Ohs. — Some boil, and mince fine a few leaves of parsley, 
or chervil, or tarragon, and add these to the sauce ; others 
the juLofe of half a Seville orange, or lemon. 

Mem. — Keep the caper bottle very closely corked, and do 
not use any of the caper liquor : if the capers are not well 
covered with it, they will immediately spoil ; and it is an 
excellent ingredient in hashes, &c. The Dutch use it as a 
fish sauce, mixing it with melted butter. 

Mock Caper Sauce.— {No. 275, or No. 295.) 

Cut some pickled green pease, French beans, gherkins, or 
nasturtiums, into bits the size of capers ; put them into half 
a pint of melted butter, with two tea-spoonfuls of lemon- 
juice, or nice vinegar. 

U2 



234 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. .^^ 

Oyster Sauce.— {No. 278.) . 

Choose plump and juicy natives for this purpose : don't 
take them out of their shell till you put them into the stew- 
pan, see Obs. to No. 181. 

To make good oyster sauce for half a dozen hearty fish- 
eaters, you cannot have less than three or four dozen oysters. 
Save their liquor; strain it, and put it and them into a 
stew-pan : as soon as they boil, and the fish plump, take them 
off the fire, and pour the contents of the stew-pan into a 
sieve over a clean basin ; wash the stew-pan out with hot 
water, and put into it the strained liquor, with about an equal 
quantity of milk, and about two ounces and a half of butter, 
with which you have well rubbed a large table-spoonful of 
flour ; give it a boil up, and pour it through a sieve into a 
basin (that the sauce may be quite smooth), and then back 
again into the saucepan; now shave the oysters, and (if you 
have the honour of making sauce for " a committee of taste," 
take away the gristly part also) put in only the soft part of 
them : if they are very large, cut them in half, and set 
them by the fire to keep hot : *' if they boil after, they 
will become hard." 

If you have not liquor enough, add a little melted butter, 
or cream (see No. 388), or milk beat up with the yelk of an 
egg (this must not be put in till the sauce is done). Some 
barbarous cooks add pepper, or mace, the juice or peel of a 
lemon, horseradish, essence of anchovy, Cayenne, &c. : 
plain sauces are only to taste of the ingredient from which 
they derive their name. 

Obs. — It will very much heighten the flavour of this sauce 
to pound the soft part of half a dozen (unboiled) oysters ; 
rub it through a hair-sieve, and then stir it into the sauce : 
this essence of oyster (and for some palates a few grains 
of Cayenne) is the only addition we recommend. See 
No. 441. 

Preserved Oysters.* — (No. 280.) 

Open the oysters carefully, so as not to cut them except 
in dividing the gristle which attaches the shells ; put them 
into a mortar, and when you have got as many as you can 
conveniently pound at once, add about two drachms of salt 
to a dozen oysters ; pound them, and rub them through the 

* Oysters which come to the New- York market, are too large and fine to be 
mangled according to this receipt. They are generally cooked by being fried or 
stewed. W^hen they are intended to be kept a length of time, they are pickled ia 
vinegar, with spices. A. 



GBAVIES AND SAUCES. 235 

back of a hair-sieve, and put them into a mortar ag-ain, with 
as much flour (which has been previously thoroughly dried) 
as will make them into a paste ; roll it out several times, and, 
lastly, flour it, and roll it out the thickness of a half-crown, 
and divide it into pieces about an inch square ; lay them in a 
Dutch oven, where they will dry so gently as not to get 
burnt : turn them every half hour, and when they begin to 
dry, crumble them ; they will take about four hours to dry ; 
then pound them fine, sift them, and put them into bottles, 
and seal them over. 

N.B. Three dozen of natives required Ih. ounces o^ dried 
flour to make them into a paste, which then weighed 11 
ounces ; when dried and pow^dered, 6i ounces. 

To make half a pint of sauce, put one ounce of butter 
into a stew-pan with three drachms of oyster powder, and 
six table-spoonfuls of milk ; set it on a slow fire ; stir it till 
it boils, and season it with salt. 

This powder, if made with plump, juicy natives, Avill abound 
with the flavour of the fish ; and if closely corked, and kept 
in a dry place, will remain good for some time. 

Obs. — This extract is a welcome succedaneum while 
oysters are out of season, and in such inland parts as seldom 
have any, is a valuable addition to the list of fish sauces : 
it is equally good with boiled fowl, or rump steak, and 
sprinkled on bread and butter makes a very good sandwich, 
and is especially worthy the notice of country housekeepers, 
and as a store sauce for the army and navy. See Anchovy 
Powder, No. 435. 

Shrimp Sauce.— {No. 283.) 

Shell a pint of shrimps ; pick them clean, wash them, and 
put them into half a pint of good melted butter. A pint of - 
unshelled shrimps is about enough for four persons. 

Obs. — Some stew the heads and shells of the shrimps, 
(with or without a blade of bruised mace,) for a quarter of 
an hour, and strain off" the liquor to melt the butter with, 
and add a little lemon-juice, Cayenne, and essence of 
anchovy, or soy, cavice, &c. ; but the flavour of the 
shrimp is so delicate, that it will be overcome by any such 
additions. 

Mem. — If your shrimps are not quite fresh, they will eat 
tough and thready, as other stale fish do. See Obs. to 
No. 140* 



236 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Lobster Sauce.— [No. 284.) 

Choose a fine spawny hen lobster;* be sure it is fresh, so 
get a live one if you can, (one of my culinary predecessors 
says, " let it be heavy and lively,") and boil it as N(i, iT6 ; 
pick out the spawn and the red coral into a mortar, add to it 
half an ounce of butter, pound it quite smooth, and rub it 
through a hair-sieve with the back of a wooden spoon ; cut 
the meat of the lobster into small squares, or pull it to pieces 
with a fork ; put the pounded spawn into as much melted 
butter (No. 256) as you think will do, and stir it tog-ether till 
it is thoroughly mixed ; now put to it the meat of the lobster, 
and warm it on the fire ; take care it does not boil, which 
will spoil its complexion, and its brilliant red colour will 
immediately fade. 

The above is a very easy and excellent manner of making 
this sauce. 

Some use strong beef or veal gravy instead of melted 
butter, adding anchovy, Cayenne, catchup, cavice, lemon- 
juice, or pickle, or wine, &c, 

Obs. — Save a little of the inside red coral spawn, and rub 
it through a sieve (without butter) : it is a very ornamental 
garnish to sprinkle over fish; and if the skin is broken, 
(which will soinetimes happen to the most careful cook, when 
there is a large dinner to dress, and many other things to 
attend to,) you will find it a convenient and elegant veil, to 
conceal your misfortune from the prying eyes of piscivorous 
gourmands. 

N.B. Various methods have been tried to preserve lob- 
sters, see No. 178, and lobster spawn, for a store sauce. 
The live spawn may be kept some time in strong salt and 
water, or in an ice-house. 

The following process might, perhaps, preserve it longer. 
Put it into a saucepan of boiling water, with a large spoonful 
of salt in it, and let it boil quick for five minutes ; then 
drain it on a hair-sieve ; spread it out thin on a plate, and 
set it in a Dutch oven till it is thoroughly dried ; grind it in a 
clean mill, and pack it closely in well-stopped bottles. See 
also Potted Lobsters, No. 178. 

* You must have a hen lobster, on account of the live spawn. Some fishmongers 
have a cruel custom of tearing tliis from the fish before they are boiled. Lift up 
the tail of the lobster, and see that it has not been robbed of its eggs : the goodness 
of your sauce depends upon its having a full share of the spawn in it, to which it 
owes not merely its brilliant red coloiu-, but the finest part of its flavour. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 237 

Sauce for Lobster, ^c,—{No. 285. See also No. 372.) 

Bruise the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs with the back of 
a wooden spoon, or rather pound them in a mortar, with a 
tea-spoonful of water, and the soft inside and the spawn of 
the lobster; rub them quite smooth, with a tea-spoonful" of 
made mustard, two table-spoonfuls of salad oil, and five of 
vinegar ; season it with a very little Cayenne pepper, and 
some salt. 

Obs. — To this, elder or tarragon vinegar (No. 396), or 
anchovy essence (No. 433), is occasionally added. 

Liver and Parsley Sauce, — (No. 287.) or Liver and Lemon 

bauce. 

Wash the liver (it must be perfectly fresh) of a fowl 
or rabbit, and boil it five minutes in five table-spoonfuls 
of water; chop it fine, or pound or bruise it in a small 
quantity of the liquor it was boiled in, and rub it through 
a sieve : wash about one-third the bulk of parsley leaves, 
put them on to boil in a little boiling water, with a tea- 
spoonful of salt in it ; lay it on a hair-sieve to drain, and 
mince it very fine ; mix it with the liver, and put it into a 
quarter pint of melted butter, and warm it up; do not 
let it boil. Or, 

To make Lemon and Liver Sauce, 

Pare off" the rind of a lemon, or of a Seville orange, as 
thin as possible, so as not to cut off any of the white with 
it; now cut off all the white, and cut the lemon into slices, 
about as thick as a couple of half-croMais ; pick out the 
pips, and divide the slices into small squares : add these, and 
a little of the peel minced very fine to the liver, prepared as 
directed above, and put them into the melted butter, and 
waAu them together ; but do not let them boil. 

N.B. The poulterers can always let you have fresh livers, 
if that of the fowl or rabbit is not good, or not large enough 
to make as much sauce as you wish. 

Obs. — Some cooks, instead of pounding, mince the liver 
very fine (with half as much bacon), and leave out the 
parsley; others add the juice of half a lemon, and some of 
the peel grated, or a tea-spoonful of tarragon or Chili vinegar, 
a table-spoonful of white wine, or a little beaten mace, or 
nutmeg, or allspice : if you wish it a little more lively on the 
palate, pound an eschalot, or a few leaves of tarragon or 
basil, with anchovy, or catchup, or Cayenne. 



238 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Liver Sauce for Fish. — (No. 288.) 

Boil the liver of the fish, and pound it in a mortar with a 
little flour ; stir it into some broth, or some of the liquor the 
fish vras boiled in, or melted butter, parsley, and a few grains 
of Cayenne, a little essence of anchovy (No. 433), or soy, 
or catchup (No. 439) ; give it a boil up, and rub it through 
a sieve : you may add a little lemon-juice, or lemon cut 
in dice. 

Celery Sauce, white. — (No. 289.) 

Pick and wash two heads of nice white celery ; cut it into 
pieces about an inch long ; stew it in a pint of water, and a 
tea-spoonful of salt, till the celery is tender ;* roll an ounce 
of butter with a table-spoonful of flour ; add this to half a 
pint of cream, and give it a boil up. 

N.B. See No. 409. 

Celery Sauce Pur^e, for boiled Turkey, Veal, Fowls, ^c, 
(No. 290.) 

Cut small half a dozen heads of nice white celery that is 
quite clean, and two onions sliced ; put in a two-quart stew- 
pan, with a small lump of butter ; sweat them over a slow 
fire till quite tender, then put in two spoonfuls of flour, half 
a pint of water (or beef or veal broth), salt and pepper, and 
a little cream or milk ; boil it a quarter of an hour, and pass 
through a fine hair-sieve with the back of a spoon. 

If you wish for celery sauce when celery is not in season, 
a quarter of a drachm of celery-seed, or a little essence of 
celery (No. 409), will impregnate half a pint of sauce with a 
sufficient portion of the flavour of the vegetable 

See Obs. to No. 214. 

Green or Sorrel Saiice. — (No. 291.) 

Wash and clean a large ponnet of sorrel ; put it into a 
stew-pan that will just hold it, with a bit of butter the size of 
an egg ; cover it close, set it over a slow fire for a quarter of 
an hour, pass the sorrel with the back of a wooden spoon 
through a hair-sieve, season with pepper, salt, and a small 
pinch of powdered sugar, make it hot, and serve up under 

♦ So nnjch depends upon the age of the relery, that we cannot give any precise 
time for this. Yi>ung, fresh-gat heied celery will be done enough in three-quarters 
of an hour ; old will sometimes lake twice as long. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 239 

lamb, veal, sweetbreads, &c. &c. Cayenne, nutmeg-, and 
lemon-juice are sometimes added. 

Tomata, or Love-apple Sauce.— {^o. 292. See also No. 443. ) 

Have twelve or fifteen tomatas, ripe and red ; take off the 
stalk; cut them in half; squeeze them just enough to get all 
the water and seeds out; put them in a stew-pan with a 
capsicum, and two or three table-spoonfuls of beef gravy ; 
set them on a slow stove for an hour, or till properly melted ; 
then rub them through a tamis into a clean stew-pan, with a 
little white pepper and salt, and let them simmer together a 
few minutes. 

[Love-apple Sauce according to Ude. 

Melt in a stew-pan a dozen or two of love-apples (which, 
before putting in the stew-pan, cut in two, and squeeze the 
juice and the seeds out) ; then put two eschalots, one onion, 
with a few bits of ham, a clove, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, a. 
few leaves of mace, and when melted, rub them through a 
tamis. Mix a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole or Spanish 
sauce, and a little salt and pepper, with this puree. Boil it 
for twenty minutes, and serve up. A.] 

Mock Tomata Sauce.— {No. 293.) 

The only difference between this and genuine love-apple 
sauce, is the substituting the pulp of apple for that of tomata, 
colouring it with turmeric, and communicating an acid flavour 
to it by vinegar. 

Eschalot Sauce. — (No. 294.) 

Take four eschalots, and make it in the same manner as 
garlic sauce (No. 272). Or, 

You may make this sauce more extemporaneously by put- 
ting two table-spoonfuls of eschalot wine (No. 403), and a 
sprinkling of pepper and salt, into (almost) half a pint of 
thick melted butter. 

06s. — This is an excellent sauce for chops or steaks ; 
many are very fond of it with roasted or boiled meat, 
poultry, &c. 

Eschalot Sauce for boiled Mutton. — (No. 295.) 

This is a very frequent and satisfactory substitute for 
" caper sauce." 



240 GRAVIES A^D SAUCES. 

Mince four eschalots veiy fine, and put them into a small 
saucepan, with almost half a pint of the liquor the muttoa 
was boiled in : let them boil up for five minutes ; then put 
in a table-spoonful of vinegar, a quarter tea-spoonful of 
pepper, a little salt, and a bit of butter (as big as a walnut) 
rolled in flour; shake together till it boils. See (No. 402) 
Eschalot Wine. 

Obs. — We like a little lemon-peel with eschalot ; the haut 
gout of the latter is much ameliorated by the delicate aroma 
of the former. 

Some cooks add a little finely-chopped parsley. 

Young Onion Sauce. — (No. 296.) 

Peel a pint of button onions, and put them in water till 
you want to put them on to boil ; put them into a stew-pan, 
with a quart of cold water; let them boil till tender; they 
will take (according- to their size and ag-e) from half an hour 
to an hour. You may put them into half a pint of No. 307. 
See also No. 137. 

Onion Sauce. — (No. 297.) 

Those who like the full flavour of onions only cut off the 
strings and tops (without peeling off any of the skins), put 
them into salt and water, and let them lie an hour ; then 
wash them, put them into a kettle with plenty of water, 
and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, pass 
them through a colander, and mix a little melted butter with 
them. 

N.B. Some mix the pulp of apples, or turnips, with the 
onions others add mustard to them. 

White Onion Sauce.— {No. 298.) 

The following is a more mild and delicate* preparation : 
Take half a dozen of the largest and whitest onions (the 
Spanish are the mildest, but these can only be had from 
August to December) ; peel them and cut them in half, and 
lay them in a pan of spring-water for a quarter of an hour, 
and then boil for a quarter of an hour ; and then, if you wish 
them to taste very mild, pour off that water, and cover them 
with fresh boiling water, and let them boil till they are tender, 
which will sometimes take three-quarters of an hour longer ; 

* If you wis^i to have tliem very mild, cut them in quarters, boil them for five 
minutes in plenty of water, and tlien drain them, and cook them in fresh water/ 



GRAVIES A>D SAUCES. 241 

drain them well on a hair-sieve ; lay them on the chopping- 
board, and chop and bruise them ; put them into a clean sauce- 
pan, with some butt^^r and flour, half a tea-spoonful of salt, 
and some cream, or good milk ; stir it till it boils ; then rub 
the whole through a tamis, or sieve, adding cream or milk, to 
make it the consistence you wish. 

Obs. — This is the usual sauce for boiled rabbits, mut- 
ton, or tripe. There must be plenty of it ; the usual 
expression signifies as much, for we say, smother them 
with it. 

Brown Onion Sauces, or Onion Gravy. — (No. 299.) 

Peel and slice the onions (some put in an equal quantity 
of cucumber or celery) into a quart stew-pan, with an ounce 
of butter ; set it on a slow fire, and turn the onion about till 
it is very lightly browned; now gradually stir in half an 
ounce of flour ; add a little broth, and a little pepper and salt ; 
boil up for a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful of claret, or 
port wine, and same of mushroom catchup, (you may sharpen 
it with a little lemon-juice or vinegar,) and rub it through a 
tamis or fine sieve. 

Curry powder (No. 348) will convert this into excellent 
curry sauce. 

N.B. If this sauce is for steaks, shred an ounce of onions, 
fry them a nice brown, and put them to the sauce you have 
rubbed through a tamis ; or some very small, round, young 
silver button onions (see No. 296), peeled and boiled tender, 
and put in whole when your sauce is done, will be an ac- 
ceptable addition. 

06s. — If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, and 
see No. 252 ; just before you give it the last boil up, add to it 
another table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, or the same 
quantity of port wine or good ale. 

The flavour of this sauce may be varied by adding tarragon 
or burnet vinegar (Nos. 396 and 399). 

Sage and Onion, or Goose-stuffing Sauce. — (No. 300.) 

Chop very fine an ounce of onion and half an ounce of 
green sage leaves ; put them into a stew-pan with four spoon- 
fuls of water; simmer gently for ten minutes ; then put in a 
tea-spoonful of pepper and salt, and one ounce of fine bread- 
crumbs ; mix well together ; then pour to it a quarter of a 
pint of (broth, or gravy, or) melted butter, stir well together, 
and simmer it a few minutes longer. 

X 



242 GRAVIES AKD SAUCKE?. 

Obs. This is a very relishing sauce for roast pork, poultry, 
geese, or ducks ; or green pease on maigre days. 
See also Bonne Bouche for the above, No, 341. 

Green Mint Sauce.— {No. 303.) 

Wash half a handful of nice, young, fresh-gathered green 
mint (to this some add one-third the quantity of parsley) ; 
pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, and 
put them into a sauce-boat, with a tea-spoonful of moist 
sugar, and four table-spoonfuls of vinegar. 

Obs. — This is the usual accompaniment to hot lamb ; and 
an equally agreeable relish with cold lamb. 

If green mint cannot be procured, this sauce may be made 
with mint vinegar (No. 398). 

Jpple Sauce.— {No. 304.) 

Pare and core three good-sized baking apples ; put them 
into a well-tinned pint saucepan, with two table-spoon fids 
of cold water ; cover the saucepan close, and set it on a 
trivet over a slow fire a couple of hours before dinner (some 
apples will take a long time stewing, others will be ready 
in a quarter of an hour) : when the apples are done enough, 
pour off the water, let them stand a few minutes to get 
dry ; then beat them up with a fork, with a bit of butter 
about as big as a nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of powdered 
sugar. 

N.B. Some add lemon-peel, grated, or minced fine, or boil 
a bit with the apples. Some are fond of apple sauce with 
cold pork : ask those you serve if they desire it. 

Mushroom Sauce. — (No. 305.) 

Pick and peel half a pint of mushrooms (the smaller the 
better) ; wash them very clean, and put them into a sauce- 
pan, with half a pint of veal gravy or milk, a littla pepper 
and salt, and an ounce of butter rubbed with a table-spoon- 
ful of flour ; stir them together, and set them over a gentle 
fire, to stew slowl}^ till tender ; skim and strain it. 

06s. — It will be a great improvement to this, and the 
two following sauces, to add to them the juice of half a 
dozen mushrooms, prepared the day before, by sprinkling 
them with salt, the same as when you make catchup ; or 
add a large spoonful of good double mushroom catchup 
(No. 439). 

See Quintessence of Mushrooms, No. 440. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 243 

N.B. Much as we love the flavour of mushrooms, we must 
enter our protest against their being- eaten in substance, when 
the morbid effects they produce too often prove them worthy 
of the appellations Seneca gave them, " voluptuous poison," 
" lethal luxury," &c. ; and we caution those who cannot re- 
frain from indulging their palate with the seducing relish of 
this deceitful fungus, to masticate it diligently. 

We do not believe that mushrooms are nutritive ; every one 
knows they are often dangerously indigestible ; therefore the 
rational epicure will be content with extracting the flavour 
from them, which is obtained in the utmost perfection by the 
process directed in No. 439. 

Mushroom Sauce, brown. — (No. 306.) 

Put the mushrooms into half a pint of beef gravy (No. 
186, or No. 329) ; thicken with flour and butter, and proceed 
as above. 

Mushroom Sauce, extempore. — (No. 307.) 

Proceed as directed in No. 256 to melt butter, only, instead 
of two table-spoonfuls of milk, put in two of mushroom 
catchup (No. 439 or No. 440) ; or add it to thickened broth, 
gravy, or mock turtle soup, &c. or put in No. 296. 

Obs. This is a welcome relish with fish, poultry, or chops 
and steaks, &c. A couple of quarts of good catchup (No. 
439,) will make more good sauce than ten times its cost of 
meat, &c. 

Walnut catchup will give you another variety ; and Ball's 
cavice, which is excellent. 

Poor Man's Sauce.— {No. 310.) 

Pick a handful of parsley leaves from the stalks, mince 
thern very fine, strew over a little salt ; shred fine half a 
dozen young green onions, add these to the parsley, and put 
them into a sauce-boat, with three table-spoonfuls of oil, and 
five of vinegar ; add some groimd black pepper and salt ; stir 
together and send it up. 

Pickled r'rench beans or gherkins, cut fine, may be added, 
or a little grated horseradish. 

Obs. — This sauce is in much esteem in France, where 
people of taste, weary of rich dishes, to obtain the charm of 
variety, occasionally order the fare of the peasant. 



244 GKAVIES AND SAUCES. 

The Spaniard's Garlic Gravy.— {No. 311. See also No. 272.) 

Slice a pound and a half of veal or beef, pepper and salt 
it, lay it in a stew-pan with a couple of carrots split, and foiii 
cloves of g-arlic sliced, a quarter pound of sliced ham, and a 
larg-e spoonful of water ; set the stew-pan over a gentle fire, 
and watch when the meat begins to stick to the pan ; when it 
does, turn it, and let it be very w^ell browned (but take care 
it is not at all burned) ; then dredge it with flour, and pour 
in a quart of broth, a bunch of sweet herbs, a couple of cloves 
bruised, and slice in a lemon; set it on again, and let it sim- 
mer gently for an hour and a half longer ; then take off the 
fat, and strain the gravy from the ingredients, by pouring it 
through a napkin, straining, and pressing it very hard. 

Obs. — This, it is said, was the secret of the old Spaniard, 
who kept the house called by that name on Hampstead 
Heath. 

Those who love garlic, will find it an extremely rich 
relish. 



Mr. Michael Kellyh* Sauce for boiled Tripe, Calf-head, or 
Cow-heel.— {No. 311*.) 

Garlic vinegar, a table-spoonful; of mustard, brown sugar, 
and black pepper, a tea-spoonful each ; stirred into half a pint 
of oiled melted butter. 

Mr. Kelly'' s Sauce piquante. 

Pound a table-spoonful of capers, and one of minced 
parsley, as fine as possible ; then add the yelks of three 
hard eggs, rub them well together with a table-spoonful of 
mustard ; bone six anchovies, and pound them, rub them 
through a hair-sieve, and mix with two table-spoonfuls of 
oil, one of vinegar, one of eschalot ditto, and a few grains 
of Cayenne pepper ; rub all these well together in a mortar, 
till thoroughly incorporated ; then stir them into half a pint 
of good gravy, or melted butter, and put the whole through 
a sieve. 

Fried Parsley. — (No. 317.) 

Let it be nicely picked and washed, then put into a cloth, 
and swung backwards and forwards till it is perfectly dry ; 

* Compoeer and Director of the Music of the Theatre Royal Drury Lane, and 
the Italian Opexa. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 245 

put it into a pan of hot fat, fry it quick, and have a slice 
ready to take it out the moment it is crisp (in another moment 
it will be spoiled) ; put it on a sieve, or coarse cloth, before 
the fire to drain. 

Crisp Parsley. — (No. 318.) 

Pick and wash young- parsley, shake it in a dry cloth to 
drain the water from it ; spread it on a sheet of clean paper 
in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn it frequently until 
it is quite crisp. This is a much more easy way of preparing* 
it than ftying it, which is not seldom ill done. 

Obs. A veiy pretty garnish for lamb chops, fish, &c. 

Fried Bread Sippets. — (No. 319.) 

Cut a slice of bread about a quarter of an inch thick ; 
divide it Math a sharp knife into pieces two inches square ; 
shape these into triangles or crosses ; put some very clean 
fat into an iron frying-pan : when it is hot, put in the sippets, 
and fry them a delicate light brown ; take them up with a 
fish slice, and drain them well from fat, turning them occa- 
sionally ; this Avill take a quarter of an hour. Keep the pan 
at such a distance from the fire that the fat may be hot enough 
to brown without burning the bread ; this is a requisite pre- 
caution in flying delicate thin things. 

Obs. These are a pretty garnish, and very welcome ac- 
companiment and improvement to the finest made dishes : 
they may also be sent up with pease and other soups ; but 
M^hen intended for soups, the bread must be cut into bits, 
about half an inch square. 

N.B. If these are not done very delicately clean and dry, 
they are mieatable. 

Fried Bread-crumbs. — (No. 320.) 

Rub bread (which has been baked two days) through a wire 
sieve, or colander; or you may rub them in a cloth till they 
are as fine as if they had been grated and sifted; put them into 
a stew-pan, Avith a couple of ounces of butter ; place it over a 
moderate fire, and stir them about with a wooden spoon till 
they are the colour of a guinea ; spread them on a sieve, and 
let them stand ten minutes to drain, turning them frequently. 

Obs. Fried crumbs are sent up with roasted sweetbreads, 
or larks, pheasants, partridges, woodcocks, and grouse, or 
moor game ; especially if they have been kept long enough. 

X2 



246 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Bread Sauce.— {No. 321.) 

Put a small tea-cupful of bread-crumbs into a stew-pan, 
pour on it as much milk as it will soak up, and a little more ; 
or, instead of the milk, take the g-iblets, head, neck, and legs, 
&c. of the poultry, &c. and stew them, and moisten the 
bread Mi th this liquor; put it on the fire with a middling- 
sized onion, and a dozen berries of pepper or allspice, or a 
little mace ; let it boil, then stir it well, and let it simmer till 
it is quite stiff, and then put to it about two table-spoonfuls 
of cream or melted butter, or a little good broth ; take out 
the onion and pepper, and it is ready. 

Obs. This is an excellent accompaniment to game and 
poultry, &c., and a good vehicle for receiving various flavours 
from the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). 

Rice Sauce.— {No. 321*.) 

Steep a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk, with 
onion, pepper, &c. as in the last receipt ; Avhen the rice is 
quite tender (take out the spice), rub it through a sieve into 
a clean stew-pan : if too thick, put a little milk or cream to it. 

Obs. This is a very delicate white sauce ; and at elegant 
tables is frequently served instead of bread sauce. 

Browning, — (No. 322.) 

Is a convenient article to colour those soups or sauces of 
which it is supposed their deep brown complexion denotes 
the strength and savouriness of the composition. 

Burned sugar is also a favourite ingredient with the 
brewers, who use it under the name of " essentia bina" to 
colour their beer: it is also employed by the brandy-makers, 
in considerable quantity, to colour brandy ; to which, besides 
enriching its complexion, it gives that sweetish taste, and 
fulness in the mouth, which custom has taught brandy 
drinkers to admire, and prefer to the finest Cognac in its 
genuine state. 

When employed for culinary purposes, this is sometimes 
made with strong gravy, or walnut catchup. Those who 
like a gout of acid may add a little walnut pickle. 

It will hardly be told from what is commonly called 
" genuine Japanese soy"* (for which it is a very good substi- 
tute). Burned treacle or sugar, the peels of walnut, Cayenne 

* " By the best accounts I can find, soy is a preparation from the seeds of a spe* 
cies of the Dolichos, prepared by a fermentation of the farina of this seed in a strong 
lixivium of common salt." — Cullun's Jtfat. Med. vol. i. p. 430. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 247 

pepper, or capsicums, or Chilies, vinegar, garlic, and pickled 
herrings (especially the Dutch), Sardinias, or sprats, appear 
to be the bases of almost all the sauces which now (to use the 
maker's phrase) stand unrivalled. 

Although indefatigable research and experiment have put 
us in possession of these compositions, it would not be quite 
fair to enrich the cook at the expense of the oilman, &c. ; we 
hope we have said enough on these subjects to satisfy " the 
rational epicure." 

Put half a pound of pounded lump-sugar, and a table- 
spoonful of water, into a clean iron saucepan, set it over a 
slow fire, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon till it 
becomes a bright brown colour, and begins to smoke ; then 
add to it an ounce of salt, and dilute it by degrees M'ith water, 
till it is the thickness of soy ; let it boil, take off the scum, 
and strain the liquor into bottles, which must be well stopped: 
if you have not any of this by you, and you wish to darken 
the colour of your sauces, pound a tea-spoonfid of lump- 
sugar, and put it into an iron spoon, with as much water as 
will dissolve it ; hold it over a quick fire till it becomes of a 
veiy dark brown colour; mix it with the soup, &c. while it 
is hot. 

Obs. Most of the preparations under this title are a medley 
of burned butter, spices, catchup, wine, &c. We recommend 
the rational epicure to be content with the natural colour of 
soups and sauces, which, to a well-educated palate, are much 
more agreeable, without any of these empyreumatic addi- 
tions; however they may please the eye, they plague the 
stomach most grievously; so "open your mouth and shut 
your eyes." 

For the sake of producing a pretty colour, "cheese," 
« Cayemie" (No. 404), " essence of anchovy" (No. 433), &c. 
are frequently adulterated with a colouring matter contain- 
ing red lead ! ! See Accum on the Adulteration of Foody 
2d edit. 12mo. 1820. 

A scientific " homme de louche de France''' observes : " The 
generality of cooks calcine bones, till they are as black as a 
coal, and throw them hissing hot into the stew-pan, to give a 
brown colour to their broths. These ingredients, under the 
appearance of a nourishing gravy, envelope our food with sti- 
mulating acid and corrosive poison. 

" Roux, or thickening (No. 257), if not made very carefully, 
produces exactly the same effect ; and the juices of beef or 
veal, burned over a hot fire, to give a rich colour to soup or 
sauces, grievously offend tlie stomach, and create the most 
distressing indigestions. 



248 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

" The judicious cook will refuse the help of these incen- 
diary articles, which ignorance or quackery only employ; 
not only at the expense of the credit of the cook, but the 
health of her employers." 

N.B. The best browning is good home-made glaze (No. 
252), mushroom catchup (No. 439), or claret, or port wine. 
See also No. 257 ; or cut meat into slices, and broil them 
brown, and then stew them. 

Gravy for roast Meat.— [No. 326.) 

Most joints will afford sufficient trimmings, &c. to make 
half a pint of plain gravy, which you may colour with a few 
drops of No. 322 : for those that do not, about half an hour 
before you think the meat will be done, mix a salt-spoonful 
of salt, with a full quarter pint of boiling water ; drop this by 
degrees on the brown parts of the joint ; set a dish under to 
catch it (the meat will soon brown again) ; set it by ; as it 
cools, the fat will float on the surface ; when the meat is 
ready, carefully remove the fat, and warm up the gravy, and 
pour it into the dish. 

The common method is, when the meat is in the dish you 
intend to send it up in, to mix half a tea-spoonful of salt in a 
quarter pint of boiling water, and to drop some of this over 
the corners and underside of the meat, and to pour the rest 
through the hole the spit came out of: some pierce the infe- 
rior parts of the joints with a sharp skewer. 

The following receipt was given us by a very good cook : 
You may make good browning for roast meat and poultry, 
by saving the brown bits of roast meat or broiled ; cut them 
small, put them into a basin, cover them with boiling water, 
and put them away till next day ; then put it into a sauce- " 
pan, let it boil two or three minutes, strain it through a sieve 
into a basin, and put it away for use. When you want gravy 
for roast meat, put two table-spoonfuls into half a pint of 
boiling water with a little salt : if for roasted veal, put three 
table-spoonfuls into half a pint of thin melted butter. 

N.B. The gravy which comes down in the dish, the cook 
(if she is a good housewife) will preserve to enrich hashes 
or little made dishes, &c. 

06*. Some culinary professors, who think nothing can 
be excellent that is not extravagant, call this " Scots' gravy;" 
not, I believe, intending it, as it certainly is, a compliment to 
the laudable and rational frugality of that intelligent and 
sober-minded people. 

N.B. This gravy should be brought to table in a savJO 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 249 

boat ; presence the intrinsic gravy which flows from the meat 
in the Argyll. 

Gravy for boiled Meat, — (No. 327.) 

May be made with parings and trimmings ; or pour from a 
quarter to half a pint of the liquor in which the meat was 
boiled, into the dish with it, and pierce the inferior part of 
the joint with a sharp skewer. 

Wbv) wow Sauce for stewed or houilli Beef. — (No. 328.) 

Chop some parsley-leaves very fine ; quarter two or 
three pickled cucumbers, or walnuts, and divide them into 
small squares, and set them by ready : put into a saucepan a 
bit of butter as big as an egg ; when it is melted, stir to it a 
table-spoonful of fine flour, and about half a pint of the broth 
in which the beef was boiled ; add a table-spoonful of vine- 
gar, the like quantity of mushroom catchup, or port v.ine, or 
both, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard; let it simmer 
together till it is as thick as you wish it ; put in the parsley 
and pickles to get warm, and pour it over the beef ; or rather 
send it up in a sauce-tureen. 

Ohs. If you think the above not sufficiently j9i5Man«!e, add 
to it some capers, or a minced eschalot, or one or two tea- 
spoonfuls of eschalot wine (No. 402), or essence of anchovy, 
or basil (No. 397), elder, or tarragon (No. 396), or horse- 
radish (No. 399*), or burnet vinegar ; or strew over the meat 
carrots and turnips cut into dice, minced capers, walnuts, 
red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, or French beans, &c. 

Beef-gravy Sauce — (No. 329), or Brown Sauce for Ragout, 
Game, Poultry, Fish, '^c. 

If you want gravy immediately, see No. 307, or No. 252. 
If you have time enough, furnish a thick and well-tinned 
stew-pan with a thin slice of fat ham or bacon, or an ounce 
of butter, and a middling-sized onion ; on this lay a pound of 
nice, juicy gravy beef,(as the object in making gravy is to 
extract the nutritious succulence of the meat, it must be 
beaten to comminute the containing vessels, and scored to 
augment the surface to the action of the water) ; cover the 
stew-pan, and set it on a slow fire ; when the meat begins to 
brown, turn it about, and let it get slightly browned (but take 
care it is not at all burned) : then pour in a pint and a half 
of boiling water ; set the pan on the fire ; when it boils, care- 
fully catch the scum, and then put in a crust of bread toasted 



250 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

brown (don't burn it), a sprig of winter savoury, or lemon- 
thyme and parsley, a roll of thin-cut lemon-peel, a dozen ber- 
ries of allspice, and a dozen of black pepper ; cover the stew- 
pan close, let it stew very gently for about two hours, then 
strain it through a sieve into a basin. i 

If you wish to thicken it, set a clean stew-pan over a slow 
fire, with about an ounce of butter in it ; when it is melted, 
dredge to it (by degrees) as much flour as will dry it up, 
stirring them well together ; when thoroughly mixed, pour 
in a little of the gravy ; stir it w^ell together, and add the 
remainder by degrees ; set it over the fire, let it simmer 
gently for fifteen or twenty minutes longer, and skim off" the 
fat, &c. as it rises ; when it is about as thick as cream, 
squeeze it through a tamis, or fine sieve, and you will have a 
fine, rich brown sauce, at a very moderate expense, and with- 
out much trouble. i 

Obs. If you wish to make it still more relishing, if it is 
for poultry, you may pound the liver with a bit of butter, rub 
it through a sieve, and stir it into the sauce when you put in 
the thickening, j 

For a ragout or game, add at the same time a table-spoon- 
ful of mushroom catchup, or No. 343,* or No. 429, or a few 
drops of 422, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of the rind 
pared thin, a table-spoonful of port, or other wine (claret is 
best), and a few grains of Cayenne pepper ; or use double 
the quantity of meat ; or add a bit of glaze, or portable soup 
(No. 252), to it. 1 

You may vary the flavour, by sometimes adding a little 
basil, or burnet wine (No. 397), tarragon vinegar (No. 396), 
or a wine-glass of quintessence of mushrooms (No. 450). 

See the Magazine of Taste (No. 462). 

N.B. This is an excellent gravy; and at a large dinner, a' 
pint of it should be placed at each end of the table ; you may 
make it equal to the most costly consomm^ of the Parisian 
kitchen. i 

Those families who are frequently in want of gravy, 
sauces, &c. (without plenty of which no cook can support the 
credit of her kitchen), should keep a stock of portable soup 
or glaze (No. 252) : this will make gravy immediately. 

* One of " les bonnes hommes de bouche de Fravce" orders the following addition 
for game gravy : — " For a pint, par-roast a partridge or a pigeon ; cut off the meat 
of it, pound it in a mortar, and put it into the stew-pan when you thicken the sauce." 
We do not recommend either soup oi sauce to be tkickmied, because it requires (to 
give it the same quiciiness on the palate it had before it was thickened) double the > 
quantity of piquante materials ; which are thus smuggled down the red lane, with- 
ou» affording any amusement to the mouth, and at the risk of highly offending the 
stomach. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 251 

Game Gravy.— {No. 337.) 
See Obs. to No. 329. 

Orange-gravy Sauce, for wild Ducks, Woodcocks, Snipes, 
Widgeon, and Teal, <S-c. — (No. 338.) 

Set on a saucepan with half a pint of veal gravy (No. 192), 
add to it half a dozen leaves of basil, a small onion, and a 
roll of orange or lemon-peel, and let it boil up for a few 
minutes, and strain it off. Put to the clear gravy the juice 
of a Seville orange, or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, the 
same of pepper, and a glass of red wine ; send it up hot. 
Eschalot and Cayenne may be added. 

Obs. — This is an excellent sauce for all kinds of wild 
water-fowl. 

The common way of gashing the breast and squeezing in 
an orange, cools and hardens the flesh, and compels every 
one to eat duck that way: some people like wild fowl very 
little done, and without any sauce. 

Gravies should always be sent up in a covered boat : they 
keep hot longer ; and it leaves it to the choice of the com- 
pany to partake of them or not. 

Bonne Bouche for Goose, Duck, or roast Pork. — (No. 341.) 

Mix a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a salt-spoonful of salt, 
and a few grains of Cayenne, in a large wine-glassful of 
claret or port wine ;* pour it into the goose by a slit in the 
apron just before serving up ;t or, as all the company may 
not like it, stir it into a quarter of a pint of thick melted 
butter, or thickened gravy, and send it up in a boat. See 
also Sage and Onion Sauce, No. 300. Or, 

A favourite relish for roast pork or geese, &c. is, two 
ounces of leaves of green sage, an ounce of fresh lemon-peel 
pared thin, same of salt, minced eschalot, and half a drachm 
of Cayenne pepper, ditto of citric acid, steeped for a fortnight 
in a pint of claret ; shake it up well every day ; let it stand a 
day to settle, and decant the clear liquor ; bottle it, and cork 
it close ; a table-spoonful or more in a quarter pint of gravy, 
or melted butter. 

♦ To this some add a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup (No. 439), and instead 
of the salt-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of essence of anchovy (No. 433). If the 
above articles are rubbed together in a mortar, and put into a close-stopped bottle, 
they will keep for some time. 

t Thus far the above is from Dr. Hpnter's " Culi7ia" who says it is a secret 
worth knowing : we agree with him, and so tell it here, with a little addition, whlcll 
we think renders it a still more gratifying communication. 



252 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

Robert Sauce for roast Pork, or Geese, ^c. — (No. 342.) 

Put an ounce of butter into a pint stew-pan : when it is 
melted, add to it half an ounce of onion minced very fine ; 
turn it with a wooden spoon till it takes a lig-ht brown 
colour; then stir in a table-spoonful of flour, a table-spoonful 
of mushroom catchup (with or without the like quantity of 
port wine), half a pint of broth or water, and a quarter of a 
tea-spoonful of pepper, the same of salt ; give them a boil ; 
then add a tea-spoonful of mustard, and the juice of half a 
lemon, or one or two tea-spoonfuls of vinegar or basil (No. 
397), or tarragon (No. 396), or burnet vinegar (No. 399). 

Obs. — The French call this "Sauce Robert" (from the 
name of the cook who invented it), and are very fond of it 
with many things, which Mary Smith, in the " Complete 
Housekeeper,''^ 8vo. 1772, p. 105, translates roe-boat-sauce. 
See Obs. to No. 529. 

Turtle Sauce.— [No. 343.) 

Put into your stew-pan a pint of beef gravy thickened (No. 
329) ; add to this some of the following — essence of turtle, 
(No. 343*), or a wine-glassful of Madeira, the juice and peel 
of half a lemon, a few leaves of basil,* an eschalot quartered, 
a few grains of Cayenne pepper, or curry powder, and a little 
essence of anchovy ; let them simmer together for five mi- 
nutes, and strain through a tamis : you may introduce a dozen 
turtle forcemeat balls. See receipt, No. 380, &c. 

Obs. — This is the sauce for boiled or hashed calf's head, 
stewed veal, or any dish you dress turtle fashion. 

The far-fetched and dear-bought turtle owes its high rank 
on the list of savoury bonne bouches to the relishing and 
piquante sauce that is made for it ; without, it would be as 
msipid as any other fish is without sauce. See Obs. to No. 493. 

Essence of Turtle.~{No. 343*.) 

Essence of anchovy (No. 433), one wine-glassful. 

Eschalot wine (No. 402), one and a half ditto. 

Basil wme (No. 397), four ditto. 

Mushroom catchup (No. 439), two ditto. 

Concrete lemon acid, one drachm, or some artificial lemon- 
juice (No. 407*). 

Lemon-peel, very thinly pared, three-quarters of an 
ounce. 

* See BasU Wine (No. 397). 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 263 

Curry powder (No. 455), a quarter of an ounce 

Steep for a week, to get the flavour of the lemon-peel, &e. 

Obs. — This is very convenient to extemporaneously turtlefy 

soup, sauce, or potted meats, ragouts, savoury patties, pies, 

&c. &c. 

Wine Sauce for Venison or Hare. — (No. 344.) 

A quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, the same quantity 
of plain, miflavoured mutton gravy (No. 347), and a table- 
^px)onful of currant jelly : let it just boil up, and send it to 
table in a sauce-boat. 

Sharp Sauce for Venison. — (No. 345.) 

Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned saucepan, 
half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of 
a pound of loaf-sugar pounded : set it over the fire, and let 
it simmer gently ; skim it carefully ; pour it through a tamis 
or fine sieve, and send it up in a basin. 

06s. — Some people like this better than the sweet wine 
sauces. 

Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare. — (No. 346.) 

Put some currant-jelly into a stew-pan ; when it is melted, 
pour it into a sauce-boat. 

N.B. Many send it to table without melting. To make 
currant-jelly, see No. 479*. 

This is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt, 
when the palate protests against animal food unless its 
flavour be masked. Currant-jelly is a good accompaniment 
(0 roasted or hashed meats. 



Mutton Gravy for Venison or Hare. — (No. 347.) 

The best gravy for venison is that made with the trimmings 
of the joint : if this is all used, and you have no undressed 
venison, cut a scrag of mutton in pieces ; broil it a little 
brown ; then put it into a clean stew-pan, with a quart of 
boiling water ; cover it close, and let it simmer gently for an 
hour : now uncover the stew-pan, and let it reduce to three- 
quarters of a pint ; pour it through a hair-sieve ; take the 
fat off, and send it up in a boat. It is only to be seasoned 
with a little salt, that it may not overpower the natural 
flavour of the meat. You may colour it with a very little 
of No. 322. 

Y 



254 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

N.B. Some prefer the unseasoned beef gravy, No. 186, 
which you may make in five minutes with No. 252. 

The queen's gravy of mutton, as made by her Majesty's 
'■^ Escuyer de Cuisine,'''' Monsieur La Montague. "Roast a 
juicy leg of mutton three-quarters ; then gash it in several 
places, and press out the juice by a screw-press." — From 
Sir Kenelm Digby's Cookery, 18mo. London, 1669. 

Curry Sauce, — (No. 348.) 

Is made by stirring a sufficient quantity of curry stuff, 
(No. 455) into gravy or melted butter, or onion sauce (Nos. 
297, 298), or onion gravy (No. 299, or No. 339). 

The compositions of curry powder, and the palates of 
those who eat it, vary so much, that we cannot recom- 
mend any specific quantity. The cook must add it by 
degrees, tasting as she proceeds, and take care not to put in 
too much. 

06s. — The curry powder (No. 455) approximates more 
nearly to the best Indian curry stuff, and is an agreeable and 
well-blended mixture of this class of aromatics. 

N.B. To dress curries, see No. 497. 

Essence of Ham» — (No. 351.) 

Essence of ham and of beef may be purchased at the 
eating-houses which cut up those joints ; the former for half 
a crown or three shillings a quart : it is therefore a most 
economical relish for made-dishes, and to give piquance to 
sauces, &c. 

Grill Sauce.— {No. 355.) 

To half a pint of gravy (No. 329), add an ounce of fresh 
butter, and a table-spoonful of flour, previously well rubbed 
together, the same of mushroom or walnut catchup, two tea- 
spoonfuls of lemon-juice, one of made mustard, one of 
minced capers, half a one of black pepper, a quarter of a 
rind of a lemon grated very thin, a tea-spoonful of essence 
of anchovies, and a little eschalot wine (No. 402), or a very 
small piece of minced eschalot, and a little Chili vinegar 
(No. 405), or a few grains of Cayenne ; simmer together for 
a few minutes ; pour a little of it over the grill, and send 
up the rest in a sauce-tureen. For anchovy toasts. No. 573, 
or No. 538. Or, 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 255 

Sauce a la Tartare. 

Pound in a mortar three hard yelks of eggs ; put them' 
into a basin, and add half a table-spoonful of made mus- 
tard, and a little pepper and salt ; pour to it by degrees, 
stirring- it fast all the while, about two wine-glassfuls of 
salad oil ; stir it together till it comes to a good thickness. 

N.B. A little tarragon or chervil minced very fine, and a 
little vinegar, may be added; or some of the ingredients 
enumerated in No. 372. 

Ohs. — This from the French artist who wrote the receipt 
for dressing a turtle. 

Mem. — These arepiquante relishes for anchovy toasts (No. 
573, or No. 538) ; for broiled devils, &c. " Veritable sauce 
d'enfer,^'' see No. 538 ; and a refreshing excitement for those 
idle palates, who are as incessantly mumbling out " piquante, 
piquaiite," as parrots do " pretty Poll, pretty Poll." 

" For palates grown callous almost to disease, 
Who peppers the highest is surest to please." 

Goldsmith. 

Sauce for Steaks, or Chops, Cutlets, 4-c. — (No. 356. See also 

No. 331.) 

Take your chops out of the frying-pan ; for a pound of 
meat keep a table-spoonful of the fat in the pan, or put in 
about an ounce of butter ; put to it as much flour as will 
make it a paste ; rub it well together over the fire till they 
are a little brown ; then add as much boiling water as will 
reduce it to the thickness of good cream, and a table-spoonful 
of mushroom or walnut catchup, or pickle, or browning (No. 
322, or No. 449) ; let it boil together a few minutes, and pour 
it through a sieve to the steaks, &c. 

Obs. — To the above is sometimes added a sliced onion, 
or a minced eschalot, with a table- spoonful of port wine, 
or a little eschalot wine (Nos. 402, 423, or 135). Garnish 
with finely-scraped horseradish, or pickled walnuts, gherkins, 
&c. Some beef-eaters like chopped eschalots in one saucer, 
and horseradish grated in vinegar, in another. Broiled 
mushrooms are favourite relishes to beef-steaks. 

Sauce Piquante for cold Meat, Game, Poultry, Fish, ^'C. or 
Salads. — (No. 359. See also No. 372, and Cucumber 
Vinegar, Nos. 399 and 453.) > 

Pound in a mortar the yelks of two eggs that have been 
boiled hard (No. 547), with a mustard-spoonful of made 



256 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

mustard, and a little pepper and salt; add two table-spoonfuls 
of salad oil ; mix well, and then add three table-spoonfuls 
of vinegar ; rub it up well till it is quite smooth, and pass it 
through a tamis or sieve. 

Obs. — To the above, some add an anchovy, or a table- 
spoonful of mushroom catchup, or walnut pickle, some finely- 
chopped parsley, grated horseradish, or young onions minced, 
or burnet (No. 399), horseradish (No. 399*, or No. 402), or 
tarragon, or elder vinegar (No. 396), &c., and Cayenne or 
minced pickles, capers, &c. This is zpiquante relish for 
lobsters, crabs, cold fish, &c. 

Sauce for Hashes of Mutton or Beef — (No. 360. See also 
Nos. 451, 485, and to make Plain Hash, No. 486.) 

Unless you are quite sure you perfectly understand the 
palate of those you are working for, show those who are to 
eat the hash this receipt, and beg of them to direct you how 
they wish it seasoned. 

Half the number of the ingredients enumerated will be 
more than enough : but as it is a receipt so often wanted we 
have given variety. See also No. 486. 

To prepare the meat, see No. 484. 

Chop the bones and fragments of the joint, &c., and 
put them into a stew-pan ; cover them with boiling 
water, six berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, a 
small bundle of parsley, half a head of celery cut in pieces, 
and a small sprig of savoury, or lemon-thyme, or sweet 
marjoram; cover up, and let it simmer gently for half 
an hour. 

Slice half an ounce of onion, and put it into a stew-pan 
with an ounce of butter ; fry it over a sharp fire for about a 
couple of minutes, till it takes a little colour ; then stir in 
as much flour as will make it a stiff paste, and by degrees 
mix with it the gravy you have made from the bones, &c. ; 
let it boil very gently for about a quarter of an hour, till it 
is the consistence of cream ; strain it through a tamis or sieve 
into a basin ; put it back into the stew-pan : to season it, 
see No. 451, or cut in a few pickled onions, or walnuts, 
or a couple of gherkins, and a table-spoonful of mushroom 
catchup, or Avalnut or other pickle liquor; or some capers, 
and caper liquor ; or a table-spoonful of ale ; or a little 
eschalot, or tarragon vinegar ; cover the bottom of the dish 
with sippets of bread (that they may become savoury reser- 
voirs of gravy), which some toast and cut into triangles. 
You may garnish it with fried bread sippets (No. 319). 



V 



GRAVIES AXD SAUCES. 257 

NB. To hash meat in perfection, it should be laid in 
this gravy only just long enough to get properly warm 
through. 

Obs. If any of the gravy that was sent up with, or ran 
from the joint when it was roasted, be left, it will be a great 
improvement to the hash. 

If you wish to make mock venison, instead of the onion, 
put in two or three cloves, a table-spoonful of currant jelly, 
and the same quantity of claret or port wine, instead of the 
catchup. 

You may make a curry hash by adding some of No. 455. 

N.B. A pint of No. 329 is an excellent gravy to warm up 
either meat or poultry. 

Sauce for hashed or minced Veal — (No. 361. See No. 511.) 

Take the bones of cold roast or boiled veal, dredge them 
well with flour, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and 
a half of broth or water, a small onion, a little grated or finely- 
minced lemon-peel, or the peel of a quarter of a small lemon, 
pared as thin as possible, half a tea-spoonful of salt, and a 
blade of pounded mace ; to thicken it, rub a table-spoonful of 
flour into half an ounce of butter; stir it into the broth, and 
set it on the fire, and let it boil very gently for about half an 
hour ; strain through a tamis or sieve, and it is ready to put 
to the veal to warm up ; which is to be done by placing the 
stew-pan by the side of the fire. Squeeze in half a lemon, 
and cover the bottom of the dish with toasted bread sippets 
cut into triangles, and garnish the dish with slices of ham or 
bacon. See Nos. 526 and 527. 

Bechamel, by English Cooks commonly called White Sauce. 
(No. 364.) 

Cut in square pieces, half an inch thick, two pounds of lean 
veal, half a pound of lean ham ; melt in a stew-pan two ounces 
of butter ; when melted, let the whole simmer until it is ready 
to catch at the bottom (it requires great attention, as, if it 
happen to catch at the bottom of the stew-pan, it will spoil 
the look of your sauce) ; then add to it three table-spoonfuls 
of flour ; when well mixed, add to it three pints of broth or 
water (pour a little at a time, that the thickening be smooth); 
stir it until it boil ; put the stew-pan on the corner of the stove 
to boil gently for two hours ; season it with four cloves, one 
onion, twelve pepper-corns, a blade of mace, a few mush- 
rooms and a fagot made of parsley, a sprig of thyme, and a 

Y2 



258 GKAVIES AND SAUC 



»S 



bay-leaf. Let the sauce reduce to a quart, skim the fat off, 
and strain it through a tamis cloth. 

To make a bechamel sauce, add to a quart of the above 
a pint of good cream ; stir it until it is reduced to a good 
thickness ; a few mushrooms give a good flavour to that 
sauce ; strain it through a tamis cloth. 

Obs. The above was given us by a French artist. 

A more economical Method of making a Pint of White Sauce. 
(No. 364—2.) 

Put equal parts of broth and milk into a stew-pan with an 
onion and a blade of mace; set it on the fire to boil ten 
minutes ; have ready and rub together on a plate an ounce of 
flour and butter; put it into the stew-pan; stir it well till it 
boils up ; then stand it near the fire or stove, stirring it every 
now and then till it becomes quite smooth; then strain it 
through a sieve into a basin ; put it back into the stew-pan ; 
season it w^ith salt and the juice of a small lemon ; beat up the 
yelks of two eggs well with about three table-spoonfuls of 
milk, strain it through a sieve into your sauce, stir it Avell 
and keep it near the fire, but be sure and do not let it boil, for 
it will curdle. 

Obs. A convenient veil for boiled fowls, &c. whose com- 
plexions are not inviting. 

Mem. With the assistance of the Magazine of Taste 
(No. 462) you may give this sauce a variety of flavours. 

Obs. Bechamel implies a thick white sauce, approaching to 
a batter, and takes its name from a wealthy French Mar- 
quis, maitre cVhotel de Louis XIV., and famous for his patronage 
of " les Officiers de Bouche,''"' who have immortalized him, by 
calling by his name this delicate composition. 

Most of the French sauces take their name from the person 
whose palate they first pleased, as " a la Maintenon ;" or 
from some famous cook who invented them, as " Sauce 
Robert," " a la Montizeur,''^ &c. 

We have in the English kitchen, our " Argyll" for gravy, 
and the little "Sandwich," ^^ monumentum cere perennius.^^ 



-" And thui? MoNTEiTH 



Has, by one vessel, saved his name from death." 

Kino's Art of Cookery. 

Poivrade Sauce. — (No. 365.) 
This, as its title tells us, is a sauce of French extraction. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 259 

The following receipt is from " La Cuisiniere Bourgeoise,''* 
pag-e 408. 

" Put a bit of butter as big as an egg into a stew-pan with 
two or three bits of onion, carrot, and turnip, cut in slices, 
two eschalots, two cloves, a bay-leaf, thyme, and basil ; keep 
turning them in the pan till they get a little colour ; shake in 
some flour, and add a glass of red wine, a glass of water, a 
spoonful of vinegar, and a little pepper and salt ; boil half an 
hour; skim and strain it." 

Mustard in a minute. — (No. 369.) 

Mix very gradually, and rub together in a mortar, an ounce 
of flour of mustard, with three table-spoonfuls of milk (cream 
is better), half a tea-spoonful of salt, and the same of sugar; 
rub them well together till quite smooth. 

Obs. Mustard made in this manner is not at all bitter, and 
is therefore instantly ready for the table. 

N.B. It has been said that flour of mustard is sometimes 
adulterated with common flour, &c. &c. 

Mustard.— {No. 370.) 

Mix (by degrees, by rubbing together in a mortar) the best 
Durham flour of mustard, with vinegar, white wine, or cold 
water, in which scraped horseradish has been boiled ; rub it 
well together for at least ten minutes, till it is perfectly 
smooth; it will keep in a stone jar closely stopped, for a 
fortnight : only put as much into the mustard-pot as will be 
used in a day or two. 

The ready-made mustard prepared at the oil shops is 
mixed with about one-fourth part salt : this is done to pre- 
serve it, if it is to be kept long; otherwise, by all means, 
omit it. The best way of eating salt is in substance. 

%* See also recipe No. 427. 

Obs. Mustard is the best of all the stimulants that are 
employed to give energy to the digestive organs. It was in 
high favour with our forefathers ; in the JVorthumberland 
Household Book for 1512, p. 18, is an order for an annual 
supply of 160 gallons of mustard. 

Some opulent epicures mix it with sherry or Madeira 
wine, or distilled or flavoured vinegar, instead of horseradish 
water. ^ 

The French flavour their mustard with Champaigne and 
other wines, or with vinegar flavoured with capers, anchovies, 



260 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

tarragon, elder, basil, burnet, garlic, eschalot, or celery, see 
No. 395 to No. 402 : warming it with Cayenne, or the various 
spices; sweet, savoury, fine herbs, truffles, catchup, &c. 
&c., and seem to consider mustard merely as a vehicle of 
flavours. 

N.B. In Mons. Maille et Aclocque's catalogue of Parisian 
" Bono Bons,''^ there is a list of twenty-eight differently fla- 
voured mustards. 



Salt— (No. 371.) 

Is (" aliorum condimentorum condimentum,''^ as Plutarch 
calls it,) sauce for sauce. 

Common salt is more relishing than basket salt ; it should 
^oe prepared for the table by drying it in a Dutch oven before 
ihe fire ; then put it on a clean paper, and roll it with a rolling 
pin ; if you pound it in a mortar till it is quite fine, it will look 
as well as basket salt. Maiden salt is still more piquante, 

\* Select for table-use the lumps of salt. 

0^5. Your salt-box must have a close cover, and be kept 
in a dry place. 

Salad mixture. — (No. 372. See also Nos. 138* and 453.) 

Endeavour to have your salad herbs as fresh as possible ; 
if you suspect they are not " morning gathered," they will 
be much refreshed by lying an hour or two in spring-water ; 
then carefully wash and pick them, and trim off all the worm- 
eaten, slimy, cankered, dry leaves ; and, after washing, let 
them remain a while in the colander to drain : lastly, swing 
them gently in a clean napkin : when properly picked and 
cut, arrange them in the salad dish, mix the sauce in a soup 
plate, and put it into an ingredient bottle,* or pour it down 
the side of the salad dish, and don't stir it up till the mouths 
are ready for it. 

If the herbs be young, fresh gathered, trimmed neatly, and 
drained dry, and the sauce-maker ponders patiently over the 
following directions, he cannot fail obtaining the fame of 
being a very accomplished salad-dresser. 

Boil a couple of eggs for twelve minutes, and put them in 
a basin of cold water for a few minutes ; the yelks must be 
quite cold and hard, or they will not incorporate with the in- 

* These are sold at the glass-shops under tm name of incorporators : we re- 
commend the sauce to be mixed in these, and the company can then take it or leave 
it, as they like. 



GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 261 

gredients. Rub them through a sieve with a wooden spoon, 
and mix them with a table-spoonful of water, or fine double 
cream ; then add two table-spoonfuls of oil or melted butter ; 
when these are well mixed, add, by degrees, a tea-spoonful 
of salt, or powdered lump sugar, and the same of made 
mustard : when these are smoothly united, add very gradu- 
ally three table-spoonfuls of vinegar ; rub it with the other 
ingredients till thoroughly incorporated with them ; cut up 
the white of the egg, and garnish the top of the salad with 
it. Let the sauce remain at the bottom of the bowl, and do 
not stir up the salad till it is to be eaten : we recommend 
the eaters to be mindful of the duty of mastication, Mithout 
the due performance of which, all undressed vegetables are 
troublesome company for the principal viscera, and some are 
even dangerously indigestible. 

Boiled Salad. 

This is best compounded of boiled or baked onions (if 
Portugal the better), some baked beet-root, cauliflower, or 
broccoli, and boiled celery and French beans, or any of 
these articles, with the common salad dressing ; added to 
this, to give it an enticing appearance, and to give some of 
the crispness and freshness so pleasant in salad, a small 
quantity of raw endive, or lettuce and chervil, or burnet, 
strewed on the top : this is by far more wholesome than the 
raw salad, and is much eaten when put on the table. 

N.B. The above sauce is equally good with cold meat, 
cold fish, or for cucumbers, celery, radishes, &c. and all 
the other vegetables that are sent to table undressed: to 
the above, a little minced onion is generally an acceptable 
addition. 

Obs. Salad is a very compound dish with our neighbours 
the French, who always add to the mixture above, black 
pepp-er, and sometimes savoury spice. 

The Italians mince the white meat of chickens into this 
sauce. 

The Dutch, cold boiled turbot or lobster ; or add to it a 
spoonful of grated parmesan or old Cheshire cheese, or 
mince very fine a little tarragon, or chervil, burnet, or young 
onion, celery, or pickled gherkins, &c. 

Joan Cromwell's grand salad was composed of equal parts 
of almonds, raisins, capers, pickled cucumbers, shrimps, and 
boiled turnips. 

This mixture is sometimes made with cream, oiled butter 



262 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 

(see No. 260*), or some ^ood jelly of meat (which many 
prefer to the finest Florence oil), and flavoured with salad 
mixture (No. 453), basil (No. 397), or cress or celery vinegar 
(No. 397*), horseradish vineg-ar (No. 399*), cucumber vinegar 
(No. 399), and Obs. to No. 116 of the Appendix ; tarragon, or 
elder vinegar, essence of celery (No. 409), walnut or lemon 
pickle, or a slice of lemon cut into dice, and essence of an- 
chovy (No. 433). 

Forcemeat Stuffings, — (No. 373.) 

Forcemeat is now considered an indispensable accompani- 
ment to most made dishes, and when composed with good 
taste, gives additional spirit and relish to even that " sove- 
reign of savouriness," turtle soup. 

It is also sent up in patties, and for stuffing of veal, game, 
poultry, &c. 

The ingredients should be so proportioned, that no one 
flavour predominates. 

To give the same stuffing for veal, hare, &c. argues a 
poverty of invention; with a little contrivance, you may 
make as great a variety as you have dishes. 

I have given receipts for some of the most favourite com- 
positions, and a table of materials, a glance at which will 
enable the ingenious cook to make an infinite variety of 
combinations : the first column containing the spirit, the 
second the substance of them. 

The poignancy of forcemeat should be proportioned to the 
savouriness of the viands, to which it is intended to give an 
additional zest. Some dishes require a very delicately 
flavoured forcemeat, for others, it must be full and high 
seasoned. What would be piquante in a turkey, would be 
insipid with turtle. 

Tastes are so different, and the praise the cook receives 
will depend so much on her pleasing the palate of those she 
works for, that all her sagacity must be on the alert, to pro- 
duce the iiavours to w^hich her employers are partial. See 
pages 45 and 46. 

Most people have an acquired and peculiar taste in stuff"- 
ings, &c., and w^hat exactly pleases one, seldom is precisely 
what another considers the most agreeable : and after all the 
contrivance of a pains-taking palatician, to combine her 
" hauts gouls^'' in the most harmonious proportions, 

" The very dish one likes the best, 
la acid, or insipid, to the rest " 



STUFFINGS. 



263 



Custom is all in all in matters of taste : it is not that one 
person is naturally fond of this or that, and another natu- 
rally averse to it ; but that one is used to it, and another is 
not. 

The consistency of forcemeats is rather a difficult thing 
to manage ; they are almost always either too light or too 
heavy. 

Take care to pound it till perfectly smooth, and that all 
the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated. 

Forcemeat-balls must not be larger than a small nutmeg. 
If they are for brown sauce, flour and fry them; if for 
white, put them into boiling water, and boil them for three 
minutes : the latter are by far the most delicate. 

N.B. If not of sufficient stiffiiess, it falls to pieces, and 
makes soup, &c. grouty and very unsightly. 

Sweetbreads and tongues are the favourite materials for 
forcemeat. 



MATERIALS USED FOR FORCEMEAT, STUFFINGS, &C. 



Fresh and green, 
)■ or in dried 
powder (No.461). 



Spirit. 

Common thyme. 

Lemon-thyme. 

Orange-thyme. 

Sweet marjoram. 

Slimmer and 

Winter savoury. 

Sage. 

Tarragon (No. 396). 

Chervil. 

Burnet (No. 399). 

Basil (No 397). 

Bay-leaf. 

Truffles and 

Moreils. 

Mushroom powder (No. 439). 

Leeks. 

Onions. 

Eschalot (No. 402). 

Garlic. 

Lemon-peel (see Nos. 407 and 408). 

Shrimps (No. J75) 

Prawns. 

Crabs. 

Lobsters (Nos. 176 and 178). 

Ovsters. 

Aiichovy (No. 433). 

Dressed tongue (see N.B. to No. 373) 

Ham. 

Bacon. 



Black or white pepper. 

Allspice. 

Mace. 

Cinnamon 

Ginger. 

Nutmegs. 

Cloves. 

Capers and pickles (minced or pounded) 

Savoury powder (No. 465). 

Soup herb powder (No. 467). 

Currv po«der (No. 455). 

Caye"nne (No. 404). 

Zest (No. 255). 

SUBST.4.NCES. 

Flour. 

Crumbs of bread. 

Parsley (see N.B. to No. 261). 

Spin age. 

Boiled onion. 

Mashed polatoes (No. 10«i\ 

Yelks of liard eggs (No. 574). 

Mutton. 

Beef. 

Veal suet.* or marrow. 

Calf's udder, or brains. 

Parboiled sweetbre.id. 

Veal, minced and [mnndfd, and 

Potted meats, &c. (.No. 503.) 



* If you have no suet, the best substitute for it is about one third part the quaiv 
tity of butter. 



264 STUFFINGS. 

For liquids, you have meat gravy, lemon-juice, syrup of 
lemons (Nos. 391 and 477), essence of anchovy (No. 433), 
the various vegetable essences (No. 407), mushroom catchup 
(No. 439), and the whites and yelks of eggs, w^ines, and the 
essence of spices. 

Stuffing for Veal, roast Turkey, Fowl, t^c— (No. 374.) 

Mince a quarter of a pound of beef suet (beef marrow is 
better), the same weight of bread-crumbs, two drachms of 
parsley-leaves, a drachm and a half of sweet marjoram or 
lemon-thyme, and the same of grated lemon-peel and onion 
chopped as fine as possible, a little pepper and salt ; pound 
thoroughly together with the yelk and white of two eggs, 
and secure it in the veal with a skewer, or sew it in with a bit 
of thread. 

Make some of it into balls or sausages; flour them, and 
boil, or fry them, and send them up as a garnish, or in a side 
dish, with roast poultry, veal, or cutlets, &c. 

N.B. This is about the quantity for a turkey poult : a very 
large turkey will take nearly twice as much. To the above 
may be added an ounce of dressed ham ; or use equal parts 
of the above stuffing and pork sausage meat (No. 87.) 
pounded well together. 

Obs. Good stuffing has always been considered a chef- 
d^ceuvre in cookery : it has given immortality to 

" Poor Roger Fowler, who 'd a generous mind, 
Nor would submit to have his hand confin'd, 
But aimed at all, — yet never could excel 
In any thing but stuffing of his veal." 

King's Art of Cookery, p. 113. 

Feal Forcemeat. — (No. 375.) 

Of undressed lean veal (after you have scraped it quite 
fine, and free from skin and sinews), two ounces, the same 
quantity of beef or veal suet, and the same of bread-crumbs ; 
chop fine two drachms of parsley, one of lemon-peel, one of 
sweet herbs, one of onion, and half a drachm of mace, or 
allspice, beaten to fine powder ; pound all together in a mor- 
tar ; break into it the yelk and white of an egg ; rub it all up 
well together, and season it with a little pepper and salt. 

Obs. — This may be made more savoury by the addition of 
cold boiled pickled tongue, anchovy, eschalot, Cayenne or 
curry powder, &c. 



FOBCEMEATS. 265 

SUiffing for Turkeys or Fowls, ^c. — (No. 377.) 

Take the foregoing composition for the roast turkey, or 
add the soft part of a dozen oysters to it : an anchovy, or a 
little grated ham, or tongue, if you like it, is still more relish- 
ing. Fill the craw of the fowl, &c. ; but do not cram it so 
as to disfigure its shape. 

Pork sausage meat is sometimes used to stuff turkeys and 
fowls ; or fried, and sent up as a garnish. 

^' Goose or Duck Stuffing.— {No. 378.) 

Chop very fine about two ounces of onion, of green sage- 
leaves about an ounce (both unboiled), four ounces of bread- 
crumbs, a bit of butter about as big as a walnut, &c., the 
yelk and white of an egg, and a little pepper and salt : some 
add to this a minced apple. 

For another, see roasted goose and duck (Nos. 59 and 61), 
which latter we like as forcemeat-balls for mock turtle ; then 
add a little lemon-peel, and warm it with Cayenne. 

Stuffing for Hare.~{No. 379.) 

Two ounces of beef suet chopped fine ; three ounces of fine 
bread-crumbs ; parsley, a drachm ; eschalot, half a drachm ; 
a drachm of marjoram, lemon-thyme, or winter savoury; a 
drachm of grated lemon-peel, and the same of pepper and 
salt : mix these with the white and yelk of an egg ; do not 
make it thin — it must be of cohesive consistence : if your 
stuffing is not stiff enough, it will be good for nothing : put 
it in the hare, and sew it up. 

*^* If the liver is quite sound, you may parboil it, and 
mince it very fuie, and add it to the above. 

Forcemeat-Balls for Turtle, Mock Turtle, or Made Dishes. 
(No. 380. See also No. 375.) 

Pound some veal in a marble mortar ; rub it through a sieve 
with as much of the udder as you have veal, or about a third 
of the quantity of butter: put some bread-crumbs into a 
stew-pan, moisten them with milk, add a little choppe(j[ 
parsley and eschalot, rub them Avell together in a mortar till 
they form a smooth paste ; put it through a sieve, and, when 
cold, pound, and mix all together, with the yelks of three 
eggs boiled hard; season it with salt, pepper, and curry 
powder, or Cayenne ; add to it the yelks of two raw eggs ; 
rub it well together, and make small balls : ten minutes 
before your soup is ready, put them in. 

Z 



266 FORCEMEATS. 

Egg Balls.— [No. 381.) 

Boil four eggs for ten minutes, and put them into cold 
water ; when they are quite cold, put the yelks into a mortar 
with the yelk of a raw eg-g-, a tea-spoonful of flour, same of 
chopped parsley, as much salt as will lie on a shilling, and a 
little black pepper, or Cayenne; rub them well together, roll 
them into small balls (as they swell in boiling) ; boil them a 
couple of minutes. 

Brain Balls. 

See No. 247, or beat up the brains of a calf in the way we 
have above directed the egg. 

Curry Balls for Mock Turtle^ Veal, Poultry, Made Dishes, ^c. 

(No. 382.) 

Are made with bread-crumbs, the yelk of an egg boiled 
hard, and a bit of fresh butter about half as big, beaten toge- 
ther in a mortar, and seasoned with curry powder (No. 455) ; 
make and prepare small balls, as directed in No. 381. 

Fish Forcemeat.— {No. 383.) 

Take two ounces of either turbot, sole, lobster, shrimps, or 
oysters ; free from skin, put it in a mortar with two ounces 
of fresh butter, one ounce of bread-crumbs, the yelk of two 
eggs boiled hard, and a little eschalot, grated lemon-peel, and 
parsley, minced very fine ; then pound it well till it is tho- 
roughly mixed and quite smooth ; season it with salt and 
Cayenne to your taste; break in the yelk and white of one 
egg, rub it well together, and it is ready for use. Oysters 
parboiled and minced fine, and an anchovy, may be added. 

Zest Balls.— {'No. 386. See No. 255.) 
Prepared in the same way as No. 381. 

Orange or Lemon-peel, to mix with Stiiffing. — (No. 387.) 

Peel a Seville orange, or lemon, very thin, taking off only 
the fine yellow rind (without any of the white) ; pound it in a 
mortar with a bit of lump sugar ; rub it Avell with the peel ; 
by degrees add a little of the forcemeat it is to be mixed with : 
when it is well ground and blended with this, mix it with the 
'whole: there is no other way of incoiporating it so well. 

Forcemeats, &c. are frequently spoiled by the insufficient 
mixing of the ingredients. 



STORE SAUCES. 267 

Clouted or Clotted Cream.— (No. 388.) 

The milk which is put into the pans one morning «tands 
till the next ; then set the pan on a hot hearth, or in a ;opper 
tray* half full of water ; put this over a stove ; in from ten 
to twenty minutes, according to the quantity of the milk and 
the size of the pan, it Avill be done enough ; the sign of which 
is, that bladders rise on its surface ; this denotes that it is near 
boiling, which it must by no means do; and it must be 
instantly removed from the fire, and placed in the dairy till 
the next morning, when the fine cream is thrown up, and is 
ready for the table, or for butter, into which it is soon con- 
verted by stirring it with the hand. 

N.B. This receipt we have not proved. 

Raspberry Vinegar. — (No. 390.) 

The best way to make this, is to pour three pints of the 
best white wine vinegar on a pint and a half of fresh- 
gathered red raspberries in a stone jar, or China bowl 
(neither glazed earthenware, nor any metallic vessel, must 
be used) ; the next day strain the liquor over a like quantity 
of fresh raspberries; and the day following do the same. 
Then drain off the liquor without pressing, and pass it 
through a jelly bag (previously wetted with plain vinegar) 
into a stone jar, with a pound of pounded lump sugar to each 
pint. When the sugar is dissolved; stir it up, cover down 
the jar, and set it in a saucepan of water, and keep it boiling 
for an hour, taking off the scum ; add to each pint a glass 
of brandy, and bottle it : mixed in about eight parts of water, 
it is a very refreshing and delightful summer drink. An 
excellent cooling beverage to assuage thirst in ardent fevers, 
colds, and inflammatory complaints, &c. and is agreeable to 
most palates. 

See No. 479*. 

N.B. We have not proved this receipt. 

Syrup of Lemons. — (No. 391.) 

The best season for lemons is from November to March. 
Put a pint of fresh lemon-juice to a pound and three- 
quarters of lump sugar ; dissolve it by a gentle heat ; skim it 
till the surface is quite clear ; add an ounce of thin-cut 
lemon-peel; let them simmer (very gently) together for a 

* A baine-marie. See note to No. 485, 



268 STOBE SAUCES. 

few minutes, and run it throiig-h a flannel. When cold, bottle 
and cork it closely, and keep it in a cool place. Or, 

Dissolve a quarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, 
i. e. crystallized lemon acid, in a pint of clarified syrup (No. 
475) ; flavour it with the peel, with No. 408, or dissolve the 
acid in equal parts of simple syrup (No. 475), and syrup of 
lemon-peel, as made No. 393. 

The Justice's Orange Syrup for Punch or Puddings. — (No. 392.) 

Squeeze the oranges, and strain the juice from the pulp 
into a large pot ; boil it up with a pound and a half of fine 
sugar to each point of juice ; skim it well ; let it stand till 
cold ; then bottle it, and cork it well. 

Obs. — This makes a fine, soft, mellow-flavoured punch; 
and, added to melted butter, is a good relish to puddings. 

Syrup of Orange or Lemon-peel. — (No. 393.) 

Of fresh outer rind of Seville orange or lemon-peel, three 
ounces, apothecaries' weight ; boiling water a pint and a half; 
infuse them for a night in a close vessel ; then strain the 
liquor : let it stand to settle ; and having poured it off" clear 
from the sediment, dissolve in it two pounds of double-re- 
finiid loaf sugar, and make it into a syrup with a gentle heat. 

06s. — In making this syrup, if the sugar be dissolved in 
the infusion with as gentle a heat as possible, to prevent the 
exhalation of the volatile parts of the peel, this syrup will 
possess a great share of the fine flavour of the orange, or 
lemon-peel. 

Finegar for Salads. — (No. 395.) 

" Take of tarragon, savoury, chives, eschalots, three ounces 
each ; a handful of the tops of mint and balm, all dry and 
pounded ; put into a wide-mouthed bottle, with a gallon of 
best vinegar ; cork it close, set it in the sun, and in a fort- 
night strain off", and squeeze the herbs ; let it stand a day to 
settle, and then strain it through a filtering bag." From 
I* armentikr's Art def aire les Vinaigres, 8vo. 1805, p. 205. 

Tarragon Vinegar. — (No. 396.) 

This is a very agreeable addition to soups, salad sauce 
(No. 455), and to mix mustard (No. 370). Fill a wide- 
mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered tarragon-leaves, i. e. 
between midsummer and Michaelmas (which should be 
gathered on a dry day, just before it flowers), ajid pick the 



STORE SAUCES. 260 

leaves off the stalks, and dry them a little before the fire ; 
cover them with the best vinegar ; let them steep fourteen 
days ; then strain through a flannel jelly bag till it is fine ; 
then pour it into half-pint bottles ; cork them carefully, and 
keep them in a dry place. 

Obs. You may prepare elder-flowers and herbs in the same 
manner; elder and tarragon are those in most general use in 
this country. 

Our neighbours, the French, prepare vinegars flavoured 
with celery, cucumbers, capsicums, garlic, eschalot, onion, 
capers, chervil, cress-seed, burnet, truffles, Seville orange- 
peel, ginger, &c. ; in short, they impregnate them with 
almost every herb, fruit, flower, and spice, separately, and in 
innumerable combinations. 

IMessrs. Maille et Aclocque, Vinaigriers a Paris, sell sixty- 
five sorts of variously flavoured vinegar, and twenty-eight 
different sorts of mustard. 

Basil Vinegar or Wine. — (No. 397.) 

Sweet basil is in full perfection about the middle of August. 
Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with the fresh green leaves of 
basil (these give much finer and more flavour than the dried), 
and cover them with vinegar, or wine, and let them steep for 
ten days : if you wish a very strong essence, strain the 
liquor, put it on some fresh leaves, and let them steep four- 
teen days more. 

Obs. This is a very agreeable addition to sauces, soups, 
and to the mixture usuadly made for salads. See Nos. 372 
and 453. 

It is a secret the makers of mock turtle may thank us for 
telling; a table-spoonful put in when the soup is finished 
will impregnate a tureen of soup with the basil and acid 
flavours, at very small cost, when fresh basil and lemons are 
extravagantly dear. 

The flavour of the other sweet and savoury herbs, celery, 
&c. may be procured, and preserved in the same mamier 
(No. 409, or No. 417), by infusing them in wine or vinegar. 

Cress Vinegar. — (No. 397*.) 

Dry and pound half an ounce of cress-seed (such as is 
sown in the garden with mustard), pour upon it a quart of 
the best vmegar, let it steep ten days, shaking it up every 
day. 

Obs. This is very strongly flavoured with cress ; and for 
salads and cold meats, &c. it is a great favourite with many : 

Z 2 



270 STORE SAUCES. 

the quart of sauce costs only a half-penny more than the 
vinegar. 

Celery rinegar is made in the same manner. 

The crystal vinegar (No. 407*), which is, we believe, the 
pyroligneous acid, is the best for receiving flavours, having 
scarcely any of its own. 

Green Mint Vinegar,— {'No. 398.) 

Is made precisely in the same manner, and with the same 
proportions as in No. 397. 

Obs. — In the early season of housed lamb, green mint 
is sometimes not to be got ; the above is then a welcome 
substitute. 

Burnet or Cucumber Vinegar. — (No. 399.) 

This is made in precisely the same manner as directed in 
No. 397. The flavour of burnet resembles cucumber so ex- 
actly, that when infused in vinegar, the nicest palate would 
pronounce it to be cucumber. 

06s. — This is a very favourite relish with cold meat, 
salads, &c. 

Burnet is in best season from midsummer to Michaelmas. 

Horseradish Vinegar. — (No. 399*.) 

Horseradish is in highest perfection about November. 

Pour, a quart of best vinegar on three ounces of scraped 
horseradish, an ounce of minced eschalot, and one drachm 
of Cayenne ; let it stand a week, and you ^vill have an ex- 
cellent relish for cold beef, salads, &c. costing scarcely any 
thing. 

N.B. A portion of black pepper and mustard, celeiy or 
cress-seed, may be added to the above. 

Obs. — Horseradish powder (No. 458*). 

Garlic Vinegar. — (No. 400.) 

Garlic is ready for this purpose from midsmnmer to 
Michaelmas. 

Peel and chop two ounces of garlic, pour on them a quart 
of white wine vinegar, stop the jar close, and let it steep 
ten days, shaking it well every day ; then pour off the clear 
liquor into small bottles. 

Obs. — The cook must be careful not to use too much of 
this ; a few drops of it will give a pint of gravy a suflicieut 



STORE SAUCES. 271 

smack of the garlic, the flavour of which, when slight and 
well blended, is one of the finest we have ; when used in ex- 
cess, it is the most offensive. 

The best way to use garlic, is to send up some of this 
vinegar in a cruet, and let the company flavour their own 
sauce as they like. 

N.B. The most elegant preparation of the onion tribe is 
the eschalot wine. No. 402. 

Eschalot Vinegar, — (No. 401.) 

Is made in the same manner, and the cook should never 
be without one of these useful auxiliaries ; they cost scarcely 
any thing but the little trouble of making, and will save a 
great deal of trouble in flavouring soups and sauces with a 
taste of onion. 

N.B. Eschalots are in high perfection during July, August, 
and September. 

Eschalot Wine. — (No. 402.) 

Peel, mince, and pound in a mortar, three ounces of 
eschalots, and infuse them in a pint of sherry for ten days ; 
then pour off" the clear liquor on three ounces more eschalots, 
and let the wine stand on them ten days longer. 

Ohs. — This is rather the most expensive, but infinitely the 
most elegant preparation of eschalot, and imparts the onion 
flavour to soups and sauces, for chops, steaks, or boiled 
meats, hashes, &c. more agreeably than any : it does not 
leave any unpleasant taste in the mouth, or to the breath ; 
nor repeat, as almost all other preparations of garlic, onion, 
&c. do. 

N.B. An ounce of scraped horseradish may be added to 
the above, and a little thin-cut lemon-peel, or a few drops of 
No. 408. 

Camp Vinegar. — (No. 403.) 

Cayenne pepper, one drachm, avoirdupois weight. 

Soy, two table-spoonfuls. 

Walnut catchup, four ditto. 

Six anchovies chopped. 

A small clove of garlic, minced fine. 

Steep all for a month in a pint of the best vinegar, fre- 
quently shaking the bottle : strain through a tamis, and keep 
it in small bottles, corked as tightly as possible. 



272 STORE SAUCES. 

Cayenne Pepper. — (No. 404.) 

Mr. Accum has informed the public (see his book on 
Adulterations) that from some specimens that came direct 
to bim from India, and others obtained from respectable oil 
shops in London, he has extracted lead ! 

" Foreign Cayenne pepper is an indiscriminate mixture of 
the powder of the dried pods of many species of capsicums, 
especially of the bird pepper, which is the hottest of all. 
As it comes to us from the West Indies, it changes the in- 
fusion of turnsole to a beautiful green, probably owing to 
the salt, which is always added to it, and the red oxide of 
lead, with which it is said to be adulterated." Duncan's 
JVew Edinburgh Dispensary, 1819, Article Cajysicum, p. 81. 

The Indian Cayenne is prepared in a very careless man- 
ner, and often looks as if the pods had lain till they were 
decayed, before they were dried : this accounts for the dirty 
brown appearance it commonly has. If properly dried as 
soon as gathered, it will be of a clear red colour : to give it 
the complexion of that made with good fresh-gathered 
capsicums or Chilies, some annatto, or other vegetable red 
colouring matter, is pounded with it : this, Mr. A. assures 
us, is frequently adulterated with Indian red, i. e. " red 
lead!" 

When Cayenne is pounded, it is mixed with a considera- 
ble portion of salt, to prevent its flying up and hurting the 
eyes : this might be avoided by grinding it in a mill, which 
may easily be made close enough, especially if it be passed 
through a second time, and then sifted through a fine drum- 
headed sieve, to produce as fine a powder as can be obtained 
by pounding ; however, our English chilies may be pounded 
in a deep mortar without any danger. 

The flavour of the Chilies is very superior to that of the 
capsicums, and will be good in proportion as they are dried 
as soon as possible, taking care they are not burned. 

Take away the stalks, and put the pods into a colander ; 
set it. before the fire; they will take full twelve hours to 
dry; then put them into a mortar, with one-fourth their 
weight of salt, and pound them, and rub them till they 
are fine as possible, and put them into a well-stopped bottle. 

N.B. We advise those who are fond of Cayenne not to 
think it too much trouble to make it of English Chilies ; there 
is no other way of being sure it is genuine, and they will 
obtain a pepper of much finer flavour, without half the heat 
of the foreign. 

A hundred large Chilies, costing only two shillings, will 



STORE SAUCES. 273 

produce you about two ounces of Cayenne, so it is as cheap 
as the commonest Cayenne. 

Four hundred Chilies, when the stems were taken off, 
weighed half a pound ; and when dried, produced a quarter 
of a pound of Cayenne pepper. 

Essence of Cayenne. — (No. 405.) 

Put half an ounce of Cayenne pepper (No. 404) into half 
a pint of brandy or wine ; let it steep for a fortnight, and then 
pour off the clear liquor. 

This is nearly equal to fresh Chili juice. 

Obs. — This or the Chili vinegar (No. 405*,) is extremely 
convenient for the extempore seasoning and finishing of 
soups, sauces, &c., its flavour being instantly and equally 
diffused. Cayenne pepper varies so much in strength, that 
it is impossible to season soup any other way to the precise 
point of piquance. 

Chili Vinegar.— {No. 405*.) 

This is commonly made with the foreign bird pepper; but 
you will obtain a much finer flavour from infusing fifty fresh 
red English Chilies (cut in half, or pounded) in a pint of the 
best vinegar for a fortnight, or a quarter of an ounce of 
Cayenne pepper, No. 404. 

Obs. — Many people cannot eat fish without the addition of 
an acid, and Cayenne pepper : to such palates this will be an 
agreeable relish. 

Chili, or Cayenne Wine. — (No. 406.) 

Pound and steep fifty fresh red Chilies, or a quarter of an 
ounce of Cayenne pepper, in half a pint of brandy, white 
wine, or claret, for fourteen days. 

Obs. — This is a " bonne bouche^^ for the lovers of Cayenne, 
of which it takes up a larger proportion of its flavour than 
of its fire ; which being instantly diffused, it is a very useful 
auxiliary to warm and iuiish soups and sauces, &c. 

Essence of Lemon-peel. — (No. 407.) 

Wash and brush clean the lemons ; let them get perfectly 
iry : take a lump of loaf sugar, and rub them till all the 
/ellow rind is taken up by the sugar : scrape off the surface 
«f the sugar into a preserving pot, and press it hard down; 
*over it very close, and it will keep for some time. 



274 STORE SAUCES. 

In the same way you may get the essence of Seville 
orange-peel. 

Obs. This method of procuring and preserving the flavour 
of lemon-peel, by making mi oleosaccharum, is far superior 
to the common practice of paring off the rind, or grating it, 
and pounding, or mixing that with sugar : by this process 
you obtain the whole of the fine, fragrant, essential oil, in 
which is contained the flavour. 



Artificial Lemon-juice. — (No. 407*.) 

If you add a drachm of lump sugar, pounded, and six 
drops of No. 408, to three ounces of crystal vinegar, which 
is the name given to the pyroligneous vinegar, you will have 
an excellent substitute for lemon-juice — for fish sauces and 
soups, and many other culinary puiposes. The flavour of 
the lemon may also be communicated to the vinegar by in- 
fusing some lemon-peel in it. 

N.B. The pyroligneous vinegar is perfectly free from all 
flavour, save that of the pure acid ; therefore, it is a very 
valuable menstruum for receiving impregnations from vari- 
ous flavouring materials. 

The pyroligneous acid seems likely to produce quite a 
revolution in the process of curing hams, herrings, &c. &c. 
See Tilloch's Philosophical Magazine, 1821, No. 173, p. 12. 

Quintessence of Lemon-peel. — (No. 408.) 

Best oil of lemon, one drachm, strongest rectified spirit, 
two ounces, introduced by degrees till the spirit kills, and 
completely mixes with the oil. This elegant preparation 
possesses all the delightful fragrance and flavour of the 
freshest lemon-peel. 

Ohs. A fev/ drops on the sugar you make punch with will 
instantly impregnate it with as much flavour as the trouble- 
some and tedious method of grating the rind, or rubbing the 
sugar on it. 

It will be found a superlative substitute for fresh lemon- 
peel for every purpose that it is used for : blanc mange, 
.jellies, custards, is.'e, negus, lemonade, and pies and puddings, 
stuffings, soups, sauces, ragouts, &c. 

See also No. 393. 

Tincture of Lemon-peel. — (No. 408*.) 
A very easy and economical way of obtaining, and pre- 



STORE SAUCES. 275 

serving the flavour of lemon-peel, is to fill a wide-mouthed 
pint bottle half full of brandy, or proof spirit ; and when 
you use a lemon, pare the rind off very thin, and put it into 
the brandy, &c. : in a fortnight it will impregnate the spirit 
with the flavour very strongly. 

Essence of Celery. — (No. 409.) 

Brandy, or proof spirit, a quarter of a pint. 

Celery-seed bruised, half an omice, avoirdupois weight. 

Let it steep for a fortnight. 

06s. — A few drops will immediately flavour a pint of broth, 
and are an excellent addition to pease, and other soups, and 
the salad mixture of oil, vinegar, &c. (No. 392.) 

N.B. To make celery sauce, see No. 289. 

Aromatic Esseiice of Ginger. — (No. 411.) 

Three ounces of fresh-grated* ginger, and two ounces of 
thin-cut lemon-peel, into a quart of brandy, or proof spirit 
(apothecaries' measure) ; let it stand for ten days, shaking 
it up each day. 

Ohs. — The proper title for this would be " tincture of gin- 
ger:" however, as it has obtained the name of "essence," 
so let it be called. 

N.B. If ginger is taken to produce an immediate effect, 
to warm the stomach, or dispel flatulence, this is the best 
preparation. 

Essence of Allspice for mulling of Wine. — (No. 412.) 

Oil of pimento, a drachm, apothecaries' measure, strong 
spirit of wine, two ounces, mixed by degrees : a few drops 
will give the flavour of allspice to a pint of gravy, or 
mulled wine, or to make a bishop. Mulled wine made with 
Burgundy is called bishop ; with old Rhenish wine, cardinal; 
and with Tokay, Pope. Ritter's Weinlehres, p. 200 

Tincture^ of Allspice. — (No. 413.) 

Of allspice bruised, three ounces, apothecaries' weight. 
Brandy, a quart. 

* The fragrant aroma of ginger is so extremely volatile, that it evaporates almost 
as soon as it is powdered ; and the fine lemon-pee! gout flies off presenlly. 
t Tinctures are much finer flavoured than essences. 



276 STORE SAUCES. 

Let it steep a fortnight, occasionally shaking it up ; then 
pour off the clear liquor : it is a most grateful addition m all 
cases where allspice is used, for making a bishop, or to 
mulled wine extempore, or in gravies, &c., or to flavour and 
preserve potted meats (No. 503). See Sir Hans Sloane's 
Obs. on Allsvice, p. 96. 

Tincture of Nutmeg. — (No. 413*.) 

Is made with the same proportions of nutmeg and brandy, 
as ordered for allspice. See Ohs. to No. 415. 

Essence of Clove and Mace. — (No. 414.) 

Strongest spirit of wine, two ounces, apothecaries' 

measure. 
Oil of nutmeg, or clove, or mace, .a drachm, apothecaries' 

measure. 

Tincture of Clove. — (No. 415.) 

Cloves bruised, three ounces, apothecaries' weight. 
Brandy, one quart. 

Let it steep ten days : strain it tlirough a flannel sieve. 
Ohs. — Excellent to flavour " bishop," or " mulled wine." 

Essence of Cinnamon. — (No. 416.) 

Strongest rectified spirit of wine, two ounces. 

Oil of Cinnamon, one drachm, apothecaries' measure. 

Tincture of Cinnamon. — (No. 416*.) 

This exhilarating cordial is made by pouring a bottle of 
genuine cognac (No. 471,) on three ounces of bruised cinna- 
mon (cassia will not do). 

This restorative was more in vogue formerly than it is 
now : a tea-spoonful of it, and a lump of sugar, in a glass of 
good sherry or Madeira, with the yelk of an egg beat up in 
it, was called " balsamum vitce.^'' 

" Cur moriatur homo, qui sumit de cinnamomo ?" — " Cinnamon is verie comfort- 
able to the stomacke, and the piincipall partes of the bodie." 

" Ventriculum^ jecur, lienem, cerebrum, nervosque juvat et roborat.'" — "I reckon 
it a ^reat treasure for a student to have by liini in his closet, to take now and then 
a spoonful." — Cogan's Havewof Health, 4to. 1584, p. 111. 

Obs. — Two tea-spoonfuls in a wine-glass of water, are a 
present and pleasant remedy in nervous languors, and in 
relaxations of the bowels : in the latter case, five drops of 
laudanum may be added to each dose. 



STORE SAUCES. 277 

Essence of Marjoram. — (No. 417.) 

Strongest rectified spirit, two ounces. 

Oil of origanum, one drachm, apothecaries' measure. 

Vegetable Essences. — (No. 417*.) 

The flavour of the various sweet and savoury herbs may 
be obtained by combining their essential oils with rectified 
spirit of wine, in the proportion of one drachm of the former 
to two ounces of the latter, or by picking the leaves, and 
laying them for a couple of hours in a warm place to dry, 
and then filling a large-mouthed bottle with them, and pouring 
on them wine, brandy, proof spirit, or vinegar, and letting 
them steep for fourteen days. 

Soup-herb* Spirit. — (No. 420.) 

Of lemon-thyme, 

Winter savoury, 

Sweet marjoram. 

Sweet basil, — half an ounce of each. 

Lemon-peel grated, two drachms. 

Eschalots, the same. 

Celery-seed, a drachm, avoirdupois weight. 

Prepare them as directed in No. 461 ; and infuse them in 
a pint of brandy, or proof spirit, for ten days : they may also 
be infused in wine or vinegar, but neither extract the flavour 
of the ingredients half so well as the spirit. 

Spirit of Savoury Spice. — (No. 421.) 

Black pepper, an ounce ; allspice, half an ounce, pounded 
fine. 

Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce, avoirdupois weight. 

Infuse in a pint of brandy, or proof spirit, for ten days ; 
or, infuse the ingredients enumerated in No. 457, in a quart 
of brandy, or proof spirit, for the like time. 

Soup-herb and Savoury Spice Spirit. — (No. 422.) 

Mix half a pint of soup-herb spirit with a quarter of a pint 
of spirit of savoury spice. 

06s. — These preparations are valuable auxiliaries to imme- 
diately heighten the flavour, and finish soups, sauces, ragouts, 

* Pbr the season, &c. when these herbs, &c. come in perfection, and how to dry 
them, see No. 461. 

Aa 



278 SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. 

&c., will save much time and trouble to the cook, and keep 
for twenty years. 

Relish for Chops, <^'C.— (No. 423.) 

Pound fine an ounce of black pepper, and half an ounce 
of allspice, M'ith an ounce of salt, and half an ounce of 
scraped horseradish, and the same of eschalots, peeled and 
quartered ; put these ingredients into a pint of mushroom 
catchup, or walnut pickle, and let them steep for a fortnight, 
and then strain it. 

Obs. — A tea-spoonful or two of this is generally an 
acceptable addition, mixed with the gravy usually sent up 
for chops and steaks (see No. 356) ; or added to thick melted 
butter. 

Fish Sauce.— {No. 425.) 

Two wine-glasses of port, and two of walnut pickle, four 
of mushroom catchup, half a dozen anchovies, pounded, the 
like number of eschalots sliced and pounded, a table-spoonful 
of soy, and half a drachm of Cayenne pepper; let them 
simmer gently for ten minutes ; strain it, and when cold, 
put it into bottles; well corked, and sealed over, it M'ill keep 
for a considerable time. 

Obs. — This is commonly called Quin's sauce, and was 
given to me by a very sagacious sauce-maker. 

Keeping Mustard. — (No. 427.) 

Dissolve three ounces of salt in a quart of boilinpr "vater, 
or rather vinegar, and pour it hot upon two ounces of scrape<l 
horseradish ; closely cover down the jar, and let it stand 
twenty-four hours : strain, and mix it by degreer. "wilh the 
best Durham flour" of mustard, beat well together till quite 
smooth, and of the proper thickness ; put into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, and stop it closely. For the vaiious ways 
to flavour mustard, see No. 370. 

Sauce Superlative.* — (No. 429.) 

Claret, or port wine, and mushroom catchup (see No. 439), 
a pint of each. 

* We hope this title will not offend those who may quote against it the old 
adage, "that good appetite is the best sauce." — Allowing this to be generally true 
which is a more candid confession than CDnId be expected from a cook), we dare 
say, the majority of our readers will vote with us, that there are many good things 
(fish especially) that would be rather insipid without a little sauce of another kind. 



SAUCE SUPERLATIVE. 279 

Half a pint of walnut or other pickle liquor. 

Pounded anchovies, four ounces. 

Fresh lemon-peel, pared very thin, an ounce. 

Peeled and sliced eschalots, the same. 

Scraped horseradish, ditto. 

Allspice, and 

Black pepper powdered, half an ounce each. 

Cayenne, one drachm, or curry-powder, three drachms. 

Celery-seed bruised, a drachm. All avoirdupois weight. 
Put these into a wide-mouthed bottle, stop it close, shake it 
up every day for a fortnight, and strain it (when some think 
it improved by the addition of a quarter of a pint of soy, or 
thick browning-, see No. 322), and you will have a " delicious 
double relish." i 

*if* This composition is one of the " chefs d'cEuvre" of 
many experiments I have made, for the purpose of enabling 
the good housewives of Great Britain to prepare their own 
sauces : it is equally agreeable with fish, game, poultry, or 
ragouts, &c., and as a fair lady may make it herself, its 
relish will be not a little augmented, by the certainty that all 
the ingredients are good and wholesome. 

Obs. — Under an infinity of circumstances, a cook may be 
in want of the substances necessary to make sauce : the 
above composition of the several articles from which the 
various gravies derive their flavour, will be found a veiy 
admirable extemporaneous substitute. By mixing a large 
table-spoonful with a quarter of a pint of thickened melted 
butter, broth, or No. 252, five minutes will finish a boat of 
very relishing sauce, nearly equal to drawn gravy, and as 
likely to put your lingual nerves into good humour as any 
thing I know. 

To make a boat of sauce for poultry, &c. put a piece of 
butter about as big as an egg into a stew-pan, set it on 
the fire ; when it is melted, put to it a table-spoonful of 
flour; stir it thoroughly together, and add to it two table- 
spoonfuls of sauce, and by degrees about half a pint of 
broth, or boiling water, let it simmer gently over a slow fire 
for a few minutes, skim it and strain it through a sieve, and 
it is ready. 



" Wherefore did Nature pour her bounties forth, 
With such a full and unvvithdrawing hand, 
Covering the earth with odours, fruits, and flocks. 
Thronging the sea with spawn innumerable ; 
But all to please and sate the curious taste ?" 

Milton. 



280 ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. 

Quintessence of Anchovy. — (No. 433.) 

The goodness of this preparation depends almost entirely 
on having fine mellow fish, that have been in pickle long 
enough {i. e. about twelve months) to dissolve easily, yet 
are not at all rusty. 

Choose those that are in the state they come over in, not 
such as have been put into fresh pickle, mixed with red 
paint,* which some add to improve the complexion of the 
fish ; it has been said, that others have a trick of putting 
anchovy liquor on pickled sprats ;t you will easily discover 
this by washing one of them, and tasting the flesh of it, 
which in the fine anchovy is mellow, red, and high-flavoured, 
and the bone moist and oily. Make only as much as will 
soon be used, the fresher it is the better. 

Put ten or twelve anchovies into a mortar, and pound 
them to a pulp ; put this into a very clean iron, or silver, or 
very well tinned saucepan ; then put a large table-spoonful 
of cold spring-water (we prefer good vinegar) into the 
mortar ; shake it round, and pour it to the pounded anchovies, 
set them by the side of a slow fire, very frequently stirring 
them together till they are melted, which they will be in the 
course of five minutes. Now stir in a quarter of a drachm 
of good Cayenne pepper (No. 404). and let it remain by 
the side of the fire for a few minutes longer ; then, while it 
is warm, rub it through a hair-sieve,J with the back of a 
wooden spoon. 

The essence of anchovy, which is prepared for the com- 
mittee of taste, is made with double the above quantity of 
water, as they are of opinion that it ought to be so thin as 
not to hang about the sides of the bottle ; when it does, the 
large surface of it is soon acted upon by the air, and becomes 
rancid and spoils all the rest of it. 

A roll of thin-cut lemon-peel infused with the anchovy, 
imparts a fine, fresh, delicate, aromatic flavoiu', which is 
very grateful ; this is only recommended when you make 
sauce for immediate use ; it will keep much better without ; 
if you wish to acidulate it, instead of water make it with 
artificial lemon-juice (No. 407*), or add a little of Coxwell's 
concrete acid to it. 

* " Several samples which we examined of this fish sauce, have been found 
contaminated with lead."— See Accum on Adulteration^ page 328. 

t Tliey may do very well for common palates ; but to imitate the fine flavour of 
the Gorgona fish, so as to impose upon a well-educated gourmand^ still remains in 
the catalogue of the sauce-maker's desiderata. 

X The economist may talte the thicli remains that wont pass through the sieve, 
and pound it with some flout, and make anchovy paste, or powder. See Nos. 434 
and. 435. 



ESSENCE OF ANCHOVY. 281 

Obs. — The above is the proper way to perfectly dissolve 
anchovy,* and to incorporate it with the water; which, if 
completely saturated, will continue suspended. 

To prevent the separation of essence of anchovy, and 
give it the appearance of being- fully saturated with fish, 
various other expedients have been tried, such as dissolving 
the fish in thin water gruel, or barley-water, or thickening 
it with mucilage, flour, &c. : when any of these things 
are added, it does not keep half so well as it does without 
them; and to preserve it, they overload it with Cayenne 
pepper. 

Mem. — You cannot make essence of anchovy half so 
cheap as you can buy it. Thirty prime fish, weighing a 
pound and a quarter, and costing 4s. 6d., and two table- 
spoonfuls of water, made me only half a pint of essence ; 
you may commonly buy that quantity ready-made for 2s., and 
we have seen an advertisement offering it for sale as low as 
2s. 6d. per quart. 

It must be kept very closely stopped ; when you tap a 
bottle of sauce, throw away the old perforated cork, and put 
in a new taper velvet cork; if the air gets to it, the fish takes 
the rustjf and it is spoiled directly. 

Essence of anchovy is sometimes coloured^ with' bole 
armeniac, Venice red, &c; but all these additions dete- 
riorate the flavour of the sauce, and the palate and stomach 
suffer for the gratification of the eye, which, in culinary 
concerns, will never be indulged by the sagacious gour- 
mand at the expense of these two primum mobiles of his 
pursuits. 

*^* Essence of anchovy is sometimes made with sherry 
or Madeira wine, or good mushroom catchup (No. 439), 
instead of water. If you like the acid flavour, add a little 
citric acid, or dissolve them in good vinegar. 

N.B. This is infinitely the most convenient way of using 
anchovy, as each guest may mix sauce for himself, and 
make it strong or weak, according to his own taste. 

It is also much more economical, as plain melted butter 
(No. 256) serves for other purposes at table. 

* Epicure Quin used to say, " Of all the banns of marriage I ever heard, none 
gave uie half such pleasure as the union of delicate Ann-chovy with good John- 
dory." 

T "Rust in anchovies, if I 'm not mistaken, 
Is as bad as rust in steel, or rust in bacon." 

Young's Epicure, page 14 
i If you are not contented with the natural colour, break some lob:;ter8' eggs into 
»l, and you will not only heighten the conii)lcxi()n of your .sauce, but improve its 
flavour. This is the only rouge we can reconuuend. See note to No. 284. 

A a2 



282 CATCHUPS. 

Anchovy Paste, or le Beurre d'Anchois. — (No. 434.) 

Pound them in a mortar; then rub it through a fine sieve ; 
pot it, cover it with clarified butter, and keep it in a cool 
place. 

N.B. If you have essence of anchovy, you may make 
anchovy paste extempore, by rubbing- the essence with as 
much flour as will make a paste. Mem.— This is merely 
mentioned as the means of making it immediately ; it will 
not keep. 

Ohs. — This is sometimes made stiffer and hotter bj' the 
addition of a little flour of mustard, a pickled walnut, spice 
(No. 460), curry powder (No. 455), or Cayenne ; and it then 
becomes a rival to " la veritable sauce df enfer''' (No. 528), or 
vai^ala diahle for deviling biscuits (No. 574), grills (No. 
538), &c. It is an excellent garnish for fish, put in pats 
round the edge of the dish, or will make anchovy toast (No. 
573), or devil a biscuit (No. 574), &c. in high style. 

Anchovy Powder. — (No. 435.) 

Pound the fish in a mortar, rub them through a sieve, and 
make them into a paste with dried flour, roll it into thin 
cakes, and dry them in a Dutch oven before a slow fire ; 
pounded to a fine powder, and put into a Avell-stopped bottle, 
it will keep for years ; it is a very savoury relish, sprinkled 
on bread and butter for a sandwich, &c. See Oyster Powder 
(No. 280). 

Ohs. — To this may be added a small portion of Cayemie 
pepper, grated lemon-peel, and citric acid. 

Walnut Catchup.— {No. 438.) 

Take six half-sieves of green walnut-shells, put them into 
a tub, mix them up well with common salt, (from two to 
three pounds,) let them stand for six days, frequently beating 
and mashing them ; by this time the shells become soft and 
pulpy ; then by banking it up on one side of the tub, and at 
the same time by raising the tub on that side, the liquor will 
drain clear off to the other ; then take that liquor out : the 
mashing and banking-up may be repeated as often as liquor 
is found. The quantity will be about six quarts. When 
done, let it be simmered in an iron boiler as long as any 
scum arises ; then bruise a quarter of a pound of ginger, a 
quarter of a pound of allspice, two ounces of long pepper, 
two ounces of cloves, with the above ingredients ; let it 
slowly boil for half an hour ; v/hen bottled, let an equal 



CATCHUPS. 283 

quantity of the spice go into each bottle ; when corked, let 
the bottles be filled quite up : cork them tight, seal them 
over, and put them into a cool and dry place for one year 
before they are used. ^ i 

N.B. For the above we are indebted to a respectable oil- 
man, who has many years proved the receipt. 

Mushroom Catchup. — (No. 439.) 

If you love good catchup, gentle reader, make it your- 
self,* after the following directions, and you will have a 
delicious relish for made-dishes, ragouts, soups, sauces, or 
hashes. 

JNIushroom gravy approaches the nature and flavour of 
meat gravy, more than any vegetable juice, and is the super- 
lative substitute for it : in meagre soups and extempore 
gravies, the chemistry of the kitchen has yet contrived to 
agreeably awaken the palate, and encourage the appetite. 

A couple of quarts of double catchup, made according to 
the following receipt, Avill save you some score pounds of 
meat, besides a vast deal of time and trouble ; as it will fur- 
nish, in a few minutes, as good sauce as can be made for 
either fish, tlesh, or fowl. See No. 307. 

I believe the following is the best way of extracting and 
preparing the essence of mushrooms, so as to procure and 
preserve their flavour for a' considerable length of time. 

Look out for mushrooms from the beginning of Sep- 
tember. 

Take care they are the right sort, and fresh gathered. 
Full-grown flaps are to be preferred : put a layer of these 
at the bottom of a deep earthen pan, and sprinkle them with 
salt ; then another layer of mushrooms, and some more salt 
on them ; and so on alternately, salt and mushrooms : let 
them remain two or three hours, by which time the salt will 
have penetrated the mushrooms, and rendered them easy to 
break; then pound them in a mortar, or mash them w^ell with 
your hands, and let them remain for a couple of days, not 
longer, stirring them up and mashing them well each day; 
then pour them into a stone jar, and to each quart add an 
ounce and a half of whole black pepper, and half an omice 
of allspice ; stop ihe jar very close, and set it in a stew-pan 
of boiling water, and keep it boiling for two hours at least. 

* "The mushrooms employed for preparing ready-made catcliup, are generally 
those whicli are in a putrefactive state. In a few days after \hnse fungi have lieen 
gatliered, they become the habitations of myriads of iiieetis."' — Accl'm on Culinary 
Poisons, 12mo. 18ii0, p. 350. 



284 CATCHUPS. 

Take out the jar, and pour the juice clear from the settlings 
through a hair-sieve (without squeezing-* the mushrooms) 
into a clean stew-pan ; let it boil very gently for half an hour : 
those who are for superlative catchup, will continue the 
boiling- till the mushroom-juice is reduced to half the quan- 
tity ; it may then be called double cat-sup or dog-sup. 

There are several advantages attending this concentra- 
tion ; it will keep much better, and only half the quantity be 
required; so you can flavour sauce, &c. without thiiming it : 
neither is this an extravagant way of making it, for merely 
the aqueous part is evaporated; skim it well, and pour it 
into a clean dry jar, or jug; cover it close, and let it stand in 
a cool place till next day ; then pour it off as gently as pos- 
sible (so as not to disturb the settlings at the bottom of the 
jug,) through a tamis, or thick flannel bag, till it is perfectly 
clear ; add a table-spoonful of good brandy to each pint of 
catchup, and let it stand as before ; a fresh sediment will be 
deposited, from which the catchup is to be quietly poured off, 
and bottled in pints or half pints (which have been washed 
with brandy or spirit) : it is best to keep it in such quantities 
as are soon used. 

Take especial care that it is closely corked, and sealed 
down, or dipped in bottle cement. 

If kept in a cool, dry place, it maybe preserved for a long 
time ; but if it be badly corked, and kept in a damp place, 
it will soon spoil. 

Examine it from time to time, by placing a strong light 
behind the neck of the bottle, and if any pellicle appears 
about it, boil it up again with a few peppercorns. 

We have ordered no more spice, &c. than is absolutely 
necessary to feed the catchup, and keep it from ferment- 
ing, &c. 

The compound, commonly called catchup, is generally an 
injudicious combination of so many different tastes, that the 
flavour of the mushroom is overpowered by a farrago of 
garlic, eschalot, anchovy, mustard, horseradish, lemon-peel, 
beer, wine, spice, &c. 

Obs. — A table-spoonful of double catchup will impregnate 
half a pint of sauce with the full flavour of mushroom, in, 
much greater perfection than either pickled or powder of 
mushrooms. 

* The squeezings are the perquisite of the cook, to make sauce for the second 
table : do not deprive her of it ; it is the most profitable save-all you can give her, 
and will enable her to make up a good family dinner, with what v/ould otherwise 
be wasted. After the mushrooms have been squeezed, dry them in the Dutch oven, 
and make mushroom powder. 



CATCHUPS. 285 

Quintessence of Mushrooms. — (No. 440.) 

This delicate relish is made by sprinklings a little salt over 
either flap or button mushrooms ; three hours after, mash 
them; next day, strain off the liquor that will flow from 
them ; put it into a stew-pan, and boil it till it is reduced to 
half. 

It will not keep long, but is preferable to any of the 
catchups, which, in order to preserve them, m.ust have spice, 
&c., which overpowers the flavour of the mushrooms. 

An artificial mushroom bed will supply this all the year 
round. 

To make sauce with this, see No. 307. 

Oyster Catchup. — (No. 441.) 

Take fine fresh Milton oysters ; wash them in their own 
liquor ; skim it ; pound them in a marble mortar ; to a pint of 
oysters add a pint of sherry ; boil them up, and add an ounce 
of salt, two drachms of pounded mace, and one of Cayenne ; 
let it just boil up again ; skim it, and rub it throug-h a sieve, 
and when cold, bottle it, cork it well, and seal it down. 

O65.— See also No. 280, and Obs. to No. 278. 

N.B. It is the best way to pound the salt and spices, &c. 
with the oysters. 

Obs. — This composition very agreeably heightens the 
flavour of white sauces, and white made-dishes ; and if you 
add a glass of brandy to it, it will keep good for a considera- 
ble time longer than oysters are out of season in England. 

Cockle and Muscle Catchup, — (No. 442.) 

May be made by treating them in the same way as the 
oysters in the preceding receipt. 

Pudding Catchup. — (No. 446.) 

Half a pint of brandy, "essence of punch" (No. 479), or 
** Cura90a" (No. 474), or " Noyeau," a pint of sherry, an 
ounce of thin-pared lemon-peel, half an oimce of mace, and 
sdeep them for fourteen days, then strain it, and add a 
quarter of a pint of capillaire, or No. 476. This will keep 
for years, and, mixed with melted butter, is a delicious relish 
to puddings and sweet dishes. See Pudding Sauce, No. 269, 
a^id the Justice's Orange Syrup, No. 392. 



286. POTATO FLOUR. 

Potato^ 5torc/i.— (No. 448.) 

Peel and wash a pound of full-grown potatoes, grate them 
on a bread-grater into a deep dish, containing- a quart of 
clear water ; stir it well up, and then pour it throug-h a hair- 
sieve, and leave it ten minutes to settle, till the water is quite 
clear: then pour oif the w^ater, and put a quart of fresh 
water to it ; stir it up, let it settle, and repeat this till the 
water is quite clear ; you will at last find a fine Avhite powder 
at the bottom of the vessel. (The criterion of this process 
being completed, is the purity of the water that comes from 
it after stirring- it up.) Lay this on a sheet of paper in a hair- 
sieve to dry, either in the sun or before the fire, and it is ready 
for use, and in a well-stopped bottle will keep good for many 
months. 

If this be well made, half an ounce {i. e. a table-spoonful) 
of it mixed with two table-spoonfuls of cold water, and stirred 
into a soup or sauce, just before you take it up, will thicken 
a pint of it to the consistence of cream. 

Obs. — This preparation much resembles the " Indian arrow 
root," and is a good substitute for it ; it gives a fulness on 
the palate to gravies and sauces at hardly any expense, and 
by some is used to thicken melted butter instead of flour. 

As it is perfectly tasteless, it will not alter the flavour of 
the most delicate broth, &c. 

Of the Flour of Potatoes. 

" A patent has been recently obtained at Pans, a gold medal 
bestowed, and other honorary distinctions granted, for the 
discoveiy and practice, on a large scale, of preparing from 
potatoes a fine flour ; a sago, a flour equal to ground rice ; 
and a semolina or paste, of which 1^6. is equal to 1-^/65. of 
rice, 11/65. of vermicelli, or, it is asserted, 8lbs. of raw po- 
tatoes. 

" These preparations are found valuable to mix with 
wheaten flour for bread, to make biscuits, pastry, pie-crusts, 
and for all soups, grucis, and panada. 

" Large engagements have been made for these prepara- 
tions with the French marine, and military and other hos- 
pitals, with the approbation of the faculty. 

* " Potatoes, In whatever condition, whether spoiled by frost, germination, <fec., 
provided they are raw, constantly afford starch, differing only in quality, the round 
gray o;ies the most; a pound producing about two ounces." — Parmentier on J^utri- 
tive Vegetables^ 8vo. p. 31. 

" lOOib. of potatoes yield 101b. of starch."— S. Gray's Svpplement to the Pharma- 
copmia, 8vo. 1821, p. 198. 



CURRY rOWDER. 287 

" An excellent bread, it is said, can be made of this flour, 
at half the cost of wheaten bread. 

" Heat having been applied in these preparations, the ar- 
ticles will keep unchanged for years, and on board ship, to 
China and back ; rats, mice, worms, and insects do not in- 
fect or destroy this flour. 

" Simply mixed with cold water, they are in ten minutes 
fit for food, when fire and all other resource may be wanted ; 
and twelve ounces are sufficient for a day's sustenance, in 
case of necessity. 

" The physicians and surgeons in the hospitals, in cases 
of great debility of the stomach, have employed these pre- 
parations with advantage. 

" The point of this discovery is, the cheapness of prepa- 
ration, and the conversion of a surplus growth of potatoes 
into a keeping stock, in an elegant, portable, and salubrious 
forai." 

Salad or piquante Sauce for cold Meat, Fish, ^c. — (No. 453.) 
See also No. 372. 

Pound together 

An ounce of scraped horseradish, 

Half an ounce of salt, 

A table-spoonful of made mustard. No. 370, 

Four drachms of minced eschalots. No. 409, 

Half a drachm of celeiy-seed. No. 409, 

And half ditto of Cayenne, No. 404, 

Adding gradually a pint of bumet (No. 399), or tarra- 
gon vinegar (No. 396), and let it stand in a jar a week, and 
then pass it through a sieve. 

Curry Powder. — (No. 455.) 

Put the following ingredients in a cool oven all night, and 
the next morning pound them in a marble mortar, and rub 
them through a fine sieve. 

d. 

Coriander-seed, three ounces 3 

Turmeric, three ounces 6 

Black pepper, mustard, and ginger, one ounce 

of each 8 

Allspice and less cardamoms, half an ounce 

of each 5 

Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce ... 1 
Thoroughly pound and mix together, and keep them in a 
well-stopped bottle. 



288 RAGOUT POWDER. 

Those who are fond of curry sauces, may steep three 
ounces of the powder in a quart of vinegar or white wine 
for ten days, and will get a liquor impregnated with all the 
flavour of the powder. 

Obs. — This receipt was an attempt to imitate some of the 
best Indian curry powder, selected for me by a friend at the 
India house : the flavour approximates to the Indian powder 
so exactly, the most profound palaticians have pronounced 
it a perfect copy of the original curry stuff. 

The following remark was sent to the editor by an East 
Indian friend. 

" The ingredients which you have selected to form the 
cuiTy powder, are the same as are used in India, with this 
difference only, that some of them are in a raw green state, 
and are mashed together, and afterward dried, powdered, 
and sifted." For Curry Sauce, see No. 348. 

N.B. Chickens, rabbits, sweetbreads, breasts of veal, veal 
cutlets, mutton, lamb, or pork chops, lobster, turbot, soles, 
eels, oysters, &c. are dressed curry fashion, see No. 497 ; or 
stew them in No. 329 or No. 348, and flavour with No. 455. 

Obs. — The common fault of curry powder is the too great 
proportion of Cayenne (to the milder aromatics from which 
its agreeable flavour is derived), preventing a sufficient quan- 
tity of the curry powder being used. 

Savoury ragout Powder. — (No. 457.) 

Salt, an ounce, 

Mustard, half an ounce. 

Allspice,* a quarter of an ounce. 

Black pepper gromid, and lemon-peel grated, or of No. 407, 
pounded and sifted fine, half an ounce each, 

Ginger, and 

Nutmeg grated, a quarter of an ounce each, 

Cayenne pepper, two drachms. 

Pound them patiently, and pass them through a fine hair- 
sieve; bottle them for "use. The above articles will pound 
easier and finer, if they are dried first in a Dutch ovenf before 
a very gentle fire, at a good distance from it ; if you give 
them much heat, the fine flavour of them will be presently 

* If you like the flavour, and do not dislike the expense, instead of allspice, put 
in mace and cloves. The above is very similar to the powder-fort used in King 
Richard the Second's kitchen, A. D. 1390. See " Peg-g-e Forme of Cury," p. xxx. 

t The back part of these ovens is so much hotter than that which is next the fire, 
that to dry things equally, their situation must be frequently changed, or those at 
the back of the oven will be done too much, before those in the front are done enougb. 



HORSERADISH POWDER, &.C. 289 

evaporated, and they will soon get a strong-, rank, empyreu- 
matic taste. 

N.B. Infused in a quart of vinegar or wine, they make a 
savoury relish for soups, sauces, &c. 

Obs. The spices in a ragout are indispensable to give it a 
flavour, but not a predominant one ; their presence should be 
rather supposed than perceived ; they are the invisible spirit 
of good cookery : indeed, a cook without spice would be as 
much at a loss as a confectioner without sugar: a happy 
mixture of them, and proportion to each other and the other 
ingredients, is the " chef-d'oeuvre" of a first-rate cook. 

The art q£ combining spices, &c., which may be termed 
the " hannony of flavours," no one hitherto has attempted 
to teach : and " the rule of thumb" is the only guide that 
experienced cooks have heretofore given for the assistance 
of the novice in the (till now, in these pages explained, and 
rendered, we hope, perfectly intelligible to the hmnblest ca- 
pacity) occult art of cookery. This is the first time re- 
ceipts in cookery have been given accurately by weight or 
measure ! ! ! 

(See 06.9. on " the education of a cook's tongue," pages 
52 and 53.) 

Pease Powder. — (No. 458.) 

Pound together in a marble mortar half an ounce each ol 
dried mint and sage, a drachm of celery-seed, and a quarter 
of a drachm of Cayenne pepper; rub them through a fine 
sieve. This gives a very savoury relish to pease soup, and 
to water gruel, which, by its help, if the eater of it has not 
the most lively imagination, he may fancy he is sipping good 
pease soup. 

06s. — A drachm of allspice, or black pepper, may be 
pounded with the above as an addition, or instead of the 
Cayenne. 

Horseradish Powder. — (No. 458*.) 

The time to make^this is during November and December; 
slice it the thickness of a shilling, and lay it to dry very 
gradually in a Dutch oven (a strong heat soon evaporates its 
flavour) ; when dry enough, pound it and bottle it. 

06s. See Horseradish Vinegar (No. 399*). 

Soup-herb Powder, or Vegetable Relish. — (No. 459.) 

Dried parsley, 

Bb 



290 TO DRY SWEET HERBS. 

Winter savouiy, 

Sweet marjoram, 

Lemon-thyme, of each two ounces ; 

Lemon-peel, cut very thin, and dried, and 

Sweet basil, an ounce of each. 

*^* Some add to the above bay-leaves and celery-seed, a 
drachm each. 

Dry them in a M^arm, but not too hot Dutch oven : when 
quite dried, pound them in a mortar, and pass them through 
a double hair-sieve ; put them in a bottle closely stopped, 
they will retain their fragrance and flavour for several 
months. 

N.B. These herbs are in full perfection in July and Au- 
gust (see No. 461*). An infusion of the above in vinegar or 
wine makes a good relishing sauce, but the flavour is best 
when made with fresh-gathered herbs, as directed in No. 
397. 

Obs. This composition of the fine aromatic herbs is an 
invaluable acquisition to. the cook in those seasons or situa- 
tions Mdien fresh herbs cannot be had ; and we prefer it to 
the ragout powder, No. 457 : it impregnates sauce, soup, &c. 
with as much relish, and renders it agreeable to the palate, 
and refreshes the gustatory nerves, v/ithout so much risk of 
offending the stomach, &c. 

Soup-herb and Savoury Pozvcler, or Quintessence of 
Ragout.— {No. 460.) 

Take three parts of soup-herb powder (No. 459) to one 
part of savoury powder. No. 457. 

Obs. This agreeable combination of the aromatic spices 
and herbs should be kept ready prepared : it will save a 
great deal of time in cooking ragouts, stuffings, forcemeat- 
balls, soups, sauces, &c. ; kept dry, and tightly corked down, 
its fragrance and strength may be preserv^ed imdiminished 
for some time. 

N.B. Tliree ounces of the above will impregnate a quart 
of vinegar or wine with a very agreeable relish. 

To Dry sweet and savoury Herbs. — (No. 461.) 

For the following accurate and valuable information, the 
reader is indebted to Mr. Butler, herbalist and seedsman 
(opposite Henrietta Street), Covent Garden market. 

" It is very important to those who are not in the constant 
liabit of attending the markets to kno^v^ when the various 
seasons conmience foi purciiasing sweet herbs. 



TO DRY SWEET HERBS. 291 

" All veg-etables are in the highest state of perfection, and 
fullest of juice and flavour, just before they begin to flower : 
the first and last crop have neither the fine flavour, nor the 
perfume of those which are gathered in the height of the 
season ; that is, when the greater part of the crop of each 
species is ripe. 

" Take care they are gathered on a dry day, by which 
means they will have a better colour when dried. Cleanse 
your herbs Avell from dirt and dust ;* cut off" the roots ; sepa- 
rate the bunches into smaller ones, and dry them by the heat 
of a stove, or in a Dutch oven before a common fire, in such 
quantities at a time, that the process may be speedily finished ; 
i. e. ' Kill 'em quick,' says a great botanist ; by this means 
their flavour will be best preserved: there can be no doubt of 
the propriety of drying herbs, &c. hastily by the aid of arti- 
ficial heat, rather than by the heat of the sun. In the ap- 
plication of artificial heat, the only caution requisite is to 
avoid burning ; and of this a sufficient test is afforded by 
the preservation of the colour." The common custom is, 
\vhen they are perfectly dried to put them in bags, and lay 
them in a dry place ; but, the best way to preserve the 
flavour of aromatic plants is to pick off" the leaves as soon 
as they are dried, and to pound them, and put them through 
a hair-sieve, and keep them in well-stopped bottles. f See 
No. 459. 

Basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of 
August, and three weeks after, see No. 397. 

Knotted marjoram, from the beginning of July, and during 
the same. 

Winter savoury, the latter end of July, and throughout 
August, see Obs. to No. 397. 

Summer savouiy, the latter end of July, and throughout 
August. 

Thvme, lemon-thyme, orange-thyme,| during June and 
July. 

Mint, latter end of June, and during July, see No. 398. 

Sage, August and September. 

Tarragon, June, July, and August, see No. 396. 

Chervil, May, Jmie, and July, see No. 264. 

* This is sadlj' neglected l)y those who dry herbs for sale. If you buy them ready 
dried, before you pound tiieiii, cle.inse them from dirt and dust by stripping the 
leaves from the stalks, and rub them between your hands over a hair-sieve ; put 
tliem into the sieve, and shake them well, and the dust will go through. 

t The common custom is to put them into paper bags, and lay them on a shell 
ill the kitchen, exposed to all the fumes, steam, and smoke, &c. : thus they soon lose 
tlieir flavour. 

i A delicious herb, thai deserves to be better known. 



292 



MAGAZINE OF TASTE 



Burnet, June, July, and August, see No. 399. 

Parsley, May, June, and July, see N.B. to No. 261. 

Fennel, May, June, and July. 

Elder flowers, May, June, and July. 

Orange flowers. May, June, and July. 

N.B. Herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable substitute 
when fresh ones cannot be got ; but, however carefully dried, 
the flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs are incomparably 
finer. 

THE MAGAZINE OF TASTE.— (No. 462.) 

This is a convenient auxiliary to the cook : it may be 
arranged as a pyramidical epergne for a dormant in the centre 
of the table, or as a travelling store-chest. 

The following sketch will enable any one to fit up an 
assortment of flavouring materials according to their own 
fancy and palate ; and, we presume, will furnish suflicicnt 
variety for the amusement of the gustatory nerves of a iho- 
roVig\i-\)T:eA grand gourmand of the first magnitude (if Cayenne 
and garlic have not completely consumed the sensibility of 
his palate), and consists of a " Sauce-box," containing four 
eight-ounce bottles,* sixteen four ounce, and eight two-ounce 
bottles : — 



Pickles. 

Brandy. 

Curagoa (No. 474). 

Syrup (No. 475). 

Salad sauce (Nos. 372 and 453). 

Pudding catchup (No. 446). 

Sauce superlative, or douljle relish 

(No. 429). 
Walnut pickle. 
Mushroom catchup (No. 439). 
Vinegar. 
Oil. 

Mustard (see Nos. 370 and 427). 
Salt (see No. 371). 
Curry powder (No. 455). 



15. Poy (No. 436). 

16. Lemon-juice. 

17. Essence of anchovy (No. 433). 

18. Pepper. 

19. Cayenne (No. 405, or No. 406), 

20. Soup-herb powder (No. 459). 

21. Ragout powder (No. 457) 

22. Pease powder (No. 458). 

23. Zest (No. 255). 

24. Essence of celery (No. 409). 

25. Sweet herbs (No. 419). 

26. Lemon-peel (No. 408). 

27. Eschalot wine (No. 402). 

28. Powdered mint. 



In a drawer wider. 



Half a dozen one ounce bottles. 

Weights and scales. 

A graduated glass measure, divided into 

tea and table-spoons. 
Corkscrew. 



Nutmeg-grater. 
Table and tea-spoon. 
Knife and fork. 
A steel, and a 
Small mortar. 



* If the bottles are square, and marked to quarter ounces, as Lynk's g-aduated 
measures are, it will save trouble in compounding. 



TOAST AND WATER, 



293 



1 


5 


13 


21 


6 


14 


22 


2 


7 


15 


23 


8 


16 


24 


3 


9 


17 


25 


10 


18 


26 


4 


11 


19 


27 


12 


20 


28 



N.B. The portable magazine of taste, alluded to in page 44, 
may be furnished with a four-ounce bottle for Cognac (No. 
471), a ditto for Cura§oa (No. 474), an ounce bottle for 
essence of anchovy (No. 433), and one of like size for mush- 
room catchup. 

Toast and Water.— {No. 463.) 

Cut a crust of bread off a stale loaf, about twice the thick- 
ness toast is usually cut : toast it carefully until it be com- 
pletely browned all over, but not at all blackened or burnt ; 
pour as much boiling water as you wish to make into drink, 
into the jug ; put the toast into it, and let it stand till it is 
quite cold : the fresher it is the better. 

Obs. — A roll of thin fresh-cut lemon, or dried orange-peel, 
or some currant-jelly (No. 475*), apples sliced or roasted, 
&c. infused with the bread, are grateful additions. N.B. If 
the boiling water be poured on the bread it will break it, and 
make the drink grouty. 

N.B. This is a refreshing summer drink; and when the 
proportion of the fluids is destroyed by profuse perspiration, 
may be drunk plentifully. Let a large jug be made early in 
the day, it will then become warmed by the heat of the air, 
and may be drunk without danger; which water, cold as it 
comes from the M'^ell, cannot in hot weather. Or, 

To make it more expeditiously, put the bread into a mug, 
and just cover it with boiling water; let it stand till cold, 

Bb2 



294 TEWAHDIDDLE. 

then fill it up with cold spring-water, and pour it through a 
fine sieve. 

Obs. — The above is a pleasant and excellent beverage, 
grateful to the stomach, and deserves a constant place by the 
bed-side. 

Cool Tankard, or Beer Cup, — (No. 464.) 

A quart of mild ale, a glass of white wine, one of brandy, 
one of capillaire, the juice of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared 
thin, nutmeg grated at the top (a sprig of borrage* or balm), 
and a bit of toasted bread. 

Cider Cup —(No. 465.) 
Is the same, only substituting cider for beer. 

Flip.— (No. 466.) 

Keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried 
lemon-peel, rubbed together in a mortar. 

To make a quart of flip : — Put the ale on the fire to warm, 
and beat up three or four eggs, with four ounces of moist 
sugar, a tea-spoonful of grated nutmeg or ginger, and a 
quartern of good old rum or brandy. When the ale is near 
to boil, put it into one pitcher, and the rum and eggs, &c. 
into another ; turn it from one pitcher to another till it is as 
smooth as cream. 

N.B. This quantity I styled one yard of flannel. 

Obs. — The above is set down in the w^ords of the publican 
who gave us the receipt. 

Tewahdiddle.—{No. 467.) 

A pint of table beer (or ale, if you intend it for a supple- 
ment to your " night cap"), a table-spoonful of brandy, and a 
tea-spoonful of brown sugar, or clarified syrup (No. 475) ; a 
little grated nutmeg or ginger may be added, and a roll of 
very thin-cut lemon-peel. 

Obs. — Before our readers make any remarks on this com- 
position, we beg of them to taste it : if the materials are 
good, and their palate vibrates in unison with our own, they 

* " Borrage is one of the four cordial flowers ;" it comforts the heart, cheers 
melancholy, and revives the fainting spirits, says Salmon, in the 45th page of his 
" Household Cornpanion,^^ London, 1710. And Evelyn, in page 13 of his .^cetarz'a, 
says, "The sprigs in wine are of known virtue to revive the hypochondriac, and 
cheer the hard student." — Combined with the ingredients in the above receipt, we 
have frequently observed it produce all the cardiac and exhilarating effects as- 
cribed to it. 



ElCn RASPBERRY MINE OR BRANDY. 295 

^vill find it one of the pleasantest beverages they ever put to 
their lips ; and, as Lord Riithven says, " this is a right gos- 
sip's cup that far exceeds all the ale that ever Mother Bunch 
made in her life-time." See his Lordship's Experiments in 
Cookery, &c. 18mo. London, 1654, p. 215. 

Sir Fleetwood Shephercfs Sack Posset. — (No. 467*.) 

"From famed Barbadoes, on the western main, 
Fetch sugar, ounces tour — fetch sack from Spain, 
A pint, — and from the eastern Indian coast 
Nutmeg, the glory of our nortiiern toast ; 
O'er flaming coals let them together heat, 
Till the all-conquering sack dissolve the sweet ; 
O'er such another fire put ejrgs just ten. 
New-born from tread of cock and rump of hen: 
Stir them with steady hand and conscience pricking 
To s€ft the untimely end of ten tine chicken : 
From shining shelf take down the brazen skillet, — 
A quart of milk from gentle cow will fill it. 
Wlien boiled and cold, put milk and sack to eggs, 
Unite them firmly like the triple league, 
And on the fire let them together dwell 
Till Miss sing twice — you must not kiss and tell — 
Each lad and lass take up a silver spoon, 
And fal! en fiercely like a starved dragoon." 

To bottle Beer.— [No, 4G8.) 

When the briskness and liveliness of malt liquors in the 
cask fail, and they become dead and vapid, which they 
generally do soon after they are tilted ; let them be bottled. 

Be careful to use clean and dried bottles ; leave them un- 
stopped for twelve hours, and then cork them as closely as 
possible with good and sound new corks ; put a bit of lump 
sugar as big as a nutmeg into each bottle : the beer will be 
ripe, i. e. fine and sparkling, in about four or five weeks : if 
the weather is cold, to put it up the day before it is drunk, 
place it in a room where there is a fire. 

Remember there is a sediment, &c. at the bottom of the 
bottles, which you must carefully avoid disturbing ; so pour 
it off at once, leaving a wine-glassful at the bottom. 

\* If beer becomes hard or stale, a few grains of carbonate 
of potash added to it at the time it is drunk will correct it, 
and make draught beer as brisk as bottled ale. 

Rich Raspberry Wine or Brandy. — (No. 469.) 

Bruise the finest ripe raspberries with the back of a spoon; 
strain them through a flanuel bag into a stone jar, allowing 
a pound of fine powdered loaf sugar to each quart of juice ; 
stir it well together, and cover it down ; let it stand for three 



296 TO MAKE CURA90A. 

days, stirring- it up each day ; pour off the clear, and put two 
quarts of sherry, or one of Cognac brandy, to each quart of 
juice ; bottle it off: it will be fit for the glass in a fortnight. 
N.B. Or make it with the jelly. No. 479. 

Ldqueurs. — (No. 471.) 

We have very little to tell from our own experience, and 
refer our reader to " Nouvelle Chimie du Gout et de VOdorat, 
ou fArt du Distillatenr, du Confiseur, et du Parftuneur, mis a la 
port^e de tout le Monde.'''' Paris, 2 torn. 8vo. 1819. 

Next to teaching how to make good things at home, is the 
information where those things may be procured ready made 
of the best quality. 

It is in vain to attempt to imitate the best foreign liqueurs, 
unless M^e can obtain the pure vinous spirit with which they 
are made. 

Johnson and Co., foreign liqueur and brandy merchants to 
his majesty and the royal family. No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall, 
are justly famous for importing of the best quality, and sell- 
ing in a genuine state, seventy-one varieties of foreign 
liqueurs, &c. 

Curaqoa. — (No. 474.) 

Put five ounces of thin-cut Seville orange-peel, that has 
been dried and pounded, or, which is still better, of the fresh 
peel of a fresh shaddock, which may be bought at the orange 
and lemon shops in the beginning of March, into a quart of 
the finest and cleanest rectified spirit ; after it has been 
infused a fortnight, strain it, and add a quart of syrup (No. 
475), and filter. See the following receipt : 

To make a Quart of Curaqoa. 

To a pint of the cleanest and strongest rectified spirit, add 
two drachms and a half of the sweet oil of orange-peel; 
shake it up : dissolve a pound of good lump sugar in a -pint 
of cold water ; make this into a clarified syrup (No. 475) ; 
which add to the spirit : shake it up, and let it stand till the 
following day : then line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and 
that with filtering-paper, and filter it two or three times till 
it is quite bright. This liqueur is an admirable cordial ; and 
a tea-spoonful in a tumbler of water is a very refreshing 
summer drink, and a great improvement to punch. 



''■ LEMONADE IN A MINUTE. 297 

U.. 

Clarified Syrup. — (No. 475.) 

Break into bits two pounds (avoirdupois) of double refined 
iump sugar, and put it into a clean stew-pan (that is well 
tinned), with a pint of cold spring-water ; when the sugar is 
dissolved, set it over a moderate fire : beat about half the 
white of an egg, put it to the sugar before it gets warm, and 
stir it well together. Watch it ; and when it boils take off 
the scum ; keep it boiling till no scum rises, and it is perfectly 
clear; then run it through a clean napkin : put it into a close 
stopped bottle ; it will keep for months, and is an elegant 
article on the sideboard for sweetening. 

Obs. — The proportion of sugar ordered in the above syrup is 
a quarter pound more than that directed in the Pharmacopoeia 
of the London College of Physicians. The quantity of sugar 
must be as much as the liquor is capable of keeping dissolved 
when cold, or it will ferment, and quickly spoil : if kept in a 
temperate degree of heat, the above proportion of sugar may 
be considered the basis of all syrups. 

Capillaire. — (No. 476.) 

To a pint of clarified syrup add a wine-glass of Curagoa 
(No. 474) ; or dissolve a drachm of oil of Neroli in two 
ounces of rectified spirit, and add a few drops of it to clari- 
fied syi'up. 

Lemonade in a Minute. — (No. 477.) 

Pound a qrarter of an ounce (avoirdupois) of citric, t. e. 
crystallized lemon acid,* with a few drops of quintessence 
of lemon-peel (No. 408), and mix it by degrees with a pint 
of clarified syrup (No. 475), or capillaire. 

For superlative sj^rup of lemons, see No. 391. 

Obs. — The proportion of acid to the syrup, was that 
selected (from several specimens) by the committee of taste. 
We advise those who are disposed to verify our receipt, to 
mix only three quarters of a pint of syrup first, and add the 
other quarter if they find it too acid. 

If you have none of No. 408, flavour your syrup with thin- 
cut lemon-peel, or use syrup of lemon-peel (No. 393). 

A table-spoonful of this in a pint of water will immediately 
produce a very agreeable sherbet ; the addition of rum or 
brandy will convert tliis into 

* Tartaric is only half the price of citric acid ; but it is very inferior in flavour, 
ice. ; and those who prepare this syrup for home consunjption, will always use 
ttie citric. 



298 CURRANT, GRAPE, &C. JELLY. 

Punch directly. — (No. 478.) 

Shrub, or Essence of Punch. — (No. 479.) 

Brandy or rum, flavoured ^vith No. 477, will give you very 
good extempore " essence of punch." 

0^5. — The addition of a quart of Sheriy or Madeira makes 
" punch royal ;" if, instead of wine, the above quantity of 
water be added, it will make " punch for chambermaids," 
according to Salmon's Cookery, 8vo. London, 1710. See 
page 405 ; and No. 268 in Nott's Cook's Dictionary, 8vo. 1724. 

White, Red, or Black Currant, Grape, Raspberry, ^c. Jelly.* 

(No. 479*.) 

Are all made precisely in the same manner. When the 
fruit is full ripe, gather it on a dry day : as soon as it is nicely 
picked, put it into a jar, and cover it down very close. 

Set the jar in a saucepan about three parts filled with cold 
water ; put it on a gentle fire, and let it simmer for about 
half an hour. Take the pan from the fire,, and pour the con- 
tents of the jar into a jelly-bag: pass the juice through a 
second time ; do not squeeze the bag. 

To each pint of juice add a pound and a half of very good 
lump sugar pounded ; v»'hen it is dissolved, put it into a pre- 
serving-pan ; set it on the fire, and boil gently ; stirring and 
skimming it the whole time (about thirty or forty minutes), 
i. e. till no more scum rises, and it is perfectly clear and fine : 
pour it while Avarm into pots ; and when cold, cover them 
with paper wetted in brandy. 

Half a pint of this jelly, dissolved in a pint of brandy or 
vinegar, will give 5'ou excellent currant or raspberry brandy 
or vinegar. To make sweet sauce, see No. 346. 

Obs. — Jellies from other fruits are made in the same way^ 
and camiot be preserved in perfection without plenty of good 
sugar. 

Those who wish jelly to turn out very stiff, dissolve isin- 
glass in a little water, strain through a sieve, and add it in the 
proportion of half an ounce to a pint of juice, and put it in 
with the sugar. 

The best way is the cheapest. Jellies made with too small 
a proportion of sugar, require boiling so long ; there is much 
more waste of juice and flavour by evaporation than the due 
quantity of sugar costs ; and they neither look nor taste half 

* The native blackherry of this country makes a very fine jelly, and is medicinal 
in bowel complaints of ctiildren. A. 



CALVES'-FEET JELLY. 299 

SO delicate, as when made with a proper proportion of sugar, 
and moderate boiling. 

Mock Arrack.— {No. 480.) 

Dissolve two scruples of flowers of benjamin in a quart 
of good rum, and it will immediately impart to it the inviting 
fragrance of " Vauxhall nectar." 

Calves' -Feet Jelly.— {No. 481.) 

Take four calves' feet (not those which are sold at tripe- 
shops, which have been boiled till almost all the gelatine is 
extracted ; but buy them at the butcher's), slit them in two, 
take away the fat from between the claws, wash them well 
in lukewarm water ; then put them in a large stew-pan, and 
cover them Avith water : when the liquor boils, skim it well, 
and let if boil gently six or seven hours, that it may be 
reduced to about two quarts ; then strain it through a sieve, 
and skim off all the oily substance which is on the surface 
of the liquor. 

If you are not in a hurry, it is better to boil the calves' feet 
the day before you make the jelly ; as when the liquor is cold, 
the oily part being at the top, and the other being firm, with 
pieces of kitchen paper applied to it, you may remove every 
particle of the oily substance, without wasting any of the 
liquor. 

Put the liquor in a stew-pan to melt, with a pound of lump 
sugar, the peel of two lemons, the juice of six, six whites 
and shells of eggs beat together, and a bottle of sherry or 
Madeira; whisk the whole together until it is on the boil; 
then put it by the side of the stove, and let it simmer a quarter 
of an hour; strain it through a jelly-bag: what is strained 
first must be poured into the bag again, until it is as bright 
and as clear as rock-water; then put the jelly in moulds, to 
be cold and firm: if the weather is too warm, it requires 
some ice. 

Obs. — When it is wished to be very stiff, half an ounce of 
isinglass may be added when the wine is put in. 

It may be flavoured by the juice of various fruits, and 
spices, &c. and coloured with saffron, cochineal, red beet 
juice, spinage juice, claret, &c.; and it is sometimes made 
with cherry brandy, or noyeau rouge, or Cura90a (No. 474), 
or essence of punch (No. 479), instead of wine. 

N.B. Ten shank bones of mutton, which may be bought 
for 2^d., will give as much jelly as a calf's foot, which costs 
a shilling. See pages 225, 226 of this Avork. 



300 MADE DISHES, &.C. 



MADE DISHES, &C. 

Receipts for economical Made Dishes, written for the Cook's 
Oracle, by an accomplished English Lady. — (No. 483.) 

These experiments have arisen from my aversion to cold 
meat, and my preference for what are termed French dishes ; 
with which, by a certain management, I think I can furnish 
my table at far less expense than is generally incurred in 
getting up a plain dinner. 

Gravy or soup meats I never buy ; and yet am seldom 
without a good provision of what is technically denominated 
stock. 

When, as it frequently happens, we have ham dressed ; if 
the joint be above the weight of seven pounds, I have it cut 
in half, and prepared in the following manner : first, ensure 
that it has been properly soaked, scraped, and cleaned to a 
nicety ; then put it into an earthen vessel, as near its own 
size as possible, with just as much water as will cover it; to 
which add four onions, a clove of garlic, half a dozen escha- 
lots, a bay-leaf, a bunch of sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, 
a few peppercorns and allspice : this should be well closed, 
and kept simmering about three hours. It is then served 
with raspings or with glazing, the rind having first been 
taken off neatly. The liquor is strained, and kept till poul- 
try of any sort, or meat, is boiled ; when the liquor in which 
they have been dressed should be added to it, and boiled down 
fast till reduced to about three pints ; when cold, it will be a 
highly flavoured, well-coloured jelly,* and ready for sauce 
for all kinds of ragouts and hashes, &c. &c. 

A fillet of veal I divide into three parts ; the meat before 
it is skewered, will of itself indicate where the partition is 
natural, and will pull asunder as you would quarter an 
orange ; the largest piece should be stuffed Avith No. 374 or 
No. 375, and rolled up, compactly skewered, &c., and makes 
a very pretty small fillet : the square flat piece will either 
cut into cutlets (No. 90, or No. 521), or slice for a pie ; and 
the thick piece must be well larded and dressed as a frican- 
deau ; which I do in the following manner : put the larded 
veal into a stew-pan just big enough to contain it, with as 
much water as will cover it ; when it has simmered till deli- 

* Thia may be still longer preserved by the process directed in No. 252. 



MADE DISHES, &:,C. 301 

cately white, and so tender as to be cut with a spoon, it must 
be taken out of the water and set apart ; and it will be ready 
to serve up either with sorrel, tomata, mushrooms (No. 305, 
or No. 439), or some of the above-mentioned stock, the 
fricandeau being- previously coloured Avith glazing-; if with 
mushrooms, they should be first parboiled in salt and vinegar, 
and water, which gives them flavour, and keeps them of a 
good colour. 

The sirloin of beef I likewise divide into three parts ; I 
first have it nicely boned. 

The under part, or fillet, as the French call it, will dress 
(when cut into slices) excellently, either as plain steaks (No. 
94), curry (No. 197), or it may be larded whole, and gently 
stewed in two quarts of water (a bay-leaf, two onions, their 
skins roasted brown, four cloves, allspice, &c. &c.) till tender, 
when it should be taken out, drained quite dry, and put away; 
it is then ready to be used at any time in the following 
manner : season and dredge it v/ell, then put it into a stew-- 
pan in which a piece of butter has been previously fried to a 
fine froth ; when the meat is sufficiently brown, take it out, 
and throw into the pan half a dozen middle-sized onions, to 
do a fine gold colour ; that accomplished, (during which the 
dredger should be in constant use,) add half a pint of stock, 
and a tea-spoonful of tarragon vinegar (No. 39f)), and let 
the onions stew gently till nearly tender : the beef should 
then be returned to the stew-pan, and the whole suffered to 
simmer till the meat is warm through : care must be taken 
that the onions do not break, and they should be served 
round the beef Avith as much sauce as Mill look graceful in 
the dish. The fillet is likewise very good without the fried 
onions ; in that case you should chop and mix up together 
an eschalot, some parsley, a few capers, and the yelk of 
a hard egg, and strew them lightly over the surface of the 
beef. 

The fat end of the sirloin and bones should be put to 
simmer in the liquor in which the fillet was first stewed, and 
done till the beef looks loose ; it should then be put away 
into a deep vessel, and tlie soup strained over it, which 
cooling with the fat upon the top (thereby excluding the air), 
will keep as long as may be required : when the soup is to 
be used, the fat must be cleared from it ; a carrot, parsnip, 
1. head of celery, a leek, and three turnips, cleaned and 
scalded, should be added to it, and the whole suffered to 
simmer gentl}' lill the vegetables are quite done, when they 
must be strained from the liquor, and the soup served up with 
large square thick pieces of toasted bread. 

Cc 



302 MADE DISHES, &C. 

Those who like a plain boiiilli warm the beef in the soup, 
and serve it up with the turnips and carrots which had been 
strained before from the soup. A white cabbage quartered 
is no bad addition to the garnish of the bouilli, or to the 
flavour of the soup. If it is a dressed bouilli, sliced carrots 
and button onions should be stowed in thickened stock, and 
poured over the meat. 

A neck of mutton boned, sprinkled with dried sage, pow- 
dered fine, or (No. 378) seasoned, rolled, and roasted, is very 
good. The bones and scrag make excellent gravy stewed 
down, and if done very gently, the meat is not bad eating. 
The same herbs should be put to it as to other stocks, with 
the addition of a carrot ; this will make very good mutton 
broth. In short, wherever there are bones or trimmings to 
be got out of any meat that is dressed in my kitchen, they 
are made to contribute towards soup oj* gravy, or No. 252. 

Instead of roasting a hare, (which at best is but dry food), 
stew it, if young, plain ; if an old one, lard it. The shoulders 
and legs should be taken off, and the back cut into three 
pieces ; these, with a bay-leaf, half a dozen eschalots, one 
onion pierced with four cloves, should be laid with as much 
good vinegar as will cover them, for twenty-four hours, in a 
deep dish. In the mean time, the head, neck, ribs, liver, 
heart, &c. &c. should be browned in frothed butter well 
seasoned ; add half a pound of lean bacon, cut into small 
pieces, a large bunch of herbs, a carrot, and a few allspice ; 
simmer these in a quart of water till it be reduced to about 
half the quantity, when it should be strained, and those 
parts of the hare which have been infused in the vinegar, 
should (with the w^hole contents of the dish) be added to it, 
and stewed till quite done. Those who like onions may 
brown half a dozen, stew them in a part of the gravy, and 
dish them round the hare. 

When it comes from the table, supposing some to be left, 
the meat should be taken from the bones, and with a few 
forcemeat balls, the remains of the gravy, about a quarter of 
a pint of red wine, and a proportionable quantity of water, 
it will make a very pretty soup; to those who have no objec- 
tion to catchup (No. 439,) a spoonful in the original gravy is 
an improvement, as indeed it is in every made dish, where 
the mushroom itself is not at command. 

Every ragout, in my opinion, should be dressed the day 
before it is wanted, that any fat which has escaped the 
skimming spoon, may with ease be taken off when cold. 

Calf's head. — Take the half of one, with the skin on ; 
put it into a large stew-pan, with as much water as will 



MADE DISHES, &,€. 303 

cover it, a knuckle of ham, and the usual accompaniments of 
onions, herbs, &c. &;c., and let it simmer till the flesh may 
be separated from the bone with a spoon ; do so, and while 
still hot, cut it into as large a sized square as the piece will 
admit of; the trimmings and half the liquor put by in a 
tureen ; to the remaining half add a gill of Mdiite wine, and 
reduce the whole of that by quir-k boiling till it is again ]ialf 
consumed, when it should be poured over the large square 
piece in an earthen vessel, surrounded with mushrooms, v/hite 
button onions, small pieces of pickled pork, half an inch in 
breadth, and one and a half in length, and the tongue in 
slices, and simmered till the whole is fit to serve up ; some 
broAvned forcemeat balls are a pretty addition. After 
this comes from the table, the remains should be cut 
into small pieces, and mixed up with the trimmings and 
liquor, which (with a little more wine), properly thick- 
ened, will make a very good mock turtle soup for a future 
occasion. 

To hash Mutton, 4-c.— (No. 484.) 

Cut the meat into slices, about the thickness of tw^o shil- 
lings, trim oif all the sinews, skin, gristle, &c. ; put in 
nothing but Avhat is to be eaten, lay them on a plate, ready ; 
prepare your sauce to warm it in, as receipt (No. 360, or No. 
451, or No. 486), put in the meat, and let it simmer gently 
till it is thoroughly warm: do not let it boil, as that will 
make the meat tough and hard,* and it will be, as Joan 
Cromwellf has it, a harsh. 

Obs. — Select for your hash those parts of the joint that 
are least done. 

Mem. — Hashing is a mode of cookery by no means suited 
to delicate stomachs : unless the meat, &c. be considerably 
under-done the first time, a second dressing must spoil it, for 
what is done enough the first time, must be done too much 
the second. 

* Hashes and meats dressed a second time, should only simmer gently till just 
warm through ; it is supposed they have been done very nearly, if not quite enough, 
already ; select those parts of the joint that have been least done. 

In making a hash from a leg of mutton, do not destroy the maiTOw-bone to help 
the gravy of your hash, to which it will make no perceptible addition ; but saw it 
in two, twist writing-paper round the ends, and send it up on a plate as a side dish, 
garnished with sprigs of parsley : if it is a roast leg, preserve the end bone, and send 
it up between the marrow-hones. This is a very pretty luncheon, or supper dish. 

t See " The Court and Kitchen 0/ Elizabeth, commonly called Joan Cromwell,'* 
16mo. London, 1(564, page 106. 



304 MADE DISHES, &LC. 

To warm Hashes* Made Dishes, Stezas, Ragouts, Soups, ^c.-— 

(No. 485.) 

Put what you have left into a deep hash-dish or tureen ; 
when you v/ant it, set this in a stew-pan of boiling water : 
let it stand till the contents are quite warm. 

To hash Beef, 4'C.— (No. 486.) 

Put a pint and a half of broth, or water, with an ounce of 
No. 252, or a large table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, into 
a stew-pan with the gravy you have saved that was left from 
the beef, and put in a quarter ounce of onion sliced very fine, 
and boil it about ten minutes ; put a large table-spoonful of 
flour into a basin, just wet it with a little water, mix it well 
together, and then stir it into the broth, and give it a boil for 
five or ten minutes ; rub it through a sieve, and it is ready to 
receive the beef, &c ; let it stand by the side of the fire till 
the meat is warm. 

N.B. A tea-spoonful of parsley chopped as fine as possible 
and put in five- minutes before it is served up, is a great 
addition ; others like half a wine-glass of port wine, and a 
dessert-spoonful of currant jelly. 

See also No. 360, Avhich will show you every variety of 
manner of making and flavouring the most highly finished 
hash sauce, and Nos. 484, 485, and 506. 

Cold Meat broiled, with Poached Eggs. — (No. 487.) 

The inside of a sirloin of beef is best for this dish, or a 
leg of mutton. Cut the slices of even and equal thickness, 
and broil and brown them carefully and slightly over a clear 
smart fire, or in a Dutch oven ; give those slices most fire 
that are least done ; lay them in a dish before the fire to keep 
hot, while j^ou poach the eggs, as directed in No. 546, and 
mashed potatoes (No. 106). 

* The ^^ bain-marie,''' or water-bath (see note to No. 529\ is the best utensil to 
warm up made dislies, and things that have been already sufficiently dressed, as it 
neitlicr consumes tlie sauce, nor hardens the meat. If you have not a water-bath, 
a Dutch oven will sometimes supply the place of it. 

" Bain-marie is a flat vessel containing boiling water ; you put all yonr stew-pang 
into the water, and keep that water always very hot, but it must not boil : the 
effect of this bain-marie is to k^'ep every thing warm without altering either the 
quantity or the quality, particularly the quality. When I had the honour of serving 
a nobleman, who kept a very extensive hunting establishment, and the hour of 
dinner was consequently uncertain, I was in the habit of using bain-marie^ as a 
certain means of preset viiiir the flavour of all my dishes. If you keep your sauce, 
or broth, or soup, by the fireside, the soup reduces, and becomes too strong, and the 
sauce thickens as well as reduces. This is the best way of warming turtle, or mock 
turtle soup, as the thick part is always at the bottom, and this metliod prevents il 
from burning, and keeps it always good." — Ude's Cookery, page 18. 



MADE DISHES. &LC. 305 

Oos. — This makes a savoury luncheon or supper, but is 
more relishing- than nourishing-, unless the meat was under- 
done the first time it was dressed. 

No. 307 for sauce, to which some add a few drops of 
eschalot wine or vineg-ar. See No. 402, or No. 439, or No. 
359, warmed ; or Grill Sauce (No. 355.) 

Mrs. Phillips's Irish Sterv. — (No. 488.) 

Take five thick mutton chops, or two pounds off the neck 
or loin *, two pounds of potatoes ; peel them, and cut them 
in halves ; six onions, or half a pound of onions ; peel and 
slice them also : first put a layer of potatoes at the bottom 
of your stew-pan, then a couple of chops and some of the 
onions ; then ag-ain potatoes, and so on, till the pan is quite 
full ; a small spoonful of white pepper, and about one and a 
half of salt, and three g-ills of broth or gravy, and two tea- 
spoonfuls of mushroom catchup ; cover all veiy close in, so 
as to prevent the steam from getting out, and let them stew 
for an hour and a half on a very slow fire. A small slice of 
ham is a great addition to this dish. The cook will be the 
best judge when it is done, as a great deal depends on the fire 
you have. 

N.B. Great care must be taken not to let it burn, and that 
it does not do too fast. 

To make an Irish Steis), or Hunter^s Pie. 

Take part of a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, season 
it well, put it into a stew-pan, let it brase for half an hour, 
take two dozen of potatoes, boil them, mash them, and 
season them, butter your mould, and line it with the 
potatoes, put in the mutton, bake it for half an hour, then 
it will be done, cut a hole in the top, and add some good 
gravy to it. 

N.B. The above is the contribution of Mr. Morrison, of 
the Leinster hotel, Dublin. 

A good Scotch Haggis.— {No. 488*.) 

Make the haggis-bag perfectly clean ; parboil the draught ; 
boil the liver very well, so as it will grate ; dry the meal 
before the fire ; mince the draught and a pretty large piece 
of beef very small; grate about half of the liver; mince 
plenty of the suet and some onions small; mix all these 
materials very well together, with a handful or two of the 
dried meal; spread them on the table, and season them 

Cc2 



306 MADE DISHES, &LC. 

properly with salt and mixed spices ; take any of the scraps 
of beef that are left from mincing-, and some of the water 
that boiled the draught, and make about a choppin {{. e. 
a quart) of good stock of it ; then put all the haggis meat 
into the bag, and that broth in it; then sew up the bag; 
but be sure to put out all the wind before you sew it quite 
close. If you think the bag is thin, you may put it in a 
cloth. If it is a large haggis, it will take at least two hours 
boiling. 

N.B. The above we copied verbatim from Mrs. Maciver, 
a celebrated Caledonian professor of the culinary art, who 
taught, and published a book of cookery, at Edinburgh, 
A. D. 1787. 

Minced Collops. 

" This is a favourite Scotch dish ; few families are with- 
out it : it keeps well, and is always ready to make an 
extra dish. 

" Take beef, and chop and mnice it very small ; to which 
add some salt and pepper. Put this, in its raw state, into 
small jars, and pour on the top some clarified butter. When 
intended for use, put the clarified butter into a frying-pan, 
and slice some onions into the pan, and fry them. Add a 
little water to it, and then put in the minced meat. Stew it 
well, and in a few minutes it -will be fit to serve up." — 
The Hon. John Cochrane's Seaman's Guide, 8vo. 1797, 
page 42. 

Haricot* Mutio7i.—(No. 489.) 

Cut the best end of a neck or loin of mutton, that has 
been kept till tender, into chops of equal thickness, one rib 
to each (" les bons fiommes de bouche de Paris''^ cut two chops 
to one bone, but it is more convenient to help when there is 
only one ; two at a time is too large a dose for John Bull), 
trim off some of the fat, and the lower end of the chine 
bone, and scrape it clean, and lay them in a stew-pan, with 
an ounce of butter ; set it over a smart fire ; if your fire is 
not sharp, the chops will be done before they are coloured : 
the intention of frying them is merely to give them a very 
light browning. 

Wliile the chops are browning, peel and boil a couple 
of dozen of young button onions in about three pints of 
water for about fifteen or twenty minutes, set them by, and 

* Probably a contraction of "Aawf ragout." 



MADE DISHES, &LC. 307 

pour off the liquor they were boiled in into the stew-pan 
with the chops : if that is not sufficient to cover them, add 
as much boiling- water as will ; remove the scum as it rises, 
and be careful they are not stewed too fast or too much ; 
so take out one of them with a fish-slice, and try it : when 
they are tender, which will be in about an hour and a half, 
then pass the gravy through a sieve into a basin, set it in 
the open air that it ma}' get cold, you may then easily and 
completely skim off tlie fat ; in the mean time set the meat 
and vegetables by the fire to keep hot, and pour some boiling 
water over the button onions to warm them. Have about 
€ix ounces of carrots, and eight ounces of turnips, peeled 
and cut into slices, or shaped into balls about as big as a 
nutmeg; boil the carrots about half an hour, the turnips 
about a quarter of an hour, and put them on a sieve to drain, 
and then put them round the dish, the last thing. 

Thicken the gravy by putting an ounce of butter into a 
stew-pan; when it is melted, stir in as much flour as will 
stiffen it ; pour the gravy to it by degrees, stir together till it 
boils ; strain it through a fine sieve or tamis into a stew-pan, 
put in the carrots and turnips to get warm, and let it simmer 
gently while yon dish up the meat; lay the chops round a 
dish, put the vegetables in the middle, and pour the thickened 
gravy over. Some put in capers, &c. minced gherkins, &c. 

Obs. — Rump-steaks, veal-cutlets, and beef-tails, make ex- 
cellent dishes dressed in the like manner. 

Mutton-Oiops delicately stewed, and good Mutton Broth, 
(No. 490.) 

Put the chops into a stew-pan with cold water enough to 
cover them, and an onion: when it is coming to a boil, skim 
it, cover the pan close, and set it over a very slow fire till the 
chops are tender : if they have been kept a proper time, they 
will take about three quarters of an hour's very gentle sim- 
mering. Send up turnips with them (No. 130) ; they may 
be boiled with the chops ; skim well, and then send all up in 
a deep dish, with the broth they were stewed in. 

N. B. The broth will make an economist one, and the 
meat another, wholesome and comfortable meal. 

Shoulder of Lamb grilled. — (No. 491.) 

Boil it ; score it in checkers about an inch square, rub it 
over with the yelk of an egg, pepper and salt it, strew it with 
bread-crumbs and dried parsley, or sweet herbs, or No. 457, 
or No, 459, and Carbonado, i. e. grille i. e. broil it over a clear 



308 MADE DISHES, &C. 

fire, or put it in a Butch oven till it is a nice light brown ; 
send up some gravy with it, or make a sauce for it of flour 
and water well mixed together with an ounce of fresh butter, 
a table-spoonful of mushroom or walnut catchup, and the 
juice of half a lemon. See also grill sauce (No. 355). 

N.B. Breasts of lamb are often done in the same way, 
and with mushroom or mutton sauce (No. 307). 

Lamb's Fry.— {No. 492.) 

Fry it plain, or dip it in an egg well beaten on a plate, and 
strew some fine stale bread-crumbs over it ; garnish with 
crisp parsley (No. 389). For sauce, No. 355, or No. 356. 

Shin of Beef * stewed.—CNo. 493.) 

Desire the butcher to saw the bone into three or four 
pieces, put it into a stew-pan, and just cover it with cold 
water ; when it simmers, skim it clean ; then put in a bundle 
of sweet herbs, a large onion, a head of celery, a dozen ber- 
ries of black pepper, and the same of allspice: stew very 
gently over a slow fire till the meat is tender ; this will take 
from about three hours and a half, to four and a half. 

Take three carrots, peel and cut them into small squares ; 
peel and cut ready in small squares a couple of turnips, with 
a couple of dozen of small young round silver button onions ; 
boil them, till tender ; the turnips and onions will be enough 
in about fifteen minutes ; the carrots will require about twice 
as long : drain them dry. 

When the beef is quite tender, take it out carefully with a 
slice, and put it on a dish while you thicken a pint and a half 
of the gravy : to do this, mix three table-spoonfuls of flour 
with a tea-cupful of the beef liquor ; to make soup of the rest 
of it, see No. 238 ; stir this thoroughly together till it boils, 
skim off" the fat, strain it through a sieve, and put your vege- 
tables in to warm ; season with pepper, salt, and a wine-glass 
of mushroom catchup (No. 439), or port wine, or both, and 
pour it over the beef. 

Send up Wow- wow sauce (No. 328) in a boat. 

N.B. Or, instead of sending up the beef whole, cut the 
meat into handsome pieces fit to help at table, and lay it in 
the middle of the dish, with the vegetables and sauce (which, 
if you flavour with No. 455, you may call " beef curry") 

* The proverb says, " Of all the fowls of the air, commend me to the shin of beef; 
for there 's marrow for the master, meat for the mistress, gristles for the servants, 
and bones for the dogs." 



MADE DISHES, (SZ-C. 300 

round it. A leg of mutton is excellent dressed in the same' 
way ; equal to " le gigot de sept heures,'''' so famous in the 
French kitchen. 

Obs. — This stew has eveiy claim to the attention of the 
rational epicure, being one of those in which " frugality," 
" nourishment," and " palatableness," are most happily com- 
bined ; and you get half a gallon of excellent broth into the 
bargain. 

We advise the mistress of the table to call it "ragout 
beef:" this will ensure its being eaten with unanimous 
applause ; the homely appellation of " shin of beef stewed," 
is enough to give your genteel eater the locked jaw. 

'• Remember, when the judgment's weak, the prejudice is strong." 

Our modern epicures resemble the ancient,* who thought 
the dearest dish must be the most delicious : 

" And think all wisdom lies 



In being impertinently nice." 

Thus, they reckon turtle and punch to be " sheventy-foive 
per shent" more inviting than mock turtle and good malt 
liquor : however bad the former may be, and however good 
the latter, we wish these folks could be made to understand, 
that the soup for each, and all the accompaniments, are pre- 
cisely the same : there is this only difference, the former is 
commonly made with a " starved turtle" (see Notes at the 
foot of page 266), the latter with a " fatted calf." See Nos. 
247, 343, and 343*. 

The scarcity of tolerably good cooks ceases to be sur- 
prising, when we reflect how much more astonishing is the 
ignorance of most of those who assume the character of 
scientific gourmands,! so extremely ignorant of " the affairs 
of the mouth," they seem hardly to " know a sheep's head 
from a carrot;" and their real pretensions to be profound 
palaticians, are as moderate as the wine-merchant's cus- 

* The remotest parts of the world we'e visited, and earth, air, and ocean ran- 
sacked, to furnish the complicated de'.icacies of a Ro:nan supper. 

" Suida.o tells us, that Pif.yllits, who had a hot tongue and a cold stomach, in order 
to giatify the latter without otTending the former, made a sheath for his tongue, so 
ihat he could swallow his pottage scalding hot ; yea, 1 myself have kaowna Shrop- 
shire gentleman of the like quality I !" — See Dr. MoFr.\T on Food, 4io. 1655. 

" In the refined extravagance of the tables of the great, where the culinary arts 
ftre pushed to excess, luxury liecomes false to itself, and things are valued, not as 
they are nutritious, or agieeabie to the appetite, but in proportion as they are rare, 
out of season, or costly." — Cadog.vn on Gout, 8vo. 1771, p. 48. 

•f "Cookery is an art, appreciatfd by f)nly a very few individuals, and which 
requires, in addition to a most studious and diligent application, no small share of 
intellect, and the strictest sobriety and punctuality.' — Preface to IJdk's Cookery, p. 6. 



310 MADE DISHES, &LC. 

tomer, whose sagacity in the selection of liquors was only 
so exquisite, that he knew that Port wine was black, and 
that if he drank enough of it, it would make him drunk. 

Brisket of Beef stewed. — (No. 494.) " 

This is prepared in exactly the same way as " soup and 
bouiin." See Nos. 5, 238, or 493. 

Haricot of Beef— {No. 495.) 

A stewed brisket cut in slices, and sent up with the same 
sauce of roots, &c., as we have directed for haricot of mut- 
ton (No. 489), is a most excellent dish, of very moderate 
expense. 

Savoury Salt Beef baked.— {No. 496.) 

The tongue side of a round of beef is the best bit for this 
purpose : if it weighs fifteen pounds, let it hang two or three 
days; then take three ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of 
coarse sugar, a quarter of an ounce of black pepper, and the 
same of allspice (some add a quarter of an ounce of ginger, 
or No. 457), and some minced sweet and savoury herbs (No. 
459), and three quarters of a pound of common salt; incor- 
porate these ingredients by pounding them together in a 
mortar; then take the bone out, and rub the meat w^ell with 
the above mixture, turning it and rubbing it every day for a 
fortnight. 

When you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water; 
cover the meat with about three pounds of mutton suet* 
shredded rather thick, and an onion or two minced small ; 
cover the whole Avith a flour crust to the top or brim of the 
pan, and let it be baked in a moderate-heated oven for about 
six hours : (or, just cover it with water, and let it stew very 
gently for about five hours, and when you send it to table, 
cover the top of it with finely chopped parsley.) If the beef 
weighs more, put a proportional addition of all the ingre- 
dients. 

The gravy you will find a strong consomm^, excellent for 
sauce or soup ; or making soy, or browning, see No. 322, and 
being impregnated with salt, will keep several days. 

This joint should not be cut till it is cold : and then, with a 

* This suet is not to be wasted : when it comes from the oven, take out the beef, 
and strain the contents of the pan through a sieve; let it stand till it is cold; thea 
clarify the fat as directed in No. 83, and it will do for frying, &c 



MADE DISHES, (fec. 311 

sharp knife, to prevent waste, and keep it even and comely 
to the eye. 

Obs. — This is a most excellent way of preparing and dress- 
ing- beef (No. 503), and a savoury dish for sandwiches, &c. 
In moderate weather it will keep good for a fortnight after it 
is dressed: it is one of the most economical and elegant arti- 
cles of ready-dressed keeping provisions; deserving the par- 
ticular attention of those families who frequently have acci- 
dental customers dropping in at luncheon or supper. 

Curries. — (No. 497; see also No. 249.) 

Cut fowls or rabbits into joints, and wash them clean : put 
two ounces of butter into a stew-pan ; when it is melted, put 
in the meat, and two middling-sized onions sliced, let them 
be over a smart fire till they are of a light brown, then put in 
half a pint of broth; let it simmer twenty minutes. 

Put in a basin one or two table-spoonfuls of curry poAvder ■ 
(No. 455), a tea-spoonful of flour, and a tea-spoonful of salt ; 
mix it smooth with a little cold water, put it into the stew- 
pan, and shake it well about till it boils : let it simmer twenty 
minutes longer ; then take out the meat, and rub the sauce 
through a tamis or sieve : add to it Uvo table spoonfuls of 
cream or milk ; give it a boil up ; then pour it into a dish, lay 
the meat over it : send up the rice in a separate dish. 

Obs. — Curry is made also with sweetbreads, breast of veal, 
veal cutlets, lamb, mutton or pork chops, lobster, turbot, 
soles, eels, oysters, &;c. : prepared as above, or enveloped in 
No. 348. 

06s. — This is a veiy savouiy and economical dish, and a 
valuable variety at a moderate table. See Wow-wow sauce 
(No. 328). 

Stewed Rump-Steaks. — (No. 500.) 

The steaks must be a little thicker than for broiling : let 
them be all the same thickness, or some will be done too 
little, and others too much. 

Put an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, with two onions ; 
when the butter is melted, lay in the rump-steaks, let them 
stand over a slow fire for five minutes, then turn them and 
let tlie other side of them fry for five minutes longer. Have 
ready boiled a pint of button onions ; they v/iU take from half 
an hour to an hour; put the liquor they were boiled in to the 
steaks ; if there is not enough of it to cover them, add broth 
or boiling water, to make up enough for that purpose, with a 
dozen corns of black pepper, and a little salt, and let them 



312 MADE DISHES, &-C. 

simmer very gently for about an hour and a half, and then 
strain off as much of the liquor (about a pint and a half) as 
you think will make the sauce. 

Put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan; when it is 
melted, stir in as much flour as will make it into a stiff paste ; 
some add thereto a table-spoonful of claret, or Port wine, the 
same of mushroom catchup (No. 439), half a tea-spoonful of 
salt, and a quarter of a tea-spoonful of ground black pepper : 
add the liquor by degrees ; let it boil up for fifteen minutes ; 
skim it, and strain it; serve up the steaks with the onions 
round the dish, and pour the gravy over. 

Veal-cutlets or mutton-chops may be done the same way, 
or as veal-olives (No. 518). 

This is generally a second-course dish, and is usually 
made too rich, and only fit to re-excite an appetite already 
satiated. Our endeavour is to combine agreeable savouriness 
with substantial nourishment ; those who wish to enrich our 
receipt, may easily add mushrooms, wine, anchovy, Cay- 
enne, bay-leaves, &c. 

Obs. Rump-steaks are in best condition from Michaelmas 
to lady-day. To ensure their being tender, give the butcher 
three or four days' notice of your wish for them. 

Broiled Rump-Steak with Onion Gravy. — (No. 501".) 
See also No. 299. 

Peel and slice two large onions, put them into a quart 
stew-pan, with two table-spoonfuls of water ; cover the stew- 
pan close, and set it on a slow fire till the water has boiled 
away, and the onions have got a little browned ; then add half 
a pint of good broth,* and boil the onions till they are ten- 
der ; strain the broth from them, and chop them very fine, 
and season it with mushroom catchup, pepper, and salt : put 
the onion into it, and let it boil gently for five minutes ; pour 
it into the dish, and lay over it a broiled rump-steak. If in- 
stead of broth you use good beef gravy, it will be super- 
lative. 

*#* Stewed cucumber (No. 135) is another agreeable ac- 
companiment to rump-steaks. 

Alamode Beef, or Veal. — (No. 502.) 
In the 180 volumes on Cookery, we patiently pioneered 

* If you have no broth, put in half a pint of water, thicken it as in the above 
receipt, and just before you give it the last boil up, add to it a large spoonful of 
wusbroom catchup, and, if you like, tlic same quantity of port wine. 



MADE DISHES, &C. 313 

through, before we encountered the tremendous labour and 
expense of proving- the receipts of our predecessors, and set 
about recording these results of our own experiments, we 
could not find one receipt that approximated to any thing 
like an accurate description of the way in which this excel- 
lent dish is actually dressed in the best alamode beef shops ; 
from whence, of course, it was impossible to obtain any in- 
formation : however, after all, the whole of the secret seems 
to be the thickening of the gravy of beef that has been very 
slowly* stewed, and flavouring it with bay-leaves and all- 
spice. 

Take about eleven pounds of the mouse buttock, or clod 
of beef, or a blade-bone, or the sticking-piece, or the like 
weight of the breast of veal ; cut it into pieces of three or 
four ounces each; put three or four ounces of beef drip- 
pings, and mince a couple of large onions, and put them into 
a large deep stew-pan ; as soon as it is quite hot, flour the 
meat, put it into the stew-pan, keep stirring it with a wooden 
spoon ; when it has been on about ten minutes, dredge it 
with flour, and keep doing so till you have stirred in as much 
as you think will thicken it ; then cover it with boiling water 
(it will take about a gallon), adding it by degrees, and stirring 
it together ; skim it when it boils, and then put in one drachm 
of ground black pepper, two of allspice, and two bay-leaves ; 
set the pan by the side of the fire, or at a distance over it, 
and let it stew very slowly for about three hoars ; when you 
find the meat sufficiently tender, put it into a tureen, and it is 
ready for table. 

It is customary to send up with it a nice salad; see 
No. 372. 

*^* To the above many cooks add champignons ; but as 
these are almost always decayed, and often of deleterious 
quality, they are better left out, and indeed the bay-leaves 
deserve the same prohibition. 

06*. Here is a savoury and substantial meal, almost as 
cheap as the egg-broth of the miser, who fed his valet with 
the water in which his egg was boiled, or as the " Potage d 
la Pierre^ d la Soldat,''''j mentioned by Giles Rose, in the 4th 

* "It must be allowed to muse gently for several hours, inaccessible to the am- 
bient air, and on the even and persevering heat of charcoal in the furnace or stove. 
After having lulled itself in its own exudations, and the dissolution of its auxiliaries, 
it may appear at table with a powerful claim to approbation." — Tabella Cibaria, p. 47. 

t " ' C'est la soiipe,' says one of the best of proverbs, ' qui fait le soldat ;' ' It is 
Ihe soup that makes the soldier.' Excellent as our troops are in the field, there 
cannot be a more unquestionable fact, than their immense inferiority to the French 
in the business of cookery. The English soldier lays his piece of ration beef at 
Qoce on the coals, by which means the one and the better half is lost, and the other 

Dd 



314 MADE DISHES, &C. 

pag-e of his dedication of the " perfect school of instruction 
for the officers of the mouth," 18mo. London, 1682. " Two 
soldiers were minded to have a soup ; the first of them 
coming- into a house, and asking for all things necessary for 
the making of one, was as soon told that lie could have none 
of those things there, whereupon he went away ; the other, 
coming in with a stone in his knapsack, asked only for a pot 
to boil his stone in, that he might make a dish of broth of it 
for his supper, which was quickly granted him ; when the 
stone had boiled a little while, he asked for a small piece of 
meat or bacon, and a few herbs and roots, &c. just merely 
to give it a bit of a flavour ; till, by little and little, he got all 
things requisite, and so made an excellent pottage of his 
stone." See Obs. to No. 493. 

s. d. 

Onions, pepper, allspice, and bay-leaves 3 

11 pounds of beef 3 8 

Made eight quarts 3 11 

i. e. sixpence per quart. 

To pot Beef, Veal, Game, or Poultry, ^x. — (No, 503.) 

Take three pounds of lean gravy beef, rub it well with an 
ounce of saltpetre, and then a handful of common salt ; let it 
lie in salt for a couple of days, rubbing it well each day ; 
then put it into an earthen pan or stone jar that will just 
hold it ; cover it with the skin and fat that you cut off, and 
pour in half a pint of water ; cover it close with paste, and 
set it in a very slow oven for about four hours ; or prepare 
it as directed in No. 496. 

When it comes from the oven, drain the gravy from it into 
a basin; pick out the gristles and the skins; mince it fine; 
moisten it with a little of the gravy 3^ou poured from the 
meat, Avhich is a very strong consomme (but rather salt), and 
it will make excellent pease soup, or browning (see No. 
322) ; pound the meat patiently and thoroughly in a mortar 
with some fresh butter,* till it is a fine paste (to make potted 
meat smooth there is nothing equal to plenty of elbow-grease) ; 
seasoning it (by degrees, as you are beating it,) with a little 

burned to a cinder. Whereas, six French troopers fling tlieir messes into the same 
pot, and extract a delicious soup, ten times more nutritious than the simple rdti 
could ever be." — Blackwood's Edinburgh J\Iagaziiie^ vol. vii. p. 663. 

* The less gravy or butter, and the more beating, the betier will be your potted 
beef, if you wish it to keep: if for immediate eaFing, you may put in a larger pro- 
portion of gravy or butter, as the meat will pound easier and look aud taste oioie 
mellow 



MADE DISHES, &:C. 315 

I 

black pepper and allspice, or cloves pounded, or mace, or 
grated niitmeg-. 

Put it in pots, press it down as close as possible, and cover 
it a quarter of an inch thick with clarified butter ; to prepare 
which, see receipt No. 259, and if you wish to preserve it a 
long: time, over that tie a bladder. Keep it in a dry place. 

Obs. You may mince a little ham or bacon, or an anchovy, 
sweet or savoury herbs, or an eschalot, and a little tarragon, 
chervil, or burnet, &c., and pound them with the meat, with 
a glass of wine, or some mustard, or forcemeat (No. 376, or 
Nos. 378 and 399*, &c.) ; if you wish to have it devilish 
savoury, add ragout powder (No. 457), curry powder (No. 
455), or zest (No. 255), and moisten it with mushroom 
catchup (No. 439), or essence of anchovy (No. 433), or 
tincture of allspice (No. 413), or essence of turtle (No. 343*), 
or, (No. 503*). 

It is a very agreeable and economical way of using the 
remains of game or poultry, or a large joint of either roasted 
or boiled beef, veal, ham, or tongue, &c. to mince it with 
some of the fat, (or moisten it with a little butter, or No. 
439, &c.) and beat it in a mortar with the seasoning, &c., as 
ill the former receipt. 

When either the teeth or stomach are extremely feeble, 
especial care must be taken to keep meat till it is tender 
before it is cooked ; or call in the aid of those excellent helps 
to bad teeth, the pestle and mortar. And see Nos. 10, 18, 
87, 89, 175, 178 ; from 185 to 250, 502, 542, and especially 
503. Or dress in the usual way whatever is best liked, mince 
it, put it into a mortar, and pound it with a little broth or 
melted butter, vegetable, herb, spice, zest (No. 255), &c. ac- 
cording to the taste, &c. of the eater. The business of the 
stomach is thus veiy materially facilitated. 

" Flesh in small quantities, bruised to a pulp, may be very 
advantageously used in fevers attended with debility." — 
Darwin's Zoonomia, vol. ii. p. 400. 

" Mincing or pounding meat saveth the grinding of the 
teeth; and therefore (no doubt) is more nourishing, espe- 
cially in age, or to them that have weak teeth ; but butter is 
not proper for weak bodies, and therefore moisten it in 
pounding with a little claret wine, and a ven' little cinna- 
mon or nutmeg." — Lord Bacon ; Xatural History, Cen- 
tury 1. 54. 

Obs. — Meat that has been boiled down for gravies, &c. see 
Nos. 185* and 252, (which has heretofore been considered 
the perquisite of the cat) and is completely drained of all its 
succulence, beat in a mortar with salt and a little ground 



316 3w:ade dishes, &c. 

black pepper and allspice, as directed in the foregoing; re- 
ceipt, and it will make as good potted beef as meat that has 
been baked till its moisture is entirely extracted, which it 
must be, or it will not keep two days. 

Mem. — Meat that has not been previously salted, will not 
keen so long as that which has. 

Sandwiches, — {JSio. 504.) 

Properly prepared, are an elegant and convenient luncheon 
or supper, but have got out of fashion, from the bad manner 
in which they are commonly made : to cut the bread neatly 
with a sharp knife seems to be considered the only essen- 
tial, and the lining is composed of any offal odds and ends, 
that cannot be sent to table in any other form. 

Whatever is used must be carefully trimmed from every 
bit of skin, gristle, &c. and nothing introduced but what you 
are absolutely certain will be acceptable to the mouth. 

MATERIALS FOR MAKING SANDWICHES. 



Cold meat, or poultiy. 

Potted ditto (No. 503). 

Savoury ditto (No. 496). 

Potted lobster (No. 178), or shrimp 

(No. 175). 
Potted cheese (No. 542). 
Potted, or grated ham (No. 509). 
Ditto, or grated tongue. 
Anchovy (Nos. 434 and 435). 



German sausage. 

Cold pork ditto (No. 87). 

Hard eggs, pounded with a little butter 

and cheese. 
Grated ham, or beef. 
Various forcemeats, &c. (No. 373), &c. 
Curry-powder, zest, mustard, pepper, 

and salt are added occasionally. 



Meat Cakes.— (No. 504*.) 

If joii have any cold meat, game, or poultry (if under- 
done, all the better), mince it fine, with a little fat bacon or 
ham, or an anchovy ; season it with a little pepper and salt ; 
mix well, and make it into small cakes three inches long, half 
as wide, and half an inch thick : fry these a light brown, 
and serve them with good gravy, or put it hito a mould and 
boil or bake it. 

N.B. Bread-crumbs, hard yelks of eggs, onions, sweet 
herbs, savoury spices, zest, or curry-powder, or any of the 
forcemeats. See Nos. 373 to 382. 

Fish cakes for maigre Jays, may be made in like manner. 

Bubble and Squeak, or fried Beef or Mutton and Cab- 
bage. — (No. 505.) 

"When 'midst the frying pan, in accents savage, * 

The beef, so surly, quarrels with the cabbage.' 



MADE DISHES, &.C. 317 

For this, as for a hash, select those parts of the joint that 
have been least done ; it is generally made with slices of 
cold boiled salted beef, sprinkled with a little pepper, and 
just lightly browned with a bit of butter in a frying-pan : if 
it is fried too mucli it will be hard. 

Boil a cabbage, squeeze it quite dry, and chop it small ; 
take the beef out of the frying-pan, and lay the cabbage in 
it ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt over it ; keep the pan 
moving over the lire for a few minutes ; lay the cabbage in 
the middle of a dish, and the meat round it. 

For sauce, see No. 356, or No. 328. 

Hashed Beef, and roast Beef hones boiled. — (No. 506.) 

To hash beef, see receipt, Nos. 484, 5, 6, and Nos. 360, 
484, and 486. 

The best part to hash is the fillet or inside of the sirloin, 
and the good housewife will always endeavour to preserve 
it entire for this purpose. See Obs. to No. 19, and mock 
hare. No. 67*. 

Roast beef bones furnish a very relishing luncheon or 
supper, prepared in the following manner, with poached 
eggs (No. 546), or fried eggs (No. 545), or mashed potatoes 
(No. 106), as accompaniments. 

Divide the bones, leaving good pickings of meat on each; 
score them in squares, pour a little melted butter on them, 
and sprinkle them witli pepper and salt : put them in a dish ; 
set them in a Dutch oven for half or three quarters of an 
hour, according to the thickness of the meat ; keep turning 
them till they are quite hot and brown ; or broil them on the 
gridiron. Brown them, but don't burn them black. For 
sauce, Nos. 355, or 356. 

Ox-Cheek stewed. — (No. 507.) 

Prepare this the day before it is to be eaten ; clean it, and 
put it into soft water just warm ; let it lie three or four hours, 
then put it into cold water, and let it soak all night ; next day 
wipe it clean, put it into a stew-pan, and just cover it with 
water ; skim it w^ell when it is coming to a boil, then put two 
whole onions, stick two or three cloves into each, three tur- 
nips quartered, a couple of carrots sliced, two baj^-leaves, 
and twenty-four corns of allspice, a head of celery, and a 
bundle of sweet herbs, pepper, and salt ; to these, those who 
are for a " haut godt" may add Cayenne and garlic, in such 
proportions as the palate that requires them may desire. 

Dd2 



318 MADE DISHES, &:.e. 

Let it stew gently till perfectly tender, i. e. about three 
hours ; then take "out the cheek, divide it into handsome 
pieces, fit to help at table ; skim, and strain the gravy ; melt 
an ounce and a half of butter in a stew-pan ; stir into it as 
much flour as it will take up ; mix with it by degrees a pint 
and a half of the gravy ; add to it a table-spoonful of basil, 
tarragon, or elder vinegar, or the like quantity of mushroom 
or walnut catchup, or cavice, or port wine, and give it a boil. 

Serve up in a soup or ragout-dish ; or make it into barley 
broth. No. 204. 

Obs. — This is a very economical, nourishing, and savoury 
meal. See ox-cheek soup. No. 239, and calf's head hashed, 
No. 520. 

Ox-Tails stewed.— {No. 508.) 

Divide them into joints ; wash them ; parboil them ; set 
them on to stew in just water enough to cover them, — and 
dress them in the same manner as we have directed in No. 
531, Stewed Giblets, for which they are an excellent substi- 
tute. 

N.B.— See Ox-Tail Soup, No. 240. 

Potted Ham, or Tongue. — (No. 509.) 

Cut a pomid of the lean of cold boiled Ham or Tongue, 
and pomid it in a mortar with a quarter of a pound of the 
fat, or with fresh butter (in the proportion of about two 
ounces to a pound), till it is a fine paste (some season it by 
degrees Mdth a little pounded mace or allspice) : put it close 
down in pots for that purpose, and cover it with Clarified 
Butter, No. 259, a quarter of an inch thick ; let it stand one 
night in a cool place. Send it up in the pot, or cut out in 
thin slices. See Obs. on No. 503. 

Hashed Fea/.— (No. 511.) 

Prepare it as directed in No. 484 ; and to make sauce to 
warm Veal, see No. 361. 

Hashed or minced Veal. — (No. 511*.) 

To make a hash* cut the meat into slices ; — to prepare 
minced veal, mince it as fine as possible (do not chop it) ; put 
it into a stew-pan with a few spoonfuls of veal or mutton 
broth, or make some with the bones and trimmings, as or- 

* See receipt to bash mutton, Nos. 360 and 361, and No. 484. ; ^ 



MADE DISHES, &C 819 

dered for veal cutlets (see No. 80, or No. 361), a little lemon- 
peel minced fine, a spoonful of milk or cream ; thicken with 
butter and tlour, and season it with salt, a table-spoonful of 
lemon piclde, or Basil wine, No. 397, &c., or a pinch of curry 
powder. 

*^* If you have no cream, beat up the yelks of a couple 
of eg-^s with a little milk : line the dish with sippets of lightly 
toasted bread. 

06s.~Minced veal makes a very pretty dish put into scollop 
shells, and bread crumbed over, and sprinkled with a little 
butter, and browned in a Dutch oven, or a cheese-toaster. 

To maKe an excellent Ragout of Cold Veal. — (No. 512.) 

Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish this ex- 
cellent rag-out with a x&ry little expense or trouble. 

Cut the veal into handsome cutlets ; put a piece of butter 
or clean dripping into a frying--pan ; as soon as it is hot, flour 
and fry the veal of a light brown : take it out, and if you 
have no gravy ready, make some as directed in the note to 
No. 517; or put a pint of boiling water into the ftying-pan, 
give it a boil up for a minute, and strain it into a basin while 
you make some tliickening in the following manner: put 
about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan ; as soon as it melts, 
mix with it as much flour as will dry it up ; stir it over the 
fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy you 
made in the frying-pan ; let them simmer together for ten 
minutes (till thoroughly incorporated) ; season it with pepper, 
salt, a little mace, and a wine-glassful of mushroom catchup 
or wine ; strain it through a tamis to the meat, and stew very 
gently till the meat is thoroughly warmed. If you have any 
ready-boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm with 
the meat, or No. 526 or 527. 

Veal cutlets, see No. 90, &c. 

Breast of Veal stewed. — (No. 515.) 

A breast of veal stewed till quite tender, and smothered 
with onion sauce, is an excellent dish ; or in the gravy or- 
dered in the note to No. 517. 

Breast of Veal Ragout. — (No. 517.) 

Take off the under bone, and cut the breast in half length- 
ways ; divide it into pieces, about four inches long, by two 



320 MADE DISHES, &c. 

inches wide, i e. in handsome pieces, not too large to help 
at once : put about two ounces of butter into a frying-pan, 
and fry the veal till it is a light brown,* then put it into a 
stew-pan with veal broth, or as much boiling water as will 
cove> it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or lemon- 
thjTiie, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of blades 
of pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, a roll 
of lemon-peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; cover it close, and let it all simmer very 
gently till the veal is tender, i. e. for about an hour and a 
half, if it is very thick, two hours ; then strain off as much 
(about a quart) of the gravy, as you think you will want, into 
a basin ; set the stew-pan, with the meat, &c. in it by the 
fire to keep hot. To thicken the gravy you have taken out, 
put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan; 
when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take ; add 
the gravy by degrees ; season it with salt ; let it boil ten 
minutes ; skim it well, and season it with two table-spoonfuls 
of white wine, one of mushroom catchup, and same of 
lemon-juice; give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the 
veal into a ragout dish, and strain the gravy through a fine 
sieve to it. O?-, 

By keeping the meat whole, you will better preserve the 
succulence of it. 

Put the veal into a stew-pan, with two ounces of butter 
and two whole onions (such as weigh about two ounces 
each) ; put it on the fire, and fry it about five minutes ; then 
cover it with boiling water ; when it boils, skim it ; then put 
in two small blades of mace, a dozen blades of allspice, the 
same of black pepper; cover it close, and let it simmer 
gently for an hour and a half; then strain as much of the 
gravy as you think you will want into a basin ; put the stew- 
pan by the fire to keep hot. To thicken it, put an ounce and 
a half of butter into a clean stew-pan : when it is melted, 
stir in as much flour as it will take ; add the gravy by de- 
grees ; season it with salt, and when it boils it is ready. Put 
the veal on a dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve 
over it. 

* Some cooks make the gravy, &c. in the following manner:— Slice a large 
onion ; fry it brown ; drain all fat from it, and put it into a stew-pan with a bunch 
of sweet herbs, a couple of dozen berries of allspice, same of black pepper, three 
blades of mace, and a pint and a half of water ; cover down close, and boil gently, 
for half an hour ; then strain it through a sieve over the veal, and let it simmer 
gently for about three hours : about half an hour before it is done, mix two table- 
spoonfuls of flour in a tea-cupful of cold water ; mix some of the gravy with it, and 
then put it into the stew-pan. 

N.B. Three pints of full-grown green pease are sometimes added when the veal 
is put in. 



HADE DISHES, &:C. 321 

06s.— Forcemeat balls, see No. 375, &c.; truffles, morells, 
mushrooms, and curry powder, &c. are sometimes added; 
and rashers of bacon or ham, Nos. 526 and 627, or fried pork 
sausages. No. 83. 

N.B. These are nice dishes in the pease season. 

Scotch Collops.— {No. 517*.) 

The veal must be cut the same as for cutlets, in pieces 
about as big as a crown-piece ; flour them well, and fry them 
of a light brown in fresh butter ; lay them in a stew-pan ; 
dredge them over with flour, and then put in as much boiling 
water as will well cover the veal ; pour this in by degrees, 
shaking the stew-pan, and set it on the fire ; when it comes 
to a boil, take off" the scum, put in one onion, a blade of mace, 
and let it simmer very gently for three quarters of an hour ; 
lay them on a dish, and pour the gravy through a sieve over 
them. 

N.B. Lemon-juice and peel, wine, catchup, &c., are some- 
times added ; add curry powder, No. 455, and you have curry 
collops. 

Feal OZraes.— (No. 518. 

Cut half a dozen slices off" a fillet of veal, half an inch 
thick, and as long and square as you can ; flat them with a 
chopper, and rub them over with an egg that has been beat 
on a plate ; cut some fat bacon as thin as possible, the same 
size as the veal ; lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of 
the egg; make a little veal forcemeat, see receipt. No. 375, and 
spread it very thin over the bacon ; roll up the olives tight, 
rub them with the egg, and then roll them in fine bread- 
crumbs ; put them on a lark-spit, and roast them at a brisk 
fire : they will take three quarters of an hour. 

Rump-steaks are sometimes dressed this way. 

Mushroom sauce, brown (Nos. 305 or 306), or beef gravy 
(No. 329). Vide chapter on sauces, &c. 

Cold OJ^ Head hashed.— (No. 519.) 
See Obs. to boiled calf's head, No. 10. 

Calfs Head hashed, or Ragout.-^{No. 520.) See No. 247. 

Wash a calf's head, which, to make this dish in the best 
style, should have the skin on, and boil it, see No. 10; boil 
one half all but enough, so that it may be soon quite done 



322 MADE DISHES, &LG. 

\yhen put into the hash to wami, the other quite tender : from 
this half take out the bones : score it superficially ; beat up 
an egg; put it over the head with a paste-brush, and strew 
over it a little grated bread and lemon-peel, and thyme and 
parsley, chopped very fine, or in powder, then bread-crumbs, 
and put it in the Dutch oven to brown. 

Cut the other half-head into handsome slices, and put it 
into a stew-pan with a quart of gravy (No. 329), or turtle 
sauce (No. 343), with forcemeat balls (Nos. 37G, 380), egg- 
balls, a wine-glass of white wine, and some catchup, &c. ; 
put in the meat ; let it warm together, and skim off the fat. 

Peel the tongue, and send it up with the brains round it as 
a side dish, as directed in No. 10 ; or beat them up in a basin 
with a spoonful of floKr, two eggs, some grated lemon-peel, 
thyme, parsley, and a few leaves of verj^ finely-minced sage ; 
rub them well together in a mortar, with pepper, salt, and a 
scrape of nutmeg; fry them (in little cakes) a veiy light 
brown ; dish up the hash with the half-head you browned in 
the middle ; and garnish with crisp, or curled rashers of bacon, 
fried bread sippets (Nos. 319, 526, and 527), and the brain 
cakes. 

N.B. It is by far the best way to make a side dish of the 
tongue and brains, if j^ou do send up a piece of bacon as a 
companion for it, or garnish the tongue and brains with the 
rashers of bacon and the forcemeat balls, both of which are 
much better kept dry than when immersed in the gravy of the 
ragout. 

Obs. — In order to make what common cooks, who merely 
cook for the eye, call a fine, large, handsome dishful, they 
put in not only the eatable parts, but all the knots of gristle, 
and lumps of fat, offal, &c. ; and when the grand gourmand 
fancies he is helped as plentifully as he could wish, he often 
finds one solitary morsel of meat among a large lot of lumps 
of gristle, fat, &c. 

We have seen a very elegant dish of the scalp only, sent to 
table rolled up ; it looks like a sucking pig. 

Veal Cutlets broiled plain, or full-dressed. — (No. 521.) 

Divide the best end of a neck of veal into cutlets, one rib 
to each ; broil them plain, or make some fine bread-crumbs ; 
mince a little parsley, and a very little eschalot, as small as 
possible ; put it into a clean stew-pan, with two ounces of 
butter, and fry it for a minute ; then put on a plate the yelks 
of a couple of eggs ; mix the herbs, &c. -with it, and season 
it with pepper and salt : dip the cutlets into this mixture, and 



MADE DISHES, &LC, 323 

then into the bread ; lay them on a gridiron over a clear slow 
fire, till they are nicely browned on both sides ; they will 
take about an hour : send up with them a few slices of ham 
or bacon fried, or done in the Dutch oven. See Nos. 526 and 
527, and half a pint of No. 343, or No. 356. 

Knuckle of Veal, to ragont. — (No. 522.) 

Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick ; 
pepper, salt, and flour them ; fiy them a light brown ; put the 
trimmings into a stew-pan, with the bone broke in several 
places ; an onion sliced, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, and two blades of bruised mace : pour in warm water 
enough to cover them about an inch ; cover the pot close, and 
let it stew very gently for a couple of hours ; strain it, and 
then thicken it with flour and butter ; put in a spoonful of 
catchup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon ; give it 
a boil up, and strain into a clean stew-pan ; put in the meat, 
make it hot, and serve up. 

06s. — If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead or 
flavour it with celery-seed, or No. 409. 

Knuckle of Veal stewed with Rice. — (No. 523.) 

As boiled knuckle of veal cold is not a very favourite relish 
With the generality, cut off" some steaks from it, which you 
may dress as in the foregoing receipt, or No. 521, and leave 
the knuckle no larger than will be eaten the day it is dressed. 
Break the shank-bone, wash it clean, and put it in a large 
stew-pan witli two quarts of water, an onion, two blades of 
mace, and a tea-spoonful of salt : set it on a quick fire ; when 
it boils, take off all the scum. 

Wash and pick a quarter of a pound of rice ; put it into 
the stew-pan with the meat, and let it stew very gently for 
about two hours : put the meat, &c. in a deep dish, and the 
rice round it. 

Send up bacon with it, parsnips, or greens, and finely 
minced parsley and butter. No. 261. 

Mr. Gay's Receipt to stew a Knuckle of Veal, — (No. 524.) 

Take a knuckle of veal ; 
You may buy it or steal : 
In a few pieces cut it, 
In a stewing-pan put it ; 
Salt, pepper, and mace, 

Must season this knuckle , 
Then, what 's joined to a place* 

With other herbs niuckle ; 

* Vulgo, salary. 



324 MADE DISHES, &LC. 

That which kill'd King Will,* 

And what never stands still -f 

Some sprigs of that bed,t 

Where children are bred. 

Which much you will mend, if 

Both spinach and endive, 

And lettuce and beet, 

With marigold meet. 

Put no water at all, 

For it maketh thingssmall. 

Which lest it should happen, 

A close cover clap on ; 

Put this pot of Wood's metal^ 

In a boiling hot kettle ; 

And there let it be, 

(Mark the doctrine I teach,) 
About, let me see, 

Thrice as long as you preach. || 
So skimming the fat off, 
Say srace with your hat off, 
O ! then with what rapture 
Will it fill Dean and Chapter ! 

Slices of Ham or Bacon. — (No. 526.) 

Ham, or bacon, may be fried, or broiled on a gridiron over 
a clear fire, or toasted with a fork: take care to slice it of the 
same thickness in every part. 

If you wish it curled, cut it in slices about two inches long 
(if longer, the outside will be done too much before the inside 
is done enough) ; roll it up, and put a little w^ooden skewer 
through it: put it in a cheese-toaster, or Dutch oven, for 
eight or ten minutes, turning it as it gets crisp. 

This is considered the handsomest way of dressing bacon; 
but we like it best uncurled, because it is crisper, and more 
equally done. 

06s. — Slices of ham or bacon should not be more than half 
a quarter of an inch thick, and wall eat much more mellow 
if soaked in hot water for a quarter of an hour, and then 
dried in a cloth before they are broiled, &c. 

Relishing Rashers of Bacon. — (No. 527.) 

If you have any cold bacon, you may make a very nice 
dish of it by cutting it into slices about a quarter of an inch 
thick; grate some crust of bread, as directed for ham (see 
No. 14), and powder them well with it on both sides ; lay the 
rashers in a cheese-toaster, they will be browned on one side 
in about three minutes, turn them and do the other. 

* Supposed sorrel. 

t This is by Dr. BENTLEy thought to be time, or thyme. 

t Parsley. Vide Chamberlayne. 

^ Of this composition, see the woiks of the copper-farthing dean. 

Which we suppose to be near four hours. 



MADE DISHES, &-C. 325 

Ob$. — These are a delicious accompaniment to poached 
or fried Eg-g-s : the bacon having been boiled* first, is tender 
and mellow. They are an excellent g-arnish round veal 
cutlets, or sweet-breads, or calf s-head hash, or green pease, 
or beans, &c 

Hashed Venison. — (No. 528.) 

If you have enough of its own gravy left, it is preferable 
to any to warm it up in : if not, take some of the mutton 
gravy (No. 347), or the bones and trimmings of the joint 
(after you have cut off all the handsome slices you can to 
make the hash) ; put these into som.e w^ater, and stew them 
gently for an hour; then put some butter into a stew-pan; 
when melted, put to it as much flour as will dry up the 
butter, and stir it well together; add to it by degrees the 
gravy you have been making of the trimmings, and some red 
currant jelly ; giwe it a boil up; skim it; strain it through a 
sieve, and it is ready to receive the venison : put it in, and 
let it just get warm : if you let it boil, it will make the meat 
hard. 

Hashed Hare.— (No. 529.) 

Cut up the hare into pieces fit to help at table, and divide 
the joints of the legs and shoulders, and set them by ready. 

Put the trimmings and gravy you have left, with half a 
pint of water (there should be a pint of liquor), and a table- 
spoonful of currant jelly, into a clean stew-pan, and let it 
boil gently for a quarter of an hour : then strain it through a 
sieve into a basin, and pour it back into the stew-pan ; now 
flour the hare, put it into the gravy, and let it simmer very 
gently till the hare is warm (about twenty minutes) ; cut the 
stufling into slices, and put it into the hash to get warm, about 
five minutes before you serve it ; divide the head, and lay one 
half on each side the dish. 

For hare soup, see No. 241, mock hare, No. 66,* 

Jugged Hare. — (No. 529*.) 

Wash it very nicely; cut it up into pieces proper to help 
at table, and put them into a jugging-pot, or into a stone jar,t 

* To boil bacon, see No. 13. 

t Meat dressed by the l>eat of boiling water, without bein^ immediately exposed 
to it, is a mode of cookery that deserves to be more generally employed : it becomes 
delicately tender, without being over-done, and the whole of the nourishment and 
gravy is preserved. This, in cbemiceil technicals, is callad balneum maris, a watex- 

* Ee 



326 MADE DISHES, 6lC, 

just sufficiently large to hold it well; put in some sweet 
herbs, a roll or two of rind of a lemon, or a Seville orange, 
and a fine large onion with five cloves stuck in it, — and if 
you Avish to preserve the flavour of the hare, a quarter of a 
pint of water ; if you are for a ragout, a quarter of a pint of 
claret, or port wine, and the juice of a Seville orange, or 
lemon: tie the jar down closely with a bladder, so that no 
steam can escape ; put a little hay in the bottom of the sauce- 
pan, in which place the jar, and pour in water till it reaches 
within four inches of the top of the jar; let the water boil for 
about three hours, according to the age and size of the hare 
(take care it is not over-done, which is the general fault in all 
made dishes, especially this), keeping it boiling all the time, 
and fill up the pot as it boils away. When quite tender, 
strain off the gravy clear from fat ; thicken it with flour, and 
give it a boil up : lay the hare in a soup-dish, and pour the 
gra\y to it. 

Obs. — You may make a pudding the same as for roast hare 
(see No. 397), and boil it in a cloth ; and when you dish up your 
hare, cut it in slices, or make forcemeat balls of it, for garnish. 

For sauce. No. 346. Or, 

A much easier and quicker, and more certain way of pro- 
ceeding, is the following : 

Prepare the hare the same as for jugging; put it into a 
stew-pan with a few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the 
same of allspice and black pepper, two large onions, and a 
roll of lemon-peel : cover it with water ; when it boils, skim 
it clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours) ; 
then take it up Avith a slice, and set it by the fire to keep hot 
while you thicken the gravy ; take three ounces of butter, 
and some flour; rub together; put in the gravy; stir it well, 
and let it boil about ten minutes ; strain it through a sieve 
over the hare, and it is ready. 

Dressed Ducks, or Geese hashed. — (No. 530.) 

Cut an onion into small dice ; put it into a stew-pan with 
a bit of butter ; fry it, but do not let it get any colour ; put 
as much boiling water into the stew-pan as will make sauce 
for the hash ; thicken it with a little flour ; cut up the duck, 
and put it into the sauce to warm ; do not let it boil ; season 
it with pepper and salt, and catchup. 



MADE DISHES, fcc 327 

N.B. The legs of geese, &c. broiled, and laid on a oed of 
apple sauce, are sent up for luncheon or supper. Or,\ 

Divide the duck into joints ; lay it by ready ; put the trim- 
mings and stuffing into a stew-pan, with a pint and a half of 
broth or water; let it boil half an hour, and then rub it 
through a sieve ; put half an ounce of butter into a stew- 
pan ; as it melts, mix a table-spoonful of flour with it ; stir it 
over the fire a few minutes, then mix the gravy with it by 
degrees ; as soon as it boils, take off the scum, and strain 
through a sieve into a stew-pan ; put in the duck, and let it 
stew very gently for tenor fifteen minutes, if the duck is 
rather under-roasted : if there is any fat, skim it off: line the 
dish you serve it up in with sippets of bread either fried or 
toasted. 

Ragouts of Poultry, Game, Pigeons, Rabbits, ^c. — (No. 530*.) 

Half roast it, then stew it Avhole, or divide it into joints 
and pieces proper to help at table, and put it into a stew-pan, 
with a pint and a half of broth, or as much water, with any 
trimmings or parings of meat you have, one large onion with 
cloves stuck in it, twelve berries of allspice, the same of 
black pepper, and a roll of lemon-peel ; when it boils, skim 
it very clean ; let it simmer very gently for about an hour 
and a quarter, if a duck or fowl — longer if a larger bird ; then 
strain off the liquor, and leave the ducks by the (ire to keep 
hot; skim the fat off; put into a clean stew-pan two ounces 
of butter; when it is hot stir in as much flour as will make 
it of a stiff paste ; add the liquor by degrees ; let it boil up ; 
put in a glass of port wine, and a little lemon-juice, and 
simmer it ten minutes ; put the ducks, &c. into the dish, and 
strain the sauce through a fine sieve over them. 

Garnish with sippets of toasted, or fried bread. No. 319. 

06s. — If the poultry is only half roasted, and stewed only 
till just nicely tender, this will be an acceptable bonne 
bouche to those who are fond of made dishes. The flavour 
may be varied by adding catchup, curry powder, or any of 
the flavoured vinegars. 

This is an easily prepared side dish, especially when you 
have a large dinner to dress; and coming to table ready 
carved saves a deal of time and trouble ; it is therefore an 
excellent way of serving poultry, &c. for a large party. Or, 

Roast or boil the poultry in the usual way ; then cut it up, 
and pour over it a sufficient quantity of No. 305, or No. 329, 
or No. 364, or No. 2. 



328 MADE DISHES, SlC. 



Stewed Giblets.— (No. 531.) 

Clean two sets of giblets (see receipt for giblet soup, No. 
244) ; put them into a saucepan, just cover them with cold 
water, and set them on the fire ; when they boil, take off the 
scum, and put in an onion, three cloves, or two blades of 
mace, a few berries of black pepper, the same of allspice, and 
half a tea-spoonful of salt ; cover the stew-pan close, and let 
it simmer very gently till the giblets are quite tender : this 
will take from one hour and a half to two and a half, ac- 
cording to the age of the giblets ; the pinions will be done 
first, and must then be taken out, and put in again to warm 
when the gizzards are done : watch them that they do not 
get too much done : take them out and thicken the sauc8 
with flour and butter; let it boil half an hour, or till there 
is just enough to eat with the giblets, and then strain it 
through a tamis into a clean stew-pan ; cut the giblets into 
mouthfuls ; put them into the sauce with the juice of half a 
lemon, a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup ; pour the 
whole into a soup-dish, with sippets of bread at the bottom. 

Obs. — Ox-tails prepared in the same way are excellent 
eating. 

Hashed Poultry, Game, or Rabbit. — (No. 533.) 

Cut them into joints, put the trimmings into a stew-pan 
with a quart of the broth they were boiled in, and a large onion 
cut in four ; let it boil half an hour ; strain it through a sieve : 
then put two table-spoonfuls of flour in a basin, and mix it 
well by degrees with the hot broth ; set it on the fire to boil 
up, then strain it through a fine sieve : wash out the stew- 
pan, lay the poultry in it, and pour the gravy on it (through a 
sieve) ; set it by the side of the fire to simmer very gently (it 
must not boil) for fifteen minutes ; five minutes before you 
serve it up, cut the stufiing in slices, and put it in to wann, 
then take it out, and lay it round the edge of the dish, and 
put the poultry in the middle ; carefully skim the fat off the 
gravy, then shake it round well in the stew-pan, and pour 
it to the hash. 

N.B. You may garnish the dish with bread sippets lightly 
toasted. 

Pulled Turkey, Fowl, or Chicken. — (No. 534.) 

Skin a cold chicken, fowl, or turkey; take off the fillets 
from the breasts, and put them into a stew-pan with the rest 



MADE DISHES, &SC. 329 

ot the white meat and wings, side-bones, and merry-thought, 
with a pint of broth, a large blade of mace pounded, an 
eschalot minced fine, the juice of half a lemon, and a roll of 
the peel, some salt, and a few grains of Cayenne ; thicken it 
with flour and butter, and let it simmer for two or three 
mmutes, till the meat is warm. In the mean time score the 
legs and rump, powder them with pepper and salt, broil them 
nicely brown, and lay them on, or round your pulled chicken. 
Obs. — Three table-spoonfuls of good cream, or the yelks 
of as many eggs, will be a great improvement to it. 

To dress Dressed Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or 
Rabbit.— {No. 535.) 

Cut them in quarters, beat up an egg or two (according to 
the quantity you dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and 
pepper and salt, some parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs 
of bread ; mix these well together, and cover the fowl, &c. 
with this batter ; broil them, or put them in a Dutch oven, or 
have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them a 
light brown colour ; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put 
a large spoonful of catchup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and 
pour the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of 
lemon and toasted bread. See No. 355. 

Devil.— {No, 538.) 

The gizzard and rump, or legs, &c. of a dressed turkey, 
capon, or goose, or mutton or veal kidney, scored, peppered, 
salted, and broiled, sent up for a relish, being made very hot, 
has obtained the name of a " devil." 

Obs. — This is sometimes surrounded with No. 356, or a 
sauce of thick melted butter or gravy, flavoured with catchup 
(No. 439), essence of anchovy, or No. 434, eschalot wine 
(No. 402), curry stuff". (No. 455, &c.) See turtle sauce (No. 
343), or grill sauce (No. 355), which, as the palates of the 
present day are adjusted, will perhaps please grands gour- 
mands as well as " veritable sauce d'^Enfer.'''' — Vide School for 
the Officers of the Mouth, p. 368, 18mo. London, 1682. 

" Every man must have experienced, that when he has got deep into his third 
bottle, his palate acquires a degree of torpidity, and his stomach is seiZ'id with a 
certain craving, which seem to demand a stimulant to the powers of both. The 
provocatives used on such occasions, an ungrateful world has combined to term 
devils. 

" The diablcs au feu d'cnfer, or dry devils, rire usually composed of the broiled 
legs and gizzards of poultry, fish-bones, or biscuits ; and, if pungency alone can 
justify their appellation, never was title better deserved, for tliey are usually pre- 
pared witUout any other intention than to make them ' hot as their native element,' 
and any one who can swallow them without tears in his eyes, need be under no 

Eea 



330 MADE DISHES, &.C. 

apprehension of the pains of futurity. It is true, they answer tne purpose of exciting 
thirst; but they excoriate the palate, vitiate its nicer powers of discrimination, and 
pall the relish for the liigli flavour of good wine : in short, no man should venture 
upon them whose throat is not paved witli mosaic, unless they be seasoned by a 
cook wlio can poise the pepper-box with as even a hand as a judge should tlie scales 
of justice. 

" It would be an insult to the understanding of our readers, to suppose them igno- 
rant of the usual mode of treating common devils ; but we shall make no apology 
for giving tlie most minute iustructions for the preparation of a gentler sthnulant, 
which, besides, possesses this advantage — tliat it may be all done at the table, either 
by yourself, or at least under your own immediate inspection. 

" Mix equal parts of fine salt, Cayenne pepper, and curry powder, with double 
the quantity of powder of truffles: dissect, secundum artem, a brace of woodcocks 
rather under-roasted, split the heads, subdivide the wings, &c. &c. and powder the 
whole gently over with the mixture ; crush the trail and brains along with the yelk 
of a hard-boiled egg, a small portion of pounded mace, the grated peel of half a 
lemon, and half a spoonful of soy, until the ingredients be brought to the consistence 
of a fine paste : then add a table-spoonful of catchup, a full wine-glass of Madeira, 
and the juice of two Seville oranges : throw this sauce, along witli the birds, into a 
silver stew- dish, to be neated witlr spirits of wine : cover close up, light the lamp, 
and keep gently simmering, and occasionally stirring, until tlie flesli has imbibed 
the greater part of the liquid. When you have reason to suppose it is completely 
saturated, pour in a small quantity of salad oil, stir all once more well together, 
' put out the light, and then !' — serve it round instantly ; for it is scarcely necessary 
to say, that a devil should not only be hot in itself, but eaten hot. 

"There is, however, one precaution to be used in eating it, to which we most 
earnestly recommend the most particular attention ; and for want of which, more 
than one accident lias occurred. It is not, as some people might suppose, to avoid 
eating too much of it (for that your neighbours will take good care to prevent) ; but 
it is this : in order to pick the bones, you must necessarily take some portion of it 
with your fingers ; and, as they thereby become impregnated with its flavour, if you 
afterward chance to let them touch your tongue, you will infallibly lick them to the 
bone, if you do not swallow them entire."— See page 124, &c. of the entertaining 
^^ Essays on Good Living:^' 

Crusts of Bread for Cheese, ^c. — (No. 538.) 

It is not uncommon to see both in private families and at 
taverns a loaf entirely spoiled, by furious epicures paring off 
the crust to eat with cheese : to supply this, and to eat with 
soups, &c. pull lightly into small pieces the crumb of a new 
loaf; put them on a tin plate, or in a baking dish; set it in a 
tolerably brisk oven till they are crisp, and nicely browned, 
or do them in a Dutch oven. 

Toast and Cheese. — (No. 539.) 

"Happy the man that has each fortune tried, 
To whom she much has giv'n, and much denied ; 
With abstinence all delicates he sees, 
And can regale himself on toast and cheese." 

King's Jlrt of Cookery. 

Cut a slice of bread about half an inch thick ; pare off the 
crust, and toast it very slightly on one side so as just to brown 
it, without making it hard or burning it. 

Cut a slice of cheese (good fat mellow Cheshire cheese, or 
double Gloster, is better than poor, thin, single Gloster) a 



POUNDED CHEESE. 33 1 

quarter of an inch thick, not so hig as the bread by half an 
inch on each side : pare off tlie rind, cut out all th« specks 
and rotten parts,* and lay it on the toasted bread in a cheese- 
toaster; carefully watch it that it does not burn, and stir it 
with a spoon to prevent a pellicle forming- on the surface. 
Have ready good mustard, pepper and salt. 

If you observe the directions here given, the cheese will 
eat mellow, and Mill be uniformly done, and the bread crisp 
and soft, and will well deserve its ancient appellation of a 
" rare bit." 

Obs. — One would think nothing could be easier than to pre- 
pare a Welsh rabbit ; yet, not only in private families, but at 
taverns, it is very seldom sent to table in perfection. We 
have attempted to account for this in the last paragraph of 
06s. to No. 493. 

Toasted Cheese, No. 2.— (No. 540.) 

We have nothing to add to the directions given for toasting 
the cheese in the last receipt, except that in sending it up, it 
will save much time in portioning it out at table, if you have 
half a dozen small silver or tin pans to fit into the cheese- 
toaster, and do the cheese in these : each person may then 
be helped to a separate pan, and it will keep the cheese much 
hotter than the usual way of eating it on a cold plate. 

Mem. Send up with it as many cobblersf as you have pans 
of cheese. 

Qbs. — Ceremony seldom triumphs more completely over 
comfort than in the serving out of this dish ; which, to be 
presented to the palate in perfection, it is imperatively indis- 
pensable that it be introduced to the mouth as soon as it ap- 
pears on the table. 

Buttered Toast and Cheese. — (No. 541.) 

Prepare a round of toast; butter it; grate over it good 
Cheshire cheese about half the thickness of the toast, and 
give it a brown. 

Pounded Cheese. — (No. 542.) 

Cut a pound of good mellow Chedder, Cheshire, or North 
Wiltshire cheese into thin bits ; add to it two, and if the 

♦ Rotten cheese toasted is the neplus ultra of haut goiit, and only eatable by the 
tliorough-bred gourmand in the most inverted state of his jaded appetite. ' 
J" Tlje mirsery name for bread toasted on one side only. 



332 MACARONI. 

cheese is dry, three ounces of fresh butter ; pound, and rub 
them well together in a mortar till it is quite smooth. i 

Obs. — When cheese is dry, and for those whose digestion 
is feeble, this is the best way of eating it ; and spread on 
bread, it makes an excellent luncheon or supper. 

N.B. The piquance of this is sometimes increased by 
pounding with it curry powder (No. 455), ground spice, black 
pepper, cayenne, and a little made mustard ; and some moisten 
it with a glass of sherry. If pressed down hard in a jar, 
and covered with clarified butter, it v/ill keep for several days 
in cool weather. 

Macaroni. — (No. 543.) See Macaroni Pudding for the 
Boiling of it. 

The usual mode of dressing it in this country is by adding 
a white sauce, and parmesan or Cheshire cheese, and 
burning it ; but this makes a dish which is proverbially un- 
wholesome : its bad qualities arise from the oiled and burnt 
cheese, and the half-dressed flour and butter put into the 
white sauce. 

Macaroni plain boiled, and some rich stock or portable 
Boup added to it quite hot, will be found a delicious dish and 
very wholesome. Or, boil macaroni as directed in the re- 
ceipt for the pudding, and serve it quite hot in a deep tureen, 
a,nd let each guest add grated parmesan and cold butter, or 
oiled butter served hot, and it is excellent ; this is the most 
common Italian mode of dressing it. Macaroni with cream, 
sugar, and cinnamon, or a little varicelli added to the cream, 
makes a very nice sweet dish. 

English way of dressing Macaroni, 

Put a quarter of a pound of riband macaroni into a stew- 
pan, with a pint of boiling milk, or broth, or water ; let it boil 
gently till it is tender, this will take about a quarter of an 
hour ; then put in an ounce of grated cheese, and a tea-spoon- 
ful of salt ; mix it well together, and put it on a dish, and 
stew over it two ounces of grated Pannesan or Cheshire 
cheese, and give it a light brown in a Dutch oven. Or put 
all the cheese into the macaroni, and put bread-crmnbs over 
the top. 

Macaroni is veiy good put into a thick sauce with, some 
shreds of dressed ham, or in a curry sauce. Riband maca- 
roni is best for these dishes, and should not be done so 
much. 



OMELETTES. 333 

Macaroni Pudding. 

One of the most excellent preparations of macaroni is the 
Timbale de Macaroni. Simmer half a pound of macaroni in 
plenty of water, and a table-spoonful of salt, till it is tender ; 
but take care not to have it too soft ; though tender, it should 
be finn, and the form entirely preserved, and no part begin- 
ning to melt (this caution will serve for the preparation of 
all macaroni). Strain the water from it; beat up five yelks 
and the white of two eggs; take half a pint of the best 
cream, and the breast of a fowl, and some thin slices of ham. 
Mince the breast of the fowl with the ham ; add them with 
from two to three table-spoonfuls of finely-grated parmesan 
cheese, and season with pepper and salt. Mix all these with 
the macaroni, and put into a pudding-mould well buttered, 
and then let it steam in a stew-pan of boiling water for about 
an hour, and serve quite hot, with rich gravy (as in Omelette). 
See No. 543*. 

Obs. — This, we have been informed, is considered by a 
grand gourmand as the most important recipe which was 
added to the collection of his cook during a gastronomic tour 
through Europe ; it is not an micommon mode of prepa^ng 
macaroni on the continent. 

Omelettes and various ways of dressing Eggs. — (No. 543*.) 

There is no dish which in this country may be considered 
as coming under the denomination of a made dish of the 
second order, which is so generally eaten, if good, as an 
omelette ; and no one is so often badly dressed : it is a very 
faithful assistant in the construction of a dinner. 

When you are taken by surprise, and wish to make an 
appearance beyond what is provided for the every-day dinner, 
a little portable soup melted down, and some zest (No. 255), 
and a few vegetables, will make a good broth ; a pot of the 
stewed veal of ^Morrison's, warmed up; an omelette; and 
some apple or lemon fritters, can all be got ready at ten 
minutes' notice, and with the original foundation of a leg of 
mutton, or a piece of beef, will make up a very good dinner 
when company unexpectedly arrives, in the country. 

The great merit of an omelette is, that it should not be 
greasy, burnt, nor too much done : if too much of the white 
of the eggs is left in, no art can prevent its being hard, if it 
is done : to dress the omelette, the fire sliould not be too hot, 
as it is an object to have the whole substance heated, without 
much browning the outside. 



334 OMELETTES. 

One of the great errors in cooking an omelette is, that it 
is too thin ; consequently, instead of feeling full and moist 
in the mouth, the substance presented is little better than a 
piece of fried leather : to get the omelette thick is one of the 
great objects. With respect to the flavours to be introduced, 
these are infinite ; that which is most common, however, is 
the best, viz. finely chopped parsley, and chives or onions, or 
eschalots : how^ever, one made of a mixture of tarragon, 
chervil, and parsley, is a very delicate variety, omitting or 
adding the onion or chives. Of the meat flavours, the veal 
kidney is the most delicate, and is the most admired by our 
neighbours the French : this should be cut in dice, and should 
be dressed (boiled) before it is added ; in the same manner, 
ham and anchovies, shred small, or tongue, will make a very 
delicately flavoured dish. 

The objection to an omelette is, 'that it is too rich, which 
makes it advisable to eat but a small quantity. An addition 
of some finely mashed potatoes, about two table-spoonfuls, 
to an omelette of six eggs, will much lighten it. 

Omelettes are often served with rich gravy; but, as a gene- 
ral principle, no substance which has been fried should be 
served in gravy, but accompanied by it . or what ought to 
eat dry and crisp, becomes soddened and flat. 

In the compounding the gravy, great care should be taken 
that the fla\'t)ur does not overcome that of the omelette, a 
thing too little attended to : a fine gravy, with a flavouring 
of sweet herbs and onions, w^ e think the best ; some add a few 
drops of tarragon vinegar ; but this is to be done only with 
great care : gravies to Omelettes are in general thickened : 
this should never be done with flour ; potato starch, or arrow 
root, is the best. 

Omelettes should be fried in a small frying-pan made for 
that purpose, with a small quantity of butter. The omelette's 
great merit is to be thick, so as not to taste of the outside ; 
therefore use only half the number of whites that you do 
yelks of eggs : every care must be taken in frying, even at 
the risk of not having it quite set in the middle : an omelette, 
which has so much vogue abroad, is here, in general, a thin 
doubled-up piece of leather, and harder than soft leather 
sometimes. The fact is, that as much care must be bestowed 
on the frying, as should be taken in poaching an egg. A 
salamander is necessary to those who will have the top 
brown ; but the kitchen shovel may be substituted for it. 

The following receipt is the basis of all omelettes, of 
which you may make an endless variety, by taking, instead 
of the parsley and eschalot, a portion of sweet herbs, or any 



OMELETTES. 335 

of the articles enumerated in the table of materials used for 
making- forcemeats, see No. 373 ; or any of the forcemeats 
between Nos. 373 and 386. 

Omelettes are called by the name of what is added to 
flavour them : a ham or tongue omelette ; an ancliovy, or 
veal kidney omelette, &c. : these are prepared exactly m the 
same way as in the first receipt, leaving out the parsley and 
eschalot, and mincing the ham or kidney very fine, &c., and 
adding that in the place of them, and then pour over them all 
sorts of thickened gravies, sauces, &c. 

Receipt for the common Omelette. 

Five or six eggs will make a good-sized omelette ; break 
them into a basin, and beat them well with a fork ; and add 
a salt-spoonful of salt ; have ready chopped two drachms of 
onion, or three drachms of parsley, a good clove of eschalot 
minced very fine ; beat it well up with the eggs ; then take 
four omices of fresh butter, and break half of it into little 
bits, and put it into the omelette, and the other half into a very 
clean frying-pan ; when it is melted, pour in the omelette, 
and stir it with a spoon till it begins to set, then turn it up all 
round the edges, and when it is of a nice brown it is done : 
the safest way to take it out is to put a plate on the omelette, 
and turn the pan upside-down : serve it on a hot dish ; it 
should never be done till just wanted. If maigre, grated 
cheese, shrimps, or oysters. If oysters, boil them four 
minutes, and take away the beard and gristly part ; they may 
either be put in whole, or cut in bits. Or, 

Take eggs ready boiled hard, and either fry them whole, 
or cut them in half; when they are boiled (they will take five 
minutes), let them lie in cold water till you want to use them; 
then roll them lightly with your hand on a table, and they 
will peel without breaking ; put them on a (^loth to dry, and 
dredge them lightly with flour ; beat two eggs in a basin, dip 
the eggs in, one at a time, and then roll tliem in fine bread- 
crumbs, or in duck (No. 378) or veal stuffing (No. 374); set 
them away ready for frying ; fry them in hot oil or clarified 
butter, serve them up Avith mushroom sauce, or any otlier 
thickened sauce you please ; crisp parsley is a pretty gar- 
nish. Or, 

Do not boil the eggs till wanted ; boil them ten minutes, 
peel them as above, cut them in half, put them on a dish, and 
have ready a sauce made of two ounces of butter and flour 
well rubbed together on a plate, and put it in a stew-pan with 
three i^uarters of a pint of good milk ; set it on the fire, and 



336 EGGS. 

stir it till it boils ; if it is not quite smooth, strain it through 
a sieve, chop some parsley and a clove of eschalot as fine as 
possible, and put in your sauce : season it with salt to your 
taste : a little mace and lemon-peel boiled with the sauce, 
will improve it : if you like it still richer, you may add a 
little cream, or the yelks of two eggs, beat up with two table- 
spoonfuls of milk, and stir it in the last thing : do not let it 
boil after; place the half eggs on a dish with the yelks 
upward, and pour the sauce over them. 

N.B. Any cold fish cut in pieces may be warmed in the 
above sauce for a sent dinner. Or, 

Slice very thin two onions weighing about two ounces 
each; put them into a stew-pan with three ounces of butter; 
keep them covered till they are just done ; stir them every 
now and then, and when they are of a nice brown, stir in as 
much flour as will make them of a stitf paste ; then by de- 
grees add as much water or milk as will make it the thick- 
ness of good cream; season it with pepper and salt to your 
taste ; have ready boiled hard four or five eggs — you may 
either shred them, or cut them in halves or quarters ; then 
put them in the sauce: when they are hot they are ready: 
garnish them with sippets of bread. 

Or, have ready a plain omelette, cut into bits, and put them 
into the sauce. 

Or, cut off" a little bit of one end of the eggs, so that they 
may stand up ; and take out the yelks whole of some of them, 
and cut the whites in half, or in quarters. 

Obs. — This is called in the Parisian kitchen, " eggs a la trip, 
with a roux." 

Marrow-Bones, — (No. 544.) 

Saw the bones even, so that they will stand steady; put a 
piece of paste into the ends : set them upright in a saucepan, 
and boil till they are done enough : a beef marrow-bone will 
require from an hour and a half to two hours ; serve fresh- 
toasted bread with them. 

Eggs fried with Bacon. — (No. 545.) 

Lay some slices of fine streaked bacon (not more than a 
quarter of an inch thick) in a clean dish, and toast them 
before the fire in a cheese-toaster, turning them when the 
upper side is browned ; first ask those who are to eat the 
bacon, if they wish it much or little done, i. e. curled and 
crisped, see No. 526, or mellow and soft (No. 527) : if the 
latter, parboil it first. 



EGGS. 337 

Well-cleansed (see No. 83) dripping, or lard, or fresh but 
ter, are the best fats for frying eggs. 

Be sure the frying-pan is quite clean ; when the fat is hot, 
break two or three eggs into it ; do not turn them, but, while 
they are frying, keep pouring some of the fat over them with 
a spoon; when the yelk just begins to look white, which it 
will in about a couple of minutes, they are done enough ; 
the white must not lose its transparency, but the yelk be 
seen blushing through it : if they are done nicely, they will 
look as white and delicate as if they had been poached ; take 
them up with a tin slice, drain the fat from them, trim them 
neatly, and send them up with the bacon round them. 

Ragout of Eggs and Bacon. — (No. 545*.) 

Boil half a dozen eggs for ten minutes ; throw them into 
cold water ; peel them and cut them into halves ; poimd the 
yelks in a marble mortar, with about an equal quantity of 
the white meat of dressed fowl, or veal, a little chopped pars- 
ley, an anchovy, an eschalot, a quarter of an ounce of butter, 
a table-spoonful of mushroom catchup, a little Cayenne, some 
bread-crumbs, and a very little beaten mace, or allspice ; 
incorporate them well together, and fill the halves of the 
whites with this mixture ; do them over with the yelk of an 
egg, and brown them in a Dutch oven, and serve them on 
relishing rashers of bacon or ham, see No. 527. 

For sauce, melted butter, flavoured to the fancy of the 
eaters, with mushroom catchup, anchovy, curry-powder (No. 
455), or zest (No. 255). 

To poach Eggs. — (No. 546.) 

The cook who wishes to display her skill in poaching, 
must endeavour to procure eggs that have been laid a couple 
of days — those that are quite new-laid are so milky that, take 
all the care you can, your cooking of them will seldom pro- 
cure you the praise of being a prime poacher; you must 
have fresh eggs, or it is equally impossible. 

The beauty of a poached egg is for the yelk to be seen 
blushing through the white, which should only be just suffi- 
ciently hardened, to form a transparent veil for the egg. 

Have some boiling water* in a tea-kettle ; pass as much 
of it through a clean cloth as will half fill a stew-pan ; break 
the egg into a cup, and when the water boils, remove the 
stew-pan from the stove, and gently slip the egg into it ; it 

• Straining tiie water is an indispensable precaution, unless you use spring-water. 

Ff 



338 EGG3. 

must stand till the white is set; then put it over a very 
moderate fire, and as soon as the water boils, the egg is 
ready; take it up with a slice, and neatly round off the ragged 
edges of the white ; send them up on bread toasted on one 
side only,* with or without butter ; or without a toast, gar- 
nished with streaked bacon (Nos. 526 or 527), nicely fried, 
or as done in No. 545, or slices of broiled beef or mutton 
(No. 487), anchovies (Nos. 434 and 435), pork sausages (No. 
87), or spinage (No. 122). 

Obs. — The bread should be a little larger than the egg, and 
about a quarter of an inch thick ; only just give it a yellow 
colour : if you toast it brown, it will get a bitter flavour ; or 
moisten it by pouring a little hot water upon it : some sprinkle 
it with a few drops of vinegar, or of essence of anchovy 
(No. 433). 

To boil Eggs to eat in the Shell, or for Salads. — (No. 547.) 

The fresher laid the better: put them into boiling water ; 
if you like the white just set,t about two minutes boiling is 
enough ; a new-laid egg will take a little more ; if you wish 
the yelk to be set, it will take three, and to boil it hard for a 
salad, ten minutes. See No. 372. 

Obs. — A new-laid egg will require boiling longer than a 
stale one, by half a minute. 

Tin machines for boiling eggs on the breakfast table are 
sold by the ironmongers, Avhich perform the process very 
regularly: in four minutes the white is just set. 

N.B. "Eggs maybe preserved for twelve months, in a 
sweet and palatable state for eating in the shell, or using for 
salads, by boiling them for one minute ; and when wanted 
for use let them be boiled in tlie usual manner : the white 
may be a little tougher than a new-laid egg, but the yelk will 
show no difference." — See Hunter's Culina, page 257. 

Eggs poached with Sauce of minced Ham. — (No. 548.) 

Poach the eggs as before directed, and take two or three 
slices of boiled ham ; mince it fine with a gherkin, a morsel 
of onion, a little parsley, and pepper and salt; stew all 
together a quarter of an hour ; serve up your sauce about 

* "A couple of poached eggs, with a few fine, dry, fried coUops of ptue baron, 
are not bad for breakfast, or to begin a meal," says Sir Kenelm Digby, M.D. in hia 
Oloset of CoukerT/, London, 1669, page 167. 

t " The liiihtest mode of preparina; egffs for the table, Is to boil them only as long 
as is necessary to coagulate sliahilv the greater part of the white, without depriving 
tiis yelk of its fluidity."— Dr. Pearson's Mat. .ilim. 8vo. 1808, p. 36. 



TEA. 339 

half boiling ; put the eggs in a dish, squeeze over the juice 
of half a Seville orange, or lemon, and pour the sauce over 
them. 

Fried Eggs and minced Ham or Bacon. — (No. 549.) 

Choose some very fine bacon streaked with a good deal of 
lean ; cut this into very thin slices, and afterward into small 
square pieces ; throw them into a stew-pan, and set it over a 
gentle fire, that they may lose some of their fat. When as 
much as will freely come is thus melted from them, lay them 
on a warm dish. Put into a stew-pan a ladle-full of melted 
bacon or lard ; set it on a stove ; put in about a dozen of the 
small pieces of bacon, then stoop the stew-pan and break in 
an egg. Manage this carefully, and the egg will presently 
be done : it will be very round, and the little dice of bacon 
will stick to it all over, so that it will make a very pretty 
appearance. Take care the yelks do not harden ; Avhen the 
egg is thus done, lay it carefully in a warm dish, and do the 
others. 

*^* They reckon 685 ways of dressing eggs in the French 
kitchen: we hope our half dozen receipts give sufficient 
variety for the English kitchen. 

Tea.*— (No. 550.) 

" The Jesuit that came from China, A. D. 1664, told Mr. 
Waller, that to a drachm of tea they put a pint of water, and 

* VARIOUS WAYS OF MAKING TEA. 
1. 

" The Japanese reduce their tea to a fine powder by pounding it ; they put certain 
portions of this into a tea-cup, pour boiling water upon it, stir it up, and drink it as 
soon as it is cool enough." 

2. 

" dubuisson's manner of making tea. 
" Put the tea into a kettle with cold water ; cover it close, set it on the fire, and 
make it all but boil ; when you see a sort of white scum on the surface, take it from 
the fire ; when the leaves sink it is ready." 

3. 

The night before you wish to have tea ready for drinking, pour on it as much 
cold water as you wish to make tea ; next morning pour off the clear liquor, and 
when you wish to drink it, make it warm." 

The above are irova '■'■L'Art du Limonadier''' de Dubthsson, Paris, p. 267, 
268. Or, 

4, 
" A great saving may be made by making a tincture of tea, thug : pour boiling 
water upon it, and let it stand twenty minutes, putting into each cup no more than 
is necessary to fill it about one-third full : fill each cup up with hot water from an 
urn or kottie ; thus the tea will be always hot and equally strong to the end, and 
one lea-spoonful will be found enough for ihnre cups for each person: according to 



340 PUDDINGS. 

frequently take the yelks of two new-laid eg-g-s, and beat 
them up with as much fine sugar as is sufficient for the tea, 
and stir all well tog-ether. He also informed him, that we 
let the hot water remain too long soaking upon the tea, which 
makes it extract into itself the earthy parts of the herb ; the 
water must remain upon it no longer than while you can say 
the ' Miserere^ psalm very leisurely ; you have then only the 
spiritual part of the tea, the proportion of which to the water 
must be about a drachm to a pint." — Sir Kenelm Digby's 
Cookery, London, 1669, page 176. 

Ohs. — The addition of an egg makes the " Chinese Soup^^ 
a more nutritious and substantial meal for a traveller. 

Coffee* 

Coffee, as used on the Continent, serves the double purpose 
of an agreeable tonic, and an exhilarating beverage, without 
the unpleasant effects of wine. 

Coffee, as drunk in England, debilitates the stomach, and 
produces a slight nausea. In France and in Italy it is made 
strong from the best coffee, and is poured out hot and trans- 
parent. 

In England it is usually made from bad coffee, served out 
tepid and muddy, and droAvned in a deluge of water, and 
sometimes deserves the title given it in " the Petition against 
Coffee," 4to. 1674, page 4, " a base, black, thick, nasty, bitter, 
stinking puddle water." 

To make Coffee fit for use, you must employ the German 
filter, — pay at least 45. the pound for it, — and take at least an 
ounce for two breakfast-cups. 

No coffee will bear drinking with what is called milk in 
London. 

London people should either take their coffee pure, or put 
a couple of tea-spoonfuls of cream to each cup. 

N.B. The above is a contribution from an intelligent tra- 
veller, who has passed some years on the Continent 

Suet Pudding, Wiggifs way. — (No. 551.) 
Suet, a quarter of a pound ; flour, three table-spoonfuls ; 

tlie present mode of making it, three times the quantity is often used."— See Dr. 
Trusler's Way to be Rich and Respectable, 8vo. 1796, page 27. 

[Tea should only be made as an infusion, — that is, pouring boiling hot water upon 
it, and letting it stand a few minutes to draw. A.] 

* See Dr. Houghton on CotTee, in vol. xxi. of the Phil. Trans, page 311. 

[The best of coffee is imported into this country, and can be had cheap and 
good. A.] 



PUDDINGS. 341 

eggs, two; and a little grated ginger; milk, half a pint. 
Mince the suet as fine as possible, roll it with the rolling-pin 
so as to mix it well with the flour ; beat up the eggs, mix 
them with the milk, and then mix all together ; wet your 
cloth well in boiling water, flour it, tie it loose, put it into 
boiling water, and boil it an hour and a quarter. 

Mrs. Giasse has it, "when you have made your water 
boil, then put 3'-our pudding into your pot." 

Yorkshire Pudding under roast Meat, the Gipsies'' way. 
(No. 552.) 

This pudding is an especially excellent accompaniment to 
a sir-loin of beef, — loin of veal, — or any fat and juicy joint. 

Six table-spoonfuls of flour, three eggs, a tea-spoonful of 
salt, and a pint of milk, so as to make a middling stiff" batter, 
a little stiffer than you would for pancakes ; beat it up well, 
and take care it is not lumpy ; put a dish under the meat, and 
let the drippings drop into it till it is quite hot and well 
greased ; then pour in the batter ; — when the upper surface 
is brown and set, turn it, that both sides may be brown alike : 
if you wish it to cut firm, and the pudding an inch thick, it 
will take two hours at a good fire. 

N.B. The true Yorkshire pudding is about half an inch 
thick when done ; but it is the fasliion in London to make 
them full twioe that thickness. 

Plum Pudding.— {T<io. 553.) 

Suet, chopped fine, six ounces ; Malaga raisins, stoned, 
six ounces ; currants, nicely washed and picked, eight ounces ; 
bread-crumbs, three ounces ; flour, three ounces ; eggs, three; 
sixth of a nutmeg; small blade of mace ; same quantity of cin- 
namon, pounded as fine as possible ; half a tea-spoonful of salt ; 
half a pint of milk, or rather less ; sugar, four ounces : to which 
maybe added, candied lemon, one ounce ; citron, half an ounce. 
Beat the eggs and spice well together; mix the milk with 
them by degrees, then the rest of the ingredients ; dip a fine 
close linen cloth into boiling water, and put it in a hair-sieve ; 
flour it a little, and tie it up close ; put it into a saucepan 
containing six quarts of boiling w^ater: keep a kettle of 
boiling water along side of it, and fill up your pot as it wastes; 
be sure to keep it boiling six hours at least. 

My Pudding.— {No. 554.) 

Beat up the yelks and whites of three eggs ; strain them 

Ff2 



842 PUDDINGS. 

through a sieve (to keep out the treddles), and gradually add 
to them about a quarter of a pint of milk, — stir these well to- 
gether; rub together in a mortar two ounces of moist sugar, 
and as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, — stir 
these into the eggs and milk ; then put in four ounces of flour, 
and beat it into a smooth batter ; by degrees stir into it seven 
ounces of suet (minced as fine as possible), and three ounces 
of bread-crumbs ; mix all thoroughly together at least half 
an hour before you put the pudding into the pot; put it into 
an earthenware pudding-mould that you have well buttered ; 
tie a pudding-cloth over it very tight ; put it into boiling water, 
and boil it three hours. 

Put one good plum into it, and Moost-Aye says, you may 
then tell the economist that you have made a good plum pud- 
ding — without plums: this would be what schoolboys call 
" mile-stone pudding," i. e. " a mile between one plum and 
another." 

N.B. Half a pound of Muscatel raisins cut in half, and 
added to the above, will make a most admirable plum pud- 
ding : a little grated lemon-peel may be added. 

Ohs. — If the water ceases to boil, the pudding will become 
heavy, and be spoiled; if properly managed, this and the 
following will be as fine puddings of the kind as art can pro- 
duce. 

Puddings are best when mixed an hour or two before they 
are boiled ; the ingredients by that means amalgamate, and 
the whole becomes richer and fuller of flavour, especially if 
the various articles be thoroughly well stirred together. 
' A table-spoonful of treacle will give it a rich brown colour. 
See pudding sauce, No. 269, and pudding catchup. No. 446. 

N.B. This pudding may be baked in an oven, or under 
meat, the same as Yorkshire pudding (No. 552) ; make it 
the same, only add half a pint of milk more : should it be 
above an inch and a quarter in thickness, it will take full two 
hours : it requires careful watching, for if the top gets burned, 
an empyreumatic flavour will pervade the whole of the pud- 
ding. Or, butter some tin mince-pie patty-pans, or saucers, 
and fill them with pudding, and set them in a Dutch oven ; 
they will take about an hour. 

Maigre Plum Pudding. 

Simmer half a pint of milk with two blades of mace, and 
a roll of lemon-peel, for ten minutes ; then strain it into a 
basin ; set it away to get cold : in the mean time beat three 
eggs in a basin with three ounces of loaf-sugar, and the third 



PUDDINGS. 343 

of a nutmeg- : then add three ounces of flour ; beat it well 
together, and add the milk by degrees: then put in three 
ounces of fresh butter broken into small pieces, and three 
ounces of bread-crumbs ; three ounces of currants washed 
and picked clean, three ounces of raisins stoned and chopped : 
stir it all well tog-ether. Butter a mould ; put it in, and tie 
a cloth tight over it. Boil it two hours and a half. Serve 
it up with melted butter, two table-spoonfuls of brandy, and 
a little loaf-sugar. 

A Fat Pudding. 

Break five eggs in a basin ; beat them up with a tea-spoon- 
ful of sugar and a table-spoonful of flour; beat it quite 
smooth ; then put to it a pound of raisins, and a pound of 
suet ; it must not be chopped very fine ; butter a mould well ; 
put in the pudding ; tie a cloth over it tight, and boil it five 
hours. 

N.B. This is very rich, and is commonly called a marrow 
pudding. 

Pease Pudding. — (No. 555.) 

Put a quart of split pease into a clean cloth ; do not tie 
them up too close, but leave a little room for them to swell ; 
put them on in cold water, to boil slowly till they are tender : 
if they are good pease they will be boiled enough in about 
two hours and a half; rub them through a sieve into a deep 
dish, adding* to them an egg or two, an ounce of butter, and 
some pepper and salt ; beat them well together for about ten 
minutes, when these ingredients are well incorporated to- 
gether ; then flour the cloth well, put the pudding in, and tie 
it up as tight as possible, and boil it an hour longer. It is 
as good with boiled beef as it is with boiled pork ; and why 
not with roasted pork ? 

Obs. — This is a very good accompaniment to cold pork or 
cold beef. 

N.B. Stir this pudding into two quarts of the liquor meat 
or poultry has been boiled in ; gi^e it a boil up, and in five 
minutes it will make excellent extempore pease soup, espe- 
cially if the pudding has been boiled in the same pot as the 
meat (see No. 218, &c.) Season it with pease powder, No. 
458. 

* To increase the bulk and diminish the expense of this pudding, the economical 
housekeeper, who has a large family to feed, may now add two pounds of potatoes 
that liave been boiled and well mashed. To many this mixture is more agreeable 
tiian peaae pudding alone. See also No. 107. 



344 PUDDINGS. 

Plain Bread Pudding. — (No. 556.) 

Make five ounces of bread-crumbs ; put them in a basin ; 
pour three quarters of a pint of boiling milk over them ; put a 
plate over the top to keep in the steam ; let it stand twenty 
minutes, then beat it up quite smooth with two ounces of 
sugar and a salt-spoonful of nutmeg. Break four eggs on a 
plate, leaving out one white ; beat them well, and add them 
to the pudding. Stir it all well together, and put it in a mould 
that has been well buttered and floured ; tie a cloth over it, 
and boil it one hour. 

Bread and butter Pudding. — (No. 557.) 

You must have a dish that will hold a quart : wash and 
pick two ounces of currants ; strew a few at the bottom of 
the dish ; cut about four layers of very thin bread and butter, 
and between each layer of bread and butter strew some cur- 
rants ; then break four eggs in a basin, leaving out one white ; 
beat them well, and add four ounces of sugar and a drachm 
of nutmeg ; stir it well together with a pint of new milk ; 
pour it over about ten minutes before you put it in the oven ; 
it will take three quarters of an hour to bake. 

Pancakes and Fritters. — (No. 558.) 

Break three eggs in a basin; beat them up with a little 
nutmeg and salt ; thea put to them four ounces and a half of 
flour, and a little milk ; beat it of a smooth batter ; then add 
by degrees as much milk as will make it of the thickness of 
good cream : the frying-pan must be about the size of a pud- 
ding plate, and very clean, or they will stick ; make it hot, 
and to each pancake put in a bit of butter about as big as a 
walnut : when it is melted, pour in the batter to cover the 
bottom of the pan ; make them the thickness of half a crown; 
fry them of a light brown on both sides. 

The above will do for apple fritters, by adding one spoon- 
ful more of flour ; peel your apples, and cut them in thick 
slices ; take out the core, dip them in the batter, and fry them 
m hot lard ; put them on a sieve to drain ; dish them neatly, 
and grate some loaf-sugar over them. 

Tansy Pancakes. 

The batter for the preceding may be made into tansy pan- 
cakes by cutting fine a handful of young green tansy, and 
beating it into the batter. It gives the cakes a pleasant aro- 
matic flavour, and an agreeable, mild bitter taste. A. 



PUDDINGS. 345 

No. 560. 

The following- receipts are from Mr. Henry Osborne, cook 
to Sir Joseph Banks, the late president of the Royal Society : 

Soho Square, April 20, 1820. 
Sir, — I send you herewith the last part of the Cook's Ora- 
cle. I have attentively looked over each receipt, and hope 
they are now correct, and easy to be understood. If you 
think any need further explanation. Sir Joseph has desired 
me to wait on you again. I also send the receipts for my 
ten puddings, and my method of using spring fruit and gourds 

I am, Sir, 

Your humble servant, 

Henry Osborne. 

Boston Apple Pudding. 

Peel one dozen and a half of good apples ; take out the 
cores, cut them small, put into a stew-pan that will just hold 
them, with a little water, a little cinnamon, two cloves, and 
the peel of a lemon; stew over a slow fire till quite soft, then 
sweeten with moist sugar, an- 1 pass it throuo-h a hair sieve ; 
add to it the yelks of four "ggs and one white, a quarter of 
a pound of good butter, hah a nutmeg, the peel of a lemon 
grated, and the juice of one lemon: beat all well together; 
line the inside of a pie-dish with good puff paste ; put in the 
pudding, and bake half an hour. 

Spring Fruit Pudding. 

Peel, and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb : put into 
a stew-pan with the pudding a lotuon, a little cinnamon, and 
as much moist sugar as will mak:^ it quite sweet ; set it over 
a fire, and reduce it to a marmni.ide ; pass through a hair- 
sieve, and proceed as directed for the Boston pudding, leaving 
out the lemon-juice, as the rhubarb will be found sufficiently 
acid of itself. 

If- 

Kottingham Pudding. 

Peel six good apples ; take out the core with the point of a 
small knife, or an apple corer, if you have one ; but be sure 
to leave the apples whole ; fill up where you took the core 
from with sugar ; place them in a pie-dish, and pour over 
them a nice light batter, prepared as for batter pudding, and 
Dake an hour in a moderate oven. 



346 PUDDINGS. 

Batter Pudding. 

Take six ounces of fine flour, a little salt, and three eg-gs ; 
beat up well with a little milk, added by deg-rees till the bat- 
ter is quite smooth ; make it the thickness of cream ; put 
into a buttered pie-dish, and bake three quarters of an hour ; 
or into a buttered and floured basin, tied over tight with a 
cloth : boil one and a half hour, or two hours. 

Newmarket Pudding. 

Put on to boil a pint of g-ood milk, with half a lemon-peel, 
a little cinnamon, and a bay-leaf; boil g^ently for five or ten 
minutes ; sweeten with loaf sugar ; break the yelks of five, 
and the w^hites of three eggs, into a basin ; beat them well, 
and add the milk : beat all well together, and strain through 
a fine hair-sieve, or tamis : have some bread and butter cut 
very thin ; lay a layer of it in a pie-dish, and then a layer of 
currants, and so on till the dish is nearly full ; then pour the 
custard over it, and bake half an hour. 

Newcastle^ or Cabinet Pudding. 

Butter a half melon mould, or quart basin, and stick all 
round with dried cherries, or fine raisins, and fill up with 
bread and butter, &c. as in the above ; and steam it an hour 
and a half. 

Vermicelli Pudding. 

Boil a pint of milk. Math lemon-peel and cinnamon ; 
sweeten with loaf-sugar ; strain through a sieve, and add a 
quarter of a pound of vermicelli ; boil ten minutes ; then put 
in the yelks of five, and the whites of three eggs ; mix well 
together, and steam it one hour and a quarter : the same may 
be baked half an hour. 

« r 

Bread Pudding. 

Make a pint of bread-crumbs ; put them in a stew-pan with 
as much milk as will cover them, the peel of a lemon, a little 
tiutmeg grated, and a small piece «f cinnamon ; boil about 
ten minutes ; sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar ; take out 
the Cinnamon, and put in four eggs ; beat all well together, 
and bake half an hour, or boil rather more than an hour. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 347 

Custard Pudding: 

Boil a pint of milk, and a quarter of a pint of good cream ; 
thicken with flour and water made perfectly smooth, till it is 
stiff enough to bear an egg on it ; break in the yelks of five 
eggs; sweeten with powdered loaf-sugar; grate in a little 
nutmeg and the peel of a lemon : add half a glass of good 
brandy ; then whip the whites of the five eggs till quite stiff, 
and mix gently all together : line a pie-dish with good puff 
paste, and bake half an hour. 

N.B. Ground rice, potato flour, panada, and all puddings 
made from powders, are, or maybe, prepared in the same way. 

Boiled Custards, 

Put a quart of new milk into a stew-pan, with the peel of a 
lemon cut very thin, a little grated nutmeg, a bay or laurel-leaf, 
and a small stick of cinnamon ; set it over a quick fire, but 
be careful it does not boil over : when it boils, set it beside 
the fire, and simmer ten minutes ; break the yelks of eight, 
and the Avhites of four eggs into a basin ; beat them well ; 
then pour in the milk a liale at a time, stirring it as quick 
as possible to prevent the eggs curdling ; set it on the fire 
again, and stir it well with a wooden spoon; let it have just 
one boil; pass it through a tamis, or fine sieve : when cold, 
add a little brandy, or white wine, as may be most agreeable 
to the eater's palate. Serve up in glasses, or cups. 

Custards for bakingare prepared as above, passed through 
a fine sieve ; put them into cups ; grate a little nutmeg over 
each : bake them about 15 or 20 minutes. 

TO DRESS SPRING FRUIT. 

Spring Fruit Soup. 

Peel and well wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb ; blanch it 
in water three or four minutes; drain it on a sieve, and put 
it into a stew-pan, with two onions sliced, a carrot, an ounce 
of lean ham, and a good bit o^ butter ; Ifet it stew gently over 
a slow firt till tender ; then put in two quarts of good con- 
somme, to which add two or three ounces of bread-crumbs ; 
boil about fifteen minutes ; skim off all the fat ; season with 
salt and Cayenne pepper ; pass it through a tamis, and serve 
up with fried bread. 

Spring Fruit Pudding, 
Clean as above three or four dozen sticks of rhubarb ; put 



348 MISCELLANEOUS. 

it in a stew-pan, with the peel of a lemon, a bit of cinnamon, 
two cloves, and as much moist sugar as will sweeten it ; set 
it over a fire, and reduce it to a marmalade ; pass it through 
a hair-sieve ; then add the peel of a lemon, and half a nutmeg 
grated, a quarter of a pound of good butter, and the yelks of 
four eggs and one white, and mix all well together ; line a 
pie-dish, that will just contain it, with good puff paste ; put 
the mixture in, and bake it half an hour. 

Spring Fruit — A Mock Gooseberry Sauce for Mackerel, ^c. 

Make a marmalade of three dozen sticks of rhubarb, sweet- 
ened with moist sugar ; pass it through a hair-sieve, and 
serve up in a sauce-boat. 

Spring Fruit Tart. 

Prepare rhubarb as above : cut it into small pieces into a 
tart-dish ; sweeten with loaf-sugar pounded ; cover it with a 
good short crust paste ; sift a little sugar over the top, and 
bake half an hour in a rather hot oven : serve up cold. 

Spring Cream, or mock Gooseberry Fool. 

Prepare a marmalade as directed for the pudding : to which 
add a pint of good thick cream ; serve up in glasses, or in a 
deep dish. If wanted in a shape, dissolve two ounces of 
isinglass in a little water; strain it through a tamis, and 
when nearly cold put it to the cream; pour it mto a jelly 
mould, and when set, turn out into a dish, and serve up plain. 

Spring Fruit Sherbet. 

Boil six or eight sticks of rhubarb (quite clean) ten 
minutes in a quart of water; strain the liquor through a 
tamis into a jug, with the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and 
two table-spoonfuls of clarified sugar ; let it stand five or six 
hours, and it is fit to drink. 

Gourds (now called vegetable Marrow) stewed. 

Take off all the skin of six or eight gourds, put them into a 
*tew-pan, with water, salt, lemon-juice, and a bit of butter, 
or fat bacon, and let them stew gently till quite tender, and 
serve up with a rich Dutch sauce, or any other sauce you 
please that is piquante. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 349 

Gourd Soup, 

Should be made of full-grown gourds, but not those that 
have hard skins ; slice three or four, and put them in a stew- 
pan, with two or three onions, and a good bit of butter ; set 
them over a slow fire till quite tender (be careful not to let 
them burn) ; then add two ounces of crust of bread, and two 
quarts of good consomme; season with salt and Cayemie 
pepper: boiltenminutes, or a quarterof anhour ; skim off all 
the fat, and pass it through a tamis ; then make it quite hot, 
and serve up with fried bread. 

Fried Gourds, 

Cut five or six gourds in quarters ; take off the skin and 
pulp ; stew them in the same manner as for table : when 
done, drain them quite dry; beat up an egg, and dip the 
gourds in it, and cover them well over with bread-crumbs ; 
make some hog's-lard hot, and fry them a nice light colour ; 
throw a little salt and pepper over them, and serve up 
quite dry. 

Another Way. 

Take six or eight small gourds, as near of a size as pos- 
sible ; slice them with a cucumber-slice ; dry them in a cloth, 
and then fry them in very hot lard ; throw over a little pep- 
per and salt, and serv^e up on a napkin. Great attention is 
requisite to do these well ; if the fat is quite hot they are done 
in a minute, and will soon spoil ; if not hot enough, they will 
eat greasy and tough. 

To make Beef, Mutton, or Veal Tea.— (No. 563.) 

Cut a pound of lean gravy meat into thin slices ; put it into 
a quart and half a pint of cold water ; set it over a very gentle 
fire, where it will become gradually warm ; when the scum 
rises, let it continue simmering gently for about an hour ; 
then strain it through a fine sieve or a napkin ; let it stand ten 
minutes to settle, and then pour off the clear tea. 

N.B. An onion, and a few grains of black pepper, are 
sometimes added. 

If the meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, you may 
mince it and pound it as directed in No. 503, and make potted 
beef. 

To make half a pint of beef tea in five minutes for three 
halfpence, see No. 252. 



350 MISCELLANEOUS. 

Mutton Broth for the Sick.^{No. 564.) 

Have a pound and a half of a neck or loin of mutton ; take 
off the skin and the fat, and put it into a saucepan ; cover it 
with cold water, (it will take about a quart to a pound of 
meat,) let it simmer very gently, and skim it well ; cover it 
up, and set it over a moderate fire, where it may stand gently 
stewing for about an hour ; then strain it off. It should be 
allowed to become cold, when all the greasy particles will 
float on the surface, and becoming hard, can be easily taken 
off, and the settlings will remain at the bottom. 

See also Nos. 490 and 252. 

N.B. We direct the meat to be done no more than just 
sufficiently to be eaten ; so a sick man may have plenty of 
good broth for nothing ; as by this manner of producing it, 
the meat furnishes also a good family meal. 

Obs. — This is an inoffensive nourishment for sick persons, 
and the only mutton broth that should be given to convales- 
cents, whose constitutions require replenishing with restora- 
tive aliment of easy digestion. The common way of making 
it with roots, onions, sweet herbs, &c. &c. is too strong for 
weak stomachs. Plain broth will agree with a delicate sto- 
mach, when the least addition of other ingredients would 
immediately offend it. 

For the various ways of flavouring broth, see No. 527. 

Few know how much good may be done by such broth, 
taken in sufficient quantity at the beginning and decline of 
bowel complaints and fevers ; half a pint taken at a time. 
See the last two pages of the 7th chapter of the Rudiments 
of Cookery. 

Barley Water.* — (No. 565.) 

Take a couple of ounces of pearl barley, wash it clean with 
cold water, put it into half a pint of boiling water, and let it 
boil for five minutes ; pour off this water, and add to it two 
quarts of boiling water : boil it to two pints, and strain it. 

The above is simple barley water. To a quart of this is 
frequently added 

Two ounces of figs, sliced ; 

The same of raisins, stoned ; 

Half an ounce of liquorice, sliced and bruised ; 

And a pint of water. 

Boil it till it is reduced to a quart, and strain. 

Obs. — These drinks are intended to assuage thirst in ardent 

* Ground barley, or barley-menl, is sold in this city ; with which barley water 
gruel or a panada may be readiiy made, for the sick, or for soups. A. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 351 

fevers and inflammatory disorders, for which plenty of mild 
diluting- liquor is one of the principal remedies : and if not 
suggested by the medical attendant, is frequently demanded 
by honest instinct, in terms too plain to be misunderstood : 
the stomach sympathizes with every fibre of the human 
frame, and no part of it can be distressed without in some 
degree oifending the stomach : therefore it is of the utmost 
importance to sooth this grand organ, by rendering every 
thing we offer to it as elegant and agreeable as the nature 
of the case will admit of : the barley drink prepared accord- 
ing to the second receipt, will be received with pleasure by 
the most delicate palate. 

Whey.— {No. 566.) 

Make a pint of milk boil ; put to it a glass or two of white 
wine ; put it on the fire till it just boils again ; then set it on 
one side till the curd has csttled; pour off the clear whey, 
and sweeten it as you like. 

Cider is often substituted for wine, or half the quantity of 
vinegar that we have ordered wine. 

Obs. — When there is no fire in the sick room, this may be 
put hot into a bottle, and laid between the bed and mattress ; 
it will keep warm several hours. 

Toothache and anti-rheumatic Embrocation. — (No. 567.) 

In no branch of the practice of physic is there more dan 
gerous quackery, than in the dental department. 

To all people the toothache is an intolerable torment ; not 
even a philosopher can endure it patiently ; what an over- 
coming agony then must it be to a grand gourmand ! besides 
the mortification of being deprived of the means of enjoying 
that consolation which he looks to as the grand solace for all 
sublunary cares. 

When this affliction befalls him, we recommend the follow- 
ing specific for it ; — 

B; Sal volatile, three parts. 
Laudanum, one part. 

Mix, and rub the part affected frequently, or if the tooth 
which aches be hollow, drop ^^ome of this on a bit of cotton, 
and put it into the tootii. For a general faceache, or sore 
throat, moisten a bit of tlannel with it, and put it at night to 
the part affected. 



352 MISCELLANEOUS. 

Stomachic Tincture — (No. 569.) — is 

Peruvian bark, bruised, one ounce and a half. 

Orange-peel, do. one ounce. 

Brandy, or proof spirit, one pint. 

Let these ingredients steep for ten days, shaking the bottle 
every day ; let it remain quiet two days, and then decant the 
clear liquor. 

Dose — a tea-spoonful in a wineglass of water, twice a day, 
when you feel languid, i. e. when the stomach is empty, 
about an hour before dinner, and in the evening. 

This agreeable aromatic tonic is an effective help to con- 
coction ; and we are under personal obligations to it, for fre- 
quently restoring our stomach to good temper, and procuring 
us good appetite and good digestion. 

In low nervous affections arising from a languid circula- 
tion, and w^hen the stomach is in a state of debility from 
age, intemperance, or other causes, this is a most acceptable 
restorative. 

N.B. Tea made with dried and bruised Seville orange-peel, 
in the same way as common tea, and drank with milk and 
sugar, has been taken by nervous and dyspeptic persons with 
great benefit. 

Sucking a bit of dried orange-peel about an hour before 
dinner, \vhen the stomach is empty, is veiy grateful ^nd 
strengthening to it. 

Paregoric Elixir. — (No. 570.) 

A drachm of purified opium, same of flowers of benjamin, 
same of oil of aniseed, camphor, two scruples ; steep all in a 
pint of brandy or proof spirit ; let it stand ten days, occasion- 
ally shaking it up : strain. 

A tea-spoonful in half a pint of White wine whey (No. 
562), tew^ahdiddle (No. 467), or gruel (No. 572), taken the 
last thing at night, is an agreeable and effectual medicine for 
coughs and colds. It is also excellent for children who have 
the hooping-cough, in doses of from five to twenty drops in 
a little water, or on a little bit of sugar. 

Dr. Kiichiner^s Receipt to make Gruel. — (No. 572.) 

Ask those who are to eat it, if they like it thick or thin ; if 
the latter, mix well together by degrees, in a pint basin, one 
table-spoonful of oatmeal, with three of cold water ; if the 
former, use two spoonfuls. 

Have ready in a stew-pan, a pint of boiling water or milk; 



MISCELLANEOUS. 353 

pour this by degrees to the oatmeal you have mixed ; return 
it into the stew-pan ; set it on the fire, and let it boil for five 
minutes ; stirring- it all the time to prevent the oatmeal from 
burning- at the bottom of the stew-pan ; skim and strain it 
through a hair-sieve. 

2d. To convert this into caudle, add a little ale, wine, or 
brandy, with sug-ar ; and if the bowels are disordered, a little 
nutmeg- or ginger, grated. 

Obs. Gruel may be made with broth (No. 490, or No. 252, 
or No. 564), instead of w^ater ; (to make crowdie, see No. 
205*) ; and may be flavoured with sweet herbs, soup roots, 
and savoury spices, by boiling them for a few minutes in the 
water you are going to make the gruel with ; or zest (No. 
255), pease powder (No. 458), or dried mint, mushroom 
catchup (No. 409) ; or a few grains of curry powder (No. 
455) ; or savouiy ragout pOAvder (No. 457) ; or Cayeime (No. 
404) ; or celery-seed bruised, or soup herb powder (No. 459) ; 
or an onion minced very fine and bruised in with the oat- 
meal; or a little eschalot wine (No. 402); or essence of 
celery (Nos. 409, 413, 417, or No. 420), &c. 

Plain gruel, such as is directed in the first part of this 
receipt, is one of the best breakfasts and suppers that we can 
recommend to the rational epicure ; is the most comforting 
soother of an irritable stomach that we know ; and particu- 
larly acceptable to it after a hard day's work of intemperate 
feasting : when the addition of half an ounce of butter, and a 
tea-spoonful of Epsom salt, will give it an aperient quality, 
which will assist the principal viscera to get rid of their 
burden. 

"Water gruel," says Tryon in his Obs. on Health, 16mo. 
1688, p. 42, is " the king of spoon meats," and " the queen of 
soups," and gratifies nature beyond all others. 

In the " Art of Thriving," 1697, p. 8, are directions for pre- 
paring fourscore noble and wholesome dishes, upon most of 
which a man may live excellently w^ell for two-pence a day ; 
the author's Obs. on water gruel is, that " essence of oatmeal 
makes a noble and exhilarating meal !" 

Dr. Franklin's favourite breakfast was a good basin of 
warm gruel, in which there was a small slice of butter, with 
toasted bread and nutmeg ; the expense of this he reckoned 
at three halfpence. 

Scotch Burgoo.— (No. 572*.) 

" This humble dish of our northern brethren forms no con- 
temptible article of food. It possesses the grand qualities of 

Gff 2 



354 MISCELLANEOrS. 

salubrity, pleasantness, and cheapness. It is, in fact, a sort 
of oatmeal hasty pudding without milk ; much used by those 
patterns of combined industry, frug-ality, and temperance, the 
Scottish peasantry; and this, among other examples of the 
economical Scotch, is well worthj^ of being- occasionally 
adopted by all who have large families and small incomes." 

It is made in the following easy and expeditious man- 
ner; — 

" To a quart of oatmeal add gradually two quarts of water, 
so that the whole may smoothly mix : then stirring it con- 
tinually over the fire, boil it together for a quarter of an hour; 
afterwhich, take it up, and stir in a little salt and butter, with 
or without pepper. This quantity will serve a family of five 
or six persons for a moderate meal." — Oddy's Family Re- 
ceipt Book, p. 204. 

Anchovy Toast.— {No. 573.) 

Bone and wash the anchovies, pound them in a mortar 
with a little fresh butter; rub them through a sieve, and 
spread them on a toast, see Nos. 434 and 435, and No. 355. 

Obs. You may add, Avliile pounding the anchovies, a little 
made mustard and curry powder (No. 455) or a few grains 
of Cayemie, or a little mace or other spice. It may be made 
still more savoury, by frying the toast in clarified butter. 

{Deviled Biscuit, — (No. 574.) 

Is the above composition spread on a biscuit warmed 
before the fire in a Dutch oven, with a suflicient quantity of 
salt and savoury spice (No. 457), zest (No. 255), curry pow- 
der (No. 455), or Cayenne pepper sprinkled over it. 

Obs. This 7ic plus ultra of high spiced relishes, and No. 
538, frequently make their appearance at tavern dinners, 
when the votaries of Bacchus are determined to vie with each 
other in sacrificing to the jolly god. 



MARKETING TABLES, 

Showing the seasons when Meat, Poultry, and Vegetables, 
are Best and Cheapest. 



MEAT. 






"t^' 



I. =0 



lb. 01. 

13 

20 

11 

13 12 

11 



14 4 



8 4 

9 






lb. oz. 

1 8 

4 

1 4 

1 8 



1 12 



10 
2 4 



BEEF. 

THE HIND aUARTER. 



per lb. 

1. Sirloin 9 

2. Rump 9 



3. Edge-Bone 

4. Butlock, or Round 

5. Mouse ditto 

6. Veiny Piece 

7. Thick Flank 

8. Thin ditto 

9. Leg 



Roasted (No. 19), 
^ Steak to Broil (No. 94), to 
\ Stew (Nos. 500 and 501). 
Boiled (No. 8). 
5 Ditto (No. 7), or Savoury 
\ Salted Beef (No. 496). 
For Alaniode Beef (No. 502). 
Generally Baked or Salted. 

Salted. 

Ditto. 

J Soup of (No. 193), Stewed 
\ (No. 493). 



THE FORE QUARTER. 



per lb. 

10. Fore Rib, 6 Ribs. . 9 

11. Middle do., 3 do... 7 

12. Chuck do., 3 do... 5 

13. Shoulder, or Leg ) „ „ 

of Mutton Piece 5" 



14. Brisket 6 



15. Clod 4^ 

16. Neck, or Sticking )q ^v 

Piece J - 

17. Shin 2i 



18. The Head.. 
The Tail.. 
The Heels. 



( Roasted (No. 20), Boned 

} and Rolled (No. 21). 
Ditto. 
For making Gravy. 

For Steaks or Soup. 

C For Stewing (No. 494), or 
■? Haricot (No. 495),— or 
t Salted. 

j Principally used for Beef 
I Sausages. 

Ditto, or making Soup. 

C Excellent Scotch Barlev 
< Broth (No. 204), and 
( Stewed (No. 493). 
5 Soup of (No. 239), Stewed, 
\ (No. 507); and 
Do. (No. 240) , do. (No. 508.) 
J Boil«>d (No. 18*), Jelly of 
) (No. 198m Soup (No 240*). 



The Nob. refer to the receipts for dressing. 



356 



MARKETING TABLES 



MEAT. 






lb. 02. 

8 



<3 



8 4 



9 
5 



fiq |o 






lb. oz. 
13 



8 



1 
10 



MUTTON. 



1. Leg 

2. Loin, best end... 

3. Do., chump end. 



per lb. 



ii» 



4. Neck, best end 7 



5. Do., scrag end...... 5 

6. Shoulder 7 

7. Breast 5 

Head 

The Chine, or the ^ 
Saddle, two Loins, 
The Haunch is a 5> 8 
Leg, and part of 
the Loin 



( Boiled (No. 1), or Roasted 

) (No. 24). 

) Do. (No. 1,) Roasted (No. 

( 28), Chops. 

( Do. (No. 2,) Roasted (No. 

) 29), Irish Stew (No. 488), 

) Haricot (No. 489), Stew- 

( ed(No.490). 

To make Broth (No. 194). 

Roasted (No. 27). 

Grilled (06s. to No. 38). 

Broth. 

Roasted (No. 31), Venisoni- 
fied (No. 32). 



VEAL. 



per lb. 

1. Loin, best end..... 11 

2. Do., chump end... 11 

3. Fillet 1 1 

4. Knuckle, Hind 7 

Tlie whole Leg.... 104 

5. Neck, best end 11 

6. Do., scrag end 8 

The whole Neck. . 9A 

7. Blade Bone lO" 

8. Breast, best end... 11 

9. Do., brisket end... 10 

10. Knuckle, Fore 7 

The head, with the skin 

on 

Do., skinned 

Cutlets ^ 



Roasted (No. 35). 

Do do. 

C Roasted (No. 34), to make 

< Veal Olives (No. 518), 

( Scotch CoUops (No. 517*). 
I To Ragout (No. 522), to 

< Stew (No. 523), Soup of 
( (No. 193). 

Roasted (No. 37). 
Do. do. 

Roasted. 

i Stewed (No. 515) ; to Ra- 

< goat (No. 517), to Curry 
( (No. 497). 

) Stewed (No. 515) ; to Ra- 
\ gotit(No.517). 
Same as Hind Knuckle. 
{ Boiled, plain (No. 10), to 
i Hash (Nos. 10 and 520). 

( Fried (No. 90), Broiled. 

\ (No. 521). 



MARKETING TABLES. 



357 



In the foregoing table, we have given the proportions of Jorec to meat, — the former 
not being weighed till cooked, by wnich, of course, its weight was considerably 
diminished. 

These proportions differ in almost every animal, — and from the different manner 
in which thej' are cut. 

Those who pay the highest, do not always pay the dearest price. In fact, the 
best meat is the cheapest; and those who treat a tradesman liberally, have a much 
better chance of being well served, than those who are for ever bargaining for the 
market penny. In dividing the joints, there is always an opportunity of apportion 
ing the bones, fat, flaps, &c., so as to make up a variation of much more than a 
penny per pound in most pieces ; and a butcher will be happy to give the turn of his 
knife in favour of that customer who cheerfully pays the fair price of the article he 
purchases : — have those who are unwilling to do so any reason to complain 1 — have 
they not invited such conduct 1 

The gualitij of butcher's meat, varies quite as much as the price of it, according 
to its age, how it has been fed, and especially how it has been treated the week 
before it has been killed. 

The following statements were sent to us by a very respectable tradesman : — 

Beef is best and cheapest from Michaelmas to Midsummer. The price, per pound, 
now varies from M. to Is. 

Veal is best from March to July. The price varies according to the season and 
the supply; and the quality differs so much, that the same joints now sell from 5d. 
to lid. per pound. 

Mutton is best from Christmas to INIidsummer ; the difference in price between the 
worst and the best, is now from 5d. to 9d. per pound. 

Grass lamb is best from Easter to June ; house lamb from Christmas to June. 



POULTRY. 



Poultry. 



Come into Season. 



Continue. 



Cheapest. 



Chickens 

Poulards, with eggs. 
Fowls 



Capons 

Green Geese.,.. 

Geese 

Turkey poults., 

Turkeys 

Ducklings 

Ducks 



Wild ducks. 



Widgeons 

Teal 

Plovers 

Larks 

Wheatears 

Wild pigeons., 
Tame do. 



C Spring chickens... 

i April 

March 

^ Dearest in April, 
( May, and June. 

Largest at Christmas 

March 

September 

April 

September 

March 

June 

September 



November 

July 

March 



To be had all the ) 
vear j 

Till June 

To be had all the ) 
year \ 

Ditto 

Till September 

February , 

June 

March 

May 

February 

Till ditto « 



November. 

December. 

November. 

* October and 
( November. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 

do. 
( December ; 
3 but the flights 
\ are uncer- 
f tain. 



Till March Ditto. 

And during August..' 

Till September ; August. 



358 



MARKETING TABLES. 



Poultry. 



Tame rabbits 

Wild do 

Sucking pigs 

Leverets 

Hares 

Partridges 

Plieasants 

Grouse 

Moor game 

Wooodcock snipes. 



Come into Season. 



June. 



Marcli 

September . 
Do. . 

October 

August 



November. 



Contimie. 



All the year... 
Till February.. 
All the year.... 
Till September 

Till March 



Cheapest. 



November. 



Cocks' combs, fat livers, eggs, &c. are dearest in April and May, and cheapest in 
August. 

Fowls' heads may be had three for a penny; a dozen will make a very good piC; 
or soup, like No. 244. 

Turkey heads, about a penny each. 

Duck giblets, about three half-pence a set ; four sets will make a tureen of good 
soup for sixpence. See No. 244. 

Obs. — Poultry is in greatest perfection when in greatest plenty. 

The price of it varies as much as the size and quality of it, and the supply at 
market, and the demand for it. 

It is generally dearest from March to July, when the town is fullest ; and cheapest 
about September, when the game season commences, and tlie weather being colder, 
allows of its being brought from more distant parts, and the town becoming thin, 
there is less demand for it. 

The above information will, we trust, be very acceptable to economical families, 
who, from hearing the very high price poultry sometimes costs, are deterred from 
ever inquiring about it. In the cheap seasons, we have noted, it is sometimes as 
cheap as butcher's meat. 



VEGETABLES. 

The public are frequently, from want of regular information when the proper 
seasons arrive for vegetables, put to much inconvenience in attending the markets, 
making unnecessary inquiries, &c. 

The following list, it is presumed, will afford much useful information to the 
reader : — 



J^ames of Vegetables. 



Earliest time 
for forced. 



Earliest 
natural grotcth. 



When 
cheapest. 



Artichokes (No. 136) 

Ditto Jerusalem (No. 117). 

Angelica stalks, for pre- 
serving 

Asparagus (No. 123) 



Beans, French, or Kidneys. 
Scarlet ditto 



Begin, of 
Jan 

Early in 
Feb 



July on to October. . . 
From Sept. to June ] 



Middle of May, and ) 
whole of June — 5 

Mid. of April, May, I 
June, and July.. . ( 

End of June, or be- j 
irinning of July. . \ 

July 



September, 
Nov. Dec. & 
foil, months 

June. 

June and 
July. 

August, 

September, i 



MARKETING TABLES. 



359 



J^ames of Vegetables. 



Windsor beans, long pods 
and early kinds 

Beet, red (No. 127) 

Ditto, wliite, Uie leaves. .. 

Borcole, or Scotcli Cale, 
or Kale 

Broccoli (No. 126) 

Cabbage (No. 118) 

Ditto, red 

Ditto, white 

Cardoons 



Carrots (No. 129) 

Cauliflowers (No. 125). 

Celery (No. 289) 

Chervil 

Corn salad 



Cheri-il (No. 264) 

Cucumbers (No. 135). 
Endive 



Eschalots, for keeping 
(N0.4G2) 

Leeks 



Lettuce, Coss 

Ditto, cabbage 

Onions, for keeping. 



Parsley (No. 261) 

Parsnips (No. 128) 

Pease (No. 134) 

Potatoes (No. 102, &;c.) . . . . 
Radishes 



Ditto, turnip, red and 
white 



Ditto, black, Spanish. 

Small salad (No. 372). 

Salsify 

Scorzonera 

Sea Kale (No. 124).... 

Savoury cabbage 

Sorrel 



tepinage, sprmg 

Ditto, winter 

Turnips 

Ditto, tops (No. 132). 

Ditto, for salad 

Dit»n. W.lch 



Earliest time 
for forced. 



March. 



Beg.ormid. 
of May. . 

March 



Begin, of ) 
March.... i| 



Dec. & Jan. 



Earliest 
natural growth. 



June 

All the year. 
July 

November.. 



October 

May and June — 

July and August. 

October 

Nov. and three fol- 
lowing months.. 

May 

Beginning of June 

Ditto September... 

April 

May 

March, and through 
the year 

Beginning of July. . . 

June, and through 
the year 

August, and through 
the year 

September, and six 
months after,... 

April 



Aug. Sep. and fol 
lowing months.... . 

Feb. and through the 
year , 

October, and conii 
nue until May , 

June, July, and fol- 
lowing nionliis.. 

May, and through the 
year 

End of March, and 
following months. . 

Ditto 



August, and follovk' 

ing months 

All the year 

July, August , 



April and May... 

September, and fol- 
lowing months 

All the year 

March, April, and fol 
lowing months 

Oct. Nov. and follow 
ing months 

May, June, and fol 
lowing months 

March, April, ar,d 
May 

April and May. .. 

F.-briiri!v 



When 
cheapest. 



July & Aug. 
Dec. & Jan. 

Dec. & Jan. 

Feb. & Mar 
July. 
August. 
October. 

December. 

August. 
July & Aug, 
November. 
June. 



May. 

Aug. &. €ep 
Sep. & Oct. 

Sep. & two 

fol. months 
Novem. and 

December. 
June, July 

and Aug. 
October and 

November 
Febmary & 

March. 

July. 

August, and 

fol. month 

June, 

May & June 

June. 
June. 

September. 

May & June 
August. 



May. 

November. 
June & July 
June & July 

November. 

.Tune & July 

April and 

May. 
June and 

Jill v. 



APPENDIX ; 

COMPRISIIS'G 

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING 

PASTRY, PRESERVES, BREAD, PUDDINGS, 
PICKLES, &c. &c. 



Puff Paste.— [No. 1.) 

To a pound and a quarter of sifted flour rub gently in with 
the hand half a pound of fresh butter; mix up with half a pint 
of spring water ; knead it well, and set it by for a quarter of 
an hour; then roll it out thin, lay on it, in small pieces, three 
quarters of a pound more of butter, throw on it a little flour, 
double it up in folds, and roll it out thin three times, and set 
it by for an hour in a cold place. 

Paste for Meat or Savoury Pies. — (No. 2.) 

Sift two pounds of fine flour to one and a half of good salt 
butter, break it into small pieces, and wash it well in cold 
water; rub gently together the butter and flour, and mix it up 
with the yelk of three eggs, beat together with a spoon; and 
nearly a pint of spring-water; roll it out, and double it in 
folds tliree times, and it is ready. 

Tart Paste for Family Pies. — (No. 3.) 

Rub in with the hand half a pound of butter into one pound 
and a quarter of flour, mix it with half a pint of water, and 
knead it well. 

Sweet, or short and crisped Tart Paste. — (No. 4.) 

To one pound and a quarter of fine flour add ten ounces at 
fresh butter, the yelks of two eggs beat, and three ounces of 
sifted loaf sugar; mix up together with half a pint of new 
milk, and knead it well. See No. 3p. 

N,B. This crust is frequently iced. 



PASTRY, SlC. 361 

Raised Pies. — (No. 5.) 

Put two pomids and a half of flour on the pasteboard ; and 
put on the fire, in a saucepan, three quarters of a pint of 
water, and half a pound of good lard ; when the water boils, 
make a hole in the middle of the flour, pour in the water and 
lard by degrees, gently mixing- the flour with it with a spoon ; 
and when it is well mixed, then knead it with your hands till 
it becomes stiff": dredge a little flour to prevent its sticking to 
the board, or you cannot make it look smooth : do not roll it 
with the rolling-pin, but roll it with your hands, about the 
thickness of a quart pot ; cut it into six pieces, leaving a little 
for the covers ; put one hand in the middle, and keep the 
other close oh the outside till you have worked it either in an 
oval or a round shape : have your meat ready cut, and sea- 
soned with pepper and salt : if pork, cut in small slices ; the 
griskin is the best for pasties : if you use mutton, cut it in 
very neat cutlets, and put them in the pies as you make them; 
roll out the covers with the rolling-pin just the size of the pie, 
wet it round the edge, put it on the pie, and press it together 
with your thumb and finger, and then cut it all round with a 
pair of scissors quite even, and pinch them inside and out, 
and bake them an hour and a half. 

Paste for boiled Puddings. — (No. 6.) 

Pick and chop very fine half a pound of beef suet, add to it 
one pound and a quarter of flour, and a little salt : mix it with 
half a pint of milk or water, and beat it well with the rolling- 
pin, to incorporate the suet with the flour. 

Paste for stringing' Tartlets^ <^'C. — (No. 7.) 

Mix with your hands a quarter of a pound of flour, an 
ounce of fresh butter, and a little cold water; rub it well 
between the board and your hand till it begins to string ; cut 
it into small pieces, roll it out, and draw it into fine strings, 
lay them across your tartlets in any device you please, and 
bake them immediately. 

Paste for Croquants or Cut Pastry — (No. 8.) 

To half a pound of fine flour put a quarter of a pound of 
sifted loaf sugar; mix it well together with yelks of eggs till 
of a good stiffness. 

11 



362 PASTRY, &C. 

Venison Pasty. — (No. 9.) 

Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, that has not 
hung too long-; bone them, trim off all the skin, and cut it into 
pieces two inches square, and put them into a stew-pan, with 
three gills of Port wine, two onions, or a few eschalots 
sliced; some pepper, salt, three blades of mace, about a 
dozen allspice, and enough veal broth to cover it ; put it over 
a slow fire, and let it stew till three parts done ; put the trim- 
mings into another saucepan, cover it with water, and set it 
on a fire. Take out the pieces you intend for the pasty, and 
put them into a deep dish with a little of their liquor, and set 
it by to cool ; then add the remainder of the liquor to the 
bones and trimmings, and boil it till the pasty is ready; then 
cover the pasty with paste made like No. 5 ; ornament the 
top, and bake it for two hours in a slow oven ; and before it 
is sent to table, pour in a sauce made with the gravy the 
venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed free from fat ; 
some pepper, salt, half a gill of Port, the juice of half a 
lemon, and a little flour and butter to thicken it. 

Mutton or Veal Pie.— {No. 10.) 

Cut into chops, and trim neatly, and cut away the greatest 
part of the fat of a loin, or best end of a neck of muiton (the 
fbnner the best), season them, and lay them in a pie dish, 
with a little water and half a gill of mushroom catchup 
(chopped onion and potatoes, if approved); cover it with 
paste (No. 2), bake it two hours ; when done, lift up the crust 
from the dish with a knife, pour out all the gravy, let it stand, 
and skim it clean; add, if wanted, some more seasoning; 
make it boil, and pour it into the pie. 

Veal pie may be made of the brisket part of the breast; but 
must be parb<jiled first. 

//arePie.— (No. 11.) 

Take the hare skinned and washed, cut it into pieces, and 
parboil it for two minutes to cleanse it ; wash it well, and put 
it in a stew-pot with six eschalots chopped, a gill of Port 
wine, a small quantity of thyme, savoury, sweet marjoram, 
and parsley, tied in a bunch, four cloves, and half a dozen 
allspice ; cover it with veal broth, and stew it till half done ; 
pick out the prime pieces, such as the back, legs, &c. (leaving 
the remainder to stew till the goodness is quite extracted) ; 
take the parts preserved, and fill them into a dish with some 
water, and cover it with paste as No. 2; bake it an hour; 



PASTRY, &C. 363 

Strain the gravy from the trimmings, tliicken it a little, and 
throw in half a gill of Port, the juice of half a lemon, and 
pour it into the pie boiling hot ; line the bottom of the dish 
with Hare stuffing (No. 379), or make it into forcemeat 
balls. 

Pies of game and wild fowl are made in like manner ; and 
as the following receipt for Pigeon pie. 

Savoury Pies, Pasties, and Patties. — (No. 12.) 

The piquance of pies may be regulated ad libitum, by 
sprinkhng the articles with zest (No. 255), curry powder No. 
455, and see Nos. 457 and 459), or by covering the bottom of 
the dish with any of the forcemeats enumerated in Nos. 373 
to 385, and making it into balls ; lay one ring of these, and 
another of hard-boiled eggs cut in halves, round the top of 
the pie ; and instead of putting in water, put strong gravy 
After the pies are baked, pour in through a funnel any of the 
various gravies, sauces, &c. : truffles, mushrooms, wine, 
spices, pickles, &c. are also added. See also Nos. 396* 
to 402. 

Mem. These are dishes contrived rather to excite appetite 
than to satisfy it. Putting meat or poultry into a pie is cer- 
tainly the very worst way of cooking it ; it is often baked to 
rags ; and very rarely indeed does a savoury pie come to 
table that deserves to be introdiiced to the stomach. 

Pigeon or Lark Pie. — (No. 13.) 

Truss half a dozen fine large pigeons as for stewing, sea- 
son them with pepper and salt ; lay at the bottom of the dish 
a rump-steak of about a pound weight, cut into pieces and 
trimmed neatly, seasoned, and beat out with a chopper : on 
it lay the pigeons, the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a 
gill of broth or water, and over these a layer of steaks ; wet 
the edge of the dish, and cover it over with puff paste (No. 1), 
or the paste as directed for seasoned pies (No. 2) ; wash it 
over with yelk of egg, and ornament it with leaves of paste 
and the feet of the pigeons ; bake it an hour and a half in a 
moderate-heated oven: before it is sent to table make an 
aperture in the top, and pour in some good gravy quite hot. 

GiUet Pie.— (No. 14.) 

Clean well, and half stew two or three sets of goose gib- 
lets : cut the legs in two, the wing and neck into three, and 
the gizzard into foiu* pieces ; preserve the liquor, and set the 



364 PASTRY, Slc. 

giblets by till cold, otherwise the heat of the giblets will spoil 
the paste you cover the pie with : then season the whole with 
black pepper ;^nd salt, and put thejn into a deep dish ; cover 
it with paste as directed in No. 2, rub it over with yelk of 
egg, ornament and bake it an hour and a half in a moderate 
oven : in the meantime take the liquor the giblets were 
stewed in, skim it free from fat, put it over a fire in a clean 
stew-pan, thicken it a little with flour and butter, or flour and 
water, season it with pepper and salt, and the juice of half a 
lemon ; add a few drops of browning, strain it through a fine 
sieve, and when you take the pie from the oven, pour some 
of this into it through a funnel. Some lay in the bottom of 
the dish a moderately thick rump-steak : if you have any cold 
game or poultry, cut it in pieces, and add it to the above. 

Rump-Steak Pie.— (No. 15.) 

Cut three pounds of rump-steak (that has been kept till 
tender) into pieces half as big as your hand, trim off" all the 
skin, sinews, and every part Vv^hich has not indisputable pre- 
tensions to be eaten, and beat them with a chopper : chop 
very fine half a dozen eschalots, and add them to half an 
ounce of pepper and salt mixed ; strew some of the mixture 
at the bottom of tlie dish, then a layer of steak, then some 
more of the mixture, and so on till the dish is full ; add half 
a gill of mushroom catchup, aiifl the same quantity of gravy, 
or red wine ; cover it as in the preceding receipt, and bake 
it two hours. 

N.B. Large oysters, parboiled, bearded, and laid alter- 
nately with the steaks, their liquor reduced and substituted 
instead of the catchup and wine, will be a variety. 

Chicken Pie. — (No. 16.) 

Parboil, and then cut up neatly two young chickens ; dry 
them ; set them over a slow fire for a few minutes ; have 
read}' some veal stuffing or forcemeat (No. 374 or No. 375), 
lay it at the bottom of the dish, and place in the chickens 
upon it, and with it some pieces of dressed ham ; cover it 
w'ith paste (No. 1). Bake it from an hour and a half to two 
hours; when sent to table, add some good gravy, well 
seasoned, and not too thick. 

Duck pie is made in like manner, only substituting the 
duck stuffing (No. 378), instead of the veal. 

N.B. The above may be put into a raised French crust 
(see No. 18) and baked ; w^hen done, take off the top, and 
put a ragout of sweetbread to the chicken. 



PASTRY, &C. 365 

Rabbit Pie.— {No, 17.) 

Made in the same way ; but make a forcemeat to cover 
the bottom of the dish, by pounding- a quarter of a pound 
of boiled bacon with the lirers of the rabbits ; some pepper 
and salt, some pounded mace, some chopped parsley, and an 
eschalot, thoroughly beaten tog-ether ; and you may lay some 
thin slices of ready-dressed ham or bacon on the top of your 
rabbits. " This pie will ask two hours baking," says Mrs. 
Mary TiUinghast, in page 29 of her 12mo. vol. of rare re- 
ceipts, 1678. 

Raised French Pie. — (No. 18.) 

Make about two pounds of flour into a paste, as directed 
(^No. 5) ; knead it well, and into the shape of a ball; press 
your thumb into the centre, and work it by degrees nito any 
shape (oval or round is the most general), till about five 
inches high ; put it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with coarse 
flour or bran ; roll out a covering for it about the same thick- 
ness as the sides ; cement its sides with the yelk of egg ; 
cut the edges quite even, and pinch it round with the finger 
and thumb"^ yelk of egg it over with a paste-brush, and orna- 
ment it in any way fancy may direct, Avith the same kind of 
paste. Bake it of a fine brown colour, in a slow oven ; and 
when done, cut out the top, remove the flour or bran, brush 
it quite clean, and fill it up with a fricassee of chicken, rab- 
bit, or any other ejitr^c most convenient. Send it to table 
with a napkin under. 

Raised Ham Pie.— {No. 19.) 

Soak a small ham four or five hours ; wash and scrape it 
well ; cut off the knuckle, and boil it for half an hour ; then 
take it up and trim, it very neatly; take off" the rind and put 
it into an oval stew-pan, with a pint of Madeira or sherry, 
and enough veal stock to cover it. Let it stew for tv/o hours, 
or till three parts done ; take it out and set it in a cold place ; 
then raise a crust as in the foregoing receipt, large enough 
to receive it ; put in the ham, and round it the veal force- 
meat ; cover and ornament ; it will take about an hour and 
a half to bake in a slow oven : when done, take off the 
cover, glaze the top, and pour round the following sauce, 
viz. take the liquor the ham was stewed in ; skim it free from 
fat ; thicken with a little flour and butter mixed together ; a 
few drops of browning, and some Cayeone pepper, 

H h 2 



366 TASTE Sr, &LC. 

P.S. The above is, I think, a good way of dressing a small 
ham, and has a good effect cold for a supper. 

Feal and Ham Pte.— (No. 20.) 

Take two pounds of veal cutlet, cut them in middling- 
sized pieces, season Mith pepper and a very little salt ; like- 
wise one of raw or dressed ham cut in slices, lay it alter- 
nately in the dish, and put some forced or sausage meat (No. 
374, or No. 375) at the top, with some stewed button mush- 
rooms, and the yelks of three eggs boiled hard, and a gill of 
water ; then proceed as with rump-steak pie. 

N.B. The best end of a neck is the fine part for a pie, cut 
into chops, and the chine bone taken away. 

Raised Pork Pie.— (No. 21.) 

Make a raised crust, of a good size, with paste (as di- 
rected in No. 5), about four inches high ; take the rind and 
chine bone from a loin of pork, cut it into chops, beat them 
with a chopper, season them with pepper and salt, and fill 
your pie ; put on the top and close it, and pinch it round the 
edge ; rub it over with yelk of egg, and bake it two hours with 
a paper over it, to prevent the crust from burning. When 
done, pour in some good gravy, with a little ready-mixed 
mustard (if approved). 

N.B. As the above is generally eaten cold, it is an ex- 
cellent repast for a journey, and will keep for several days. 

Eel Pie.— {No. 22.) 

Take eels about half a pound each ; skin, wash, and trim 
off the fin with a pair of scissors, cut them into pieces three 
inches long, season them with pepper and salt, and fill your 
dish, leaving out the heads and tails. Add a gill of water or 
veal broth, cover it with paste (No. 2), rub it over with a 
paste-brush dipped in j^^elk of egg, ornament it with some of 
the same paste, bake it an hour ; and when done, make a 
hole in the centre, and pour in the following sauce through 
a funnel : the trimmings boiled in half a pint of veal stock, 
seasoned with pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon- 
juice, and thickened with flour ?ind water, strained through 
a fine sieve : add it boiling hot. 

Raised Lamb Pies. — (No. 23.) 
Bone a loin of lamb, cut into cutlets, trim them very 



PASTRY, &LC. 367 

nicely, and lay them in the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, 
with an omice of butter, a tea-spoonfiil of lemon-jmce, and 
some pepper and salt : put them over a fire, and turn them 
and put them to cool; then raise four or five small pies with 
paste (as No. 6), about the size of a tea-cup ; put some veal 
forcemeat at the bottom, and the cutlets upon it ; roll out the 
too an eighth of an inch thick, close and pinch the edges, 
bake them half an hour, and when done take off the top, and 
pour in some good brown sauce. 

Beef-Steak Pudding.^{No. 24.) 

Get rump-steaks, not too thick, beat them with a chopper, 
cut them into pieces about half the size of your hand, and 
trim off all the skin, sinews, &c. ; nave ready an onion peeled 
and chopped fine, likewise some potatoes peeled and cut into 
slices a quarter of an inch thick ; rub the inside of a basin or 
an oval plain mould with butter, sheet it with paste as di- 
rected for boiled puddings (No. 7) ; season the steaks with 
pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg ; put in a layer of 
steak, then another of potatoes, and so on till it is full, occa- 
sionally throwing in part of the chopped onion ; add to it half 
a gill of mushroom catchup, a table-spoonful of lemon- 
pickle, and half a gill of water or veal broth ; roll out a top, 
and close it well to nrevent the water getting in ; rinse a 
clean cloth in hot water, sprinkle a little flour over it, and 
tie up the pudding ; have ready a large pot of water boiling, 
put it in, and boil it two hours and a half; take it up, re- 
move the cloth, turn it downwards in a deep dish, and when 
wanted take away the basin or mould. 

Vol au Fsnt.—i'So. 25.) 

Roll off tart paste (No. 3) till about the eighth of an inch 
thick : then, with a tin cutter made for that purpose (about 
the size of the bottom of the dish you intend sending to 
table), cut out the shape, and lay it on a baking-plate with 
paper ; rub it over with yelk of egg ; roll out good puff paste 
(No. 1) an inch thick, stamp it with the same cutter, and lay 
it on the tart paste ; then take a cutter two sizes smaller, and 
press it in the centre nearly through the puff paste ; rub the 
top with yelk of egg, and bake it in a quick oven about twenty 
minutes, of a light brown colour : when done, take out the 
paste inside the centre mark, preserving the top, put it on a 
dish in a warm place, and when wanted, fill it with a white 
fricassee of chicken, rabbit, ragout of sweetbread, or any 
other entree you wish. 



368 pASTRir, &,c. 

Oyster Patties.— {No. 26.) 

Roll out pufF paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it into 
squares with a knife, sheet eight or ten patty pans, put upon 
each a bit of bread the size of half a walnut; roll out 
another layer of paste of the same thickness, cut it as above, 
wet the edg-e of the bottom paste, and put on the top, pare 
them round to the pan, and notch them about a dozen times 
with the back of the knife, rub them lightly with yelk of 
egg, bake them in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour : 
when done, take a thin slice off the top, then, with a small 
knife or spoon, take out the bread and the inside paste, 
leaving the outside quite entire ; then parboil two dozen of 
large oysters, strain them from their liquor, wash, beard, and 
cut them into four, put them into a stew-pan with an ounce 
of butter rolled in flour, half a gill of good cream, a little 
grated lemon-peel, the oyster liquor, free from sediment, 
reduced by boiling to one half, some Cayenne pepper, salt, 
and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice; stir it over a fire five 
minutes, and fill the patties. 

Lobster Patties. — (No. 27.) 

Prepare the patties as in the last receipt. Take a hen 
lobster already boiled; pick the meat from the tail and 
claws, and chop it fine ; put it into a stew-pan, with a little 
of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till quite smooth, 
an ounce of fresh butter, half a gill of cream, and half a 
gill of veal consomme, Cayenne pepper, and salt, a tea- 
spoonful of essence of anchovy, the same of lemon-juice, 
and a table-spoonful of flour and water: stew it five minutes. 

Feal and Ham Patties. — (No. 38.) 

Chop about six ounces of ready-dressed lean veal, and 
three ounces of ham very small ; put it into a stew-pan with 
an ounce of butter rolled into flour, half a gill of cream ; 
half a gill of veal stock ; a little grated nutmeg and lemon- 
peel, some Cayenne pepper and salt, a spoonful of essence 
of ham and lemon-juice, and stir it over the fire some time, 
taking care it does not burn. 

Chicken and Ham. Patties. — (No. 29.) 

Use the white meat from the breast of chickens or fowls, 
and proceed as in the last receipt. 



PASTKY, &C. 369 

Ripe Fruit Tarts.— {^o. 30.) 

Gooseberries, damsons, morrello cherries, currants mixed 
with raspberries, plums, green gages, white phmis, &c. should 
be quite fresh picked, and washed: lay them m the dish 
with the centre highest, and about a quarter of a pound ot 
moist or loaf sugar pounded to a quart of fruit (but it quite 
ripe tliey will not require so much) ; add a little water : rul> 
the edges of the dish with yelk of egg-, cover it with tart 
paste (No. 4), about half an inch thick; press your thumb 
round the rim, and close it well ; pare it round with a knile ; 
make a hole in the sides below the rim ; bake it in a mode- 
rate-heated oven ; and ten minutes before it is done, take it 
out and ice it, and return it to the oven to dry. 

Icing for Fruit Tarts, Puffs, or Pastry.— {No. SI.") 

Beat up in a half-pint mug the white of two eggs to a 
solid froth ; lay some on the middle of the pie with a paste- 
brush; sift over plenty of pounded sugar, and press it down 
with the h;ind; wash out the brush, and splash by degrees 
with water tdl the sugar is dissolved, and put it in the oven 
for ten minutes, and serve it up cold. 

Apple Pie.— (No. 32.) 

Take eight russetings, or lemon pippin apples ; pare, core, 
and cut not smaller than quarters ; place them as close as 
possible together into a pie-dish, with four cloves ; rub toge- 
ther in a mortiir some lemon-peel, with four ounces of good 
moist sugar, and, if agreeable, add some quince jam; cover 
it with puff paste ; bake it an hour and a quarter. (Generally 
eaten w^arm.) 

Apple Tart creamed. — (No. 33.) 

Use gre-n codlings, in preference to any other apple, 
and proceed as in tlie last receipt. When the pie is done, 
cut out the whole of the centre, leaving the edges; when 
cold, pour on the apple some rich boiled custard, and place 
round it some small leaves of puff paste of a light colour. 



Tartlets, such as are made at the Pastry Cooks.— {So. 34.) 

Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) of a quarter of an inch thick, 

cut it into pieces, and sheet pans about the size of a crown 

piece, pare them round with a knife, and put a small quantity 

of apricot, damson, raspberry, strawberry, apple, marmalade. 



370 PASTRY, 6lC. 

or any Other kind of jam (No. 92), in the centre ; take paste 
(No. 7), and string them crossways ; bake them from six to 
ten minutes m a quick oven : they should be of a very liffht 
brown colour. ^ 

French Tart of preserved Fruit. — (No. 35.) 

Cover a flat dish, or tourte pan, with tart paste (No. 4) 
about an eighth of an inch thick; roll out puff paste (No. 1), 
half an inch thick, and cut it out in strips an inch wide ; wet 
the tart paste, and lay it neatly round the pan by way of a rim ; 
fill the centre with jam or marmalade of any kind, ornament 
it with small leaves of puff paste, bake it half an hour, and 
send it to table cold. 

N.B. The above may be filled before the puff paste is laid 
on, neatly strung with paste, as No. 7, and the rim put over 
after. ^ 

06s.— The most general way of sending tourtes to table, 
IS with a croquante of paste (No. 86), or a caramel of spun 
sugar (No. 85), put over after it is baked. 

Small Puffs of preserved Fruit.— {No. 36.) 

Roll out, a quarter of an inch thick, good puff paste (No. 
1), and cut it into pieces four inches square ; lay a small 
quantity of any kind of jam on each, double them over, and 
cut them into square, triangle, or, with a tin cutter, half 
moons; lay them with paper on a baking-plate; ice them 
(as at No. 31), bake them about twenty minutes, taking care 
not to colour the icing. 

Cranberry Tart. — (No. 37.) 

Take Swedish, American, or Russian cranberries, pick 
and wash them in several waters, put them into a dish, with 
the juice of half a lemon, a quarter of a pound of moist or 
pounded loaf sugar, to a quart of cranberries. Cover it 
with puff (No. 1) or tart paste (No. 4), and bake it three 
quarters of an hour ; if tart paste is used, draw it from the 
oven five minutes before it is done, and ice it as No. 31, 
return it to the oven, and send it to table cold. 

Mince Pies.— {No. 38.) 

Sheet with tart paste (No. 4), half a dozen of tin pans of 
any size you please ; fill them with mince meat (No. 39), 
and cover with puff paste, a quarter of an inch thick ; trim 



PASTRY, &C 371 

round the edges with a knife, make an aperture at the top 
with a fork, bake them in a moderate-heated oven, and send 
them to table hot, first removing the tin. 
N.B. Some throw a little sifted loaf sugar over. 

Mince Meat— {No. 39.) 

Two pounds of beef suet, picked and chopped fine ; two 
pounds of apple, pared, cored, and minced ; three pounds of 
currants, washed and picked ; one pound of raisins, stoned 
and chopped fine ; one pound of good moist sugar ; half 
a pound of citron, cut into thin slices ; one pound of candied 
lemon and orange-peel, cut as ditto ; two pounds of ready- 
dressed roast beef, free from skin and gristle, and chopped 
fine ; two nutmegs, grated ; one ounce of salt, one of groimd 
ginger, half an ounce of coriander seeds, half an ounce of 
allspice, half an ounce of cloves, all ground fine ; the juice 
of six lemons, and their rinds grated ; half a pint of brandy, 
and a pint of sweet wine. Mix the suet, apples, currants, ^ 
meat-plums, and sweetmeats, well together in a large pan, 
and strew in the spice by degrees ; mix the sugar, lemon- 
juice, wine, and brandy, and pour it to the other mgre- 
dients, and stir it well together ; set it by in close-covered 
pans in a cold place: when wanted, stir it up from the 
bottom, and add half a glass of brandy to the quantity you 
require. 

N.B. The same weight of tripe is frequently substituted 
for the meat, and sometimes the yelks of eggs boiled hard. 

Obs.— The lean side of a buttock, thoroughly roasted, is 
generally chosen for mince meat. 

Cheesecakes. — (No. 40.) 

Put two quarts of new milk into a stew-pan, set it near 
the fire, and stir in two table-spoonfuls of rennet : let it 
stand till it is set (this will take about an hour) ; break it 
well with your hand, and let it remain half an hour longer ; 
then pour off the whey, and put the curd into a colander to 
drain ; when quite dry, put it in a mortar, and pound it quite 
smooth ; then add four ounces of sugar, povmded and sifted, 
and three ounces of fresh butter ; oil it first by putting it m 
a little potting-pot, and setting it near the fire ; stir it all well 
together : beat the yelks of four eggs in a basin, with a little 
nutmeg grated, lemon-peel, and a glass of brandy ; add this 
to the curd, with two ounces of currants, washed and picked; 
stir it all well together ; have your tins ready lined with puff 
paste (No. l), about a quarter of an iiiCh thick, notch them 



372 PASTRY, &C. 

all round the edg«, and fill each with the curd. Bake them 
twenty mmutes. 

When you have company, and want a variety, you can 
make a mould of curd and cream, by putting the curd in a 
mould full of holes, instead of the colander: let it stand for 
six hours, then turn it out very carefully on a dish, and pour 
over it half a pint of good cream sweetened with loaf sugar, 
and a little nutmeg. What there is left, if set in a cool place, 
will make excellent cheesecakes the next day. 

Lemon Cheesecakes. — (No. 41.) 

Grate the rind of three, and take the juice of two lemons, 
and mix them with three sponge biscuits, six ounces of fresh 
butter, four ounces of sifted sugar, a little grated nutmeg 
and pounded cinnamon, half a gill of cream, and three eggs 
well beaten ; work them with the hand, and fill the pans, 
which must be sheeted as in the last receipt with puff paste, 
and lay two or three slices of candied lemon-peel, cut thin, 
upon the top. 

Orange Cheesecakes. — (No. 42.) 

To be made in the same way, omitting the lemons, and 
using oranges instead. 

Almond Cheesecakes. — (No. 43.) 

Blanch six ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter 
almonds ; let them lie half an hour in a drying stove, or 
before the fire ; pound them very fine in a mortar, with two 
table-spoonfuls of rose or orange-flower water, to prevent 
them from oiling ; set into a stew-pan half a pound of fresh 
butter ; set it in a warm place, and cream it very smooth with 
the hand, and add it to the almonds, with six ounces of sifted 
loaf sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, some good cream, and 
four eggs ; rub all well together with the pestle ; cover a patty- 
pan with puff paste ; fill in the mixture ; ornament it with 
slices of candied lemon-peel and almonds split, and bake it 
half an hour in a brisk oven. 

Mille Feuilles, or a Pyramid of Paste. — (No. 44.) 

Roll out puff paste (No. 1,) half an inch thick; cut out 
with a cutter made for the purpose, in the shape of an oval, 
octagon, square, diamond, or any other form, (and to be got 
of most tinmen,) observing to let the first piece be as largo 



PASTRY, &C. 373 

as the bottom of the dish you intend sending it to table on : 
the second piece a size smaller, and so on in proportion, till 
the last is about the size of a shilling- ; lay them with paper 
on a baking-plate, yelk of egg the top, and bake them of a 
light brown colour : take them from the paper, and when 
cold put the largest size in the dish, then a layer of apricot 
jam ; then the next size, a layer of raspberry jam, and so on, 
varying the jam between each layer of paste to the top, on 
which place a bunch of dried fruit, and spin a caramel (No. 
85) of sugar over it. 

Brunswick Tourte. — (No. 45.) 

Make a crust as for vol au vent (No. 25) ; pare and core 
with a scoop eight or ten golden pippins ; put them into 
a stew-pan, with a gill of sweet wine, and four ounces 
of sifted loaf sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, a small stick of 
cinnamon, and a blade of mace ; stew them over a slow 
fire till the apples are tender ; set them by : when cold, 
place them in the paste, and pour round them some good 
custard (No. 53). 

Blancmange. — (No. 46.) 

Boil for a few minutes a pint and a half of new milk, with 
an ounce of picked isinglass (if in summer, one ounce and 
a quarter), the rind of half a lemon, peeled very thin, a 
little cinnamon, and a blade of mace, and two and a half 
ounces of lump sugar : blanch and pound eight or ten bitter, 
and half an ounce of sweet almonds very fine, with a 
spoonful of rose water, and mix them with the milk ; 
strain it through a lawn sieve or napkin into a basin, witli 
half a pint of good cream. Let it stand half an hour; 
pour it. into another basin, leaving the sediment at the 
bottom, and when nearly cold fill it into moulds : when 
wanted, put your finger round the mould ; pull out the blanc- 
mange ; set it in the centre of a dish, and garnish with slices 
of orange. 

N.B. About half a gill of noyeau may be substituted for 
the almonds. 

Orange Jelly. — (No. 47 

Boil in a pint of water one ounce and a quarter of picked 
isinglass, the rind of an orange cut thin, a stick of cin- 
namon, a few corianders, and three ounces of loaf-sugar, 
till the isinglass is dissolved; then squeeze two Seville 

li 



374 PASTRY, 6lC. 

orang-es or lemons, and enough China oranges to make 
a pint of juice : mix all together, and strain it through a 
tamis or lawn sieve into a basin ; set it in a cold place for half 
an hour; pour it into another basin free from sediment ; and 
when it begins to congeal, fill your mould : when wanted, 
dip the mould into lukewarm water; turn it out on a dish, 
and garnish with orange or lemon cut in slices, and placed 
romid. 

N.B. A few grains of saffron put in the water will add 
much to its appearance. 

Italian Cream. — (No. 48.) 

Rub on a lump of sugar the rind of a lemon, and scrape it 
off with a knife into a deep dish or china bowl, and add half 
a gill of brandy, two ounces and a half of sifted sugar, the 
juice of a lemon, and a pint of double cream, and beat it up 
well with a clean whisk ; in the meantime, boil an ounce of 
isinglass in a gill of water till quite dissolved ; strain it to 
the other ingredients ; beat it some time, and fill your 
mould ; and when cold and set well, dish it as in the foregoing 
receipt. 

N.B. The above may be flavoured with any kind of 
liqueur, raspberry, strawberry, or other fruits, coloured with 
prepared cochineal, and named to correspond with the 
flavour given. 

Tri/le.-r-(^o. 49.) 

Mix in a large bowl a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, 
the juice of a lemon, some of the peel grated fine, half a 
gill of brandy, and ditto of liisbon or sweet wine, and a 
pint and a half of good cream ; whisk the whole well, and 
take off the froth as it rises with a skimmer, and put it on a 
sieve ; continue to whisk it till you have enough of the whip ; 
set it in a cold place to drain three or four hours ; then lay in 
a deep dish six or eight sponge biscuits, a quarter of a pound 
of ratafia, two ounces of Jordan almonds blanched and split, 
some grated nutmeg and lemon-peel, currant jelly and rasp- 
berry jam, half a pint of sweet wine, and a little brandy; 
when the cakes have absorbed the liquor, pour over about a 
pint of custard, made rather thicker than for apple pie ; and, 
when wanted, lay on lightly plenty of the whip, and throv 
over a few nonpareil comfits* 



PASTRr, &LC. 375 

Whip Syllabub.— {No. 50.J 

Make a whip as in the last receipt; mix with a pint of 
cream, half a pint of sweet wine, a glass of brandy, the juice 
of a lemon, grated nutmeg, six ounces of sifted loaf sugar: 
nearly fill the custard-glasses with the mixture, and lay on 
with a spoon some of the whip. 

Chantilly Basket. — (No. 51.) 

Dip into sugar boiled to a caramel (See No. 85) small 
ratafias, stick them on a dish in what form you please, then 
take ratafias one size larger, and having dipped them into 
the sugar, build them together till about four or five inches 
high ; make a rim of York drops or drageas of gum paste, 
likewise a handful of sugar or ratafia, and set it over the 
basket ; line the inside with wafer-paper, and a short time 
before it is wanted, fill it with a mixture the same as for trifle, 
and upon that plenty of good whip. 

Baked Custard. — (No. 52.) 

Boil in a pint of milk, a few coriander seeds, a little cinna- 
mon and lemon-peel ; sweeten with four ounces of loaf sugar, 
and mix with it a pint of cold milk ; bent well eight eggs for 
ten minutes, and add the other ingredients ; pour it from one 
pan into another six or eight times, strain it through a sieve, 
and let it stand some time ; skim off the froth from the top, fill 
it in earthen cups, and bake them immediately in a hot oven, 
give them a good colour ; about ten minutes will do them. 

Boiled Custard. — (No. 53.) 

Boil in a pint of milk, five minutes, lemon-peel, corianders, 
and cinnamon, a small quantity of each, half a dozen of bitter 
almonds, blanched and pounded, and four ounces of loaf 
sugar : mix it with a pint of cream, the yelks of ten eggs, 
and the whites of six, well beaten ; pass it through a hair- 
sieve, stir it with a whisk over a slow fire till it begins to 
thicken, remove it from the fire, and continue to stir it till 
nearly cold ; add two table-spoonfuls of brandy, fill the cups 
or glasses, and grate nutmeg over. 

Almond Custards. — (No. 54.) 

Blanch and pound fine, with half a gill of rose water, six 
ounces of sweet, and half an ounce of bitter almonds ; boil a 
pint of milk as No. 52 ; sweeten it with two ounces and a 



376 PASTRY, &C. 

half of sugar ; rub the almonds through a fine sieve, with a 
pint of cream ; strain the milk to the yelks of eight eggs, and 
the whites of three well-beaten ; stir it over a fire till it is of 
a good thickness ; take it off the fire, and stir it till nearly 
cold, to prevent its curdling. 

N.B. The above may be baked in cups, or in a dish, with 
a rim of puif paste put round. 

Twelfth Ca^e.— (No. 55.) 

Two pounds of sifted flour, two pounds of sifted loaf sugar, 
two pounds of butter, eighteen eggs, four pounds of currants, 
one half poimd of almonds blanched and chopped, one half 
pound of citron, one pound of candied orange and lemon- 
peel cut into thin slices, a large nutmeg grated, half an ounce 
of ground allspice ; ground cinnamon, mace, ginger, and 
corianders, a quarter of an ounce of each, and a gill of brandy. 

Put the butter into a stew-pan, in a warm place, and work 
it into a smooth cream with the hand, and mix it with the 
sugar and spice in a pan (or on your paste board) for some 
time ; then break in the eggs by degrees, and beat it at least 
twenty minutes ; stir in the brandy, and then the flour, and 
work it a little ; add the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, and 
mix all together lightly ; have ready a hoop cased with paper, 
on a baking-plate ; put in the mixture, smooth it on the top 
with your hand, dipped in milk ; put the plate on another, 
with sawdust between, to prevent the bottom from colouring 
too much : bake it in a slow oven* four hours or more, and 
when nearly cold, ice it with No. 84. 

This mixture would make a handsome cake, full twelve or 
fourteen inches over. 

* The goodness of a cake or biscuit depends much on its being well baked ; great 
attention should by paid to the difterent degrees of heat of the oven : be sure to have 
it of a good sound heat at first, vi^hen, after its beins; well cleaned out, may be baked 
such articles as rerpiire a hot oven, after which such as are directed to be baked in 
a well-heated or moderate oven ; and, lastly, those in a slow soaking or cool one. 
With a little care the above degrees may soon be known. 

In making butter cakes, such as Nos. 55, 57, or 61, too much attention cannot be 
paid to have the butter well creamed ; for should it be made too warm, it would 
cause the mixture to be the same, and when put to bake, the fruit, sweetmeats, &c. 
would, in that event, fall to the bottom. 

Yest cakes should be well proved before put into the oven, as they will prove 
but little afterward. 

In making biscuits and cakes where butter is not used, the ditTereni utensils should 
be kept free from all kinds of grease, or it is ne.xt to impossible to have good ones. 

In buttering the insides of cake-moulds, the butler should be nicely clarified, and 
when nearly cold, laid on guite smooth, with a small brush kept for that purpose. 

Sugar and flour should be quite dry, and a drum sieve is recommended for the 
BUgar. The old way of beating tlie yelks and whites of eggs separate (except in 
very few cases), is not only useless, but a waste of time. They should be well 
incorporated with the other ingredients, and, in some instances, lliey cannot be bealeu 
too much. 



PASTRY, &C. 377 

• 06s.— If made in cold M'eather, the eggs should be broken 
into a pan, and set into another filled with hot water; like- 
wise the fruit, sweetmeats, and almonds, laid in a warm place, 
otherwise it may chill the butter, and cause the cake to be 
heavy. 

Bride, or Wedding Cake. — (No. 56.) 

The only difference usually made in these cakes is, the 
addition of one pound of raisins, stoned and mixed with the 
other fruit. 

Plain Pound Cake.— {No. 57.) 

Cream, as in No. 55, one pound of butter, and work it well 
together with one pound of sifted sugar till quite smooth ; 
beat up nine eggs, and put them by degrees to the butter, and 
beat them for twenty minutes ; mix in lightly one pound of 
flour; put the whole into a hoop, cased with paper, on a baking- 
plate, and bake it about one hour in a moderate oven. 

An ounce of caraway-seeds added to the above, will make 
what is termed a rich seed cake. 

Plum Pound CaA-e.— (No. 58.) 

Make a cake as No. 57, and when you have beaten it, mix in 
lightly half a pound of currants, tv/o ounces of orange, and 
two ounces of candied lemon-peel cut small, and half a nut- 
meg grated. 

Common Seed Cake. — (No. 59.) 

Sift two and a half pounds of flour, with half a pound of 
good Lisbon or loaf sugar, pounded into a pan or bowl ; make 
a cavity in the centre, and pour in half a pint of lukewarm 
milk, and a table-spooniul oi thick yest ; mix the milk f.-vl 
yest with enough flour to make it as thick as cream (this is 
called setting a sponge) ; set it by in a Avarm place for one 
hour ; in the meantime, melt to an oil half a pound of fresh 
butter, and add it to the other ingredients, with one ounce 
of caraway-seeds, and enough of milk to make it of a mid- 
dling stiff"ness ; line a hoop with paper, well rubbed over with 
butter ; put in the mixture ; set it some time to prove in a 
stove, or before the fire, and bake it on a plate about an hour, 
m rather a hot oven ; when done, rub the top over with a 
paste-brush dipped in milk. 

Ji2 



378 " PASTRY, &C. 

Rich Yest Cake.— {No. 60.) 

• 

Set a sponge as in the foregoing- receipt, with the same 
proportions of flour, sugar, milk, and yest : when it has lain 
some time, mix it with three quarters of a pound of butter 
oiled, one pound and a quarter of currants, half a pound of 
candied lemon and orange-peel cut fine, grated nutmeg, 
ground allspice and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of 
each: case a hoop as stated No. 59, bake it in a good-heated 
oven one hour and a half. 

N.B. It may be iced with No. 84, and ornamented as a 
twelfth cake. 

Queen, or Heart Cakes. — (No. 61.) 

One pound of sifted sugar, one pound of butter, eight 
eggs, one pound and a quarter of flour, two ounces of cur- 
rants, and half a nutmeg grated. 

Cream the butter as at No. 55, and mix it well with the 
sugar and spice, then put in half the eggs and beat it ten 
minutes, add the remainder of the eggs, and work it ten 
minutes longer, stir in the flotir lightly, and the currants 
afterward, then take small tin pans of any shape (hearts 
the most usual), rub the inside of each with butter, fill and 
bake them a few minutes in a hot oven, on a sheet of 
matted wire, or on a baking-plate ; when done, remove thern 
as early as possible from the pans. 

Queen's Drops. — (No. 62.) 

Leave out four ounces of flour from the last receipt, and 
add two ounces more of currants, and two omices of candied 
peel cut small ; work it the same as in the last receipt, and 
when ready put the measure into a biscuit-funnel,* and lay 
them out in drops about the size of half a crown, on white 
paper ; bake them in a hot oven, and, when nearly cold, take 
them from the paper. 

Shrewsbury Cakes. — (No. 63.) 

Rub well together one pound of pounded sugar, one pound 
of fresh butter, and one pound and a half of sifted flour, mix 

* Take fine brown Holland, and make a bag in the form of a cone, about five 
inches over at the top. Cut a small hole at the bottom, and lie in a small pipe of a 
tapering form, about two inches long ; and the bore must be large or small, accord- 
ing to ihe size of the biscuits or cakes to be made. When the various mixtures are 
put in, lay the pipe close to the paper, and press it out in rows. 

Sooie use a bullock's bladder for the purpose. 



PASTRY, &:-c. 379 

it into a paste, with half a g'ill of milk or cream, and one 
egg-, let it lie half an hour, roll it out thin, cut it out into 
small cakes with a tin cutter, about three inches over, and 
bake them on a clean baking-plate in a moderate oven. 

Banbury Cakes. — (No. 64.) 

Set a spong-e with two table-spoonfuls of thick vest, a 
g-iil of warm milk, and a pound of flour ; Avhen it has worked 
a little, mix with it half a pound of currants, washed and 
picked, half a pound of candied orange and lemon peel cut 
small, one ounce of spice, such as ground cinnamon, allspice, 
ginger, and grated nutmeg : mix the whole together with 
half a pound of honey; roll out puff paste (No. 1,) a quarter 
of an inch thick, cut it iut:j rounds with a cutter, about four 
inches over, lay on each with a spoon a small quantity of the 
mixtiu'e; close it round with the fingers in the fomi of an 
oval ; place the join underneatii ; press it flat with the hand ; 
sift sugar over it, and bake them on a plate a quarter of an 
hour, in a moderate oven, and of a light colour. 

Bath BuJis.— {No, 65.) 

Rub tog"eth?r with the hand one pound of fine flour, and 
lialf a pound of butter; beat six eg-gs, and add them to the 
flour, &c. with a table-spoonful of g-ood yest; mix them all 
together, with about half a tea-cupful of milk ; set it in a 
v^'^arm place for an hour, then mix in six ounces of sifted 
sugar, and a few caraway seeds ; moifld them into buns with 
a table-spoon, on a clean baking-plate ; throw six or eight 
caraway comfits on each, and bake them in a hot oven 
al)out ten minutes. This quantity should make about 
eighteen. 

Spojige Biscuits. — (No. 66.) 

Break into a roimd-bottomed preserving-pan* nine good- 
sized eggs, with one pound of sifted loaf sugar, and some 
grated lemon-peel ; set the pan over a very slow fire, and 
whisk it till quite warm (but not too hot to set the eggs) ; 
remove the pan from the fire, and whisk it till cold, which 
may be a quarter of an hour ; then stir in the flour lightly with 
a spattle ; previous to which, prepare the sponge frame as 
follows : — Wipe them well o it with a clean cloth, rub the 
<nsides with a brush dipped in butter, which has been cla- 

* A wide-mouthed eartben pan, made quite hot in the oven, or on a fire, will 
« a good substitute..- 



580 PASTRY, &C. 

rified, and sift loaf sugar over ; fill the frames with the mix 
ture; throw pounded sugar over; bake them five minutes ii 
a brisk oven : when done, take them from the frames, and laj 
them on a sieve. 

Savoy Cake, or Sponge Cake in a Mould.— ;No. 67.) 

Take nine egg's, their weight of sugar, and six of flour 
some grated lemon, or a few drops of essence of lemon, anc 
half a gill of orange-flower water, work them as in the las' 
receipt; put in the orange-flower water wlien you take ii 
from the fire ; be very careful the mould is quite dry ; rui) ii 
all over the inside with butter ; put some pounded sugai 
round the mould upon the butter, and shake it well to get ii 
out of the crevices : tie a slip of paper round the mould; fili 
it three parts full with the mixture, and bake it one hour in a 
slack oven ; when done, let it stand for a few minutes, and 
take it from the mould, which may be done by shaking it 
a little. 

Biscuit Drops.— {No. 68.) 

Beat well together in a pan one pound of sifted sugar with 
eight eggs for twenty minutes ; then add a quarter of an 
ounce of caraway seeds, and one pound and a quarter of 
flour: lay wafer-paper on a baking-plate, put the mixture 
into a biscuit-funnel, and drop it out on the paper about the 
size of half a crown ; sift sugar over, and bake them in a 
hot oven. 

Savoy Biscuits. — (No. C9. 

To be made as drop biscuits, omitting the caraways, and 
quarter of a pound of flour: put it into the biscuit-funnel, 
and lay it out about the length and size of your finger, on 
common shop paper ; strew sugar over, and bake them in a 
hot oven ; when cold, wet the backs of the paper with a 
paste-brush and water : when they have lain some time, take 
them carefully off, and place them back to back. 

Italian Macaroons. — (No. 70.) 

Take one pound of Valentia or Jordan almonds, blanched, 
pound them quite fine with the whites of four eggs ; add two 
pounds and a half of sifted loaf sugar, and rub them well 
together with the pestle ; put in by degrees about ten or 
eleven more whites, working them well as you put them in ; 



PASTRY, &LC. 381 

DUt the best criterion to go by in trying their lightness is to 
)ake one or two, and if you find them heavy, put one or two 
nore whites; put the mixture into a biscuit-funnel, and lay 
hem out on wafer-paper, in pieces about the size of a small 
valnut, having ready about two ounces of blanched and dry 
draonds cut into slips, put three or four pieces on each, and 
)ake them on wires, or a baking-plate, in a slow oven. 

06s. — Almonds should be blanched and dried gradually two 
)r three days before they are used, by which means they will 
vork much better, and where large quantities are used, it is 
idvised to grind them in a mill provided for that purpose. 

Ratafia Cakes. — (No. 71.) 

To half a pound of blanched bitter, and half a pound of 
(weet, almonds, put the whites of four eggs ; beat them quite 
ine in a mortar, and stir in two pounds and a quarter of loaf 
Higar, pounded and sifted ; rub them well together with the 
vvhites (by degrees) of nine eggs (try their lightness as in 
he last receipt) ; lay them out from the biscuit-funnel on 
.-artridge-paper, in drops about the size of a shilling, and 
lake them in a middling-heated oven, of a light brown 
?olour, and take them from the papers as soon as cold. 

N.B. A smaller pipe must be used in the funnel than for 
other articles. 

Almond Spmge Cake. — (No. 72.) 

Pound in a mortar one pound of blanched almonds quite 
fine, with the whites of three eggs ; then put in one pound of 
sifted loaf sugar, some grated lemon-peel, and the 3^elks of 
fifteen eggs — work them well together : beat up to a solid 
froth the whites of twelve eggs, and stir them into the other 
ingredients with a quarter of a pound of sifted dry flour : 
prepare a mould as at No. 67; put in the mixture, and bake 
it an hour in a slow oven : take it carefully from the mould, 
and set it on a sieve. 

Ratafia Cake. — (No. 73.) 

To be made as above, omitting a quarter of a pound of 
sweet, and substituting a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds. 

Diet Bread Cake. — (No. 71.) 

Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump 
sugar ; have ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, in a 



382 PASTRY, &C. 

pan ; pour in the sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about 
a quarter of an hour; then stir in two pounds of sifted flour; 
case the inside of square tins with white paper; fill them 
three parts full ; sift a little sugar over, and bake it in a warm 
oven, and while hot remove them from the moulds. 

Orange Gingerbread, — (No. 75.) 

Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it a 
pound and three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied 
orange-peel cut small, three quarters of a pound of moist 
sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of allspice : 
melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of butter ; mix the 
whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours ; roll it 
out with as little flour as possible, about half an inch thick ; 
cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide ; mark them 
in the form of checkers Avith the back of a knife ; put them 
on a baking-plate about a quarter of an inch apart ; rub them 
over with a brush dipped into the yelk of an egg beat up 
with a tea-cupful of milk ; bake it in a cool oven about a 
quarter of an hour : when done, wash them slightly over 
again, divide the pieces with a knife (as in baking they will 
run together). 

Gingerbread jYuts. — \^No. 7C.) 

To two pounds of sifted flour, put two pounds of treacle, 
three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of 
candied orange-peel cut small, one ounce and a half of 
ground ginger, one ounce of ground caraways, and three 
quarters of a pound of butter oiled : mix all well together, 
and set it by some time ; then roll it out in pieces about the 
size of a small walnut ; lay them in rows on a baking-plate ; 
dress them flat with the hand, and bake them in a slow oven 
about ten minutes. 

Plain Buns. — (No. 77.) 

To four pcunds of sifted flour put one pound of good moist 
sugar; make a cavity in the centre, and stir in a gill of good 
yest, a pint of lukewarm milk, with enough of the flour to 
make it the thickness of cream ; cover it over, and let it lie 
two hours ; then melt to an oil (but not hot) one pound of 
butter, stir it into the other ingredients, with enough warm 
milk to make it a soft paste ; throw a little flour over, and let 
them lie an hour ; have ready a baking-platter rubbed over 
with butter; mould with the hand the dough into buns, about 



PASTRY, SlC. 383 

tlie size of a large egg ; lay them in rows full three inches 
apart ; set them in a warm place for half an hour, or till they 
have risen to double their size ; bake them in a hot oven of a 
g-ood colour, and wash them over with a brush dipped into 
milk when drawn from the oven. 

Cross Buns.— {No. 78.) 

To the above mixture put one ounce and a half of ground 
allspice, cinnamon, and mace, mixed ; and when half proved, 
press the form of a cross with a tin mould (made for the pur- 
pose) in the centre, and proceed as above. 

Seed Buns. — (No. 79.) 

Take tAvo pounds of plain bun dough (No. 77), and mix in 
one ounce of caraway seeds; butter the insides of small 
tart-pans ; mould the dough into buns, and put one in each 
pan; set them to rise in a warm place ; and when sufficiently 
proved, ice them with the white of an egg beat to a froth, and 
laid on with a paste-brush ; some pounded sugar upon that, 
and dissolve it with water splashed from the brush: bake 
them in a warm oven about ten minutes. 

Plum Buns. ~{No. SO.) ^ 

To two pounds of No. 77 mixture, put half a pound of cur- 
rants, a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel cut into 
small pieces, half a nutmeg grated, half an ounce of mixed 
spice, such as allspice, cinnamon, &c. : mould them into 
buns ; jag them round the edge with a knife, and proceed as 
with plain buns. No. 77. 

Orgeat.— {No. 81.) 

Pound very fine one pound of Jordan, and one ounce of 
bitter, almonds, in a marble mortar, with half a gill of orange- 
flower water to keep them from oiling ; then mix v/ith them 
one pint of rose and one pint of spring-water; rub it through 
a tamis cloth or lawn sieve, till the almonds are quite dry, 
which -will reduce the quantity to about a quart : have ready 
three pints of clariPiod sugar or water, ^ind boil it to a crack 
(which may be known by dipping your fingers into the sugar, 
and then into cold water ; and if you find the sugar to crack 
in moving your finger, it has boiled enough) ; put in the 
almonds ; boil it one minute, and when cold put it into small 
bottles close corked ; a table-spoonful of which will be suffi- 
cient ^*jy a tumbler of water : shake the bottle before using-. 



384 PASTRY, &C. 

Obs. — If the orgeat is for present use, the almonds may be 
pounded as above, and mixed with one quart of water, one 
quart of milk, a pint of capillaire or clarified sugar, rubbed 
through a tamis or fine sieve, and put into decanters for use. 

Baked Pears.— {No. 82.) 

Take twelve large baking pears ; pare and cut them into 
halves, leaving the stem about half an inch long ; take out 
the core with the point of a knife, and place them close toge- 
ther in a block-tin saucepan, the inside of which is quite 
bright, with the cover to fit quite close ; put to them the rind 
of a lemon cut thin, with half its juice, a small stick of cin 
namon, and twenty grains of allspice; cover them with 
spring-water, and allow one pound of loaf-sugar to a pint 
and a half of water: cover them up close, and bake them for 
six hours in a very slow oven : they will be quite tender, and 
of a bright colour. 

Obs. — Prepared cochineal is generally used for colouring 
the pears ; but if the above is strictly attended to, it will be 
found to answer best. 

To dry Apples.— (No. 83.) 

Take biffins, or orange or lemon-pippins; the former 
are the best ; choose the clearest rinds, and without any 
blemishes ; lay them on clean straw on a baking-wire ; cover 
them well with more straw ; set them into a slow oven ; let 
them remain for four or five hours ; draw them out and rub 
them in your hands, and press them very gently, otherwise 
you will burst the skins ; return them into the oven for about 
an hour ; press them again ; when cold, if they look dry, rub 
them over with a little clarified sugar. 

Obs. — By being put into the oven four or five times, press- 
ing them between each time, they may be brought as flat, 
and eat as well, as the dried biffins from Norfolk. 

Icing, for Twelfth or Bride Cake.— {No. 84.) 

Take one pound of double-refined sugar, pounded and 
sifted through a lawn sieve ; put into a pan quite free from 
grease ; break in the whites of six eggs, and as much powder 
blue as will lie on a sixpence ; beat it well with a spattle for 
ten minutes ; then squeeze in the juice of a lemon, and beat 
it till it becomes thick and transparent. Set the cake you 
intend to ice in an oven or warm place five minutes; then 
spread over the top and sides with the mixture as smooth as 



PASTllY, &c. 385 

possible. If for a wedding- cake only, plain ice it ; if for a 
twelfth cake, ornament it with g-um paste, or fancy articles 
of any description. 

Obs. — A good twelftli cake, not baked too much, and kept 
in a cool dry place, will retain its moisture and eat well, if 
twelve months old. 

To boil Sugar to Caramel, — (No. 85.) 

Break into a small C07»p?"r r brass pan one pound of refined 
sugar ; put in a gill of sprii 4- water ; set it on a fire ; when it 
boils skim it cpilte clean, and let it boil quick, till it comes to the 
degree calkdciack ; \vhich may be known by dipping a tea- 
spoon or skewer into the sugar, and letting it drop to the bottom 
of a pan of cold vv-ctcr ; and if it remains hard, it has attained 
that degree : squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and let it 
remain one minute longer on the fire ; then set the pan into 
another of cold water : have ready moulds of any shape ; rub 
them over with sweet oil ; dip a spoon or fork into the sugar, 
and throw it over the mould in fine threads, till it is quite 
covered : make a small handle of caramel, or stick on two or 
three small gum paste rings, by way of ornament, and place 
it over small pastry of any description. 

A Croquante of Paste. — (No. 86.) 

Roll out paste, as No. 8, about the eighth of an inch thick ; 
rub over a plain mould with a little fresh butter ; lay on the 
paste very even, and equally thin on both sides ; pare it round 
the rim ; then with a small penknife cut out small pieces, as 
fancy may direct, such as diamonds, stars, circles, sprigs, 
&c. ; or use a small tin cutter of any shape : let it lie to dry 
some time, and bake it a few minutes in a slack oven, of a 
light colour : remove it from the mould, and place it over a 
tart, or any other dish of small pastry. 



Derby or Short Cakes.— {No. 87.) 

Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two pounds 
of sifted flour ; put one pound of currants, one pound of good 
moist sugar, and one egg ; mix all together with half a pint 
of milk : roll it out thin, and cut them into round cakes with 
a cutter ; lay them on a clean baking-plate, and put them into 
a raiddling-he'-ted oven for about five minutes. 

Kk 



386 PASTRY, &C. 

Egg and Ham Patties. — (No. 88.) 

Cut a slice of bread two inches thick, from the most solid 
part of a stale quartern loaf: have ready a tin round cutter, 
two inches diameter ; cut out four or five pieces, then take a 
cutter two sizes smaller, press it nearly through the larg-er 
pieces, then remove with a small knife the bread from the 
inner circle : have ready a large stew-pan full of boiling lard; 
fry them of a light-brown colour, drain them dry Avith a clean 
cloth, and set them by till wanted ; then take half a pound 
of lean ham, mince it small ; add to it a gill of good brown 
sauce ; stir it over the fire a few minutes, and put a small 
quantity of Cayenne pepper and lemon-juice : fill the shapes 
with the mixture, and lay a poached egg (No. 546) upon each. 

Damson, or other Plum Cheese. — (No. 89.) 

Take damsons that have been preserved without sugar ; 
pass them through a sieve, to take out the skins and stones. 
To every pound of pulp of fruit put half a pound of loaf sugar, 
broke small ; boil them together till it becomes qurte stiff; 
pour it into four common-sized dinner plates, rubbed with a 
little sweet oil ; put it into a warm place to dry, and when 
quite firm, take it from the plate, and out it into any shape 
you choose. 

N.B. Damson cheese is generally used in desserts. 

Barley Sugar. — (No. 90.) 

Clarify, as No. 475, three pounds of refined sugar ; boil it 
to the degree of cracked (which may be ascertained by dip- 
ping a spoon into the sugar, and then instantly into cold 
water, and if it appears brittle, it is boiled enough) ; squeeze 
in a small tea-spoonful of the juice, and four drops of essence 
of lemon, and let it boil up once or twice, and set it by a few 
minutes : have ready a marble slab, or smooth stone, rubbed 
over with sweet oil ; pour over the sugar , cut it into long 
stripes with a large pair of scissors; twist it a little, and 
when cold, keep it from the air in tin boxes or canisters. 

N.B. A few drops of essence of ginger, instead of lemon, 
will make what is called ginger barley sugar. 

Barley Sugar Drops. — (No. 91.) 

■ To be made as the last receipt. Have ready, by the time 
the sugar is boiled sufficiently, a large sheet of paper, with a 
smooth layer of sifted loaf sugar on it ; put the boiled sugar 



PASTRY, &C. 387 

into a ladle that has a fine lip ; pour it out, in drops not larger 
than a shilling, on to the sifted sugar ; when cold, fold them 
up separately in white paper. 

N.B. Some use an oiled marble slab instead of the sifted 
sugar. 

Raspberry Jam. — (No. 92.) 

Rub fresh-gathered raspberries, taken on a dry day, through 
a wicker sieve ; to one pint of the pulp put one pound of 
loaf sugar, broke small ; put it into a preserving-pan over a 
brisk fire ; when it begins to boil, skim it well, and stir it 
twenty minutes ; put into small pots ; cut white paper to the 
size of the top of the pot ; dip them in brandy, and put them 
over the jam when cold, with a double paper tied over the pot. 

Strawberry jam is made the same way, and the scaxlets 
are most proper for that purpose. 

Apricotf or any Plum Jam. — (No. 93.) 

After taking away the stones from the apricots, and cut- 
ting out any blemishes they may have ; put them over a slow 
fire, in a clean stew-pan, with half a pint of water ; when 
scalded, rub them through a hair-sieve : to every pound of 
pulp put one pound of sifted loaf-sugar ; put it into a pre- 
serving-pan over a brisk fire, and when it boils skim it well, 
and throw in the kernels of the apricots, and half an ounce 
of bitter almonds, blanched ; boil it a quarter of an hour fast, 
and stirring it all the time ; remove it from the fire, and fill 
it into pots, and cover them as at No. 92. 

N.B. Green gages or plums may be done in the same way, 
omitting the kernels or almonds. 

Lemon Chips. — ^(No. 94.) ^ 

Take large smooth-rinded Malaga lemons ; race or cut off 
their peel into chips with a small knife (this will require 
some practice to do it properly) ; throw them into salt and 
water till next day ; have ready a pan of boiling water, ftirow 
them in and boil them tendter. Drain them well : after having 
lain so^ie time in water to cool, put them in an earthen pan, 
pour over enough* boiliipg clarified sugar to cover them, and 
then let them lie two days ; then strain the syrup, put more 
sugar, andh^educe it by boiling till the syrup is quite thick ; 
put in the chips, and simmer them a few minutes, and set 
them by for two days : repeat it once more ; let them be two 
days longer, and they will be fit to candy, which must be 



388 PASTRY, &C. 

done as follows : take four pints of clarified sugar, which will 
be sufficient for six pounds of chips, boil it to the degree of 
blown (which may be knoM^n by dipping the skimmer into the 
sugar, and blowing strongly through the holes of it ; if little 
bladders appear, it has attained that degree) ; and when the 
chips are thoroughly drained and wiped on a clean cloth, put 
them into the syrup, stirring them about with the skimmer 
till you see the sugar become w^hite ; then take them out with 
two forks ; shake them lightly into a wire sieve, and set them 
into a stove, or in a warm place to dry. 
N.B. Orange chips are done in the same way. 

Dried Cherries. — (No. 95.) 

Take large Kentish cherries, not too ripe ; pick off the 
stalks, and take out the stones with a quill, cut nearly as for 
a pen : to three pounds of w^hich take three pounds or pints 
of clarified sugar — (see No. 475,) boil it to the degree of 
blown (for which see last receipt) ; put in the cherries, give 
them a boil, and set them by in an earthen pan till the next 
day ; then strain the syrup, add more sugar, and boil it of a 
good consistence; put the cherries in, and boil them five 
minutes, and set them by another day : repeat the boiling 
two more days, and when wanted, drain them some time, 
and lay them on wire sieves to dry in a stove, or nearly cold 
oven. 

Green Gages preserved in Syrup. — (No. 96.) 

Take the gages when nearly ripe ; cut the stalks about 
half an inch from the fruit ; put them into cold water, with a 
lump of alum about the size of a walnut ; and set them on a slow 
fire till they come to a simmer : take them from the fire, and 
put them into cold water; drain, and pack them close into a 
preserving-pan ; pour over them enough clarified sugar to 
cover them ; simmer them two or three minutes ; set them 
by in an earthen pan till next day, when drain the gages, and 
boil the syrup with more sugar, till quite thick ; put in the 
gages, and simmer them three minutes more, and repeat it 
for two days ; then boil clarified sugar to a blow, as at No. 
94, place the gages into glasses, and poar the syrup over, 
and, when cold, tie over a bladder, and upon that a leather •, 
and should you want any for diying, drain and dry tkem on a 
wire sieve in a stove or slow oven. 

Apricots or egg plums may be done in the same way. 



TASTRY, &LC. 389 

Tb pr-acrve Ginger. — (No. 97.) 

Take p;recTi g'inger, pare it neatly with a sharp knife; 
throw it into a pan of cold water as it is pared, to keep it 
white ; when you have sufficient, boil it till tender, changing 
the water three times ; each time put it into cold water to 
take out the heat or spirit of the ginger ; when tender, throw 
it into cold water : for seven pounds of ginger, clarify eight 
pounds of refined sugar, see No. 475 ; when cold, drain the 
ginger, and put it in an earthen pan, with enough of the 
sugar, cold, to cover it, and let it stand two days ; then pour 
the s}nrup from the ginger to the remainder of the sugar ; 
boil it some time, and when cold, pour it on the ginger again, 
and set it by three days at least. Then take the syrup from 
the ginger ; boil it, and put it hot over the ginger ; proceed in 
this way till you find the sugar has entered the ginger, boiling 
the syrup, and skimming off the scum that rises each time, 
until the syrup becomes rich as well as the ginger. 

Obs. — If you put the syrup on hot at first, or if too rich, the 
ginger will shrink, and not take the sugar. 

N.B. When green ginger is not to be procured, take large 
races of Jamaica ginger boiled several times in water till 
tender, pare neatly, and proceed as above. 

To preserve Cucumbers. — (No. 98.) 

Take large and fresh-gathered cucumbers ; split them down 
and take out all the seeds ; lay them in salt and water that 
will bear an egg, three days ; set them on a fire with cold 
water, and a small lump of alum, and boil them a few 
minutes, or till tender ; drain them, and pour on them a thin 
syrup ; let them lie two days ; boil the syrup again, and put 
it over the cucumbers ; repeat it twice more ; then have ready 
some fresh clarified sugar, boiled to a blow (see No. 94) ; 
put in the cucumbers, and simmer it five minutes ; set it by 
till next day; boil the syrup and cucumbers again, and set 
them in glasses for use. 

Preserved Fruit, "without Sugar. — (No. 99.) 

Take damsons when not too ripe ; pick off the stalks, and 
put them into wide-mouthed glass bottles, taking care not to 
put in any but what are whole, and without blemish ; shake 
them well down (otherwise the bottles will not be half full 
when done) ; stop the bottles with new soft corks, not too 
tight ; set them into a very slow oven (nearly cold) four or 
five hours; the slower they are done the better; when they 

Kk2 



390 BREAD. 

begin to shrink in the bottles, it is a sure sign that the fruit 
is thoroughly warm : take them out, and before they are cold, 
drive in the corks quite tight ; set them in a bottle-rack or 
basket, with the mouth downwards, and they will keep good 
several years. ' 

Green gooseberries, morello cherries, currants, green 
gages, or buUace, may be done the same way. 

Obs. — If the corks are good, and fit well, there will be no 
occasion for cementing them ; but should bungs be used, it 
will be necessary. 

Bread.— {No. 100.) 

Put a quartern of flour into a large basin, with two tea- 
spoonfuls of salt ; make a hole in the middle ; then put in a 
basin four table-spoonfuls of good yest; stir in a pint of 
milk, lukewarm ; put it in the hole of the flour ; stir it just 
to make it of a thin batter ; then strew a little flour over the 
top ; then set it on one side of the fire, and cover it over ; 
let it stand till the next morning; then make it into dough; 
add half a pint more of warm milk ; knead it for ten minutes, 
and then set it in a warm place by the fire for one hour and 
a half; then knead§t again, and it is ready either for loaves 
or bricks : bake them from one hour and a half to two hours, 
according to the size. 

French Bread and Rolls.— {No. 100*.) 

Take a pint and a half of milk ; make it quite wann ; half 
a pint of small-beer yest ; add sufficient flour to make it as 
thick as batter ; put it into a pan ; cover it over, and keep it 
warm: when it has risen as high as it will, add a quarter of a 
pint of warm water, and half an ounce of salt, — mix them well 
together; — rub into a little flour two ounces of butter; then 
make your dough, not quite so stiff" as for your bread ; let it 
stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready to 
make into rolls, &c. : let them stand till they have risen, and 
bake them in a quick oven. 

Sally Lunn. — Tea Cakes. — (No. 101.) 

Take one pint of milk quite warm, a quarter of a pint of 
thick small-beer yest ; put them into a pan with flour sufli- 
cient to make it as thick as batter, — cover it over, and let it 
stand till it has risen as high as it will, i. e. about two hours : 
add two ounces of lump sugar, dissolved in a quarter of a 



BREAD. 391 

pint of warm milk,* a quarter of a pound of butter nibbed 
into your flour very fine ; then make your dough the same 
as for French rolls, &c. ; and let it stand half an hour ; then 
make up your cakes, and put them on tins : when they have 
stood to rise, bake them in a quick oven. 

Care should be taken never to put your yest to water or 
milk too hot, or too cold, as either extreme will destroy the 
fermentation. In summer it should be lukewarm, in winter 
a little warmer, and in very cold weather, warmer still. 

When it has first risen, if you are not prepared, it will not 
hurt to stand an hour. 



Mifffins.—{No. 102.) 

Take one pint of milk quite warm, and a quarter of a pint 
of thick small-beer yest ; strain them into a pan, and add 
sufficient flour to make it like a batter ; cover it over, and 
let it stand in a warm place until it has risen ; then add a 
quarter of a pint of warm milk, and one ounce of butter 
rubbed in some flour quite fine; mix them well together: 
then add sufficient flour to make it into dough, cover it over, 
and let it stand half an hour ; then work it up again, and 
break it into small pieces : roll them up quite round, and 
cover them over for a quarter of an hour ; then bake them. 

Crumpets. — (No. 103.) 

The same : instead of making the mixture into dough, add 
only sufficient flour to make a thick batter, and when it has 
stood a quarter of an hour it will be ready to bake. 

Muffins and crump.ets bake best on a stove with an iron 
plate fixed on the top ; but they will also bake in a frying- 
pan, taking care the fire is not too fierce, and turning them 
when lightly browned. 

Yorkshire Cakes. — (No. 104.) 

Take a pint and a half of milk quite warm, and a quarter of 
a pint of thick small-beer yest ; mix them well together in a 
pan with sufficient flour to make a thick batter ; let it stand 
in a warm place covered over until it has risen as high as it 
will ; rub six ounces of butter into some flour till it is quite 
fine ; then break three eggs into your pan with the flour and 
butter ; mix them well together ; then add sufficient flour to 
make it into a dough, and let it stand a quarter of an hour; 

* If you do not mind the expense, the cake will be much lighter if, instead of the 
milk, you put four eggs. 



392 PUDDINGS AND PIES. 

then work it up again, and break it into pieces about the size 
of an egg, or larger, as you may fancy ; roll them round and 
smooth with your hand, and put them on tins, and let them 
stand covered over with a light piece of flaimel. 



OBSERVATIONS ON PUDDINGS AND PIES. 

The quality of the various articles employed in the com- 
position of puddings and pies varies so much, that two pud- 
dings, made exactly according to the same receipt, will be 
so different* one would hardly suppose they were made by 
the same person, and certainly not with precisely the same 
quantities of the (apparently) same ingredients. Flour fresh 
ground, pure new milk, fresh laid eggs, fresh butter, fresh 
suet, &c. will make a very different composition, than when 
kept till each article is half spoiled. 

Plum puddings, when boiled, if hung up in a cool place in 
the cloth they are boiled in, will keep good some months ; 
when wanted, take them out of the cloth, and put them into 
a clean cloth, and as soon as warmed through, they are ready. 

Mem. — In composing these receipts, the quantities of eggs, 
butter, &c. are considerably less than are ordered in other 
cookery books ; but quite sufficient for the purpose of making 
the puddings light and wholesome; — we have diminished the 
expense, without impoverishing the preparations ; and the 
rational epicure will be as well pleased with them as the 
rational economist. 

Milk, in its genuine state, varies considerably in the quan- 
tity of cream it will throw up, depending on the material 
with which the cow is fed. The cow that gives the most 
milk does not always produce the most cream, which varies 
fifteen or twenty per cent. 

Eggs vary considerably in size ; in the following receipts 
"W^e mean the full-sized hen's egg ; if you have only pullet's 
eggs, use two for one. Break eggs one by one into a basin, 
and not all into the bowl together ; because then, if you meet 
with a bad one, that will spoil all the rest: strain them 
through a sieve to take out the treddles. 

* An old gentlewoman, who lived almost entirely on puddings, told us, it was a 
long time before she could get them made uniformly good, till she made the following 
rule : — " If the pudding was good, she let tlie cook have the remainder of it ; if it was 
not, she gave it to her lapdog ;" but as soon as this resolution was known, pool 
little Bow-wow seldom got the sweet treat after. 



PUDDINGS AND PIES. 393 

N.B. To preserve eg-g-s for twelve months, see N.B. to 
No. 547. Snow, and small beer, have been recommended 
by some economists as admirable substitutes for eggs ; they 
will no more answer this purpose than as substitutes for 
sug"ar or brandy. 

Flour, according- to that champion against adulteration, 
Mr. Accum, varies in quality as much as any thing. 
' Butter also varies much in quality. Salt butter may be 
washed from the salt, and then it will make very good pastiy. 

Lard varies extremely from the time it is kept, &c. When 
you purchase it, have the bladder cut, and ascertain that it 
be sweet and good. 

Suet. Beef is the best, then mutton and veal ; when this 
is used in very hot weather, while you chop it, dredge it 
lightly with a little flour. 

Beef-marrow is excellent for most of the purposes for 
which suet is employed. 

Drippings, especially from beef, when very clean and nice, 
are frequently used for kitchen crusts and pies, and for such 
purposes are a satisfactory substitute for butter, lard, &c. 
To clean and preserve drippings, see No. 83. 

Currants, previous to putting them into the pudding, should 
be plumped : this is done by pouring some boiling water upon 
them : wash them well, and then lay them on a sieve or cloth 
before the fire, pick them clean from the stones ; — this not 
only makes them look better, but cleanses them from all dirt. 

Raisins, figs, dried cherries, candied orange and lemon- 
peel, citron, and preserves of all kinds, fresh fruits, goose- 
berries, currants, plums, damsons, &c. are added to batter 
and suet puddings, or enclosed in the crust ordered for apple 
dumplings, and make all the various puddings called by those 
names. 

Batter puddings must be quite smooth and free from lumps ; 
to ensure this, first mix the flour with a little milk, add the 
remainder by degrees, and then the other ingredients. 

If it is a plain pudding, put it through a hair-sieve ; this 
will take out all lumps effectually. 

Batter puddings should be tied up tight: if boiled in a 
mould, butter it first ; if baked, also butter the pan. 

Be sure the water boils before you put in the pudding; set 
your stew-pan on a trivet over the fire, and keep it steadily 
boiling all the time ; — if set upon the fire, the pudding often 
burns. 

Be scrupulously careful that your pudding-cloth is perfectly 
sweet and clean; wash it without any soap, unless very 
greasy ; then rinse it thoroughly in clean water after. Im- 



394 PrDWNGS AND PlEg. 

mediately before you use it, dip it in boiling" water ; squeeze 
It dry, and dredge it with flour. 

If your fire is very fierce, mind and stir the puddings every 
now and then to keep them from sticking to the bottom of 
the saucepan ; if in a mould, this care is not so much re- 
quired, but keep plenty of water in the saucepan. 

When puddings are boiled in a cloth, it should be just dip- 
j>ed in a basin of cold water, before you untie the pudding- 
cloth, as that will prevent it from sticking ; but when boiled 
in a mould, if it is well buttered, they will turn out without. 
Custard or bread puddings require to stand five minutes before 
they are turned out. They should always be boiled in a 
mould or cups. 

Keep your paste-board, rolling-pin, cutters, and tins very 
clean: the least dust on the tins and cutters, or the least 
hard paste on the rolling-pin, will spoil the whole of your 
labour. 

Things used for pastry or cakes should not be used for any 
other purpose ; be very careful that your flour is dried at th(^ 
fire before you use it, for puff" paste or cakes ; if damp it will 
make them heav3^ 

In using butter for puff" paste, you should take the greatest 
care to previously work it well on the paste-board or slab, 
to get out all the water and buttermilk, which very often 
remains in ; when you have worked it well with a clean 
knife, dab it over witli a soft cloth, and it is then ready to lay 
on your paste ; do not make your paste over stiff" before you 
■ put in your butter. 

For those who do not understand making puff" paste, it is 
by far the best way to M^ork the butter in at two separate 
times, divide it in half, and break the half in little bits, and 
-cover your paste all over: dredge it lightly with flour, then 
fold it over each side and ends, roll it out quite thin, and then 
put in the rest of the butter, fold it, and roll it again. 
Remember always to roll puff" paste from you. The best 
made paste, if not properly baked, will not do the cook any 
credit. 

Those who use iron ovens do not always succeed in baking 
puff" paste, fruit pies, &c. Puff paste is often spoiled by 
baking it after fruit pies, in an iron oven. This may be 
easily avoided, by putting two or three bricks that are quite 
even into the oven before it is first set to get hot. This will 
not only prevent the syrup from boiling out of the pies, but 
also prevent a very disagreeable smell in the kitchen and 
house, and almost answers the same purpose- as a brick 
oven. 



PUDDINGS AND TIES. 395 

College Puddings. — (No. 105.) 

Beat four eggs, yelks and whites together, in a quart basin, 
Xvith two ounces of flour, half a nutmeg, a little ginger, and 
three ounces of sugar; pounded loaf sugar is best. Beat 
it into a smooth batter ; then add six ounces of suet, chopped 
fine, six of currants, well washed and picked ; mix it all well 
together; a glass of brandy or white wine will improve it. 
These puddings are generalh^ fried in butter or lard ; but they 
are much nicer baked in an oven in patty-pans ; twenty 
minutes will bake them : if fried, fry them till they are of a 
nice liglit brown, and Avhen fried, roll them in a little flour. 
You may add one ounce of orange or citron, minced very 
fine ; when you bake them, add one more e^g, or two spoon- 
fuls of milk. Serve them up with white Avine sauce. 

Rice Puddings baked, or boiled. — (No. 106.) 

Wash in cold water and pick very clean six ounces of rice, 
put it in a quart stew-pan three parts filled with cold water, 
set it on the fire, and let it boil five minutes; pour away the 
water, and put in one quart of milk, a roll of lemon peel, and a 
bit of cinnamon ; let it boil gentl}' till the rice is quite tender ; 
it will take at least one hour and a quarter ; be careful to stir 
it every five minutes ; take it off the fire, and stir in an ounce 
and a half of fresh butter, and beat up three eggs on a plate, 
a salt-spoonful of nutmeg, two ounces of sugar; put it into 
the pudding, and stir it till it is quite smooth ; line a pie-dish 
big enough to hold it with pufi paste, notch it round the edge, 
put in your pudding, and bake it three quarters of an hour : 
this will be a nice firm pudding. 

If you like it to eat more like custard, add one more egg^ 
and half a pint more milk ; it will be better a little thinner 
when boiled ; one hour will boil it. If you like it in little 
puddings, butter small tea-cups, and either bake or boil them, 
half an hour Avill do either : you may vary the pudding by 
putting in candied lemon or orange-peel, minced very fine, 
or dried cherries, or three ounces of currants, or raisins, or 
apples minced fine. 

If the puddings are baked or boiled, serve them with white- 
wine sauce, or butter and sugar. 

Ground Rice Pudding. — (No. 107.) 

Put four ounces of ground rice into a stew-pan, and by 
degrees stir in a pint and a half of milk ; set it on the fire, 
with a roll of lemon and a bit of cinnamon ; keep stirring 



396 PUDDINGS AND MES. 

it till it boils ; beat it to a smooth batter ; then set it on the 
trivet, where it will simmer g-ently for a quarter of an hour ; 
then beat three eggs on a plate, stir them into the pudding 
with two ounces of sugar and two drachms of nutmeg, take 
out the lemon-peel and cinnamon, stir it all well together, 
line a pie-dish with thin puff paste (No. 1 of receipts for 
pastry), big enough to hold it, or butter the dish well, and 
bake it half an hour ; if boiled, it will take one hour in a 
mould well buttered ; three ounces of currants may be added. 

Rice Snow Balls.— {No. 108.) 

.Wash and pick half a pound of rice very clean, put it on 
in a saucepan with plenty of water ; when it boils let it boil 
ten minutes, drain it on a sieve till it is quite dr}^, and then 
pare six apples, weighing two ounces and a half each. Divide 
the rice into six parcels, in separate cloths, put one apple in 
each, tie it loose, and boil it one hour ; serve it with sugar 
and butter, or wine sauce. 

Rice Blancmange. — (No. 109.) 

Put a tea-cupful of whole rice into the least water possi- 
ble, till it almost bursts ; then add half a pint of good milk 
or thin cream, and boil it till it is quite a mash, stirring it the 
whole time it is on the fire, that it ma}^ not bum ; dip a shape 
in cold water, and do not dr}^ it ; put in the rice, and let it 
stand until quite cold, when it will come easily out of the 
shape. This dish is much approved of; it is eaten with 
cream or custard, and preserved fruits ; raspberries are best. 
It should be made the day before it is wanted, that it may 
get firm. 

This blancmange will eat much nicer, flavoured with 
spices, lemon-peel, &c., and sweetened with a little loaf 
sugar, add it with the milk, and take out the lemon-peel 
before you put in the mould. 

Save-all Pudding.— (So. 110.) 

Put anj^ scraps of bread into a clean saucepan ; to about 
a pound, put a pint of milk ; set it on the trivet till it boils ; 
beat it up quite smooth ; then break in three eggs, three ounces 
of sugar, with a little nutmeg, ginger, or allspice, and stir it 
all well together. Butter a dish big enough to hold it, put in 
the pudding, and have ready two ounces of suet chopped 
very fine, strew it over the top of the pudding, and bake it 



» PUDDINGS AND PIES. 397 

three quarters ot an hour; four ounces of currants will 
make it much better. 

Batter Pudding, baked or boiled. — (No. 111.) 

Break three eg-gs in a basin with as much salt as will lie 
on a sixpence ; beat them well together, and then add four 
ounces of flour ; beat it into a smooth batter, and by degrees 
add half a pint of milk : have your saucepan ready boiling, 
and butter an earthen mould well, put the pudding in, and 
tie it tight over with a pudding-cloth, and boil it one hour 
and a quarter. Or, put it in a dish that you have Avell but- 
tered, and bake it three quarters of an hour. 

Currants washed and picked clean, or raisins stoned, are 
good in this pudding, and it is then called a black cap : or, 
add loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg and ginger without the 
fruit, — it is very good that way; serve it with wine sauce. 

Apple Pudding boiled. — (No. 112.) 

Chop four ounces of beef suet very fine, or two ounces of 
butter, lard, or dripping; but the suet makes the best and 
lightest crust ; put it on the paste-board, with eight ounces 
of flour, and a salt-spoonful of salt, mix it well together with 
your hands, and then put it all of a heap, and make a hole in 
the middle ; break one egg in it, stir it well together with 
your finger, and by degrees infuse as much water as will 
make it of a stiff paste : roll it out two or three times, with 
the rolling-pin, and then roll it large enough to receive thir- 
teen ounces of apples. It will look neater if boiled in a 
basin, wtU buttered, than when boiled in a pudding-cloth, 
well floured ; boil it an hour and three quarters : but the 
surest way is to stew the apples first in a stew-pan, with a 
wine-glassful of water, and then one hour will boil it. Some 
people like it flavoured with cloves and lemon-peel, and 
sweeten it with two ounces of sugar. 

Gooseberries, currants, raspberries, and cherries, damsons, 
and various plums and fruits, are made into puddings with 
the same crust directed for apple puddings. 

Apple Dumplings. — (No. 113.) 

Make paste the same as for apple pudding, divide it into 
as many pieces as you want dumplings, peel the apples and 
core them, then roll out your paste large enough, and put in 
the apples ; close it all round, and tie them in pudding-cloths 
very tight ; one hour will boil them : and when you take them 

LI 



398 MCKLES. 

up, just dip them in cold water, and put them in a cup the 
size of the dumpling while you untie them, and they will turn 
out without breaking-. 

Suet Pudding or Dumplings. — (No. 114.) 

Chop six ounces of suet very fine : put it in a basin with 
six ounces of flour, tv/o ounces of bread-crumbs, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; stir it all well together: beat two eggs on a 
plate, add to them six table-spoonfuls of milk, put it by 
degrees into the basin, and stir it all well together ; divide 
it into six dumplings, and tie them separate, previously 
dredging the cloth lightly with flour. Boil them one hour. 

This is very good the next day fried in a little butter. The 
above will make a good pudding, boiled in an earthenware 
mould, with the addition of one more egg, a little more milk, 
and two ounces of suet. Boil it two hours. 

N.B. The most economical way of making suet dump- 
lings, is to boil them without a cloth in a pot with beef or 
mutton; no eggs are then wanted, and the dumplings are 
quite as light without : roll them in flour before you put them 
into the pot; add six ounces of currants, washed and picked, 
and you have currant pudding: or divided into six parts, cur- 
rant dumplings ; a little sugar will improve them. 

Cottage Potato Pudding or Cake.— {No. 115.) 

Peel, boil, and mash, a couple of pounds of potatoes : beat 
them up into a smooth batter, with about three quarters of a 
pint of milk, two ounces of moist sugar, and two or three 
beaten eggs. Bake it about three quarters of an hour. 
Three ounces of currants or raisins may be added. Leave 
out the milk, and add three ounces of butter, — it will make a 
very nice cake. 



OBSERVATIONS ON PICKLES. 

We are not fond of pickles : these sponges of vinegar are 
often very indigestible, especially in the crisp state in Avhich 
they are most admired. The Indian fashion of pounding 
pickles is an excellent one : we recommend those who have 
any regard for their stomach, yet still wish to indulge their 
tongue, instead of eating pickles, which are really merely 



PICKLES. 399 

vehicles for taking a certain portion of vinegar and spice, 
&c. to use the flavoured vineg-ars; such as burnet (No. 399), 
horseradish (No. 399*), tarragon (No. 396), mint (No. 397), 
cress (Nos. 397*, 401, 403, 405*, 453, 457), &c. ; by combina- 
tions of these, a relish may easily be composed, exactly in 
harmony with the palate of tlie eater. 

The pickle made to preserve cucumbers, &c. is generally 
so strongly impregnated with garlic, mustard, and spice, &c. 
that the original flavour of the vegetables is quite over- 
powered; and if the eater shuts his eyes, his lingual nerves 
will be puzzled to inform him whether he is munching an 
onion or a cucumber, &c., and nothing can be more absurd, 
than to pickle plums, peaches, apricots, currants, grapes, &c. 

The strongest vinegar must be used for pickling: it must 
not be boiled or the strength of the vinegar and spices will be 
evaporated. By parboiling the pickles in brine, they will be 
ready in much less time than they are when done in the usual 
manner, of soaking them in cold salt and Avater for six or 
eight daj^s. When taken out of the hot brine, let them get 
cold and quite dry before you put them into the pickle. 

To assist the preservation of pickles, a portion of salt is 
added; and for the same purpose, and to give flavour, long 
pepper, black pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, garlic, 
eschalots, mustard, horseradish, and capsicum. 

The following is the best method of preparing the pickle, 
as cheap as any, and requires less care than any other way. 

Bruise in a mortar four ounces of the above spices ; put 
them into a stone jar with a quart of the strongest vinegar, 
stop the jar closely with a bung, cover that with a bladder 
soaked Avith pickle, set it on a trivet by the side of the fire for 
three days, well shaking it up at least three times in the day; 
the pickle should be at least three inches above the pickles. 
The jar being well closed, and the infusion being made with 
a mild heat, there is no loss by evaporation. 

To enable the articles pickled more easily and speedily to 
imbibe the flavour of the pickle they are immersed in, pre- 
viously to pouring it on them, run a larding-pin through them 
in several places. 

The spices, &c. commonly used, are those mentioned in 
the receipt for pickling walnuts ; which is also an excellent 
savoury sauce for cold meats. 

The flavour may be varied ad infinitum by adding celery, 
cress-seed, or curry powder (No. 455), or by taking for the 
liquor any of the flavoured vinegars, &c. we have enumerated 
above, and see the receipts between Nos. 395 and 421. 

Pickles should be kept in a dry place, in unglazed earthen- 



400 PICKLES. 

ware, or glass jars, which are preferable, as you can, without 
opening them, observe whether they want filling up: they 
must be very carefully stopped with well-fitted bungs, and 
tied over as closely as possible with a bladder wetted with 
the pickle ; and if to be preserved a long time, after that is 
dry, it must be dipped in bottle-cement; see page 127. 

When the pickles are all used, boil up the liquor with a 
little fresh spice. 

To wahiut liquor may be added a few anchovies and 
eschalots : let it stand till it is quite clear, and bottle it: thus 
you may furnish )-our table with an excellent savoury keeping 
sauce for hashes, made dishes, fish, &c. at very small cost ; 
see No. 439. 

Jars should not be more than three parts filled with the 
articles pickled, which should be covered with pickle at least 
two inches above their surface ; the liquor wastes, and all of 
the articles pickled, that are not covered, are soon spoiled. 

When they have been done about a vreek, open the jars, 
and fidl them up with pickle. 

Tie a wooden spoon, full of holes, round each jar to take 
them out with. 

If you wish to have gherkins, &c. very green, this may 
be easily accomplished by keeping them in vinegar, suffi- 
ciently hot, till they become so. 

If you wish cauliflowers, onions, &c. to be white, use dis- 
tilled vinegar for them. 

To entirely prevent the mischief arising from the action 
of the acid upon tiie metallic utensils usually employed to 
prepare pickles, the whole of the process is directed to be 
performed in unglazed etone jars. 

N.B. The maxim of " open your mouth, and shut your 
eyes," cannot be better applied than to pickles ; and the only 
direction we have to record for the improvement of their 
complexion, is the joke of Dr. Goldsmith, "If their colour 
does not please you, send 'em to Hammersmith, that's the 
way to Turnham Green." 

Commencing the list with walnuts, I must take this oppor- 
tunity of impressing the necessity of being strictly particular 
in watching the due season ; for of all the variety of articles 
in this department to furnish the well-regulated store-roorti, 
nothing is so precarious, for frequently after the first week 
that walnuts come in season, they become hard and shelled, 
particularly if the season is a very hot one ; therefore let the 
prudent housekeeper consider it indispensably necessary 
they should be pnrchased as soon as they first appear at 
market ; should they cost a trifle more, thai is nothing com- 



PICKLES. 401 

pared to the disappointment of finding, six months hence, 
when you go to your pickle-jar, expecting a fine rehsh for 
your chops, &c. to find the nuts incased in a shell, which 
defies both teeth and steel. 

Nasturtiums are to be had by the middle of July. 

Garlic, from Midsummer to Michaelmas. 

Eschalots, ditto. 

Onions, the various kinds for pickling, are to be had, by the 
middle of July, and for a month after. 

Gherkins are to be had by the middle of July, and for a 
month after. 

Cucumbers are to be had by the middle of July, and for a 
month after. 

Melons and mangoes are to be had by the middle of July, 
and for a month after. 

Capsicums, green, red, and yellow, the end of July, and fol- 
lowing month. 

Chilies, the end of July, and following month. See Nos. 
404 and 405*, and No. 406. 

Love apples, or tomatas, end of July, and throughout 
August. See No. 443. 

Cauliflower, for pickling, July and August. 

Artichokes, for pickling, July and August. 

Jerusalem artichokes, for pickling, July and August, and 
for three months after. 

Radish pods, for pickling, July. 

French beans, for pickling, July. 

Mushrooms, for pickling and catchup, September. See 
No. 439. 

Red cabbage, August. 

White cabbage, September and October. 

Samphire, August. 

Horseradish, November and December. 

Wahiuts.—{No, 116.) 

Make a brine of salt and water, in the proportion of a 
quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water ; put the walnuts 
into this to soak for a week ; or if you wish to soften them so 
that they may be soon ready for eating, run a larding-pin 
through them in half a dozen places — this will allow the pickle 
to penetrate, and they will be much softer, and of better 
flavour, and ready much sooner than if not perforated ; put 
them into a stew-pan with such brine, and give them a gentle 
simmer ; put them on a sieve to drain ; then lay them on a fish 
plate, and let them stand in the air till they turn black— this 

Ll-2 



402 PICKLES. 

may take a couple of days ; put them into glass, or unglazed 
stone jars; fill these about three parts with the walnuts, and 
fill them up with the following pickle. 

To each quart of the strongest vinegar put two ounces of 
black pepper, one of ginger, same of eschalots, same of 
salt, half an ounce of allspice, and half a drachm of Cayenne. 
Put these into a stone jar; cover it with a bladder, wetted 
with pickle, tie over that some leather, and set the jar on a 
trivet by the side of the fire for three days, shaking it up 
three times a day, and then pour it while hot to the walnuts, 
and cover them dov/n with bladder wetted with the pickle, 
leather, &c. 

Gherkins.— {No. 117.) 

Get tnose of about four inches long, and an inch in 
diameter, the crude half-grown little gherkins usually pickled 
are good for nothing. Put them into (unglazed) stone pans ; 
cover them with a brine of salt and water, made with a 
quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water ; cover them 
down ; set them on the earth before the fire for two or three 
days till they begin to turn yellow ; then put away the water, 
and cover them with hot vinegar ; set them again before the 
fire ; keep them hot till they become green (this will take 
eight or ten days) ; then pour off the vinegar, having ready 
to cover them a pickle of fresh vinegar, &c., the same as 
directed in the preceding receipt for walnuts (leaving out the 
eschalots) ; cover them with a bung, bladder, and leather. 
Read the observations on pickles, p. 487. 

Obs. — The vinegar the gherkins were greened in wiUmake 
excellent salad sauce, or for cold meats. It is, in fact, super- 
lative cucumber vinegar. 

French Beans — JVasturtiums, ^c. — (No. 118.) 

When young, and most other small green vegetables, may 
be pickled the same way as gherkins. 

Beet Roots.— {No. 119.) 

Boil gently till they are full three parts done (this will take 
from an hour and a half to two and a half) ; then take them 
out, and when a little cooled, peel them, and cut them in 
slices about half an inch thick. Have ready a pickle for it, 
made by adding to each a quart of vinegar an ounce of 
ground black pepper, half an ounce of ginger pounded, same 
of salt, and of horseradish cut in thin slices ; and you may 



PICKLES. 403 

warm it, if you like, with a few capsicums, or a little Cayenne ; 
put these ingredients into a jar; stop it close, and let them 
steep three days on a trivet by the side of the fire ; then, 
when cold, pour the clear liquor on the beet-root, which have 
previously arranged in ajar. 

Red Cabbage.— [No. 120.) 

Get a fine purple cabbage, take off the outside leaves, 
quarter it, take out the stalk, shred the leaves into a colander, 
sprinkle them with salt, let them remain till the morrow, 
drain them dry, put them into a jar, and cover them with the 
pickle for beet roots. 

Omow5.— (No. 121.) 

The small round silver button onions, about as big as a 
nutmeg, make a very nice pickle. Take off their top coats, 
have ready a stew-pan, three parts filled with boiling water, 
into which put as many onions as will cover the top : as 
soon as they look clear, immediately take them up with a 
spoon full of holes, and lay them on a cloth three times 
folded, and cover them with another till you have ready as 
many as you wish : when they are quite dr}^ put them into 
jars, and cover them with hot pickle, made by infusing an 
ounce of horseradish, same of allspice, and same of black 
pepper, and same of salt, in a quart of best white-wine 
vinegar, in a stone jar, on a trivet by the side of the fire for 
three days, keeping it well closed ; Avhen cold, bung them 
down tight, and cover them with bladder wetted with the 
pickle and leather. 

Cauliflowers or Broccoli. — (No. 122.) 

Choose those that are hard, yet sufficiently ripe, cut away 
the leaves and stalks. 

Set on a stew-pan half full of water, salted in proportion 
of a quarter of a pound of salt to a quart of water ; throw in 
the cauliflower, and let it heat gradually ; when it boils take it 
up with a spoon full of holes, and spread them on a cloth to dry 
before the fire, for twenty-four hours at least ; when quite 
dry", put them, piece by piece, into jars or glass tie-overs, and 
cover them with the pickle we have directed for beet roots, 
or make a pickle by infusing three ounces of the curry 
powder (No. 455) for three days in a quart of vinegar by the 
side of the fire. 

Nasturtiums are excellent prepared as above. 



404 PICKLES. 

Indian or mixed Pickles — Mango or Piccalilli. — (No. 123.) 

The flavouring- ingredients of Indian pickles are a com- 
pound of curry powder, with a large proportion of mustard 
and g-arlic. 

The following will be found something- like the real mang-o 
piclde, especially if the garlic be used plentifully. To each 
gallon of the strongest vinegar put four ounces of curry 
powder (No. 455), same of flour of must-ard (some rub these 
together, with half a pint of salad oil), three of ginger bruised, 
and two of turmeric, half a pound (when skinned) of escha- 
lots slightly baked in a Dutch oven, two ounces of garlic pre- 
pared in like manner, a quarter of a pound of salt, and two 
drachms of Cayenne pepper. 

Put these ingredients into a stone jar; cover it with a 
bladder wetted with the pickle, and set it on a trivet by the 
side of the fire during three days, shaking it up three times 
a day; it will then be ready to receive gherkins, sliced 
cucumbers, sliced onions, button onions, cauliflowers, celery, 
broccoli, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and small 
green melons. The latter must be slit in the middle suffi- 
ciently to admit a marrow-spoon, with which take out all the 
seeds ; then parboil the melons in a brine that wdll bear an 
egg; dry them, and fill them with mustard-seed, and two 
cloves of garlic, and bind the melon round wath packthread. 

Large cucumbers may be prepared in like manner. 

Green peaches make the best imitation of the Indian 
mango. 

The other articles are to be separately parboiled (excepting 
the capsicums) in a brine of salt and water strong enough to 
bear an egg ; taken out and drained, and spread out, and tho- 
rouglily dried in the sun, on a stove, or before a fire, for a 
couple of days, and then put into the pickle. 

Any thing may be put into this pickle, except red cabbage 
and walnuts. 

It will keep several years. 

Obs. — To the Indian mango pickle is added a considerable 
quantity of mustard-seed oil, which would also be an excel- 
lent warm ingredient in our salad sauces. 



HOUSEKEEPERS' MAJ^UAL. 



VARIOUS USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. 

To prevent Beer becoming Flat after it is dramm. 

Put a piece of toasted bread into it, and it will preserve 
the spirit for twelve hours after, in a very considerable degree. 

To clean Plate. 

First. — Take care that your plate is quite free from grease. 

Second. — Take some Avhitening mixed with water, and a 
sponge, rub it well on the plate, which will take the tarnish 
off; if it is very bad, repeat the whitening and water several 
times, making use of a brush, not too hard, to clean the intri- 
cate parts. 

Third. — Take some rouge-powder, mix it with water to 
about the thickness of cream, and with a small piece of leather 
(which should be kept for that purpose only) apply the rouge, 
which, with the addition of a little "Elbow Grease," will, 
in a short time, produce a most beautiful polish. 

N.B. — The rouge-powder may be had at all the silver- 
smiths and jewellers. 

Obs. — The above is the actual manner in which silversmiths 
clean their plate, and was given to me by a respectable 
tradesman. 

The common Method of cleaning Plate. 

First wash it well with soap and warm water ; when per- 
fectly dry, mix together a little whitening and sweet oil, so as 
to make a soft paste ; then take a piece of flannel, rub it on 
the plate ; then with a leather, and plenty of dry whitening, 
rub it clean off again ; then, with a clean leather and a brush, 
finish it. 

Varnish forOil Paintings. 
Accordmg to the number of your pictures, take the whitei 



406 USEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. 

of the same number of eg-g-s, and an equal number of pieces 
of sugar candy, the size of a hazel nut, dissolved, and mix 
it with a tea-spoonful of brandy ; beat the whites of your 
eggs to a froth, and let it settle ; take the clear, put it to your 
brandy and sugar, mix them well together, and varnish over 
your pictures with it. 

This is much better than any other varnish, as it is easily 
washed off when your pictures want cleaning again. 

Method of cleaning Paper-Hangings, 

Cut into eight half quarters a quartern loaf, two days old ; 
it must neither be newer nor staler. With one of these pieces, 
after having blown off all the dust from the paper to be 
cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bellows, begin at the 
top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping 
lightly downward with the crumb, about half a yard] at each 
stroke, till the upper part of the hangings is completely cleaned 
all round. Then go round again, with the like sweeping 
stroke downwards, always commencinjj each successive 
course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended, till 
the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully per- 
formed, will frequently make very old paper look almost 
equal to new. 

Great caution must be used not by any means to rub the 
paper hard, nor to attempt cleaning it the cross, or horizontal 
way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must be each time cut 
away, and the pieces renewed as soon as it may become 
necessary y 

To make Wooden Stairs have the appearance of Stone. 

Paint the stairs, step by step, with white paint, mixed with 
strong drying oil. Strew it thick with silver sand. 

It^ought to be thoroughly dry next morning, when the loose 
sand is to be swept off. The painting and sanding is to be 
repeated, and when dry, the surface is to be done over with 
pipe-clay, whiting, and water; which may be boiled in an old 
saucepan, and laid on with a bit of flannel, not too thick, 
otherwise it will be apt to scale off. 

A penny cake of pipe-clay, which must be scraped, is th« 
common proportion to half a lump of whiting. 

The pipe-clay and whiting is generally, applied onci a 
week, but that might be done only as occasion requires. 



rSEFUL FAMILY KECEIPTS. 407 

French Polish. 

Take a quarter of an ounce of gum sandarac and a quar- 
ter of an ounce of gum mastic ; pick the dirt and black lumps 
out very carefully, and pound them in a mortar quite fine ; 
put them into a bottle, and add to them a quartern (old mea- 
sure) of strong spirit of wine ; cork it down and put it in a 
warm place ; shake it frequently till the gum is entirely dis- 
solved, which will be in about twenty-four hours. 

Before using it, be careful to ascertain that no grease is on 
the furniture, as grease would prevent its receiving the polish. 
If the furniture has been previously cleaned with bees'-wax 
or oil, it must be got off by scraping, which is the best way, 
but difficult to those who do not perfectly understand it, 
because if you are not very careful, you may scratch the sur- 
face, and create more expense than a workman would charge 
to do it properly at first. Or it may be done by scouring 
well with sand and water, and afterward rubbed quite smooth 
with fine glass paper, being careful to do it with the grain of 
the wood. To apply the polish, you must have a piece of 
list or cloth twisted, and tied round quite tight, and left even 
at one end, which should be covered with a piece of fine linen 
cloth ; then pour a little of the polish on the furniture, and 
rub it well all over till it is worked into the grain of the wood, 
and begins to look quite smooth ; then take a soft fine cloth, 
or what is better, an old silk handkerchief, and keep rubbing 
lightly until the polish is complete, which will take two or 
three hours. It will greatly help the polish if it is done near 
a fire. 

If it does not look so smooth and clear as it should, a little 
sweet oil nibbed lightly over, and cleaned off directly, will 
greatly heighten it. If any part of the furniture has carving 
about it, where it will be impossible to polish, it must be done 
with mastic varnish, and a camel's hair brush, after the rest 
is finished. 

When the polish begins to look dull, it may be recovered 
with a little spirit of wine. 

Polish for Dining Tables, 

Is to rub them with cold-drawn linseed oil, thus : — put a 
little in the middle of a table, and then with a piece of linen 
(never use woollen) cloth rub it well all over the table; then 
take another piece of linen, and rub it for ten minutes, 
then rub it till quite dry with another cloth. Tliis must be 
done every day for several months, when you will find your 



408 rSEFUL FAMILY RECEIPTS. 

mahogany acquire a permanent and beautiful lustre, unat- 
tainable by any other means, and equal to the finest French 
polish ; and if the table is covered with the tablecloth only, 
the hottest dishes will make no impression upon it : and when 
once this polish is produced, it will only require dry rubbing 
with a linen cloth for about ten minutes twice in a week, to 
preserve it in the highest perfection ; which never fails to 
please your employers ; and remember, that to please others 
is always the surest way to profit yourself. 

If the appearance must be more immediately produced, take 
some Furniture Paste. 

To prevent disagreeable Smells from Sinks, ^c. 

The disgustful effluvia arising from cabbage-water, and 
the various ungrateful odours which arise from the sink of 
kitchens, drains, &c., are not only an unnecessary nuisance 
to the good folks of the second table, but Ave believe such 
miasm is not an uncommon -cause of putrid fevers, &c. &c. 

It cannot be too generally known, that a cheap and simple 
apparatus has been contrived for carrying off the waste water, 
&c. from sinks, which at the same time effectually prevents 
any air returning back from thence, or from any drain con- 
nected therewith. This is known by the name of Stink Trap, 
and costs about five shillings. 

No kitchen sink should be without it. 

To prevent Moths. 

In the month of April beat your fur garments well with a 
small cane or elastic stick, then lap them up in linen without 
pressing the fur too hard, and put between the folds some 
camphor in small lumps ; then put your furs in this state in 
boxes well closed. 

When the furs are wanted for use, beat them well as before, 
and expose them for twenty-four hours to the air, which wiU 
take away the smell of the camphor. 

If the fur has long hair, as bear or fox, add to the camphor 
an equal quantity of black pepper in powder. 

Paste. 

To make common paste, mix one table-spoonful of flour 
with one of cold water, stir it well together, and add two 
more table -spoonfuls of water; set it over the fire and give 
it a boil, stirring it all the time, or it will burn at the bottom of 
the saucepan. 



( 409 ) 



OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING. 

" ♦ Have you learned to carve V for it is ridiculous not to carve well. 

" A man who tells you gravely that he cannot carve, may as well tell you that he 
cannot feed himself; it is both as necessary and as easy."— Lord Chestkrfibld's 
21Uh Letter. 

Next to giving a good dinner, is treating our friends with 
hospitality and attention, and this attention is what young 
people have to learn. Experience will teach them in time, 
but till they acquire it, they will appear ungraceful and 
awkward. 

Although the art of carving is one of the most necessary 
accomplishments of a gentleman, it is little known but to 
those who have long been accustomed to it; a more useful 
or acceptable present cannot be offered to the public than to 
lay before them a book calculated to teach the rising genera- 
tion how to acquit themselves amiably in this material part of 
the duties of the table. 

Young people seldom study this branch of the philosophy 
of the banquet, beyond the suggpstion of their own whims 
and caprices ; and cut up things not only carelessly, but 
wastefully, until they learn the pleasure of paying butchers* 
and poulterers' bills on their own account. 

Young housekeepers, unaccustomed to carving, will, with 
the help of the following instructions, soon be enabled to 
carv^e with ease and elegance ; taking care also to observe, 
as occasion may offer, the manner in which a skilful 
operator sets about his task, when a joint or fowl is placed 
before him. 

It has been said, that you may judge of a person's charac- 
ter by his handwriting; you may judge of his conscience by 
his carving. 

Fair carving is much more estimable evidence of good 
nature than fair writing : let me see how a gentleman 
carves at another person's table, especially how he helps 
himself, and I will presently tell you how far he is of Pope's 
opinion, that 

"True self-love and social are the same." 

The selfish appetites never exhibit themselves in a more 
unmasked and more disgustin<j- manner than in the use they 

M m 



410 CARVING. 

excite a man to make of his knife and fork in carving for 
himself, especially when not at his own cost. 

Seme keen observer of human nature has said, " Would 
you know a man's real disposition, ask him to dinner, and 
give him plenty to drink." 

" The Oracle" says, " invite the gentleman to dinner, cer- 
tainly, and set him to carving." The gentleman who wishes 
to ensure a hearty welcome, and frequent invitations to the 
board of hospitality, may calculate with Cockerial correct- 
ness, that " the easier he appears to be pleased, the oftener 
he will be invited." Instead of unblushingly demanding of 
the fair hostess, that the prime " tit-bit of every dish be put 
on his plate, he must receive, (if not with pleasure or even 
content,) with the liveliest expressions of thankfulness, 
whatever is presented to him; and let him not forget to- 
praise the cook (no matter whether he be pleased with hei 
performance or not), and the same shall be reckoned unto 
him even as praise to the mistress." 

" If he does not like his fare, he may console himself with 
the reflection, that he need not expose his mouth to the like 
mortification again. Mercy to the feelings of the mistress 
of the mansion, will forbid his then appearing otherwise than 
absolutely delighted with it, notwithstanding it may be his 
extreme antipathy. If he like it ever so little, he will find 
occasion to congratulate himself on the advantage his diges- 
tive organs will derive from his making a moderate dinner ; 
and consolation from contemplating the double relish he is 
creating for the following meal, and anticipating the rare and 
delicious zest of (that best sauce) good appetite, and an un- 
restrained indulgence of his gourmandizing fancies at the 
chop-house he frequents." 

The following extract from that rare book, Giles Rose's 
School for the Officers of the JMouth, 16mo. 1684, shows ithat 
the art of carving was a much more elaborate affair formerly 
than it is at present. 

Le grand escuyer tranchant, or the Great Master Carver. 

" The exercise of a master carver is more noble and com- 
mendable, it may be, than every one will imagine ; for sup- 
pose that life to be the foundation of all that is done in the 
world, this life is not to be sustained without maintaining our 
natural heat by eating and drinking." 

Never trust a cook teaser with the important office of 
carver, or place him within reach of any principal dish. I 
shall never forget the following exhibition of a selfish spoiled 
child : the first dish that Master Johnny mangled, was three 
mackerel; he cut off the upper side of each fish: next came 



CARVING. 411 

a couple of fowls; in taking- off the wings of which the 
young gentleman so hideously hacked and miserably mangled 
every other part, that when they were brought for luncheon 
the following day, they appeared as if just removed from a 
conclave of dainty cats, rather than having been carved 
by a rational creature. When the master of the family, 
who was extremely near-sighted, sat down to his nooning, 
m expectation of enjoying the agreeable amusement of 
having a 

" Nice bit of chicken 
For tiis own private picking, 

no sooner had he put on his specs, and begun to focus his 
fowl, than he suddenly started up, rang for the cook, and 
after having vociferated at her carelessness, and lectured her 
for being so extremely perfunctory and disorderly in not 
keeping the cat out of the cupboard, till his appetite for 
scolding was pretty well satisfied, he paused for her apology: 
the guardian genius of the pantry, to his extreme astonish- 
ment, informed him, that his suspicions concerning the 
hideous appearance which had so shocked him, was erro- 
neous : such unsightly havoc was not occasioned by the 
epicurism of a ^owr-legged brute, and that the fowls were 
exactly in the same state they came from the table, and that 
young Master Johnny had cut them up himself. 

Those in the parlour should recollect the importance of 
setting a good example to their friends at the second table. 
If they cut bread, meat, cheese, &c. fairly, it will go twice as 
far as if hacked and mangled by some sensualists, who appear 
to have less consideration for their domestics than a good 
sportsman for his dogs. 

A prudent carver will distribute the dainties he is serving 
out in equal division, and regulate his helps by the proportion 
his dish bears to the number it is to be divided among, and 
considering the quantum of appetite the several guests are 
presumed to possess. 

If you have a bird, or other delicacy at table, which cannot 
be apportioned out to all as you wish, when cut up, let it be 
handed round by a servant ; modesty will then prompt the 
guests to take but a small portion, and such as perhaps could 
not be offered to them without disrespect. 

Those chop-house cormorants who 

" Critique your wine, and analyze yonr meat, 
Yet on plain pudding deigii at home to eat," 

are generally tremendously officious in serving out the loaves 



412 CARVING. 

and fishes of other people ; for, under the notion of appearing 
exquisitely amiable, and killingly agreeable to the guests, 
they are ever on the watch to distribute themselves the 
dainties* which it is the peculiar part of the master and mis- 
tress to serve out, and is to them the most pleasant part of 
the business of the boiiquet ; the pleasure of helping their 
friends is the gratification which is their reward for the trouble 
they have had in preparing the feast : such gentry are the 
terror of all good housewives ; to obtain their favourite cut 
they will so unmercifully mangle your joints, that a lady's 
dainty lapdog would hardly get a meal from them afterward ; 
but which, if managed by the considerative hands of an old 
housekeeper, would furnish a decent dinner for a large family. 

The man of manners picks not the best, but rather takes 
the w^orst out of the dish, and gets of every thing (unless it 
be forced upon him) always the most indifferent fare by this 
civility, the best remains for others ; which being a compli- 
ment to all that are present, eveiy body will be pleased with 
it ; the more they love themselves, the more they are forced 
to approve of his behaviour, and gratitude stepping in, they 
are obliged, almost whether they will or not, to think favoura- 
bly of him. 

After this manner it is that the well-bred man insinuates 
himself in the esteem of all the companies he comes in; and 
if he gets nothing else by it, the pleasure he receives in re- 
flecting on the applause which he knows is secretly given him, 
is to a proud man more than equivalent for his former self- 
denial, and overpays self-love, with interest, the loss it sus- 
tained in his complaisance to others. 

If there are seven or eight apples, or peaches, among peo- 
ple of ceremony, that are pretty nearly equal, he who is pre- 
vailed on to choose first, will take that which, if there be any 
considerable difference, a child would know to be the worst. 

This he does to insinuate, that he looks upon those he is 
with to be of superior merit ; and that there is not one whom 
he does not love better than himself. Custom and general 
practice make this mi?dish deceit familiar to us, without being 
shocked at the absurdity of it. 

" If people had been used to speak from the sincerity of 
their hearts, and act according to the natural sentiments they 
felt within, till they were three or four and forty, it would be 
impossible for them to assist at this comedy of manners 
without either loud laughter or indigestion ; and yet it is cer- 

* He who greedily grapples for the prime parts, exhibits indubitable evidence 
Uuu he came for tliat purpose. 



CARVING. 



413 



tain, that such a behaviour makes us more tolerable to one 
another, than we could be otherwise." 

The master or mistress of the table should appear to con- 
tinue eating' as long- as any of the company ; and should, ac- 
cordingly, help themselves in a way that will enable them to 
give this specunen of good manners without being particu- 
larly observed. 

" It belongs to the master and mistress, and to no one else, 
to desire their guests to eat, and, indeed, carving belongs to 
nobody but the master and mistress, and those whom they 
think fit to desire, who are to deliver what they cut to the mas- 
ter or mistress, to be by them distributed at their pleasure." 

A seat should be placed for the carver sufficiently elevated 
to give him a command of tiie table, as the act of rising to 
perform this duty is considered ungraceful. 

The carving-knife should be light and sharp ; and it should 
be firmly grasped; although in using it, strength is not as 
essential as skill, particularly if the butcher has properly 
divided the bones of such joints as the neck, loin, and breast 
of veal or of mutton. 

The disn should not be far from the carver ; for when it is 
too distant, by occasioning the arms to be too much extended, 
it gives an awkward appearance to the person, and renders 
the task more difficult. 

In carving fish, care should be taken not to break the flakes, 
and this is best avoided by tlie use of a fish trowel, which not 
being sharp, divides it better than a steel knife. Examine 
this little drawing, and you will see how a cod's head and 
shoulders should be carved. The head and shoulders of a cod 
contain the richest and best part of this excellent fish. 



Fig.l, 




M m 2 



414 



CARVING. 



The first piece may be taken off in the direction of a b, 
by putting in the trowel at the back or thick part of the fish, 
and the rest in successive order. A small part of the sound 
should be given with each slice, and will be found close to 
the back-bone, by raising the thin flap d. It is known by 
being darker coloured and more transparent than the other 
parts of the fish. Almost every part of a cod's head is con- 
sidered good; the palate, the tongue, the jelly, and firm parts, 
e e, upon and immediately around the jaw and bones of the 
head, are considered as delicate eating by many persons. 
A boiled fowl has the legs bent inward {see Jig. 2), and 

fastened to the sides by a 
Fig. 2. skewer, which is removed be- 

fore the fowl is sent to table. 
A roasted fowl should not have 
any part of the legs cut ofi", as 
in the boiled fowl; but after 
they have been properly 
scraped and washed, they are 
drawn together d the very 
extremity of the breast. A 
boiled and a roasted fowl are 
each carved in the same man- 
ner. The wings are taken off in 
the direction of a to 5 (Jig. 2). 
Your knife must divide the joint, but afterward you have 
only to take firm hold of the pinion with your fork, draw 
the wings towards the legs, and you will find that the muscles 
separate better than if you cut them with your knife. Slip 
your knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone, 
then with the fork turn the leg back, and, if the fowl be not 
a very old one, the joints will- give way. 
After the four quarters are thus removed, enter the knife at 

the breast, in the direction c d 
Fig. 3. Cjig 3), and you will separate 

the merrythought from the 
breast-bone; and by placing 
your knife under it, lift it up^ 
pressing it backward on the 
dish, and you will easily re- 
move that bone. The collar- 
bones, € e, lie on each side the 
merrythought, and are to be 
lifted up at the broad end, by 
the knife, and forced towards the breast-bone, till the part 
which is fastened to it breaks off. The breast is next to be 





CARVING. 



415 



Fig. 4. 




separated from the carcass, by cutting through the ribs on 
each side, from one end of the fowl to the other. The back 
is then laid upward, and the knife 
passed firmly across it, near the middle, 
while the fork lifts up the other end. The 
side bone are lastly to be separated ; to 
do which turn the back from you, and on 
each side the back-bone, in the direction 
ofggijig. 4), you will find a joint, which 
you must separate, and the cutting up of 
of the fowl will be complete. 
Ducks and partridges are to be cut up in the same manner; 
in the latter, however, the merrythought is seldom separated 
from the breast, unless the birds are very large. 

Turkeys and geese have slices cut on each side of the 
breast-bone, and by beginning to cut from the wing upwards 
to the breast-bone, many more slices may be obtained than if 
you cut from the breast-bone to the wings, although I do not 
think the slices are quite as handsome as if cut in the latter 
method. 
Fig. 6. 

^^ 
^^^ Pigeons {see Jig. 6) are either cut from 

(' the neck to a, which is the fairest way, or 
from b to c, which is now the most fashiona- 
ble mode ; and the lower part is esteemed 
the best. 



There are two ways of carving a hare. When it is young, 
the kiiife may be entered near the shoulder at a {seejig. 7), 

Fig. 7. 





416 



CARVING 



and cut down to h, on each side of the backbone ; and thus 
the hare will be divided into three parts. The back is to be 
again divided into four parts, where the dotted lines are in 
the cut : these and the legs are considered the best parts, 
though the shoulders are preferred by some, and are to be 
taken off in the direction of c cZ e. The pieces should be laid 
neatly on the plates, as they are separated, and each plate 
served with stuffing and gravy. When the hare' is old, it is 
better not to attempt the division down the back, which 
would require much strength ; but the legs should be sepa- 
rated from the body dXf, and then the meat cut off from each 
side, and divided into moderate sized pieces. Tf the brains 
and ears are required, cut off the head, and put your knife 
between the upper and lower jaw, and divide them, which 
will enable you to lay the upper jaw flat on the dish: then 
force the point of your knife into the centre, and having cut 
the head into two parts, distribute the brains with the ears to 
those who like them. 

Rabbits are carved in the same manner as a hare, except 
that the back is divided only into two pieces, which, with 
the legs, are considered the most delicate parts. 

A ham is generally cut in the direction of a to h, {Jig. 8) 




down to the bone, and through the prime part of the ham. 
Another way is to cut a small hole at c, and to enlarge it by 
cutting circular pieces out of it ; this method brings you to 
the best part of the ham directly, and has an advantage over 
the other in keeping in the gravy. 

A leg of mutton is more easily carved than any other joint, 
but nevertheless there is a mode of doing it neatly, which 
should be observed. The first slice should be taken out at 
« ifiS' 9) J between the knuckle 6 and the thick end ; and the 



CAKVING. 



417 




second and subsequent slices should be cut in this direction, 
until you are stopped by the cramp-bone at c ; then turn it 
up, and take the remaining- slices from the back, in a long-i- 
tudinal direction. When the leg is rather lean, help some 
fat from the broad end v/ith each slice. The best and most 
juicy slices are toward the broad end: but some persons 
prefer the knuckle : and where economy is an object, the 
knuckle should always be eaten when the joint is hot, as it 
becomes very dry when cold. If the joint is to be brought 
again to table, it has a much neater and more respectable 
appearance if it be helped, altogether, from the knuckle end, 
when it is hot. This direction may appear trifling ; but a 
good economist knows the importance of carving, when the 
circumstances of a family require that a joint be brought a 
second time to table. 
A haunch of venison {fig. 10) should be cut down to the 

Fig. 10. 




416 



CARVING. 



bone in the direction of the line a b c,hy which means the 
gravy is allowed to flow out : then the carver, turning the 
broad end of the haunch toward him, should cut in deep 
from b to d. He then cuts thin slices in the same direction, 
taking care to give to each person whom he helps a due pro- 
oortion of fat, which is, by lovers of venison, highly prized : 
ihere is generally more of this delicacy on the left side of 
h d than on the other side. 

A haunch of mutton is carved in the same manner as 
venison. 

A saddle of mutton [Jig- 11) is cut from the tail to the 

Fig. 11. 




end on eacli side the back-bone, in the direction of the lines 
a b, continuing downward to the edge c, until it become too 
fat. The slices should be cut thin, and if the joint be a large 
one, they may be divided into two parts. The fat will be 
found on the sides. 

A sucking pig is cut up before it is sent to table. The 
rips may be divided into two parts as Avell as t\re joints. The 
ribs are considered the finest part, and the neck end under 
the shoulder. Part of the kidneys should be added to each 
helping. 

A shoulder of mutton, if properly roasted, is supposed to 
yield many choice pieces, but this depends very much upgn 
the carver. The first cut should be in the direction c b {Jig- 
12) ; and, after taking a few slices on each side of the gap 



CARVING. 



419 



Fig. 12. 




which follows the first cut, some gfood slices may be obtained 
on each side of the ridge of the shoulder blade, in the direc- 
tion c d. When the party is numerous, slices may be taken 
from the under side ; and it is on this side, under the edge c, 
that the fat is found.* 

Buttock of Beef 

Is always boiled, and requires no print to point out how it 
should be carved. A thick slice should be cut off all round 
the buttock, that your friends may be helped to the juicy and 
prime part of it. The outside thus cut off, thin slices may 
then be cut from the top ; but as it is a dish that is frequently 
brought to table cold a second day, it should always be cut 
handsome and even. When a slice all round would be con- 
sidered too much, the half, or a third, may be given with a 
thin slice of fat. On one side there is a part whiter than 
ordinary, by some called the white muscle. In some places, 
a buttock is generallv divided, and this white part sold sepa- 
rate, as a delicacy; but it is by no means so, the meat being 
coarse and dry; whereas the darker-coloured parts, though 
apparently of a coarser grain, are of a looser texture, more 
tender, fuller of gravy, and better flavoured ; and men of 
distinguishing Tpalates ever prefer them. 

* Another wav of carving a shoulder of mutton, and one which many persona 
prefer, is in sliced from the knuckle to the broad end of the shoulder beg\miing ou 
tlie outside. See the lines / and g. 



INDEX. 



The Figures in the body of the Index refer to the Number of the Receipts ; those in 
the column, under the word Page, to where the Receipts are to be found ; and 
those preceded by Ap., to the Receipts in the Appendix. 



Page 

Acid of lemon, artificial, 407* 274 

Accum on Adulterations, quoted, 

note to 433 280 

An alderman in chains, 57 135 

A la-mode beef, or veal, or English 

turtle, 502 312 

Allspice, essence of, 412 275 

tincture of, 413 ib. 

Sir H. Sloane on, note 92 

Almond custards ( Ap. 54.) 375 

Anchovy sauce, 270 232 

essence, 433 2*79 

toast, 573 :'54 

butter, > 434 282 

paste, j 

powder, 435 ib. 

to keep them well, Obs. to 



270. 



Apicius,his sauce for boiled chicken 
Appetite, good, why the best sauce 

to refresh 

Appert, his art of preserving vegeta- 
bles, note 

Apple pie ( Ap. 32.) 

pudding, boiled (Ap. 112.) . . . 

dumphngs, ditto (Ap. 113.) . . 

tart, creamed (Ap. 33) 

• sauce, 304. 



Apples, to dry (Ap. 83.) 

Apricot jam ( Ap. 93.) 

Artichokes, 136 

Jerusalem, 117. 

Asparagus, 123 

— soup, 222. 



Arrack, to imitate, 480 

Arbuthnot, Dr., quoted, Preface. 
Abernethy, Mr., quoted, note... . 



233 
35 

52 

38 

164 
369 
397 

ib. 
369 
242 
384 
^^7 
166 
160 
161 
206 
299 
viii. 

20 



Bacon,13 117 

slices of, 526 .... 324 

relishing rashers of, 527 ib. 

sparerib, to roast 1"2 

Bain-Marie, noteto485 and 529* :i04. 326 

Baking 72 

Baked custard (Ap. 52.) 375 

peara (Ap. 82.) 384 



N 



Page 

Barley water, 565 350 

broth, 204 199 

to make a gallon for a 

groat 210 

sugar (Ap.90.) 386 

drops (Ap. 91.) ib. 

Basil, when to dry 291 

vinegar, or wine, 397 269 

sauce, 2S4 231 

Batter pudding (A p. 111.) 397 

Beans, French, 133 164 

Beauty 51 

Bechamel, 364 257 

Beef bouini,5.238. 493 109.212. 308 

how nutritive and economical, 5 109 

to salt, 6 Ill 

savoury, 496 310 

a round of, salted, to boil, 7. . . 113 

what the outside slices are good 

for, N.B. to 7 ib. 

H- Bone, 8 ib. 

ribs, and rolled, 9 114 

baron of 34 

cirloiu, roasted, 19 122 

proper way to carve, in note 

to 19 123 

as mock hare, 66* 141 

ribs, roasted, 20 123 

ditto, boned and rolled, 21 124 

steaks, to fry, 85 148 

steak pudding (Ap. 24.) 367 

season for, see note to 94 151 

with onions, 86 143 

to broil, 94 151 

the superlative steak ib. 

Macbeth's receipt, and le ve- 
ritable bif-teck de Beauvilliers, 

N.B. to91 152 

to stew, 500 311 

with onion gravy, 501 312 

broth, 185 193 

broth for glaze, or portable 

soup or sauce, 252 223 

gravy, 186 194 

strong gravy, 188 ib. 

cullis, 189 195 

n 



422 



INDEX. 



Pa?e 

Beef, for poultry, &c. 329 249 

shin of, sou J), 193 lyb 

a tea, 563 34'J 

toliai^h,486 304 

shin, btewod, 493 308 

brisket, stew wl, 494 310 

haricot, 495 il). 

Hunter's savoury, baked or 

stewed, 496 ib. 

A-la-iriode, or E^^lish turtle, 502 31'2 

to pot, 503 .^ 314 

bubble and sijueak, 505 316 

hashed, and bmies broiled, 506 317 

cold, broiled, &c. 487 304 

Beer, to recover when hard, 468 295 

to bottle, 408 ib. 

cup, 464 294 

Be«t roots, 127 102 

to pickle (Ap. 119) 402 

Biscuit drops (A p. 68.) 380 

Bishop, essence 01,412 275 

Birch, his excellent mock turtle, note 

under247 219 

Black cock, 71 144 

Blancmange ( Ap. 46.) 373 

Boiling <>() 

Boiled custard (A p. 53.) 375 

Bouillon de sant6, 196 197 

Bonne bouche for geese, pork, &.c. 

341 251 

Brandy, how to obtain genuine Cog- 
nac. 296 

Bread, to make (Ap 100.) 390 

sauce, 321 246 

sippets, tVird, 3 19 ib. 

crumbs, do. 320 ib. 

puddinsr, 55 5 344 

Broccoli, 126..': 1C2 

pickled, ( Ap. 122.) 403 

Bride, or wedding cake (Ap. 56.) . . . .376 

Brill,143 169 

Brains are sadly dependent on the 

bowels 20 

Dr. Cadogaii's obs. thereon, 

note 21 

Brain balls * 266 

Broiling, see the 4lh chapter of 

Rudiments of Cookery 82 

Brose, Scotch, 205.* 201 

Brunswick tourte (Ap. 45.) 373 

Broth, see the 7ih chapter of the 

Rudiments of Cookery 89 

black 35 

of fragments 54 

beef, 185 193 

to clarify, 252* 227 

mutton, 194 196 

mock ditto, 195 197 

vvitlicntleis, 490 307 

Scotch barley, 204 199 

for sick, .5!i4 350 

Browniu'i, to colour soup and sauce, 

&C.322 246 

Bill of fare for a week 56 



Pags 

Buns, plain (Ap.77.) 38^ 

cross (A p. 78.) 383 

seed (Ap.79.) lb. 

pl;ini(Ap.80.) ib. 

Baih(Ap.65.) 379 

Burnet vinegar has tlie same taste 

ascucuml)er, 399 270 

sauce, 264 231 

Burgoo, Scotch, 572* 353 

Butler's directions for drying herbs, 

461 ."• 290 

-to market for ve- 
getables 359 

Butler, Obs. on the business of a 

note 39 

BuTTKR, best maimer of melting.. . 223 

to recover when oiled 229 

cladtied, 259 230 

burnt, 260 ib. 

oiled, 260* ib. 

Catholic Families, cookery for, 
158.224 178.207 

Cabbage, 118 160 

boiled and fried, or bubble 

and squeak, 119. 505 160. 316 

Cakes, coianion seed (.Ap. 59.) 377 

rich, yest(Ap.60.) 378 

qiie.en, or heart (Ap 61.).... ib. 

Shrewsbury (A p. 63.) ib. 

Banbury (Ap. 64.) 379 

Savoy, or spo:ige (Ap. 67.).. 380 

Ra.aiia ( Ap. 71.) 381 

almond sponue (A p. 72.).... ib. 

diet bread (Ap.74.) ib. 

De.by, or short (Ap.87.)... . 385 

Yo: kshire (Ap. 104.) 391 

Calf a fatted, preferred to a starved 

turtle, 247 221 

's head to boil, 10 114 

toliash, 10 115 

ragout, 520 321 

mock turtle, 247 219 

feet jellv, 481 299 

Camp vinegar, 403 271 

Carp, stewed, 158 177 

Carrots, 129 163 

soup, 212 201 

Carving, best rule for 43 

ancient terms of, note — . ib. 

Catsup of nuislirooms, 439 283 

double ditto, or don-sup 284 

of walnuts, 433.. . .^ 282 

of oysters, 441 285 

of cockles, 442 ib. 

of cucumbers, 399 270 

piidilini', 446 285 

Caper sauce, 274 233 

mock, 275 ib. 

Capon, to roa.^t, 58 136 

Capillaire, 476 297 

Caramel, to boil sugar to, (Ap.85.) 385 

Caulirtower, 125 162 

picldcd (App. 122.), . . 403 



INDEX. 



423 



Caudle, 572 

Cautions to carvers ^ . 

Cayenne, liow lo make, 404. 
essence of, 405 



Page 
353 
44 
272 
273 
202 
238 



Cliantillj' basket (Ap. 51.). 

Cheap soup, 229 

Cheese and toast, 538,* 539 

toasted, 5^0 

buttered ditto, 541 

poundt'd or potted, 542 

Cheesecakes (,Ap. 40.) 

leiiioii, ditto (Ap. 41.) 

oraniie, ditto (Ap. 42.) 



Celery soup, 214 

sauce, 289, 2ii0 

seed, suDstitute for celery, 

note 92 

essence, 409 2"5 

375 

20d 

330 

331 

ib. 

ib. 

371 

372 

ib. 

ib. 

387 

231 

273 

ib. 

304 

3G8 

151 

148 
307 
278 
2.55 
276 

ib. 

95 
297 
227 
27fi 

ib. 
285 
172 

ib. 
174 
177 

175 

304 
54 



almond, ditto (A p. 43.) 

Cherries, dried (A p. 95.) 

Chervil sauce, 2(i4 

Chili vinegar, 405* 

wine, 406 

Chicken. See Fowl. 

pie (A p. 16.) 

and ham patties (Ap. 29.) 

Chops, mutton, pork, beef, to broil, 

94 

to fry, 85 

tosl<;\v,490 

relish ^ >t, 423 

sauce foi, 356 

Cinnamon, essence of, 416 

— ■ — tincture of, 416* 



Claret, best wine for sauces, &c 

Clarified s vrup, 475 

Clarify broth, to, 252* 

Clove and mace, essence of, 414 

tincture of, 415... . 

Cockle catchup, 442 

Cod, boiled, 149 

the tail fiUetted, note under 149 

slices boiled, 151 

skull stewed, 158 

shaved, and sold for whitings, 

Obs. to 153 

Cold meat, to broil with poached 
eggs, 487 

ditto, to warm, the best way.. . 

fi=h 

sauce for, 453. 359, and 307 

287. 255. 

veal, an excellent dish of, 512. . 

fowl, ditto, 533 

Colouring for soup and sauce, .322. . 

— "- a frequent cause of adul- 
teration, 322 

Committee of taste 

Consomm^, 252 

Coffee, to make 

Cooks, friendly advice to. ... - 

hints to 

ditto, when they have a.very 



large dinner. 



243 
319 
328 
246 

247 

17 

223 

340 

46 

53 

62 



Page 
Cooks, cause of the scarcity of good 

ones 310 

deserve good wages 23 

a manor given to one by 

William the (,'oiiqueror 22 

Obs. concerning their health, 

note 26 

Cook-teaser, where not to put him 44 
Cooking animals, dine only once a 

month, note 17 

Cookery, Descartes's observations 

on 19 

Dr. Johnson's ditto 20 

theoiy of, note ib. 

importance of 21 

Dr. Stark vii. 

the analeptic part of phasic 19 

Dr. Mandeville viii. 

Arbuthnol ib. 

Parmentier x. 

Sylvester's Obs. on, note. . 20 

best books on, note ib. 

theory of the processes of, 

from the Encyclofia.'dia Brit, note ib. 

opinion of a cook on books 

of 32 

Coquus Magnus, or Master Kitch- 
ener 22 

Coullis, or thickened gravy, 189 195 

Coup (Tapris 94 

Crab, to boil, 177 183 

Crawtish sou[), 235 211 

ditto, pomided alive, re- 
commended by Mons. Clermont, 

235 ib. 

Cream, clouted, 388 267 

Cranberry tart (A(i. .37.) 370 

Croqnante of paste (Ap.86.) 385 

Cotiaiie potato pudding (Ap. 115.)... 398 

Crisp parsley, 318 ". 215 

Currant jelly, 479* 298 

Curry powder, 455 287 

^soup,249 222 

sauce, 348 254 

balls, 382 256 

to dress, 497 31 1 

Curacoa, how to make, 474 296 

Custard pudding 347 

Cider cup, 465 294 

Culinary curiosities 32 

Crane 34 

Curlews ib. 

Cat in gely ib. 

Corks 106 

Cement for sealing bottles ib. 

Caw-caw bones, N.B.I 108 

Cow heel, to dress, 18* 122 

Cress sauce,264 231 

vinegar, 397* 269 

Cucumber, stewed, 135 165 , 

vinegar, 399 270 

to preserve (Ap. 98.) 389 

Carp, to stew, 158 •. 177 

Charity, the greatest 24 



424 



INDEX. 



Page 

Crumpets (Ap. 103.) 3yj 

Devil, 538 329 

his venison 33 

sauce tor 255 

biscuit, 574 354 

Damson ciieese ( Ap. 89.) 386 

Digestion, how important 19 

Dripping pan 76 

Dripping, to clarity, 83 146 

Mrs. Melroe and Dr. Starli's 

Obs. on, 83 147 

soup 210 

Duck, to roast, 61 139 

bonne bouche for, 341 251 

to hash, 530 326 

cold, to warm, 535 329 

wild, to roast, 74 144 

Dutch salad, Obs. to 372 260 

Dinner, seven chances against its 

being properly dressed, note 22 

hints for preparing a large, p. 

C2, 63 ; a good one for 5d., 204.. . . 199 

invitation to 36 

iniportancp of punctuality, the 

only act which cannot be post- 
poned 37 

arrangements of guests at. . . . 40 

rules for behaviour at, from 

the Accomplished Lady's Delight, 

note .'• • 29 

hints for providing 38 

Obs. on second courses, &c.. . ib. 

punishment for not being 

punctual at 42 

Boileau's Obs. on ib. 

Hints to those who dine out. • 44 

Edge bone of beef, see H-bone, 8. . . 113 

ways of spell j ng 114 

Education of a cook's tongue 52 

Eels, stewed, Wiggy's way, 164 181 

pickled, 161 180 

fried, 165 182 

pie(Ap.22.) 366 

spitchocked, 166 182 

soup, 225 207 

Eggs, to preserve for twelve months, 

see N.B. to 547 338 

sauce, 267 232 

fried with bacon, 545 336 

ragoOt, 545* 337 

with minced bacon, 549 339 

poached, 546 337 

ditto, with minced ham, 548.. • 338 

boiled in the shell, ,547 ib. 

ditto, for a salad, 372 260 

various ways of dressing egg 

and ham patties (Ap. 88.) 386 

Epictetns, a relish for, 27 125 

Eschalot sauce 204 2^9 

vinegar, 401 271 

wine, 402 ib 

Essence of turtle, 343 202 



Essence of ham, 351 254 

where to buy it, 351 ib. 

of mushrooms, 440 285 

of oysters, 441 ib 

of anchovy, 433 280 

of Cayenne, 405 273 

lemon peel, 407 ib. 

ditto, 408 274 

of celery, 409 275 

ginger, 411 ib, 

allspice, 412: ib. 

clove, 414 276 

mace, 414 ib. 

cinnamon, 416 ib. 

marjoram, 417 277 

sweet herbs, 417* ib. 

soup herbs, 420 ib. 

eschalot, 402 271 

soup herbs and savoury 

spice, 422 277 

Epicure, the editor's definition of, 

note .' 1/ 

the temperate man the 

greatest , . 19 

Economy, the first rule of comfort- 
able, note €1 

Fawn, 65 140 

Fennel and butter for mackerel, 265 231 
Fish, see the 6tli chapter of the 

Rudiments of Cookery 80 

cold, to redress 53 

fecundity of, note 86 

how to market for. 35S 

to stew, 158 177 

soups, 225 207 

forcemeat, 383 266 

sauce, 425 278 

to pickle, 161 180 

Forcemeat, to make, 373 262 

— materials used for 263 

for veal, 375 264 

for turkey, 377 265 

for goose, 378 ib. 

for hare, 379 ib. 

■ balls, for mock turtle and 

made dishes, 380 ib. 

eggditto,381 266 

curry ditto, 382 ib. 

zest, &C.386 ib 

of fish for maigre dishes, 

383 ib. 

to mix orange and lemon 

peel,387 ib. 

Flip, 466 294 

Flounders, 155 175 

Fowls, to boil one half and roast the 

other at the same time 33 

to boil, 16 119 

to roast, 58 136 

to broil, 97 154 

hashed, 533 328 

pulled, 534 ib. 

to dress cold, 535 329 



INDEX. 



425 



Fowls, A picius's sauce for 

French beans, 133 

pickled (Ap. 118.)- 



35.). 



tart of preserved fruit (Ap. 



— bread and rolls (Ap. 100*).. . 

Frotli roast meat, to 

Frogges, fried 

Fare, bill of, for a week 

Frying 

Flavour, agents employed to soups 

and sauces, note under 

Flounders, fried or boiled, 155 

Fritters, 553 

Fruit, to preserve, without sugar 

(Ap.99.) 

Game, to render immediately ripe 

for roasting 

soup, 242 

Garlic vinegar, 400 

sauce, 273 

gravy, 311 



Page 

35 

164 

402 

370 
390 
78 
34 
56 
SO 

104 
175 
344 

390 



Giblets, stewed, 531 

soup, 244 

pie (Ap. 14.) 

Gherkins ( Ap. 117.) 

Gigot de Sept Heur s, N. B. to 1. 

Ginger, essence of, 411 

preserved { A p. 97.) 



Gingerbread nuts (Ap. 76.) 

Goose, Dr. Stark says is the most 
nutritive food 

to roast, 59 

ditto, alive 

■ to persuade one to roast him- 
self ! : 

how the liver is fattened for 

the Strashurc pies. In note to 59 

tohash^530 

green, 60 

mock, 51 

bonne bouche for, 341 

relish for, 341 



Gourds, various ways of dressing. . 

Gourmand defined, note 

Gourmandize, to guard against, 

note 

Gooseberry sauce, 263 

Gravy, read the 8th cliapter of the 

Rudiments of Cookery 

for poultrv, ragouts, &c., 

329 '. 

onion, 299 

garlic, 311 

game, 337 

for wild duck, 338 

roasted meat, 326 

boiled, 327 

wow wow for salted or 

Btewed beef, 328 

for grills and broils, &;c., 355 

for chops and steaks, 356. . . 

relish for chops and steaks,423 

Nn 2 



58 
216 
270 
233 
244 
328 
216 
363 
402 
108 
275 
389 
382 

138 

137 

33 

ib. 

137 
326 
138 
131 
251 

ib. 
348 

17 

24 
231 

100 

249 
241 
244 
251 
ib. 
248 
249 

249 
254 
255 

278 



Gravy, for cold meat or poultr}', &c. , 

359 

hashes of mutton, &c., 360.. 

ditto, veal, 361 

for venison, of wine, 344. . . . 

of vinegar, 345 

— for venison, of currant jellv, 

346 ;. 

of mutton, 347 

-^ brown colouring for, 322 

portable, 252 

soup, 200 

vegetable, ditto, 224 

Green pease, 134 

soup, 216 

maigre, ditto, 217. 



Green gages, preserved in syrup 
(Ap.96.) 

Grill sauce, 355 

G rouse, 73 

Gruel, water, various ways of 
making and flavouring, 572 

Guinea fowl, 69* ". 

Glasse, Mrs., her Cookery 

Gridiron ■ 



Haddock, 157 

Findhorn, ditto, 1.57*. 

Haggis, a good Scotch, 488* — 
Ham, to boil, 14 

to pot, 509 



- slices of broiled, 526. .. . 

- essence of, 351 

where to buy, ditto, 351 . 



Hare, roast, 66 

jugged, 529* 

soup, 241 

mock, 66*.. 

hashed, 529 . 

pie (Ap. 11.) 



Haricot of mutton, lamb, veal, or 

beef, 489 

of beef, 495, 



Hashes, mutton, 484 

to warm up, 485 

beef, 486 

veal, 511 

venison, 528 

cold calf's head, 519 

ditto, 10 

calf's head or ragout, 520. . . 

hare, 529 .'. 

duck or goose, 530 

poultry, game, or rabbit, 533 

sauce for, 360 



Haunch (see H.) bone of beef, 8... 
Herbs, when, and how to dry, 461. 

Herrings, pickled, 171 

broiled, 171* 

red ditto, 172. 



Horseradish powder, 458*. 

vinegar, 399*. 

Housekeeping, plan of 

book 



Pag, 

255 
256 
257 
253 
ib. 

ib 

ib. 

246 

003 

198 
207 
164 
203 
ib. 

388 
254 
144 

352 

143 

20 

82 

176 
ib. 
305 
118 
318 
324 
354 
ib. 
140 
325 
215 
141 
325 
362 

306 
310 
303 
304 

ib. 
318 
325 
321 
114 
321 
323 
326 
328 
256 
113 
290 
185 

ib. 
186 
289 
270 

27 

ib. 



426 



INDEX. 



Page 

Horse powdered 34 

HiJl, Dr., author of Mrs. Glasse's 

Cookery 20 

Hanger, Col., quoted, his hints for 

guarding against "la Gounuan- 

dize," note 23 

Hudson, the dwarf, served up in a 

pie 34 

Icing for fruit tarts, &c. (Ap.ol.). .. 369 

for twelfth cake (A p. 8-1.) 384 

Indigestion 38 

lozenges for, note ib. 

remedy for 39 

Invitations, how to send 41 

■ to answer ib. 

Indian or mixed pickle ( Ap. 123.) . . 404 

Independence, the road to 64 

Italian salad, see Obs. to 372 260 

cream (Ap. 48.) 374 

macaroons ( Ap. 70.) 380 

Irish stew, Mrs Pliillips's, 488 305 

ditto, Mr. Morrison's, 488 ib. 

Jack, to dress, 158 177 

Jacks, Obs. on 74 

Jelly, ox heel, 198 197 

calf's feet, 481 299 

of currants and other fruits, 

479* 298 

Jerusalem artichokes, 117 160 

Jockey, how to waste. 190 

Johnson's brandy and liqueurs, 471 296 

Johnson, Dr., quoted 20 

Kay, Mr., of Albion House, wines, 

&c., Obs. to 94 243 

Kelly's sauce foi calf head or cow 

heel,311* 244 

■ ditto, for sauce piguante, 

311* ib. 

Kid, to roast, 65* 140 

Kidneys, to broil, 95 153 

Kitchen maid, business of a 25 

Kitchen fire place, best ornaments 

for 64 

- chimney should be swept 

often 54 

utensils 89 

Kitchiner, Dr., quoted, note, 572. . • 30 

Life, the art of invigorating 

AND PROLONCUNG Vii. 

Lacedaemon, black broth of 35 

. ditto sauce ib. 

Lamb, to broil, 3 109 

toroast,40 129 

sham lamb, ditto, 40 ib. 

hind quarter, 41 ib. 

fore quarter, 42 130 

—leg, 43 ib. 

shoulder, 44 ib. 

to goosify, ditto, note to 51. . 131 

.«-' ribs, 45 130 



Pngo 

Lamb, loin, 46 130 

neck, 47 ib. 

breast, 48 ib. 

chops, 93 150 

shoulder, grilled, 491 307 

lamb's fry, 492 308 

Larders, proper, note 57 

Laiks, 80 146 

Lemon chips (.'\p.94.) 387 

syrup, 391 267 

sauce, 2':3 233 

juice, artificial, 407* 274 

Lemon and Uver sauce, 287 237 

peel essence, 407 273 

quintessence ditto, 408 274 

tincture ditto, 408* ib. 

Lemonade in a minute, 477 297 

Liquamen cf the Romans 35 

L,iqueurs, 471 296 

Lister, Mrs., leg of beef soup. See 

shin of beef soup. 
Li ver of a goose. See note under 59 137 

and paisley sauce, 287 237 

ditto for fish, 288 238 

Lobster, to roast, 82 146 

to boil, 176 187 

sauce, 284 236 

sauce for lobster, 285 237 

soup,237 211 

potted, 178 183 

patties (Ap. 27.) 36S 

salad, 372 260 

spawn, to preserve, N.B. 

to 284 238 

Lozenges 38 

Macaroni, 543 332 

soup, see Obs. to 200 198 

Mackerel, boiled, 167 183 

broiled, 169 184 

baked,170 ib. 

pickled, 171 185 

roe sauce, 266 231 

Made dishes, Obs. on. See 9th 

chapter of Rudiments of Cookery 105 

economical ditto-, 483 300 

Magazine of Taste 292 

Maigre forcemeat, 383 266 

plimi pudding, 554 342 

Mandeville, Dr., quoted. Preface... viii. 
Manners, the importance of good. . 42 

Marjoram, essence of, 417 277 

Marrow bones, 544 336 

Meat, soup from any, boiled 69 

Meh oe, Mrs,, her Econom. Cookery, 

quoted, note to 83 147 

Melted butter 228 

Minced collops 306 

Mince pies (Ap.38.) 371 

meat (Ap.39.) 372 

Mint sauce, 303 242 

vinegar, 398 270 

Mock turtle soup, 247 219 

ditto, do. by E, Lister, 345. ... 218 



INDEX. 



427 



Page 

Mille feuilles ( Ap. 44.) 372 

Moor game, T2 144 

Morels, Obs. on 8U 

Mulled wine, aroiiuUic, essence for, 

412 275 

Mustard, to make, 370 259 

to make in a minute, 3G9. . ib. 

ditto, to keep, 427 278 

seed oil 404 

Manners, barbarous, of the sixteenth 

century 29 

-" good eflVcts of 2ood 42 

bad eftecls ot bad 43 

Measures, glass ones 31 

Meat, how long it must hang to be 

tender 57 

if frozen ib- 

killing it by electricity makes it 

tender immediately 58 

Marketing .61 

best rule for ib. 

ditto 56 

Marketing Tables, for meat 3.55 

poultry 357 

veKelables- . . 359 

.Aleat skreen t ' 

Meat cakes, 504* 316 

Mutton, to boil a leg, 1 108 

neck, 2... 109 

Mutton, 23 124 

roast, a les, 24 125 

ditto, saddle, 26 ib. 

shoulder, 27 ib. 

loin, 28 ib. 

neck, 29 126 

breast, 30 ib. 

haunch, 31 ib. 

ditto, venison fashion, 32 ... . ib. 

or veal pie (Ap. 10.) 362 

chops, 92 150 

ditto, stewed, 490 307 

broth, ]94. 564 196. 350 

mock, 195 197 

to hash, 484 303 

haricot, 489 306 

mullaga-tawny soup, 249 — 222 

Mushroom sauce, 305 242 

ditto, brown, 306 243 

extempore, 307 ib. 

catchup, 439 283 

quintessence of, 440 285 

Marrow bones, 544 336 

vegetable 348 

Muffins (Ap. 102.) 391 

Nutmeg, tincture of, 413* 276 

grater, the best 65 

Omelettes, 543* 333 

Onion, Obs. on, note 92 

pickled (A p. 121) 403 

stewed, 137 166 

young, sauce, 296 • 240 

• ■ sauce'i 297 ib. 



Page 

Onion sauce, white, 298 240 

brown, 299 241 

sage and, 300 ib. 

Orange jelly (Ap. 47.) 373 

singerbread (Ap.75.) 382 

Orgeat (Ap. 81.) 383 

Ox cheek, stewed, 507 317 

portable soup of, 252 224 

Ox tails, stewed, 508 318 

Ox head soup, 239 213 

Ox tail soup, 240 214 

Ox heel jelly, 198 197 

soup, 240* 214 

Oysters, how to feed and preserve 
their lives, and how to tickle them 

to death, 181 189 

certainly not so nutritive 

as supposed, N.B. to 181 190 

native, those that are born 

and bred in the Burnham rivers, 

note to 181 189 

essence of, 441 285 

scalloped, 182 191 

stewed, 182* 192 

fried, 183 ib. 

sauce, 278 234 

preserved in powder, 380. . 2:U 

patties (A p. 26.) 36d 

Osborne, H. Cook to Sir J. Banks xi. 52 
ditto, his receipts for pud- 
dings, &c.,560 345 

Oaimeal, a substitute for bread 
crujubs, note £2 

Pancakes, 558 344 

Paregoric elixir, 570 352 

Pharniacopoeia, Appendix to x. 

Parmentier, quoted. Preface ib. 

Parsley and butter, 261 230 

to preserve, N.B. to 261 231 

fried, 317 245 

crisp, 318 246 

Partridges, 70 143 

soup, 241 215 

Paste for croquants, or cut pastry 

(Ap.8.)....- 361 

for meat or savoury pies (Ap.2.) 360 

for boiled puddings (Ap. 6.)... 361 

for stringing tartlets, &c.(Ap. 7.) ib. 

Pease, to boil, 134 164 

pudding, 555 343 

how to make for half 

the usual expense, note to 555 ib. 

soups, 218. 220 203. 205 

ditto, in live minutes, Obs. to 

555 343 

currv pease soup, note to 218 205 

celery ditto, ditto, 218 204 

plain pease soup, 221 206 

Parsnips, 128 163 

Peristaltic persuaders. 39 

Peptic Precepts, quoted ib. 

Pease powder, 458 289 

Perch, fritd, 159 179 



428 



INDEX. 



Page 

Perch, boiled, 160 179 

stewed, 158 177 

Pheasant, 68 112 

mock ditto, 69 143 

——— criterion of its being ^^assez 

mortijide," Obs. on 68 142 

Pickles, Obs. on 398 

pounded ib. 

: — wholesome substitute for, 

398, 399 

Pigeons, roast, 78 145 

to broil, 98 154 

■ or lark pie (Ap. 13.) 363 

Pig, sucking, 56 133 

Pettitoes or sucking jng's feet, 12. . . 171 

Piquante vinegar, 453 287 

Plaice, fried, 155 175 

Plain pound cake (Ap. 57.) 377 

Plum pudding, 553 341 

Plum pudding sauce, 269 232 

Plum pound cake ( Ap. 58.) 377 

Poached eggs, 546 337 

Poor man's sauce, 310 243 

Poor, soup for, 229 208 

Papin, Dr., his Digester, note 223 

Pork, the season for it, and tlie ac- 
companiments, ^c, 49 130 

to roast a leg, 50 131 

to boil ditto, 11 116 

to roast without the skin on, 51 131 

mock goose, 51 ib. 

to lambify the leg of a porkling, 

see note to 51 ib. 

griskin, 52 132 

sparerib, 53 ib. 

loin, 54 ib. 

chine, 55 133 

to salt, 6 112 

to boil, pickled, 11 116 

liow to score after you have 

boiled it, 11 ib. 

chops, to fry, 93 150 

sausages, 87 148 

Poivrade sauce, 365 259 

Portable soup, 252 223 

Pot top, best fat for frying, Obs. to 83 147 

liquor 54 

to convert into pease soup in 

five minutes, N.B. to 555 343 

Potatoes, 16 ways of dressing, 102. . 155 

to redress cold, 102* 156 

boiled and broiled, 103. .. . ib. 

fried in slices, 104 ib. 

fried whole, 105 157 

rnaslied, 106 ib. 

ditto, with onion, 107 ib. 

escalloped, 108 ib. 

roasted, 109 158 

under meat, 110 ib. 

balls.ni ib. 

savoury, 112 ib. 

snow, 114 ib. 

gipsypie,115 159 

iiewjllG ib. 



Page 
Potatoes, mucilage or starch, 448. . . 286 

flour ib. 

colcannon, 103* 157 

Potted beef, veal, game, &c., 503. . . 314 
^ ' veal, game, &c., why in 

season at tlie same time as mock 

turtle, note under 247 219 

Potted ham, &c., 509 318 

Prawns, 175 187 

Poultry, to render immediately ripe 

for roasting 58 

marketing tables for 357 

Pudding, my, .554 341 

plum, 553.... ib. 

ditto, do. sauce for, 269 232 

suet, 551 340 

Yorkshire, 552 341 

pease, 555 343 

macaroni, 543 332 

baiter 346 

bread and butter, boiled and 

baked, 557 344 

Boston apple 345 

spring fruit ib. 

Nottingliam ib. 

Newmarket 346 

Newcastle or cabinet ib. 

Vermicelli ib. 

bread ib. 

custard 347 

boiled ditto ib. 

college (Ap.l05.) 395 

rice, baked or boiled ib. 

ground ib. 

. save-all (A p. 110.) 396 

Puddings and pies, Obs. on 392 

Pudding catchup, 446 285 

Putr paste (Ap. 1.) 360 

Pulled turkey, chicken, &c., 534 328 

Punch, directly, 478 298 

essence of, to make, 479 ib. 

Purger sou vent les Cuisiniers (de la 

nicessit^) 26 

Pig's pettitoes, 12 117 

Politeness, ancient rules for, note. . . 29 

Porpus 33 

Pie, Jeffery Hudson served up in one 34 
Provisions, how to procure tlie best, 

61. 357 

Pepper, Obs. on 93 

double headed boxes 65 

dueen's drops (A p. 62.) 378 

duin's sauce, 425 278 

ditto, Obs. on Ann Chovy's 

marriage, in note to 433 281 

Rabbit, roast, 67 142 

boiled, 17 121 

broiled,97 154 

soup,241 215 

pie(Ap.l7.) 365 

aWelch,539 330 

RagoOt beef, see Obs. to 493 30a 



IND^X. 



429 



P?5e 

RagoAt sauce, 329 24'J 

sa vou ry powder, 457 288 

quintessence of ditto, 460. . . 290 

— of poultry, to dress, 530* 327 

breast of veal, 517 319 

raised pies (Ap. 5.) 3fil 

French pies (Ap. 18.) 305 

ham pie (A p. 19.) ib. 

pork pie (Ap. 21.) 366 

Iamb pie (A p. 23.) ib. 

Raspberry vinegar, 390 266 

wine or brandy, 469 295 

jam(Ap.92.) 387 

Red cabbage, pickled (Ap. 120.) .... 403 
Rliubarb, various ways of dressing 347 

Rice blancmange (A p. 109.) 396 

pudding (Ap. 106.) 395 

ground pudding ( Ap. 107.) . ibs 

sauce, 321* 246 

snowballs (Ap. 108.) 396 

Ripe fruit tarts (Ap. 30.) 369 

Roasting, See the 2d chapter of 

Rudiments of Cookery 74 

Robert sauce for pork and geese, 

342 ."'..... 252 

Roe boat ditto, see Obs. to 342 ib. 

Rouge, see note to 433 281 

Roux, see Obs. to 257 229 

Rump steak, broiled, 94 151 

stewed, 500 311 

do. with onion gravy, 

501 312 

pie(Ap.l5.) 364 

Romans ate five meals a daj' 34 

their favourite dislies 35 

liquamen and garum ib. 

Sack posset. Sir F. Shepherd's, 467* 295 

Sage and onion sauce, 300 241 

Sally Lunn tea cakes (Ap. lOl.J 390 

Salt, to prepare for table, 37HJr... . 260 

Salt nsh, 150 Vv**-- ^~'^ 

Salting meat, 6 .7^ .... Ill 

to make it red, 6 ib. 

. to make it savoury, 6 112 

to pickle meat ib. 

Sandwiches, 504 316 

Save-all pudding ( Ap. 110.) 396 

Scotch hasgis, 488* 305 

collops, 517 321 

ditto, minced 306 

gravy, see Obs. to 326 248 

brose,205* 201 

barley broth, 204 199 

beef, note 123 

soups, 205 200 

winter hotch potch, 205. ... ib. 

leek soup, or cocky leeky, 

205 201 

lamb stew, 205 ib. 

Salads,' Evelvn's directions about, 

138 and 372 166.260 

Dutch, French, Italian, &e., 

Obs. to 372 261 



I Pago 

Salad sauce, 372 and 453 260. 287 

Salmon, pickled, 161 180 

boiled, 162 ib. 

broiled, 163 181 

Sauce, before you make, read the 
8th chapter of the Rudiments of 

Cookery 100 

anchovy, 270 232 

apple, 304 242 

basil vinegar or wine, 397. . 269 

balls for mock turtle, 380 265 

bechamel, 364 257 

bottled oyster, 278 234 

beef gravy, for poultry, 

329 249 

bonne boucbe for a goose, 

341..., 251 

bread,321 246 

browning, 322 ib. 

butter, melted, 256 228 

burnt, ditto, 260 230 

clarified, ditto, 259 ib. 

oiled, ditto, 260* ib. 

to recover, N.B. to 256 229 

catchup of mushrooms, 439 S283 

of walnuts, 438 282 

of cockles, &c., 442... 285 

for puddings, 446 ib. 

camp vinegar, 403 271 

caper,274 233 

celery, 289 238 

ditto, brown, 290 ib. 

chervil, 264 231 

Chili vinegar, 405 273 

crisp parsley, 318 245 

cucumber, 135 165 

currv,348 254 

e2fg,267 232 

essence of turtle, 343* 252 

of ham, 351 254 

of mushrooms, 440. . 285 

of ovsters, 441 ib. 

of Cayenne, 405 273 

of anchovy, 433 280 

of lemon peel, 407. . . 274 

quintessence of ditto, 408. . ib. 

essence of celery, 

409 275 

of ginger, 411 ib. 

of allspice, 412 ib. 

of clove, i... „«- 

of mace, r^^ ^^ 

of cinnamon, 416.. . . ib. 

of soup herbs, 420.. . 277 

of soup herb and sa- 
voury spice, 422 ib. 

of eschalot, 402 271 

of punch, 479 298 

eschalot, 294 239 

ditto, vinetiar, 401 271 

feimel and butter for macke- 
rel, &c., 265 2.39 

fish, 425 278 

forcemeat, to make, 373 262 



430 



INDEX. 



Page 

Sauce, forcemeat balls for mock tur- 
tle, 380 265 

eggballs,381 266 

curry ditto, 382 ib. 

fish forcemeat, 383 ib. 

zest ditto, 386 ib. 

for veal, 375 264 

to mix orange or lemon peel, 

387 266 

gravy for poultry, ragouts, 

&c., 329 249 

■ ditto for game, 337 251 

ditto for wild duck, 338 ib. 

ditto of onion, 299 241 

dittoof garlic, 311 244 

ditto for roasted meat, 328.. . 248 

ditto for boiled ditto, 327. .. . 249 

wow wow, for boiled beef, 

328 ib. 

wine, see venison, 344. 253 

vinegar for venison, 345 ib. 

mutton ib. 

for grills, 355 254 

for chops and steaks, 356. •• . 255 

for cold meat or poultry, 359 ib. 

for hashes of mutton, &c., 

360 256 

for ditto of vea!, 361 2.57 

relish for chops, 423 278 

gooseberry, 263 231 

garlic, 272 233 

ditto gravy, 31 1 244 

ditto vinegar, 400 270 

M.Kellv's, for calf's head or 

cow heel, 3li* 244 

ditto, ditto, piqiiante, 311*. . ib. 

lemon, syrup of, 391 267 

lemonade in a minute, 477.. .297 

lemon, 273 233 

ditto, and liver, or parsley 

and liver sauce, 287 237 

liver, for fish, 288 238 

lobster, 284 236 

for lobster, 285 237 

mackerel roe, 266 23 1 

ereen mint, 303 242 

vinegar, 398 270 

mushroom, 305 242 

ditto, brown, 306 243 

ditto, in five minutes, 307. . . ib. 

mustard, to make, 370 259 

ditto, in a minute, o69 ib. 

ditto, to keep, 427 278 

oyster,278 234 

bottled, ditto, 280 Jo. 

onion, 297 240 

• ditto, white, for rabbits, &c. 

298 ib. 

. young onion, 296 ib. 

fried, or brown onion, 299. . 241 

sage and onion, 300 ib. 

ox heel jelly, 198 197 

parsley and butter, 281 230 

ditto, fried, 317 244 



Sauce, ditto, crisp, 318 245 

pease powder, 458. SJ89 

pickles, 462 292 

piquanle vinegar, 453 287 

plum pudding, 269 232 

poivrade,365 259 

poor man's, 310 243 

potato mucilage, 448 28G 

ragoQt sauce, 329 249 

ragoftt powder, 457 283 

quintessence of ragoOt pow- 
der, 460 290 

rice, 321* 246 

salad mixture, 372 260 

salad, 453 287 

superlative, 429 278 

box, 462 59. 292 

Savoy biscuits (Ap.69.) 380 

Savoys, 120 160 

Savoury salt beef, 496 310 

Savoury pies, pasties, (fee. (Ap. 12.). 363 
Soup herb powder, or vegetable re- 
lish, 459 = . 289 

Shrimps, potted, 175 187 

Shrim p sauce, 283 235 

Shrub, 479 298 

Small puffs of preserved fruit, (Ap. 

36.) 370 

Snipes, 77 144 

Soda water, Obs. on, note 38 

Sorrel sauce, 291 238 

Sponge biscuits, (Ap. 66.) '379 

Sprouts, 121 160 

S^iarerib of bacon, to roast, 53 132 

Spices, Obs. on, 429 279 

Soup herb and savoury powder, 460 290 

spirit, 420, 421, 422 277 

Spinnage, 122 160 

Stock, first, note to 185 193 

second, note to 185 194 

Stufl^ng,373 262 

forhare,379 265 

for goose, 378 ib 

for turkev, 377 ib 

forveal,374 264 

Suet pudding, 551 340 

Syrup, clarified, 475 297 

of lemon pfiel, 393 268 

of lemon, 391 267 

of orange, 392 268 

Stomach, an Englishman's cooking 
kettle. Dr. Hunter's Obs. on ; Wa- 

terhouse's ditto, note 15 

■ — the machinery of life 19 

Dr. Cheyne's Obs. on; Aber- 

nethy's ditto 2© 

Stomachic tincture, 569 359 

Spectacles for Gourmands, note 23 

Spring fruit,various ways of dressing 347 

Sprats, to broil, 170* 185 

to pickle, 171 185 

to stew, 170** ib. 

to fry, 173 187 

Servants, Rev. Wm. Walkins' excel- 



INDEX. 



431 



Page 

lent institution for the encourage- 
ment of. 25 

Servants, friendly advice to 46 

maxims for 49 

Swan 33 

Seals 34 

Sltate, 148 172 

Soups, under the name of the article 
they are made of. 

Soup, Obs. on 89 

\ cheap 91 

^ and bouilli, 238 212 

Steaks, 85, 94 148. 151 

Slew pan 89 

Suet, to clarify for frying, &c. 84. . . 147 

puddings 393 

Sausages, to frv, 87 148 

Sweetbread, to "fry, 88 149 

do. plain, 89 ib. 

Sweet, or short and crisp tart paste 

(Ap. 4.) 360 

Sea kale, 124 162 

Soles, to boil, 144 169 

to fry, 145 ib. 

to stew, 146, 158, 164 

171. 177. 181 

filleted, 147 171 

Skate, fried, 154 175 

Sturgeon, 152 174 

Tart paste (Ap. 3.) 360 

Tartlets (Ap.34.) 370 

Taste, the Committee of, Preface. . . xi. 

the Magazine of, 462 63. 292 

varieties of 51 

Tastes, six simple, note 53 

Tamis, note to, 189 195 

Tankard, cool, 464 294 

Tarragon sauce, 264 232 

vinegar, 396 268 

Tea, to make,^550 339 

Tender, to make meat 58 

Tewahdiddle, 467 294 

Thickening, or roMx, 257 229 

ditto 98 

Toast and water, 463 293 

and cheese, .539 330 

Toasted cheese, 540 331 

Tomato sauce, 292 • ... 239 

mock ditto, 293 ib. 

Tongue to boil, 15 119 

what the roots are good for, 

Obs. to 15 ib. 

Toothache, cure for, 5«57 351 

Tripe, 18 121 

Trifle (Ap. 49.) 374 

Truffles, Obs. on 95 

Turbot, to boil, 140 167 

Turkey, to boil, 16 119 

to fatten and whiten, 16 in. 

roast, 57 134 

hash, &c. .533 328 

pulled, 5.34 ib. 

Turnips, 130 163 

to mash, 131 164 



Pa6« 

Turnip-tops, 132 164 

soup.213 202 

Turtle, to dress, 250 223 

mock ditto, 247, &c 219 

Birch s ditto, excellent note to 

247 ib. 

^ mock mock, ditto," 245 218 

English, 248 2'22 

sauce, 343 252 

essence, 343* ib. 

hints to turtle eaters, Obs. to 

493 309 

2500 pounds of, eaten at one 

dinner, note to 250 223 

Twelfth cake ( Ap. 55.) 376 

Vauxhall nectar, to imitate, 480. . . . 299 

Veal, to boil, 4 109 

to roast, 33 127 

fillet, 34 , ib. 

loin, 35 128 

shoulder, 36 ib. 

neck, best end, 37 ib. 

breast, 38 ib. 

sweetbread, 39 ib. 

cutlet, 90 149 

ditto, sauce for, 90 ib. 

ditto, full dressed, 521 322 

broth, 191 195 

gravy, 192 ib. 

knuckle soup, 193 196 

stuffit)g, Roger Fowler's, 374. . 264 

forcemeat, 375 ib. 

breast, stowed, 515 319 

minced, 511* 318 

hashed, .511 ib. 

sauce for, 361 257 

excellent hot ragoOt of cold 

veal, 512 319 

potted, 503 314 

breast ragoflt, 517 319 

ditto, with pease, note to 517. . 320 

olives, 518 321 

cutlets, broiled, 521 322 

knuckle, toragoOt, 522 323 

with rice, 523 ib. 

Gay's receipt, ditto, 524 ib. 

and ham patties (Ap.28.) 368 

pie(Ap.20.) 366 

Vegetables, Obs. on. See the 5th 
chapter of the Rudiments of 

Cookery ^ 83 

Vegetable essences, to extract, 417.* 277 

marrow 348 

marketing tables for 359 

Venison, to roast a haunch, 63 139 

neck or shoulder, 64 140 

to hash, 528 325 

to vcMsonify mutton, 32. . . 126 

the Devil's 33 

w ine sauce for. 344 253 

sharp ditto for, 345 ib. 

sweet dlito, 346 ib 

mutton gravy,. *>47 ib 



432 



INDEX. 



Venison, pasty (Ap. 9.) 

Vinegar sauce for venison, 345. . .. 

burnet or cucumber, 399. 

basil. 397 

cress, 397* 

garlic, 400 

horseradish, 399* 

eschalot, 401 

camp, 403 

piquante, 453 

for salads, 395 

tarragon, 396. 



■ raspberry, 390 

. sweet and savoury herbs, 

spices, &c., Obs. to 396 

green mint, 398 

pyroligneous, Obs. on 397* 

Vol au vent ( Ap. 25.) 



Page 
362 
253 
270 
269 

ib. 
270 

ib. 
271 

ib. 
287 
268 

ib. 
267 

269 
270 
269 
367 



Walnuts, to pickle ( Ap. 116.) 401 

Walnut catchup, 438 282 

Water gruel, immediately, 572 352 

various relishes for, 572 ib. 

Water souchy, 156 175 



Tago 
Watkins, the Rev. G., his hints to 

heads of families S5 

Welsh rabbit, 539 330 

Wheatears, 81 146 

White sauce, 364, 365 258 

wine whey, 566 351 

Whitings, fried, 153 174 

Whip syllabub (A p. 50.) 375 

Widgeons and teal, 75 144 

Wild ducks, 74 ib. 

Wine sauce for venison, &c., 344. . . 253 

eschalot, 402 271 

Woodcock, 76 144 

has the same honours 

paid to it as the Grand Lama, 

note to 76 ib. 

Wow wow sauce for boiled beef, 

328 249 

Weights and measures for cookery, 

tabieof. 64 

Weight, the diminution that takes 

place in cooking 70 

Yorkshire pudding, 552 341 



THE END 



\ 
















'TTi' A 



















*>t^^ 





































¥ ■ O. 



'O, i 



i BOOK8INCMNC i \_ I t < 



BOOK8INCMNG i V ^ 

Grantvili* Pa g Ov^'^ 

SeptOct 1988 i /\V VV 



^O. 



